User Manual Honda 2017 CRF250R Off-road Competition

Honda 2017 CRF250R Off-road Competition - Use Manual - Use Guide PDF.
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• Owner's manual - (English)

Table of contents

• Instruments & Controls
• Basic Operating Instructions
• Servicing Your Honda
• Adjustments for Competition
• Troubleshooting

User Manual for Motorbike

Instruments & Controls

Operation Component Locations

MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp)

The MIL (1) on your CRF keeps you informed, alerts you to possible problems, and makes your riding safer and more enjoyable. Refer to the MIL frequently.

(1) MIL

The MIL flashes when there is any abnormality in the PGM-FI system. It should also light for a few seconds and then go off when the engine is started.

If the MIL comes on at any other time, reduce speed and refer to an official Honda Service Manual available for purchase from your dealer (page 174).

If the MIL does not come on when it should, have your dealer check it for problems.

MIL Blink Pattern

The MIL will blink the appropriate DTC number if the ECM detects an active problem while the engine is running at less than 5,500 rpm. The MIL will stay on when engine speed is over 5,500 rpm.

The MIL has two types of blinks: a long blink and short blink. The long blinking lasts for 1.2 seconds, the short blinking lasts for 0.4 seconds. One long blink is the equivalent of ten short blinks. For example, when one long blink is followed by two short blinks, the MIL is 12 (one long blink = 10 blinks, plus two short blinks).

When the ECM stores more than one DTC, the MIL will indicate them by blinking in the order from the lowest number to highest number.

Current DTC/Freeze DTC

The DTC is indicated in two ways according to the failure status.

– In the case that the ECM detects an active problem, the MIL will come on and will start to blink the DTC when the engine is started.

– In the case that the ECM does not detect an active problem but has recorded a previous problem in its memory, the MIL will not come on. If it is necessary to retrieve any past problems stored in the memory, refer to an official Honda Service Manual.

Circuit Inspection

Always clean around the ECM and keep debris away from the connectors before disconnecting them.

A faulty PGM-FI system is often related to poorly connected or corroded connections. Check the following connections.

(1) MAP sensor connector

(2) ECT sensor connector

(3) TP sensor connector

(4) IAT sensor connector

(5) Injector connector

(6) No.1/No.2 CKP sensor connector

(7) ECM connector

Remember, circuit inspection is not a “cure-all” for other problems in your engine’s PGM-FI system.

DTC Index

Refer to MIL Blink Pattern on page 7.

Should be serviced by your dealer, unless the owner has proper tools and is technically qualified.

The series of 12, 19, and 69 MIL blinks cannot be checked because the engine cannot be started and you need the proper tools to check these codes. Take unit to a dealer.

If the engine does not start, check all connector connections and/or refer to an official Honda Service Manual (page 174) for troubleshooting of the PGM-FI symptom.

Mode Indicator

The mode indicator (1) is located in the engine mode select button (2). It should light for a few seconds and then go off when the engine is started.

(1) mode indicator

(2) engine mode select button

The mode indicator indicates a selected mode when you operate the engine mode select button (page 134).

If the mode indicator stays on or does not come on when it should, have your dealer check it for problems.

Basic Operating Instructions

Safe Riding Precautions

Before riding your CRF for the first time, please review the Important Safety Precautions beginning on page 2 and the previous section, titled Before Riding.

For your safety, avoid starting or operating the engine in an enclosed area such as a garage. Your CRF’s exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas which can collect rapidly in an enclosed area and cause illness or death.

WARNING

Running the engine of your vehicle while in an enclosed or even partially enclosed area can cause a rapid build-up of toxic carbon monoxide gas.

Breathing this colorless, odorless gas can quickly cause unconsciousness and lead to death.

Only run your vehicle's engine when it is located in a well ventilated area outdoors.

Starting & Stopping the Engine

Always follow the proper starting procedure described below.

Your CRF can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by pulling in the clutch lever before operating the kickstarter.

Fast Idle Knob

The fast idle knob has two functions:

• When pulled out, the fast idle knob assists in first-time start-up for cold weather starting.

• When pushed in, it acts like an idle adjustment screw. Refer to Idle Speed Adjustment on page 61.

Preparation

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral.

Starting Procedure

Always follow the proper starting procedure described as follows.

Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (pages 50, 53, 54).

Cold Engine Starting

1. Shift the transmission into neutral.

2. If the temperature is 95°F (35°C) or below, pull the fast idle knob (1) fully out.

(1) fast idle knob

3. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion.

4. About a minute after the engine starts, push the fast idle knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.

Warm Engine Starting

1. Shift the transmission into neutral.

2. Kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.)

If Difficult to Start After Stalling

1. Shift the transmission into neutral.

2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times to discharge excessive fuel from the engine.

3. Kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.)

Snapping the throttle or fast idling for more than about 5 minutes may cause exhaust pipe and muffler discolorations.

How to Stop the Engine

Normal Engine Stop

1. Shift the transmission into neutral.

2. Lightly open the throttle (1) two or three times, and then close it.

3. Push and hold the engine stop button (2) until the engine stops completely.

Emergency Engine Stop

To stop the engine in an emergency, push and hold the engine stop button.

Break-in Guidelines

Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km).

During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.

This same procedure should be followed each time when:

• piston is replaced

• piston rings are replaced

• cylinder is replaced

• crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced

The front suspension will feel stiff until after break-in (approximately 1 hour), this is normal.

Servicing Your Honda

The Importance of Maintenance

Keeping your CRF well-maintained is absolutely essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to get maximum performance during each moto. Careful pre-ride inspections and good maintenance are especially important because your CRF is designed to be ridden in off-road competition.

Remember, proper maintenance is your responsibility. Be sure to inspect your CRF before each ride and follow the Maintenance Schedule in this section.

WARNING

Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or failing to correct a problem before you ride can cause a crash in which you can be seriously hurt or killed.

Always follow the inspection and maintenance recommendations and schedules in this owner’s manual.

Maintenance Safety

This section includes instructions on how to perform some important maintenance tasks. Some of the most important safety precautions follow. However, we cannot warn you of every conceivable hazard that can arise in performing maintenance. Only you can decide whether or not you should perform a given task.

WARNING

Failure to properly follow maintenance instructions and precautions can cause you to be seriously hurt or killed.

Always follow the procedures and precautions in this owner’s manual.

Important Safety Precautions

• Make sure the engine is off before you begin any maintenance or repairs.

This will help eliminate several potential hazards:

Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine exhaust. Be sure there is adequate ventilation whenever you operate the engine.

Burns from hot motorcycle parts. Let the engine and exhaust system cool before touching.

Injury from moving parts. Do not run the engine unless instructed to do so.

• Read the instructions before you begin, and make sure you have the tools and skills required.

• To help prevent the motorcycle from falling over, park it on a firm, level surface, using an optional workstand or a maintenance stand to provide support.

• To reduce the possibility of a fire or explosion, be careful when working around gasoline. Use only a non-flammable (high flash point) solvent such as kerosene –not gasoline– to clean parts. Keep cigarettes, sparks, and flames away from all fuel-related parts.

Maintenance Schedule

To maintain the safety and reliability of your CRF, regular inspection and service is required as shown in the Maintenance Schedule that follows.

The Maintenance Schedule lists items that can be performed with basic mechanical skills and hand tools. Procedures for these items are provided in this manual.

The Maintenance Schedule also includes items that involve more extensive procedures and may require special training, tools, and equipment. Therefore, we recommend that you have your dealer perform these tasks unless you have advanced mechanical skills and the required tools. Procedures for items in this schedule are provided in an official Honda Service Manual available for purchase from your dealer (page 174).

Service intervals in the maintenance schedule are expressed in terms of races and riding hours. To avoid overlooking required service, we urge you to develop a convenient way to record the number of races and/or hours you ride.

If you do not feel capable of performing a given task or need assistance, remember that your Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is fully equipped to maintain and repair it. If you decide to do your own maintenance, use only Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalents for repair or replacement to ensure the best quality and reliability.

Perform the pre-ride inspection (page 13) at each scheduled maintenance period.

Summary of Maintenance Schedule Notes and Procedures:

Notes:

1. Clean after every moto for dusty riding condition.

2. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.

3. Replace after the first break-in ride.

4. Inspect after the first break-in ride.

5. Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs and plates are replaced.

6. Replace every year.

Maintenance Procedures:

I : inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate or replace if necessary

C: clean

A: adjust

L : lubricate R: replace

Perform the Pre-ride Inspection (page 13) at each scheduled maintenance period.

I: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. A: Adjust. L: Lubricate. R: Replace.

WE RECOMMEND THESE ITEMS BE SERVICED BY REFERRING TO AN OFFICIAL HONDA SERVICE MANUAL.

This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machine subjected to severe use require more frequent servicing.

NOTE:

1.Clean after every moto for dusty riding condition.

2.Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.

3.Replace after the first break-in ride.

4.Inspect after the first break-in ride.

5.Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs and plates are replaced.

6.Replace every year.

General Competition Maintenance

Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using an optional workstand, or equivalent support.

When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten them to the specified torque using a crisscross pattern.

Use Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalents when servicing your CRF.

Clean parts in non-flammable (high flash point) cleaning solvent (such as kerosene) when disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surfaces, O-rings, and seals before reassembling. Grease parts by coating or filling where specified.

After any engine disassembly, always install new gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, piston pin clips, snap rings, etc. when reassembling. After reassembly, check all parts for proper installation and operation.

All Pre-ride Inspection Items

Refer to Pre-ride Inspection on page 13.

Left Fork

Air Pressure Set the left fork air pressure within the specified range (page 136).

Spark Plug

Some non-resistor plugs may cause ignition problems. Refer to the recommendations elsewhere in this manual for specific types so you will be sure to use the proper reach and heat range. Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance Schedule (page 25).

Engine Oil and Filter

Drain and replace engine oil often to ensure the greatest service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft. Also replace engine oil filter often to ensure the greatest service life. Frequent changes will also assure consistent performance of power and response (page 50).

Spark Plug

Cap Install a small plastic tie-wrap around the spark plug cap to reduce any possibility of it loosening or of water penetration.

Transmission Oil

Drain and replace transmission oil often to ensure the greatest service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent changes will also assure consistent performance of both shifting and clutch action (page 53).

Air Cleaner

Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly because the volume of air able to pass through it has a great effect on performance. Both engine performance and long term durability may be affected by an air cleaner that has deteriorated and allows dirt to pass. Inspect the air cleaner closely each time it’s serviced for evidence of small tears or seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and ready to install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty conditions may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing it with a pre-serviced air cleaner between motos. Be careful not to over oil the air cleaner. While it is important to oil the air cleaner thoroughly, over oiling will cause an overall rich running condition, probably more noticeable off idle and in low rpm performance. Follow the servicing instructions in the Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner flange where it contacts the air cleaner housing. Pro Honda White Lithium Grease, or an equivalent, is handy for this because any dirt that penetrates this sealing area will show up clearly (page 56).

Use the Honda Genuine air cleaner or an equivalent air cleaner specified for your model.

Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda air cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may cause premature engine wear or performance problems.

Air Cleaner Housing Sealing

Remove and reseal the air cleaner connecting tube where it connects to the air cleaner housing with Pro Honda Handgrip Cement or an equivalent if there is any doubt to its sealing integrity. Inspect the air cleaner and air intake tract regularly for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.

Steering Head Bearings

Periodically clean, inspect and regrease the steering head bearings — especially if wet, muddy or extremely dusty courses are encountered often.

Use urea based multi-purpose grease designed for high temperature, high pressure performance (example: EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by KYODO YUSHI, Japan).

Fork Oil/Performance

Disassemble, clean and inspect the fork and replace the oil regularly. Contamination due to the tiny metal particles produced from the normal action of the fork, as well as normal oil breakdown, will deteriorate the performance of the suspension. Refer to an official Honda Service Manual (page 174). Use only HP Fork Oil, SS-19 or an equivalent which contains special additives to assure maximum performance of your CRF’s front suspension.

Spokes

Check spoke tension frequently between the first few rides. As the spokes, spoke nuts and rim contact points seat-in, the spokes may need to be retightened. Once past this initial seating-in period, the spokes should hold their tension. Still, be sure your race maintenance program includes checking spoke tension and overall wheel condition on a regular basis (page 115).

Nuts, Bolts, Etc

Application of a thread locking agent to essential fasteners offers added assurance and security. Remove the nuts, clean the threads of both the nuts and bolts, apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent and tighten to the specified torque.

Gaskets

Always use new gaskets when reassembling components.

Cylinder head/Cylinder

Put a little grease on the dowel pins of the cylinder head and cylinder to prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals. The tolerances are quite tight, so it’s important to keep these dowels absolutely clean (pages 77, 79).

Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts

Make sure the engine mounting bolts and nuts are tightened to the proper torque specification. For added peace of mind, remove the nuts, clean the threads, and apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent prior to torquing the nuts.

Fuel Line

Refer to Fuel Line Inspection on page 40. Check the fuel line for deterioration, damage, or leakage. Replace the fuel line every year.

Frame

Because your CRF is a high-performance machine, the frame should not be overlooked as part of your overall competition maintenance program. Periodically inspect the frame closely for possible cracking or other damage. It makes good racing sense.

Electrical Connectors

Clean electrical connectors and wrap them with electrical tape to reduce the possibility of unwanted disconnections, water shorts or corrosion. Additional corrosion protection is offered by using Pro Honda Dielectric Grease on all electrical connections.

Suspension Linkage Lubrication

Disassemble, clean, inspect and lubricate all suspension linkage pivot bearings with molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive) after each 7.5 hours of running time in order to maintain proper suspension performance and minimize component wear.

Swingarm Pivot Lubrication

Clean, inspect and lubricate the swingarm and suspension linkage pivots with molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive) after each 7.5 hours of running time in order to maintain proper suspension performance and minimize component wear. Be sure all of the dust seals are in good condition.

Swingarm

Do not attempt to weld or otherwise repair a damaged swingarm. Welding will weaken the swingarm.

Footpegs

Worn footpeg teeth can be repaired by filing the grooves between the teeth with a triangular shaped file. Be aware that filing them too sharp will reduce boot sole lifespan. Sharpen only the points of the teeth. Filing the grooves deeper will weaken the footpegs. Be sure the pegs are free to pivot freely and that the pivot pin retaining cotter pins are in good condition.

Brake Fluid Replacement

Refer to Brake Pad Wear on page 114.

Brake Caliper Inspection: Be sure both the front and rear calipers are able to move freely on the caliper pin and caliper bracket pins. Check pad thickness periodically and replace the pads when minimum thickness is reached. If the brakes fade when they are hot, inspect the pads for glazing or damage, and replace if necessary.

Handgrips Always use Pro Honda Handgrip Cement or an equivalent when replacing handgrips.

Refer to an official Honda Service Manual (page 174) for installation instructions.

Brake Fluid Replacement: Refer to an official Honda Service Manual (page 174) for brake fluid replacement instructions. Replace the brake fluid in the brake system every 2 years. Replace the fluid more frequently if you subject your brakes to severe use. Heavy braking heats the brake fluid and it may deteriorate sooner than expected. Any type of riding, that requires frequent use of the brakes, such as in tight woods, can shorten the service life of brake fluid.

Bleed Hole

After every race, check the bleed hole below the water pump cover for leakage. Clean away any clogged dirt or sand, if necessary. Check the bleed hole of the water pump for signs of seal leakage. If water leaks through the bleed hole, replace the mechanical seal. If oil leaks through the bleed hole, replace the oil seal. Make sure that there is no continuous coolant leakage from the bleed hole while operating the engine. A small amount of coolant weeping from the bleed hole is normal. See an official Honda Service Manual or consult your dealer for replacing the mechanical seal or oil seal. Both seals should be replaced at the same time.

Handgrips

Always use Pro Honda Handgrip Cement or an equivalent when replacing handgrips. Refer to an official Honda Service Manual (page 174) for installation instructions.

Throttle Grip

Right throttle grip: Align the index mark on the throttle grip with the index mark of the throttle pipe.

Left handlebar grip: Align the index mark on the left handlebar grip with the paint mark on the handlebar.

For added security, you may choose to bind the handgrips to the handlebar and throttle pipe with safety wires to prevent the possibility of them loosening. Position the twisted wire ends away from your palms and be sure to bend the wire ends well into the handgrip rubber so they will not snag your glove.

Throttle Control

Remove the throttle control every few rides, clean the inside of the throttle pipe and handlebar thoroughly. Inspect the cable carefully for kinks or other damage that may restrict throttle control in anyway. Move the handlebar from lock to lock to be sure there is no cable interference. Make certain the throttle operation is perfect after servicing and inspecting.

Before & After Competition Maintenance

Between Motos & Practice Maintenance

After practice or between motos you have a chance to make additional checks and adjustments.

• Clean accumulated dirt from under the fenders and off the wheels, suspension components, handgrips, controls, and footpegs. A stiff, nylon parts cleaning brush works well.

• Check tire air pressure.

• Check spoke tension, and make sure the rim locks are secure.

• Check to make sure the sprocket bolts and nuts are secure.

• Clean the sides of the drive chain with a stiff, nylon parts-cleaning brush. Lubricate and adjust the chain as necessary.

Do not perform maintenance while engine is running. Injury to your fingers or hands may result.

• After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster index marks (1) are in the same position on each side. This will ensure that the rear wheel is in proper alignment and allow maximum performance from the rear disc brake. Maintaining proper wheel alignment will also extend brake pad wear.

• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and use the pressure release screw (2) on the right fork to release the built-up pressure (in excess of normal atmospheric pressure: 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm2 )) in the right fork. This pressure is caused by normal fork action while riding. (If you are riding at altitude, remember that fork pressure of 0 at sea level will increase as elevation increases.)

Right fork:

• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and adjust the left fork air pressures. For details on left fork air pressures adjustment, refer to page 136.

Left fork:

When adjusting the left fork air pressure, adjust the inner chamber air pressure first, then outer chamber air pressure, and finally balance chamber air pressure.

When releasing the balance chamber air pressure, a small amount of fork oil spraying from the balance chamber air valve is normal. This will not affect the fork performance.

• Air fork pump

• Air fork pump adapter

Left Fork Recommended Setting

When adjusting the left fork air pressures to the recommended air pressures adjust the rebound and compression damping adjuster to the standard settings.

Left Fork Air Pressure

Do not adjust the left fork air pressure to less than the minimum calculated value or more than the maximum calculated value.

After Competition Maintenance

It is important to the long term performance of your CRF to practice a consistent maintenance program. Right after the event is a good time to begin your next maintenance cycle.

After Race Lubrication

Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the drive sprocket and any steel portions of the chassis or engine where the paint has worn away.

This will prevent rusting of the exposed metal. Apply rust-inhibiting oil more heavily if the event was particularly wet or muddy. Take care to avoid spraying any oil near the brake pads or the brake discs.

Take care to prevent catching your fingers between the chain and sprocket.

Remove the drive chain, clean and lubricate it (pages 119, 120). Be sure the chain is wiped clean and is dry before lubricating the chain.

Routine Cleaning

If your CRF is only slightly dirty, it is best to clean it by hand with the aid of a stiff bristled nylon brush and some clean rags.

Take care to prevent catching your fingers between the chain and sprocket.

A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes are available from variety, drug, food, and hardware stores. Some of these brushes are extremely useful in removing dirt from the many tight contours of the metal pieces of your CRF. Avoid using stiff, abrasive brushes on the plastic or rubber parts.

If your CRF was exposed to sea air or salt water, rinse it as soon as possible after the event, dry it, and apply a spray lubricant to all metal parts.

If you decide to wash your CRF or use cleaners, refer to Appearance Care (page 130).

Seat

Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.

Removal

1. Remove the seat mounting bolts (1).

2. Remove the seat (2) by sliding it backward.

Installation

1. Install the seat while aligning the seat front slit (1) with the front seat bracket (2) and seat prong (3) with the seat stopper plate (4).

2. Install and tighten the seat mounting bolts (5) to the specified torque: 19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)

Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.

Removal

1. Remove the seat (page 34).

2. Remove the shroud A bolts and collars (1).

3. Remove the shroud B bolts (2).

4. Slide the shrouds (3) toward the front to separate them from the air cleaner housing covers (4).

5. Slide the shrouds toward the rear until their hooks (5) are aligned with the recesses (6) of the fuel tank.

6. Turn the shrouds as shown in the figure, and then remove them.

The right and left shrouds can be removed in the same manner.

7. Install a hose clamp (7) to the breather tube (8) and shut the hose clamp securely.

8. Pull the breather tube (8) out of steering stem nut.

9. Unhook the fuel tank band (9) and air cleaner rubber (10).

10. Remove the fuel tank bolt and collar (11).

11. Remove the clamp A (12) from the throttle cable (13) and fuel pump wire (14).

12. Unhook the fuel feed hose (15) from the clamp B (16).

Fuel Tank

13. Pull the fuel tank (17) out of the frame and hang it to the left of the frame. Check the fuel tank stopper cable (18) for deterioration, kinks or other damage.

Do not support the fuel tank by the fuel feed hose (15).

WARNING

Gasoline is highly flammable and explosive.You can be burned or seriously injured when handling fuel.

• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks and flame away.

• Handle fuel only outdoors.

• Wipe up spills immediately.

14. Check for interference between the frame and tank and adjust the cushion rubbers (19) if necessary.

Installation

1. Install the fuel feed hose (1) to the clamp B (2).

2. Attach the clamp A (3) to the white tape (4) on the throttle cable (5) and fuel pump wire (6).

3. Install the fuel tank (7) on the frame.

4. Install the collar and fuel tank bolt (8).

5. Hook the air cleaner rubber (9) and the fuel tank band (10).

6. Put the breather tube (11) in the steering stem nut (12).

7. Remove the hose clamp (13) from the breather tube.

8. Align the shroud hooks (14) with the recesses (15) of the fuel tank.

9. Turn the shrouds (16) and hook them onto the frame (17).

10. Slide the shrouds (16) toward the rear so that the shrouds and the tabs (18) on the air cleaner housing covers are aligned.

11. Install the shroud B bolts (19), collars and shroud A bolts (20). Tighten the shroud B bolts to the specified torque: 3.8 lbf·ft (5.2 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)

Adjustments for Competition

Engine Mode Select Button

You can change engine output characteristic depending on track conditions by using the engine mode select button (1).

• PGM-FI mode 1: standard setting

• PGM-FI mode 2: smooth setting (reduce throttle response from the standard setting)

• PGM-FI mode 3: aggressive setting (increase throttle response from the standard setting)

An optional PGM-FI setting tool can change the ignition timing and amount of the fuel injection and save the setting data on the PGM-FI mode 2 or 3 (page 171).

Current Mode

Start the engine and push the engine mode select button (1) with your CRF stopped. The mode indicator (2) in the engine mode select button indicate a selected mode by the number of times the indicator blinks.

Mode Selection

1. Start the engine.

2. With your CRF stopped and the throttle closed, push and hold the engine mode select button for 1 or more second.

Make sure that the fast idle knob is pushed in (page 17). If the fast idle knob is pulled out, the engine mode will not change.

3. Release the engine mode select button. The mode indicator will indicate a selected mode by the number of times the indicator blinks.

4. Repeat steps 2 – 3 until the desired mode is indicated.

The front suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s weight and riding conditions by using one or more of the following methods:

Left Fork

• Inner chamber air pressure — Adjusting the left fork inner chamber air pressure adjusts the spring rate of the entire range of fork travel.

• Outer chamber air pressure — Adjusting the left fork outer chamber air pressure adjusts the spring rate from the middle range to final range of fork travel.

• Balance chamber air pressure — Adjusting the left fork balance chamber air pressure adjusts the spring rate of the initial range of fork travel. Increasing the balance chamber air pressure reduces the rebound of initial range of fork travel. (softer)

Right Fork

• Compression damping — Turning the compression damping adjuster (1) adjusts how quickly the fork compresses.

• Rebound damping — Turning the rebound damping adjuster (2) adjusts how quickly the fork extends.

The inverted fork on your CRF features sealed damper cartridges with dual (separate air and oil) chambers to prevent aeration. The design also isolates the oil in each fork/damper, which may contain air bubbles and/or metal particles, from the sealed cartridge to provide more consistent damping.

Do not dispose of the fork; see your dealer.

Right fork:

Right Front Suspension Air Pressure

Air is an unstable gas which builds up pressure as it is worked (such as in a fork). Air pressure acts as a progressive spring and affects the entire range of fork travel. This means the fork action on your CRF will get stiffer during a race. For this reason, release built-up air pressure in the right fork leg between motos. Be sure the fork is fully extended with the front tire off the ground when you release the pressure.

The standard air pressure is 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm2 ). You may relieve accumulated air pressure in the right fork leg by using the pressure release screws. The front wheel should be off the ground before you release the pressure. The air pressure should be adjusted according to the altitude and outside temperature.

1. Place a workstand under the engine, so that the front wheel is off the ground. Do not adjust air pressure with the front wheel on the ground as this will give false pressure readings.

2. Remove the pressure release screw (1).

3. Check that the O-ring (2) are in good condition.

4. Install and tighten the pressure release screw to the specified torque: Right fork pressure release screw: 1.0 lbf·ft (1.3 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)

Right fork:

Front Suspension Damping (Right Fork)

Compression Damping Adjustment

This adjustment affects how quickly the fork compresses. The fork compression damping adjuster has 32 positions or more. Turning the compression damping adjuster screw (1) one full turn changes the adjuster 8 positions. To adjust the adjuster to the standard position, proceed as follows:

Turn the adjuster clockwise (harder) until it will no longer turn (lightly seats). Turn the adjuster counterclockwise (softer) until it clicks. This click is position 1. The standard position is position 7 (7th click).

Rebound Damping Adjustment

The fork rebound damping adjuster has 32 positions or more. Turning the rebound damping adjuster screw (2) one full turn clockwise advances the adjuster 8 positions. To adjust the rebound damping to the standard setting, proceed as follows:

Turn the adjuster clockwise (harder) until it will no longer turn (lightly seats). Turn the adjuster counterclockwise (softer) until it clicks. This click is position 1. The standard position is position 29 (29th click).

Both compression and rebound damping can be increased by turning the adjuster clockwise.

NOTICE

Always start with position 1 when adjusting damping.

Do not turn the adjuster screw more than the given positions or the adjuster may be damaged.

Be sure that the compression and rebound adjusters are firmly located in a detent, and not between positions.

Fork Springs (Left Fork)

The CRF uses a pneumatic spring in the fork. The fork spring rate can be adjusted by changing the fork air pressure.

The forks on CRF’s are about right for riders weighing between 170 lb (77 kg) and 200 lb (91kg) (without riding gear). So if you are a heavier rider, you have to go up on the air pressure.

Do not adjust the left fork air pressure to a level that is outside the minimum or maximum level (pages 137, 138, 139).

For the left fork, air pressure of the inner chamber, outer chamber, and balance chamber can be set. When adjusting the left fork air pressure, adjust the inner chamber air pressure first, then the outer chamber air pressure, and finally the balance chamber air pressure.

The chambers are responsible for their respective stroke range shown below.

Recommended Setting

Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust to the stiff/soft setting of the recommended setting.

When adjusting the left fork to the recommended setting, adjust the rebound and compression damping adjuster to the standard settings.

Standard:

Soft:

Medium-stiff:

Stiff:

If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the Suspension Adjustment Guidelines (page 145).

Inner Chamber Air Pressure

When adjusting the left fork air pressure, adjust the inner chamber air pressure first, then the outer chamber air pressure, and finally the balance chamber air pressure.

1. Place an optional workstand under the engine, so that the front wheel is off the ground.

2. Remove the valve cap (1) and clean the area around the inner chamber air valve (2).

3. Adjust the inner chamber air pressure.

• Air fork pump 07AMJ-KRNA100 (USA only)

• Air fork pump adapter 07AMJ-KRNA110 (USA only)

When releasing air pressure from the inner chamber, the fork will be shortened.

When applying air pressure to the inner chamber, the fork will be extended.

Do not adjust the inner chamber air pressure to a level that is outside the minimum or maximum level.

Front Suspension Adjustments

The correct “cold” inner chamber air pressures are: Standard: 156 psi (1,075 kPa, 11.0 kgf/cm2 )

with standard outer chamber air pressure, standard balance chamber air pressure and standard oil capacity:

The higher or lower inner chamber air pressure affects the entire range of fork travel.

4. Check that there is no air leakage. If there is any air leakage, replace the air valve assembly.

5. Check that the valve cap is in good condition and replace it if necessary.

6. Install and tighten the valve cap securely.

7. Adjust the outer chamber air pressure (this page).

Outer Chamber Air Pressure

When adjusting the left fork air pressure, adjust the inner chamber air pressure first, then the outer chamber air pressure, and finally the balance chamber air pressure.

1. Place an optional workstand under the engine, so that the front wheel is off the ground.

2. Adjust the inner chamber air pressure (page 137).

3. Remove the valve cap (1) and clean the area around the outer chamber air valve (2).

4. Adjust the outer chamber air pressure.

• Air fork pump 07AMJ-KRNA100 (USA only)

• Air fork pump adapter 07AMJ-KRNA110 (USA only)

When releasing air pressure from the outer chamber, the fork will be shortened.

When applying air pressure to the outer chamber, the fork will be extended.

Do not adjust the outer chamber air pressure to a level that is outside the minimum or maximum level.

The correct “cold” outer chamber air pressures are:

with standard inner chamber air pressure, standard balance chamber air pressure and standard oil capacity:

The higher or lower outer chamber air pressure affects the entire range of fork travel.

5. Check that there is no air leakage. If there is any air leakage, replace the air valve assembly.

6. Check that the valve cap is in good condition and replace it if necessary.

7. Install and tighten the valve cap securely.

8. Adjust the balance chamber air pressure (page 139).

Balance Chamber Air Pressure

When adjusting the left fork air pressure, adjust the inner chamber air pressure first, then the outer chamber air pressure, and finally the balance chamber air pressure.

1. Place an optional workstand under the engine, so that the front wheel is off the ground.

2. Adjust the inner chamber air pressure (page 137).

3. Adjust the outer chamber air pressure (page 138).

4. Remove the valve cap (1) and clean the area around the balance chamber air valve (2).

5. Place a shop towel over the balance chamber air valve.

6. Release the air pressure from the balance chamber by pressing the valve center.

When releasing air pressure from the balance chamber, the fork will be extended.

Spraying a small amount of fork oil from the balance chamber air valve is normal when releasing air pressure from the balance chamber. This will not affect the fork performance.

7. Adjust the balance chamber air pressure.

• Air fork pump 07AMJ-KRNA100 (USA only)

• Air fork pump adapter 07AMJ-KRNA110 (USA only)

When applying air pressure to the balance chamber, the fork will be shortened.

Do not adjust the balance chamber air pressure to a level that is outside the minimum or maximum level.

The correct “cold” balance chamber air pressures are:

Standard: 156 psi (1,075 kPa , 11.0kgf/cm2)

Increasing the balance chamber air pressure reduces the rebound of initial range of fork travel. (softer)

with standard inner chamber air pressure, standard outer chamber air pressure and standard oil capacity:

The higher or lower balance chamber air pressure affects the initial range of fork travel.

8. Check that there is no air leakage. If there is any air leakage, replace the air valve assembly.

9. Check that the valve cap is in good condition and replace it if necessary.

10. Install and tighten the valve cap to the specified torque: 0.4 lbf·ft (0.5 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)

Rear Suspension Adjustments

The rear suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s weight and riding conditions by changing the spring pre-load and the rebound and compression damping.

The rear suspension assembly includes a damper unit that contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or dispose of the damper; see your dealer. The instructions found in this owner’s manual are limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only.

Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in an explosion, causing serious injury.

Service or disposal should only be done by your dealer or a qualified mechanic, equipped with the proper tools, safety equipment and an official Honda Service Manual.

If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle breakin time (about 1 hour) on it to ensure that the suspension has worked in.

Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load

Pre-load should be adjusted when the engine is cold because it is necessary to remove the muffler. An optional pin spanner is available for turning the shock spring lock nut and adjusting nut to adjust spring pre-load.

1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or equivalent support with the rear wheel off the ground.

2. Remove the subframe (page 38).

3. Remove the air cleaner case along with the air cleaner connecting tube (page 78).

4. Check that the spring pre-load is adjusted to the standard length. Adjust as necessary by loosening the shock spring lock nut (1) and turning the adjusting nut (2).

Each complete turn of the adjusting nut changes the spring length by 0.06 in (1.5 mm).

5. After adjustment, hold the adjusting nut and tighten the shock spring lock nut to the specified torque: 32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)

Refer to the following pages for the installation procedure of the removed parts:

• air cleaner case and air cleaner connecting tube: page 85 (Cylinder Head Installation)

• subframe: page 38

To increase spring pre-load

Loosen the shock spring lock nut with the optional pin spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to shorten the spring length (4). Do not shorten to less than:

Standard (Medium) spring (297 lbf/in (52 N/mm)):

8.90 in (226.0 mm)

Optional Soft spring (286 lbf/in (50 N/mm)):

8.78 in (223.0 mm)

Optional Stiff spring (308 lbf/in (54 N/mm)):

9.06 in (230.0 mm)

To decrease spring pre-load

Loosen the shock spring lock nut with the optional pin spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to increase the spring length (4). Do not increase to more than:

Standard (Medium) spring (297 lbf/in (52 N/mm)):

9.41 in (239.0 mm)

Optional Soft spring (286 lbf/in (50 N/mm)):

9.21 in (234.0 mm)

Optional Stiff spring (308 lbf/in (54 N/mm)):

9.41 in (239.0 mm)

Each turn of the adjusting nut changes spring length and spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring length/spring pre-load:

Standard: 0.06 in (1.5 mm)/18 lbf (78 N)

Pin spanners should be used for turning the shock spring lock nut and adjusting nut. See page 170 for optional pin spanners.

Spring pre-load length (Standard spring)

Standard: 9.39 in (238.5 mm)

Max. : 9.41 in (239.0 mm)

Min. : 8.90 in (226.0 mm)

Rear Suspension Damping

Compression Damping

Compression damping may be adjusted in two stages with separate adjusters.

The high speed damping adjuster (1) is effective when damping adjustment is desired for high speed operation. The low speed damping adjuster (2) should be used when damping adjustment is desired at relatively low speeds.

• When adjusting the compression damping adjusters, make sure to use the proper size tool to avoid damage.

• Both the high and low speed compression damping can be increased by turning the appropriate adjuster clockwise.

• Adjust the high speed compression adjuster in 1/4 turn increments.

• Be sure the low speed compression adjuster is firmly located in a detent, and not between positions.

High Speed Damping:

The high speed damping can be adjusted by turning the hexagonal portion of the compression adjuster.

The high speed damping adjuster has 3 1/2 turn or more.

To adjust to the standard position:

1. Turn the adjuster clockwise (harder) until it will no longer turn (lightly seats).

2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise (softer) 2 3/4 – 3 1/4 turns and adjust it until the punch mark (3) on the adjuster and the punch mark (4) on the adjuster body are aligned.

Low Speed Damping:

The low speed damping can be adjusted by turning the center screw of the compression adjuster.

The low speed compression adjuster has 13 positions or more.

Turning the adjuster one full turn clockwise advances the adjuster 4 positions.

To adjust to the standard position:

1. Turn the adjuster clockwise (harder) until it will no longer turn (lightly seat). Turn the adjuster counterclockwise (softer) until it clicks. This click is position 1.

2. Set the adjuster position 10 (10th click) and adjust it until the punch mark (5) on the adjuster and the punch mark (4) on the adjuster body are aligned.

Rebound Damping

The rebound damping adjuster (6) is located at the lower end of the rear shock absorber.

It has 17 positions or more. Turning the adjuster one full turn advances the adjuster 6 positions.

• When adjusting the rebound damping adjuster, make sure to use the proper size tool to avoid damage.

• Rebound damping can be increased by turning the adjuster clockwise.

• Be sure that the rebound adjuster is firmly located in a detent, and not between positions.

To adjust to the standard position:

1. Turn the adjuster clockwise (harder) until it will no longer turn (lightly seat). Turn the adjuster counterclockwise (softer) until it clicks. This click is position 1.

2. Set the adjuster position 7 (7th click) and adjust it until the punch marks (7) on the adjuster and the rear shock absorber are aligned.

Rear Suspension Race Sag

Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very important for competition use.

Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel travel used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride, with you on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, the race sag dimension should be about one-third of the maximum travel.

On your CRF, ride height is changed by adjusting the rear suspension spring pre-load.

Spring Pre-load & Race Sag Adjustment

The following adjustment procedure establishes the correct starting point for any suspension tuning — the proper rear suspension spring preload adjustment for your specific needs.

Your CRF should be at normal racing weight, including fuel, oil and coolant. You should be wearing all your normal protective apparel. You will need two helpers.

To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary to measure between two fixed points — from the center of the seat mounting bolt to the center of the chain adjuster lock nut as illustrated here — for two different situations:

unloaded: motorcycle on an optional workstand with rear suspension fully extended, no rider. loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with rider.

1. Support your CRF on an optional workstand with the rear wheel off the ground.

2. Measure the unloaded dimension.

3. Measure the loaded with rider dimension. Remove the workstand. With two helpers available, sit as far forward as possible on your CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel. Ask one helper to steady your CRF perfectly upright so you can put both feet on the pegs. Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of times to help the suspension overcome any situation and settle to a good reference point.

Ask the other helper to measure the loaded with rider dimension.

Example:

Unloaded = 24.61 in (625.0 mm)

– Loaded = 20.67 in (525.0 mm)

Race Sag = 3.94 in (100.0 mm)

4. Calculate the race sag dimension. To do this, subtract the loaded with rider dimension (step 3) from the unloaded dimension (step 2). Standard Race Sag: 4.13 in (105.0 mm)

Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain the desired handling results.

Decreasing the race sag dimension (example: 3.74 in, 95.0 mm) improves turning ability for tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced straight line stability.

Increasing the race sag dimension (example: 4.53 in, 115.0 mm) may improve stability on faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce turning performance slightly and may upset the balance between the front and rear suspension, producing a harsher ride. This will happen if the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel toward the more progressive end of its range.

Spring Rates

If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider and cannot set the proper ride height without altering the correct spring pre-load, consider an aftermarket rear shock spring.

A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you to add excessive spring pre-load to get the right race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear wheel to unload too much in the air and top out as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out from light braking, or kick sideways over lips and squareedged terrain. It may even top-out when you dismount your CRF.

Because of the great absorption quality of the shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to notice when your CRF’s suspension is bottoming. Some riders may think the damping or perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh. In reality, the problem is most likely insufficient spring pre-load or a spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents utilizing the full travel.

Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension system may bottom slightly every few minutes at full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this occasional bottoming may cost more in overall suspension performance than it is worth.

A spring that is too stiff for your weight will not allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration and will pass more bumps on to you.

Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions

Soft Surface

On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider adjusting to the stiffer setting of the front suspension and increasing compression damping of the rear suspension.

Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps are usually larger, there’s more distance between them, giving the shock more time to recover.

You may want a little bit stiffer front suspension for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and improve straight-line stability.

In a muddy event, stiffer front suspension setting and stiffer aftermarket rear shock spring may help, especially if you are heavier than the average rider. Your CRF may be under-sprung because of the added weight of the clinging mud. This additional weight may compress the suspension too much and affect traction.

Hard Surface

For a fast, hard track with no large jumps, you can probably run the same setting as normal, but run softer damping both ways-compression and rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the wheel will follow the rough ground and small bumps much better, and you will hook up better. With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground quickly enough after each bump. The result is a loss of traction and slower lap times.

Suspension Adjustment Guidelines

Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF, using the methods described on pages 135 – 143. Remember to make all adjustments in one-click or 1/4 turn increments. Test ride after each adjustment.

Front Suspension Adjustment

Adjustments for Type of Track

If the suspension is too stiff/soft on part of travel, adjust according to the “Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff On Part Of Travel” chart on next page.

Recommended Setting

Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff On Part Of Travel

Rear Suspension Adjustment

Adjustments for Type of Track

Symptoms and Adjustment

• Always begin with the standard settings.

• Turn the low speed compression and rebound adjusters in one-click increments, and the high speed compression adjuster in 1/4 turn increments at a time. Adjusting two or more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to pass over the best adjustment. Test ride after each adjustment.

• If, after setting, the suspension feels unusual, find the corresponding symptom in the table and test stiffer or softer compression and/or rebound damping adjustments until the correct settings are obtained as described.

Troubleshooting

The items that are serviceable using this Manual are followed by the page number reference in parenthesis. The items that require use of an official Honda Service Manual are followed by an asterisk (*).

ENGINE DOES NOT START OR IS HARD TO START

ENGINE LACKS POWER

POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW AND IDLE SPEED

POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED

POOR HANDLING

Steering is heavy

• Steering stem adjusting nut too tight*

• Damaged steering head bearings

• Faulty HPSD*

Either wheel is wobbling

• Excessive wheel bearing play

• Bent rim

• Improperly installed wheel hub

• Excessively worn swingarm pivot bearings

• Bent frame

The motorcycle pulls to one side

• Front and rear wheels not aligned

• Bent fork

• Bent swingarm

• Bent axle shaft

• Bent frame

See other models: 2018 NM4 2019 CBR1000RR 2019 CBR300R 2019 CRF450X 2018 PIONEER 1000-5