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SMOOTHING A CYLINDER
The final _/8"can be removed in two ways. Either use the 1"
skew, working from the center toward both ends and taking
lighter and lighter cuts until finished, or use a block plane as
illustrated in Figure 29.
CUTTING A SHOULDER
A shoulder can be the side of a square portion left in the
workpiece, the side of a turned section, or the end of the
workpiece. Most shoulders are perpendicular to the work axis,
but a shoulder can be at any angle.
First, mark position of the shoulder with a pencil held to
the revolving workpiece.
• Second, make a sizing cut with the parting tool, placing
this cut about Y_" outside the shoulder position and cutting
to within about W' of the depth desired for the area outside
of the shoulder.
If shoulder is shallow, the toe of the skew can be used to
make the sizing cut. Do not go in deeper than W' with the
skew unless wider and wider vees are cut to provide clear-
ance for this tool.
• Use the gouge to remove any waste stock outside of shoul-
der. Smooth this section, up to within W' of shoulder, in the
usual manner. Finishing of the shoulder, unless it is more
than 1" high, is best done with the _/2"skew.
• The toe of the skew is used to remove the shavings from
the side of the shoulder - down to finished size.
Hold skew so the bottom edge of bevel next to the shoul-
der will be very nearly parallel to side of shoulder - but
with cutting edge turned away at the top so that only the
extreme toe will do the cutting. If cutting edge is fiat
against shoulder, the chisel will run.
• Start with handle low, and raise handle to advance toe into
the work.
• Cut down to finished diameter of outside area. Then, clean
out the corner by advancing heel of the skew into it along
the surface of the outside area.
• Tilt the cutting edge, with handle raised up so that only the
extreme heel does this cutting.
If shoulder is at end of work, the process is called squaring
the end. In this case, reduce outer portion to a diameter
about Y4" larger than tool center diameter.Then, later, saw
off the waste stock.
Wrong Right
Figure 43
13
CUTTING VEES
Vee grooves can be cut with either the toe or heel of the skew.
When the toe is used, the cutting action is exactly the
same as when trimming a shoulder except that the skew is
tilted to cut at the required bevel. Light cuts should be
taken on first one side and then the other, gradually
enlarging the vee to the required depth and width.
When the heel is used, the skew is rotated down into the
work, using the rest as a pivot. Otherwise, cutting position
and sequence of cuts are the same. As when using the
toe, it is important that cutting be done only by extreme
end of cutting edge.
If deep vees are planned, it is quicker to start them by
making a sizing cut at the center of each vee.
Vees can also be scraped with the spear point chisel or a
three-sided file.
Figure 44
CUTTING BEADS
This operation requires considerable practice.
First, make a pencil line to locate the tops (highest points)
of two or more adjoining beads.
Then, make a vee groove at the exact center between two
lines and down to the desired depth of the separation
between the beads. Be careful not to make the groove too
wide or you will remove portions of the desired beads. The
sides of the two adjoining beads are now cut with the heel of
the skew. Use a _/2"skew, unless beads are very large.
Place skew at right angles with the work axis, flat against the
surface, and well up near the top. The extreme heel should
be just inside the pencil line that marks the top of the bead.
Now, draw skew straight back while raising handle slowly -
until edge of the heel at the pencil line starts to cut.
As edge begins to cut, roll skew in the direction of the vee
so that the exact portion of the edge which started cutting
will travel in a 90 ° arc down to bottom of the vee.
Upon reaching bottom of the vee, the skew should be on edge.
Reverse the movements to cut side of the adjacent bead.
__Swing Tool
Figure 45 - Cutting Beads
It is important that only the extreme heel should do the cut-
ting. This means that the bottom edge of the bevel next to the
vee must at all times be tangent to the arc of the bead being
formed.
Easier beads can be shaped with the spear point chisel.
Use pencil marks and sizing cuts as before.
Push the chisel straight into each cut and rotate horizontal-
ly to round off the adjacent edges. It must be moved slight-
ly in the direction of rotation at the same time to keep the
point from digging into the adjacent bead (See Figure 46,
page 14).
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