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PROPER FEEDING
OPERATION
The right feed is neither too fast nor too slow. It isthe rate at
which the bit is being advanced firmly and surelyto produce
a continuous spiral of uniform chips-- without hogging into
the wood tomake large individualchipsor, onthe otherhand,
to create only sawdust. If you are making a small diameter,
shallow groove in soft, dry wood, the proper feed may be
about as fast as you can travel your router along your guide
line. On the other hand, ifthe bitisa large one,the cut isdeep
orthe wood is hardto cut, the properfeed may bea very slow
one.Then, again, across-grain cutmay requireaslower pace
than an identical with grain cut in the same workpiece.
There is no fixed rule. You _ill learn by expedence from
practice and use. The best rate of feed is determined by
listening to the sound ofthe router motor and by feeling the
progress of each cut. If at all possible, always test a cuton a
scrap piece ofthe workpiece wood, beforehand.
FORCE FEEDING
Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only
when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed and is
taking very small bites toproduce tiny,cleanly severed chips.
If your router isforced to move forward too fast, the RPM of
the bit becomes slower than normal in relation to itsforward
movement. As a result, the bit must take bigger bites as it
revolves. "Bigger bites" mean bigger chips, and a rougher
finish. Bigger chips also require more power, which could
result in the router motor becoming overloaded.
Under extreme force-feeding conditionsthe relative RPM of
the bit can become so slow -- and the bites ithas to take so
large -- that chips will be partially knocked off (rather than
fully cut off), with resulting splintering and gouging of the
workpiece. See Figure 15.
YourCraftsmanrouterisanextremelyhigh.speedtool (22,000
RPM no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if
allowed torunfreely without theoverload ofa forced (too fast)
feed. Three things that cause "force feeding" are bit size,
depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The larger the
bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowlythe router shouldbe
moved forward; If the wood is very hard, knotty, gummy or
damp, the operation must be slowed still more.
You can always detect "force feeding" by the sound of the
motor. Itshigh-pitched whine willsound lowerand stronger as
Lt loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the tool will be
noticeably increased.
TOO FAST
TOO SLOW Fig. 15
TOO SLOW FEEDING
Itis also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router forward
too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too slowly, a
revolving bit does not dig intonew wood fast enough to take
a bite;instead, itsimplyscrapes away sawdust-like particles.
Scraping produces heat, which can glaze, burn, or mar the
cut-- in extreme cases, can even overheat the bit so as to
destroy itshardness.
In addition, it ismore difficult to control a router when the bit
isscraping instead of cutting.With practically no load on the
motor the bit will be revolving at close to top RPM, and will
have a much greater than normal tendency to bounce offthe
sides of the cut (especially, if the wood has a pronounced
grain with hard and softareas). As a result, the cut produced
may have rippled, instead of straight sides. See Figure 15.
"Too-slow feeding" can also cause your router to take off in a
wrong direction from the intended line ofcut. Always grasp
and hold your router firmly with both hands when routing.
You can detect "too-slow feeding" by the runaway too-highly
pitched sound ofthe motor;or byfeeling the "wiggle" ofthe bit
in the cut.
PaQe14
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