Contents
Contents
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY............................. 1
Important Safety Information............................ 2
Important Safety Precautions........................ 2
Loading.............................................................. 3
Accessories & Modifications ............................ 4
Safety Labels..................................................... 5
OPERATING CONTROLS ........................... 7
Operation Component Locations....................... 8
BEFORE RIDING........................................... 9
Are You Ready to Ride? ................................. 10
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?................ 11
Pre-ride Inspection ...................................... 11
BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS .... 13
Safe Riding Precautions .............................. 14
Starting & Stopping the Engine....................... 15
Shifting Gears.................................................. 17
Braking............................................................ 18
Parking............................................................. 19
Post-ride Inspection......................................... 20
Break-in Guidelines......................................... 21
SERVICING YOUR HONDA...................... 23
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance...................... 24
Maintenance Safety......................................... 25
Important Safety Precautions...................... 25
Maintenance Schedule..................................... 26
General Competition Maintenance.................. 29
Before & After Competition Maintenance...... 33
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance.... 33
After Competition Maintenance.................. 33
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations................ 35
Seat Removal................................................... 36
Fuel Tank Removal......................................... 37
Subframe Upright Position.............................. 39
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System......................................................41
Engine Oil........................................................43
Transmission Oil..............................................46
Coolant.............................................................48
Air Cleaner.......................................................51
Crankcase Breather..........................................53
Engine
Throttle.............................................................54
Clutch System..................................................56
Hot Start Lever.................................................60
Spark Plug........................................................61
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler.......................................62
Spark Arrester..................................................65
Valve Clearance...............................................66
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin.........................74
Chassis
Suspension .......................................................82
Brakes ..............................................................86
Wheels..............................................................90
Tires & Tubes ..................................................91
Side Stand ........................................................93
Drive Chain......................................................94
Additional Maintenance Procedures................97
Electrical
Battery..............................................................99
Headlight & Taillight.....................................101
Appearance Care............................................102
ADJUSTMENTS FOR COMPETITION .... 105
Front Suspension Adjustments ......................106
Rear Suspension Adjustments........................120
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions......................................................124
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines ...............125
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips..........128
Chassis Adjustments......................................135
Gearing...........................................................136
Tire Selection for Track Conditions.............. 137
Personal Fit Adjustments............................... 138
TIPS .............................................................. 139
Transporting Your Motorcycle...................... 140
Storing Your Honda ...................................... 141
You & the Environment ................................143
Troubleshooting.............................................144
TAKING CARE OF THE
UNEXPECTED............................................ 145
If a Fuse Blows.............................................. 146
If Your Battery Is Low (or Dead)..................147
If You Crash.................................................. 148
TECHNICAL INFORMATION ................ 149
Vehicle Identification....................................150
Specifications ................................................ 151
Torque Specifications.................................... 154
High Altitude Carburetor Adjustment........... 157
Emission Control Systems............................. 158
Oxygenated Fuels.......................................... 160
Competition Logbook.................................... 161
Optional Parts List......................................... 163
Spare Parts & Equipment .............................. 164
Wiring Diagram............................................. 165
CONSUMER INFORMATION ................. 167
Authorized Manuals ...................................... 168
Warranty Coverage........................................ 169
Warranty Service........................................... 170
Contacting Honda.......................................... 171
Your Honda Dealer........................................ 172
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only)............ 173
INDEX .......................................................... 174
QUICK REFERENCE
MOM 15896 (1605)
31KSC710 CRF250X
2017
Honda CRF250X
OWNER’S MANUAL & COMPETITION HANDBOOK
FOR OFF-ROAD USE ONLY
This vehicle is designed and manufactured for off-road use only.
USA only:
It conforms to US EPA Noise Emission regulations, but does not conform to Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards or US EPA On Highway
Exhaust Emission regulations, and operation on public streets, roads, or highways is illegal. The vehicle is equipped with a USDA qualified spark
arrester. Obey local laws and regulations.
It conforms to US EPA, California, and Environment Canada emission regulations for off-road motorcycles.
Introduction
Introduction
Introduction
Congratulations on choosing your Honda CRF off-
road motorcycle.
When you own a Honda, you’re part of a
worldwide family of satisfied customers-people
who appreciate Honda’s reputation for building
quality into every product.
Your Honda was designed as a recreational
motorcycle for off-road use by one rider only.
Before riding, take time to get acquainted with
your CRF and how it works. To protect your
investment, we urge you to take responsibility for
keeping your CRF well maintained. Scheduled
service is a must, of course. But it’s just as
important to observe the break-in guidelines, and
perform all the pre-ride and other periodic checks
detailed in this manual.
You should also read the owner’s manual before
you ride. It’s full of facts, instructions, safety
information, and helpful tips.
To make it easy to use, the manual contains a table
of contents, a detailed list of topics at the beginning
of each section, and an index at the back of the
book.
As you read this manual, you will find information
that is preceded by a symbol. This
information is intended to help you avoid damage
to your Honda, other property, or the environment.
Unless you are mechanically qualified and have
the proper tools, you should see your dealer for the
service and adjustment procedures discussed in
this manual.
The official Honda Service Manual for your CRF
is available (page 168). It is the same manual your
dealer uses. If you plan to do any service on your
CRF beyond the standard maintenance procedures
in this manual, you will find the Service Manual a
valuable reference.
Read the Warranties Booklet (page 169)
thoroughly so you understand the coverages that
protect your new Honda and are aware of your
rights and responsibilities.
This motorcycle has no cooling fan. For this
reason, engine overheating and coolant loss will
occur if the engine is kept idling too long when hot.
Additionally, when riding in mud or sand, or any
condition that causes high engine load at low
vehicle speed, the time it takes for the engine to
overheat will be shortened, especially when the
ambient temperature is high. Continuing to operate
the unit in these conditions will result in engine
damage.
Whenever you ride, tread lightly. By staying on
established trails and riding only in approved
areas, you help protect the environment and keep
off-road riding areas open for the future.
If you have any questions, or if you ever need a
special service or repairs, remember that your
dealer knows your CRF best and is dedicated to
your complete satisfaction.
Please report any change of address or ownership
to your dealer so we will be able to contact you
concerning important product information.
You may also want to visit our website at
USA: www.powersports.honda.com.
Canada: www.honda.ca.
Happy riding!
California Proposition 65 Warning
WARNING: This product contains or emits
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm.
Safety Messages
A Few Words About Safety
A Few Words About Safety
Your safety, and the safety of others, is very important. And operating this motorcycle safely is an important responsibility.
To help you make informed decisions about safety, we have provided operating procedures and other information on labels and in this manual.
This information alerts you to potential hazards that could hurt you or others.
Of course, it is not practical or possible to warn you about all hazards associated with operating or maintaining a motorcycle. You must use your own good
judgment.
You will find important safety information in a variety of forms, including:
• Safety Labels — on the motorcycle.
• Safety Messages — preceded by a safety alert symbol and one of three signal words: DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.
These signal words mean:
• Safety Headings — such as Important Safety Reminders or Important Safety Precautions.
• Safety Section — such as Motorcycle Safety.
• Instructions — how to use this motorcycle correctly and safety.
This entire book is filled with important safety information — please read it carefully.
You WILL be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
DANGER
WARNING
CAUTION
Motorcycle Safety
Motorcycle Safety 1
Motorcycle Safety
This section presents some of the most important
information and recommendations to help you ride
your CRF safely. Please take a few moments to
read these pages. This section also includes
information about the location of safety labels on
your CRF.
Important Safety Information ............................2
Important Safety Precautions.........................2
Loading..............................................................3
Accessories & Modifications.............................4
Safety Labels......................................................5
Important Safety Information
2 Motorcycle Safety
Important Safety Information
Your CRF can provide many years of pleasure, if
you take responsibility for your own safety and
understand the challenges you can meet in
competitive racing.
There is much that you can do to protect yourself
when you ride. You’ll find many helpful
recommendations throughout this manual. The
following are a few that we consider to be most
important.
Always Wear a Helmet. It’s a proven fact:
helmets significantly reduce the number and
severity of head injuries. So always wear an
approved motorcycle helmet. We also
recommended that you wear eye protection, sturdy
boots, gloves, and other protective gear.
Never Carry a Passenger. Your CRF is designed
for one person only. There are no handholds,
footrests, or seat for a second person–so never
carry a passenger. A passenger could interfere with
your ability to move around to maintain your
balance and control of the motorcycle.
Ride Off-road Only. Your CRF is designed and
manufactured for off-road use only. The tires are
not made for pavement, and the CRF does not have
turn signals and other features required for use on
public roads. If you need to cross a paved or public
road, get off and walk your CRF across.
Always Wear Protective Gear. We recommend
that you wear sturdy boots, gloves, and other
protective gear. The exhaust system becomes very
hot during operation, and it remains hot after
operation. Never touch any part of the hot exhaust
system. Wear clothing that fully covers your legs.
Do not wear loose clothing which could catch on
the control levers, kickstarter, footpegs, drive
chain, or wheels.
Take Time to Learn and Practice. Developing
off-road riding skills is a gradual, step-by-step
process. Start by practicing at low speed in a safe
area and slowly build your skills.
Personal instruction from an experienced rider can
also be valuable.
If you need assistance, ask your dealer about riding
groups in your area.
Also be sure to read the Tips & Practice Guide for
the Off-Highway Motorcyclist booklet that came
with your CRF (USA only).
Be Alert for Off-road Hazards. The terrain can
present a variety of challenges when you ride
off-road. Continually ‘‘read” the terrain for
unexpected turns, drop-offs, rocks, ruts, and other
hazards. Always keep your speed low enough to
allow time to see and react to hazards.
Ride within Your Limits. Pushing limits is another
major cause of motorcycle crashes.
Never ride beyond your personal abilities or faster
than conditions warrant. Remember that alcohol,
drugs, fatigue, and inattention can significantly
reduce your ability to make good judgments and
ride safety.
Don’t Drink and Ride. Alcohol and riding don’t
mix. Even one drink can reduce your ability to
respond to changing conditions, and your reaction
time gets worse with every additional drink. So
don’t drink and ride, and don’t let your friends
drink and ride either.
Keep Your Honda In Safe Condition. It’s
important to keep your CRF properly maintained
and in safe riding condition. Having a breakdown
can be difficult, especially if you are stranded
off-road far from your base. To help avoid
problems, inspect your CRF before every ride and
perform all recommended maintenance.
Important Safety Precautions
Loading
Motorcycle Safety 3
Loading
Your CRF was designed as a rider-only
motorcycle. It was not designed to carry a
passenger or cargo. A passenger or cargo could
interfere with your ability to move around to
maintain your balance and control of the CRF.
In addition, exceeding the weight limits or carrying
an unbalanced load can seriously affect your
CRF’s handling, braking, and stability.
Adding accessories or making modifications that
change this CRF’s design and performance can
also make it unsafe. Also, the weight of any
accessories will reduce the maximum load the
motorcycle can carry.
More specific information on load limits,
accessories, and modifications follows.
How much weight you put on your CRF, and how
you load it, are important to your safety. If you
decide to carry cargo, you should be aware of the
following information.
Loading Guidelines
As discussed on page 2, we recommended that you
do not carry any cargo on this motorcycle.
However, if you decide to carry cargo, ride at
reduced speeds and follow these commonsense
guidelines:
• Keep cargo small and light. Make sure it
cannot easily be caught on brush or other
objects, and that it does not interfere with your
ability to shift position to maintain balance and
stability.
• Place weight as close to the center of the
motorcycle as possible.
• Do not attach large or heavy items (such as a
sleeping bag or tent) to the handlebar, fork, or
front fender.
• Check that both tires are inflated properly.
Loading
WARNING
Overloading or carrying a passenger can
cause a crash and you can be seriously
hurt or killed.
Follow all loading guidelines in this
manual.
Accessories & Modifications
4 Motorcycle Safety
Accessories & Modifications
Modifying your CRF or using non-Honda
accessories can make your CRF unsafe.
Before you consider making any modifications or
adding an accessory, be sure to read the following
information.
Accessories
We strongly recommend that you use only Honda
Genuine accessories that have been specifically
designed or approved and tested for your CRF.
Because Honda cannot test all other accessories,
you must be personally responsible for proper
selection, installation, and use of non-Honda
accessories. Check with your dealer for assistance
and always follow this guideline:
• Make sure the accessory does not reduce
ground clearance and lean angle, limit
suspension travel or steering travel, alter your
riding position, or interfere with operating any
controls.
Modifications
We strongly advise you not to remove any original
equipment or modify your CRF in any way that
would change its design or operation.
Such changes could seriously impair your CRF’s
handling, stability, and braking, making it unsafe
to ride.
We also advice you not to make any modifications
or remove any equipment (such as the USDA
qualified spark arrester or emission control system
components) that would make the motorcycle
illegal in your area.
Accessories & Modifications
WARNING
Improper accessories or modifications
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding modifications and
accessories.
Safety Labels
Motorcycle Safety 5
Safety Labels
This page shows the locations of safety labels on your CRF. Some labels warn you of potential hazards that could cause serious injury. Others provide important
safety information. Read these labels carefully and don’t remove them.
If the label comes off or becomes hard to read, contact your dealer for replacement.
For Canada
6 Motorcycle Safety
Blank page
Operation Component Locations
8 Operating Controls
Operation Component Locations
clutch lever
engine stop button
front brake lever
throttle gripstart button
tripmeterhot start lever
shift lever
choke knob
fuel valve
kickstarter
rear brake pedal
Before Riding
Before Riding 9
Before Riding
Before each ride, you need to make sure you and
your Honda are both ready to ride. To help get you
prepared, this section discusses how to evaluate
your riding readiness, and what items you should
check on your CRF.
For information about suspension, carburetor and
other adjustment for competition see page 105.
Are You Ready to Ride?..................................10
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride? ................11
Pre-ride Inspection.......................................11
Are You Ready to Ride?
10 Before Riding
Are You Ready to Ride?
Before riding your CRF for the first time, we
strongly recommend that you read this owner’s
manual, make sure you understand the safety
messages, and know how to operate the controls.
Before each ride, it’s also important to make sure
you and your CRF are both ready to ride.
For information about suspension, carburetor, and
other adjustments, see page 105.
Whether you’re preparing for competition or for
practice, always make sure you are:
• In good physical and mental condition
• Free of alcohol and drugs
• Wearing an approved helmet, eye protection,
and other appropriate riding gear
Although complete protection is not possible,
wearing the proper gear can reduce the chance or
severity of injury when you ride.
WARNING
Not wearing a helmet increases the
chance of serious injury or death in a
crash.
Be sure you always wear a helmet, eye
protection and other protective apparel
when you ride.
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?
Before Riding 11
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?
Competitive riding can be tough on a motorcycle,
so it’s important to inspect your CRF and correct
any problems you find before each ride. Check the
following items (page numbers are at the right):
Check the following before each ride:
• Engine oil level........................................... 44
• Transmission oil level................................. 47
• Coolant for proper level.............................. 48
• Cooling system and hoses for condition..... 49
• Spark plug for proper heat range, carbon
fouling and direct ignition coil connector for
looseness..................................................... 61
• Air cleaner for condition and
contamination ............................................. 51
• Clutch operation and freeplay..................... 56
• Hot start lever freeplay ............................... 60
• Breather drain for cleaning......................... 53
• Steering head bearing and related parts for
condition..................................................... 97
• Carburetor throttle operation ...................... 55
• Engine idle speed for stable and proper
RPM.......................................................... 134
• Tires for damage or improper inflation
pressure....................................................... 91
• Spokes for looseness................................... 90
• Rim locks for looseness.............................. 90
• Front and rear suspension for proper
operation............................................... 82, 83
• Front and rear brakes, check operation....... 87
• Drive chain for correct slack and
adequate lubrication.................................... 94
• Drive chain sliders and drive chain rollers
for damage or wear..................................... 96
• Exhaust pipe/Muffler inspection................. 62
• Every possible part for looseness (such as
cylinder head nuts, engine mounting bolts/
nuts, axle nuts, handlebar holder bolts, fork
bridge pinch bolts, drive chain adjuster, drive
chain guide, wire harness connectors,
kickstarter mounting bolt, etc.)....98, 154-156
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before riding
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always perform a pre-ride inspection
before every ride and correct any
problems.
Pre-ride Inspection
12 Before Riding
Blank page
Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions 13
Basic Operating Instructions
This section gives basic information on how to
start and stop your engine as well as break-in
guidelines.
Safe Riding Precautions...............................14
Side Stand....................................................14
Tripmeter .....................................................14
Starting & Stopping the Engine.......................15
Preparation...................................................15
Fuel valve.....................................................15
Starting Procedure........................................15
Flooded Engine............................................16
How to Stop the Engine...............................16
Shifting Gears ..................................................17
Braking.............................................................18
Parking.............................................................19
Post-ride Inspection .........................................20
Break-in Guidelines.........................................21
Basic Operating Instructions
14 Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions
Before riding your CRF for the first time, please
review the Important Safety Precautions
ޓ
begininng on page 2 and the previous section,
titled Before Riding.
For your safety, avoid starting or operating the
engine in an enclosed area such as a garage.
Your CRF’s exhaust contains poisonous carbon
monoxide gas which can collect rapidly in an
enclosed area and cause illness or death.
The side stand (1) is used to support your CRF
while parked (page 19). To operate, use your foot
to lower the side stand until it is fully extended.
Before riding, raise the side stand.
The tripmeter (1) is used to record the distance
traveled (USA: miles, Canada: kilometers) per trip
or section of route.
To operate, pull the tripmeter reset knob (2) out
(OFF) and turn it until the meter shows all zeros
(0), then push the knob in (ON).
Safe Riding Precautions
WARNING
Running the engine of your vehicle while
in an enclosed or even partially enclosed
area can cause a rapid build-up of toxic
carbon monoxide gas.
Breathing this colorless, odorless gas can
quickly cause unconsciousness and lead
to death.
Only run your vehicle's engine when it is
located in a well ventilated area outdoors.
Side Stand
(1) side stand
(1)
Tripmeter
(1) tripmeter
(2) tripmeter reset knob
(2)
(1)
OFF ON
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Basic Operating Instructions 15
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described below.
Your CRF can be started with the transmission in
gear by pulling in the clutch lever before operating
the kickstarter or start button.
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral.
Turn the fuel valve ON.
The three-way fuel valve is used to control the
flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor.
ON–Turning the fuel valve ON before attempting
to start the engine allows fuel to flow from the fuel
tank to the carburetor.
OFF–Turning the fuel valve OFF prevents the
flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor.
RES–Turning the fuel valve to RES allows fuel to
flow from the reserve fuel supply to the carburetor.
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described as follow.
Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant
levels before starting the engine (pages 44, 47, 48).
Snapping the throttle or fast idling for more than 5
minutes may cause exhaust pipe discoloration.
To restart a warm engine, follow the procedure for
“High Air Temperature.”
Normal Air Temperature 10°C-35°C (50°F-95°F)
1. Turn the fuel valve (1) ON.
2. Pull the choke knob (2) fully ON, if the engine
is cold.
3. Keep the throttle fully closed.
4. Pull the clutch lever all the way in, and depress
the start button. Or operate the kickstarter to
start the engine. Starting from the top of the
stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid,
continuous motion. Do not operate the throttle.
NOTICE
Allowing the kickstarter to snap back freely
against the pedal stop can damage the engine
case.
5. Warm up the engine; don’t operate the throttle.
6. About 15 seconds after the engine starts, push
the choke knob all the way to fully OFF. If
idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.
NOTICE
Extended use of the choke may impair piston and
cylinder wall lubrication and damage the engine.
Preparation
Fuel Valve
(1) fuel valve
ON OFF RES
(1)
Starting Procedure
(1) fuel valve (2) choke knob
(1)
(2)
16 Basic Operating Instructions
Starting & Stopping the Engine
High Air Temperature 35°C (95°F) or above
1. Do not use the choke.
2. Keep the throttle fully closed.
3. Start the engine following step 4 under
“Normal Air Temperature”.
Low Air Temperature 10°C (50°F) or below
1. Follow steps 1-4 under “Normal Air
Temperature”.
2. Continue warming up the engine until it runs
smoothly and responds to the throttle when the
choke knob is pushed back all the way to fully
OFF.
NOTICE
Extended use of the choke may impair piston and
cylinder wall lubrication and damage the engine.
Hot Engine Starting
1. Pull the hot start lever (3) all the way in and
start the engine following step 4 under
“Normal Air Temperature”.
2. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
Starting the engine after a stall during riding or
after a fall:
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Pull the hot start lever all the way in and start
the engine.
(Do not open the throttle).
3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
Starting a flooded engine:
(Using the start button)
1. Do not use the choke.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral with the
throttle fully opened.
3. Pull the hot start lever and clutch lever all the
way in and depress the start button for 5
seconds.
If the engine starts, quickly close the throttle,
then open it slightly if idling is unstable. If the
engine does not start, wait 10 seconds, and then
follow the regular starting procedure.
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
(Using the kickstarter)
1. Do not use the choke.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral with the
throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter
operation approximately ten times very slowly
to discharge excessive fuel from the engine.
Close the throttle.
3. Pull the hot start lever all the way in and start
the engine (Do not open the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
Normal Engine Stop
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
3. Lightly open the throttle (1) two or three times,
and then close it.
4. Push and hold the engine stop button (2) until
the engine stops completely.
Failure to close the fuel valve may cause theޓ
carburetor to overflow, result in hard starting.
Emergency Engine Stop
To stop the engine in an emergency, push and hold
the engine stop button.
(3) hot start lever
(3)
Flooded Engine How to Stop the Engine
(1) throttle (2) engine stop button
(1)
(2)
Shifting Gears
Basic Operating Instructions 17
Shifting Gears
Your CRF has five forward gears in a one-down,
four-up shift pattern.
To start riding, after the engine has been warmed
and the side stand raised.
1. Close the throttle and pull the front brake lever
in.
2. Pull the clutch lever all the way in.
3. Depress the shift lever from neutral down to
first gear.
4. Release the front brake lever. Gradually open
the throttle while you slowly release the clutch
lever. If the engine rpm (speed) is too low
when you release the clutch lever, the engine
will stall.
If the engine rpm (speed) is too high or you
release the clutch lever too quickly, your CRF
may lurch forward.
5. When you attain a moderate speed, close the
throttle, pull the clutch lever in, and raise the
shift lever. After shifting, release the clutch
lever and apply the throttle.
6. To continue shifting up to each higher gear,
repeat step 5.
7. To shift down to a lower gear, close the
throttle, pull the clutch lever in, and depress the
shift lever. After shifting, release the clutch
lever and apply the throttle.
Remember to close the throttle and pull the clutch
lever in completely before shifting.
NOTICE
Improper shifting may damage the engine,
transmission, and drive train.
Learning when to shift gears comes with
experience. Upshift to a higher gear or reduce
throttle before engine rpm (speed) gets too high.
Downshift to a lower gear before you feel the
engine laboring (lugging) at low rpm.
NOTICE
Downshifting can help slow your motorcycle,
especially on downhills. However, downshifting
when engine rpm is too high can cause engine
damage.
NOTICE
To prevent transmission damage, do not coast or
tow the motorcycle for long distances with the
engine off.
Braking
18 Basic Operating Instructions
Braking
To slow or stop, apply the front brake lever and
rear brake pedal smoothly, while downshifting to
match your speed. Gradually increase braking as
you feel the brakes slowing your speed. To prevent
stalling the engine, pull the clutch lever in before
coming to a complete stop. For support, put your
left foot down first, then your right foot when you
are through using the rear brake pedal.
For maximum braking, close the throttle and
firmly apply the front brake lever and rear brake
pedal controls.
Applying the brakes too hard may cause the wheels
to lock and slide, reducing control of your CRF. If
this happens, release the brake controls, steer
straight ahead until you regain control, then
reapply the brakes more gently.
Generally, reduce your speed or complete braking
before beginning a turn. Avoid braking or closing
the throttle quickly while turning. Either action
may cause one or both wheels to slip. Any wheel
slip will reduce your control of your CRF.
When riding in wet or raining conditions, or on
loose surfaces, the ability to maneuver and stop
will be reduced. All of your actions should be
smooth under these conditions. Rapid acceleration,
braking, or turning may cause loss of control. For
your safety, exercise extreme caution when
braking, accelerating, or turning.
When descending a long, steep grade, use engine
compression braking by downshifting, with
intermittent use of both brakes.
When you brake to a stop, pull the clutch lever in
before stopping completely to prevent stalling the
engine. For support, put your left foot on the
ground first, then your right foot when you have
finished braking.
Parking
Basic Operating Instructions 19
Parking
Lower the side stand to support your CRF.
If you’re through riding for the day, turn the fuel
valve OFF. Always choose a level surface to park.
Post-ride Inspection
20 Basic Operating Instructions
Post-ride Inspection
When you return home after riding, thoroughly
clean your CRF and remove any dirt, mud, brush,
rocks or other objects you may have picked up
along the way.
After cleaning, carefully inspect your CRF for
leaks or damage.
Be sure to lubricate the drive chain (page 96) to
prevent rusting.
Break-in Guidelines
Basic Operating Instructions 21
Break-in Guidelines
Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and
performance by paying extra attention to how you
ride during the first operating day or 15 miles
(25 km).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and
rapid acceleration.
This same procedure should be followed each time
when:
• piston is replaced
• piston rings are replaced
• cylinder is replaced
• crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced
22 Basic Operating Instructions
Blank page
Servicing Your Honda
Servicing Your Honda 23
Servicing Your Honda
Keeping your CRF well maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
protect your investment, get maximum
performance, avoid breakdowns, and have more
fun.
To help keep your CRF in good shape, this section
includes a Maintenance Schedule for required
servicing and step-by-step instructions for specific
maintenance tasks. You’ll also find important
safety precautions, information on oils, and tips for
keeping your Honda looking good.
The ICM (Ignition Control Module) system is used
on this motorcycle; consequently, routine ignition
timing adjustment is unnecessary. If you want to
check the ignition timing, refer to the Honda
Service Manual (page 168).
For information about the exhaust emission and
noise emission requirements of the U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the
California Air Resources Board (CARB), and
Environment Canada (EC), see page 158.
An optional tool kit may be available.
Check with your dealer’s parts department.
USA only
Maintenance, replacement or repair of the
emission control devices and systems may be
performed by any motorcycle repair
establishment or individual using parts that are
“certified” to EPA standards.
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance......................24
Maintenance Safety..........................................25
Important Safety Precautions.......................25
Maintenance Schedule .....................................26
General Competition Maintenance ..................29
Before & After Competition Maintenance ......33
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance.....33
After Competition Maintenance ..................33
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations ................35
Seat Removal...................................................36
Fuel Tank Removal..........................................37
Subframe Upright Position ..............................39
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System......................................................41
Engine Oil........................................................43
Transmission Oil..............................................46
Coolant.............................................................48
Air Cleaner.......................................................51
Crankcase Breather..........................................53
Engine
Throttle.............................................................54
Clutch System..................................................56
Hot Start Lever.................................................60
Spark Plug........................................................61
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler.......................................62
Spark Arrester..................................................65
Valve Clearance...............................................66
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin.........................74
Chassis
Suspension.......................................................82
Front Suspension Inspection ....................... 82
Rear Suspension Inspection.........................83
Recommended Fork Oil .............................. 84
Fork Oil Change.......................................... 84
Brakes..............................................................86
Wheels............................................................. 90
Tires & Tubes.................................................. 91
Side Stand........................................................93
Drive Chain .....................................................94
Additional Maintenance Procedures................ 97
Electrical
Battery ............................................................. 99
Headlight & Taillight ....................................101
Appearance Care ........................................... 102
The Importance of Maintenance
24 Servicing Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance
A well-maintained motorcycle is essential for safe,
economical, and trouble-free riding. It will also
help reduce air pollution. Careful pre-ride
inspections and good maintenance are especially
important because your CRF is designed to be
ridden over rough off-road terrain.
To help you properly care for your CRF, this
section of the manual provides a Maintenance
Schedule. The service intervals in this schedule are
based on average riding conditions.
More frequent service is needed if you subject your
CRF to severe use or ride in unusually wet or dusty
areas.
Frequent servicing of the air cleaner is especially
important to help you avoid a possible costly
engine repair.
If your CRF overturns or is involved in a crash, be
sure your dealer inspects all major parts, even if
you are able to make some repairs.
Remember, proper maintenance is your
responsibility. Be sure to inspect your CRF before
each ride and follow the Maintenance Schedule in
this section.
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before you ride
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the inspection and
maintenance recommendations and
schedules in this owner’s manual.
Maintenance Safety
Servicing Your Honda 25
Maintenance Safety
This section includes instructions on how to
perform some important maintenance tasks.
Some of the most important safety precautions
follow. However, we cannot warn you of every
conceivable hazard that can arise in performing
maintenance. Only you can decide whether or not
you should perform a given task.
• Make sure the engine is off before you begin
any maintenance or repairs.
This will help eliminate several potential
hazards:
Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine
exhaust. Be sure there is adequate ventilation
whenever you operate the engine.
Burns from hot motorcycle parts. Let the
engine and exhaust system cool before
touching.
Injury from moving parts. Do not run the
engine unless instructed to do so.
• Read the instructions before you begin, and
make sure you have the tools and skills
required.
• To help prevent the motorcycle from falling
over, park it on a firm, level surface, using a
side stand or an optional workstand to provide
support.
• To reduce the possibility of a fire or explosion,
be careful when working around gasoline. Use
only a non-flammable (high flash point)
solvent such as kerosene — not gasoline — to
clean parts. Keep cigarettes, sparks, and flames
away from all fuel-related parts.
WARNING
Failure to properly follow maintenance
instructions and precautions can cause
you to be seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the procedures and
precautions in this owner’s manual.
Important Safety Precautions
Maintenance Schedule
26 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Schedule
To maintain the safety and reliability of your CRF,
regular inspection and service is required as shown
in the Maintenance Schedules – Regular
OFF-ROAD Use (non-competition) and
Competition Use – that follow.
The Maintenance Schedule lists items that can be
performed with basic mechanical skills and hand
tools. Procedures for these items are provided in
this manual.
The Maintenance Schedule also includes items that
involve more extensive procedures and may
require special training, tools, and equipment.
Therefore, we recommend that you have your
dealer perform these tasks unless you have
advanced mechanical skills and the required tools.
Procedures for items in these schedules are
provided in a service manual available for
purchase from your dealer (page 168).
Because your CRF does not have an odometer,
service intervals in the maintenance schedules are
expressed in terms of riding days as well as miles.
To avoid overlooking required service, we urge
you to develop a convenient way to record the
number of days and/or distance traveled (USA:
miles, Canada: kilometers) you ride.
If you do not feel capable of performing a given
task or need assistance, remember that your Honda
dealer knows your CRF best and is fully equipped
to maintain and repair it. If you decide to do your
own maintenance, use only Honda Genuine Parts
or their equivalents for repair or replacement to
ensure the best quality and reliability.
Perform the pre-ride inspection (page 11) at each
scheduled maintenance period.
Each item on the maintenance schedule requires
some mechanical knowledge. Certain items
(particularly those marked *and**) may require
more technical information and tools. Consult your
dealer.
* Should be serviced by your dealer, unless the
owner has proper tools and service data and is
mechanically qualified.
Refer to the official Honda Service Manual
(page 168).
** In the interest of safety, we recommend these
items be serviced only by your dealer.
Maintenance Procedures:
I : inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate, or replace if
necessary
C: clean
A:adjust
L: lubricate
R:replace
Servicing Your Honda 27
Maintenance Schedule
(NOTE 1)
(NOTE 3)
(NOTE 2)
(NOTE 1)
(NOTE 3)
I
R
R
I
I
I
R
I, L
I
I
I
I
I
C
I
I
I
R
R
I
I
I
R
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
C
I
C
I
I
I
R
R
I
I
I
I
I
R
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
C
I
I
I
R
R
I
I
I
R
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
C
I
C
I
I
I
R
R
I
I
R
I
I
R
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
41
42
55
51
53
61
66
44
44
–
134
48,50
49
–
47
94,96
96
87
89
87
101
56
93
82,83
65
98,154-156
90,91
97
FUEL LINE
FUEL STRAINER SCREEN
THROTTLE OPERATION
AIR CLEANER
CRANKCASE BREATHER
SPARK PLUG
VALVE CLEARANCE
ENGINE OIL
ENGINE OIL FILTER
DECOMPRESSOR SYSTEM
ENGINE IDLE SPEED
RADIATOR COOLANT
COOLING SYSTEM
SECONDARY AIR SUPPLY SYSTEM
TRANSMISSION OIL
DRIVE CHAIN
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER
BRAKE FLUID
BRAKE PADS WEAR
BRAKE SYSTEM
HEADLIGHT AIM
CLUTCH SYSTEM
SIDE STAND
SUSPENSION
SPARK ARRESTER
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS
WHEELS/TIRES
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
FREQUENCY
ITEMS
NOTE
mi
km
Month
100
150
1
600
1,000
6
1,200
2,000
12
I, L: every 300 mi (500 km) or 3 months
C: every 1,000 mi (1,600 km) or
every 100 operating hours
1,800
3,000
18
2,400
4,000
24
Refer
to
Page:
Whichever
Comes First
Initial
Maintenance
Regular Maintenance Interval
Should be serviced by your dealer, unless the owner has proper tools and service data and is mechanically qualified. Refer to the official Honda
Service Manual (page 168).
In the interest of safety, we recommended these items be serviced only by your dealer.
*
**
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE – REGULAR OFF-ROAD USE (NON-COMPETITION)
Summary of Maintenance Schedule Notes and
Procedures;
N
OTES:
1. Service more frequently when ridden in wet or
dusty conditions.
2. USA and Canada type only.
3. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires
mechanical skill.
Maintenance Schedule
28 Servicing Your Honda
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE – COMPETITION USE
All items should be checked before each competition event. See your dealer unless you are mechanically qualified and have the proper tools.
Damage from competition use is not covered by the Distributor’s Limited Warranty on your Honda.
Perform the Pre-ride Inspection (page 11) at each scheduled maintenance period.
I: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. L: Lubricate. R: Replace.
This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machine subjected to severe use require more frequent servicing.
NOTE: 1.Clean after every heat for dusty riding conditions.
2.Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.
3.Replace after the first break-in ride.
4.Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5.Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs and plates are replaced.
FREQUENCY
ITEMS
NOTE
About
2.5 hours
About
7.5 hours
About
15.0 hours
About
22.5 hours
About
30.0 hours
Ref. Page
THROTTLE OPERATION I 55
HOT START SYSTEM I 60
AIR FILTER (NOTE 1) C 51
CRANKCASE BREATHER I 53
SPARK PLUG I 61
RADIATOR COOLANT (NOTE 2) I 48
VALVE CLEARANCE/DECOMPRESSOR SYSTEM (NOTE 4) I 66
ENGINE OIL (NOTE 3) I R 44
ENGINE OIL FILTER (NOTE 3) R 44
ENGINE IDLE SPEED I 134
PISTON AND PISTON RINGS R76
PISTON PIN R76
TRANSMISSION OIL (NOTE 5) I R 47
COOLING SYSTEM I 49
DRIVE CHAIN I, L R 94 – 96
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER I 96
DRIVE CHAIN ROLLER I 96
DRIVE SPROCKET I 95
DRIVEN SPROCKET I 95
BRAKE FLUID (NOTE 2) I 87
BRAKE PADS WEAR I 89
BRAKE SYSTEM I 86
CLUTCH SYSTEM (NOTE 5) I 56
CONTROL CABLES I, L 97
EXHAUST PIPE/MUFFLER I 62
SUSPENSION I 82, 83
SWINGARM/SHOCK LINKAGE L 32
FORK OIL
FORK TUBE/SLIDER (NOTE 3) R 84
DAMPER R111
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS I 98, 154 – 156
WHEELS/TIRES I 90, 91
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS I97
General Competition Maintenance
Servicing Your Honda 29
General Competition Maintenance
Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using
the side stand, a workstand, or equivalent support.
When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with
the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten
them to the specified torque using a crisscross
pattern.
Use Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalent when
servicing your CRF.
Clean parts in non-flammable (high flash point)
cleaning solvent (such as kerosene) when
disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surface,
O-rings, and seals before reassembling. Grease
parts by coating or filling where specified.
After any engine disassembly, always install new
gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, piston pin clips, snap
rings, etc. when reassembling. After reassembly,
check all parts for proper installation and
operation.
All Pre-ride Inspection Items
Refer to Pre-ride Inspection on page 11.
General Competition Maintenance
30 Servicing Your Honda
Spark Plug
Some non-resistor plugs may cause ignition problems. Refer
to the recommendations elsewhere in this manual for specific
types so you will be sure to use the proper reach and heat
range. Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance
Schedule (pages 27, 28).
Air Cleaner
Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly because the volume
of air able to pass through it has a great effect on
performance. Both engine performance and long-term
durability may be affected by an air cleaner that has
deteriorated and allows dirt to pass through it. Inspect the air
cleaner closely each time it’s serviced for evidence of small
tears or seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and
ready to install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty
conditions may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing
it with a pre-serviced air cleaner between motos. Be careful
not to over oil the air cleaner. While it is important to oil the
air cleaner thoroughly, over oiling will cause an overall rich
running condition, probably more noticeable off idle and in
low-rpm performance. Follow the servicing instructions in
the Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or
an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner flange where
it contacts the air cleaner housing. Pro Honda White Lithium
Grease, or an equivalent, is handy for this because any dirt
that penetrates this sealing area will show up clearly
(page 51).
Use a Honda Genuine air cleaner or an equivalent air cleaner
specified for your model.
Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda air
cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may cause
premature engine wear or performance problems.
Engine Oil and Filter
Drain and replace the engine oil often to ensure the
greatest service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft.
Also replace engine oil filter often to ensure the greatest
service life. Frequent oil changes will also assure
consistent engine power and response (page 44).
Transmission Oil
Drain and replace the transmission oil often to ensure the
greatest service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent
changes will also assure consistent shifting and clutch
performance (page 47).
Air Cleaner Housing Sealing
Remove and reseal the air cleaner housing boot where it
connects to the air cleaner housing with Pro Honda Handgrip
Cement or equivalent if there is any doubt to its sealing
integrity. Inspect the air cleaner and air intake tract regularly
for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.
General Competition Maintenance
Servicing Your Honda 31
Handgrips
Always use Pro Honda Handgrip Cement or equivalent when
replacing handgrips.
Throttle Grip
Align the index mark on the throttle grip with the edge of the
throttle cable guide. Left handlebar grip: Align the “ǻ” mark
on the left handlebar grip with the paint mark on the
handlebar.
Refer to the Honda Service Manual (page 168) for installation
instructions.
Fuel Filter
Periodically drain the fuel from the fuel tank, remove and clean
the fuel valve and fuel filter. Replace the fuel valve O-ring if
there are any signs of damage or deterioration (page 42).
Cylinder
Put a little grease on the cylinder mounting dowels to prevent
corrosion from dissimilar metals. The tolerances are extremely
tight, so it’s important to keep these dowels absolutely clean
(page 76).
Fuel Contamination
Refer to Fuel System, in your Owner’s Manual (page 41).
Check the fuel lines for deterioration, damage, or leakage.
Replace the fuel lines, if necessary.
Periodically drain the fuel from the fuel tank, remove and
clean the fuel valve and fuel filter. Replace the fuel valve
O-ring if there are any signs of damage or deterioration
(page 42).
Loosen the carburetor drain screw and examine the fuel that
flows out of the float bowl. If you notice anything in the
fuel, such as water or dirt, remove the float bowl and
inspect its contents (page 131).
For maximum efficiency, drain and replace fuel that has
been in the fuel tank for more than a month.
Gaskets
Always use new gaskets when reassembling components.
For added security, you may choose to bind the handgrips to
the handlebar and throttle pipe with safety wires to prevent the
possibility of them loosening. Position the twisted wire ends
away from your palms and be sure to bend the wire ends well
into the handgrip rubber so they will not snag your glove.
Throttle Control
Remove the throttle control every few rides, clean the inside
of the throttle pipe and handlebar thoroughly. Inspect the cable
carefully for kinks or other damage that may restrict throttle
control in any way. Move the handlebar from lock to lock to
be sure there is no cable interference. Make certain the throttle
operation is perfect after servicing and inspecting.
Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts
Make sure the engine mounting bolts and nuts are tightened
to the proper torque specification (page 155). For added peace
of mind, remove the nuts, clean the threads, and apply Pro
Honda Hondalock or an equivalent before torquing the nuts.
Electrical Connectors
Clean electrical connectors and wrap them with electrical
tape to reduce the possibility of unwanted disconnections,
water shorts or corrosion. For additional corrosion
protection, apply Pro Honda Dielectric Grease to all
electrical connections.
Battery
Electrical accessories use current from the battery – even
when the engine is off.
Limited operation also allows the battery to discharge. If
you have electrical accessories on your CRF – or do not
ride frequently, we recommend that you charge the battery
frequently (see Battery Charging, page 100).
If you do not expect to ride your CRF for at least two
weeks, we recommend you remove the battery – or at least
disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first).
General Competition Maintenance
32 Servicing Your Honda
GREASE
GREASE
Suspension Linkage Lubrication
Disassemble, clean, inspect and lubricate all suspension linkage
pivot bearings with grease after each 7.5 hours of running time
in order to maintain proper suspension performance and
minimize component wear.
Swingarm Pivot Lubrication
Clean, inspect and lubricate the swingarm and suspension
linkage pivots with grease. Be sure all of the dust seals are in
good condition.
Swingarm
Do not attempt to weld or otherwise repair a damaged
swingarm. Welding will weaken the swingarm.
Footpegs
Worn footpeg teeth can be repaired by filing the grooves
between the teeth with a triangular-shaped file.
Be aware that filing them too sharp will reduce boot sole
lifespan. Sharpen only the points of the teeth. Filing the
grooves deeper will weaken the footpegs. Be sure the pegs
are free to pivot freely and that the pivot pin retaining cotter
pins are in good condition.
Fuse
Check the fuse before looking elsewhere for the cause of an
electrical problem.
Brake Fluid Replacement
Refer to Brake Pad Wear in your Owner’s Manual, page 89.
Brake Caliper Inspection: Be sure both the front and rear
calipers are able to move freely on the caliper bracket pins.
Check pad thickness periodically and replace the pads when
minimum thickness is reached. If the brakes fade when they are
hot, inspect the pads for glazing or damage, and replace if
necessary.
Brake Fluid Replacement: Replace the hydraulic fluid in the
brake system every 2 years. Replace the fluid more frequently
if you subject your brakes to severe use. Heavy braking heats
the brake fluid and it may deteriorate sooner than expected.
Any type of riding, that requires frequent use of the brakes,
such as in tight woods, can shorten the service life of brake
fluid.
Spokes
Check spoke tension frequently between the first few rides.
As the spokes, spoke nuts and rim contact points seat-in, the
spokes may need to be retightened. Once past this initial
seating-in period, the spokes should hold their tension. Still,
be sure your race maintenance program includes checking
spoke tension and overall wheel condition on a regular basis
(page 90).
Nuts, Bolts, Etc
Application of a thread locking agent to essential fasteners
offers added assurance and security. Remove the nuts, clean
the threads of both the nuts and bolts, apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent and tighten to the specified torque.
Fork Oil/Performance
Disassemble, clean and inspect the fork and replace the oil
regularly. Contamination due to the tiny metal particles
produced from the normal action of the fork, as well as
normal oil breakdown, will deteriorate the performance of
the suspension. Refer to the Honda Service Manual
(page 168). Use only Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W (U.S.A.
only) or equivalent which contains special additives to
assure maximum performance of your CRF’s front
suspension.
Steering Head Bearings
Periodically clean, inspect and regrease the steering head
bearings — especially if wet, muddy or extremely dusty
courses are encountered often.
Use urea based multi-purpose grease designed for high
temperature, high pressure performance (example:
EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by KYODO YUSHI, Japan
or Shell Stamina EP2 or equivalent).
Frame
Because your CRF is a high-performance machine, the
frame should not be overlooked as part of your overall
competition maintenance program. Periodically inspect the
frame closely for possible cracking or other damage. It
makes good racing sense.
Bleed Hole
After every race, check the bleed hole, located just below the
water pump cover on the right crankcase cover. Clean away
any clogged dirt or sand, if necessary. Check for signs of seal
leakage. A small amount of “weeping” from the bleed hole is
normal.
Before & After Competition Maintenance
Servicing Your Honda 33
Before & After Competition Maintenance
After practice or between motos you have a chance
to make additional checks and adjustments.
• Clean accumulated dirt from under the fenders
and off the wheels, suspension components,
handgrips, controls, and footpegs. A stiff,
nylon parts cleaning brush works well.
• Check tire air pressure.
• Check spoke tension and rim lock security.
• Check sprocket bolt and nut security.
• Clean the sides of the drive chain with a stiff,
nylon parts-cleaning brush. Lubricate and
adjust the chain as necessary.
Do not perform maintenance while engine is
running. Injury to your fingers or hands may result.
• After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster
index marks (1) are in the same position on
each side. This will ensure that the rear wheel
is in proper alignment and allow maximum
performance from the rear disc brake.
Maintaining proper wheel alignment will also
extend brake pad wear.
• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and
use the pressure release screws (2) to release the
built-up pressure (in excess of normal
atmospheric pressure: 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm
2
)) in
the fork tubes. This pressure is caused by normal
fork action while riding. (If you are riding at
altitude, remember that fork pressure of 0 at sea
level will increase as elevation increases.)
It is important to the long term performance of
your CRF to practice a consistent maintenance
program. Right after the event is a good time to
begin your next maintenance cycle.
After Race Lubrication
Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the
drive sprocket and any steel portions of the chassis
or engine where the paint has worn away.
This will prevent rusting of the exposed metal.
Apply rust-inhibiting oil more heavily if the event
was particularly wet or muddy. Take care to avoid
spraying any oil near the brake pads or the brake
discs.
Clean and lubricate the drive chain (page 96).
Be sure the chain is wiped clean and is dry before
lubricating the chain.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers between
the chain and sprocket.
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance
(1) chain adjuster index marks
(2) pressure release screw
(1)
(2)
After Competition Maintenance
34 Servicing Your Honda
Before & After Competition Maintenance
Routine Cleaning
If your CRF is only slightly dirty, it is best to clean
it by hand with the aid of a stiff bristled nylon
brush and some clean rags.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers between
the chain and sprocket.
A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes
are available from variety, drug, food, and
hardware stores. Some of these brushes are
extremely useful in removing dirt from the many
tight contours of the metal pieces of your CRF.
Avoid using stiff, abrasive brushes on the plastic or
rubber parts.
If your CRF was exposed to sea air or salt water,
rinse it as soon as possible after the event, dry it,
and apply a spray lubricant to all metal parts.
If you decide to wash your CRF or use cleaners,
refer to Appearance Care (page 102).
Maintenance Component Locations
Servicing Your Honda 35
Maintenance Component Locations
clutch lever
front brake fluid reservoir
front brake lever
throttle grip
radiator cap
fuel fill cap
hot start lever
spark plug
throttle stop screw
(engine idle speed)
air cleaner
crankcase breather
tubes
drive chain
transmission
oil drain bolt
engine oil filter
front brake caliper
engine oil fill
cap/dipstick
rear suspension
spring pre-load
adjuster
choke knob
battery
coolant reserve tank
engine oil
drain bolt
spark arrester
front suspension
compression damping
adjuster
front suspension rebound
damping adjuster
transmission
oil check bolt
rear brake
pedal
rear brake
fluid reservoir
rear brake
caliper
rear suspension
rebound damping
adjuster
transmission oil
fill cap
main fuse
rear suspension high speed
damping adjuster
rear suspension low speed
damping adjuster
Seat Removal
36 Servicing Your Honda
Seat Removal
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Removal
1. Remove the seat mounting bolts (1).
2. Remove the seat (2) by sliding it backward.
Installation
1. Install the seat while aligning the seat front
prong (3) with the seat bracket (4) and seat rear
prong (5) with the tab (6) of the frame.
2. Install and tighten the seat mounting bolts to
the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(1) seat mounting bolts (2) seat
(2)
(1)
(3) seat front prong
(4) seat bracket
(5) seat rear prong
(6) tab
(3)
(5)
(6)
(4)
Fuel Tank Removal
Servicing Your Honda 37
Fuel Tank Removal
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Removal
1. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
2. Remove the seat (page 36).
3. Remove the shroud A bolts/collars (1).
4. Remove the shroud B bolts (2) and shrouds (3).
5. Pull the breather tube (4) out of steering stem
nut.
6. Unhook and remove the fuel tank band (5).
7. Unhook the air cleaner cover rubber (6).
8. Remove the fuel tank bolt (7).
9. Disconnect the fuel line (8) from the fuel valve
(9). The fuel line leading to the carburetor must
be disconnected, not the fuel line leading to the
fuel tank.
10. Remove the fuel valve bolt (10) and fuel valve.
11. Remove the fuel tank.
(1) shroud A bolts/collars
(2) shroud B bolts
(3) shrouds
(3)
(2)
(1)
(4) breather tube
(5) fuel tank band
(6) air cleaner cover rubber
(7) fuel tank bolt
(4)
(7)
(5)
(6)
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive.
You can be burned or seriously injured
when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(8) fuel line (10) fuel valve bolt
(9) fuel valve
(9)
(8)
(10)
Fuel Tank Removal
38 Servicing Your Honda
Installation
1. Install the fuel tank on the frame.
2. Install the fuel valve (1) and tighten fuel valve
bolt (2).
3. Connect the fuel line (3) to the fuel valve.
4. Install and tighten the fuel tank bolt (4).
5. Hook the air cleaner cover rubber (5).
6. Install the fuel tank band (6).
7. Put the breather tube (7) in the steering stem
nut.
8. Install the shrouds (8) and shroud B bolts (9).
Tighten the shroud B bolts to the specified
torque:
3.7 lbf·ft (5 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)
9. Install the shroud A bolts/collars (10).
10. Install the seat (page 36).
(1) fuel valve (3) fuel line
(2) fuel valve bolt
(4) fuel tank bolt (6) fuel tank band
(5) air cleaner cover rubber (7) breather tube
(1)
(3)
(2)
(7)
(4)
(6)
(5)
(8) shroud
(9) shroud B bolts
(10) shroud A bolts/collars
(8)
(9)
(10)
Subframe Upright Position
Servicing Your Honda 39
Subframe Upright Position
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
The subframe may be adjusted to an upright
position to permit servicing of the rear suspension.
Upright Position
1. Remove the right side cover bolt (1), collar (2),
seat mounting bolt (3) and right side cover (4).
2. Open the air cleaner housing cover (5) by
turning the quick fastener (6)
counterclockwise and remove the left side
cover bolt (7), collar (8), seat mounting bolt (9)
and left side cover (10).
3. Remove the seat (11) (page 36).
4. Remove the muffler (page 62).
5. Remove the wire band (12).
6. Loosen the screw (13) on the air cleaner
connecting tube clamp (14).
7. Loosen the subframe mounting upper bolt (15)
and remove the subframe mounting lower bolts
(16).
8. Lift the subframe (17) as shown.
Tighten the subframe mounting upper bolt to
the specified torque:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
(1) right side cover bolt (3) seat mounting bolt
(2) collar (4) right side cover
(5) air cleaner housing cover (9) seat mounting bolt
(6) quick fastener (10) left side cover
(7) left side cover bolt (11) seat
(8) collar
(3)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(10)
(11)
(9)
(8)
(12) wire band
(13) screw
(14) air cleaner connecting tube clamp
(12)
(14)
(13)
(15) subframe mounting upper bolt
(16) subframe mounting lower bolts
(17) subframe
(16)
(15)
90º
(17)
40 Servicing Your Honda
Subframe Upright Position
Installation
1. Loosen the subframe mounting upper bolt (1).
2. Loosely attach the lower ends of the subframe
(2) to the mainframe while connecting the air
cleaner connecting tube to the carburetor.
Install the subframe mounting lower bolts (3).
Tighten the subframe mounting lower bolts
and subframe mounting upper bolt to the
specified torque:
upper bolt: 22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
lower bolts: 36 lbf·ft (49 N·m, 5.0 kgf·m)
3. Check the hoses (4) for slack.
4. Tighten the screw (5) on the air cleaner
connecting tube clamp (6).
5. Install the wire band (7).
6. Install the muffler (page 63).
7. Install the seat (8) (page 36).
8. Install the left side cover (9), seat mounting
bolt (10), collar (11) and left side cover bolt
(12). Close the air cleaner housing cover (13)
and turn the quick fastener (14) clockwise.
9. Install the right side cover (15), seat mounting
bolt (16), collar (17) and right side cover bolt (18).
10. Tighten the seat mounting bolts to the
specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(1) subframe mounting upper bolt
(2) subframe
(3) subframe mounting lower bolts
(4) hoses
(3)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(5) screw
(6) air cleaner connecting tube clamp
(7) wire band
(6)
(5)
(7)
(8) seat (12) left side cover bolt
(9) left side cover (13) air cleaner housing cover
(10) seat mounting bolt (14) quick fastener
(11) collar
(15) right side cover (17) collar
(16) seat mounting bolt (18) right side cover bolt
(8)
(13)
(14)
(12)
(11)
(10)
(9)
(16)
(18)
(17)
(15)
Fuel System
Servicing Your Honda 41
Fuel System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Use only unleaded fuel in your Honda. If you ride
your Honda in a country where leaded fuel might
be available, take precautions to use only unleaded
fuel.
Your engine is designed to use any unleaded
gasoline that has a pump octane number of 91 or
higher. Gasoline pumps at service stations
normally display the pump octane number. For
information on the use of oxygenated fuels, see
page 160.
Use of lower octane gasoline can cause persistent
“pinging” or “spark knock” (a louder rapping
noise) which, if severe, can lead to engine damage.
(Light pinging experienced while operating under
a heavy load, such as climbing a hill, is no cause
for concern.)
If pinging or spark knock occurs at a steady engine
speed under normal load, change brands of
gasoline. If pinging or spark knock persists,
consult your dealer.
Never use stale or contaminated gasoline. Avoid
getting dirt, dust or water in the fuel tank.
Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.93 US gal (7.3 ℓ)
Reserve Capacity: 0.42 US gal (1.6 ℓ)
1. To open the fuel fill cap (1), pull the breather
tube (2) out of the steering stem nut (3). Turn
the fuel fill cap counterclockwise and remove
it.
2. Add fuel until the level reaches the bottom of
the filler neck. Avoid overfilling the tank.
There should be no fuel in the filler neck.
3. Close the fuel fill cap by turning the cap
clockwise and insert the breather tube in the
steering stem nut.
Fuel Recommendation
Type Unleaded
Pump Octane Number 91 (or higher)
Refueling Procedure
(1) fuel fill cap (3) steering stem nut
(2) breather tube
(2)
(1)
(3)
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
42 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
1. Check for leaks.
2. Check the fuel lines (1) for cracks,
deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace the
fuel line, if necessary.
3. Check for interference between the frame and
tank and adjust if necessary.
The fuel filter is mounted on the bottom left side of
the fuel tank. Dirt accumulated in the filter will
restrict the flow of the fuel to the carburetor.
Therefore, the fuel filter should be serviced
frequently.
To service the fuel filter:
1. Remove the fuel tank (page 37).
2. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank into an
approved gasoline container. Disconnect the
fuel valve (1) and fuel lines (2).
3. Remove the fuel joint (3) from fuel tank by
removing the bolts (4).
4. Wash the fuel filter (5) in high flash-point
cleaning solvent.
5. Check that the O-ring (6) is in good condition
and install it onto the fuel joint. Install the fuel
filter in the fuel tank by tightening the bolts to
the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
Attach the fuel valve and fuel lines.
6. Install the fuel tank (page 38) and refill the
fuel.
Turn the fuel valve to ON or RES; check for
fuel leaks.
Fuel Line
(1) fuel lines
(1)
(1)
Fuel Filter
(1) fuel valve (3) fuel joint
(2) fuel lines (4) bolts
(4)
(1)
(3)
(2)
(5) fuel filter (6) O-ring
(6)
(5)
Engine Oil
Servicing Your Honda 43
Engine Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the engine. Even the best oil wears
out. Changing oil helps get rid of dirt and deposits.
Operating the engine with old or dirty oil can
damage your engine. Running the engine with
insufficient oil can cause serious damage to the
engine.
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving or resource conserving on the
circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives.
Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine oils
displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or
“resource conserving” service label on the
container. They may affect lubrication.
• Oil is a major factor affecting the performance
and service life of the engine.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart may
be used when the average temperature in your
riding area is within the indicated range.
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the oil
container.
For example, the following label shows the MA
classification.
Oil Recommendation
API
classification
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving or resource
conserving on the circular
API service label
viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W-30
JASO T 903 standard MA
suggested oil* Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke
Oil (USA & Canada), or
Honda 4-stroke oil, or an
equivalent motorcycle oil*
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
(1)
(2)
44 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Oil
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
engine.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1),
wipe it clean, and insert the engine oil fill
cap/dipstick without screwing it in. Remove
the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
5. Check that the oil level is between the upper
(2) and lower (3) level marks on the engine oil
fill cap/dipstick.
• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark,
you do not have to add oil.
• If the oil is below or near the lower level
mark and add the recommended oil until the
upper level mark. (Do not overfill)
Reinstall the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
Repeat steps 1 – 5.
6. Check that the O-ring (4) is in good condition
and replace it if necessary.
7. Reinsert the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
8. Check for oil leaks.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1)
from the left crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch
the oil. Then remove the engine oil drain bolt
(2) and sealing washer (3).
5. With the engine stop button pushed, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately 5 times to
drain the engine oil completely.
6. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the engine oil drain bolt threads and tighten it
with a new sealing washer to the specified
torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 143).
NOTICE
Improperly disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
7. It is recommended to replace the oil and filter
about every 15.0 hours. However, if you
replace only the oil before the recommended
interval, see page 28.
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) upper level mark
(3) lower level mark
(4) O-ring
(1)
(
4)
(2)
(3)
(1)
Changing Engine Oil & Filter
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) engine oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer
(1)
(3)
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 45
Engine Oil
8. Remove the left engine guard bolt/washer (4)
and left engine guard (5).
9. Remove the oil filter cover bolts (6) and oil
filter cover (7).
10. Remove the oil filter (8) and O-ring (9) from
the oil filter cover.
NOTICE
Using the wrong oil filter may result in leaks or
engine damage.
11. Apply grease to the filter side of the spring end,
then install the spring (10) into the new oil
filter.
12. Position the spring against the engine
crankcase and install a new oil filter with the
rubber seal (11) facing out, away from the
engine. You should see the “OUT-SIDE” mark
(12) on the filter body, near the rubber seal.
Use a new Honda Genuine oil filter or a filter
of equal quality specified for your model.
NOTICE
If the oil filter is not installed properly, it will
cause serious engine damage.
13. Apply engine oil to a new O-ring and install it
to the oil filter cover.
14. Install the oil filter cover being careful not to
damage the O-ring, then tighten the oil filter
cover bolts to the specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
15. Install the left engine guard and bolt/washer,
then tighten them.
16. Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil.
17. Install the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
18. Check the engine oil level by following the
steps in Checking & Adding Oil (page 44).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 143).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
(4) left engine guard bolt/washer
(5) left engine guard
(6) oil filter cover bolts
(7) oil filter cover
(8) oil filter
(9) oil filter cover O-ring
(10) spring
(11) rubber seal
(12) “OUT-SIDE” mark
(5)
(4)
(10)
(12)
(9)
(8)
(11)
(7)
(6)
Capacity: 0.73 US qt (0.69 ℓ)
after draining and filter change
0.70 US qt (0.66 ℓ)
after draining
Transmission Oil
46 Servicing Your Honda
Transmission Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the transmission and clutch. Even
the best oil wears out. Changing oil helps get rid of
dirt and deposits. Operating the engine with old or
dirty oil can damage your engine.
Running the engine with insufficient oil can cause
serious damage to the engine and transmission.
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving or resource conserving on the
circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives.
Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum
additives. They may adversely affect clutch
operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine oils
displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or
“resource conserving” service label on the
container. They may affect lubrication and
clutch performance.
• Oil is a major factor affecting the performance
and service life of the transmission and clutch.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart may
be used when the average temperature in your
riding area is within the indicated range.
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the oil
container. For example, the following label shows
the MA classification.
Oil Recommendation
API classification
(4-stroke engine oil
only)
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving or resource
conserving on the circular
API service label
viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W-30
JASO T903
standard
MA
others without friction modifiers
such as molybdenum
additives
suggested oil* Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
(USA & Canada), or Honda
4-stroke oil, or an equivalent
motorcycle oil*
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
(1)
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 47
Transmission Oil
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
clutch and transmission.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1), oil
check bolt (2) and sealing washer (3) from the
right crankcase cover. A small amount of oil
should flow out of the oil check bolt hole.
Allow any excess oil to flow out of the oil
check bolt hole.
If no oil flows out of the oil check bolt hole,
add oil slowly through the transmission oil fill
hole until oil start to flow out of the oil check
bolt hole.
Tighten the oil check bolt with a new sealing
washer and transmission oil fill cap. Repeat
step 1 – 4.
5. After inspection the oil level or adding oil,
tighten the oil check bolt to the specified
torque:
Oil Check Bolt: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
6. Check that the O-ring on the transmission oil
fill cap is in the good condition and replace it if
necessary.
7. Install the transmission oil fill cap securely.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1) from
the right crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch
the oil. Then remove the transmission oil drain
bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the transmission oil drain bolt threads and
tighten it with a new sealing washer to the
specified torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
6. Fill the crankcase with recommended oil.
Capacity: 0.71 US qt (0.67 ℓ) after draining
7. Check the transmission oil level by following
the steps in Checking & Adding Oil (this page).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 143).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) transmission oil fill cap (3) sealing washer
(2) oil check bolt
(1)
(2)
(3)
Replacing Transmission Oil
(1) transmission oil fill cap
(2) transmission oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer
(1)
(3)
(2)
Coolant
48 Servicing Your Honda
Coolant
Your CRF’s liquid cooling system dissipates
engine heat through the coolant jacket that
surrounds the cylinder and cylinder head.
Maintaining the coolant will allow the cooling
system to work properly and prevent freezing,
overheating, and corrosion.
Use Pro Honda HP Coolant or an equivalent high
quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing
corrosion protection inhibitors specifically
recommended for use in aluminum engines.
Check the antifreeze container label.
Use only distilled water as a part of the coolant
solution. Water that is high in mineral content or
salt may be harmful to the aluminum engine.
NOTICE
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause
premature wear of water seals or blockage of
radiator passages. Using tap water may cause
engine damage.
The factory provides a 50/50 solution of antifreeze
and water in this motorcycle. This coolant solution
is recommended for most operating temperatures
and provides good corrosion protection.
Decreasing the concentration of antifreeze to less
than 40% will not provide proper corrosion
protection.
Increasing the concentration of antifreeze is not
recommended because it decreases cooling system
performance. Higher concentrations of antifreeze
(up to 60%) should only be used to provide
additional protection against freezing.
Check the cooling system frequently during
freezing weather.
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
1. With the engine at normal operating
temperature, check the coolant level in the
reserve tank. It should be between the UPPER
(1) and LOWER (2) level marks.
If the reserve tank (3) is empty, or if coolant
loss is excessive, check for leaks and see your
dealer for repair.
2. Open the air cleaner housing cover (4) by
turning the quick fastener (5)
counterclockwise and remove the left side
cover bolt (6), collar (7), seat mounting bolt (8)
and left side cover (9).
3. Remove the reserve tank cap (10).
Always add coolant to the reserve tank.
Do not attempt to add coolant by removing the
radiator cap.
Coolant Recommendation
Checking & Adding Coolant
(1) UPPER level mark (3) reserve tank
(2) LOWER level mark
(3)
(1)
(2)
(4) air cleaner housing cover (7) collar
(5) quick fastener (8) seat mounting bolt
(6) left side cover bolt (9) left side cover
(10) reserve tank cap
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(4)
(10)
Servicing Your Honda 49
Coolant
4. Add coolant to the reserve tank as require to
bring the coolant level to the UPPER level
mark.
5. Install the reserve tank cap (10).
6. Install the left side cover (9), seat mounting
bolt (8), collar (7) and left side cover bolt (6).
Close the air cleaner housing cover (4) and turn
the quick fastener (5) clockwise.
Tighten the seat mounting bolt to the specified
torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
1. Check the cooling system for leaks (see the
Honda Service Manual for troubleshooting of
leaks).
2. Check the water hoses (1) for cracks,
deterioration, and radiator hose clamp for
looseness.
3. Check the radiator mount for looseness.
4. Make sure the siphon hose (2) is connected and
not clogged.
5. Check the radiator fins for clogging.
6. Check the bleed hole (3) below the water pump
cover (4) for leakage. Check for signs of seal
leakage. A small amount of “weeping” from
the bleed hole is normal. See the Honda Shop
Manual or consult your dealer for replacing the
mechanical seal or oil seal. Both seals should
be replaced at the same time.
(4) air cleaner housing cover
(5) quick fastener
(6) left side cover bolt
(7) collar
(8) seat mounting bolt
(9) left side cover
(10) reserve tank cap
(4)
(5)
(6)
(10)
(9)
(8)
(7)
Cooling System Inspection
(1) water hose
(2) siphon hose
(3) bleed hole
(4) water pump cover
(2)
(1)
(3)(4)
Coolant
50 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Coolant should be replaced by your dealer, unless
you have the proper tools and service data and are
mechanically qualified. Refer to the Honda
Service Manual (page 168).
To properly dispose of drained coolant, refer to
You & the Environment, page 143.
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
1. Remove the radiator cap (1).
2. Fill the system with the recommended coolant
through the filler opening up to filler neck.
Use a fresh recommended coolant mixture
(page 48).
Capacity:
1.27 US qt (1.20 ℓ) after disassembly
1.19 US qt (1.13 ℓ) after draining
3. Turn the quick fastener (2) counterclockwise
and open the air cleaner housing cover (3).
4. Remove the left side cover bolt (4), collar (5),
seat mounting bolt (6) and left side cover (7).
5. Remove the reserve tank cap (8) and fill the
reserve tank to the UPPER level line (9).
6. Bleed air front the system as follows:
• Shift the transmission into neutral. Start the
engine and let it idle 2-3 minutes.
• Snap the throttle three-four times to bleed air
from the system.
• Stop the engine and, if necessary, add
coolant up to the proper level. Reinstall the
radiator cap.
• Check the level of coolant in the reserve tank
and fill to the UPPER level if it is low.
NOTICE
If the radiator cap is not installed properly, it will
cause excessive coolant loss and may result in
overheating and engine damage.
7. Install the radiator reserve tank cap and left
side cover, and close the air cleaner housing
cover.
8. Install the seat mounting bolt and tighten it to
the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
Coolant Replacement
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
Coolant System Bleed Air
(1) radiator cap
(1)
(2) quick fastener (6) seat mounting bolt
(3) air cleaner housing cover (7) left side cover
(4) left side cover bolt (8) reserve tank cap
(5) collar (9) UPPER level line
(9)
(3)
(8)
(6)
(7)
(4)
(5)
(2)
Air Cleaner
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 51
Air Cleaner
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
The air cleaner uses polyurethane inner and outer
pieces which can’t be separated.
A dirty air cleaner will reduce engine power.
Proper air cleaner maintenance is very important
for off-road vehicles. A dirty, water-soaked, worn-
out, or defective air cleaner will allow dirt, dust,
mud, and other impurities to pass into the engine.
Service the air cleaner more frequently if you ride
in unusually wet or dusty areas. Your dealer can
help you determine the correct service interval for
your riding conditions.
Your CRF’s air cleaner has very specific
performance requirements. Use a new Honda
Genuine air cleaner specified for your model or an
air cleaner of equal quality.
NOTICE
Using the wrong air cleaner may result in
premature engine wear.
Proper air cleaner maintenance can prevent
premature engine wear or damage, expensive
repairs, low engine power, poor gas mileage, and
spark plug fouling.
NOTICE
Improper or lack of proper air cleaner
maintenance can cause poor performance and
premature engine wear.
1. To open the air cleaner housing cover (1), turn
the quick fastener (2) counterclockwise.
2. Remove the air cleaner element retaining bolt
(3) and air cleaner element assembly (4) while
turning it as shown.
3. Pull the air cleaner element (5) out from the air
cleaner holder (6).
4. Wash the air cleaner in clean non-flammable
cleaning solvent. Then wash in hot, soapy
water, rinse well, and allow to dry thoroughly.
The air cleaner element is made in two pieces:
inner and outer, which cannot be separated.
5. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.
6. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly. After
drying, apply 1.7 US oz (50 cm
3
) of clean Pro
Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent air
cleaner oil from the inside of the element.
Place the element into a plastic bag and spread
the oil evenly by hand.
Cleaning
(1) air cleaner housing cover
(2) quick fastener
(3) air cleaner element retaining bolt
(4) air cleaner element assembly
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(5) air cleaner element (8) hole
(6) air cleaner holder (9) air cleaner tab
(7) tab
(9)
(7)
(5)
(6)
(8)
52 Servicing Your Honda
Air Cleaner
7. Assemble the air cleaner element and holder.
Install the tab (7) of the holder in the hole (8)
of the air cleaner tab (9).
8. Apply 0.05 – 0.19 oz (1.5 – 5.5 g) of Pro Honda
White Lithium Grease or equivalent to the air
cleaner housing contact area of the air cleaner
element.
9. Install the air cleaner element assembly into
the air cleaner housing.
10. Carefully position the sealing flange of the
element to prevent dirt intrusion.
Align the access tab (10) of the air cleaner
element with the “ǻ” mark (11) of the air
cleaner housing by rotating the air cleaner
element assembly counterclockwise. Install
and tighten the air cleaner element retaining
bolt (3) securely.
NOTICE
Improper installation of the air cleaner element
assembly may allow dirt and dust to enter the
engine and cause rapid wear of the piston rings
and cylinder.
11. Close the air cleaner housing cover (1) and turn
the quick fastener (2) clockwise.
(3) air cleaner element retaining bolt
(10) access tab
(11) “ǻ” mark
(10)
(11)
(3)
(1) air cleaner housing cover
(2) quick fastener
(1)
(2)
Crankcase Breather
Servicing Your Honda 53
Crankcase Breather
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Service more frequently if your CRF is ridden in
the rain or often at full throttle.
Service the breather if you can see deposits in the
transparent section of the drain tube.
1. Remove the crankcase breather tube plug (1)
from the crankcase breather tube (2) and drain
the deposits into a suitable container.
2. Reinstall the crankcase breather tube plug.
Draining
(1) crankcase breather tube plug
(2) crankcase breather tube
(2)
(1)
Throttle
54 Servicing Your Honda
Throttle
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay: 1/8 – 3/16 in (3 – 5 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Upper Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
upper adjuster.
1. Pull the dust cover (2) back.
2. Loosen the upper lock nut (3).
3. Turn the upper adjuster (4).
Turning the adjuster in direction (–) will
decrease freeplay and turning it in direction (+)
will increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Return the dust cover to its normal position.
5. After adjustment, check for smooth rotation of
the throttle grip from fully closed to fully open
in all steering positions.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or
the correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in and back out one turn.
Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Install the dust cover and make the adjustment
with the lower adjuster.
Lower Adjustment
The lower adjuster is used for major freeplay
adjustment, such as after replacing the throttle
cables or removing the carburetor. It is also used if
you can not get the proper adjustment with the
upper adjuster.
1. Remove the fuel tank (page 37).
2. Loosen the lower lock nut (5).
3. Turn the lower adjuster (6) in direction (–) to
decrease freeplay, and in direction (+) to
increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
5. Operate the throttle grip to ensure that it
functions smoothly and returns completely.
6. Install the fuel tank (page 38).
If you can’t get the freeplay within the specified
range, contact your dealer.
Throttle Freeplay
(1) freeplay
(2) dust cover (+) increase
(3) upper lock nut (–) decrease
(4) upper adjuster
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(+)
(–)
(5) lower lock nut (+) increase
(6) lower adjuster (–) decrease
(5)
(6)
(+)
(–)
Throttle
Servicing Your Honda 55
1. Check that the throttle assembly is positioned
properly and the securing bolts are tight.
2. Check for smooth rotation of the throttle (1)
from fully open to fully closed in all steering
positions. If there is a problem, see your dealer.
3. Inspect the condition of the throttle cables
from the throttle grip down to the carburetor.
If the cable is kinked or chafed, have it
replaced.
4. Check the cables for tension or stress in all
steering positions.
5. Lubricate the cables with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
rust and corrosion.
Throttle Inspection
(1) throttle
(1)
Clutch System
56 Servicing Your Honda
Clutch System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Improper freeplay adjustment can cause premature
clutch wear.
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever (1) freeplay
after the clutch cable is disconnected.
Cable End Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
clutch cable end adjuster.
Turning the cable end adjuster (2) in direction (+)
will increase freeplay and turning it in direction (–)
will decrease freeplay.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the
correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in and back out one turn and
make the adjustment with the integral cable
adjuster.
Integral Cable Adjustment
The integral cable adjuster is used if the cable end
adjuster is threaded out near its limit, or if the
correct freeplay cannot be obtained.
1. Turn the cable end adjuster in direction (+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out 5 turns.
2. Loosen the lock nut (3).
3. Turn the integral cable adjuster (4) to obtain
the specified freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut. Check the freeplay.
5. Start the engine, pull the clutch lever in, and
shift into gear. Make sure the engine does not
stall and the motorcycle does not creep.
Gradually release the clutch lever and open the
throttle. Your CRF should move smoothly and
accelerate gradually.
If you can’t get proper adjustment, or the clutch
does not work properly, the cable may be kinked or
worn, or the clutch discs may be worn.
Inspect the clutch discs and plates (page 58).
Clutch Freeplay
(1) clutch lever
(1)
(2) cable end adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay
(–)
(+)
(2)
(3) lock nut (+) increase
(4) integral cable adjuster (–) decrease
(–)
(+)
(3)
(4)
Servicing Your Honda 57
Clutch System
• Check that the clutch lever assembly is
positioned properly (the end of the holder (1)
aligned with the paint mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
• Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of
wear. If necessary, have it replaced.
• Lubricate the clutch cable with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
wear and corrosion.
1. Check for smooth clutch lever operation. If
necessary, lubricate the clutch lever pivot or
clutch cable.
2. Check the clutch cable for deterioration, kinks,
or damage.
1. Drain the transmission oil (page 47).
2. Remove the rear brake pedal (1) by removing
the pin (2) and pivot bolt (3), washer (4) and
dust seals (5).
3. Remove the five clutch cover bolts (6) and
clutch cover (7).
4. Remove the five clutch spring bolts and clutch
springs (8).
Loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three progressive steps.
5. Remove the clutch pressure plate (9).
6. Remove the clutch lifter assembly (10) and
clutch lifter rod (11).
7. Remove the eight clutch discs, seven clutch
plates, judder spring and spring seat (12).
Turn the lifter bearing plate of the clutch lifter
bearing with your finger. The bearing plate
should turn smoothly and quietly. Discard the
clutch lifter if the bearing plate does not turn
smoothly.
Other Inspections & Lubrication
(1) holder (2) paint mark
Clutch Operation
(2)
(1)
Clutch Cover/Disc/Plate Removal
(1) rear brake pedal (4) washer
(2) pin (5) dust seals
(3) pivot bolt
(6) clutch cover bolts (7) clutch cover
(2)
(4) (5)
(1)
(3)
(6)
(7)
(8) clutch spring bolts/clutch springs
(9) clutch pressure plate
(10) clutch lifter assembly
(11) clutch lifter rod
(12) clutch discs, clutch plates, judder spring and spring
seat
(9)
(8)
(10)
(11)
(12)
58 Servicing Your Honda
Clutch System
Replace the clutch discs (1) if they show signs of
scoring or discoloration.
Measure the thickness of each clutch disc.
Service Limit: 0.112 in (2.85 mm)
Replace the clutch discs and clutch plates as a set.
Check the clutch plate (2) for excessive warpage or
discoloration.
Check the plate warpage on a surface plate using a
feeler gauge.
Measure the thickness of the clutch plates.
Service Limit: 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Replace the clutch discs and plates as a set.
Measure the free length of each spring.
Service Limit: 1.50 in (38.0 mm)
Replace the clutch springs as a set if any one of
them is beyond the service limit or if the clutch
plates have been burn/heat discolored.
1. Install the spring seat (1) and judder spring (2)
onto the clutch center as shown.
Coat the clutch discs (3) and plates (4) with
engine oil.
2. Install the clutch disc A (larger I.D. disc) (5)
onto the clutch outer.
Stack the seven clutch plates and seven clutch
discs alternately.
3. Apply engine oil to the clutch lifter assembly
(6) and clutch lifter rod (7) contact surface.
Insert the clutch lifter rod into the mainshaft.
4. Install the clutch lifter assembly onto the rod.
Clutch Disc/Plate Inspection
(1) clutch disc
(2) clutch plate
(1)
(2)
Clutch Spring Inspection
(1) clutch spring
(1)
Clutch Disc/Plate Installation
(1) spring seat (4) clutch plates
(2) judder spring (5) clutch disc A
(3) clutch discs
(6) clutch lifter assembly (7) clutch lifter rod
(3)
(5)
(2)
(4)
(1)
(6)
(7)
Servicing Your Honda 59
Clutch System
5. Install the clutch pressure plate (8).
6. Install the five clutch springs and clutch spring
bolts (9).
7. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two
or three steps to the specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
8. Apply engine oil to a new O-ring (10) and
install it in the groove of the clutch cover (11).
9. Install the clutch cover by tightening the clutch
cover bolts to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
10. Apply grease to the rear brake pedal pivot bolt
sliding surface.
11. Install the rear brake pedal (12), dust seals
(13), washer (14) and pivot bolt (15) and
tighten the pivot bolt to the specified torque:
27 lbf·ft (36 N·m, 3.7 kgf·m)
Connect the brake pedal return spring (16) if it
was removed.
12. Insert the pin (17).
13. Fill the crankcase with transmission oil
(page 47).
(8) clutch pressure plate
(9) clutch spring bolts/clutch springs
(10) O-ring (11) clutch cover
(8)
(9)
(11)
(10)
(12) rear brake pedal (15) pivot bolt
(13) dust seals (16) return spring
(14) washer (17) pin
(17)
(12)
(15)
(16)
(14)
(13)
Hot Start Lever
60 Servicing Your Honda
Hot Start Lever
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Inspection
Check freeplay:
1/16 – 1/8 in (2 – 3 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Adjustment
Adjustments can be made with the cable end
adjuster.
Loosen the lock nut (3) and turn the adjuster (4).
Turning the adjuster in direction (+) will increase
freeplay and turning it in direction (–) will
decrease freeplay. After adjustment, tighten the
lock nut.
Hot Start Lever Freeplay
(1) hot start lever
(2) freeplay
(1)
(2)
(3) lock nut (+) increase
(4) adjuster (–) decrease
(4)
(3)
Spark Plug
Servicing Your Honda 61
Spark Plug
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
The recommended standard spark plug is
satisfactory for most racing conditions.
Use only the recommended type of spark plugs in
the recommended heat range.
NOTICE
Using a spark plug with an improper heat range or
incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Using a non-resistor spark plug may cause
ignition problems.
This motorcycle uses spark plug that have an
iridium tip in center electrode and a platinum tip in
side electrode.
Be sure to observe the following when servicing
the spark plug.
• Do not clean the spark plug. If an electrode is
contaminated with accumulated objects or dirt,
replace the spark plug with a new one.
• To check the spark plug gap, use only a “wire-
type feeler gauge”. To prevent damaging the
iridium tip of the center electrode and platinum
tip of the side electrode, never use a “leaf-type
feeler gauge”.
• Do not adjust the spark plug gap. If the gap is out
of specification, replace the spark plug with a
new one.
1. Remove the seat and fuel tank (pages 36, 37).
2. Disconnect the direct ignition coil (1).
3. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug
base.
4. Remove the spark plug (2).
5. Check the electrodes for wear or deposits, the
sealing gasket (3) for damage, and the insulator
for cracks. Replace if you detect them.
6. Check the spark plug gap (4), using a wire-type
feeler gauge. If the gap is out of specifications,
replace the plug with a new one.
The recommended spark plug gap is:
0.031 – 0.035 in (0.8 – 0.9 mm)
7. To obtain accurate spark plug readings,
accelerate up to speed on a straightaway. Push
the engine stop button and disengage the clutch
by pulling the lever in.
Coast to a stop, then remove and inspect the
spark plug. The porcelain insulator around the
center electrode should appear tan or medium
gray.
If you’re using a new plug, ride for at least 10
minutes before taking a plug reading; a brand-new
plug will not color initially.
If the electrodes appear burnt, or the insulator is
white or light gray (lean) or the electrodes and
insulator are black or fouled (rich), there is a
problem elsewhere.
Check the carburetor, fuel system and ignition
timing.
8. With the plug washer attached. Thread the
spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-
threading.
9. Tighten the spark plug:
• If the old plug is good:
1/8 turn after it seats.
• If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to
prevent loosening:
a) First, tighten the plug:
NGK: 1/2 turn after it seats.
DENSO: 1 turn after it seats.
b) Then loosen the plug.
c) Next, tighten the plug again:
1/8 turn after it seats.
NOTICE
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may be
damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may be
damaged.
10. Connect the direct ignition coil. Take care to
avoid pinching any cables or wires.
11. Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 36, 38).
Spark Plug Recommendation
Standard IMR8C-9H (NGK) or
VUH24D (DENSO)
Optional IMR9C-9H (NGK) or
VUH27D (DENSO)
Spark Plug Inspection & Replacement
(1) direct ignition coil (2) spark plug
(3) sealing gasket (4) spark plug gap
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
62 Servicing Your Honda
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Check the flange bolts for tightness.
Check the exhaust pipe and muffler for cracks or
deformation.
A damaged exhaust pipe and muffler may reduce
engine performance.
1. Remove the seat mounting bolt (1), side cover
bolt (2), collar (3) and right side cover (4).
2. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt (5).
3. Remove the muffler A bolt/washer (6), muffler
B bolt (7) and muffler (8).
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Inspection Muffler Removal
(1) seat mounting bolt (3) collar
(2) side cover bolt (4) right side cover
(1)
(4)
(2)
(3)
(5) muffler clamp bolt (7) muffler B bolt
(6) muffler A bolt/washer (8) muffler
(6)
(8)
(7)
(5)
Servicing Your Honda 63
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
1. Remove the gasket.
2. Install a new gasket (1) on to the exhaust pipe.
3. Install the muffler clamp (2) by aligning the tab
(4) of the muffler clamp with the cut-out (5) of
the muffler (3).
4. Install the muffler.
5. Install the muffler B bolt (6), muffler A bolt/
washer (7), muffler clamp bolt (8) and loosely
tighten them.
6. Tighten the muffler B bolt and muffler A bolt/
washer to the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
7. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt to the specified
torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
8. Install the right side cover (9), collar (10) and
side cover bolt (11).
9. Install the seat mounting bolt (12) and tighten
it to the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
Muffler Installation
(1) gasket (4) tab
(2) muffler clamp (5) cut-out
(3) muffler
(2)
(3)
(5)
(4)
(1)
(6) muffler B bolt (8) muffler clamp bolt
(7) muffler A bolt/washer
(7)
(6)
(8)
(9) right side cover (11) side cover bolt
(10) collar (12) seat mounting bolt
(12)
(11)
(10)
(9)
64 Servicing Your Honda
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
1. Remove the muffler (page 62).
2. Remove the exhaust pipe joint nuts (1),
exhaust pipe (2) and exhaust pipe gasket (3).
1. Install a new exhaust pipe gasket (1), exhaust
pipe (2) and exhaust pipe joint nuts (3).
2. Install the muffler (page 63) but do not tighten
the bolts yet.
3. Tighten the exhaust pipe joint nuts to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
4. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt, muffler
mounting A bolt/washer and muffler B bolt
(page 63).
5. Installation can be done in the reverse order of
removal.
Exhaust Pipe Removal
(1) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) exhaust pipe gasket
(1)
(2)
(3)
Exhaust Pipe Installation
(1) exhaust pipe gasket
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(3)
(2)
(1)
Spark Arrester
Servicing Your Honda 65
Spark Arrester
The spark arrester must be serviced every 1,000 mi
(1,600 km) of running or 100 operating hours to
maintain its efficiency.
Regular servicing prevents carbon buildup (which
can diminish engine performance) and also
complies with USDA regulations for regular
maintenance to assure proper function.
The spark arrester prevents random sparks from
the combustion process in your engine from
reaching the environment.
1. Allow the engine and muffler (1) to cool.
2. Remove the bolts (2), spark arrester (3), and
gasket (4) from the muffler.
3. Use a brush to remove carbon deposits from
the spark arrester screen. Be careful to avoid
damaging the spark arrester screen. The spark
arrester must be free of brakes and holes.
Replace, if necessary.
Check the gasket. Replace, if necessary.
4. Apply a seizure inhibitor (Three Bond 1901 or
equivalent) to the bolts threads. Install a new
gasket and the spark arrester in the muffler (1)
and tighten the bolts (2) to the specified torque:
4.4 lbf·ft (6 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
Spark Arrester Inspection
(1) muffler (3) spark arrester
(2) bolts (4) gasket
(1)
(2)
(4) (3)
(1) muffler (2) bolts
(1)
(2)
Valve Clearance
66 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Excessive valve clearance will cause noise and
eventual engine damage. Little or no clearance will
prevent the valve from closing and cause valve
damage and power loss. Check the valve clearance
when the engine is cold at the intervals specified in
the Maintenance Schedule (pages 27, 28).
The checking or adjusting of the valve clearance
should be performed while the engine is cold.
The valve clearance will change as engine
temperature rises.
Before inspection, clean the engine thoroughly to
keep dirt from entering the engine.
1. Remove the seat (page 36).
2. Remove the fuel tank (page 37).
3. Disconnect the breather tube (1) and direct
ignition coil (2).
4. Remove the cylinder head cover bolts/rubber
seals (3), and cylinder head cover (4).
1. Remove the crankshaft hole cap (1).
2. Remove the spark plug (page 61).
3. Remove the cylinder head cover (this page).
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
(1) breather tube (2) direct ignition coil
(3) cylinder head cover bolts/rubber seals
(4) cylinder head cover
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
Positioning At Top Dead Center On The
Compression Stroke
(1) crankshaft hole cap
(1)
Servicing Your Honda 67
Valve Clearance
4. Rotate the crankshaft by turning the primary
drive gear bolt (2) clockwise until aligning the
punch mark (3) on the primary drive gear with
the “ǻ” mark (4) on the right crankcase cover.
In this position, the piston may either be on the
compression or exhaust stroke.
If the crankshaft passed the punch mark, rotate
the primary drive gear bolt clockwise again
and align the punch mark with the “ǻ” mark.
The inspection must be made when the piston
is at the top of the compression stroke when
both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.
This condition can be determined by moving
the exhaust rocker arm (5). If it is free, it is an
indication that the valves are closed and that
the piston is on the compression stroke. If it is
tight and the valves are open, rotate the
primary drive gear bolt 360° and realign the
punch mark to the “ǻ” mark.
1. Set the piston at TDC on the compression
stroke (page 66).
2. Measure the intake valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the valve
lifters (2) and intake cam lobe (3).
3. Measure the exhaust valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the
exhaust rocker arm (4) and shims (5).
Valve Clearances:
If intake valve clearance and exhaust valve
clearance need adjustment, see Camshaft Removal
(page 68) and select the correct shim for each
valve.
(2) primary drive gear bolt
(4) “
ǻ” mark
(3) punch mark
(5) exhaust rocker arm
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
Valve Clearance Inspection
(1) feeler gauge
(2) valve lifters
(3) intake cam lobe
(1)
(3)
(2)
(1) feeler gauge
(4) exhaust rocker arm
(5) exhaust valve shims
IN: 0.005 ± 0.001 in (0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
(5)
(1)
(4)
68 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
1. Record the intake valve clearance and exhaust
valve clearance (page 67).
Make sure the piston is at TDC on the
compression stroke (page 66).
2. Remove the cam chain tensioner lifter cover
bolt (1) and sealing washer (2).
Use the tensioner stopper tool.
• Tensioner stopper
07AMG-001A100
3. Turn the tensioner shaft clockwise with the
stopper tool (3) until it stops, in order to retract
the tensioner fully.
Then insert the stopper tool fully to hold the
stopper in the fully retracted position.
Camshaft Removal
(1) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(2) sealing washer
(1)
(2)
(3) stopper tool
(3)
(3)
Servicing Your Honda 69
Valve Clearance
4. Remove the camshaft holder bolts (4) and
camshaft holders (5).
Loosen the camshaft holder bolts in a criss-cross
pattern in two or three steps.
5. Remove the camshaft (6), and then attach a
piece of wire to the cam chain to prevent it
from falling into the crankcase.
Be careful not let the set rings of the camshaft
holders fall into the crankcase.
6. Remove the valve lifters (7).
Position the removed intake valve lifters and shims
to indicate their location such as intake or exhaust,
right or left.
NOTICE
Do not let the valve lifters and shims fall into the
crankcase.
7. Remove the shims (8).
(4) camshaft holder bolts (6) camshaft
(5) camshaft holders
(6)
(4)
(4)
(5)
(7) valve lifters
(7)
(8) shims
(8)
(8)
70 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
1. Clean the valve shim contact area in the valve
lifter (1) with compressed air.
2. Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer
and record it.
Sixty-nine different thickness shims (2) are
available from the thinnest (1.200 mm
thickness) shim to the thickest (2.900 mm
thickness) in intervals of 0.025 mm.
3. Calculate the new shim thickness using the
equation below.
A = (B – C) + D
A: New shim thickness
B: Recorded valve clearance
C: Specified valve clearance
D: Old shim thickness
• Make sure of the correct shim thickness by
measuring the shim with a micrometer.
• Reface the exhaust valve seat if carbon deposits
result in a calculated dimension of over 2.900
mm.
NOTICE
Do not lap the intake valves. They are titanium and
have a thin oxide coating. Lapping will damage
this coating.
If a calculated dimension is out of specifications,
have your motorcycle inspected by your dealer.
Shim Selection
(1) valve lifter
(1)
(2) shim
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 71
Valve Clearance
1. Install the newly selected shims (1) on the
valve retainers (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution (a
mixture of 1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum
disulfide grease containing more than 3%
molybdenum disulfide additive) to outer
surface of the each valve lifters.
Install the valve lifters (3)
3. Rotate the primary drive gear bolt (4)
(crankshaft) clockwise and align the punch
mark (5) with the “ǻ” mark (6).
4. Apply molybdenum oil solution to the
camshaft journals and cam lobes.
Place the camshaft (7) with the intake cam
lobes (8) facing up and align the timing marks
(9) on the cam sprocket (10) with the top
surface of the cylinder head (11).
Install the cam chain (12) over the sprocket
without rotating the camshaft.
5. Apply grease to the set rings and install it onto
the camshaft holders (13).
Apply engine oil to the camshaft holder bolt
threads and seating surface.
Install the camshaft holder bolts (14) and
tighten it to the specified to torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
Tighten the camshaft holder bolts in a criss-cross
pattern in two or three steps.
Camshaft Installation
(1) shims (2) valve retainers
(3) valve lifters
(1)
(2)
(2)
(3)
(4) primary drive gear bolt
(5) punch mark
(6) “
ǻ” mark
(7) camshaft (10) cam sprocket
(8) intake cam lobes (11) cylinder head
(9) timing marks (12) cam chain
(4)
(5)
(6)
(11)
(10)
(9)
(12)
(7)
(8
)
(9)
(13) camshaft holders (14) camshaft holder bolts
(14)
(14)
(13)
72 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
6. Remove the stopper tool (15) from the cam
chain tensioner lifter.
7. Insert the feeler gauge between the intake
valve lifter and cam lobe.
If the feeler gauge (16) cannot be inserted, the
shim is caught between the valve lifter and the
valve retainer. Remove the camshaft holders to
place the shim correctly, and reinstall the
camshaft holders.
Valve Clearance:
8. Install a new sealing washer (17) and tighten
the cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt (18).
Coat a new O-ring (1) with engine oil and install it
onto the crankshaft hole cap (2).
Apply grease to the crankshaft hole cap threads.
Install and tighten the crankshaft hole cap to the
specified torque:
11 lbf·ft (15 N·m, 1.5 kgf·m)
(15) stopper tool
IN: 0.005 ± 0.001 in (0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
(16) feeler gauge
(15)
(16)
(16)
(17) sealing washer
(18) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(17)
(18)
Crankshaft Hole Cap Installation
(1) O-ring
(2) crankshaft hole cap
(1)
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 73
Valve Clearance
1. Check the spark plug hole packing (1) is in
good condition, replace it if necessary.
Apply engine oil to the spark plug hole packing
and install it to the spark plug hole (2).
2. Inspect the cylinder head cover packing (3)ޓ
for damage or deterioration, replace it ifޓ
necessary.
Install the cylinder head cover packing intoޓ
the groove of the cylinder head cover (4).
3. Check the rubber seals (5) are in good
condition, replace them if necessary.
Install the rubber seals onto the cylinder head
cover with the “UP” marks (6) facing up.
4. Install the cylinder head cover (4) and tighten
the cylinder head cover bolts (7) to the
specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Install the spark plug (page 61).
6. Connect the direct ignition coil (8) and
breather tube (9).
7. Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 36, 38).
Cylinder Head Cover Installation
(1) spark plug hole packing
(2) spark plug hole
(3) cylinder head cover packing
() cylinder head cover
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
(5) rubber seal
(6) “UP” marks
(4) cylinder head cover
(7) cylinder head cover bolts
(5)
(6)
(6)
(7)
(4)
(8) direct ignition coil
(9) breather tube
(8)
(9)
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
74 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Clean the area above the engine before
disassembly to prevent dirt falling into the
engine.
2. Drain the radiator coolant after cooling the
motorcycle (page 141).
3. Remove the seat and fuel tank (pages 36, 37).
4. Lift the subframe to the upright position
(page 39).
5. Remove the carburetor (page 130).
6. Remove the exhaust pipe (page 64).
7. Disconnect the air suction (1) and vacuum
hoses (2).
8. Remove the air supply pipe bolt (3), PAIR
control valve bolts/nuts (4) and PAIR control
valve (5).
9. Disconnect the direct ignition coil (5).
10. Remove any dirt around the spark plug base.
11. Remove the cylinder head cover (page 66).
12. Remove the spark plug (6).
13. Position the piston to top dead center on the
compression stroke (page 66).
Remove the camshaft (page 68).
14. Loosen the radiator hose clamp (7) and
disconnect the radiator hose (8).
Cylinder Head Removal
(1) air suction hose (4) PAIR control valve bolts/nuts
(2) vacuum hose (5) PAIR control valve
(3) air supply pipe bolt
(1)
(5) (3)
(2)
(4)
(5) direct ignition coil
(6) spark plug
(5)
(6)
(7) radiator hose clamp
(8) radiator hose
(8)
(7)
Servicing Your Honda 75
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
15. Remove the engine hanger nuts/bolts (9),
engine hanger plates (10), and clutch cable
guide (11).
16. Remove the cylinder head bolts (12).
17. Loosen the cylinder bolt (13).
18. Remove the cylinder head nuts/washers (14)
and cylinder head (15).
Loosen the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in two or
three steps.
NOTICE
Do not let the nuts, washers and cam chain fall
into the crankcase.
19. Remove the dowel pins (16), cylinder head
gasket (17) and cam chain guide (18).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins and cam chain fall into
the crankcase.
(9) engine hanger nuts/bolts
(10) engine hanger plates
(11) clutch cable guide
(11)
(10)
(9)
(12) cylinder head bolts
(13) cylinder bolt
(14) cylinder head nuts/washers
(15) cylinder head
(13)
(12)
(15)
(14)
(16) dowel pins (18) cam chain guide
(17) cylinder head gasket
(18)
(17)
(16)
76 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Remove the cylinder bolt (1) and cylinder (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the cam chain fall into the crankcase.
Do not pry on or strike the cylinder.
2. Remove the dowel pins (3) and cylinder gasket
(4).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
1. Place clean shop towels in the crankcase to
keep the piston pin clips, or other parts, from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Remove the piston pin clips (1) using a pair of
needle-nose pliers.
3. Press the piston pin (2) out of the piston (3),
and remove the piston.
Under racing conditions, the piston and rings
should be replaced after 15.0 hours of running.
Replace the piston pin after 15.0 hours of running.
Spread each piston ring (1) and remove by lifting it
up at a point just opposite the gap.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
Cylinder Removal
(1) cylinder bolt
(2) cylinder
(3) dowel pins
(4) cylinder gasket
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Piston Removal
(1) piston pin clip (3) piston
(2) piston pin
(3)
(2)
(1)
Piston Ring Removal
(1) piston ring
(1)
Servicing Your Honda 77
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
We recommend you consult the Service Manual or
your dealer for correct Service Limit
measurements.
1. Remove the carbon deposits from the piston
crown and piston ring grooves with the
removed ring.
2. Apply engine oil to the piston rings and install
them.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
Do not damage the piston during piston ring
installation.
• To install the oil ring, install the spacer first,
then install the side rails.
• Install the top ring on the piston with the
marking side facing up.
3. After installing the rings they should rotate
freely, without sticking.
Space the ring end gaps 180 degrees apart
between the top ring and the upper side rail.
Space the ring end gaps 90 degrees apart
between the upper side rail, spacer, and the
lower side rail.
Piston/Piston Pin/Piston Ring Inspection Piston Ring Installation
top ring
oil ring
top ring
mark
side
rail
oil
ring
side
rail
spacer
78 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Place clean shop towels over the crankcase
opening to keep the piston pin clips from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution (a
mixture of 1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum
disulfide grease containing more than 3%
molybdenum disulfide additive) to the
connecting rod small end.
3. Install the piston (1) with the “IN” mark (2)
and/or the large valve recesses (3) facing the
intake side of the engine.
4. Apply engine oil to the piston pin (4) outer
surface.
Apply engine oil to the piston outer surface and
piston pin hole inner surface.
Install the piston pin and new piston pin clips
(5).
NOTICE
Use new piston pin clips. Never reuse old piston
pin clips.
Do not let the piston pin clips fall into the
crankcase.
Do not align the piston pin clip end gap with the
piston cut-out (6).
1. Place clean shop towels over the crankcase
opening to prevent dust or dirt from entire the
engine.
2. Clean off any gasket material from the gasket
surface of the crankcase.
3. Remove the shop towel.
Do not let any gasket debris fall into the
crankcase.
4. Install the dowel pins (1) and new cylinder
gasket (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
5. Clean any gasket material off the cylinder.
Piston Installation
(1) piston (4) piston pin
(2) “IN” mark (5) piston pin clip
(3) large valve recesses (6) piston cut-out
(1)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(5)
Cylinder Installation
(1) dowel pins
(2) cylinder gasket
(1)
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 79
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
6. Apply engine oil to the cylinder wall, piston
outer surface and piston rings.
Route the cam chain (3) through the cylinder
(4).
Install the cylinder over the piston rings by
hand while compressing the piston rings (5).
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston rings and cylinder wall.
7. Temporarily install the cylinder bolt (6).
8. Install the cam chain guide (7) and fit the cam
chain guide tabs (8) in the cylinder cut-outs
(9).
Push the guide until it bottoms in the crankcase
guide hole.
1. Install the dowel pins (1) and new cylinder
head gasket (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
(3) cam chain (5) piston rings
(4) cylinder
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6) cylinder bolt (8) cam chain guide tabs
(7) cam chain guide (9) cylinder cut-outs
(7)
(6)
(9)
(8)
Cylinder Head Installation
(1) dowel pins
(2) cylinder head gasket
(1)
(2)
80 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
2. Route the cam chain through the cylinder head
(3).
Install the cylinder head.
NOTICE
Do not damage mating surfaces when installing
the cylinder head.
3. Apply engine oil to all cylinder head nut
threads and seating surface.
Install the washers and cylinder head nuts (4).
Tighten the cylinder head nuts to the specified
torque:
29 lbf·ft (39 N·m, 4.0 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Do not let the washers and nuts fall into the
crankcase.
Tighten the cylinder head nuts in a criss-cross
pattern in two or three steps.
4. Install the cylinder head bolts (5).
Tighten the cylinder bolt (6) and cylinder head
bolts to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Install the engine hanger plates (7), clutch
cable guide (8), engine hanger nuts/bolts (9) of
the frame side and engine hanger nut/bolt (10)
of the engine side.
Tighten the engine hanger nut to the specified
torque:
frame side: 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
engine side: 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m, 5.5 kgf·m)
(3) cylinder head
(4) cylinder head nuts/washers
(3)
(4)
(5) cylinder head bolts
(6) cylinder bolt
(6)
(5)
(7) engine hanger plate
(8) clutch cable guide
(9) engine hanger nuts/bolts of the frame side
(10) engine hanger nut/bolt of the engine side
(10)
(8)
(9)
(7)
Servicing Your Honda 81
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
6. Connect the radiator hose (11) to the cylinder
head and tighten the radiator hose clamp (12)
securely.
7. Install the shims and camshaft (page 71).
8. Install the spark plug (page 61).
9. Install the cylinder head cover (page 73).
Connect the direct ignition coil (13).
10. Install the PAIR control valve (14), PAIR
control valve bolts/nuts (15) and air supply
pipe bolt (16).
11. Tighten the PAIR control valve nuts and air
supply pipe bolt to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
12. Connect the vacuum (17) and air suction (18)
hoses.
13. Install the exhaust pipe (page 64).
14. Install the carburetor (page 133).
15. Install the subframe and muffler (pages 40,
63).
16. Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 36, 38).
17. Fill and bleed the cooling system (page 48).
Check for the following:
– compression leaks
– abnormal engine noise
– secondary air leaks
– coolant leaks
– oil leaks
(11) radiator hose
(12) radiator hose clamp
(11)
(12)
(13) direct ignition coil
(14) PAIR control valve
(15) PAIR control valve bolts/nuts
(16) air supply pipe bolt
(17) vacuum hose
(18) air suction hose
(13)
(18)
(15)
(17)
(14) (16)
Suspension
82 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Loose, worn, or damaged suspension components
may adversely affect the handling and stability of
your motorcycle. If any suspension components
appear worn or damaged, see your dealer for
further inspection. Your dealer is qualified to
determine whether or not replacement parts or
repairs are needed.
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour to ensure that the
suspension has worked in (page 21).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the
front suspension at the standard setting before
attempting any adjustments.
• For optimum fork performance, we
recommend that you disassemble and clean the
fork after riding your CRF for 3 hours.
See page 107 for fork disassembly.
• Replace the fork oil every 7.5 hours of running.
See page 84 for oil level adjustment after
changing the fork oil.
• Replace the damper oil every 22.5 hours of
running. See page 111 for oil level adjustment
after changing the damper oil.
• Use Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W or an
equivalent which contains special additives to
assure maximum performance of your CRF's
front suspension.
• Periodically check and clean all front
suspension parts to assure top performance.
Check the dust seals for dust, dirt, and foreign
materials. Check the oil for any contamination.
•Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page 125). Make all rebound and compression
damping adjustments in one-click increments.
(Adjusting two or more clicks at a time may
cause you to pass over the best adjustment.)
Test ride after each adjustment.
• If you become confused about adjustment
settings, return to the standard position and
start over.
• If the fork is still too stiff/soft after adjusting
compression damping, determine which
portion of the travel is still too stiff/soft. This is
an important step that will help you solve
suspension problems.
1. Make sure that the fork protectors (1) and dust
seals (2) are clean and not packed with mud
and dirt.
2. Check for signs of oil leakage. Damaged or
leaking fork seals should be replaced before
your CRF is ridden.
3. Inspect the wear rings (3) for wear or damage.
Replace the wear ring if it is 0.06 in (1.5 mm)
or flat with the outer tube (4).
When replacing the wear ring, remove the fork
leg (page 107).
Install the wear ring with its end gap facing
rearward.
4. Make a quick check of fork operation by
locking the front brake and pushing down on
the handlebar several times.
Front Suspension Inspection
(1) fork protector (2) dust seal
(2)
(1)
(3) wear ring (4) outer tube
(3) wear rings
(3)
(4)
(3)
(3)
Servicing Your Honda 83
Suspension
The swingarm is controlled by one hydraulic shock
absorber with an aluminum reservoir for oil and
nitrogen gas pressure. The gas pressure in the
reservoir is contained within a rubber bladder.
The shock absorber’s spring pre-load and damping
adjustments (compression and rebound) should be
adjusted for the rider’s weight and track conditions
(page 124).
Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or dispose
of the damper; see your dealer. The instructions
found in this owner’s manual are limited to
adjustments of the shock assembly only.
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately one hour with the standard
suspension settings before attempting to adjust
the rear suspension.
• Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page 127) for making all rebound and
compression damping adjustments in one click
or 1/12 turn increments (Adjusting two or
more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to
pass over the best adjustment.) Test ride after
each adjustment.
• If the rear suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust it
by turning all the compression and rebound
adjusters according to the procedures
described in page 121. After adjusting the
adjusters simultaneously, suspension may be
fine-tuned by turning one of the compression
and rebound damping adjusters in one click or
in 1/12 turn increments.
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable
adjustment, return to the standard position and
begin again.
1. Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down
and check for smooth suspension action.
2. Lift the subframe to the upright position
(page 39).
3. Check for a broken or collapsed spring.
4. Check the rear shock absorber (1) for a bent
rod or oil leaks.
5. Push the rear wheel sideways to check for
worn or loose swingarm bearings. There
should be no movement. If there is, have the
bearings replaced by your dealer.
Rear Suspension Inspection
(1) rear shock absorber
(1)
84 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
Refer to Front Suspension Disassembly on
page 107.
1. Record the rebound damping adjuster position
and turn the adjuster counterclockwise until it
stops.
2. Hold the outer tube (1), then remove the fork
damper (2) from the outer tube using the lock
nut wrench (3). Gently slide the outer tube
down onto the lower end of the slider (4).
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
NOTICE
The outer tube (1) can drop on the slider (5) and
damage the fork dust seal (6) and guide bushing
(7) when the fork damper is removed. To avoid
damage, hold both the outer tube and slider when
removing the fork damper.
3. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube (1).
Drain the fork oil from the oil hole (8) of the
fork damper.
4. Drain the fork oil by turning the outer tube (1)
upside down. (About 12 cc of fork oil will be
left in the outer tube when it is left inverted for
about 20 minutes at 20°C/68°F.)
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 143).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained oil is harmful to the
environment.
Recommended Fork Oil
viscosity (weight) 5 W
suggested oil Pro Honda HP Fork Oil or
equivalent
Fork Oil Change
(1) outer tube (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork damper (4) slider, lower end
(3)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(4)
(1) outer tube (6) dust seal
(5) slider (7) guide bushing
(1) outer tube (8) oil hole
(6)
(7)
(5) (1)
(1)
(8)
(1) outer tube
(1)
Amount of fork oil left in the fork
(within damper and spring) unit: cc
minute
°C/°F
30/86
20/68
10/50
0/32
5
27
29.4
28.2
30.6
10
15.3
16.5
21.2
22.4
20
10.6
11.8
16.5
18.8
35
9.4
10.6
15.3
16.5
55
8.3
9.4
12.9
16.5
85
7.9
8.2
11.8
15.3
145
7.9
8.2
11.8
14.1
Servicing Your Honda 85
Suspension
5. Pour the recommended fork oil (page 84) into
the outer tube.
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
legs.
6. Check that the O-ring (9) on the fork damper
(2) is in good condition. Apply the
recommended fork oil to the O-ring.
7. Temporarily install the fork damper (2) to the
outer tube (1).
After installing the fork leg (page 117), tighten
the fork damper to the specified torque:
Actual:
25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
Torque wrench scale reading:
23 lbf·ft (31 N·m, 3.2 kgf·m), using a 20 in
(50 cm) long deflecting beam type torque
wrench.
When using the lock nut wrench, use a 20 in (50
cm) long deflecting beam type torque wrench. The
lock nut wrench increases the torque wrench’s
leverage, so the torque wrench reading will be less
than the torque actually applied to the fork damper.
Fork Oil Capacity:
Standard 23.53 lbf/in (4.12 N/mm) Fork Spring
or
Standard oil
capacity
11.7 US oz
(345 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.5 US oz
(399 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.2 US oz
(303 cm
3
)
2 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
No mark
(factory products)
Optional Softer 22.38 lbf/in (3.92 N/mm) Fork Spring
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(350 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.7 US oz
(404 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.4 US oz
(308 cm
3
)
Optional Stiffer 24.61 lbf/in (4.31 N/mm) Fork Spring
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(348 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.6 US oz
(402 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.3 US oz
(306 cm
3
)
1 scribe mark
3 scribe marks
(1) outer tube (9) O-ring
(2) fork damper
(9)
(2)
(1)
Brakes
86 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Both the front and rear brakes are the hydraulic
disc type. As the brake pads wear, the brake fluid
level will drop. A leak in the system will also cause
the level to drop.
Frequently inspect the system to ensure there are
no fluid leaks. Periodically inspect the brake fluid
level and the brake pads for wear.
If the front brake lever or rear brake pedal freeplay
does not feel within the normal range while riding,
check the brake pads. If they are not worn beyond
the recommended limit (page 89), there is
probably air in the brake system.
Refer to the Honda Service Manual or see your
dealer to have the air bled from the system.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. To position the front brake lever farther away
from the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2)
clockwise.
To position the front brake lever closer to the
handgrip, turn the adjuster counterclockwise.
3. While holding the adjuster, tighten the lock nut
to the specified torque:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
4. Apply the brake, release it, then spin the wheel
and check that it rotates freely. Repeat this
procedure several times.
5. Check freeplay by pulling in slowly on the
front brake lever until the brake starts to
engage.
Freeplay: LESS THAN 13/16 in (20 mm)
6. Apply grease to the contacting faces of the
adjuster and piston (3).
The rear brake pedal height should be
approximately level with the right footpeg.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1) and turn the adjusting
bolt (2) in direction (+) to raise the rear brake
pedal (3) or in direction (–) to lower it.
2. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque at
the desired pedal height:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
Front Brake Lever Adjustment
(1) lock nut (3) piston
(2) adjuster
LESS
THAN
(1)
(2)
(3)
13/16 in (20 mm)
Rear Brake Pedal Height
(1) lock nut (+) raise the pedal height
(2) adjusting bolt (–) lower the pedal height
(3) rear brake pedal
(2)
(1)
(3)
(+)
(–)
Brakes
Servicing Your Honda 87
Front Brake Fluid Level Check
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LWR (LOWER) level mark
(1). If the level is at or below the LWR (LOWER)
level mark, check the brake pads for wear
(page 89).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected for
leaks.
If the front brake lever freeplay exceeds 13/16 in
(20 mm) there is probably air in the brake system
and it must be bled. Refer to the Honda Service
Manual or see your dealer for brake bleeding.
Rear Brake Fluid Level Check
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LOWER level mark (2). If
the level is at or below the LOWER level mark,
check the brake pads for wear (page 89).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected for
leaks.
If the rear brake pedal freeplay exceeds 13/16 in
(20 mm) there is probably air in the brake system
and it must be bled. Refer to the Honda Service
Manual or see your dealer for brake bleeding.
Fluid Level Inspection
(1) LWR (LOWER) level mark
(1)
(2) LOWER level mark
(2)
88 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Adding Front Brake Fluid
NOTICE
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage
instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also
harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful
whenever you remove the reservoir cap: make
sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system.
Do not mix different types of fluid as they may
not be compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the screws (1), reservoir cap (2) and
diaphragm (3).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to the
upper level mark (4). Do not overfill.
3. Reinstall the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the screws to the specified torque:
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
Adding Rear Brake Fluid
NOTICE
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage
instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also
harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful
whenever you remove the reservoir cap: make
sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system.
Do not mix different types of fluid as they may
not be compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the bolts (5), reservoir cap (6), set
plate (7) and diaphragm (8).
Check the diaphragm installation as shown.
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to the
upper level mark (9). Do not overfill.
3. Reinstall the diaphragm, set plate and reservoir
cap.
4. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque:
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
Other
Inspection
• Make sure there are not fluid leaks.
• Check for deterioration or cracks in the hoses
and fittings.
(1) screws (4) upper level mark
(2) reservoir cap
(3) diaphragm
(4)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(5) bolts (8) diaphragm
(6) reservoir cap (9) upper level mark
(7) set plate
(5) (9)
(6) (8)
(7)
Servicing Your Honda 89
Brakes
Brake pad wear depends on the severity of usage
and track conditions. (Generally, the pads will
wear faster on wet and dirty tracks) Inspect the
pads at each regular maintenance interval (pages
27 and 28).
Front Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) through the front wheel
to determine the pad wear. If either pad is worn
anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in (1 mm), both
pads must be replaced.
Rear Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (4) from the rear side of the
caliper to determine the pad wear. If either pad is
worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in (1 mm),
both pads must be replaced.
Check that the front brake lever and rear brake
pedal assemblies are positioned properly and the
securing bolts are tight.
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
Brake Pad Wear
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) front brake caliper
minimum thickness
indicator
wear indicator
grooves
replace
replace
0.04 in
(1 mm)
0.04 in
(1 mm)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4) brake pads (6) brake disc
(5) rear brake caliper
replace
0.04 in
(1 mm)
minimum thickness
indicator
(4)
(5)
(4)
(6)
Other Inspections
Wheels
90 Servicing Your Honda
Wheels
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Keeping the wheels true (round) and maintaining
correct spoke tension is critical to safe motorcycle
operation. During the first few rides, spokes will
loosen more rapidly due to the initial seating of the
parts. Excessively loose spokes may result in
instability at high speeds and the possible loss of
control. It’s also important that the rim locks are
secure to prevent tire slippage.
It is not necessary to remove the wheels to perform
the recommended service in the Maintenance
Schedule (pages 27 and 28).
However, information for wheel removal is
provided for emergency situations.
1. Inspect the wheel rims (1) and spokes (2) for
damage.
2. Tighten, any loose spokes and rim locks (3) to
the specified torque:
Spoke: 2.7 lbf·ft (3.68 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Rim Lock: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
3. Check wheel rim runout. If runout is
noticeable, see the Honda Service Manual for
inspection instructions.
See the Honda Service Manual for inspection
information:
1. Check the axle shaft for runout.
2. Check the condition of the wheel bearings.
Wheel Rims & Spokes
(1) wheel rim
(2) spokes
(3) rim lock
(1)
(2)
(3)
Axles & Wheel Bearings
Tires & Tubes
Servicing Your Honda 91
Tires & Tubes
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
To safely operate your CRF, the tires must be the
proper type (off-road) and size, in good condition
with adequate tread, and correctly inflated.
The following pages give detailed information on
how and when to check your air pressure, how to
inspect your tires for wear and damage, and our
recommendations on tire replacement.
Properly inflated tires provide the best
combination of handling, tread life, and riding
comfort. Generally, underinflated tires wear
unevenly, adversely affect handling, and are more
likely to fail from being overheated.
Underinflated tires can also cause wheel damage
on hard terrain. Overinflated tires make your CRF
ride harshly, are more prone to damage from
surface hazards, and wear unevenly.
Make sure the valve stem caps are secure. If
necessary, install new caps.
Always check air pressure when your tires are
“cold.” If you check air pressure when your tires
are “warm” — even if your CRF has only been
ridden for a few miles — the readings will be
higher. If you let air out of warm tires to match the
recommended cold pressures, the tires will be
underinflated.
The correct “cold” tire pressures are:
If you decide to adjust tire pressures for a
particular riding condition, make changes a little at
a time.
Take time to inspect your tires and wheels before
you ride.
• Inspect carefully for bumps or bulges in the
side of the tire or the tread. Replace any tire
that has a bump or bulge.
• Look closely for cuts, slits, or cracks in the
tires. Replace a tire if you can see fabric or
cord.
• Check for rocks or other objects embedded in
the tire or tread. Remove any objects.
• Check the position of both valve stems. A
tilted valve stem indicates the tube is slipping
inside the tire or the tire is slipping on the rim.
If a tube is punctured or damaged, you should
replace it as soon as possible. A repaired tube may
not have the same reliability as a new one, and it
may fail while you are riding.
Use a replacement tube equivalent to the original.
WARNING
Using tires that are excessively worn or
improperly inflated can cause a crash in
which you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding tire inflation and
maintenance.
Air Pressure
Front 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Inspection
Tube Replacement
92 Servicing Your Honda
Tires & Tubes
The tires that came on your CRF were designed to
provide a good combination of handling, braking,
durability, and comfort across a broad range of
riding conditions.
• When replacing, use the original equipment
tires or equivalent tires of the same size,
construction, speed rating, and load range as
the originals.
• Replace the tube any time you replace a tire.
The old tube will probably be stretched and, if
installed in a new tire, could fail.
Tire Replacement
WARNING
Installing improper tires on your
motorcycle can affect handling and
stability. This can cause a crash in which
you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Always use the size and type of tires
recommended in this owner’s manual.
Front
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP D742FA
Rear
100/100 – 18 59M
DUNLOP D756
Type bias-ply, tube
Side Stand
Servicing Your Honda 93
Side Stand
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
1. Check the side stand spring (1) for damage and
loss of tension.
2. Check the side stand assembly for freedom of
movement.
If the side stand is stiff or squeaky, clean the pivot
area and lubricate the pivot bolt with grease.
(1) side stand spring
(1)
Drive Chain
94 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
An endless (riveted master link) chain connects the
drive and driven sprockets. The O-ring chain uses
rubber between the side plates of the pin and roller
links to seal in the manufacturer-installed
lubricating grease and keep out moisture and dirt.
The service life of the chain depends on proper
lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance can
cause premature wear or damage to the drive chain
or sprockets.
Under severe usage, or when the motorcycle is
ridden in unusually dusty or muddy areas, more
frequent maintenance will be necessary.
Before servicing your drive chain, turn the engine
OFF, raise the rear wheel off the ground by placing
an optional workstand or equivalent support under
the engine and check that your transmission is in
neutral.
It is not necessary to remove or replace the drive
chain to perform the recommended service in the
Regular off-road Use Maintenance Schedule
(page 27).
1. Stop the engine and raise the rear wheel off the
ground by placing the optional workstand or
equivalent support under the engine and shift
the transmission into neutral.
2. Check the drive chain slack (1) in the upper
drive chain run midway between the drive (2)
and driven sprockets (3). Drive chain slack
should allow the following vertical movement
by hand:
1 – 1 3/8 in (25 – 35 mm)
NOTICE
Excessive chain slack may allow the drive chain to
damage the engine cases.
If the chain is found to be slack in one segment of
its length and taut in another, this indicates that
some of the links are either worn, kinked or
binding. Kinking and binding can frequently be
eliminated by thorough cleaning and lubrication.
If the drive chain requires adjustment, procedure is
as follows:
1. Loosen the rear axle nut (1).
2. Loosen the lock nuts (2) and turn the adjusting
bolts (3) counterclockwise to decrease slack or
clockwise to increase slack.
Align the index mark (4) of the axle plates (5)
with same reference marks (6) on both sides of
the swingarm.
3. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified
torque:
94 lbf·ft (127 N·m, 13.0 kgf·m)
4. Recheck chain slack and adjust if necessary.
5. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise
lightly until it touches the axle plate. Then,
tighten the lock nut to the specified torque by
holding the adjusting bolt with a wrench.
20 lbf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m)
Drive Chain Inspection
(1) drive chain slack (3) driven sprocket
(2) drive sprocket
(2)
(1)
(3)
Adjustment
(1) rear axle nut (4) index mark
(2) lock nut (5) axle plate
(3) adjusting bolt (6) reference marks
(4)
(6)
(6)
(3)
(2)
(5)
(1)
Servicing Your Honda 95
Drive Chain
For maximum service life, the drive chain should
be cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted before each
outing. Your CRF has an endless (riveted master
link) type chain. It should only be removed or
replaced by your dealer.
The O-rings can be damaged by steam cleaning,
high pressure washers, and certain solvents.
1. Clean the side surfaces of the chain with a dry
cloth. Use a high flash point solvent such as
kerosene – not gasoline.
Do not brush the rubber O-rings. Brushing will
damage them. Use of a solvent may also
damage the O-rings.
2. Replace the drive chain if it has damaged
rollers, loose fitting links, damaged O-rings, or
other wise appears unserviceable.
3. Measure the drive chain plate (1). If the drive
chain plate is worn anywhere to a thickness of
0.53 in (13.4 mm), the drive chain must be
replaced.
Replacement Chain:
Size/link: DID520MXV – 116LE
4. Inspect the sprocket teeth for possible wear or
damage. Replace them if necessary.
Never install a new drive chain on badly worn
sprockets, or use new sprockets with a badly
worn drive chain. Both chain and sprockets
must be in good condition, or the new
replacement chain or sprocket(s) will wear
rapidly.
Excessively worn sprocket teeth have a
hooked, worn appearance. Replace any
sprocket, which is damaged or excessively
worn.
NOTICE
Use of a new chain with worn sprockets will cause
rapid chain wear.
5. Lubricate the drive chain.
6. Recheck chain slack and adjust if necessary.
Removal, Cleaning & Replacement
(1) drive chain plate (inner)
0.53 in
(13.4 mm)
(1)
96 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
1. Check the chain slider (1) for wear. If the wear
is 3/16 in (5 mm) or more, replace it.
2. Check the chain guide slider (2) for wear.
Replace the chain guide slider if it is worn to
the bottom of the wear limit groove (3).
1. Measure the diameter of the drive chain rollers.
Replace them if below the service limit.
Service Limit:
UPPER ROLLER: 1.1 in (29 mm)
LOWER ROLLER: 1.2 in (31 mm)
2. Replace the roller if necessary as follows.
Install the upper drive chain roller (Green) (1)
and lower drive chain roller (Black) (2) as
shown.
Tighten the drive chain roller bolt and nut to
the specified torque.
Upper roller bolt: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
Lower roller nut: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
Lubricate the drive chain with Pro Honda HP
Chain Lube or an equivalent chain lubricant or
drive chain lubricant designed specifically for use
with O-ring chains. Wipe off the excess oil or
chain lubricant.
Commercial chain lubricants not designed for
motorcycle drive chains may contain solvents
which could damage the O-rings.
Drive Chain Sliders
(1) chain slider
(2) chain guide slider
(3) wear limit groove
(1)
(2)
(3)
Drive Chain Rollers
(1) upper drive chain roller (2) lower drive chain roller
(1)
(2)
Lubrication
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Servicing Your Honda 97
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
1. With your CRF on a box or optional workstand
(front wheel elevated), turn the handlebar to
the right and left to check for roughness in the
steering head bearings.
2. Stand in front of your CRF, grab the fork (at
the axle), look at the steering head, and push
the fork in and out (toward the engine) to check
for play in the steering head bearings.
If any roughness or play is felt, but you do not
see any movement in the steering head, the
fork bushings may be worn. Refer to the
Honda Service Manual for replacement or
adjustment procedures, or see your dealer.
1. Check the handlebar (1) for bends or cracks.
2. Check that the handlebar has not moved from
its proper position by inspecting the paint mark
(2).
3. Check the torque of the handlebar upper holder
bolts (3):
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Tighten the front bolts first.
Periodically, disconnect the throttle, clutch and hot
start cables at their upper ends. Thoroughly
lubricate the cable pivot points with a
commercially available cable lubricant. If the
clutch lever, hot start lever and throttle do not
operate smoothly, replace the cables.
Be sure the throttle returns freely and
automatically from fully open to fully closed, in all
steering positions.
Steering Head Bearing Inspection
Handlebar Inspection
(1) handlebar (3) handlebar upper holder bolts
(2) paint mark
(1)
(2)
(3)
Control Cables
98 Servicing Your Honda
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before
every outing.
RIGHT SIDE
LEFT SIDE
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
(2) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(3) coolant drain bolt
(4) crankshaft hole cap
(5) transmission oil check bolt
(6) clutch cover bolts
(13) air supply pipe bolt
Item
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
Cylinder head cover bolts
Exhaust pipe joint nuts
Coolant drain bolt
Crankshaft hole cap
Transmission oil check bolt
Clutch cover bolts
Cylinder bolt
Oil filter cover bolts
Cylinder head bolts
Drive sprocket bolt
Engine oil drain bolt
Transmission oil drain bolt
Air supply pipe bolt
ENGINE
Torque
lbf
•
ft N
•
mkgf
•
m
7
15
7
11
9
7
7
9
7
23
12
12
7
10
21
10
15
12
10
10
12
10
31
16
16
10
1.0
2.1
1.0
1.5
1.2
1.0
1.0
1.2
1.0
3.2
1.6
1.6
1.0
(13)
(5)
(4)
(6)
(2)
(3)
(1) cylinder head cover bolts
(7) cylinder bolt
(8) oil filter cover bolts
(9) cylinder head bolts
(10) drive sprocket bolt
(11) engine oil drain bolt
(12) transmission oil drain bolt
(9)
(8)
(1)
(7)
(10)
(11)
(12)
Battery
Servicing Your Honda 99
Battery
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Your CRF has a maintenance-free type battery.
You do not have to check the battery electrolyte
level or add distilled water as you would with a
conventional-type battery.
NOTICE
Your battery is a maintenance-free type and can
be permanently damaged if the cap strip is
removed.
Electrical accessories use current from the battery,
even when the engine is stopping. Limited
operation also allows the battery to discharge. If
you have electrical accessories on your motorcycle
or do not ride frequently, we recommended that
you charge the battery frequently (see Battery
Charging on page 100).
If you do not expect to ride your CRF for at least
two weeks, we recommended you remove the
battery, or at least disconnect the battery cables
(negative cable first).
If you plan to store your CRF, see Battery Storage
(this page).
If your battery seems weak and/or is leaking
electrolyte (cause slow starting or other electrical
problems), see your dealer.
WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related
accessories contain lead and lead compounds.
Wash hands after handling.
If you plan to store your CRF, we recommend you
remove the battery and store it where it can be
charged at least every 30 days to maintain its
service life.
If you do not remove the battery, we recommend
disconnecting the battery cables (negative cable
first).
You will get the best storage results from removing
the battery and slow charging it every 30 days (see
Battery Charging on page 100).
Before you remove the battery, be sure to read all
the information that follows, as well as the
information on the battery label.
The battery is located under the seat.
Removal
1. Remove the seat (page 36).
2. Remove the battery band (1).
3. Remove the positive terminal cover (2).
4. Disconnect the negative (–) terminal (3) first,
then the positive (+) terminal (4) and remove
the battery (5).
5. Unless you have been riding regulary, charge
the battery (see page 100).
6. Store your battery in an easy-to-reach location
off the floor, in an area protected from freezing
temperatures and direct sunlight.
7. Clean the battery box after removing the
battery for storage. Dry the battery box.
8. Slow charge the battery (see page 100) once
every 30 days.
Installation
1. Reinstall in the reverse order of removal. Be
sure to connect the positive (+) terminal first,
then the negative (–) terminal.
2. Check all bolts and other fasteners are secure.
Battery Storage
WARNING
The battery gives off explosive hydrogen
gas during normal operation.
A spark or flame can cause the battery to
explode with enough force to kill or
seriously hurt you.
Wear protective clothing and a face
shield, or have a skilled mechanic do the
battery maintenance.
(1) battery band (4) positive (+) terminal
(2) positive terminal cover (5) battery
(3) negative (–) terminal
(3)
(4)
(5)
(2)
(1)
100 Servicing Your Honda
Battery
Be sure to read the information that came with
your battery charger and follow the instructions on
the battery. Improper charging may damage the
battery.
We recommended using a charger (1) designed
specifically for your Honda, which can be
purchased from your dealer. These units can be left
connected for long periods without risking damage
to the battery. However, do not intentionally leave
the charge connected longer than the time period
recommended in the charger’s instructions.
Avoid using an automotive-type battery charger.
An automotive charger can overheat a motorcycle
battery and cause permanent damage.
Battery Charging
(1) charger
(1)
Headlight & Taillight
Servicing Your Honda 101
Headlight & Taillight
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
1. Remove the front visor bolts (1) and pull out
the front visor (2).
2. Disconnect the headlight connector (3).
Remove the dust cover (4).
3. To pull the headlight bulb out, push and turn
the headlight bulb socket (5)
counterclockwise.
4. To install a new headlight bulb, push and turn
the headlight bulb socket clockwise.
If you touch the bulb with your bare hands, clean it
with a cloth moistened with denatured alcohol to
prevent early bulb failure.
5. Install the dust cover (4) tightly against the
headlight unit with its “TOP” mark (6) facing
up.
6. To install the headlight, reverse the removal
procedure.
The headlight aim can be raised or lowered.
Turn the adjusting screw (1) clockwise to move the
headlight up or turn the adjusting screw
counterclockwise to move the headlight down to
proper adjustment.
The taillight uses LED illumination.
If the taillight does not function properly, see your
dealer for service.
This model is equipped with an electric starter and
battery for easy engine starting.
There is a possibility of damage to the lighting
system if the battery is carelessly removed.
Never kick-start the engine without the battery
connected.
If it becomes necessary to kick-start the engine
with the battery removed, remove the relays to the
battery to prevent damage to the lighting.
Headlight Bulb
(1) front visor bolts
(2) front visor
(3) headlight connector
(4) dust cover
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
(5) headlight bulb socket
(4) dust cover (6) “TOP” mark
(5)
(4)
(6)
Headlight Aim
(1) adjusting screw
Taillight
(1)
Appearance Care
102 Servicing Your Honda
Appearance Care
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 25.
Frequent cleaning and polishing will keep your
Honda looking newer longer. Frequent cleaning
also identifies you as an owner who values his
motorcycle. A clean CRF is also easier to inspect
and service.
While you’re cleaning, be sure to look for damage,
wear, and gasoline or oil leaks.
• To clean your CRF you may use:
– water
– a mild, neutral detergent and water
– a mild spray and wipe cleaner/polisher
– a mild spray and rinse cleaner/degreaser and
water
• Avoid products that contain harsh detergents
or chemical solvents that could damage the
metal, paint, and plastic on your CRF or
discolor the seat and decals.
• If your CRF is still warm from recent
operation, give the engine and exhaust system
time to cool off.
• We recommend the use of a low pressure
garden hose to wash your CRF. High pressure
washers (like those at coin-operated car
washes) can damage certain parts of your CRF.
The force of water under extreme pressure can
penetrate the dust seals of the suspension pivot
points and steering head bearings-driving dirt
inside and needed lubrication out.
If you use a high pressure washer, avoid spraying
the following areas:
wheel hubs
muffler outlet
under seat
engine stop button
brake master cylinders
under fuel tank
drive chain
carburetor
steering head bearings
suspension pivot points
NOTICE
High pressure water (or air) can damage certain
parts of your CRF.
You may use Pro Honda Hondabrite, a multi-
surface cleaner/degreaser, to remove both dirt and
petroleum-based grime from paint, alloy, plastic,
and rubber surfaces. Wet any heavy deposits with
water first. Then spray on the Pro Honda
Hondabrite and rinse with a garden hose at full
pressure. Stubborn deposits may require a quick
wipe with a sponge.
1. Rinse your CRF thoroughly with cool water to
remove loose dirt.
2. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild,
neutral detergent, such as dish washing liquid
or a product made especially for washing
motorcycles or automobiles.
3. Wash your CRF with a sponge or a soft towel.
As you wash, check for heavy grime. If
necessary, use a mild cleaner/degreaser to
remove the grime.
NOTICE
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it could
damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch-Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) is for removing stains on the non-
coated aluminum frame only.
4. After washing, rinse your CRF thoroughly
with plenty of clean water to remove any
residue.
5. Dry your CRF with a chamois or a soft towel.
6. Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
7. Start the engine and let it idle for several
minutes. The engine heat will help dry moist
areas.
8. As a precaution, ride at a slow speed and apply
the brakes several times. This will help dry the
brakes and restore normal braking
performance.
If the inside of the headlight lens appears clouded
immediately after washing, it should cleaner after
a few minutes of riding.
General Recommendations
(1) steering head bearings
(2) suspension pivot points
(2)
(1)
Washing Your Motorcycle with a Mild
Detergent
Servicing Your Honda 103
Appearance Care
Some condensation can form within the
transmission cavity as well. This is natural and just
one more reason you should change the engine and
transmission oil often.
There are some things you should do just after
washing your CRF to help prevent rust and
corrosion.
Once your CRF is clean and dry, you should
protect any bare steel from rusting by applying a
light coating of a rust-inhibitor. Lubricate the drive
chain and drive sprocket after removing and
thoroughly cleaning in solvent. Be sure the chain is
wiped clean and is dry before applying the chain
lube.
Follow the suggestions given in the pages of this
manual for lubricating items such as the brake and
clutch lever pivot points and footpeg pivot pins.
Aluminum corrodes when it comes in contact with
dust, mud and road salt.
To remove stains, use Scotch-Brite Hand Pad
#7447 (maroon) or an equivalent.
Wet the pad and polish the surface using strokes
parallel to the length of the frame.
Clean the frame using a wet sponge and a mild
detergent, then rinse well with clean water. Dry the
frame with a soft clean cloth, using strokes parallel
to the length of the frame.
NOTICE
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it could
damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch-Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) is for removing stains on the non-
coated aluminum frame only.
The exhaust pipe and muffler are stainless steel,
but may became stained by mud or dust.
To remove mud or dust, use a wet sponge and a
liquid kitchen abrasive, then rinse well with clean
water. Dry with chamois or a soft towel.
If necessary, remove heat stains by using a
commercially available fine texture compound.
Then rinse by the same manner as removing mud
or dust.
Condensation Control
After Cleaning Lubrication
Aluminum Frame Maintenance Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Maintenance
104 Servicing Your Honda
Blank page
Adjustments for Competition
Adjustments for Competition 105
Adjustments for Competition
This section tells you how to fine tune your CRF
for maximum competition performance.
Initial suspension adjustments should be
performed after a minimum of two hours of easy
break-in time.
Optional front and rear suspension springs are
available in both stiffer and softer than standard
rates, in order to tailor your CRF specifically for
your weight, riding style and course conditions.
Follow the instructions given in the rear
suspension sag setting section of Rear Suspension
Adjustments to determine if your combined rider
and sprung machine weight (rider fully dressed for
competition and machine coolant, oil and fuel
levels ready for competition) requires an optional
stiffer or softer rear spring.
The need for either optional rear spring may need
to be balanced by installing the optional fork
springs of a similar rate.
Front Suspension Adjustments ......................106
Rear Suspension Adjustments........................120
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions ......................................................124
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines ...............125
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips..........128
Chassis Adjustments ......................................135
Gearing...........................................................136
Tire Selection for Track Conditions ..............137
Personal Fit Adjustments ...............................138
Front Suspension Adjustments
106 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
The front suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s
weight and riding conditions by using one or more
of the following methods:
• Oil volume — The effects of higher or
lower fork oil level are only felt during the
final 3.9 in (100 mm) of fork travel.
• Compression damping — Turning the
compression damping screw adjusts how
quickly the fork compresses.
• Rebound damping — Turning the rebound
damping screw adjusts how quickly the fork
extends.
• Fork springs — Optional springs are
available in softer and stiffer types than the
standard rate. (page 163)
The inverted fork on your CRF features sealed
damper cartridges with dual (separate air and oil)
chambers to prevent aeration. The design also
isolates the oil in each fork tube/slider, which may
contain air bubbles and/or metal particles, from the
sealed cartridge to provide more consistent
damping.
Air is an unstable gas which builds up pressure as
it is worked (such as in a fork). Air pressure acts as
a progressive spring and affects the entire range of
fork travel. This means the fork action on your
CRF will get stiffer during a race. For this reason,
release built-up air pressure in the fork legs
between motos. Be sure the fork is fully extended
with the front tire off the ground when you release
the pressure.
The standard air pressure is 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm
2
).
You may relieve accumulated air pressure in the
fork legs by using the pressure release screws. The
front wheel should be off the ground before you
release the pressure.The air pressure should be
adjusted according to the altitude and outside
temperature. The air pressure should be adjusted
according to the altitude and outside temperature.
1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support with the front wheel off the
ground.
2. Remove the pressure release screw (1).
3. Check that the O-ring (2) is in good condition.
4. Install and tighten the pressure release screw to
the specified torque:
0.9 lbf·ft (1.2 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
Rebound Damping Adjustment
The fork rebound damping adjuster (1) has 16
positions or more. Turning the adjuster screw one
full turn clockwise advances the adjuster four
positions. To adjust the rebound damping to the
standard setting, proceed as follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 15 clicks.
Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
Compression Damping Adjustment
This adjustment affects how quickly the fork
compresses. The fork compression damping
adjuster (2) screw has 16 positions or more.
Turning the adjuster one full turn changes the
adjuster four positions. To adjust the adjuster to the
standard position, proceed as follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 7 clicks.
Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
(1) compression damping adjuster
(2) rebound damping adjuster
(1)
(2)
Front Suspension Air Pressure
(1) pressure release screw (2) O-ring
(2)
(1)
Front Suspension Damping
Adjustments for Competition 107
Front Suspension Adjustments
Both compression and rebound damping can be
increased by turning the adjuster clockwise.
NOTICE
Always start with full hard when adjusting
damping.
Do not turn the adjuster screw more than the given
positions or the adjuster may be damaged.
Be sure that the rebound and compression
adjusters are firmly located in a detent, and not
between positions.
The fork springs in CRF’s are about right for riders
weighing between 150 and 160 lb (less riding
gear). So if you're a heavier rider, you have to go
up on the oil level or get a stiffer spring. Do not use
less oil than the minimum specified for each spring
or there will be a loss of rebound damping control
near full extension. If the fork is too hard on big
bumps, turn the damping adjuster
counterclockwise 1-turn and lower the oil level in
increments of 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
) in both fork legs
until the desired performance is obtained. Do not,
however, lower the oil level below the minimum
oil level.
Minimum oil capacity:
Standard spring: 10.2 US oz (303 cm
3
)
Softer spring: 10.4 US oz (308 cm
3
)
Stiffer spring: 10.3 US oz (306 cm
3
)
When adjusting oil levels, bear in mind that the air
in the fork will increase in pressure while riding;
therefore, the higher the oil level, the higher the
eventual pressure of any air in the fork.
• If your CRF is brand-new, put enough part-
throttle break-in time (about one hour) on it to
ensure that the suspension has worked in.
• For optimum performance, and extended fork
life, the fork should be completely disassembled
and cleaned after the first three hours of riding.
See the Service Manual or your dealer for this
service.
• When disassembling the fork, turn the rebound
(1) and compression (2) damping adjusters
counterclockwise to the softest position to
prevent damaging the adjustment needle (be sure
to record the number of turns from the starting
position).
(1) rebound damping
adjuster
(2) compression damping
adjuster
(1)
(2)
Fork Springs
Force (N)
Stroke (mm)
Oil capacity 13.5 US oz (399 cm
3
)
(MAX)
Oil capacity 11.7 US oz (345 cm
3
)
(STANDARD)
Oil capacity 10.2 US oz (303 cm
3
)
(MIN)
Front Suspension Disassembly
(1) rebound damping
adjuster
(2) compression damping
adjuster
(1)
(2)
108 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
1. Place your CRF on the optional workstand or
equivalent support with the front wheel off the
ground.
2. Remove the front visor bolts (3) and front visor
(4).
3. Disconnect the headlight connector (5).
4. Remove the handlebar pad.
Remove the handlebar holder nuts, washers,
mounting rubbers (6) and handlebar (7).
NOTICE
Keep the master cylinder upright to prevent air
from entering system.
5. Loosen the upper pinch bolts (8).
6. Loosen the fork dampers (9) using the lock nut
wrench but do not remove it yet.
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
NOTICE
Do not use an adjustable wrench to loosen the fork
damper: it may damage them.
7. Remove the disc cover (10) by removing the
bolts (11).
8. Remove the tripmeter cable (12) and front axle
nut (13) and loosen the axle pinch bolts (14) on
both fork legs.
9. Pull the front axle shaft (15) out of the wheel
hub and remove the front wheel.
10. Remove the fork protector bolts (16), tripmeter
cable clamp bolts (17) and brake hose clamp
bolts (18) and fork protectors (19).
Remove the brake caliper bolts (20) and brake
caliper (21).
The fork protector bolts and brake caliper bolts
have a locking agent applied.
(3) front visor bolts
(4) front visor
(5) headlight connector
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6) handlebar holder nuts/washers/mounting rubbers
(7) handlebar
(8) upper pinch bolts
(9) fork damper
(7)
(6)
(8)
(9)
(10) disc cover
(11) bolts
(12) tripmeter cable (14) axle pinch bolts
(13) front axle nut (15) front axle shaft
(10)
(11)
(14)
(15)
(12)
(14)
(13)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 109
Do not support the brake caliper by the brake hose.
Do not operate the front brake lever after the front
wheel is removed. To do so will cause difficulty in
fitting the brake disc between the brake pads.
11. Loosen the fork leg lower pinch bolts (22),
then pull the fork legs down and out.
12. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding
surface (23) of the slider and dust seal (24).
13. Record the rebound damping adjuster position
and turn the adjuster counterclockwise until it
stops.
14. Measure the length (25) between the axle
holder and outer tube and record it before
disassembling the fork.
15. Hold the outer tube (26), then remove the fork
damper (27) from the outer tube using the lock
nut wrench (28). Gently slide the outer tube
down onto the lower end of the slider (29).
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
NOTICE
The outer tube (26) can drop on the slider (30) and
damage the fork dust seal (24) and guide bushing
(31) when the fork damper is removed.
To avoid damage hold both the outer tube and
slider when removing the fork damper.
16. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube (26).
Drain the fork oil from the oil hole (32) of the
fork damper.
(16) fork protector bolts (19) fork protectors
(17) tripmeter cable clamp bolts (20) brake caliper bolts
(18) brake hose clamp bolts (21) brake caliper
(22) lower pinch bolts
(19)
(16)
(20)
(20)
(21)
(18)
(17)
(22)
(23) sliding surface (25) length
(24) dust seal
(26) outer tube (28) lock nut wrench
(27) fork damper (29) slider, lower end
(25)
(24) (23)
(28)
(26)
(29)
(26)
(27)
(24) dust seal (30) slider
(26) outer tube (31) guide bushing
(26) outer tube (32) oil hole
(30)
(24)
(31)
(26)
(26) (32)
110 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
17. Temporarily install the fork damper to the
outer tube.
18. Set the lower end (axle holder) (33) of the
slider in a vise with a piece of wood or soft
jaws to avoid damage.
NOTICE
Over-tightening the vise can damage the axle
holder.
19. Loosen the fork center bolt (34).
20. Push out the fork center bolt from the axle
holder of the slider by pushing the fork
damper.
21. Make the mechanic's stopper tool out of a thin
piece of steel 0.08 in (2.0 mm) thick as shown
if you do not have the piston base.
22. Apply pressure to the fork damper and insert a
piston base (35) or mechanic's stopper tool (see
below) between the axle holder (33) and lock
nut (36).
23. Hold the lock nut and remove the fork center
bolt (34) from the fork damper.
NOTICE
Do not remove the lock nut from the fork damper
piston rod. If the lock nut is removed, the piston
rod will fall in the fork damper and you can not
reassemble the fork damper.
24. Remove the push rod (37) from the fork
damper.
25. Remove the piston base or mechanic's stopper
tool between the axle holder (33) and lock nut
(36) while applying pressure to the fork cap.
NOTICE
Be careful not to damage the lock nut and fork
center bolt hole.
26. Remove the fork damper assembly (38) from
the fork assembly (39).
Remove the fork from the vise.
Remove the fork spring (40) from the fork
assembly.
(33) axle holder (34) fork center bolt
(34)
(33)
2.2 in (55 mm)
1.0 in (25 mm)
1.2 in (30 mm)
0.48 in (12.2 mm)
R0.24 in (6.1 mm)
(33) axle holder (35) piston base
(34) fork center bolt (36) lock nut
(33)
(35)
(36)
(34)
(33) axle holder (37) push rod
(36) lock nut
(38) fork damper assembly (40) fork spring
(39) fork assembly
(33)
(37)
(36)
(38)
(40)
(39)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 111
1. Place the fork damper (2) in a vise with a piece
of wood or soft jaws to avoid damage.
2. Loosen the fork cap assembly (1) while
holding the fork damper (2) using the lock nut
wrench (3).
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
3. Remove the fork cap assembly (1) from the
fork damper (2).
Be careful not to damage the fork cap bushing.
Do not disassemble the fork cap assembly.
Replace the fork cap as an assembly if it is
damaged.
4. Empty the fork oil from the oil hole (3) of the
fork damper (2) by pumping the damper rod
several times.
5. Clean the fork cap and fork damper threads.
6. Extend the fork damper piston rod to
maximum.
Pour the recommended fork oil into the fork
damper (2).
Recommended Oil:
Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W or equivalent
Recommended Amount:
6.5 US oz (192 cc, 6.8 Imp oz)
7. Pump the fork damper piston rod (4) slowly
several times to bleed the air from the fork
damper (2).
Damper Oil Change
(1) fork cap assembly (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork damper
(2)
(3)
(1)
(1) fork cap assembly (2) fork damper
(2) fork damper (3) oil hole
(1)
(2)
(2)
(3)
(2) fork damper
(2) fork damper (4) fork damper piston rod
(2)
(2)
(4)
112 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
8. Extend the fork damper piston rod to
maximum. Adjust the oil level of the fork
damper (2) as shown.
Oil Level: 1.65 – 1.85 in (42 – 47 mm)
9. Apply fork oil to the bushing (5) and new O-
rings (6) on the fork cap assembly (1). Extend
the fork damper piston rod to maximum,
holding it, install the fork cap assembly to the
fork damper (2).
Be careful not to damage the fork cap bushing.
If it is difficult to install the fork cap assembly, the
fork damper oil level might be higher than standard
oil level. Inspect the fork damper oil level again.
10. Place the fork damper (2) in a vise with a piece
of wood or soft jaws to avoid damage. Tighten
the fork cap assembly (1) while holding the cut
out of the fork damper using the lock nut
wrench (3) to the specified torque:
22 Ibf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
11. Hold the fork damper (2) in an upright position
and pump the fork damper piston rod (4) to 3.9
in (100 mm) slowly several times.
12. Screw in the lock nut (7) to the fork damper
piston rod (4) fully.
Turn the rebound adjuster and compression
adjuster counterclockwise to the softest position.
Check the fork damper piston rod sliding surface
for damage.
Apply fork oil to the fork damper piston rod sliding
surface.
Cover the fork damper piston rod end with soft
jaws to prevent fork damage.
NOTICE
Be careful not to bend or damage the fork damper
piston rod when the piston rod is stroked.
(2) fork damper
(1) fork cap assembly (5) bushing
(2) fork damper (6) O-rings
1.65 – 1.85 in
(42 – 47 mm)
(2)
(2)
(6)
(1)
(5)
(1) fork cap assembly (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork damper
(2) fork damper (4) fork damper piston rod
(2)
(3)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(4) fork damper piston rod (7) lock nut
(4)
(7)
Adjustments for Competition 113
Front Suspension Adjustments
13. Blow the extra oil off to the fork damper spring
chamber (8) by pumping the fork damper
piston rod to full stroke.
14. Drain the extra oil from the oil hole (9).
By doing this procedure, about 0.6 US oz (17 cm
3
)
of fork fluid will be drained from the damper
spring chamber through the oil hole and cause 5.9
US oz (175 cm
3
) of fork fluid to be left in the
chamber.
15. Blow out the oil from the fork damper spring
chamber using compressed air to the oil hole.
Wipe the oil completely off the fork damper.
16. If you can not use compressed air, remove the
pressure release screw (10) on the fork cap
(11).
Hold the fork damper up side down for 10
minutes and drain the oil from the fork damper
spring chamber.
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 143).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
(8) fork damper spring chamber
(8)
(9) oil hole
(9)
(10) pressure release screw (11) fork cap
(10)
(11)
114 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
1. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube/slider (1)
by placing it upside down.
(About 7 cc of fork oil will be left in the outer
tube/slider when it is left inverted for about 20
minutes at 20°C)
2. Tighten the lock nut (2) fully and measure the
thread length (A) as shown.
Standard: 0.43 – 0.51 in (11 – 13 mm)
Wipe the oil completely off the fork damper.
3. Using compressed air, blow all oil off the fork
spring (3).
Install the fork spring.
Install the fork damper assembly (4) to the
outer tube/slider (1).
Fork Assembly
(1) outer tube/slider
(1)
Amount of fork oil left in the fork
(without damper and spring) unit: cc
minute
°C/°F
30/86
20/68
10/50
0/32
5
7.1
10.6
11.8
12.9
10
5.9
8.2
8.3
10.6
20
4.7
7.1
7.2
9.4
35
4.2
5.9
6.2
8.2
55
3.5
5.6
5.8
7.9
85
3.5
4.7
4.9
7.1
145
3.5
4.7
4.8
5.9
(2) lock nut (A) thread length
(1) outer tube/slider (4) fork damper assembly
(3) fork spring
(2)
(A)
(4)
(3)
(1)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 115
4. Place the lower end (axle holder) of the slider
in a vise with a piece of wood or soft jaws to
avoid to damage.
NOTICE
Over-tightening the vise can damage the axle
holder.
5. Temporarily install the fork damper to the fork.
Push out the fork damper piston rod from the
axle holder of the slider by pushing the fork
damper.
Apply pressure to the fork damper and insert
the piston base (5) or mechanic's stopper tool
between the axle holder and lock nut (2).
Measure the thread length again.
Standard: 0.43 – 0.51 in (11 – 13 mm)
6. Install the push rod (6) into the fork damper
piston rod until it stops.
Check the push rod installation by turning the
push rod right and left.
7. Apply fork oil to a new O-ring (7) and install it
to the fork center bolt (8). Install the fork
center bolt to the fork damper piston rod
aligning the fork center bolt adjusting rod (9)
with the push rod. Tighten the fork center bolt
fully by hand.
8. Measure the length of the lock nut (2) and fork
center bolt (8) clearance.
Standard: 0.06 – 0.08 in (1.5 – 2.0 mm)
If the clearance is out of specification, check the
lock nut and center bolt installation.
9. Tighten the lock nut (2) to the fork center bolt
(8) closely by hand. Tighten the lock nut to the
specified torque:
16 Ibf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
10. Remove the piston base or mechanic's stopper
tool while applying pressure to the fork
damper.
Install the fork center bolt (8) to the axle holder
and tighten it to the specified torque:
51 Ibf·ft (69 N·m, 7.0 kgf·m)
11. Measure the length between the axle holder
and outer tube.
Standard: 12.5 in ± 0.1 in (317 ± 2 mm)
12. Compare the length (10) at assembly and at
disassembly. They should be the same length.
If the length at assembly is longer than at
disassembly, check the fork center bolt and lock
nut installation.
(2) lock nut (7) O-ring
(5) piston base (8) fork center bolt
(6) push rod (9) adjusting rod
(8)
(7)
(9)
(5)
(2)
(6)
(2) lock nut (8) fork center bolt
(2) lock nut
(8) fork center bolt
(2)
(8)
(8)
(2)
(8) fork center bolt
(10) length
(8)
(10)
116 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
13. Pour the recommended fork oil (11) into the
outer tube/slider (1).
Recommended Oil:
Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W or equivalent.
Fork Oil Capacity:
Standard 23.53 lbf/in (4.12 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Softer 22.38 lbf/in (3.92 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 24.61 lbf/in (4.31 N/mm) Fork Spring
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
legs.
(1) outer tube/slider (11) fork oil
(1)
(11)
Standard oil
capacity
11.7 US oz
(345 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.5 US oz
(399 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.2 US oz
(303 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(350 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.7 US oz
(404 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.4 US oz
(308 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
or
No mark
(factory products)
2 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
3 scribe marks
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(348 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.6 US oz
(402 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.3 US oz
(306 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 scribe mark
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 117
14. Install a new O-ring (12) on the fork damper
assembly (4). Apply the recommended fork oil
to the O-ring.
15. Pull up the outer tube/slider (1) slowly and
install the fork damper assembly (4) into the
outer tube.
16. Insert both fork legs into the fork clamps.
Tighten the fork lower pinch bolts (13) to the
specified torque.
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
17. Tighten the fork damper assembly (4) to the
specified torque using the lock nut wrench
(14).
Actual:
25 Ibf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
Torque wrench scale reading:
23 Ibf·ft (31 N·m, 3.2 kgf·m), using a 20 in
(50 cm) long torque wrench.
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
When using the lock nut wrench, use a 20 in
(50 cm) long deflecting beam type torque
wrench. The lock nut wrench increases the
torque wrench’s leverage, so the torque
wrench reading will be less than the torque
actually applied to the fork damper.
18. For ease of releasing air pressure after the forks
are installed, Loosen the lower pinch bolts and
position the outer tubes so that the pressure
release screws are in front of the rebound
damping adjusters.
Align (15) the top surface of the upper fork
clamp (16) with the outer tube (1) upper
surface as shown.
19. Tighten the fork lower pinch bolts (13) to the
specified torque:
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
20. Tighten the fork upper pinch bolts (17) to the
specified torque:
16 Ibf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Over-tightening the pinch bolts can deform the
outer tubes. Deformed outer tubes must be
replaced.
(1) outer tube/slider (12) O-ring
(4) fork damper assembly
(13) lower pinch bolts
(12)
(4)
(1)
(13)
(4) fork damper assembly (14) lock nut wrench
(4)
(14)
(1) outer tube (16) upper fork clamp
(15) align
(13) lower pinch bolts (17) upper pinch bolts
(16)
(15)
(1)
(17)
(13)
118 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
21. Clean the threads of the fork protector bolts
(18) and axle holder thoroughly.
Apply locking agent to the fork protector bolt
threads.
Install the fork protectors (19), fork protector
bolts, brake hose clamp bolts (20) and
tripmeter cable clamp bolts (21).
Tighten the fork protector bolts to the specified
torque:
5.2 Ibf·ft (7 N·m, 0.7 kgf·m)
22. Align the brake caliper (23) and hose with the
left fork leg, making sure that the brake hose is
not twisted. An improperly routed brake hose
may rupture and cause a loss of braking
efficiency. Route the hose carefully.
23. Clean the threads of the caliper mounting bolts
(22) and brake caliper thoroughly.
Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
Install the brake caliper (23) on the slider and
tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the
specified torque:
22 Ibf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
24. Check the left side collar (24) and tripmeter
gear box (25) for wear or damage.
Install the left side collar to the left wheel hub.
Install the tripmeter gear box while aligning its
tabs (26) of the tripmeter gear box with the
grooves (27) on the right wheel hub.
25. Clean the clamping surface of the axle and axle
holders.
Install the front wheel (28) between the fork
legs while inserting the disc between the pads,
and align (29) the tab of the tripmeter gear box
as shown.
Check that the tripmeter gear box O-ring (30)
is in good condition, replace it if necessary.
Apply a thin layer of grease to the axle (31) and
insert the axle from the right side.
26. Install and tighten the axle nut (32) to the
specified torque.
65 Ibf·ft (88 N·m, 9.0 kgf·m)
Tighten the left axle pinch bolts (33) to the
specified torque.
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
27. Install the handlebar (34), mounting rubbers,
washers and handlebar holder nuts (35) and
tighten the handlebar holder nuts to the
specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
(18) fork protector bolts
(19) fork protectors
(20) brake hose clamp bolts
(21) tripmeter cable clamp bolts
(22) caliper mounting bolts
(23) brake caliper
(19)
(18)
(22)
(22)
(23)
(20)
(21)
(24) left side collar (26) tabs
(25) tripmeter gear box (27) grooves
(28) front wheel (30) O-ring
(29) align (31) axle
(24)
(25)
(26)
(27)
(30)
(31)
(29)
(28)
(32) axle nut
(33) left axle pinch bolts
(34) handlebar
(35) mounting rubber/washers/handlebar holder nuts
(32)
(33)
(35)
(34)
Adjustments for Competition 119
Front Suspension Adjustments
28. Install the front visor by aligning its grommets
(36) with the tabs (37) on the steering stem.
29. Connect the headlight connector (38).
30. Install and tighten the front visor bolts (39).
Install the handlebar pad (40).
31. With the front brake applied, pump the fork up
and down several times to seat the axle and
check front brake operation.
32. While keeping the forks parallel, alternately
tighten the right axle pinch bolts (41) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2,0 kgf·m)
NOTICE
To avoid damage when torquing the axle pinch
bolts, be sure the axle is seated firmly onto the left
fork leg clamp inner surface.
33. Install the tripmeter cable (42) and tighten the
lock nut securely.
34. Install the disc cover (43) and tighten the bolts
(44) to the specified torque:
10 Ibf·ft (13 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)
35. Turn the rebound damping (45) and
compression damping (46) adjuster back to
their original setting.
(36) front visor grommets (38) headlight connector
(37) tabs
(39) front visor bolts (40) handlebar pad
(37)
(36)
(38)
(40)
(39)
(41) right axle pinch bolts (42) tripmeter cable
(42)
(41)
(43) disc cover (44) bolts
(45) rebound damping
adjuster
(46) compression damping
adjuster
(43)
(44)
(45)
(46)
Rear Suspension Adjustments
120 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustments
The rear suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s
weight and riding conditions by changing the
spring pre-load and the rebound and compression
damping.
The rear shock absorber assembly includes a
damper unit that contains high pressure nitrogen
gas. Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or
dispose of the damper; see your dealer. The
instructions found in this owner’s manual are
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only.
Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in an
explosion, causing serious injury.
Service or disposal should only be done by your
dealer or a qualified mechanic, equipped with the
proper tools, safety equipment and the Honda
Service Manual.
If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle break-
in time (about one hour) on it to ensure that the
suspension has worked in.
Pre-load should be adjusted when the engine is
cold because it is necessary to remove the muffler
(page 62).
An optional pin spanner is available for turning the
lock nut and adjusting nut to adjust spring pre-
load.
1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support with the rear wheel off the
ground.
2. Loosen the connecting tube clamp screw and
subframe mounting upper bolt, and remove the
rear subframe mounting lower bolts, then lift
the subframe. See page 39.
3. Check that the spring pre-load is adjusted to
the standard length. Adjust as necessary by
loosening the lock nut (1) and turning the
adjusting nut (2).
Each complete turn of the adjusting nut
changes the spring length by 0.06 in (1.5 mm).
4. After adjustment, hold the adjusting nut and
tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
To increase spring pre-load:
Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin spanners
(3) and turn the adjusting nut to shorten the spring
length (4). Do not shorten to less than:
9.6 in (243 mm)
To decrease spring pre-load:
Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin spanners
(3) and turn the adjusting nut to increase the spring
length (4). Do not increase to more than:
10.14 in (257.6 mm)
Each turn of the adjuster changes spring length and
spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring length/
spring pre-load:
0.06 in (1.5 mm)/15.9 lbf (70.6 N)
Pin spanners should be used for turning the lock
nut and adjusting nut. See page 163 for optional
pin spanners.
Spring pre-load length (Standard spring)
Standard :10.10 in (256.6 mm)
Min. : 9.6 in (243 mm)
Spring pre-load length (Optional spring)
Min. (Softer, 254.7 lbf/in (44.6 N/mm)):
9.7 in (246 mm)
Min. (Stiffer, 279.8 lbf/in (49.0 N/mm)):
9.7 in (246 mm)
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load
(1) lock nut (3) pin spanners
(2) adjusting nut (4) spring length
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
Adjustments for Competition 121
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Compression Damping
Compression damping may be adjusted in two
stages with separate adjusters.
The high speed damping adjuster (1) is effective
when damping adjustment is desired for high
speed operation. The low speed damping adjuster
(2) should be used when damping adjustment is
desired at relatively low speeds.
• Both the high and low speed compression
damping can be increased by turning the
appropriate adjuster clockwise.
• Adjust the high speed compression adjuster in
1/12 turn increments.
• Be sure the low speed compression adjuster is
firmly located in a detent, and not between
positions.
High Speed Damping:
The high speed damping can be adjusted by
turning the hexagonal portion of the compression
adjuster.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard
setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 3/4 –
2 1/4 turns and the punch marks are aligned.
Low Speed Damping:
The low speed damping can be adjusted by turning
the center screw of the compression adjuster.
The low speed compression adjuster has 13
positions or more.
Turning the adjuster one full turn clockwise
advances the adjuster 4 positions.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard
setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 12 clicks
and the punch marks are aligned.
Rebound Damping
The rebound damping adjuster (3) is located at the
lower end of the shock absorber.
It has 17 positions or more. Turning the adjuster
one full turn advances the adjuster 4 positions.
• Rebound damping can be increased by turning
the adjuster clockwise.
• Be sure that the rebound adjuster is firmly
located in a detent, and not between positions.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard
position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 11 – 14
clicks with the punch marks on the adjuster and
the shock absorber aligned.
Rear Suspension Damping
(1) high speed damping adjuster
(2) low speed damping adjuster
(1)
(2)
(3) rebound damping adjuster
1
(3)
122 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very
important for competition use.
Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel travel
used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride, with you
on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, the race sag
dimension should be about one-third of the
maximum travel.
On your CRF, ride height is changed by adjusting
the rear suspension spring pre-load.
Spring Pre-load & Race Sag Adjustment
The following adjustment procedure establishes
the correct starting point for any suspension tuning
— the proper rear spring pre-load adjustment for
your specific needs.
Your CRF should be at normal racing weight,
including fuel and transmission oil. You should be
wearing all your normal protective apparel.
You will need two helpers.
To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary
to measure between two fixed points — from the
center of the rear fender mounting bolt to the
center of the chain adjuster lock nut as illustrated
here — for three different situations:
unloaded: motorcycle on workstand with rear
suspension fully extended, no rider.
loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with
rider.
loaded without rider: CRF on ground, without
rider
1. Support your motorcycle on a workstand with
the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Measure the unloaded dimension.
3. Measure the loaded with rider dimension.
Remove the workstand. With two helpers
available, sit as far forward as possible on your
CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel. Ask
one helper to steady your CRF perfectly
upright so you can put both feet on the pegs.
Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of
times to help the suspension overcome any
situation and settle to a good reference point.
Ask the other helper to measure the loaded
with rider dimension.
Example:
4. Calculate the race sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the loaded with rider
dimension (step 3) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Standard Race Sag: 3.9 in (100 mm)
Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain
the desired handling results.
Decreasing the race sag dimension (example:
3.5 in, 90 mm) improves turning ability for
tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced
straight line stability.
Increasing the race sag dimension (example:
4.3 in, 110 mm) may improve stability on
faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce
turning performance slightly and may upset the
balance between the front and rear suspension,
producing a harsher ride. This will happen if
the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel
toward the more progressive end of its range.
5. Measure the loaded without rider dimension.
Do this with your CRF set at the standard race
sag.
Example:
Rear Suspension Race Sag
Unloaded = 23.6 in (600 mm)
– Loaded = 19.7 in (500 mm)
Race Sag = 3.9 in (100 mm)
UNLOADED MEASUREMENT
(without rider)
EXAMPLE: 23.6 in (600 mm)
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
LOADED
(with rider)
EXAMPLE: 19.7 in (500 mm)
Unloaded = 23.6 in (600 mm)
– Loaded = 21.7 in (550 mm)
Sag = 2.0 in (50 mm)
(Without Rider)
BIKE LOADED
(without rider)
EXAMPLE: 21.7 in (550 mm)
Adjustments for Competition 123
Rear Suspension Adjustments
6. Calculate the free sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the loaded without rider
dimension (step 5) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Free sag indicates the distance your rear
suspension should sag from the weight of the
sprung portion of your CRF.
With the spring pre-load set to obtain the
proper race sag, the rear suspension should sag
0.4 to 1.0 in (10 to 25 mm).
If the rear of your CRF sags less than 0.4 in
(10 mm) from its own weight, the spring is too
stiff for your weight. It is not compressed
enough, even though you have the proper race
sag adjustment. As a result, the rear suspension
will not extend as far as it should.
Spring Rates
If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider
and cannot set the proper ride height without
altering the correct spring pre-load, consider an
aftermarket shock absorber spring.
A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you
to add excessive spring pre-load to get the right
race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the
motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear wheel
to unload too much in the air and top out as travel
rebounds. The rear end may top out from light
braking, or kick sideways over lips and square-
edged terrain. It may even top-out when you
dismount your CRF.
Because of the great absorption quality of the
shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to
notice when your CRF’s suspension is bottoming.
Some riders may think the damping or perhaps the
leverage ratio is too harsh. In reality, the problem
is most likely insufficient spring pre-load or a
spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents
utilizing the full travel.
Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension
system may bottom slightly every few minutes at
full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this
occasional bottoming may cost more in overall
suspension performance than it is worth.
A spring that is too stiff for your weight will not
allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration
and will pass more bumps on to you.
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions
124 Adjustments for Competition
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions
Soft Surface
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider
increasing compression damping front and rear.
Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to
minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps are
usually larger, there’s more distance between
them, giving the shock more time to recover.
You may want a little bit stiffer front suspension
for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and
improve straight-line stability.
In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs front
and rear may help, especially if you are heavier
than the average rider. Your CRF may be under-
sprung because of the added weight of the clinging
mud. This additional weight may compress the
suspension too much and affect traction.
Hard Surface
For a fast, hard track with no large jumps, you can
probably run the same spring as normal, but run
softer damping both ways-compression and
rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the
wheel will follow the rough ground and small
bumps much better, and you will hook up better.
With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns
very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground quickly
enough after each bump. The result is a loss of
traction and slower lap times.
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Adjustments for Competition 125
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF, using the methods described on pages 106 – 124. Remember to make all adjustments in
one-click or 1/12 turn increments. Test ride after each adjustment.
Front Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Sand track Adjust to a stiffer position.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer position.
– Install the optional stiff spring. (Adjust compression damping to a softer position and rebound damping to a stiff position at this
time.)
Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Damping
Symptom Action
Soft suspension Initial travel too soft:
• Steering is too quick.
• Front end darts while cornering or riding in a straight line.
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Test stiffer rebound damping in one-click increments.
Middle travel too soft:
• Front end dives when cornering.
If suspension isn’t stiff in initial travel:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial travel becomes stiff because of the above adjustment:
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring.
Final travel too soft:
• Bottoms on landings.
• Bottoms on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial and middle travel are stiff:
– Install the optional stiff spring.
If initial travel is stiff after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If final travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Increase the fork oil capacity in increments of 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Entire travel too soft:
• Front end shakes.
• Fork bottoms over any type of terrain.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Increase rebound damping in one-click increments.
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
126 Adjustments for Competition
Symptom Action
Stiff suspension Initial travel too stiff:
• Stiff on small bumps while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
• Stiff on small cornering bumps.
• Front end wanders while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Check for dirt in the dust seals. Check the fork oil for any contamination.
If the front end dives while cornering, reduce the rebound damping in one-click
increments. If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring.
If the stiff spring makes the suspension too stiff over the full range of travel:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the
desire compression damping for initial travel is obtained.
Middle travel too stiff:
• Stiff on bumps when cornering.
• Front end wanders when cornering.
• Stiff suspension on bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• While braking, front end dives during initial travel, then feels stiff.
If initial travel isn’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If initial and middle travel is stiff:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
Final travel too stiff:
• Doesn’t bottom on landings, but feels stiff.
• Stiff on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• Stiff on large bumps when cornering.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If final travel is still stiff after the above adjustment, or
If initial and middle travel becomes stiff:
– Install the optional soft spring.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If the entire travel feels stiff after the above adjustment:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the
desired initial travel compression damping is obtained.
– Lower the oil capacity by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Entire travel too stiff:
• Stiff suspension on any type of terrain.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Lower the oil capacity by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Adjustments for Competition 127
Rear Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard settings. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Sand track Lower the rear end (to improve front wheel stability) by increasing Race Sag (reduce spring pre-load).
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster and, especially, rebound damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Increase standard Race Sag (+0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).
Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Adjust the compression and rebound damping adjusters to stiffer settings.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
– Reduce standard Race Sag (–0.2 to 0.4 in/–5 to 10 mm).
Symptoms and Adjustment
• Always begin with the standard settings.
• Turn the low speed compression and rebound adjusters in one-click increments, and the high speed compression adjuster in 1/12 turn increments at a time. Adjusting two or
more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to pass over the best adjustment. Test ride after each adjustment.
• If, after setting, the suspension feels unusual, find the corresponding symptom in the table and test stiffer or softer compression and/or rebound damping adjustments until the
correct settings are obtained as described.
Symptom Action
Stiff suspension Suspension feels stiff on small bumps 1. Test softer low speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
Suspension feels stiff on large bumps 1. Test softer high speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
Entire travel too stiff 1. Test softer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment simultaneously.
2. If it still feels stiff, replace the spring with a softer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to softer
settings.
Soft suspension Entire travel too soft 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
2. If it still feels soft, replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to stiffer
setting.
Rear end sways 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment to stiffer settings
simultaneously.
Suspension
bottoms
Suspension bottoms at landing after
jumping
1. Test stiffer high speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a stiffer
spring (optional) if necessary.
Suspension bottoms after landing 1. Test stiffer low speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a stiffer
spring (optional) if necessary.
Suspension bottoms after end of
continuous bumps
1. Test softer rebound damping adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and softer rebound damping
adjustment, and replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
128 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
The carburetor used on your CRF will seldom
experience trouble with the standard settings under
average load, and average climatic and barometric
conditions. However, to fine-tune the engine’s
power output, the carburetor may require specific
adjustments for competition use.
However, in order to comply with emission
regulations, we recommend that you make no
carburetor changes unless you use your CRF for
competition only.
Cold Start Circuit
A very rich mixture must be delivered to the
cylinder when a cold engine is being started.
When the choke knob (1) is pulled out, fuel is
metered by the starter jet (2) and is mixed with air
from the air passage (3) (located above the throttle
valve (4)) to provide a rich mixture for starting.
The mixture discharges through the orifice (5) into
the cylinder.
Hot Start Circuit
A lean mixture must be delivered to the cylinder
when a hot engine is being started. When the hot
start lever is pulled back, the hot start valve (1)
opens, allowing air to be supplied to the main bore
(2) through the hot start air passage (3). This extra
air enters the air-fuel mixture from the slow circuit
resulting in a lean condition.
Carburetor Components
(1) choke knob (4) throttle valve
(2) starter jet (5) orifice
(3) air passage
(1)
(5)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(1) hot start valve
(2) main bore
(3) hot start air passage
(2)
(1)
(3)
Adjustments for Competition 129
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
Accelerator Pump Circuit
The accelerator pump circuit operates when the
throttle is opened. As the throttle valve (1) opens,
the pump rod (2) depress the diaphragm (3). At this
time, the inlet check valve (4) is shut resulting in a
sharp increase in pressure in the pump chamber
(5). The outlet check valve (6) then opens,
supplying fuel to the main bore via the accelerator
nozzle (7).
Slow Circuit
Fuel is metered by the slow jet (1) and mixed with
air from the air passage (2). The mixture enters the
venturi through the bypass (3) and pilot outlet (4)
that has been metered by the pilot screw (5).
Main Circuit
Fuel is metered by the main jet (1), jet needle (2)
and needle jet (3). It is then mixed with air coming
from the air jet (4) and enters the venturi past the
needle jet.
Baffle Plate
The baffle plate (5) prevents foaming of fuel or
abnormal fuel level around the main jet.
Float Bowl
The float (6) and float valve (7) operate to maintain
a constant level of fuel in the float bowl.
(1) throttle valve (5) pump chamber
(2) pump rod (6) outlet check valve
(3) diaphragm (7) accelerator nozzle
(4) inlet check valve
(3)
(1)
(7)
(6)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(1) slow jet (4) pilot outlet
(2) air passage (5) pilot screw
(3) bypass
(3)
(2)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(1) main jet (5) baffle plate
(2) jet needle (6) float
(3) needle jet (7) float valve
(4) air jet
(2)
(4)
(7)
(6)
(5)
(1)
(3)
130 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
1. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
2. Drain the remaining fuel in the float bowl into
an approved gasoline container by loosening
the carburetor drain screw (1).
Drain the carburetor into an approved gasoline
container and dispose of it in an approved manner
(page 143).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
3. Tighten the carburetor drain screw after drain
the fuel.
4. Remove the fuel tank (page 37).
5. Remove the band (2) and rear suspension
upper mounting nut (3), and pull out the rear
suspension upper mounting bolt (4).
6. Lift the subframe to the upright position
(page 39).
7. Loosen the intake band screw (5) and remove
the clip (6).
8. Disconnect the throttle position sensor
connector (7). Remove the carburetor.
9. Remove the hot start cable holder (8).
Carburetor Removal
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(1) carburetor drain screw
(1)
(2) band
(3) rear suspension upper mounting nut
(4) rear suspension upper mounting bolt
(5) intake band screw
(6) clip
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7) throttle position sensor connector
(8) hot start cable holder
(7)
(8)
Adjustments for Competition 131
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
10. Remove the throttle drum cover bolt (9) and
throttle drum cover (10).
11. Remove the throttle cables (11) by loosening
the throttle cable lock nut (12) and adjusting
nuts (13).
1. Pull up the cable clamp (1) and remove the
carburetor top cover bolts (2).
Then remove the carburetor top cover (3).
2. Remove the jet needle/holder assembly (4)
from the throttle valve (5).
3. Remove the link arm set torx screw (6).
When installing the link arm set torx screw,
apply a locking agent to the link arm set torx
screw threads.
4. Remove the throttle valve (7), throttle valve
roller (8) and floating valve (9).
(9) throttle drum cover bolt
(10) throttle drum cover
(11) throttle cables
(12) throttle cable lock nut
(13) adjusting nuts
(9)
(10)
(12)
(11)
(13)
Carburetor Disassembly
(1) cable clamp
(2) carburetor top cover bolts
(3) carburetor top cover
(4) jet needle/holder assembly
(5) throttle valve
(2)
(1)
(3)
(5)
(4)
(6) link arm torx screw (8) throttle valve roller
(7) throttle valve (9) floating valve
(6)
(7)
(9)
(7)
(8)
132 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
When installing the floating valve (9) onto the
throttle valve (7) make sure the floating valve’s flat
side faces out and the hole (10) faces down.
5. Remove the accelerator pump cover screws
(11) and accelerator pump cover (12).
6. Remove the U-ring (13), O-ring (14), spring
(15) and diaphragm (16).
Clean the diaphragm.
When installing the U-ring into the accelerator
pump cover (12) make sure the U-ring’s flat
side faces down, away from the float bowl
(17).
7. Remove the holder screw (18), throttle stop
screw holder (19), float bowl screws (20), tube
guides (21) and float bowl (17).
8. Remove the pump rod (22).
Clean the pump rod and rod passage (23).
Install the pump rod into the link lever (24).
Push the rod forcibly into the link lever until it
snaps into place.
(7) throttle valve
(9) floating valve
(10) hole
(10)
(7)
(9)
(11) accelerator pump cover screws
(12) accelerator pump cover
(12) accelerator pump cover (15) spring
(13) U-ring (16) diaphragm
(14) O-ring (17) float bowl
(11)
(12)
(13)
(17)
(13)
(12)
(15)
(16)
(14)
(17) float bowl
(18) holder screw
(19) throttle stop screw holder
(20) float bowl screws
(21) tube guides
(22) pump rod (24) link lever
(23) rod passage
(21)
(20)
(18)
(19)
(17)
(24)
(23)
(24)
(22)
(22)
Adjustments for Competition 133
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
9. Measure the float level (25) with the float level
gauge (26) while the float tab is just contacting
the float valve with the carburetor intake (27)
facing up. The float level should be 0.31 in
(8.0 mm).
If the float level is out of specification, adjust
it by bending the float tab carefully.
10. Remove the leak jet (28) from the float bowl
(17).
Clean the leak jet.
To assemble, reverse the disassembly procedures.
To install the carburetor, reverse the removal
procedures.
Tighten the following parts to the specified torque.
float bowl screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
accelerator pump cover screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
carburetor top cover bolts:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
jet needle/holder assembly:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
leak jet:
0.2 lbf·ft (0.3 N·m, 0.03 kgf·m)
link arm set torx screw:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
throttle drum cover bolt:
2.5 lbf·ft (3.4 N·m, 0.3 kgf·m)
hot start cable nut:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
throttle cable lock nut:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
throttle cable bolt:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
shock absorber upper mounting nut:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
• Tighten the insulator band screw (1) so the
insulator band distance is 0.4 ± 0.04 in
(11 ± 1 mm).
(25) float level
(26) float level gauge
(27) carburetor intake
(17) float bowl (28) leak jet
(25)
(26)
(27)
(17)
(28)
Carburetor Assembly
(1) band screw
(1)
0.4 ± 0.04 in
(11 ± 1 mm)
134 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Adjustment & Tuning Tips
• Route the throttle cables (2), hot start cable (3)
and throttle sensor wire correctly.
• After installing the carburetor, adjust the
throttle cable freeplay and hot start cable
freeplay.
• After installing the carburetor, check the
throttle position sensor connector (4) for
correct routing.
• After installing the carburetor, check the air
vent hoses (5) and overflow hose (6) for
kinking or pinching and correct routing.
• Check that the U-ring and O-ring are in good
condition. Replace them if necessary.
1. If the engine is cold, start it and warm it up 3
minutes and then shut it off.
2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. Shift into neutral. Start the engine.
4. Keep the motorcycle in an upright position.
5. Adjust idle speed with the throttle stop screw
(1).
Idle speed:
1,700 ± 100 rpm
(2) throttle cables
(3) hot start cable
(4) throttle position sensor connector
(3)
(4)
(2)
(5) air vent hoses
(6) overflow hose
(5)
(5)
(5)
(6)
Idle Speed Adjustment
(1) throttle stop screw
(1)
Chassis Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 135
Chassis Adjustments
The following suggestions may improve a specific
concern. Subtle changes in overall handling may
also be noted.
If you have a problem with rear wheel traction,
raise the rear end of your CRF by increasing the
rear spring pre-load. Instead of running 3.9 in
(100 mm) of sag, you can run 3.5 in (90 mm) so the
rear of the bike will sit a little higher. This should
produce more traction because of the change to the
swingarm and the location of your CRF’s center of
gravity.
If you have a problem with the steering head
shaking when you use the front brake hard or if
your CRF wants to turn too quickly, lower the rear
of the motorcycle by reducing the rear spring pre-
load. This will increase fork rake and trail and
should improve stability in a straight line.
The effective suspension travel will be transferred
toward the firmer end of wheel travel.
Keep the race sag adjustment (page 122) in the
3.5 – 4.3 in (90 – 110 mm) range.
Standard Position
The position of the outer tubes in the clamps is not
adjustable. Align the top of the outer tube (1) with
the top of the upper fork clamp (2).
(STANDARD POSITION)
Adjusting your CRF’s wheelbase can offer subtle
changes in overall handling. You may adjust
wheelbase by adding or removing links on the
drive chain. If you change the wheelbase, be sure
to re-check race sag and adjust, if necessary.
In the past, a general rule was lengthen the
wheelbase to add straight line stability, shorten the
wheelbase to improve turning. However, we
suggest you do not lengthen the wheelbase of your
CRF unless you are racing on a track with more
fast sections than normal.
As a general recommendation, keep the wheelbase
as short as possible. This positions the wheels
closer together, improves turning response,
increase weighting (traction) on the rear wheel,
and lightens weighting on the front wheel.
With your CRF, you will probably find that the
standard setting or a shorter wheelbase will offer
more overall benefits.
Rear End
Fork Height/Angle
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1) top of outer tube
(2) upper fork clamp
(3) standard position
0 in (0 mm)
Wheelbase
Gearing
136 Adjustments for Competition
Gearing
You can “adjust” the power delivery of the
standard engine to suit track conditions by
changing gearing. This allows you to utilize a
different portion of the engine’s power range at a
given throttle setting. New gearing may provide
the change you are looking for without the need to
consider further modifications.
The portion of your engine’s power range you use
can be adjusted by changing the final drive ratio
with different sized driven sprockets.
Gearing changes allow you to more closely match
the type of terrain and the available traction.
Normally, a change of one tooth on the rear
sprocket will be sufficient.
There is a choice of both higher and lower final
drive ratios with two optional aluminum driven
sprockets. Like the optional springs and these
sprockets are listed in the Optional Parts List
section (page 163) of this manual.
Unless you have the required mechanical
knowhow, tools, and a Honda Service Manual,
sprocket changing should be done by your dealer.
Higher Gearing (less driven sprocket teeth)
• increases top speed in each gear (provided the
engine will pull the higher gearing)
• reduces frequency of shifting (wider gear
ratios)
• reduces engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may allow better rear
wheel traction on slippery or loose terrain)
However:
• the engine may not pull the higher gearing
• the spacing between gears may be too wide
• engine rpm may be too low
Lower Gearing (more rear sprocket teeth)
• decrease top speed in each gear
• increases frequency of shifting (narrower gear
ratios)
• increases engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may provide more
power-to-the-ground on good traction
surfaces)
However:
• spacing between gears may be too narrow
• engine rpm may be too high
Some tracks may be watered heavily prior to the
first race, then lightly or not at all during the day.
This results in a track surface that is slippery
during the first few races, then changes from good
to great and back to good, and possibly ends the
day with a slick rock-hard consistency.
Ideally, your gearing should be adjusted to suit all
these conditions.
• Wet and slippery or sandy conditions: use a
higher gear (less teeth) to keep engine rpm
down, and avoid unwanted wheelspin. The
engine may bog in certain corners so you’ll
need to slip the clutch to compensate;
downshifting may be too drastic a change in
speed.
• Average conditions: use the standard sprocket.
• Hard (but not slippery) track conditions: use
lower gearing (more teeth) to keep the engine
rpm high where the engine produces the most
power. This may require an extra upshift on
certain sections or perhaps you can just rev it
out a bit longer.
For tight tracks, consider lower gearing to avoid
having to slip the clutch frequently. Repeated
fanning or pulling of the clutch lever in a turn to
raise engine rpm may eventually damage the
clutch system.
A gearing change may help for riding in sand,
where you want to keep the front end light so it can
float from the peak of one sand whoop to the next.
Generally, with higher gearing, it is easier to
maintain that perfect attitude (maximum rear
wheel traction and a light front end) because you
remain in the powerband longer in each gear.
The higher gearing allows you to steer more
efficiently with throttle control and body English.
If you are riding a track with sections where you
choose to over-rev the engine temporarily rather
than shifting up, higher gearing might help.
Sometimes you have to sacrifice performance on
one section of the track to gain a better overall
time. Your goal is the fastest overall lap time, even
if the trade-off is gearing that feels wrong in some
sections.
If you decide to try a gearing change, have
someone check your times with a stopwatch
(before and after the change) to get an accurate
appraisal of the change. “Seat-of-the-pants”
feelings can’t be trusted. Eliminating wheelspin
with a gearing change can make you feel like
you’re going slower when, in reality, you’ve
decreased your time by increasing your speed with
better traction.
These gearing recommendations should be
evaluated by considering your ability, your riding
style, and the track.
Tire Selection for Track Conditions
Adjustments for Competition 137
Tire Selection for Track Conditions
Choosing the correct tire tread pattern and rubber
compound can affect your placing in competition.
The tires on your CRF offer a “happy medium” for
the variety of soil conditions the majority of riders
are likely to encounter.
Experienced competitors often switch to tires
developed for specific terrain conditions. If you do
switch, stay with the factory recommended sizes.
Other tires may affect handling or acceleration.
Be aware that tire sizes (width and aspect ratio) do
vary from manufacturer to manufacturer or even
among tires made by the same manufacturer.
Variations in tires, especially the sidewall profile,
can change the attitude of your CRF and its
handling. Tire variations that raise or lower the
rear of your CRF have a more significant effect on
handling than variations in front tires which,
generally, don’t vary as much.
Often, you can see or feel the change in tire size.
Another way to check is to measure the rolling
circumference of the old and new tires. A higher
profile tire will have a larger rolling
circumference.
If you do switch to tires designed for special terrain
use, remember they will be less acceptable in other
circumstances. For example, an aggressive mud
tire will give excellent grip on wet, loamy terrain,
but less impressive grip on a hard surface.
If you choose a tire with a sticky compound for
added traction, remember that it may transfer
additional loads to the transmission because it
grips so well, especially when riding in situations
that normally place unusual demands on the
transmission.
Complete consumer information can be obtained
from the various tire manufacturer representatives
and dealers.
Some general recommendations for specific
terrain follow:
Hard, Slick Soil
Use tires with many relatively short knobs that are
close together in order to obtain the largest
possible contact patch on the surface. The rubber
compound needs to be softer for hard ground in
order to hook up, but not so soft that the knobs roll
over easily and affect holding a straight line.
These tires tend to wear more quickly than
standard tires because of the combination of soft
rubber and hard terrain.
Muddy Soil
Use a more open tread pattern to avoid clogging.
For these conditions, the relatively long knobs will
probably be made from a harder rubber compound
to reduce any tendency to bend back under
acceleration or wear quickly.
Loose, Sandy Soil
Use a tire that is similar in construction to those
needed for tacky soil and mud, but with a few more
knobs.
Personal Fit Adjustments
138 Adjustments for Competition
Personal Fit Adjustments
The following suggestions may make your ride
both more comfortable and more responsive to
your control input.
• Position the control levers so that you can use
them comfortably when seated and standing.
• Adjust the mounting bolt torque of the clutch
and front brake lever assemblies so that they
can rotate on the handlebar in a fall. If an
assembly does not rotate, it may bend or break
a control lever. Make sure that the bolts are
torqued securely enough to prevent slippage
during normal operation.
Apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent to
the threads of these bolts prior to adjustment to
help ensure the correct torque is retained.
Tighten the top bolts first.
As an alternative, consider wrapping the handlebar
area under the control assemblies with teflon tape.
Then tighten the assemblies to their normal torque.
Upon impact, the fully-tightened assemblies
should rotate on the Teflon tape.
• Position the shift lever and rear brake pedal so
they are close to your boot for rapid access, but
not so close that either is depressed when
sitting or standing comfortably on your CRF.
• Position the handlebar so that both gripping the
bar and operating the controls is comfortable
while both seated and standing, while riding
straight ahead and turning.
Tighten the forward bolts first.
• The handlebar position may be moved forward
either 0.12 in (3 mm) (using optional handlebar
lower holders) or 0.24 in (6 mm) (by rotating
the standard holders 180 degrees).
Refer to the Service Manual for installation
instructions. Be sure to check control cable and
wiring harness routing after the adjustment.
• Handlebar width can be trimmed with a
hacksaw to better suit your particular shoulder
width and riding preference. Think this
through carefully and cut off just a small
amount at a time from both sides equally. It is
obviously much easier to make the handlebar
narrower than it is to add material.
• Chamfer the edges to remove burrs and other
irregularities or roughness after sawing the
handlebar.
• An alternate handlebar shape, through varying
rise or rearward sweep dimensions, will
provide further adjustment to riding position
and may better suit your particular body size or
riding style. Each of the ergonomic dimensions
of the machine were determined to suit the
greatest possible number of riders based on an
average size rider.
Control Positioning
(1) control lever mounting bolts
(1)
(1)
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape
Tips
Tips 139
Tips
Here’s helpful advice on how to transport and store
your Honda, as well as three troubleshooting flow
charts.
Transporting Your Motorcycle...................... 140
Storing Your Honda ...................................... 141
You & the Environment................................ 143
Troubleshooting............................................. 144
Transporting Your Motorcycle
140 Tips
Transporting Your Motorcycle
If you use a truck or motorcycle trailer to transport
your Honda, we recommend that you follow these
guidelines:
• Use a loading ramp.
• Make sure the fuel valve is off.
• Secure the motorcycle in an upright position,
using motorcycle tie-down straps. Avoid using
rope, which can loosen and allow the
motorcycle to fall over.
To secure your CRF, brace the front wheel against
the front of the truck bed or trailer rail.
Attach the lower ends of two straps to the tie-down
hooks on your CRF. Attach to the upper ends of the
straps to the handlebar (one on the right side, the
other on the left), close to the fork.
Check that the tie-down straps do not contact any
control cables or electrical wiring.
Tighten both straps until the front suspension is
compressed about half-way. Too much pressure is
unnecessary and could damage the fork seals.
Use another tie-down strap to keep the rear of the
motorcycle from moving.
We recommend that you do not transport your
CRF on its side. This can damage the motorcycle,
and leaking gasoline could be a hazard.
Storing Your Honda
Tips 141
Storing Your Honda
If you won’t be riding for an extended period, such
as during the winter, thoroughly inspect your
Honda and correct any problem before storing it.
That way, needed repairs won’t be forgotten and it
will be easier to get your CRF running again.
To reduce or prevent deterioration that can occur
during storage, also follow the following
procedures.
1. Completely clean all parts of your CRF. If your
CRF has been exposed to sea air or salt water,
wash it down with fresh water and wipe dry.
2. Change the engine oil and filter (page 44).
3. Change the transmission oil (page 47).
4. Drain the fuel tank and carburetor into an
approved gasoline container.
Turn the fuel valve OFF and loosen the
carburetor drain screw. Drain gasoline into an
approved container. Tighten the carburetor
drain screw to the specified torque:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
5. Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain bolt
(1) at the water pump (2) to drain coolant.
After the coolant has been completely drained,
reinstall the coolant drain bolt with a new
sealing washer and radiator cap.
Coolant drain bolt:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
(1) coolant drain bolt (2) water pump
6. Disconnect the siphon tube from the radiator.
Drain the reserve tank coolant. Empty the
coolant and rinse the inside of the reserve tank
with water.
7. Lubricate the drive chain.
8. Remove the battery and charge it fully. Store in
an area protected from freezing temperatures
and direct sunlight. Slow charge the battery
(page 100) once a month.
9. Inflate the tires to their recommended
pressures (page 91).
10. Place your CRF on the optional Honda
workstand or equivalent to raise both tires off
the ground.
11. Stuff a rag into the muffler outlet. Then tie a
plastic bag over the end of the muffler to
prevent moisture from entering.
12. Store your CRF in an unheated area, free of
dampness, away from sunlight, with a
minimum of daily temperature variation.
13. Cover your CRF with a porous material.
Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing,
coated materials that restrict air flow and allow
heat and moisture to accumulate.
Preparation for Storage
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(2)
(1)
Storing Your Honda
142 Tips
1. Uncover and clean your CRF.
Change the engine and transmission oil if more
than 4 months have passed since the start of
storage (page 44, 47).
2. Uncover the end of the muffler and remove the
rag from the muffler outlet.
3. Fill the fuel tank with recommended fuel
(page 41).
4. Charge the battery (page 100) as required.
Install the battery.
5. Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
(page 48) slowly into the radiator filler hole up
to the filler neck.
Capacity:
1.27 US qt (1.20 ℓ)
after disassembly
1.19 US qt (1.13 ℓ)
after draining
Remove the radiator reserve tank cap and fill
the reserve tank to the upper level line.
Bleed air from the system (page 50).
6. Perform all maintenance checks (page 11).
Removal from Storage
You & the Environment
Tips 143
You & the Environment
Owning and riding a motorcycle can be enjoyable,
but you must do your part to protect nature. When
you show respect for the land, wildlife, and other
people, you also help preserve the sport of off-road
riding.
Following are tips on how you can be an
environmentally responsible motorcycle owner.
• Choose Sensible Cleaners. Use a
biodegradable detergent when you wash your
CRF. Avoid aerosol spray cleaners that contain
chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) which damage the
atmosphere’s protective ozone layer. Don’t
throw cleaning solvents away; see the following
guidelines for proper disposal.
• Recycle Wastes. It’s illegal and thoughtless to
put used engine oil in the trash, down a drain, or
on the ground. Used oil, gasoline, coolant, and
cleaning solvents contain poisons that can hurt
refuse workers and contaminate our drinking
water, lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Before changing your oil, make sure you have
the proper containers. Put oil and other toxic
wastes in separate sealed containers and take
them to a recycling center. Call your local or
state office of public works or environmental
services to find a recycling center in your area
and get instructions on how to dispose of non-
recyclable wastes.
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Troubleshooting
144 Tips
Troubleshooting
The items that are serviceable using this Manual
are followed by the page number reference in
parenthesis. The items that require use of the
Honda Service Manual are followed by an asterisk
(*).
ENGINE DOES NOT START OR IS HARD TO START
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the fuel flow
to carburetor
• No fuel in fuel tank
• Clogged fuel line or fuel
filter (P.41, 42)
• Sticking float valve*
• Clogged fuel fill cap
breather tube (P.41)
2. Try spark test • Faulty spark plug (P.61)
• Fouled spark plug (P.61)
• Faulty ignition control
module*
• Faulty exciter coil
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil
• Faulty engine stop button
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator*
3. Test cylinder
compression*
• Valve stuck open
• Worn cylinder and piston
ring*
• Leaking/damaged
cylinder head gasket
• Improper valve timing*
• Seized valve
4. Start by following
normal starting
procedure
• Improper choke operation
• Pilot screw incorrectly
adjusted*
• Insulator leaking
• Improper ignition timing
(Faulty direct ignition coil
or ignition pulse
generator)*
• Fuel contaminated
• Improper hot start
operation (P.60)
5. Removed and
inspect spark plug
• Carburetor flooded
• Choke opened
• Throttle valve open
• Air cleaner dirty (P.51)
6. START WITH CHOKE ON
REACHING
CARBURETOR
NOT
REACHING
CARBURETOR
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
NO SPARK
CORRECT
LOW
ENGINE DOES
NOT FIRE
ENGINE
STARTS BUT
SOON STOPS
DRY
WET PLUG
POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW AND UNSTABLE
IDLE SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check if air cleaner
is over-oiled (P.51)
• Over-oiled air cleaner
2. Check if the intake
tube is leaking
• Loose insulator clamp
• Damaged insulator
3. Check carburetor
pilot screw
adjustment*
• Fuel-air mixture too lean
(Turn the pilot screw out)*
• Fuel-air mixture too rich
(Turn the pilot screw in)*
4. Check carburetor
jets and accelerator
pump for clogs
• Contaminants in the fuel
• Not cleaned frequently
enough (P.131)
5. Try spark test • Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.61)
• Faulty ignition control
module*
• Faulty alternator*
• Faulty direct ignition coil*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil wire
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator*
6. Check the throttle
position sensor*
• Faulty throttle position
sensor*
7. Test cylinder
compression*
• Ring worn
• Cylinder worn or
damaged*
• Piston worn or damaged*
• Head gasket not sealing
CORRECT
INCORRECT
NOT LEAKING
LEAKING
CORRECT
INCORRECT
NOT CLOGGED
CLOGGED
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
LOW
POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Disconnect fuel line
at carburetor and
check for clogging
(P.41)
• Lack of fuel in tank (P.41)
• Clogged fuel line (P.41)
• Clogged fuel fill cap
breather tube (P.41)
• Clogged fuel valve (P.41)
• Clogged fuel filter (P.42)
2. Remove the air
cleaner (P.51)
• Not cleaned frequently
enough (P.51)
3. Check carburetor
jets for clogging
• Contaminants in the fuel
4. Check valve timing • Cam sprocket not
installed properly
5. Try spark test • Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.61)
• Faulty ignition control
module*
• Faulty alternator*
• Faulty direct ignition coil*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil wire.
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty engine stop button
6. Test cylinder
compression*
• Ring worn
• Cylinder worn or
damaged
• Piston worn or damaged
• Head gasket not sealing
UNRESTRICTED
FUEL FLOW
FUEL FLOW
RESTRICTED
AIR CLEANER
NOT DIRTY
DIRTY
NOT CLOGGED
CLOGGED
CORRECT
INCORRECT
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
CORRECT
LOW
Taking Care of the Unexpected
Taking Care of the Unexpected 145
Taking Care of the Unexpected
This section gives practical advice to help you
problems.
If a Fuse Blows ..............................................146
If Your Battery Is Low (or Dead) ..................147
If You Crash...................................................148
If a Fuse Blows
146 Taking Care of the Unexpected
If a Fuse Blows
All of the electrical circuits on your CRF have a
fuse to protect them from damage caused by excess
current flow (short circuit or overload).
If something electrical on your CRF stops
working, the first thing you should check for is a
blown fuse (1). Check the fuse before looking
elsewhere for another possible cause of the
problem. Replace a blown fuse and check
component operation.
• The main fuse (and spare) are located on the
starter magnetic switch behind the right side
cover.
(1) blown fuse
Recommended Main Fuse: 15A
1. To prevent an accidental short circuit, stop the
engine.
2. Remove the seat mounting bolt (2), right side
cover bolt (3), collar (4) and right side cover
(5).
(2) seat mounting bolt (4) collar
(3) right side cover bolt (5) right side cover
3. Disconnect the wire connector (6) of the starter
magnetic switch (7).
4. Pull out the main fuse (8). If it is blown, install
the spare main fuse (9).
(6) wire connector (8) main fuse
(7) starter magnetic switch (9) spare main fuse
5. Reconnect the wire connector.
If you do not have a replacement fuse with the
proper rating for the circuit, install one with a
lower rating.
NOTICE
Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating
greatly increases the chance of damage to the
electrical system.
If you replace a blown fuse with a spare fuse that
has a lower rating, replace the fuse with the correct
rating as soon as you can. Also remember to
replace the spare fuse that was installed.
If the replacement fuse of the same rating burns out
in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical
problem on your CRF.
Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your
CRF checked by your dealer.
6. Install the right side cover, collar and right side
cover bolt.
7. Install the seat mounting bolt and tighten it to
the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(5)
(9)
(6)
(8)
(7)
If Your Battery Is Low (or Dead)
Taking Care of the Unexpected 147
If Your Battery Is Low (or Dead)
Jump-starting is not recommended, especially if
you use an automobile battery.
The greater amperage of an automobile battery
when the car engine is running can damage your
CRF’s electrical system.
Bump starting is also not recommended.
If you can’t charge the battery or it appears unable
to hold a charge, contact your dealer.
If You Crash
148 Taking Care of the Unexpected
If You Crash
Personal safety is your first priority after a crash.
If you or anyone else has been injured, take time to
assess the severity of the injuries and whether it is
safe to continue riding. If you cannot ride safety,
send someone for help. Do not ride if you will risk
further injury.
If you decide that you are capable of riding safety,
first evaluate the condition of your motorcycle. If
the engine is still running, turn it off and look it
over carefully; inspect it for fluid leaks, check the
tightness of critical nuts and bolts, and secure such
parts as the handlebar, control levers, brakes, and
wheels.
If there is minor damage, or you are unsure about
possible damage but decide to try riding the
motorcycle back to your base, ride slowly and
cautiously.
Sometimes, crash damage is hidden or not
immediately apparent. When you get home,
thoroughly check your motorcycle and correct any
problems you find. Also, be sure to have your
dealer check the frame and suspension after any
serious crash.
Technical Information
Technical Information 149
Technical Information
This section contains dimensions, capacities, and
other technical data.
Vehicle Identification.....................................150
Specifications.................................................151
Torque Specifications ....................................154
High Altitude Carburetor Adjustment ...........157
Emission Control Systems.............................158
Oxygenated Fuels...........................................160
Competition Logbook....................................161
Optional Parts List .........................................163
Spare Parts & Equipment...............................164
Wiring Diagram .............................................165
Vehicle Identification
150 Technical Information
Vehicle Identification
The VIN and engine serial numbers are required
when you register your CRF. They may also be
required when ordering replacement parts. You
may record these numbers in the Quick Reference
section at the rear of this manual.
The VIN (vehicle identification number) (1) is
stamped on the right side of the steering head.
RIGHT SIDE
The engine number (2) is stamped on the left
crankcase.
LEFT SIDE
Serial Numbers
(1) VIN
(1)
(2) engine number
(2)
Specifications
Technical Information 151
Specifications
49 STATE
Item English Metric
Dimension
Overall length 85.5 in 2,172 mm
Overall width 32.6 in 827 mm
Overall height 49.6 in 1,261 mm
Wheelbase 58.3 in 1,481 mm
Seat height 37.7 in 958 mm
Footpeg height 17.0 in 432 mm
Ground clearance 13.6 in 346 mm
Frame
Type Twin tube
F. suspension
Telescopic fork,
travel 11.0 in (280 mm)
stroke 12.4 in (315 mm)
R. suspension
Pro-link,
travel 12.3 in (312 mm)
Tire size, front
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP D742FA
Tire size, rear
100/100 – 18 59M
DUNLOP D756
Tire type bias-ply, tube
Tire pressure, front (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire pressure, rear (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
F. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
51.8 in
2
(334.5
cm
2
)
R. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
60.6 in
2
(391.1
cm
2
)
Fuel recommendation
unleaded gasoline, pump
octane number of 91 or higher
Fuel tank capacity
1.9 US gal
7.3 ℓ
Fuel reserve capacity
0.4 US gal
1.6 ℓ
Caster angle 27°54’
Trail length 4.6 in 118 mm
Fork oil capacity
(except fork damper per leg)
11.7 US oz
345 cm
3
Item English Metric
Engine
Type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Cylinder arrangement
Single 10° inclined from
vertical
Bore and stroke
3.07 x 2.06 in 78.0 x 52.2 mm
Displacement 15.2 cu-in 249 cm
3
Compression ratio 12.9 : 1
Valve clearance (cold)
Intake: 0.005 ± 0.001 in
(0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
Exhaust: 0.011 ± 0.001 in
(0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
0.70 US qt 0.66 ℓafter draining
after draining and oil
filter change 0.73 US qt 0.69 ℓ
after disassembly 0.90 US qt 0.85 ℓ
Transmission oil capacity
0.71 US qt 0.67 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 0.79 US qt 0.75 ℓ
Cooling system capacity
1.19 US qt 1.13 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 1.27 US qt 1.20 ℓ
Carburetor
Type Piston valve
Identification number FCR02D
Main jet # 130
Jet needle NLAT
Slow jet # 42
Pilot screw opening 1 3/4 turns out
Float level 0.31 in 8.0 mm
Idle speed 1,700 ± 100 rpm
Item English Metric
Drive train
Clutch type Wet, multi-plate type
Transmission 5-speed, constant mesh
Primary reduction 3.611
Gear ratio I 2.384
Gear ratio II 1.750
Gear ratio III 1.333
Gear ratio IV 1.041
Gear ratio V 0.814
Final reduction 3.786
Gear shift pattern
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
Electrical
Battery
YTX5L-BS
12 V-4 Ah (10HR)
Ignition ICM
Starting system Electric, Kickstarter
Spark plug: NGK
Standard IMR8C-9H
DENSO
VUH24D
For extended high
speed riding
NGK
IMR9C-9H
DENSO
VUH27D
Spark plug gap
0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
Light
Head light 12 V - 35 W
Fuse
Main fuse 15 A
152 Technical Information
Specifications
50 STATE (meets California)
Item English Metric
Dimension
Overall length 85.5 in 2,172 mm
Overall width 32.6 in 827 mm
Overall height 49.6 in 1,261 mm
Wheelbase 58.3 in 1,481 mm
Seat height 37.7 in 958 mm
Footpeg height 17.0 in 432 mm
Ground clearance 13.6 in 346 mm
Frame
Type Twin tube
F. suspension
Telescopic fork,
travel 11.0 in (280 mm)
stroke 12.4 in (315 mm)
R. suspension
Pro-link,
travel 12.3 in (312 mm)
Tire size, front
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP D742FA
Tire size, rear
100/100 – 18 59M
DUNLOP D756
Tire type bias-ply, tube
Tire pressure, front (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire pressure, rear (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
F. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
51.8 in
2
(334.5
cm
2
)
R. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
60.6 in
2
(391.1
cm
2
)
Fuel recommendation
unleaded gasoline, pump
octane number of 91 or higher
Fuel tank capacity
1.9 US gal
7.3 ℓ
Fuel reserve capacity
0.4 US gal
1.6 ℓ
Caster angle 27°54’
Trail length 4.6 in 118 mm
Fork oil capacity
(except fork damper per leg)
11.7 US oz
345 cm
3
Item English Metric
Engine
Type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Cylinder arrangement
Single 10° inclined from
vertical
Bore and stroke
3.07 x 2.06 in 78.0 x 52.2 mm
Displacement 15.2 cu-in 249 cm
3
Compression ratio 12.9 : 1
Valve clearance (cold)
Intake: 0.005 ± 0.001 in
(0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
Exhaust: 0.011 ± 0.001 in
(0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
0.70 US qt 0.66 ℓafter draining
after draining and oil
filter change 0.73 US qt 0.69 ℓ
after disassembly 0.90 US qt 0.85 ℓ
Transmission oil capacity
0.71 US qt 0.67 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 0.79 US qt 0.75 ℓ
Cooling system capacity
1.19 US qt 1.13 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 1.27 US qt 1.20 ℓ
Carburetor
Type Piston valve
Identification number FCR03D
Main jet # 132
Jet needle NLBU
Needle clip position
(standard)
2nd groove
Slow jet # 42
Pilot screw opening 2 turns out
Float level 0.31 in 8.0 mm
Idle speed 1,700 ± 100 rpm
Item English Metric
Drive train
Clutch type Wet, multi-plate type
Transmission 5-speed, constant mesh
Primary reduction 3.611
Gear ratio I 2.384
Gear ratio II 1.750
Gear ratio III 1.333
Gear ratio IV 1.041
Gear ratio V 0.814
Final reduction 3.786
Gear shift pattern
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
Electrical
Battery
YTX5L-BS
12 V-4 Ah (10HR)
Ignition ICM
Starting system Electric, Kickstarter
Spark plug: NGK
Standard IMR8C-9H
DENSO
VUH24D
For extended high
speed riding
NGK
IMR9C-9H
DENSO
VUH27D
Spark plug gap
0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
Light
Head light 12 V - 35 W
Fuse
Main fuse 15 A
Specifications
Technical Information 153
Specifications
For Canada
Item English Metric
Dimension
Overall length 85.5 in 2,172 mm
Overall width 32.6 in 827 mm
Overall height 49.6 in 1,261 mm
Wheelbase 58.3 in 1,481 mm
Seat height 37.7 in 958 mm
Footpeg height 17.0 in 432 mm
Ground clearance 13.6 in 346 mm
Frame
Type Twin tube
F. suspension
Telescopic fork,
travel 11.0 in (280 mm)
stroke 12.4 in (315 mm)
R. suspension
Pro-link,
travel 12.3 in (312 mm)
Tire size, front
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP D742FA
Tire size, rear
100/100 – 18 59M
DUNLOP D756
Tire type bias-ply, tube
Tire pressure, front (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire pressure, rear (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
F. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
51.8 in
2
(334.5
cm
2
)
R. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
60.6 in
2
(391.1
cm
2
)
Fuel recommendation
unleaded gasoline, pump
octane number of 91 or higher
Fuel tank capacity
1.9 US gal
7.3 ℓ
Fuel reserve capacity
0.4 US gal
1.6 ℓ
Caster angle 27°54’
Trail length 4.6 in 118 mm
Fork oil capacity
(except fork damper per leg)
11.7 US oz
345 cm
3
Item English Metric
Engine
Type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Cylinder arrangement
Single 10° inclined from
vertical
Bore and stroke
3.07 x 2.06 in 78.0 x 52.2 mm
Displacement 15.2 cu-in 249 cm
3
Compression ratio 12.9 : 1
Valve clearance (cold)
Intake: 0.005 ± 0.001 in
(0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
Exhaust: 0.011 ± 0.001 in
(0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
0.70 US qt 0.66 ℓafter draining
after draining and oil
filter change 0.73 US qt 0.69 ℓ
after disassembly 0.90 US qt 0.85 ℓ
Transmission oil capacity
0.71 US qt 0.67 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 0.79 US qt 0.75 ℓ
Cooling system capacity
1.19 US qt 1.13 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 1.27 US qt 1.20 ℓ
Carburetor
Type Piston valve
Identification number FCR02D
Main jet # 130
Jet needle NLAT
Slow jet # 42
Pilot screw opening 1 3/4 turns out
Float level 0.31 in 8.0 mm
Idle speed 1,700 ± 100 rpm
Item English Metric
Drive train
Clutch type Wet, multi-plate type
Transmission 5-speed, constant mesh
Primary reduction 3.611
Gear ratio I 2.384
Gear ratio II 1.750
Gear ratio III 1.333
Gear ratio IV 1.041
Gear ratio V 0.814
Final reduction 3.786
Gear shift pattern
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
Electrical
Battery
YTX5L-BS
12 V-4 Ah (10HR)
Ignition ICM
Starting system Electric, Kickstarter
Spark plug: NGK
Standard IMR8C-9H
DENSO
VUH24D
For extended high
speed riding
NGK
IMR9C-9H
DENSO
VUH27D
Spark plug gap
0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
Light
Head light 12 V - 35 W
Fuse
Main fuse 15 A
Torque Specifications
154 Technical Information
Torque Specifications
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before every outing.
Engine
(1)
(7)
(10)
(11)
(12)
(8)
(9)
(2)
(3)
(5)
(4)
(6)
(13)
ENGINE
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
1 Cylinder head cover bolts 7 10 1.0
2 Exhaust pipe joint nuts 15 21 2.1
3 Coolant drain bolt 7 10 1.0
4 Crankshaft hole cap 11 15 1.5 NOTE 1
5 Transmission oil check
bolt 9 12 1.2
6 Clutch cover bolts 7 10 1.0
7 Cylinder bolt 7 10 1.0
8 Oil filter cover bolts 9 12 1.2
9 Cylinder head bolts 7 10 1.0
10 Drive sprocket bolt 23 31 3.2
11 Engine oil drain bolt 12 16 1.6 NOTE 2
12 Transmission oil drain bolt 12 16 1.6 NOTE 2
13 Air supply pipe bolt 7 10 1.0
NOTES: 1. Apply grease to the threads.
2. Apply engine oil to the threads.
Torque Specifications
Technical Information 155
Frame
(6)
(3)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(12)
(10)
(19)
(15)
(5)
(7)
(11)
(17)
(9)
(8)
(14)
(13)
(9)
(13)
(22)
(20)
(21)
(18)
(16)
FRAME
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
1 Steering stem nut 80 108 11.0
2 Fork upper pinch bolts 16 22 2.2
3 Fork lower pinch bolts 15 20 2.0
4 Handlebar upper holder
bolts 16 22 2.2
5 Handlebar holder nuts 32 44 4.5
6 Front axle nut 65 88 9.0
7 Front axle pinch bolts 15 20 2.0
8 Rear axle nut 94 127 13.0 NOTE 2
9 Chain adjuster lock nuts 20 27 2.8 NOTE 3
10 Front engine hanger
bracket nut 40 54 5.5
11 Middle engine hanger
bracket nut 47 64 6.5
12 Upper engine hanger
plate nuts
(engine side) 40 54 5.5
(frame side) 25 34 3.5
13 Shock absorber nuts
(upper) 32 44 4.5 NOTE 2
(lower) 32 44 4.5 NOTE 2
14 Swingarm pivot nut 65 88 9.0 NOTE 2
15 Fork (fork damper) 25 34 3.5
(fork cap) 22 30 3.1
16 Rear shock arm nuts
(swingarm side) 39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 2
(shock link side) 39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 2
17 Rear shock link nuts 39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 2
18 Shock spring lock nut 32 44 4.5
19 Kickstarter arm bolt 28 38 3.9
20
Front brake master
cylinder holder bolts
7.3 9.9 1.0
21 Brake hose bolts 25 34 3.5
22 Caliper mounting bolts 22 30 3.1 NOTE 4
NOTES: 1. Apply engine oil to the threads and flange surface.
2. U-nut.
3. UBS nut.
4. Alock bolt: Replace with a new one.
Torque Specifications
156 Technical Information
Frame
(23)
(39)
(28)
(42)
(36)
(35)
(40)
(37)
(43)
(39)
(32)
(27)
(26)
(25)
(26)
(44)
(27)
(24)
(38)
(36)
(33)
(34)
(41)
(29) (30)
(31)
FRAME
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
23 Front brake disc nuts 12 16 1.6 NOTE 2
24 Rear brake disc nuts 12 16 1.6 NOTE 2
25 Rear brake pedal pivot bolt 27 36 3.7
26 Spokes 2.7 3.68 0.4
27 Rim locks 9 12 1.2
28 Subframe
mounting bolts
(upper) 22 30 3.1
(lower) 36 49 5.0
29 Fork center bolt 51 69 7.0
30 Fork center bolt lock nut 16 22 2.2
31 Disc cover bolts 10 13 1.3
32 Fork protector bolts 5.2 7 0.7 NOTE 4
33 Muffler
mounting bolts
(front) 19 26 2.7
(rear) 19 26 2.7
34 Muffler clamp bolt 15 21 2.1
35 Driven sprocket nuts 24 32 3.3 NOTE 2
36 Seat mounting bolts 19 26 2.7
37 Front brake reservoir cap
screws 0.7 1.0 0.1
38 Rear brake reservoir cap
bolts 0.7 1.0 0.1
39 Fork air pressure release
screw 0.9 1.2 0.1
40 Side stand
mounting bolts
(upper) 40 54 5.5
(lower) 29 39 4.0
41 Shroud B bolts 3.7 5 0.5
42 Fuel joint bolts 7 10 1.0
43 Brake lever adjuster lock
nut 4.4 5.9 0.6
44 Brake pedal adjuster lock
nut 4.4 5.9 0.6
NOTES: 1. Apply engine oil to the threads and flange surface.
2. U-nut.
3. UBS nut.
4. Alock bolt: Replace with a new one.
High Altitude Carburetor Adjustment
Technical Information 157
High Altitude Carburetor Adjustment
At high altitude, the standard carburetor air-fuel
mixture will be too rich. Performance will
decrease, and fuel consumption will increase. A
very rich mixture will also foul the spark plug and
cause hard starting. Operation at an altitude that
differs from that at which this engine was certified,
for extended periods of time, may increase
emissions.
High altitude performance can be improved by
specific modifications to the carburetor. If you
always operate your engine at altitudes above
6,500 feet (2,000 meters), have your servicing
dealer perform this carburetor modification. This
engine, when operated at high altitude with the
carburetor modifications for high altitude use, will
meet each emission standard throughout its useful
life.
Even with carburetor modification, engine
horsepower will decrease about 3.5% for each
1,000-foot (300-meter) increase in altitude. The
effect of altitude on horsepower will be greater
than this if no carburetor modification is made.
NOTICE
When the carburetor has been modified for high
altitude operation, the air-fuel mixture will be too
lean for low altitude use. Operation at altitudes
below 5,000 feet (1,500 meters) with a modified
carburetor may cause the engine to overheat and
result in serious engine damage. For use at low
altitudes, have your servicing dealer return the
carburetor to original factory specifications.
Emission Control Systems
158 Technical Information
Emission Control Systems
Exhaust Emission Requirements
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
(EPA), the California Air Resources Board
(CARB), and Environment Canada (EC) require
that your motorcycle comply with applicable
exhaust emission standards during its useful life,
when operated and maintained according to the
instructions provided.
The vehicle emission control information label (1)
(2) is attached to the left side of the frame.
(1) vehicle emission control information label
(2) vehicle emission control information label
(Canada only)
Noise Emission Requirements
The EPA also requires that motorcycles built after
January 1,1983 comply with applicable noise
emission standards for one year or 1,865 miles
(3,000 km) after the time of sale to the ultimate
purchaser, the time operated and maintained
according to the instructions provided. (USA only)
Noise Emission Control System
TAMPERING WITH THE NOISE CONTROL
SYSTEM IS PROHIBITED: U.S. federal law
prohibits, or Canadian provincial laws may
prohibit the following acts or the causing thereof.
(1) The removal or rendering inoperative by any
person, other than for purposes of maintenance,
repair or replacement, of any device or element of
design incorporated into any new vehicle for the
purpose of noise control prior to its sale or delivery
to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or (2)
the use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered
inoperative by any person.
AMONG THOSE ACTS PRESUMED TO
CONSTITUTE TAMPERING ARE THE ACTS
LISTED BELOW:
• Removal of, or puncturing the muffler, baffles,
reader pipes, or any other component which
conducts exhaust gases.
• Removal of, or puncturing of any part of the
intake system.
• Lack of proper maintenance.
• Removing or disabling any emissions
compliance component, or replacing any
compliance component with a non-compliant
component.
Problems that May Affect Motorcycle
Emissions
If you are aware of any of the following symptoms,
have the vehicle inspected and repaired by your
Honda dealer.
1. Hard starting or stalling after starting.
2. Rough idle.
3. Misfiring or backfiring during acceleration.
4. After-burning (backfiring).
5. Poor performance (drive ability) and poor fuel
economy.
Federal regulations prohibit removing or disabling
a device or element of design that may affect your
engine’s emission performance unless your CRF
will be used exclusively in competition. If you
modify your engine for use in sanctioned
competition events, you must deface or destroy the
emission control information label.
(1)
(2)
Emission Control Systems
Technical Information 159
Emission Control Systems
Source of Emission
The combustion process produces carbon
monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOx), and
hydrocarbons (HC).
Control of hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen is
very important because, under certain conditions,
they react to form photochemical smog when
subjected to sunlight. Carbon monoxide does not
react in the same way, but it is toxic.
Honda Motor Co., Ltd. utilizes various systems to
reduce carbon monoxide, oxides of nitrogen and
hydrocarbons.
Exhaust Emission Control System
The exhaust emission control system is composed
of appropriate carburetor settings.
No adjustments should be made except for an idle
speed adjustment with the throttle stop screw.
The exhaust emission control system is separate
from the crankcase emission control system.
Secondary Air Injection System
The exhaust emission control system consists of a
secondary air injection system.
The secondary air injection system introduces
filtered air into the exhaust gases in the exhaust
port. The secondary air injection system helps
improve emission control performance.
No adjustments to this system should be made
although periodic inspection of the components is
recommended.
Crankcase Emission Control System
The engine is equipped with a closed crankcase
system to prevent discharging crankcase emissions
into the atmosphere.
Blow-by gas is returned to the combustion muffler
through the air cleaner and the carburetor.
Fuel Permeation Emission Control System
This vehicle complies with the Fuel Permeation
Emission Control regulations of the U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the
California Air Resources Board (CARB), and
Environment Canada (EC).
The fuel tank, fuel hoses, and fuel vapor charge
hoses used on this vehicle incorporate fuel
permeation control technologies.
Tampering with the fuel tank, fuel hoses, or fuel
vapor charge hoses to reduce or defeat the
effectiveness of the fuel permeation technologies
is prohibited by federal regulations.
Oxygenated Fuels
160 Technical Information
Oxygenated Fuels
Some conventional gasolines are being blended
with alcohol or an ether compound. These
gasolines are collectively referred to as oxygenated
fuels. To meet clean air standards, some areas of
the United States and Canada use oxygenated fuels
to help reduce emissions.
If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is
unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating
requirement.
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm the
fuel’s contents. Some states/provinces require this
information to be posted on the pump.
The following are the EPA-approved percentages
of oxygenates:
ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol) up to 10% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 10%
ethanol by volume. Gasoline containing ethanol
may be marketed under the name “Gasohol”.
METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol) up to 5%
by Volume
You may use gasoline containing methanol
containing up to 15% methanol by volume as long
as it contains cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors to
protect the fuel system. Gasoline containing more
than 5% methanol by volume may cause starting
and/or performance problems.
It may also damage metal, rubber, and plastic
parts of your fuel system.
If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms,
try another service station or switch to another
brand of gasoline.
Fuel system damage or performance problems
resulting from the use of an oxygenated fuel
containing more than the percentages of
oxygenates mentioned above are not covered
under warranty.
Oxygenated the fuels can damage paint and plastic.
Be careful not to spill fuel when filling the fuel
tank. Wipe up any spills immediately.
NOTICE
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
Competition Logbook
Technical Information 161
Competition Logbook
Any serious competition effort relies heavily on
the knowledge gained and compiled from previous
racing events. The best way to organize the many
bits of information is to record them in a logbook.
Your logbook can include such information as
suspension adjustments, gearing, and tire
selection. This detailed information, along with
your comments, can prove valuable when you
compete at the same track or on similar terrain.
Your logbook can also tell you when maintenance
was performed and when it will be necessary
again. Your logbook also lets you record any
repairs and lets you keep track of the running time
on the engine and suspension components.
If you choose to sell your CRF, the accurate
maintenance records in your logbook might be the
deciding deal-maker for a potential buyer.
Consider using different color pens or pencils to
record important information on specific subjects.
For example, record results in black, suspension/
chassis settings in blue, and gearing selections in
green. Color codes will help you identify the
information you want with a glance.
Tuning & Adjustment Records
Keep track of the settings and adjustments that
worked best at a particular location. These items
include:
• basic track conditions, altitude, and
temperature
• suspension settings
• chassis adjustments tested and selected
•gearing
• tire selection
•air pressure
Competition Records
• your placings
• thoughts to improve performance next time:
both yours and your CRF’s
• strategy notes
Maintenance Records
• regular interval maintenance
•repairs
• running time on engine
• running time on suspension components
Timekeeping
This Manual lists maintenance intervals for every-
so-many hours of running.
The most effective way to schedule maintenance is
by the hours you have run your CRF.
An official “guesstimate” is close enough for our
timekeeping purposes. You may choose to record
your time the same way aircraft operators do (but
without the benefit of an electrical hourmeter).
All running time is broken down into hours and
tenths of an hour (each 6 minutes represents one
tenth of an hour).
Racing Records
Information worth recording for this section of
your logbook may include:
• Your placing in each moto and overall
finishing position.
• Thoughts on what you could do to improve
your performance next time.
• Notes on any patterns noted in choice of
starting gate positions or in riding portions of
the course as the day progressed that may
prove helpful in future events.
• Any places on the course where you chose the
wrong line and were passed too easily.
• Notes on strategy used by your competition or
by riders in another event that are worth
remembering.
Maintenance Records
Regular maintenance items you’ll want to record
in your logbook should include:
• Dates and results of cylinder, piston and ring
examinations
• Patterns for frequency of need for
decarbonization with a particular oil
• When you last performed shock linkage and
swingarm pivot bearing maintenance
• Engine, transmission, and suspension oil
changes
• Chain, sprocket, chain guide and slider
replacements
• Coolant changes and related component
replacements
• Spark plug, brake pad and control cable
replacements
In addition, you should record any irregularities
noted in component wear so you’ll remember to
keep a close eye on these areas in the future.
Competition Logbook
162 Technical Information
Date Running
Time
Location/Event Comments (Suspension Settings, Gearing, Chassis Adjustments, Maintenance
Performed, etc.)
(Make several photocopies of this page for future use)
Optional Parts List
Technical Information 163
Optional Parts List
These parts and tools may be ordered from your
dealer.
The standard fork spring and shock spring
mounted on the motorcycle when it leaves the
factory are not marked. Before replacing the
springs, be sure to mark them so they can be
distinguished from other optional springs.
FRAME Remarks
Driven sprocket < >: Drive chain links
53 Teeth, Aluminum
<116>
Standard
Optional 54 Teeth, Aluminum
<116>
52 Teeth, Aluminum
<116>
Drive chain
size/link DID 520MXV – 120ZB
Handlebar
lower holder
Standard 3 mm offset
Optional no offset
TOOLS Remarks
Pin spanner A To adjust spring pre-load.
(two spanners required)
Workstand For maintenance.
Air gauge For checking tire air pressure.
FRAME Remarks
Shock spring 268.9 lbf/in (47.1 N/mm)
Standard
Optional 254.7 lbf/in (44.6 N/mm)
Softer
Stiffer 279.8 lbf/in (49.0 N/mm)
Fork spring 23.53 lbf/in (4.12 N/mm)
Standard
Optional 22.38 lbf/in (3.92 N/mm)
Softer
Stiffer 24.61 lbf/in (4.31 N/mm)
or
No mark
(factory products)
Orange paint
(aftermarket parts)
Red and Black
paint
White paint
No mark
(factory products)
or
2 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
3 scribe marks
1 scribe mark
Spare Parts & Equipment
164 Technical Information
Spare Parts & Equipment
There are numerous spare parts you can take to an
event to help ensure you get in a full day of riding.
In addition to the usual nuts and bolts, consider the
following:
spark plugs
air cleaner (clean & oiled, sealed in a plastic bag)
chain & masterlinks
chain guide slider
chain guide
chain rollers
tire tubes (front & rear)
fenders
footpegs
front visor & side covers
handlebar
grips
levers (brake, clutch & hot start)
clutch lever handlebar mount
clutch cable
hot start cable
throttle assembly
throttle cable
shift lever
rear brake pedal
spokes (front & rear, each side)
sprockets (smaller than standard, for gearing
changes & collision damage replacement)
assorted nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cotter pins
headlight bulbs
battery
fuses
Additional Spares
front brake assembly
rear brake assembly
wheels & tires (front & rear, mounted)
clutch discs and plates
engine & transmission oil
seat
ignition components
radiator hoses
radiator shrouds (L & R)
brake hoses (front & rear)
sockets (3/8 in drive)
screwdrivers: blade & Phillips No. 1, 2, 3
wrench, large adjustable
wrenches: open end & box
wrenches: hex (Allen)
wrench, spoke
torque wrench (metric scale, click-stop style)
pliers: standard, needle-nose, channel-lock set
hammer, plastic head
syringe with adjustable stop
tire pressure gauge
tire irons
tire pump or air tank
feeler gauge set
vernier caliper (metric)
pressure/vacuum testing equipment
Any special tools for your CRF purchased from
your dealer.
• Clutch Center Holder 07724-0050002
• Lock Nut Wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
• Tensioner stopper 07AMG-001A100
• Spoke Wrench 07JMA-MR60100
• Piston base 07958-2500001
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent.
(Engine and Transmission Oil)
Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W
Pro Honda DOT 4 Brake Fluid
Pro Honda HP Chain Lube
Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
Pro Honda Hondabrite cleaner
Pro Honda Dielectric Grease
Pro Honda Handgrip Cement
Pro Honda Hondalock
Molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more
than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive)
Pro Honda White Lithium Grease
Multi-purpose Grease
Rust-inhibiting oil
Cable lubricant
Pro Honda HP Coolant
Urea based multi-purpose grease designed for high
temperature, high pressure performance
(example: EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by
KYODO YUSHI, Japan or Shell Stamina EP2 or
equivalent).
pliers-safety wire
safety wire
mechanic’s wire
duct tape
plastic tie-wraps
hose clamps
drop light
electrical tape
Scotch-Brite Hand Pad #7447 (maroon)
Teflon tape
Spare Parts
General Tools
Honda Special Tools
Chemical Products
Other Products
Wiring Diagram
Technical Information 165
Wiring Diagram
166 Technical Information
Blank page
Consumer Information
Consumer Information 167
Consumer Information
This section contains information about contacting
Honda and how to get an official Honda Service
Manual.
Authorized Manuals.......................................168
Warranty Coverage........................................169
Warranty Service ...........................................170
Contacting Honda ..........................................171
Your Honda Dealer........................................172
The Honda Rider's Club (USA only).............173
Authorized Manuals
168 Consumer Information
Authorized Manuals
The Service Manual used by your authorized dealer is available from your
dealer or Helm, Inc. (USA only, Canada: See your dealer to order authorized
manuals)
Also available but not necessary to service your model is the Honda Common
Service Manual, which explains basic service information for various systems
on Honda motorcycles, scooters, and ATV.
The Winter Storage Guide in conjunction with the Owner’s Manual and
Service Manual can help you prepare your Honda motorcycle, scooter, ATV,
and SxS for winter storage.
These Honda manuals are written for the professional technician, but most
mechanically-capable owners should find them helpful if they have the proper
tools and skills. Special Honda tools are necessary for some procedures.
Order On-Line: www.helminc.com
Order Toll Free: 1-888-CYCLE93 (1-888-292-5393)
(NOTE: For Credit Card Orders Only)
Monday - Friday 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM EST
Publication Item No. Description
61KSC11 2017 CRF250X Service Manual
61CSM00 Common Service Manual
S9507 Winter Storage Guide
31KSC710 2017 CRF250X Owner’s Manual
Warranty Coverage
Consumer Information 169
Warranty Coverage
• Emission Control System Warranty
• Noise Control Warranty (USA only)
Your new Honda is covered by certain warranties
as described in the Honda Motorcycle Warranties
Booklet that was provided to you by your Honda
dealer.
Please read this booklet and be aware of the
responsibilities, restrictions, and exclusions which
apply.
Please also keep your Honda owner’s card with
your Warranties Booklet.
Canada: Please refer to the Warranty Booklet
posted on our website at www.honda.ca.
It is important to realize that your warranty for
your Honda applies to defects in material or
factory workmanship. Your warranty coverage
does not apply to normal wear or deterioration
associated with using the motorcycle.
Your warranty coverage will not be voided if you
choose to perform your own maintenance.
However, you should have the proper tools and
service information and be mechanically qualified.
Failures that occur due directly to improper
maintenance or lack of maintenance are not
covered.
Warranty Service
170 Consumer Information
Warranty Service
Please remember that recommended maintenance
interval servicing is not included in your warranty
coverage. Additionally, your warranty does not
apply to the normal wear of items (such as brakes,
tires etc.).
If you believe you have a problem with your
Honda, call the service department of your Honda
dealer. Make an appointment for an inspection and
diagnosis. Remember, as the owner of the
motorcycle, you will be asked to authorize that
inspection. Your dealer will give you the results of
the inspection. If the problem is covered under
warranty, your dealer will perform the warranty
repairs for you.
If you have questions about warranty coverage or
the nature of the repair, it is best to talk to the
Service Manager of your Honda dealer.
Sometimes, in spite of the best intentions of all
concerned, a misunderstanding may occur. If you
aren’t satisfied with your dealer’s handling of the
situation, we suggest you discuss your problem
with the appropriate member of the dealership’s
management team. If the problem has already been
reviewed with the Service Manager, Parts
Manager, Sales Manager, etc., contact the Owner
of the dealership or his designated representative.
Contacting Honda
Consumer Information 171
Contacting Honda
Your owner’s manual was written to cover most of
the questions you might ask about your Honda.
Any questions not answered in the owner’s manual
can be answered by your dealer. If he doesn’t have
the answer right away, he will get it for you.
If you have a difference of opinion with your
dealer, please remember that each dealership is
independently owned and operated. That’s why
it’s important to work to resolve any differences at
the dealership level.
If you wish to comment on your experiences with
your Honda or with your dealer, please send your
comments to the following address:
Motorcycle Division, American Honda Motor Co.,
Inc., P.O. Box 2200, Torrance, CA 90509-2200,
mailstop: 100-4C-7B,
Telephone: (866) 784-1870.
Canada: Honda Canada Inc., Customer Relations
Dept, 180 Honda Boulevard, Markham, Ontario
L6C 0H9, telephone: (888) 946-6329,
facsimile: (877) 939 – 0909.
E-mail: honda_cr@ch.honda.com
Please include the following information in your
letter:
• name, address, and telephone number
• product model, year, and VIN
• date of purchase
• dealer name and address
We will likely ask your dealer to respond, or
possibly acknowledge your comments directly.
Your Honda Dealer
172 Consumer Information
Your Honda Dealer
Once you purchase your new Honda, get familiar
with the organization of your Honda dealer so you
can utilize the full range of services available.
The service department is there to perform regular
maintenance and unexpected repairs. It has the
latest available service information from Honda.
The parts department offers Honda Genuine Parts,
Pro Honda products, Honda Genuine Accessories
(USA only), and Honda accessories and products
(Canada only). The same quality that went into
your Honda can be found in Honda Genuine
replacement parts. You’ll also find comparable
quality in the accessories and products available
from the parts department.
Your dealer can inform you about competition
events in your area, as well as provide with
information about the Honda Rider’s Club of
America (USA only).
We’re sure you’ll be as pleased with the service
your Honda dealer continues to provide after the
sale as you are with the quality and dependability
of your Honda.
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only)
Consumer Information 173
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only)
The Honda Rider’s Club of America (HRCA)
sponsors local riding chapters at Authorized
Honda Dealerships across the country.
Index
174 Index
Index
accessories......................................................... 4
adjustments,
chassis....................................................... 135
control freeplay ........................ 54, 56, 60, 86
for competition......................................... 105
gearing...................................................... 136
high altitude carburetor ............................ 157
idle speed.................................................. 134
personal fit................................................ 138
suspension, front....................................... 106
suspension, rear........................................ 120
suspension, track conditions..................... 124
tire selection ............................................... 92
after competition maintenance ........................ 33
air cleaner........................................................ 51
air pressure,
front suspension ....................................... 106
tires............................................................. 91
apparel, protective............................................. 2
appearance care ............................................. 102
authorized manuals........................................ 168
basic operation................................................. 13
battery.............................................................. 99
before riding...................................................... 9
between motos & practice maintenance.......... 33
brakes,
fluid level.................................................... 87
lever, front adjustment................................ 86
pad wear..................................................... 89
pedal height................................................ 86
break-in guidelines.......................................... 21
capacity, fuel....................................................41
carburetor,
assembly....................................................133
circuit functions ........................................128
components...............................................128
disassembly...............................................131
high altitude adjustment............................157
idle speed ..................................................134
removal .....................................................130
care, appearance.............................................102
chain, drive.......................................................94
chassis adjustments........................................135
choke knob.......................................................15
cleaner, air........................................................51
cleaning, appearance care ..............................102
clutch system, adjustment................................56
competition logbook ......................................161
consumer information....................................167
contacting Honda ...........................................171
controls, operating..............................................7
coolant..............................................................48
cylinder removal ..............................................76
damping adjustments,
front...........................................................106
rear............................................................121
dealer, your Honda.........................................172
diagram, wiring..............................................165
drive chain........................................................94
engine,
flooded........................................................ 16
idle speed.................................................. 134
number...................................................... 150
pinging........................................................ 41
starting........................................................ 15
stop button.................................................. 16
stopping......................................................16
won’t start................................................. 144
environment, protecting................................. 143
exhaust pipe,
installation.................................................. 64
removal.......................................................64
filter,
air................................................................ 51
oil................................................................ 44
flooded engine, starting ...................................16
fork,
front suspension adjustments.................... 106
front suspension inspection........................82
oil recommendation.................................... 84
front brake lever adjustment............................ 86
front suspension disassembly........................ 107
fuel,
filter............................................................ 42
line.............................................................. 42
oxygenated................................................ 160
recommendation......................................... 41
refueling...................................................... 41
system......................................................... 41
tank capacity...............................................41
tank removal...............................................37
valve ........................................................... 15
A
B
C
D
E
F
Index 175
Index
gap, spark plug ................................................ 61
gasoline............................................................ 41
gearing........................................................... 136
guidelines, suspension adjustment ................ 125
handlebar inspection........................................ 97
high altitude carburetor adjustment............... 157
Honda,
contacting................................................. 171
Rider’s Club............................................. 173
service manual.......................................... 168
your dealer................................................ 172
identification, vehicle.................................... 150
idle speed, engine.......................................... 134
inspection, pre-ride.......................................... 11
labels, safety...................................................... 5
logbook, competition..................................... 161
maintenance,
after competition.........................................33
before & after competition..........................33
between motos & practice...........................33
component locations...................................35
general competition.....................................29
importance ..................................................24
safety...........................................................25
schedule ................................................27, 28
manual, service ..............................................168
modifications......................................................4
muffler,
installation...................................................63
removal .......................................................62
oil,
engine..........................................................43
fork..............................................................84
transmission................................................46
operating controls...............................................7
operation component locations..........................8
optional,
parts list.....................................................163
sprockets ...................................................163
oxygenated fuels ............................................160
pads, brake .......................................................89
parts, optional.................................................163
personal fit adjustments .................................138
pinging, engine.................................................41
plug, spark........................................................61
pre-load, rear suspension ...............................120
pre-ride inspection ...........................................11
protective apparel...............................................2
rear suspension inspection............................... 83
Rider’s Club Honda....................................... 173
riding,
apparel..........................................................2
basic operation............................................ 13
before............................................................ 9
important safety information........................ 2
safety precautions......................................... 2
safety,
a few words about.................Safety Messages
important information................................... 2
important precautions...................................2
labels............................................................. 5
maintenance................................................ 25
riding precautions....................................... 14
schedule, maintenance...............................27, 28
seat removal..................................................... 36
serial numbers................................................ 150
service manuals .............................................168
side stand......................................................... 14
spare parts......................................................164
spark arrester ................................................... 65
spark knock...................................................... 41
spark plug ........................................................61
specifications.......................................151 – 153
spring pre-load, rear suspension.................... 120
starting,
engine ......................................................... 15
troubleshooting.........................................144
steering head bearing inspection ..................... 97
stopping engine................................................ 16
storage............................................................ 141
subframe.......................................................... 39
G
H
I
L
M
O
P
R
S
(cont’d)
176 Index
Index
suspension,
front............................................................ 82
rear.............................................................. 83
suspension adjustment,
for track conditions................................... 124
front.......................................................... 106
guidelines ................................................. 125
rear............................................................ 120
transmission oil................................................ 46
tuning tips...................................................... 128
throttle,
freeplay....................................................... 54
inspection ................................................... 55
tires,
air pressure ................................................. 91
inspection ................................................... 91
replacement ................................................ 92
tools............................................................... 164
torque specifications...................... 98, 154 – 156
transporting.................................................... 140
tripmeter .......................................................... 14
troubleshooting.............................................. 144
tubes, replacing................................................ 91
valve, fuel........................................................ 15
valve clearance ................................................ 66
vehicle identification no. (VIN) .................... 150
warranty,
coverage....................................................169
service.......................................................170
washing your motorcycle...............................102
weight limit........................................................3
wheels ..............................................................90
wiring diagram...............................................165
T
V
W
Quick Reference
Quick Reference
Quick Reference
The following is a brief, but important collection
of information you need to know about your
Honda. You'll also find space to record important
notes.
The engine of your Honda can be the most
expensive component to repair. Proper
maintenance, especially the use of the
recommended fluids and filters, prevents
premature wear and damage.
Frequent causes of costly engine repairs are:
• Transmission oil & engine oil: insufficient
quantity, improper oil.
• Air cleaner: dirty, leaking because of improper
installation (poor seal).
How To Avoid Costly Repairs
Record important information here:
VIN
Engine No.
Owner's:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Dealer's:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Service Mgr.
Maintenance The maintenance schedule (pages 27, 28) lists service frequencies for:
about 2.5 hours,
about 7.5 hours,
about 15.0 hours,
about 22.5 hours, and about 30.0 hours.
Pre-ride Inspection Check the items listed on the Pre-ride Inspection checklist each time before you ride
(page 11).
Fuel Tank Capacity unleaded gasoline, pump octane number of 91 or higher
tank: 1.93 US gal (7.3 ℓ), reserve: 0.42 US gal (1.6 ℓ)
Engine oil
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil (USA & Canada), or Honda 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
Transmission oil
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil (USA & Canada), or Honda 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
Tires
Front
80/100 – 21 51M
Rear
100/100 – 18 59M
DUNLOP D742FA DUNLOP D756
Type bias-ply, tube
Tire Pressure (cold) Front: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Spark Plug standard: IMR8C-9H (NGK) or VUH24D (DENSO)
optional: IMR9C-9H (NGK) or VUH27D (DENSO)
Coolant ethylene glycol antifreeze (silicate-free) for aluminum engines in 50/50 solution with
Pro Honda HP Coolant or equivalent distilled water.
Fuse main: 15 A
Drive Chain Size/Link DID 520MXV – 116LE
