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TROUBLESHOOTING
SYMPTOM CAUSE REMEDY
Your pump delivers little or no
water
1. Water level in a low producing well
drops too low while pump is operating,
causing it to air lock. (Resulting in loss
of prime and possibly serious damage to
the pump)
2. Intake screen is partially plugged.
3. Check valve(s) may be stuck.
4. Voltage is too low; the motor runs slowly,
causing low discharge pressure (head)
and high operating current draw.
1. Lower the pump further into the well, but make sure it is at least
five feet from the bottom of the well. Install a control valve in the
discharge pipe between the pump and pressure tank.
Use the control valve to restrict the flow until the
discharge rate does not exceed well recovery rate.
WARNING! To prevent the possibility of dangerously high
pressure, install a relief valve in the discharge pipe between
pump and flow restriction valve. Relief valve must be capable of
passing full pump flow at 75 psi.
2. Lime or other matter in the water may build up on screen. Pull pump
and clean screen.
3. Make sure that the built-in check valve in the pump and any check
valves in the discharge line are free to open properly.
4. Have a certified electrician verify voltage at the electrical disconnect
box (2-wire) or control center (3-wire) while the pump is operating.
If the voltage is low, the power company may need to raise it or
installation may require larger wire. Discuss this with the power
company or a licensed electrician.
Air or milky water discharges
from your faucets
1. Well water may be gaseous. 1. If your well is naturally gaseous and your system has a standard
tank, remove the bleeder orifices and plug the tees. If the condition
is serious, check with certified well professionals.
Pump starts too frequently 1. Leak in the pressure tank or plumbing.
2. Pressure switch is defective or out
of adjustment.
3. Check valve is leaking.
4. Tank is waterlogged.
5. Drop pipe leaking.
6. Pressure switch is too far from the tank.
1. Check all connections with soap suds for air leaks. Fix any leaks
you find. Check the plumbing for water leaks. Fix any leaks you find.
2. If necessary, replace switch.
3. Inspect valves and replace if necessary.
4. Captive Air
®
Tanks: Check the tank for leaks; correct if possible.
Precharge tanks to 18 psi with a 20-40 psi switch, 28 psi for a 30-50
psi switch, 38 psi for a 40-60 psi switch, etc. Standard tanks: Check
the tank for leaks; correct if possible. Check bleeder orifices and
clean bleeders; replace if necessary.
5. Raise one length of pipe at a time until the leak is found. When water
stands in the pipe there is no leak below this point.
6. Move the pressure switch to within one foot of the tank
Fuses blow or overload
protector trips when the
motor starts
1. Fuses or wires are too small.
2. Low or high voltage.
3. Cable splices or motor windings
grounded, shortened, or open.
4. 3-wire only; cable leads may be
improperly connected in pump
control box, pressure switch or fused
disconnect switch.
5. 3-wire only; there may be a broken wire in
the pump control box.
6. 3-wire only; starting or running capacitor
in control box may be defective or vented
(blown out).
1. Replace with correct wire sizes (see Table 1 on Page 3).
2. While motor is running, voltage should not exceed plus 5% or minus
5% or rated voltage shown on motor nameplate. Call the electric
power company to adjust line voltage if not within these limits.
3. Consult certified electrician or service technician.
4. Check wiring diagram on pump control box (also see Figure 9 on
Page 10) and color coding of drop cable.
5. Employ certified electrician; examine all connections and wiring in
control panel. If necessary, repair them.
6. Inspect capacitors. Employ a certified electrician to check capacitors
and replace them if necessary.
WARNING! Hazardous voltage can shock, burn, or cause
death. Capacitors may still carry voltage charges even after
being disconnected from wiring. Have them checked by a
certified electrician.
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