Contents
Contents
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY.............................1
Important Safety Information ...........................2
Important Safety Precautions.......................2
Accessories & Modifications ...........................3
Safety Labels ....................................................4
INSTRUMENTS & CONTROLS..................5
Operation Component Locations ......................6
Indicator ............................................................7
MIL Blink Pattern.........................................7
Current DTC/Freeze DTC.............................7
Circuit Inspection.........................................8
DTC Index.....................................................9
BEFORE RIDING.........................................11
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Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride? ...............13
Pre-ride Inspection......................................13
BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS....15
Safe Riding Precautions..............................16
Starting & Stopping the Engine ......................17
Fast Idle Knob.............................................17
Preparation..................................................17
Starting Procedure.......................................17
How to Stop the Engine..............................18
Break-in Guidelines ........................................19
SERVICING YOUR HONDA......................21
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance .....................22
Maintenance Safety .........................................23
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Maintenance Schedule ....................................24
General Competition Maintenance .................26
Before & After Competition Maintenance ......30
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance.....30
After Competition Maintenance..................31
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations ................32
Seat ..................................................................33
Fuel Tank ........................................................34
Subframe .........................................................37
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System .....................................................39
Engine Oil .......................................................48
Transmission Oil .............................................51
Coolant ............................................................53
Air Cleaner ......................................................55
Crankcase Breather .........................................57
Engine
Throttle ............................................................58
Engine Idle Speed ...........................................60
Clutch System .................................................61
Spark Plug .......................................................66
Valve Clearance ..............................................67
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin ........................76
Chassis
Suspension ......................................................86
Brakes .............................................................90
Wheels ............................................................94
Tires & Tubes .................................................95
Drive Chain .....................................................97
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler ....................................100
Steering Damper ...........................................104
Additional Maintenance Procedures .............107
Appearance Care ...........................................109
Contents
Contents
ADJUSTMENTS FOR COMPETITION...111
Front Suspension Adjustments .....................112
Front Suspension Air Pressure..................112
Front Suspension Damping.......................112
Fork Springs..............................................113
Front Suspension Disassembly..................114
Damper Oil Change...................................117
Fork Assembly..........................................120
Rear Suspension Adjustments .......................127
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load.............127
Rear Suspension Damping........................128
Rear Suspension Race Sag........................129
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions .....................................................131
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines ..............132
Tuning Tips ..................................................135
Spark Plug Reading...................................135
Steering Damper Adjustment .......................
136
Steering Damper Damping........................136
Steering Damper Adjustment Guidelines .....137
Chassis Adjustments .....................................138
Rear End....................................................138
Fork Height/Angle.....................................138
Wheelbase.................................................138
Gearing ..........................................................139
Tire Selection for Track Conditions .............140
Personal Fit Adjustments ..............................141
Control Positioning...................................141
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape.........141
TIPS...............................................................143
Transporting Your Motorcycle .....................144
Storing Your Honda ......................................145
Preparation for Storage
..............................145
Removal from Storage...............................145
You & the Environment ................................146
Troubleshooting ............................................147
TECHNICAL INFORMATION.................149
Vehicle Identification ....................................150
Serial Numbers...........................................150
Specifications ................................................151
Torque Specifications ...................................152
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners................................152
Oxygenated Fuels ..........................................155
Competition Logbook ...................................156
Optional Parts List ........................................158
Spare Parts & Equipment ..............................159
Spare Parts.................................................159
General Tools.............................................159
Honda Special Tools..................................159
Chemical Products.....................................159
Other Products...........................................159
Wiring Diagram ............................................160
CONSUMER INFORMATION..................161
Authorized Manuals ......................................162
Contacting Honda .........................................163
Your Honda Dealer .......................................164
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only) ...........165
INDEX..........................................................166
QUICK REFERENCE
2014
Honda CRF250R
OWNER’S MANUAL & COMPETITION HANDBOOK
Introduction
Introduction
Introduction
Congratulations on choosing your Honda CRF
motocross motorcycle.
When you own a Honda, you’re part of a
worldwide family of satisfied customers – people
who appreciate Honda’s reputation for building
quality into every product.
Your CRF is a high performance racing
motorcycle that utilizes the latest motocross
technology and is intended for competition use in
sanctioned, closed-course events by experienced
riders only.
Be aware that motocross is a physically demanding
sport that requires more than just a fine
motorcycle. To do well, you must be in excellent
physical condition and be a skillful rider. For the
best results, work diligently on your physical
conditioning and practice frequently.
Before riding, take time to get acquainted with
your CRF and how it works. To protect your
investment, we urge you to take responsibility for
keeping your CRF well maintained. Scheduled
service is a must, of course. But it’s just as
important to observe the break-in guidelines, and
perform all the pre-ride and other periodic checks
detailed in this manual.
You should also read the owner’s manual before
you ride. It’s full of facts, instructions, safety
information, and helpful tips. To make it easy to
use, the manual contains a table of contents, a
detailed list of topics at the beginning of each
section, and an index at the back of the book.
As you read this manual, you will find information
that is preceded by a symbol. This
information is intended to help you avoid damage
to your CRF, other property, or the environment.
Unless you are mechanically qualified and have
the proper tools, you should see your dealer for the
service and adjustment procedures discussed in
this manual.
An official Honda Service Manual for your CRF is
available (page 162). It is the same manual your
dealer uses. If you plan to do any service on your
CRF beyond the standard maintenance procedures
in this manual, you will find an official Honda
Service Manual a valuable reference.
If you have any questions, or if you ever need a
special service or repairs, remember that your
Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is
dedicated to your complete satisfaction.
Please report any change of address or ownership
to your dealer so we will be able to contact you
concerning important product information.
You may also want to visit our website at
USA: www.powersports.honda.com.
Canada: www.honda.ca.
Happy riding!
California Proposition 65 Warning
WARNING: This product contains or emits
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm.
ABBREVIATION
Throughout this manual, the following
abbreviations are used to identify the respective
parts or system.
Abbrev. term Full term
CKP sensor Crankshaft Position sensor
DLC Data Link Connector
DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code
ECM Engine Control Module
ECT sensor Engine Coolant Temperature
sensor
HPSD Honda Progressive Steering
Damper
IAT sensor Intake Air Temperature sensor
MAP sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp
PGM-FI Programmed Fuel Injection
TDC Top Dead Center
TP sensor Throttle Position sensor
Safety Messages
A Few Words About Safety
Your safety, and the safety of others, is very important. And operating this motorcycle safely is an important responsibility.
To help you make informed decisions about safety, this manual contains a section devoted to Motorcycle Safety, as well as a number of Safety Messages throughout
the manual.
Safety Messages are preceded by a safety alert symbol and one of three signal words: DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.
These signal words mean:
Of course, it is not practical or possible to warn you about all hazards associated with operating or maintaining a motorcycle. You must use your own good
judgement.
You WILL be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
DANGER
WARNING
CAUTION
Motorcycle Safety
Motorcycle Safety 1
This section presents some of the most important
information and recommendations to help you ride
your CRF safely. Please take a few moments to
read these pages. This section also includes
information about the location of safety labels on
your CRF.
Important Safety Information.............................2
Important Safety Precautions.........................2
Accessories & Modifications............................3
Safety Labels......................................................4
Important Safety Information
2 Motorcycle Safety
Important Safety Information
Your CRF can provide many years of pleasure, if
you take responsibility for your own safety and
understand the challenges you can meet in
competitive racing.
As an experienced rider, you know there is much
you can do to protect yourself when you ride.
The following are a few precautions we consider to
be most important.
Never Carry a Passenger.
Your CRF is designed for one operator only.
Carrying a passenger can cause a crash in which
you and others can be hurt.
Wear Protective Gear.
Whether you’re practicing to improve your skills,
or riding in competition, always wear an approved
helmet, eye protection, and proper protective gear.
Take Time to Get to Know Your CRF.
Because every motorcycle is unique, take time to
become thoroughly familiar with how this one
operates and responds to your commands before
placing your machine, and yourself, in
competition.
Learn and Respect Your Limits.
Never ride beyond your personal abilities or faster
than conditions warrant. Remember that alcohol,
drugs, illness and fatigue can reduce your ability to
perform well and ride safely.
Don’t Drink and Ride.
Alcohol and riding don’t mix. Even one drink can
reduce your ability to respond to changing
conditions, and your reaction time gets worse with
every additional drink. So don’t drink and ride, and
don’t let your friends drink and ride either.
Keep your Honda in Safe Condition.
Maintaining your CRF properly is critical to your
safety. A loose bolt, for example, can cause a
breakdown in which you can be seriously injured.
Important Safety Precautions
Accessories & Modifications
Motorcycle Safety 3
Installing non-Honda accessories, removing
original equipment, or modifying your CRF in any
way that would change its design or operation,
could seriously impair your CRF’s handling,
stability, and braking, making it unsafe to ride.
Accessories & Modifications
WARNING
Improper accessories or modifications
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding modifications and
accessories.
Safety Labels
4 Motorcycle Safety
Read these labels carefully and don’t remove them.
If a label comes off or becomes hard to read, contact your dealer for replacement.
(For Canada)
NEVER OPEN WHEN HOT.
Hot coolant will scald you.
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Safety Labels
Instruments & Controls
Instruments & Controls 5
Read this section carefully before you ride. It
presents the location of the basic controls on your
CRF.
Operation Component Locations.......................6
Indicator.............................................................7
MIL Blink Pattern..........................................7
Current DTC/Freeze DTC...............................7
Circuit Inspection............................................8
DTC Index......................................................9
Operation Component Locations
6 Instruments & Controls
clutch lever
engine stop button
front brake lever
throttle grip
MIL
fast idle knob
(engine idle speed)
shift lever
kickstarter
rear brake pedal
Indicator
Instruments & Controls 7
The MIL (1) on your CRF keeps you informed,
alerts you to possible problems, and makes your
riding safer and more enjoyable. Refer to the MIL
frequently.
The MIL flashes when there is any abnormality in
the PGM-FI system. It should also light for a few
seconds and then go off when the engine is started.
If the MIL comes on at any other time, reduce
speed and refer to an official Honda Service
Manual available for purchase from your dealer
(page 162).
If the MIL does not come on when it should, have
your dealer check it for problems.
The MIL will blink the appropriate DTC number if
the ECM detects an active problem while the
engine is running at less than 5,500 rpm.
The MIL will stay on when engine speed is over
5,500 rpm.
The MIL has two types of blinks: a long blink and
short blink. The long blinking lasts for 1.2 seconds,
the short blinking lasts for 0.4 seconds.
One long blink is the equivalent of ten short blinks.
For example, when one long blink is followed by
two short blinks, the MIL is 12 (one long blink =
10 blinks, plus two short blinks).
When the ECM stores more than one DTC, the
MIL will indicate them by blinking in the order
from the lowest number to highest number.
The DTC is indicated in two ways according to the
failure status.
– In the case that the ECM detects an active
problem, the MIL will come on and will start to
blink the DTC when the engine is started.
– In the case that the ECM does not detect an
active problem but has recorded a previous
problem in its memory, the MIL will not come
on. If it is necessary to retrieve any past
problems stored in the memory, refer to an
official Honda Service Manual.
(1) MIL
(1)
MIL Blink Pattern Current DTC/Freeze DTC
8 Instruments & Controls
Indicator
Always clean around the ECM and keep debris
away from the connectors before disconnecting
them.
A faulty PGM-FI system is often related to poorly
connected or corroded connections. Check the
following connections.
Remember, circuit inspection is not a “cure-all” for
other problems in your engine’s PGM-FI system.
Circuit Inspection
(1) MAP sensor connector
(2) ECT sensor connector
(3) TP sensor connector
(4) IAT sensor connector
(5) Injector connector
(6) No.1/No.2 CKP sensor connector
(7) ECM connector
(1)
(5)
(4)
(7)
(6)
(2)
(3)
Instruments & Controls 9
Indicator
Refer to MIL Blink Pattern on page 7.
Should be serviced by your dealer, unless the owner has proper tools and is technically qualified.
The series of 12, 19, and 69 MIL blinks cannot be checked because the engine cannot be started and you
need the proper tools to check these codes. Take unit to a dealer.
If the engine does not start, check all connector connections and/or refer to an official Honda Service
Manual (page 162) for troubleshooting of the PGM-FI symptom.
MIL blinks
Function Failure Symptom/Fail-safe function
1 MAP sensor circuit malfunction Poor performance (driveability)
2 MAP sensor performance problem Poor performance (driveability)
7 ECT sensor circuit malfunction Hard start at a low temperature
8 TP sensor circuit malfunction Poor engine acceleration
9 IAT sensor circuit malfunction Engine operates normally
12 Injector circuit malfunction
• Engine does not start
• Injector, fuel pump and ignition shut down
19 No.1 CKP sensor circuit malfunction
• Engine does not start
• Injector, fuel pump and ignition shut down
69 No.2 CKP sensor circuit malfunction
• Engine does not start
• Injector, fuel pump and ignition shut down
DTC Index
10 Instruments & Controls
Before Riding
Before Riding 11
Before each ride, you need to make sure you and
your CRF are both ready to ride. To help get you
prepared, this section discusses how to evaluate
your riding readiness, and what items you should
check on your CRF.
For information about suspension, steering
damper, and other adjustments, see page 111.
Are You Ready to Ride?..................................12
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?................13
Pre-ride Inspection
.......................................13
Are You Ready to Ride?
12 Before Riding
Are You Ready to Ride?
Before riding your CRF for the first time, we
strongly recommend that you read this owner’s
manual, make sure you understand the safety
messages, and know how to operate the controls.
Before each ride, it’s also important to make sure
you and your CRF are both ready to ride.
For information about suspension, steering
damper, and other adjustments, see page 1
11.
Whether you’re preparing for competition or for
practice, always make sure you are:
• In good physical and mental condition
• Free of alcohol and drugs
• Wearing an approved helmet, eye protection,
and other appropriate riding gear
Although complete protection is not possible,
wearing the proper gear can reduce the chance or
severity of injury when you ride.
WARNING
Not wearing a helmet increases the
chance of serious injury or death in a
crash.
Be sure you always wear a helmet, eye
protection and other protective apparel
when you ride.
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?
Before Riding 13
Competitive riding can be tough on a motorcycle,
so it’s important to inspect your CRF and correct
any problems you find before each ride. Check the
following items (page numbers are at the right):
Check the following before each ride:
•
Engine oil level...........................................49
•
Transmission oil level..................................52
•
Fuel line for condition.................................39
•
Coolant for proper level...............................53
•
Cooling system and hoses for condition.....54
•
Spark plug for proper heat range, carbon
fouling and spark plug wire terminal for
looseness.....................................................66
•
Air cleaner for condition and
contamination..............................................55
•
Clutch lever adjustment and freeplay.........61
•
Breather drain for cleaning.........................57
•
Steering head bearing and related parts for
condition...................................................107
•
Steering damper operation........................104
•
Throttle operation........................................59
•
Tires for damage or improper inflation
pressure.......................................................95
•
Spokes for looseness....................................94
•
Rim locks for looseness..............................94
•
Front and rear suspension for proper
operation...............................................86, 87
•
Front and rear brakes, check operation.......90
•
Drive chain for correct slack and adequate
lubrication.............................................97, 98
•
Drive chain sliders and drive chain rollers
for damage or wear...............................97, 98
• Exhaust pipe/Muffler for looseness..........100
•
Every possible part for looseness (such as
cylinder head bolts, engine mounting bolts/
nuts, axle nuts, handlebar holder bolts/nuts,
fork bridge pinch bolts, drive chain adjuster
lock nuts, drive chain roller bolt/nut, wire
harness connectors, kickstarter arm
bolt).....................................................152-154
•
Indicator........................................................7
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before riding
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always perform a pre-ride inspection
before every ride and correct any
problems.
Pre-ride Inspection
14 Before Riding
Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions 15
This section gives basic information on how to
start and stop your engine as well as break-in
guidelines.
Safe Riding Precautions ..............................16
Starting & Stopping the Engine ......................17
Fast Idle Knob .............................................17
Preparation ..................................................17
Starting Procedure .......................................17
How to Stop the Engine ..............................18
Break-in Guidelines ........................................19
Basic Operating Instructions
16 Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions
Before riding your CRF for the first time, please
review the Important Safety Precautions
begininng on page 2 and the previous section,
titled Before Riding.
For your safety, avoid starting or operating the
engine in an enclosed area such as a garage.
Your CRF’s exhaust contains poisonous carbon
monoxide gas which can collect rapidly in an
enclosed area and cause illness or death.
Safe Riding Precautions
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Basic Operating Instructions 17
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described below.
Your CRF can be kickstarted with the transmission
in gear by pulling in the clutch lever before
operating the kickstarter.
The fast idle knob has two functions:
• When pulled out, the fast idle knob assists in
first-time start-up for cold weather starting.
•
When pushed in, it acts like an idle adjustment
screw. Refer to Idle Speed Adjustment on
page 60.
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral.
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described as follows.
Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant
levels before starting the engine (pages 49, 52, 53).
Cold Engine Starting
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. If the temperature is 95°F (35°C) or below,
pull the fast idle knob (1) fully out.
3. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter
starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke,
kick through to the bottom with a rapid,
continuous motion.
4. About a minute after the engine starts, push the
fast idle knob back all the way to fully OFF.
If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.
Warm Engine Starting
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Kick-start the engine. (Do not open the
throttle.)
If Difficult to Start After Stalling
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately 10 times
to discharge excessive fuel from the engine.
3. Kick-start the engine. (Do not open the
throttle.)
Snapping the throttle or fast idling for more than
about 5 minutes may cause exhaust pipe and
muffler discolorations.
Fast Idle Knob
Preparation
Starting Procedure
(1) fast idle knob
(1)
18 Basic Operating Instructions
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Normal Engine Stop
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Lightly open the throttle (1) two or three times,
and then close it.
3. Push and hold the engine stop button (2) until
the engine stops completely.
Emergency Engine Stop
To stop the engine in an emergency, push and hold
the engine stop button.
How to Stop the Engine
(1) throttle (2) engine stop button
(1)
(2)
Break-in Guidelines
Basic Operating Instructions 19
Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and
performance by paying extra attention to how you
ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25
km).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and
rapid acceleration.
This same procedure should be followed each time
when:
•
piston is replaced
• piston rings are replaced
• cylinder is replaced
•
crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced
20 Basic Operating Instructions
Servicing Your Honda
Servicing Your Honda 21
Keeping your CRF well maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
protect your investment, get maximum
performance, avoid breakdowns, and have more
fun.
To help keep your CRF in good shape, this section
includes a Maintenance Schedule for required
servicing and step-by-step instructions for specific
maintenance tasks. You’ll also find important
safety precautions, information on oils, and tips for
keeping your CRF looking good.
An ECM system is used on this motorcycle;
consequently, routine ignition timing adjustment is
unnecessary. If you want to check the ignition
timing, refer to an official Honda Service Manual
(page 162).
An optional tool kit may be available. Check with
your dealer’s parts department.
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance......................22
Maintenance Safety...........................................23
Important Safety Precautions........................23
Maintenance Schedule.....................................24
General Competition Maintenance..................26
Before & After Competition Main
tenance.......30
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance.....30
After Competition Maintenance..................31
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations.................32
Seat...................................................................33
Fuel Tank.........................................................34
Subframe..........................................................37
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System......................................................39
Engine Oil........................................................48
Transmission Oil..............................................51
Coolant.............................................................53
Air Cleaner.......................................................55
Crankcase Breather..........................................57
Engine
Throttle.............................................................58
Engine Idle Speed............................................60
Clutch System..................................................61
Spark Plug........................................................66
Valve Clearance...............................................67
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin.........................76
Chassis
Suspension......................................................86
Front Suspension Inspection........................86
Rear Suspension Inspection.........................87
Recommended Fork Oil...............................88
Fork Oil Change..........................................88
Brakes..............................................................90
Wheels.............................................................94
Tires & Tubes..................................................95
Drive Chain.......................................................97
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler......................................100
Steering Damper............................................104
Additional Maintenance Procedures...............107
Appearance Care............................................109
The Importance of Maintenance
22 Servicing Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance
Keeping your CRF well-maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to get
maximum performance during each moto.
Careful pre-ride inspections and good maintenance
are especially important because your CRF is
designed to be ridden in off-road competition.
Remember, proper maintenance is your
responsibility. Be sure to inspect your CRF before
each ride and follow the Maintenance Schedule in
this section.
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before you ride
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the inspection and
maintenance recommendations and
schedules in this owner’s manual.
Maintenance Safety
Servicing Your Honda 23
This section includes instructions on how to
perform some important maintenance tasks.
Some of the most important safety precautions
follow. However, we cannot warn you of every
conceivable hazard that can arise in performing
maintenance. Only you can decide whether or not
you should perform a given task.
Make sure the engine is off before you begin
any maintenance or repairs.
This will help eliminate several potential
hazards:
Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine
exhaust. Be sure there is adequate ventilation
whenever you operate the engine.
Burns from hot motorcycle parts.
Let the
engine and exhaust system cool before
touching.
Injury from moving parts. Do not run the
engine unless instructed to do so.
• Read the instructions before you begin, and
make sure you have the tools and skills
required.
• To help prevent the motorcycle from falling
over, park it on a firm, level surface, using an
optional workstand or a maintenance stand to
provide support.
• To reduce the possibility of a fire or explosion,
be careful when working around gasoline. Use
only a non-flammable (high flash point)
solvent such as kerosene –not gasoline– to
clean parts. Keep cigarettes, sparks, and flames
away from all fuel-related parts.
WARNING
Failure to properly follow maintenance
instructions and precautions can cause
you to be seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the procedures and
precautions in this owner’s manual.
Important Safety Precautions
Maintenance Schedule
24 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Schedule
To maintain the safety and reliability of your CRF,
regular inspection and service is required as shown
in the Maintenance Schedule that follows.
The Maintenance Schedule lists items that can be
performed with basic mechanical skills and hand
tools. Procedures for these items are provided in
this manual.
The Maintenance Schedule also includes items that
involve more extensive procedures and may
require special training, tools, and equipment.
Therefore, we recommend that you have your
dealer perform these tasks unless you have
advanced mechanical skills and the required tools.
Procedures for items in this schedule are provid
ed
in an official Honda Service Manual available for
purchase from your dealer (page 162).
Service intervals in the maintenance schedule are
expressed in terms of races and riding hours. To
avoid overlooking required service, we urge you to
develop a convenient way to record the number of
races and/or hours you ride.
If you do not feel capable of performing a given
task or need assistance, remember that your Honda
dealer knows your CRF best and is fully equipped
to maintain and repair it. If you decide to do your
own maintenance, use only Honda Genuine Parts
or their equivalents for repair or replacement to
ensure the best quality and reliability.
Perform the pre-ride inspection (page 13) at each
scheduled maintenance period.
Summary of Maintenance Schedule Notes and
Procedures:
N
otes:
1. Clean after every moto for dusty riding
condition.
2. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires
mechanical skill.
3. Replace after the first break-in ride.
4. Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5. Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs
and plates are replaced.
6. Replace every year.
Maintenance Procedures:
I : inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate or replace if
necessary
C: clean
A: adjust
L : lubricate
R: replace
Maintenance Schedule
Servicing Your Honda 25
Perform the Pre-ride Inspection (page 13) at each scheduled maintenance period.
I: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. A: Adjust. L: Lubricate. R: Replace.
WE RECOMMEND THESE ITEMS BE SERVICED BY REFERRING TO AN OFFICIAL HONDA SERVICE MANUAL.
This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machine subjected to severe use require more frequent servicing.
NOTE: 1.Clean after every moto for dusty riding condition.
2.Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.
3.Replace after the first break-in ride.
4.Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5.Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs and plates are replaced.
6.Replace every year.
FREQUENCY
ITEMS
NOTE
Each race or
about
2.5 hours
Every 3 races or
about
7.5 hours
Every 6 races or
about
15.0 hours
Every 9 races or
about
22.5 hours
Every 12 races
or about
30.0 hours
Ref. Page
FUEL LINE (NOTE 6) I R
FUEL PUMP FILTER (NOTE 6) R
THROTTLE OPERATION I
59
AIR FILTER (NOTE 1) C
55
CRANKCASE BREATHER I
57
SPARK PLUG I
66
VALVE CLEARANCE (NOTE 4) I
67 – 75
ENGINE OIL (NOTE 3) I R
49
ENGINE OIL FILTER (NOTE 3) R
49
ENGINE IDLE SPEED I
60
PISTON AND PISTON RINGS R
PISTON PIN R
TRANSMISSION OIL (NOTE 5) I R
52
RADIATOR COOLANT (NOTE 2) I
54
COOLING SYSTEM I
54
DRIVE CHAIN I, L R
97
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER I
97
DRIVE CHAIN ROLLER I
98
DRIVE SPROCKET I
99
DRIVEN SPROCKET I
99
BRAKE FLUID (NOTE 2) I
91
BRAKE PADS WEAR I
93
BRAKE SYSTEM I
90
CLUTCH SYSTEM (NOTE 5) I
61
CONTROL CABLES I, L
107
EXHAUST PIPE/MUFFLER I
100
SUSPENSION I
86, 87
SWINGARM/SHOCK LINKAGE L
29, 87
FORK OIL EXCEPT DAMPER (NOTE 3) R
88
FORK OIL DAMPER R
117
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS I
108, 152 – 154
WHEELS/TIRES I
94 – 96
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS I
107
39
43
76
79
General Competition Maintenance
26 Servicing Your Honda
General Competition Maintenance
Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using
an optional workstand, or equivalent support.
When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with
the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten
them to the specified torque using a crisscross
pattern.
Use Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalents
when servicing your CRF.
Clean parts in non-flammable (high flash point)
cleaning solvent (such as kerosene) when
disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surfaces,
O-rings, and seals before reassembling. Grease
parts by coating or filling where specified.
After any engine disassembly, always install new
gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, piston pin clips, snap
rings, etc. when reassembling. After reassembly,
check all parts for proper installation and
operation.
All Pre-ride Inspection Items
Refer to Pre-ride Inspection on page 13.
General Competition Maintenance
Servicing Your Honda 27
Spark Plug
Some non-resistor plugs may cause ignition problems. Refer
to the recommendations elsewhere in this manual for specific
types so you will be sure to use the proper reach and heat
range. Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance
Schedule (page 25).
Spark Plug Cap
Install a small plastic tie-wrap around the spark plug cap to
reduce any possibility of it loosening or of water penetration.
Air Cleaner
Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly because the volume
of air able to pass through it has a great effect on
performance. Both engine performance and long term
durability may be affected by an air cleaner that has
deteriorated and allows dirt to pass. Inspect the air cleaner
closely each time it’s serviced for evidence of small tears
or
seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and ready to
install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty conditions
may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing it with a
pre-serviced air cleaner between motos. Be careful not to
over oil the air cleaner. While it is important to oil the air
cleaner thoroughly, over oiling will cause an overall rich
running condition, probably more noticeable off idle and in
low rpm performance. Follow the servicing instructions in
the Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or
an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner flange where
it contacts the air cleaner housing. Pro Honda White Lithium
Grease, or an equivalent, is handy for this because any dirt that
penetrates this sealing area will show up clearly
(page 55). Use the Honda Genuine air cleaner or an
equivalent air cleaner specified for your model.
Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda air
cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may cause
premature engine wear or performance problems.
Engine Oil and Filter
Drain and replace engine oil often to ensure the greatest
service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft.
Also replace engine oil filter often to ensure the greatest
service life. Frequent changes will also assure consistent
performance of power and response (page 49).
Air Cleaner Housing Sealing
Remove and reseal the air cleaner connecting tube where it
connects to the air cleaner housing with Pro Honda Handgrip
Cement or an equivalent if there is any doubt to its sealing
integrity. Inspect the air cleaner and air intake tract regularly
for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.
Transmission Oil
Drain and replace transmission oil often to ensure the greatest
service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent changes
will also assure consistent performance of both shifting and
clutch action (page 52).
General Competition Maintenance
28 Servicing Your Honda
Gaskets
Always use new gaskets when reassembling components.
Cylinder head/Cylinder
Put a little grease on the dowel pins of the cylinder head and
cylinder to prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals. The
tolerances are quite tight, so it’s important to keep these
dowels absolutely clean (pages 76, 78).
Fuel Line
Refer to Fuel Line Inspection on
page 39.
Check the fuel lin
e for deterioration
, damage, or leakage.
Replace t
he fuel line every year.
Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts
Make sure the engine mounting bolts and nuts are tightened
to the proper torque specification. For added peace of mind,
remove the nuts, clean the threads, and apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent prior to torquing the nuts.
Electrical Connectors
Clean electrical connectors and wrap them with electrical tape
to reduce the possibility of unwanted disconnections, water
shorts or corrosion. Additional corrosion protection is offered
by using Pro Honda Dielectric Grease on all electrical
connections.
Frame
Because your CRF is a high-performance machine, the
frame should not be overlooked as part of your overall
competition maintenance program. Periodically inspect
the frame closely for possible cracking or other damage.
It makes good racing sense.
Spokes
Check spoke tension frequently between the first few rides.
As the spokes, spoke nuts and rim contact points seat-in,
the spokes may need to be retightened. Once past this initial
seating-in period, the spokes should hold their tension.
Still, be sure your race maintenance program includes
checking spoke tension and overall wheel condition on a
regular basis (page 94).
Nuts, Bolts, Etc
Application of a thread locking agent to essential fasteners
offers added assurance and security. Remove the nuts,
clean the threads of both the nuts and bolts, apply Pro
Honda Hondalock or an equivalent and tighten to the
specified torque.
Fork Oil/Performance
Disassemble, clean and inspect the fork and replace the oil
regularly. Contamination due to the tiny metal particles
produced from the normal action of the fork, as well as
normal oil breakdown, will deteriorate the performance of
the suspension. Refer to an official Honda Service Manual
(page 162). Use only HP Fork Oil, SS-19 or an equivalent
which contains special additives to assure maximum
performance of your CRF’s front suspension.
Steering Head Bearings
Periodically clean, inspect and regrease the steering head
bearings — especially if wet, muddy or extremely dusty
courses are encountered often.
Use urea based multi-purpose grease designed for high
temperature, high pressure performance (example:
EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by KYODO YUSHI, Japan
or Shell Stamina EP2 or equivalent).
General Competition Maintenance
Servicing Your Honda 29
Brake Fluid Replacement
Refer to Brake Pad Wear on page 93.
Brake Caliper Inspection: Be sure both the front and rear
calipers are able to move freely on the caliper pin and caliper
bracket pins. Check pad thickness periodically and replace the
pads when minimum thickness is reached. If the brakes fade
when they are hot, inspect the pads
for glazing or damage, and
replace if necessary.
Brake Fluid Replacement: Refer to an official Honda Service
Manual (page 162) for brake fluid replacement instructions.
Replace the brake fluid in the brake system every 2 years.
Replace the fluid more frequently if you subject your brakes to
severe use. Heavy braking heats the brake fluid and it may
deteriorate sooner than expected. Any type of riding, that
requires frequent use of the brakes, such as in tight woods, can
shorten the service life of brake fluid.
Bleed Hole
After every race, check the bleed hole below the water pump
cover for leakage. Clean away any clogged dirt or sand, if
necessary. Check the bleed hole of the water pump for signs
of seal leakage. If water leaks through the bleed hole, replace
the mechanical seal. If oil leaks through the bleed hole, replace
the oil seal. Make sure
that there is no continuous coolant leakage from the bleed hole
while operating the engine. A small amount of coolant
weeping from the bleed hole is normal. See an official Honda
Service Manual or consult your dealer for replacing the
mechanical seal or oil seal. Both seals should be replaced at
the same time.
Suspension Linkage Lubrication
Disassemble, clean, inspect and lubricate all suspension linkage
pivot bearings with molybdenum disulfide grease (containing
more than 3 % molybdenum disulfide additive) after each 7.5
hours of running time in order to maintain proper suspension
performance and minimize component wear.
Footpegs
Worn footpeg teeth can be repaired by filing the grooves
between the teeth with a triangular shaped file.
Be aware that filing them too sharp will reduce boot sole
lifespan. Sharpen only the points of the teeth. Filing the
grooves deeper will weaken the footpegs. Be sure the pegs
are free to pivot freely and that the pivot pin retaining cotter
pins are in good condition.
Swingarm
Do not attempt to weld or otherwise repair a damaged
swingarm. Welding will weaken the swingarm.
Swingarm Pivot Lubrication
Clean, inspect and lubricate the swingarm and suspension
linkage pivots with molybdenum disulfide grease (containing
more than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive) after each 7.5
hours of running time in order to maintain proper suspension
performance and minimize component wear. Be sure all of the
dust seals are in good condition.
Handgrips
Always use Pro Honda Handgrip Cement or an equivalent
when replacing handgrips.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual (page 1
62) for
installatio
n instructions.
Throttle Grip
Right throttle grip: Align the index mark on the throttle grip
with the index mark of the throttle pipe.
Left handlebar grip: Align the index mark on the left
handlebar grip with the paint mark on the handlebar.
For added security, you may choose to bind the handgrips to
the handlebar and throttle pipe with safety wires to prevent the
possibility of them loosening. Position the twisted wire ends
away from your palms and be sure to bend the wire ends well
into the handgrip rubber so they will not snag your glove.
Throttle Control
Remove the throttle control every few rides, clean the inside
of the throttle pipe and handlebar thoroughly. Inspect the cable
carefully for kinks or other damage that may restrict throttle
control in anyway. Move the handlebar from lock to lock to be
sure there is no cable interference. Make certain the throttle
operation is perfect after servicing and inspecting.
Before & After Competition Maintenance
30 Servicing Your Honda
Before & After Competition Maintenance
After practice or between motos you have a chance
to make additional checks and adjustments.
• Clean accumulated dirt from under the fenders
and off the wheels, suspension components,
handgrips, controls, and footpegs. A stiff,
nylon parts cleaning brush works well.
• Check tire air pressure.
• Check spoke tension, and make sure the rim
locks are secure.
• Check to make sure the sprocket bolts and nuts
are secure.
• Clean the sides of the drive chain with a stiff,
nylon parts-cleaning brush. Lubricate and
adjust the chain as necessary.
Do not perform maintenance while engine is
running. Injury to your fingers or hands may result.
• After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster
index marks (1) are in the same position on
each side. This will ensure that the rear wheel
is in proper alignment and allow maximum
performance from the rear disc brake.
Maintaining proper wheel alignment will also
extend brake pad wear.
• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and
use the pressure release screws (2) to release
the built-up pressure (in excess of normal
atmospheric pressure: 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm
2
))
in the forks. This pressure is caused by normal
fork action while riding. (If you are riding at
altitude, remember that fork pressure of 0 at
sea level will increase as elevation increases.)
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance
(1) chain adjuster index marks
(2) pressure release screw
(1)
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 31
Before & After Competition Maintenance
It is important to the long term performance of
your CRF to practice a consistent maintenance
program. Right after the event is a good time to
begin your next maintenance cycle.
After Race Lubrication
Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the
drive sprocket and any steel portions of the chassis
or engine where the paint has worn away.
This will prevent rusting of the exposed metal.
Apply rust-inhibiting oil more heavily if the event
was particularly wet or muddy. Take care to avoid
spraying any oil near the brake pads or the brake
discs.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers between
the chain and sprocket.
Remove the drive chain, clean and lubricate it
(pages 98, 99). Be sure the chain is wiped clean
and is dry before lubricating the chain.
Routine Cleaning
If your CRF is only slightly dirty, it is best to clean
it by hand with the aid of a stiff bristled nylon
brush and some clean rags.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers between
the chain and sprocket.
A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes
are available from variety, drug, food, and
hardware stores. Some of these brushes are
extremely useful in removing dirt from the many
tight contours of the metal pieces of your CRF.
Avoid using stiff, abrasive brushes on the plastic or
rubber parts.
If your CRF was exposed to sea air or salt water,
rinse it as soon as possible after the event, dry it,
and apply a spray lubricant to all metal parts.
If you decide to wash your CRF or use cleaners,
refer to Appearance Care (page 109).
After Competition Maintenance
Maintenance Component Locations
32 Servicing Your Honda
clutch lever
front brake fluid reservoir
front brake lever
throttle grip
radiator cap
fuel fill cap
air bleed bolt
spark plug
fast idle knob
(engine idle speed)
air cleaner
crankcase
breather
tube B
drive chain
transmission oil
drain bolt
engine oil filter
front brake
caliper
engine oil fill cap/dipstick
rear suspension
spring pre-load
adjuster
crankcase breather tube A
front suspension compression
damping adjuster
(both left and right)
steering damper
adjuster
front suspension
rebound damping
adjuster
(both left and right)
transmission oil
check bolt
engine oil
drain bolt
rear brake
pedal
rear brake fluid
reservoir
rear brake
caliper
rear suspension rebound
damping adjuster
• rear suspension high speed
compression damping
adjuster
• rear suspension low speed
compression damping
adjuster
transmission
oil fill cap
Seat
Servicing Your Honda 33
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Removal
1. Remove the seat mounting bolts (1).
2. Remove the seat (2) by sliding it backward.
Installation
1. Install the seat while aligning the seat front
prong (1) with the front seat bracket (2) and
seat rear prong (3) with the seat stopper plate
(4).
2. Install and tighten the seat mounting bolts to
the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(1) seat mounting bolts (2) seat
(2)
(1)
(1) seat front prong (3) seat rear prong
(2) front seat bracket (4) seat stopper plate
(1) (3)
(2)
(4)
Fuel Tank
34 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel Tank
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Removal
1.
Remove the seat (page 33).
2. Remove the shroud A bolts and collars (1).
3. Remove the shroud B bolts (2).
4. Slide the shrouds (3) toward the front to
separate them from the air cleaner housing
covers (4).
5. Slide the shrouds toward the rear until their
hooks (5) are aligned with the recesses (6) of
the fuel tank.
6. Turn the shrouds as shown in the figure, and
then remove them.
7. Install a hose clamp (7) to the breather tube (8)
and shut the hose clamp securely.
8. Pull the breather tube (8) out of steering stem
nut.
9. Unhook the fuel tank band (9) and air cleaner
rubber (10).
10. Remove the fuel tank bolt and collar (11).
11. Unhook the fuel feed hose (12) from the clamp
(13).
(1) shroud A bolts and collars
(2) shroud B bolts
(3) shrouds
(4) air cleaner housing covers
(4)
(3)
(1)
(2)
(5) hooks (6) recesses
(7) hose clamp (8) breather tube
(6)
(5)
(8)
(7)
(8) breather tube
(9) fuel tank band
(10) air cleaner rubber
(11) fuel tank bolt and collar
(12) fuel feed hose (13) clamp
(8)
(11)
(10)
(9)
(13)
(12)
Fuel Tank
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 35
12. Pull the fuel tank (14) out of the frame and
hang it to the left of the frame.
Check the fuel tank stopper cable (15) for
deterioration, kinks or other damage.
Do not support the fuel tank by the fuel feed hose
(12).
13. Check for interference between the frame and
tank and adjust the cushion rubbers (16) if
necessary.
Installation
1. Install the fuel feed hose (1) to the clamp (2) if
it is removed.
2. Install the fuel tank (3) on the frame.
3. Install the collar and fuel tank bolt (4).
4. Hook the air cleaner rubber (5) and the fuel
tank band (6).
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive.You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(12) fuel feed hose (15) fuel tank stopper cable
(14) fuel tank
(14)
(15)
(12)
(16) cushion rubbers
7.1 – 7.5 in
(180 – 190 mm)
0 – 0.4 in
(0 – 10 mm)
(16)
(16)
(1) fuel feed hose (2) clamp
(3) fuel tank
(4) collar and fuel tank bolt
(5) air cleaner rubber
(6) fuel tank band
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(6)
(5)
Fuel Tank
36 Servicing Your Honda
5. Put the breather tube (7) in the steering stem
nut (8).
6. Remove the hose clamp (9) from the breather
tube.
7. Align the shroud hooks (10) with the recesses
(11) of the fuel tank.
8. Turn the shrouds (12) and hook them onto the
frame (13).
9. Slide the shrouds (12) toward the rear so that
the shroud tabs (14) and the tabs on the air
cleaner housing covers (15) are aligned.
10. Install the shroud B bolts (16), collars and
shroud A bolts (17).
Tighten the shroud B bolts to the specified
torque:
3.8 lbf·ft (5.2 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)
11.
Install the seat (page 33).
(7) breather tube (9) hose clamp
(8) steering stem nut
(10) shroud hooks
(11) recesses
(12) shrouds
(13) frame
(8)
(7)
(9)
(11)
(10)
(13)
(12)
(12) shrouds
(14) shroud tabs
(15) air cleaner housing cover tabs
(16) shroud B bolts
(17) collars and shroud A bolts
(12)
(14)
(15)
(17)
(16)
Subframe
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 37
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Removal
1. Remove the seat (page 33).
2. Remove the right and left mufflers (page 100).
3. Remove the rear fender mounting bolts, nuts
(1) and rear fender (2) backward.
4. Remove the air cleaner box (3) from the
subframe (4).
5. Remove the air cleaner mounting bolts (5) and
unhook the fuel tank band (6).
6. Remove the subframe lower bolts (7) and
subframe upper bolts (8).
Remove the subframe (9).
Installation
1. Loosely attach the upper and lower ends of the
subframe to the main frame and loosely install
all subframe bolts.
2. Align the subframe with the rear wheel and
tighten the subframe upper bolts (1) and
subframe lower bolts (2) to the specified
torque:
subframe upper bolts:
24 lbf·ft (32 N·m, 3.3 kgf·m)
subframe lower bolts:
36 lbf·ft (49 N·m, 5.0 kgf·m)
(1) rear fender mounting bolts and nuts
(2) rear fender
(3) air cleaner box (4) subframe
(1)
(2)
(3)
(3)
(4)
(5) air cleaner mounting bolts
(6) fuel tank band
(7) subframe lower bolts
(8) subframe upper bolts
(9) subframe
(6)
(5)
Left side:
(8)
(7)
(9) (9)
(8)
(7)
Right side:
(1) subframe upper bolts
(2) subframe lower bolts
(1)
(2)
(2)
(1)
Left side: Right side:
38 Servicing Your Honda
Subframe
3. Install the air cleaner box (3) to the subframe
(4).
4. Install the rear fender (5) and align the hole in
the rear fender with the hole in the subframe,
and then install the rear fender mounting bolts
and nuts (6).
5. Hook the fuel tank band (7).
6. Install the air cleaner mounting bolts (8).
7.
Install the left and right mufflers (page 101).
8. Install the seat (page 33).
(3) air cleaner box (4) subframe
(5) rear fender
(6) rear fender mounting bolts and nuts
(4)
(3)
(3)
(6) (5)
(7) fuel tank band
(8) air cleaner mounting bolts
(7)
(8)
Fuel System
Servicing Your Honda 39
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Use only unleaded fuel in your CRF. If you ride
your CRF in a country where leaded fuel might be
available, take precautions to use only unleaded
fuel.
Your engine is designed to use any unleaded
gasoline that has a pump octane number of 91 or
higher. Gasoline pumps at service stations
normally display the pump octane number.
For information on the use of oxygenated fuels, see
page 155.
Use of lower octane gasoline can cause persistent
“pinging” or “spark knock” (a louder rapping
noise) which, if severe, can lead to engine damage.
(Light pinging experienced while operating under
a heavy load, such as climbing a hill, is no cause
for concern.)
If pinging or spark knock occurs at a steady engine
speed under normal load, change brands of
gasoline. If pinging or spark knock persists,
consult your dealer.
Never use stale or contaminated gasoline. Avoid
getting dirt, dust or water in the fuel tank.
1. To open the fuel fill cap (1), pull the breather
tube (2) out of the steering stem nut (3). Turn
the fuel fill cap counterclockwise and remove
it.
2. Add fuel until the level reaches the bottom of
the filler neck.
Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.66 US gal (6.3 ℓ)
• Be careful not to damage the fuel pump while
filling the fuel tank.
• Avoid overfilling the tank. There should be no
fuel in the filler neck.
3. Close the fuel fill cap and insert the breather
tube in the steering stem nut.
1.
Hang the fuel tank to the left side of the frame
(page 34).
2. Remove the fuel quick connect fitting cover
(1).
3. Check the fuel line (2) for cracks,
deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace the
fuel line, if necessary.
4. Install the fuel quick connect fitting cover.
5.
Install the fuel tank (page 35).
Fuel
Type Unleaded
Pump Octane Number 91 (or higher)
Refueling Procedure
(1) fuel fill cap (3) steering stem nut
(2) breather tube
(1)
(2)
(3)
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
Fuel Line Inspection
(1) fuel quick connect fitting cover
(2) fuel line
(2)
(1)
40 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
1. Hang the fuel tank to the left side of the frame
(page 34).
2. Disconnect the fuel pump connector (1).
3. Reposition the fuel tank and start the engine
and let it idle until the engine stalls.
Disconnection
1.
Relieve the fuel pressure (this page).
2. Hang the fuel tank to the left side of the frame.
3. Remove the fuel quick connect fitting cover
(1) from the fuel pump (2).
4. Check the fuel quick connect fitting (3) for
dirt, and clean if necessary.
5. Remove the bolt (4), clamp and setting rubber
(5).
6. Pull and release the joint rubber (6) of the
injector side from the retainer (7).
7. Place a shop towel (8) over the fuel quick
connect fitting.
Fuel Pressure Relieving
(1) fuel pump connector
(1)
Fuel Line Replacement
(1) fuel quick connect fitting cover
(2) fuel pump
(3) fuel quick connect fitting
(4) bolt (5) clamp and setting rubber
(3)
(1)
(2)
Injector side: Fuel Pump side:
(5)
(4)
(6) joint rubber (injector side only)
(7) retainer
(8) shop towel
(6)
(7)
(8)
Injector side: Fuel Pump side:
Fuel System
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 41
8. Hold the connector with one hand and squeeze
the retainer tabs (9) with the other hand to
remove the locking pawls (10) from the
connector grooves.
Pull the connector off, then remove the
retainer.
• Use a shop towel to absorb the remaining
fuel in the fuel feed hose.
• Be careful not to damage the hose or other
parts.
• Do not use tools.
• If the connector does not move, keep the
retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately
pull and push the connector until it comes off
easily.
9. To prevent damage and keep foreign matter
out, cover the disconnected connectors (11)
and fuel joints (12) with plastic bags (13).
Connection
1. Insert a new retainer (1) into the connector (2)
by aligning its locking pawls (3) with the
connector grooves (4).
• Always replace the retainer and joint rubber
of the quick connect fitting when the fuel
feed hose is disconnected.
• If the joint rubber is damaged or cut, replace
it with a new one.
• Do not bend or twist the fuel feed hose.
• If any retainer needs replacing, use the same
manufacture’s retainer as the one being
removed (Various manufactures produce
different types of retainers).
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(9) retainer tabs
(10) locking pawls
Injector side: Fuel Pump side:
(9)
(10)
(9)
(10)
(11) disconnected connectors
(12) fuel joints
(13) plastic bags
(11)
(13)
(12)
(1) retainer (new) (3) locking pawls
(2) connector (4) connector grooves
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
Align
42 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
2. Install the joint rubber (5) and seat it onto the
fuel joint as shown. Align the fuel quick
connect fitting with the fuel joint. Then press
the quick fitting onto the pipe of the fuel joint
until both retainer pawls lock with a “click”.
If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of
engine oil on the pipe end.
3. Make sure the connection is secure and that the
pawls are firmly locked into place; check
visually and by pulling the connector.
4. Make sure the joint rubber (5) is in place
between the flange (6) and retainer tab (7).
5. Install the setting rubber (8), clamp (9) and bolt
(10) by aligning the clamp tab (11) with the
groove (12) of the stay.
6. Install the fuel quick connect fitting cover (13)
and set the rubber cover tab (14) to the hole
(15) of the fuel quick connect fitting cover.
Be sure the rubber cover (16) is properly installed
between the fuel quick connect fitting cover and
fuel pump.
7.
Increase the fuel pressure (page 47).
(5) joint rubber (new: injector side only)
(5)
(5) joint rubber (injector side only)
(6) flange
(7) retainer tab
(8) setting rubber (11) clamp tab
(9) clamp (12) groove
(10) bolt
(5)
(6)
(7)
(9)
(8)
(12)
(11)
(10)
(13) fuel quick connect fitting cover
(14) rubber cover tab
(15) fuel quick connect fitting cover hole
(16) rubber cover
(15)
(14)
(16)
(13)
Fuel System
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 43
Empty the fuel tank into an approved gasoline
container using a commercially available hand
siphon or an equivalent method.
Be careful not to damage the fuel pump while
draining the fuel in the fuel tank.
Removal
1.
Relieve the fuel pressure (page 40).
2.
Disconnect the fuel line (page 40).
3. Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts (1),
stopper cable guide (2), stopper cable (3),
washers (4), collars (5), conical spring washers
(6) and fuel pump plate (7) while holding the
fuel tank.
4. Remove the fuel tank.
Be careful not to drop the fuel tank when removing
the stopper cable.
5. Remove the fuel pump unit (8) and O-rings (9).
Be careful not to damage the fuel pump unit.
6. Disconnect the fuel pump wire terminals (10)
from the fuel pump base (11).
Be careful not to damage the wires when
disconnecting the fuel pump wire terminals.
Fuel Pump Filter Replacement
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(1) fuel pump mounting bolts
(2) stopper cable guide
(3) stopper cable
(4) washers
(5) collars
(6) conical spring washers
(7) fuel pump plate
(3)
(2)
(1)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8) fuel pump unit (9) O-rings
(10) fuel pump wire terminals
(11) fuel pump base
(9)
(8)
(10)
(11)
44 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
7. Check the hooks (12) of the fuel pump unit
holder and tabs (13) on the fuel pump base for
damage or discoloration.
If the hooks and tabs are damaged or
discolored, replace the fuel pump unit as an
assembly.
8. Release the hooks of the fuel pump unit holder
from the grooves (14) in the fuel pump base
tabs while pushing the holder against the base
and slightly spreading the base tabs.
Be careful not to damage the hooks and tabs.
9. Remove the fuel pump unit holder assembly
(15) from the fuel pump base (16) and remove
the O-ring (17).
Wipe the spilled out fuel immediately.
10. Remove the fuel pump stopper (18) and
damper rubber (19).
11. Remove the fuel pump assembly (20) with fuel
pump filter (21), O-ring (22) from the fuel
pump unit holder (23).
12. Check the fuel pump filter (21) for clog,
damage or deterioration and replace it if
necessary.
13. Remove the fuel pump filter from the fuel
pump assembly (20).
(12) hooks (14) grooves
(13) tabs
(13)
(12)
(13)
(14)
(14)
(15) fuel pump unit holder assembly
(16) fuel pump base
(17) O-ring
(18) fuel pump stopper
(19) damper rubber
(15)
(17)
(16)
(18)
(19)
(20) fuel pump assembly
(21) fuel pump filter
(22) O-ring
(23) fuel pump unit holder
(20) fuel pump assembly (21) fuel pump filter
(20)
(21)
(22)
(23)
(20)
(21)
Fuel System
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 45
Installation
1. Install a new fuel pump filter (1) onto the fuel
pump assembly (2) aligning its hook (3) with
the joint boss (4) completely.
Be careful not to damage the hook.
2. Apply small amount of engine oil to a new
O-ring (5).
Install a new O-ring to the fuel pump assembly
(6).
3. Install the fuel pump assembly with fuel pump
filter into the fuel pump unit holder (7) while
routing the fuel pump red (8) and black (9)
wires through the holder grooves (10) as
shown.
4. Install a new damper rubber (11) to the fuel
pump filter as shown.
Install the fuel pump stopper (12).
5. Apply small amount of engine oil to a new
O-ring (13).
Install a new O-ring to the fuel pump base (14).
6. Install the fuel pump unit holder assembly (15)
into the fuel pump base while aligning its
hooks (16) with the grooves (17) in the fuel
pump base tabs (18).
If the gap between the hooks and tabs is more
than 0.04 in (1.0 mm), replace the fuel pump
unit.
Be sure that the hooks are completely seated.
(1) fuel pump filter (new) (3) hook
(2) fuel pump assembly (4) joint boss
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5) O-ring (new) (8) red wire
(6) fuel pump assembly (9) black wire
(7) fuel pump unit holder (10) grooves
(11) damper rubber (new) (12) fuel pump stopper
(8)
(6)
(7)
(5)
(9)
(8)
(9)
(10)
(10)
(10)
(12)
(11)
(13) O-ring (new)
(14) fuel pump base
(15) fuel pump unit holder assembly
(16) hooks
(17) grooves
(18) tabs
(15)
(16)
(18)(17)
(17) (18)
(13)
(14)
46 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
7. Connect the fuel pump red (19) and black (20)
wire terminals to the fuel pump base terminals
(21). Push the wire terminals until they stop as
shown.
Be careful not to damage the wires.
8. Apply 0.02 oz (0.5 g) maximum of engine oil
to a new O-ring (22).
Install a new O-ring onto the fuel pump unit
(23).
9. Install a new O-ring (24) into the fuel tank
groove.
10. Install the fuel pump unit (25) into the fuel tank
(26).
Be careful not to damage the wires.
11. Install the fuel pump plate (27) with its
identification mark (28) facing toward the
front side and facing up.
12. Install the conical spring washers (29), collars
(30), washers (31), stopper cable (32), stopper
cable guide (33) and fuel pump mounting bolts
(34).
13. Install the fuel tank.
Make sure that the convex surfaces of the conical
spring washers are upside.
14. Tighten the fuel pump mounting bolts to the
specified torque in the specified sequence as
shown:
8 lbf·ft (11 N·m, 1.1 kgf·m)
15.
Connect the fuel line (page 41).
16.
Increase the fuel pressure (page 47).
(19) red wire terminal
(20) black wire terminal
(21) fuel pump base terminals
(22) O-ring (new)
(23) fuel pump unit
(23)
(22)
(19) (20)
(21)
(19) (20)
(21)
(24) O-ring (new) (26) fuel tank
(25) fuel pump unit
(27) fuel pump plate (28) identification mark
(26)
(25)
(24)
(27)
(28)
(29) conical spring washers
(30) collars
(31) washers
(32) stopper cable
(33) stopper cable guide
(34) fuel pump mounting bolts
(34)(30)(29)
(32)
(29)
(33)
(30)
(31) (34)
Servicing Your Honda 47
Fuel System
Make sure the fuel remains enough (0.3 US gal
(1.0 Ɛ) minimum) in the fuel tank and add fuel if
necessary before increasing fuel pressure.
1. Connect the fuel pump connector (1).
2. Disconnect the DLC/fuel pump sub harness
connector (2).
3. Before connecting the battery harness cables to
a 12V battery (3), make sure that the battery
harness selector switches (4) are OFF.
4. Connect the battery harness positive (+) cable
(5) first, then connect the battery harness
negative (–) cable (6) to the terminals of a 12 V
battery.
5. Connect the battery harness adaptor (7)
between the battery harness (8) and the DLC/
fuel pump sub harness connectors (2) as
shown.
• Battery harness 070MZ-MEN0100
• Battery harness adaptor 070MZ-KRN0100
6. Position the fuel tank on the main frame.
7. Turn the “PUMP” selector switch (9) ON.
The selector switches can be used to change
power delivery as follows:
– “ECM” selector switch ON:
Power to ECM only.
– “PUMP” selector switch ON:
Power to fuel pump only.
– Both selector switches ON:
Power to ECM and fuel pump.
8. Run the fuel pump for about 3 – 5 seconds, and
fuel pressure will rise.
9. Turn the “PUMP” selector switch OFF.
Check that there is no leakage in the fuel line.
10. Make sure that the battery harness selector
switches are OFF.
11. Disconnect the battery harness negative (–)
cable from the battery first, then disconnect the
battery harness positive (+) cable.
12. Remove the battery harness and battery
harness adaptor.
13. Connect the DLC/fuel pump sub harness
connector.
14. Install the fuel tank (page 35).
Fuel Pressure Increasing
(1) fuel pump connector
(2) DLC/fuel pump sub harness connector
(1)
(2)
(2) DLC/fuel pump sub harness connectors
(3) 12 V battery
(4) battery harness selector switches
(5) battery harness positive (+) cable
(6) battery harness negative (–) cable
(7) battery harness adaptor
(8) battery harness
(4)
(8)
(5) (6)
(3)
(7)
(2)
(9) “PUMP” selector switch
(9)
Engine Oil
48 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Oil
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the engine. Even the best oil wears
out. Changing oil helps get rid of dirt and deposits.
Operating the engine with old or dirty oil can
damage your engine. Running the engine with
insufficient oil can cause serious damage to the
engine.
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal performance
to SJ oils that are not labeled as energy conserving or
resource conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives.
Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine oils
displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or
“resource conserving” service label on the
container. They may affect lubrication.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart may
be used when the average temperature in your
riding area is within the indicated range.
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the oil
container. For example, the following label shows
the MA classification.
Oil Recommendation
API
classification
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving or resource
conserving on the circular
API service label
viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W-30
JASO T 903 standard MA
suggested oil* Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke
Oil (USA & Canada), or
Honda 4-stroke oil, or an
equivalent motorcycle oil
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
(1)
(2)
Engine Oil
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 49
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
engine.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1),
wipe it clean, and insert it without screwing it
in. Remove the oil fill cap/dipstick.
5. Check that the oil level is between the upper
(2) and lower (3) level marks on the engine oil
fill cap/dipstick.
• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark,
you do not have to add oil.
• If the oil is below or near the lower level
mark, add the recommended oil until it
reaches the upper level mark. (Do not
overfill.)
Reinstall the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
Repeat steps 1 – 5.
6. Check that the O-ring (4) is in good condition
and replace it if necessary.
7. Reinstall the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1).
8. Check for oil leaks.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1)
from the left crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch
the oil. Then remove the engine oil drain bolt
(2) and sealing washer (3).
5. With the engine stop button pushed, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately five times
to drain the engine oil completely.
6. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and seating surface, then
tighten it with a new sealing washer to the
specified torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 146).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) upper level mark
(3) lower level mark
(1)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(4) O-ring
(4)
(1)
Changing Engine Oil & Filter
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) engine oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer (new)
(1) (3)
(2)
50 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Oil
7.
It is recommended to replace the oil and filter
every 6 races or about every 15.0 hours.
However, if you replace only the oil before the
recommended interval, see page 25.
8. Remove the oil filter cover bolts (4) and oil
filter cover (5).
9. Remove the oil filter (6) and O-ring (7) from
the oil filter cover.
NOTICE
Using the wrong oil filter may result in leaks or
engine damage.
10. Apply grease to the filter side of the spring end,
then install the spring (8) into a new oil filter.
11. Position the spring against the engine
crankcase and install a new oil filter with the
rubber seal (9) facing out, away from the
engine. You should see the “OUT-SIDE” mark
(10) on the filter body, near the seal.
Use a new Honda Genuine oil filter or a filter
of equal quality specified for your model.
NOTICE
If the oil filter is not installed properly, it will
cause serious engine damage.
12. Apply engine oil to a new O-ring and install it
to the oil filter cover.
13. Install the oil filter cover being careful not to
damage the O-ring, then tighten the oil filter
cover bolts to the specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
14. Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil.
15. Install the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
16.
Check the engine oil level by following the
steps in Checking & Adding Oil (page 49).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 146).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
(4) oil filter cover bolts
(5) oil filter cover
(6) oil filter (new)
(7) O-ring (new)
(8) spring
(9) rubber seal
(10) “OUT-SIDE” mark
(5)
(4)
(7)
(9)
(6)
(8)
(10)
Capacity: 0.73 US qt (0.69 ℓ)
after draining and filter change
0.71 US qt (0.67 ℓ)
after draining
Transmission Oil
Servicing Your Honda 51
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the transmission and clutch. Even
the best oil wears out. Changing oil helps get rid of
dirt and deposits. Operating the engine with old or
dirty oil can damage your engine.
Running the engine with insufficient oil can cause
serious damage to the clutch and transmission.
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal performance
to SJ oils that are not labeled as energy conserving or
resource conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives. Use the
recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum
additives. They may adversely affect clutch
operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine oils
displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or
“resource conserving” service label on the
container. They may affect lubrication and
clutch performance.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart may
be used when the average temperature in your
riding area is within the indicated range.
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the oil
container. For example, the following label shows
the MA classification.
Oil Recommendation
API classification
(4-stroke engine oil
only)
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving or resource
conserving on the circular
API service label
viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W-30
JASO T903
standard
MA
others without friction modifiers as
molybdenum additives
suggested oil* Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
(USA & Canada), or Honda
4-stroke oil, or an equivalent
motorcycle oil
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
(1)
(2)
52 Servicing Your Honda
Transmission Oil
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
clutch and transmission.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1), oil
check bolt (2) and sealing washer (3) from the
right crankcase cover. A small amount of oil
should flow out of the oil check bolt hole.
Allow any excess oil to flow out of the oil
check bolt hole.
If no oil flows out of the oil check bolt hole,
add oil slowly through the transmission oil fill
hole until oil starts to flow out of the oil check
bolt hole.
Install the oil check bolt with the sealing
washer and transmission oil fill cap. Repeat
steps 1 – 4.
5. After inspecting the oil level or adding oil,
tighten the oil check bolt with a new sealing
washer to the specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
6. Check that the O-ring (4) is in good condition
and replace it if necessary.
7. Reinstall the transmission oil fill cap (1).
8. Check for oil leaks.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1) from
the right crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch
the oil. Then remove the transmission oil drain
bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and seating surface, then
tighten it with a new sealing washer to the
specified torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
6. Fill the crankcase with recommended oil.
Capacity:
0.72 US qt (0.68 ℓ) after draining
7. Install the transmission oil fill cap.
8.
Check the transmission oil level b
y following
the steps in Checking
& Adding Oil
(
this page).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 146).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) transmission oil fill cap (3) sealing washer (new)
(2) oil check bolt
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1) transmission oil fill cap
(4) O-ring
Replacing Transmission Oil
(1)
(4)
(1) transmission oil fill cap
(2) transmission oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer (new)
(1)
(2)
(3)
Coolant
Servicing Your Honda 53
Your CRF’s liquid cooling system dissipates
engine heat through the coolant jacket that
surrounds the cylinder and cylinder head.
Maintaining the coolant will allow the cooling
system to work properly and prevent freezing,
overheating, and corrosion.
Use Pro Honda HP Coolant or an equivalent high
quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing
corrosion protection inhibitors specifically
recommended for use in aluminum engines. Check
the antifreeze container label.
Use only distilled water as a part of the coolant
solution. Water that is high in mineral content or
salt may be harmful to the aluminum engine.
NOTICE
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause
premature wear of the mechanical seal or
blockage of the radiator passages. Using tap
water may cause engine damage.
The factory provides a 50/50 solution of antifreeze
and water in this motorcycle. This coolant solution
is recommended for most operating temperatures
and provides good corrosion protection.
Decreasing the concentration of antifreeze to less
than 40% will not provide proper corrosion
protection.
Increasing the concentration of antifreeze is not
recommended because it decreases cooling system
performance. Higher concentrations of antifreeze
(up to 60%) should only be used to provide
additional protection against freezing.
Check the cooling system frequently during
freezing weather.
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
1. Position your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support so that it is securely held in
place in an upright position.
2. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap
(1) and check coolant level. The coolant level
is correct when it is at the bottom of the
radiator filler neck (2).
3. If the coolant level is low, remove the air bleed
bolt and O-ring (3) on the left radiator upper
tank, and then add the coolant up to the filler
neck.
Inspect the coolant level before each outing.
A coolant loss of 0.7 – 2.0 US oz (20 – 60 cm
3
)
through the overflow hose is normal. If coolant
loss is more than this, inspect the cooling
system.
Capacity:
1.08 US qt (1.02 ℓ) after disassembly
1.00 US qt (0.95 ℓ) after draining
4. Tighten the air bleed bolt with a new O-ring to
the specified torque:
1.2 lbf·ft (1.6 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
5. Install the radiator cap securely.
NOTICE
If the radiator cap is not installed properly, it will
cause excessive coolant loss and may result in
overheating and engine damage.
Coolant Recommendation
Checking & Adding Coolant
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
(1) radiator cap (3) air bleed bolt and O-ring
(2) radiator filler neck
(2)
(1)
(3)
54 Servicing Your Honda
Coolant
1. Check the cooling system for leaks (see an
official Honda Service Manual for
troubleshooting of leaks).
2. Check the radiator hoses (1) for cracks,
deterioration, and radiator hose clamps for
looseness.
3. Check the radiator mount for looseness.
4. Make sure the overflow hose (2) is connected
and not clogged.
5. Check the radiator fins (3) for clogging.
6. Check the air bleed bolt (4) for looseness.
7. Check the bleed hole (5) below the water pump
cover (6) for leakage. Clean away any clogged
dirt or sand, if necessary. Check the bleed hole
of the water pump for signs of seal leakage. If
water leaks through the bleed hole, replace the
mechanical seal. If oil leaks through the bleed
hole, replace the oil seal. Make sure that there
is no continuous coolant leakage from the
bleed hole while operating the engine.
A small amount of coolant weeping from the
bleed hole is normal. See an official Honda
Service Manual or consult your dealer for
replacing the mechanical seal or oil seal.
Both seals should be replaced at the same time.
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Coolant should be replaced by your dealer, unless
you have the proper tools and service data and are
mechanically qualified. Refer to an official Honda
Service Manual (page 162).
To properly dispose of drained coolant, refer to
You & the Environment on page 146.
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Cooling System Inspection
(1) radiator hoses (3) radiator fins
(2) overflow hose (4) air bleed bolt
(2)
(4)
(3)
(3)
(1)
(1)
(5) bleed hole
(6) water pump cover
(5)
(6)
Coolant Replacement
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
Air Cleaner
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 55
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
The air cleaner uses polyurethane inner and outer
pieces which can’t be separated.
A dirty air cleaner will reduce engine power.
Proper air cleaner maintenance is very important
for off-road vehicles. A dirty, water-soaked, worn-
out, or defective air cleaner will allow dirt, dust,
mud, and other impurities to pass into the engine.
Service the air cleaner more frequently if you ride
in unusually wet or dusty areas. Your dealer can
help you determine the correct service interval for
your riding conditions.
Your CRF’s air cleaner has very specific
performance requirements. Use a new Honda
Genuine air cleaner specified for your model or an
air cleaner of equal quality.
NOTICE
Using the wrong air cleaner may result in
premature engine wear.
Proper air cleaner maintenance can prevent
premature engine wear or damage, expensive
repairs, low engine power, poor gas mileage, and
spark plug fouling.
NOTICE
Improper or lack of proper air cleaner
maintenance can cause poor performance and
premature engine wear.
1.
Remove the seat (page 33).
2. Remove the air cleaner retaining bolt (1) and
air cleaner assembly (2).
Cleaning
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(2) air cleaner assembly
(2)
(1)
56 Servicing Your Honda
Air Cleaner
3. Remove the air cleaner element (3) from the air
cleaner holder (4) by releasing the holder tabs
(5) from the holes (6) of the air cleaner
element.
4. Wash the air cleaner in clean non-flammable
cleaning solvent. Then wash in hot, soapy
water, rinse well, and allow to dry thoroughly.
The air cleaner element is made in two pieces:
inner and outer, which cannot be separated.
5. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.
6. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly. After
drying, apply 1.7 US oz (50 cm
3
) of clean Pro
Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent air
cleaner oil from the inside of the element.
Place the element into a plastic bag (7) and
spread the oil evenly by hand.
7.
Assemble the air cleaner element and holder.
Install the holder tabs in the holes of the air
cleaner element.
8. Apply 0.1 – 0.2 oz (1.5 – 5.5 g) of Pro Honda
White Lithium Grease or equivalent to the air
cleaner housing contact area of the air cleaner
element.
9. Install the air cleaner assembly (2) into the air
cleaner housing by aligning its tabs (8) with the
stay (9) of the air cleaner housing.
10. Carefully position the sealing flange of the
element to prevent dirt intrusion.
11. Install and tighten the air cleaner retaining bolt
(1) securely.
NOTICE
Improper installation of the air cleaner assembly
may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine and
cause rapid wear of the piston rings and cylinder.
12.
Install the seat (page 33).
(3) air cleaner element (5) holder tabs
(4) air cleaner holder (6) holes
(5)
(6)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7) plastic bag
(2) air cleaner assembly
(8) air cleaner assembly tabs
(9) air cleaner housing stay
(7)
(9)
(8)
(2)
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(1)
Crankcase Breather
Servicing Your Honda 57
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Service more frequently if your CRF is ridden in
the rain or often at full throttle.
Service the breather if you can see deposits in the
transparent section of the crankcase breather tubes.
If the drain tube overflows, the air filter may
become contaminated with engine oil causing poor
engine performance.
1. Remove the crankcase breather tube plugs (1)
from the crankcase breather tubes (2) and drain
deposits into a suitable container.
2. Reinstall the crankcase breather tube plugs.
Draining
(1) crankcase breather tube plugs
(2) crankcase breather tubes
(2)
(1)
Throttle
58 Servicing Your Honda
Throttle
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay: 1/16 – 1/4 in (2 – 6 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Upper Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
upper adjuster.
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (2).
3. Turn the adjuster (3).
Turning the adjuster in direction (–) will
decrease freeplay and turning it in direction (+)
will increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Return the dust cover to its normal position.
5. After adjustment, check for smooth rotation of
the throttle grip from fully closed to fully open
in all steering positions.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or
the correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in and back out one turn.
Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Install the dust cover and make the adjustment
with the lower adjuster.
Lower Adjustment
The lower adjuster is used for major freeplay
adjustment, such as after replacing the throttle
cables or removing the throttle body. It is also used
if you cannot get the proper adjustment with the
upper adjuster.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. Turn the adjuster (2) in direction (–) to
decrease freeplay, and in direction (+) to
increase freeplay.
3. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
4. Operate the throttle grip to ensure that it
functions smoothly and returns completely.
If you can’t get the freeplay within the specified
range, contact your dealer.
Throttle Freeplay
(1) freeplay
(1)
(1) dust cover (+) increase freeplay
(2) lock nut (–) decrease freeplay
(3) adjuster
(1) (3)
(2)
(+)
(–)
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
(2)
(1)
(–)
(+)
Servicing Your Honda 59
Throttle
1. Check that the throttle assembly is positioned
properly (the end of the throttle housing (1) is
aligned with the paint mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
2. Check for smooth rotation of the throttle (3)
from fully open to fully closed in all steering
positions. If there is a problem, see your dealer.
3. Inspect the condition of the throttle cables
from the throttle grip down to the throttle body.
If the cable is kinked or chafed, have it
replaced.
4. Check the cables for tension or stress in all
steering positions.
5. Lubricate the cables with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
rust and corrosion.
Throttle Inspection
(1) throttle housing (2) paint mark
(3) throttle
(1)
(2)
(3)
Engine Idle Speed
60 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Idle Speed
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Remember, idle speed adjustment is not a “cure
-
all” for other problems in your engine’s PGM-FI
system. Adjusting the idle speed will not
compensate for a fault elsewhere.
The engine must be at normal operating
temperature for accurate idle speed adjustment.
When pushed in, the fast idle knob acts as the idle
adjustment screw.
Turning it counterclockwise results in a faster/
higher idle speed.
Turning it clockwise results in a slower/lower idle
speed.
1. If the engine is cold, start it and warm it up 3
minutes. Then shut it off.
2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. Shift the transmission into neutral. Start the
engine.
4. Keep the motorcycle in an upright position.
5. Adjust idle speed with the fast idle knob (1).
Idle speed: 2,000 ± 100 rpm
Idle Speed Adjustment
(1) fast idle knob
(+) increase
(–) decrease
(1)
(–)
(+)
Clutch System
Servicing Your Honda 61
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
The distance between the tip of the clutch lever and
the grip may be adjusted.
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
the clutch lever position adjustment or clutch cable
disconnected.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. To position the clutch lever farther away from
the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2)
counterclockwise. To position the clutch lever
closer to the handgrip, turn the adjuster
clockwise.
3. Tighten the lock nut.
4. Turn the cable end adjuster (3) in direction (+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out five
turns.
5. Loosen the lock nut (4) and turn the integral
cable adjuster (5) to adjust the clutch lever
freeplay at the tip of lever.
Freeplay: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
Tighten the lock nut.
6.
Adjust the cable end adjuster for minor
adjustment (page 62).
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Improper freeplay adjustment can cause premature
clutch wear.
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
the clutch cable is disconnected.
Clutch Lever Adjustment
(1) lock nut (2) adjuster
(1)
(2)
(3) cable end adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay
(4) lock nut
(5) integral cable adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay
(3)
(–)
(+)
(5)
(4)
(–)
(+)
Clutch Lever Freeplay
(1) freeplay
(1)
62 Servicing Your Honda
Clutch System
Cable End Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
clutch cable end adjuster.
Turning the cable end adjuster (1) in direction (+)
will increase freeplay and turning it in direction (–)
will decrease freeplay.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the
correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in and back out one turn and
make the adjustment with the integral cable
adjuster.
Integral Cable Adjustment
The integral cable adjuster is used if the cable end
adjuster is threaded out near its limit — or the
correct freeplay cannot be obtained.
1. Turn the cable end adjuster in direction (+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out five
turns.
2. Loosen the lock nut (1).
3. Turn the integral cable adjuster (2) to obtain
the specified freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut. Check the freeplay.
5. Start the engine, pull the clutch lever in, and
shift into gear. Make sure the engine does not
stall and the motorcycle does not creep.
Gradually release the clutch lever and open the
throttle. Your CRF should move smoothly and
accelerate gradually.
If you can’t get proper adjustment, or the clutch
does not work properly, the cable may be kinked or
worn, or the clutch discs may be worn.
Inspect the clutch discs and plates (page 64).
• Check that the clutch lever assembly is
positioned properly (the end of the holder (1) is
aligned with the paint mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
• Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of
wear. If necessary, have it replaced.
• Lubricate the clutch cable with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
wear and corrosion.
1. Check for smooth clutch lever operation. If
necessary, lubricate the clutch lever pivot bolt
sliding surface with grease and/or clutch cable
with commercially available cable lubricant.
2. Check the clutch cable for deterioration, kinks,
or damage.
(1) cable end adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay
(1)
(–)
(+)
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) integral cable adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
(2)
(1)
(–)
(+)
Other Inspections & Lubrication
(1) holder (2) paint mark
Clutch Operation
(1)
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 63
Clutch System
1. Drain the transmission oil (page 52).
2. Remove the clutch cover bolt A (1), clutch
cover bolts B (2), and clutch cover (3).
3. Remove the five clutch spring bolts and
springs (4).
Loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three progressive steps.
4. Remove the clutch pressure plate (5).
5. Remove the clutch lifter assembly (6) first,
then remove the clutch lifter rod (7).
6. Disassemble the clutch lifter (8), needle
bearing (9) and washer (10) by removing the
clip (11). Turn the needle bearing with your
finger. The needle bearing should turn
smoothly and quietly.
Replace the needle bearing and washer if the
needle bearing does not turn smoothly.
7. Remove the eight clutch discs, seven clutch
plates, judder spring and spring seat (12).
Clutch Disc/Plate Removal
(1) clutch cover bolt A (3) clutch cover
(2) clutch cover bolts B
(1)
(3)
(2)
(4) clutch spring bolts and springs
(5) clutch pressure plate
(6) clutch lifter assembly (7) clutch lifter rod
(5)
(4)
(7)
(6)
(8) clutch lifter (10) washer
(9) needle bearing (11) clip
(12) clutch discs, clutch plates, judder spring and spring
seat
(9)
(8)
(11)
(10)
(12)
64 Servicing Your Honda
Clutch System
• Replace the clutch discs (1) if they show signs of
scoring or discoloration.
Measure the thickness of each clutch disc.
Service Limit: 0.112 in (2.85 mm)
Replace the clutch discs and clutch plates as a
set.
• Check the clutch plates (2) for excessive
warpage or discoloration.
Check the plate warpage on a surface plate using
a feeler gauge.
Service Limit: 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Replace the clutch discs and plates as a set.
• If you feel the clutch slippage when replacing the
clutch discs and plates, replace the clutch
springs.
1. Install the spring seat (1) and judder spring (2)
onto the clutch center as shown.
Coat the clutch discs (3) and clutch plates (4)
with engine oil.
2. Install the clutch disc A (larger I.D. disc) (5)
onto the clutch outer.
Stack the seven clutch plates and seven clutch
discs alternately.
3. Apply engine oil to the needle bearing (6) and
washer (7) and install them onto the clutch
lifter (8). Then, install a new clip (9) by fitting
it into the groove in the clutch lifter.
Clutch Disc/Plate Inspection
(1) clutch discs
(2) clutch plates
(1)
(2)
Clutch Disc/Plate Installation
(1) spring seat (4) clutch plates
(2) judder spring (5) clutch disc A
(3) clutch discs
(3)
(1)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(6) needle bearing (8) clutch lifter
(7) washer (9) clip (new)
(7)
(9)
(6)
(8)
Servicing Your Honda 65
Clutch System
4. Apply grease to the clutch lifter rod (10) and
insert it into the mainshaft.
5. Install the clutch lifter assembly (11) onto the
rod.
6. Install the clutch pressure plate (12).
7. Install the five clutch springs and bolts (13).
8. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two
or three steps to the specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
9. Apply oil to a new O-ring (14) and install it in
the groove of the clutch cover (15).
10. Install the cover by tightening the cover bolts
A and B in a crisscross pattern in two or three
steps to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
11.
Fill the crankcase with transmission oil
(page 52).
(10) clutch lifter rod (11) clutch lifter assembly
(12) clutch pressure plate
(13) clutch springs and bolts
(10)
(11)
(12)
(13)
(14) O-ring (new) (15) clutch cover
(15)
(14)
Spark Plug
66 Servicing Your Honda
Spark Plug
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
The recommended standard spark plug is
satisfactory for most racing conditions.
Use only the recommended type of spark plugs in
the recommended heat range.
NOTICE
Using a spark plug with an improper heat range or
incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Using a non-resistor spark plug may cause
ignition problems.
This motorcycle uses a spark plug that has an
iridium tip in the center electrode and a platinum
tip in the side electrode.
Be sure to observe the following when servicing
the spark plug.
• Do not clean the spark plug. If an electrode is
contaminated with accumulated objects or dirt,
replace the spark plug with a new one.
• To check the spark plug gap, use only a “wire-
type feeler gauge.” To prevent damaging the
iridium tip of the center electrode and platinum
tip of the side electrode, never use a “leaf-type
feeler gauge.”
• Do not adjust the spark plug gap. If the gap is out
of specification, replace the spark plug with a
new one.
1.
Remove the seat and hang the fuel tan
k to the
left of the frame (
pages 33, 34
).
2. Disconnect the spark plug cap (1).
3. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug
base.
4. Remove the spark plug (2).
5. Check the electrodes for wear or deposits, the
sealing gasket (3) for damage, and the insulator
for cracks. Replace if you detect them.
6. Check the spark plug gap (4), using a wire-type
feeler gauge. If the gap is out of specifications,
replace the plug with a new one.
The recommended spark plug gap is:
0.024 – 0.028 in (0.6 – 0.7 mm)
7. To obtain accurate spark plug readings,
accelerate up to speed on a straightaway.
Press and hold the engine stop button and
disengage the clutch by pulling the lever in.
Coast to a stop, then remove and inspect the
spark plug. The porcelain insulator around the
center electrode should appear tan or medium
gray.
If you’re using a new plug, ride for at least 10
minutes before taking a plug reading; a brand-new
plug will not color initially.
If the electrodes appear burnt, o
r the insulator is
white or light gray (lean) or th
e electrodes and
insulator are black or fouled (
rich), there is a
problem elsewhere (
page 135).
Check the PGM-FI system and ignition timing.
8. With the sealing gasket attached, thread the
spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-
threading.
9. Tighten the spark plug.
• If the old plug is good:
1/8 turn after it seats.
• If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to
prevent loosening:
a) First, tighten the plug:
1/2 turn after it seats.
b) Then loosen the plug.
c) Next, tighten the plug again:
1/8 turn after it seats.
NOTICE
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may be
damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may be
damaged.
10. Connect the spark plug cap. Take care to avoid
pinching any cables or wires.
11.
Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 33, 35).
Spark Plug Recommendation
Standard R0451B – 8 (NGK)
Spark Plug Inspection & Replacement
(1) spark plug cap (2) spark plug
(3) sealing gasket
(4) spark plug gap
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
Valve Clearance
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 67
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Excessive valve clearance will cause noise and
eventual engine damage. Little or no clearance will
prevent the valve from closing and cause valve
damage and power loss. Check valve clearance
when the engine is cold at the intervals specified in
the Maintenance Schedule (page 25).
The checking or adjusting of the valve clearance
should be performed while the engine is cold.
The valve clearance will change as engine
temperature rises.
Before inspection, clean the engine thoroughly to
keep dirt from entering the engine.
1.
Remove the seat and hang the fuel tank to the
left of the frame (pages 33, 34).
2. Disconnect the breather tube (1) and spark
plug cap (2).
3. Remove the cylinder head cover bolts, rubber
seals (3) and cylinder head cover (4).
1. Remove the crankshaft hole cap (1).
2.
Remove the spark plug (page 66).
3.
Remove the cylinder head cover (this page).
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
(1) breather tube (2) spark plug cap
(3) cylinder head cover bolts and rubber seals
(4) cylinder head cover
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
Positioning At TDC On The
Compression Stroke
(1) crankshaft hole cap
(1)
68 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
4. Rotate the crankshaft by turning the primary
drive gear bolt (2) clockwise until the punch
mark (3) on the primary drive gear aligns with
the index mark (4) on the right crankcase
cover. In this position, the piston may either be
on the compression or exhaust stroke at TDC.
If the crankshaft passed the punch mark, rotate
the primary drive gear bolt clockwise again
and align the punch mark with the index mark.
The inspection must be made when the piston
is at the top of the compression stroke when
both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.
This condition can be determined by moving
the exhaust rocker arm (5). If it is free, an
indication that the valves are closed and that
the piston is on the compression stroke. If it is
tight and the valves are open, rotate the
primary drive gear bolt 360° and realign the
punch mark with the index mark.
1.
Set the piston at TDC on the compression
stroke (page 67).
2. Measure the intake valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the valve
lifters (2) and intake cam lobes (3).
Valve Clearance:
(2) primary drive gear bolt (4) index mark
(3) punch mark
(3)
(4)
(2)
(5) exhaust rocker arm
(5)
Valve Clearance Inspection
(1) feeler gauge
(2) valve lifters
(3) intake cam lobes
IN: 0.005 ± 0.001 in (0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1)
Valve Clearance
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 69
3. Measure the exhaust valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the
exhaust rocker arm (4) and shims (5).
Valve Clearance:
If intake valve clearance and exhaust valve
clearance need adjustment, see Camshaft Removal
(this page) and select the correct shim for each
valve.
1.
Record the intake valve and exhaust valve
clearances (page 68, 69).
Make sure the piston is at TDC on the
compression stroke (page 67).
2. Remove the condenser stay mounting bolts (1).
3. Remove the cam chain tensioner lifter cover
bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
4. Insert the tensioner stopper (4) into the cam
chain tensioner lifter (5).
Turn the tensioner stopper clockwise and lock
the cam chain tensioner lifter by pushing the
handle (6) to the cam chain tensioner lifter.
(1) feeler gauge
(4) exhaust rocker arm
(5) exhaust valve shims
EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
(1)
(5)
(4)
Camshaft Removal
(1) condenser stay mounting bolts
(2) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(3) sealing washer
(1)
(3)
(2)
• Tensioner stopper 070MG-0010100
07AMG-001A100
(USA only)
(4) tensioner stopper
(5) cam chain tensioner lifter
(6) handle
(5)
(6)
(4)
70 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
5.
Make sure the piston is at TDC on the
compression stroke (page 67).
Loosen the camshaft holder bolts A (7), B (8)
in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps.
Remove the camshaft holder bolts, set rings
and camshaft holders (9).
As you remove the camshaft holder, set rings may
be sticking in the camshaft holder.
NOTICE
Do not let the set rings fall into the crankcase.
If the set rings are remained on the camshaft
holder, remove the set rings carefully.
6. Slide the left camshaft bearing (10) and
remove the camshaft (11) by removing the cam
chain (12).
Suspend the cam chain with a piece of wire to
prevent the chain from falling into the crankcase.
NOTICE
Do not let the cam chain fall into the crankcase.
7. Remove the intake valve lifters (13).
Keep the intake valve lifters and shims separate so
you can easily identify the originally installed
location such as intake or exhaust, right or left.
8. Remove the valve shims (14).
(7) camshaft holder bolts A
(8) camshaft holder bolts B
(9) set rings and camshaft holders
(9)
(8)
(9)
(7)
(10) left camshaft bearing
(11) camshaft
(12) cam chain
(12)
(10)
(11)
(13) intake valve lifters
(14) valve shims
(13)
(14)
(14)
Servicing Your Honda 71
Valve Clearance
1. Clean the valve shim contact area in the valve
lifter (1) with compressed air.
2. Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer
and record it.
Sixty-nine different shims (2) are available in
0.025 mm thickness intervals, from 1.200 mm
(the thinnest) to 2.900 mm (the thickest).
3. Calculate the new shim thickness using the
equation below.
A = (B – C) + D
A: New shim thickness
B: Recorded valve clearance
C: Specified valve clearance
D: Old shim thickness
• Make sure of the correct shim thickness by
measuring the shim with a micrometer.
• Reface the exhaust valve seat if carbon deposits
result in a calculated dimension of over 2.900
mm.
NOTICE
Do not lap the intake valves. They are titanium
and have a thin oxide coating. Lapping will
damage this coating.
If a calculated dimension is out of specifications,
have your motorcycle inspected by your dealer.
Shim Selection
(1) valve lifter
(1)
(2) shim
(2)
1.80 mm 1.825 mm 1.85 mm
1.875 mm
72 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
1. Install the newly selected shims (1) on the
valve spring retainers (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the following parts.
– camshaft cam lobes
– each valve lifter outer surface
3. Install each valve lifter (3) in their original
location into the cylinder head (4).
4.
Make sure the piston is at TDC (page 67).
5. Place the camshaft (5) with the intake cam
lobes (6) facing up and align the timing marks
(7) on the cam sprocket (8) with the surface of
the cylinder head (9).
Install the cam chain (10) over the sprocket
without rotating the camshaft.
Camshaft Installation
(1) shims
(2) valve spring retainers
(1)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(3) valve lifters
(4) cylinder head
(5) camshaft (10) cam chain
(6) intake cam lobes
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(10)
(7) timing marks
(8) cam sprocket
(9) surface of the cylinder head
(7)
(8)
(9)
Valve Clearance
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 73
6. Make sure that the dowel pins (11) are installed
into the camshaft holders (12).
7. Install the set rings (13) on the camshaft
bearing grooves (14).
NOTICE
Do not let the set rings fall into the crankcase.
Each camshaft holder has an indentification mark
(15).
8. Install the camshaft holders (12) in their proper
position by aligning the camshaft holder
grooves with the set rings (13).
9. Apply oil to the camshaft holder bolt threads
and seating surface.
Tighten the camshaft holder bolts A (16) and B
(17) to the specified torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
Tighten the camshaft holder bolts in a crisscross
pattern in two or three steps.
10. Remove the tensioner stopper (18) from the
cam chain tensioner lifter.
11. Install a new sealing washer (19) and tighten
the cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt (20).
(11) dowel pins
(12) camshaft holders
(13) set rings
(14) camshaft bearing grooves
(12)
(11)
(13)
(14)
(13)
(11)
(15) identification marks
(12) camshaft holders
(16) camshaft holder bolts A
(17) camshaft holder bolts B
(15)
(12)
(17)
(12)
(16)
(18) tensioner stopper
(19) sealing washer (new)
(20) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(18)
(19)
(20)
74 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
12. Install the condenser stay (21) and tighten the
condenser stay mounting bolts (22).
13.
Rotate the camshaft by rotating the crankshaft
clockwise several times and make sure that the
piston is at TDC on the compression stroke
(page 67).
14. Measure the intake valve and exhaust valve
clearances by inserting a feeler gauge (23).
Valve Clearance:
1.
Install the spark plug (page 66).
2. Coat a new O-ring (1) with engine oil and
install it onto the crankshaft hole cap (2).
Apply grease to the crankshaft hole cap
threads. Install and tighten the crankshaft hole
cap to the specified torque:
11 lbf·ft (15 N·m, 1.5 kgf·m)
(21) condenser stay
(22) condenser stay mounting bolts
IN: 0.005 ± 0.001 in (0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
(23) feeler gauge
(22)
(21)
(23)
(23)
Crankshaft Hole Cap Installation
(1) O-ring (new)
(2) crankshaft hole cap
(2)
(1)
Servicing Your Honda 75
Valve Clearance
1. Check that the spark plug hole packing (1) is in
good condition and replace it if necessary.
Apply engine oil to the spark plug hole packing
and install it to the cylinder head cover (2).
2. Check that the cylinder head cover packing (3)
is in good condition and replace it if necessary.
Install the cylinder head cover packing into the
cylinder head cover groove.
3. Check that the rubber seals (4) are in good
condition, replace them if necessary.
Install the rubber seals onto the cylinder head
cover with the “UP” marks (5) facing up.
4. Install the cylinder head cover (2) and tighten
the cylinder head cover bolts (6) to the
specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Connect the spark plug cap (7) and breather
tube (8).
6.
Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 33, 35).
Cylinder Head Cover Installation
(1) spark plug hole packing
(2) cylinder head cover
(3) cylinder head cover packing
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4) rubber seals (5) “UP” marks
(2) cylinder head cover
(6) cylinder head cover bolts
(4)
(5)
(5)
(6)
(2)
(7) spark plug cap
(8) breather tube
(7)
(8)
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
76 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Clean the area above the engine before
disassembly to prevent dirt falling into the
engine.
2.
Drain the radiator coolant after cooling the
motorcycle (page 145).
3.
Remove the seat and hang the fuel tank
(pages33, 34).
4.
Remove the left and right mufflers (page 100)
and subframe (page 37).
5.
Remove the exhaust pipe (page 103).
6.
Remove the spark plug (page 66).
7.
Remove the cylinder head cover (page 67).
8.
Set the piston at TDC on the compression
stroke (page 67).
9.
Remove the camshaft holders, camshaft, valve
lifters and shims (page 69).
10. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector (1).
11. Loosen the radiator hose clamp screw (2) and
disconnect the radiator hose (3).
12. Disconnect the crankcase breather tube A (4)
from the air cleaner connecting tube.
13. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector (5).
14. Release the crankcase breather tube B (6) from
the clip (7).
15. Loosen the screw (8) on the air cleaner
connecting tube clamp (9).
Cylinder Head Removal
(1) ECT sensor connector
(2) radiator hose clamp screw
(3) radiator hose
(1)
(3)
(2)
(4) crankcase breather tube A
(5) IAT sensor connector
(6) crankcase breather tube B
(7) clip
(8) screw
(9) air cleaner connecting tube clamp
(7)
(6)
(4)
(5)
(9)
(8)
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 77
16. Remove the air cleaner case (10) along with air
cleaner connecting tube.
17. Remove the rear shock absorber upper nut and
bolt (11).
18. Loosen the insulator band screw (12) and pull
the throttle body (13) out from the insulator
(14).
Do not hang the throttle body and support it with a
suitable strap.
19. Remove the cylinder head hanger bolts (15).
Remove the cylinder head hanger plate bolts
(16), left cylinder head hanger plate (17) and
right cylinder head hanger plate (18).
(10) air cleaner case
(11) rear shock absorber upper nut and bolt
(10)
(11)
(12) insulator band screw
(13) throttle body
(14) insulator
(14)
(13)
(12)
(15) cylinder head hanger bolts
(16) cylinder head hanger plate bolts
(17) left cylinder head hanger plate
(18) right cylinder head hanger plate
(15)
(16)
(17)
Left side:
(15)
(16)
(18)
Right side:
78 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
20. Remove the cylinder head A bolts (19).
21. Loosen the cylinder bolt (20).
22. Remove the cylinder head B bolts, washers
(21) and the cylinder head (22).
Loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three steps.
NOTICE
Do not let the washers and cam chain fall into the
crankcase.
23. Remove the dowel pins (23) and cylinder head
gasket (24).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins and cam chain fall into
the crankcase.
24. Remove the cam chain guide (25) from the
cylinder (26).
1. Remove the cylinder bolt (1) and cylinder (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the cam chain fall into the crankcase.
Do not pry on or strike the cylinder.
(19) cylinder head A bolts
(20) cylinder bolt
(21) cylinder head B bolts and washers
(22) cylinder head
(19)
(20)
(21)
(21)
(22)
(23) dowel pins
(24) cylinder head gasket
(25) cam chain guide
(26) cylinder
(23)
(24)
(25)
(26)
Cylinder Removal
(1) cylinder bolt (2) cylinder
(2)
(1)
Servicing Your Honda 79
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
2. Remove the dowel pins (3) and cylinder gasket
(4).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
1. Place clean shop towels in the crankcase to
keep the piston pin clips, or other parts, from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Remove the piston pin clips (1) using a pair of
needle-nose pliers.
3. Press the piston pin (2) out of the piston (3),
and remove the piston.
Under racing conditions, the piston and rings
should be replaced every 6 races or about every
15.0 hours of running. Replace the piston pin every
6 races or about every 15.0 hours of running.
Spread each piston ring (1) and remove by lifting it
up at a point just opposite the gap.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
(3) dowel pins (4) cylinder gasket
(4)
(3)
Piston Removal
(1) piston pin clips (3) piston
(2) piston pin
(1)(2)
(3)
(1)
Piston Ring Removal
(1) piston ring
(1)
80 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
We recommend you consult an official Honda
Service Manual or your dealer for correct Service
Limit measurements.
1. Remove the carbon deposits from the piston
head and piston ring grooves.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston when removing the
carbon deposit.
2. Apply engine oil to each piston ring whole
surface.
3. Install the spacer (1) first, then install the side
rails (2) to the piston (3).
4. Install the top ring (4) to the piston with
“RNM” mark (5) side facing up.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
Do not damage the piston during piston ring
installation.
5. After installing the piston rings they should
rotate freely, without sticking.
Space the ring end gaps 180 degrees apart
between top ring and upper side rail.
Space the ring end gaps 90 degrees apart
between upper side rail, spacer and lower side
rail.
Piston/Piston Pin/Piston Ring Inspection Piston Ring Installation
(1) spacer (4) top ring
(2) side rails (5) “RNM” mark
(3) piston
(4)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(3)
Servicing Your Honda 81
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Place clean shop towels (1) over the crankcase
opening to keep the piston pin clips from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the connecting rod small
end (2) inner surface.
3. Install the piston (3) with the “ ” mark (4)
and/or the large valve recesses (5) facing the
intake side of the engine.
4. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the piston pin (6) outer
surface.
Apply engine oil to the piston outer surface and
piston pin hole inner surface.
Install the piston pin and new piston pin clips
(7).
NOTICE
Use new pin clips. Never reuse old clips.
Do not let the clips fall into the crankcase.
Do not align the piston pin clip end gap with the
piston cutout (8).
Piston Installation
(1) shop towels
(2) connecting rod small end
(2)
(1)
(3) piston (6) piston pin
(4) “ ” mark
(7) piston pin clip
(5) large valve recess (8) piston cut-out
(3)
(4)
(5)
(3) (4)
(6) (7)
(7)
(7)
(8)
82 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Clean off any gasket material from the gasket
surface of the crankcase, being careful not to
let any material fall into the crankcase.
2. Remove the shop towels. Do not let any gasket
debris fall into the crankcase.
3. Install a new cylinder gasket (1) and dowel
pins (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
4. Clean any gasket material off cylinder (3).
5. Apply engine oil to the cylinder wall, piston
outer surface and piston rings (4).
Route the cam chain (5) through the cylinder.
Install the cylinder over the piston rings by
hand while compressing the piston rings.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston rings and cylinder
walls.
Cylinder Installation
(1) cylinder gasket (2) dowel pins
(1)
(2)
(3) cylinder (5) cam chain
(4) piston rings
(4) (5)
(3)
Servicing Your Honda 83
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Clean any gasket material off cylinder head.
2. Install the cam chain guide (1) and fit the cam
chain guide tabs (2) in the cylinder cut-outs
(3).
Push the guide until it bottoms in the crankcase
guide groove.
3. Install the dowel pins (4) and a new cylinder
head gasket (5).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
4. Route the cam chain through the cylinder head
and install the cylinder head (6).
NOTICE
Do not damage mating surfaces when installing
the cylinder head.
5. Apply engine oil to all cylinder head B bolt
threads and seating surface.
Install the washers and cylinder head B bolts (7).
Install the cylinder bolt (8) and cylinder head A
bolts (9).
6. Tighten the washers and cylinder head B bolts
to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern in
two or three steps:
33 lbf·ft (45 N·m, 4.6 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Do not let the washers fall into the crankcase.
7. Tighten the cylinder bolt and cylinder head A
bolts to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
Cylinder Head Installation
(1) cam chain guide (3) cylinder cut-outs
(2) cam chain guide tabs
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4) dowel pins
(5) cylinder head gasket (new)
(4)
(5)
(6) cylinder head
(7) washers and cylinder head B bolts
(8) cylinder bolt
(9) cylinder head A bolts
(7)
(7)
(6)
(8)
(9)
84 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
8. Install the left cylinder head hanger plate (10)
and right cylinder head hanger plate (11), then
loosely install the cylinder head hanger plate
bolts (12) and cylinder head hanger bolts (13).
Tighten the cylinder head hanger bolts and
cylinder head hanger plate bolts to the
specified torque:
cylinder head hanger bolts:
40 lbf·ft (54 N·m, 5.5 kgf·m)
cylinder head hanger plate bolts:
24 lbf·ft (32 N·m, 3.3 kgf·m)
9. Install the throttle body (14) to the insulator
(15) by aligning the tab of the throttle body
with the groove of the insulator and tighten the
insulator band screw (16) so the distance
between the band ends is 0.43 ± 0.04 in (11.0
± 1.0 mm).
10. Set the rear shock absorber (17) and install the
rear shock absorber upper bolt (18) and nut
(19) as shown.
Tighten the rear shock absorber upper nut to
the specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
11. Install the air cleaner connecting tube (20)
along with air cleaner case to the throttle body.
Tighten the air cleaner connecting tube band
screw (21) so the distance between the band
ends is 0.2 – 0.4 in (6 – 9 mm).
(10) left cylinder head hanger plate
(11) right cylinder head hanger plate
(12) cylinder head hanger plate bolts
(13) cylinder head hanger bolts
(12)
(13)
(10)
Left side:
(11)
(12)
(13)
Right side:
(14) throttle body (16) insulator band screw
(15) insulator
(17) rear shock absorber (19) nut
(18) rear shock absorber upper bolt
(14)
(15)
(16)
0.43 ± 0.04 in
(11.0 ± 1.0 mm)
(18)
(17)
(19)
(20) air cleaner connecting tube
(21) air cleaner connecting tube band screw
(20)
(21)
0.2 – 0.4 in
(6 – 9 mm)
Servicing Your Honda 85
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
12. Connect the breather tube A (22).
Connect the IAT sensor connector (23).
13. Secure the breather tube B (24) with the clip
(25).
14. Connect the radiator hose (26) to the water
hose joint (27) of the cylinder head.
15. Tighten the radiator hose clamp screw (28) as
illustrated below.
16. Connect the ECT sensor connector (29).
17.
Install the shims, valve lifters, camshaft and
camshaft holder (page 72).
18.
Install the crankshaft hole cap (page 74).
19.
Install the cylinder head cover (SDJH).
20. Install the spark plug (page 66).
21.
Install the exhaust pipe (page 103).
22.
Install the subframe (page 37) and left and
right mufflers (page 101).
23.
Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 33, 35).
24.
Fill and bleed the cooling system (page 145).
Check for the following:
– compression leaks
– abnormal engine noise
– secondary air leaks
– exhaust gas leaks
– coolant leaks
– oil leaks
(22) breather tube A
(23) IAT sensor connector
(24) breather tube B
(25) clip
(26) radiator hose
(27) water hose joint
(23)
(22)
(24)
(25)
(26)
(27)
(28) radiator hose clamp screw
(29) ECT sensor connector
(28)
0 – 0.04 in
(0 – 1.0 mm)
(29)
Suspension
86 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Loose, worn, or damaged suspension components
may adversely affect the handling and stability of
your CRF. If any suspension components appear
worn or damaged, see your dealer for further
inspection. Your dealer is qualified to determine
whether or not replacement parts or repairs are
needed.
•
When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour to ensure that the
suspension has worked in (page 19).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the
front suspension at the standard setting before
attempting any adjustments.
•
For optimum fork performance, we
recommend that you disassemble and clean the
fork after riding your CRF for 3 hours.
See page 114 for fork disassembly.
•
Replace the fork oil every 3 races or 7.5 hours
of running. See page 88 for oil capacity
adjustment after changing the fork oil.
•
Replace the damper oil every 9 races or 22.5
hours of running. See page 117 for damper
fork oil replacement.
• Use HP Fork Oil, SS-19 or an equivalent
which contains special additives to assure
maximum performance of your CRF’s front
suspension.
• Periodically check and clean all front
suspension parts to assure top performance.
Check the dust seals for dust, dirt, and foreign
materials. Check the oil for any contamination.
•
Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page 132). Make all rebound and compression
damping adjustments in one-click increments.
(Adjusting two or more clicks at a time may
cause you to pass over the best adjustment.)
Test ride after each adjustment.
• If you become confused about adjustment
settings, return to the standard position and
start over.
• If the fork is still too stiff/soft after adjusting
compression damping, determine which
portion of the travel is still too stiff/soft. This is
an important step that will help you solve
suspension problems.
1. Make sure that the fork protectors (1) and dust
seals (2) are clean and not packed with mud
and dirt.
2. Check for signs of oil leakage. Damaged or
leaking fork seals should be replaced before
your CRF is ridden.
3. Inspect the wear rings (3) for wear or damage.
Replace the wear ring if it is 0.06 in (1.5 mm)
or flush with the outer tube (4). Remove the
fork leg when replacing the wear ring.
Install the wear ring with its end gap (5) facing
rearward.
4. Make a quick check of fork operation by
locking the front brake and pushing down on
the handlebar several times.
Front Suspension Inspection
(1) fork protectors (2) dust seals
(1)
(2)
(3) wear rings (4) outer tube
(3) wear rings (5) end gaps
(4)
(3)
(3)
0.06 in (1.5 mm)
(3)
(5)
Servicing Your Honda 87
Suspension
The swingarm is controlled by one hydraulic shock
absorber with an aluminum reservoir for oil and
nitrogen gas pressure. The gas pressure in the
reservoir is contained within a rubber bladder.
The rear suspension’s spring pre-load and damping
adjustments (compression and rebound) should be
adjusted for the rider’s weight and track conditions
(pages 129, 134).
Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or dispose
of the damper; see your dealer.
The instructions found in this owner’s manual are
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only.
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour with the standard
suspension settings before attempting to adjust
the rear suspension.
•
Refer to Suspension Adjustment Information
(page 134) for making all rebound and
compression damping adjustments in one click
or 1/12 turn increments. (Adjusting two or
more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to
pass over the best adjustment.)
Test ride after each adjustment.
• If the rear suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust it
by turning all the compression and rebound
adjusters according to the procedures
described in page 128. After adjusting the
adjusters simultaneously, suspension may be
fine-tuned by turning one of the compression
and rebound damping adjusters in one click or
in 1/12 turn increments.
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable
adjustment, return to the standard position and
begin again.
1. Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down
and check for smooth suspension action.
2.
Remove the right and left mufflers (page 100),
subframe (page 37) and air cleaner case along
with air cleaner connecting tube (page 76).
3. Check for a broken or collapsed spring.
4. Check the rear shock absorber (1) for a bent
rod or oil leaks.
5. Push the rear wheel sideways to check for
worn or loose swingarm bearings. There
should be no movement. If there is, have the
bearings replaced by your dealer.
Rear Suspension Inspection
(1) rear shock absorber
(1)
88 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
Fork Oil Change
Refer to Front Suspension Disassembly on
page 114 for front suspension removal.
1. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding
surface of the slider and dust seal.
2. Hold the outer tube (1), then remove the fork
damper (2) from the outer tube using a lock nut
wrench (3). Gently slide the outer tube down
onto the lower end of the slider (4).
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
NOTICE
The outer tube (1) can drop on the slider (4) and
damage the fork dust seal (5). To avoid damage,
hold both the outer tube and slider when removing
the fork damper.
3. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube (1).
Drain the fork oil from the oil holes (6) of the
fork damper.
4. Drain the fork oil by turning the outer tube (1)
upside down. (About 0.46 US oz (13.7 cm
3
) of
fork oil will be left in the outer tube when it is left
inverted for about 20 minutes at 68°F/20°C.)
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 146).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained oil is harmful to the
environment.
Recommended Fork Oil
suggested oil HP Fork Oil, SS-19
(1) outer tube (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork damper (4) slider
(2)
(1)
(3)
(1)
(4)
(1) outer tube (5) fork dust seal
(4) slider
(1) outer tube (6) oil holes
(1)
(5)
(4)
(1)
(6)
(1) outer tube
Amount of fork oil left in the fork
(within damper and spring) unit: cm
3
minute
°C/°F
5 1020355585145
30/86 16.5 14.1 12.7 11.8 11 10.1 8.6
20/68 17.4 15 13.7 12.6 11.5 10.5 9.1
10/50 18.9 16.5 14.8 13.7 12.5 11.4 9.8
0/32 20 18.4 15.9 14.5 13.7 13 11.7
(1)
Inverted time
0°C/32°F
10°C/50°F
20°C/68°F
30°C/86°F
Amount of fork oil
(minutes)
Servicing Your Honda 89
Suspension
5.
Pour the recommended fork oil (page 88) into
the outer tube.
Fork Oil Capacity:
Standard 26.21 lbf/in (4.59 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Softer 25.12 lbf/in (4.40 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 27.41 lbf/in (4.80 N/mm) Fork Spring
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
legs.
6.
Check that the O-ring (7) on the fork damper
(2) is in good condition. Apply the
recommended fork oil to the O-ring.
Temporarily install the fork damper to the
outer tube (1).
After installing the fork leg (page 120), tighten
the fork
damper to the specified torque using a
lock nut wrench:
Actual:
25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
Torque wrench scale reading:
23 lbf·ft (31 N·m, 3.2 kgf·m), using a 20 in
(50 cm) long deflecting beam type torque
wrench.
When using the lock nut wrench, use a 20 in (50
cm) long deflecting beam type torque wrench with
a lock nut wrench. The lock nut wrench increases
the torque wrench’s leverage, so the torque wrench
reading will be less than the torque actually applied
to the fork damper.
(1) outer tube
Standard oil
capacity
12.1 US oz
(357 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.0 US oz
(384 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.1 US oz
(300 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
(1)
2 scribe marks
No mark
(factory products)
Standard oil
capacity
12.0 US oz
(354 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.9 US oz
(381 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.1 US oz
(298 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(350 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.8 US oz
(377 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
9.9 US oz
(294 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
No mark
3 scribe marks
(1) outer tube
(2) fork damper
(7) O-ring
(7)
(2)
(1)
Brakes
90 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Both the front and rear brakes are the hydraulic
disc type. As the brake pads wear, the brake fluid
level will drop. A leak in the system will also cause
the level to drop.
Frequently inspect the system to ensure there are
no fluid leaks. Periodically inspect the brake fluid
level and the brake pads for wear.
If the braking response of the front brake lever or
rear pedal feels unusual, check the brake pads. If
the brake pads are not worn beyond the
recommended limit (page 93), there is probably air
in the brake system.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual or see
your dealer to have the air bled from the system.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. To position the front brake lever farther away
from the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2)
clockwise.
To position the front brake lever closer to the
handgrip, turn the adjuster counterclockwise.
3. While holding the adjuster, tighten the lock nut
to the specified torque:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
4. Apply silicone grease to the contacting areas of
the adjuster.
The rear brake pedal height should be
approximately level with the right footpeg.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1) and turn the push rod
(2) in direction (+) to raise the rear brake pedal
(3) or in direction (–) to lower it.
2. Tighten the push rod lock nut to the specified
torque at the desired pedal height.
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
Front Brake Lever Adjustment
(1) lock nut
(2) adjuster
(1)
(2)
Rear Brake Pedal Height
(1) lock nut (+) raise the pedal height
(2) push rod (–) lower the pedal height
(3) rear brake pedal
(2)
(1)
(3)
(+)
(–)
Servicing Your Honda 91
Brakes
Front Brake Fluid Level Check
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LWR mark (1). If the level
is at or below the LWR mark, check the brake pads
for wear (page 93).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected for
leaks.
If the pulling distance for the front brake lever
feels excessive, there is probably air in the brake
system and it must be bled. Refer to an official
Honda Service
Manual or see your dealer for brake
bleeding.
Honda recommends using Pro Honda DOT 4
Brake Fluid from a sealed container, or an
equivalent.
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
Rear Brake Fluid Level Check
With
the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LOWER mark (1). If the
level is at or below the LOWER mar
k, check the
brake pads for wear (page 93
).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are
not
worn,
have
your
brake
system
inspected
for
leaks.
If the travel for the rear brake
pedal feels
excessive,
there
is
probably
air
in
the
brake
system
and it must be bled. Refer to an official Honda
Service Manual or see your dealer for brake
bleeding.
Honda recommends using Pro Honda DOT 4
Brake Fluid from a sealed container, or an
equivalent.
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
Fluid Level Inspection
(1) LWR mark
(1)
(1) LOWER mark
(1)
92 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Adding Front Brake Fluid
NOTICE
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage painted
surfaces. It is also harmful to some rubber parts.
Be careful whenever you remove the reservoir
cap; make sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not be
compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 Brake Fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the front brake reservoir cap screws
(1), reservoir cap (2) and diaphragm (3).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT4 brake fluid to the
upper level mark (4). Do not overfill.
3. Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the front brake reservoir cap screws to
the specified torque:
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
Adding Rear Brake Fluid
NOTICE
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage painted
surfaces. It is also harmful to some rubber parts.
Be careful whenever you remove the reservoir
cap; make sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not be
compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 Brake Fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the rear brake reservoir cap bolts (1),
reservoir cap (2), set plate (3) and diaphragm
(4).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT4 brake fluid to the
upper level mark (5). Do not overfill.
3. Install the diaphragm, set plate and reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the rear brake reservoir cap bolts to the
specified torque:
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
(1) front brake reservoir cap screws
(2) reservoir cap
(3) diaphragm
(4) upper level mark
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(1) rear brake reservoir cap bolts
(2) reservoir cap
(3) set plate
(4) diaphragm
(5) upper level mark
(1)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(3)
Servicing Your Honda 93
Brakes
Brake pad wear depends on the severity of usage
and track conditions. (Generally, the pads will
wear faster with wet and dirty track conditions.)
Inspect the brake pads at each regular maintenance
interval (page 25).
Front Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) through the front wheel
to determine the brake pad wear. If either brake
pad is worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in (1.0
mm), both brake pads must be replaced.
Rear Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) from the rear side of the
caliper to determine the brake pad wear. If either
brake pad is worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04
in (1.0 mm), both brake pads must be replaced.
Check that the front brake lever and rear brake
pedal assemblies are positioned properly (page 90)
and the securing bolts are tight.
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
Brake Pad Wear
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) front brake caliper
minimum thickness
indicator
0.04 in
(1.0 mm)
0.04 in
(1.0 mm)
replace
wear indicator
grooves
(1)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) rear brake caliper
minimum thickness
indicator
0.04 in
(1.0 mm)
replace
(2)
(3)
(1)
Other Inspections
Wheels
94 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Keeping the wheels true (round) and maintaining
correct spoke tension are critical to safe
motorcycle operation. During the first few rides,
spokes will loosen more rapidly due to the initial
seating of the parts. Excessively loose spokes may
result in instability at high speeds and the possible
loss of control. It’s also important that the rim
locks are secure to prevent tire slippage.
1. Inspect the wheel rims (1) and spokes (2) for
damage.
2. Tighten, any loose spokes and rim locks (3) to
the specified torque:
Spokes: 2.7 lbf·ft (3.7 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Rim Locks: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
3. Check wheel rim runout. If runout is
noticeable, see an official Honda Service
Manual for inspection instructions.
See an official Honda Service Manual for
inspection information:
1. Check the axle shaft for runout.
2. Check the condition of the wheel bearings.
Wheel Rims & Spokes
(1) wheel rim (3) rim lock
(2) spokes
(1)
(2)
(3)
Axles & Wheel Bearings
Tires & Tubes
Servicing Your Honda 95
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
To safely operate your CRF, the tires must be the
proper type (off-road) and size, in good condition
with adequate tread, and correctly inflated.
The following pages give detailed information on
how and when to check your air pressure, how to
inspect your tires for wear and damage, and our
recommendations on tire repair and replacement.
Properly inflated tires provide the best
combination of handling, tread life, and riding
comfort. Generally, underinflated tires wear
unevenly, adversely affect handling, and are more
likely to fail from being overheated.
Underinflated tires can also cause wheel damage
on hard terrain. Overinflated tires make your CRF
ride harshly, are more prone to damage from
surface hazards, and wear unevenly.
Make sure the valve stem caps are secure. If
necessary, install new caps.
Always check air pressure when your tires are
“cold.” If you check air pressure when your tires
are “warm” — even if your CRF has only been
ridden for a few miles — the readings will be
higher. If you let air out of warm tires to match the
recommended cold pressures, the tires will be
underinflated.
The correct “cold” tire pressures are:
If you decide to adjust tire pressures for a
particular riding condition, make changes a little at
a time.
Take time to inspect your tires and wheels before
you ride.
• Inspect carefully for bumps or bulges in the
side of the tire or the tread. Replace any tire
that has a bump or bulge.
• Look closely for cuts, slits, or cracks in the
tires. Replace a tire if you can see fabric or
cord.
• Check for rocks or other objects embedded in
the tire or tread. Remove any objects.
• Check the position of both valve stems. A
tilted valve stem indicates the tube is slipping
inside the tire or the tire is slipping on the rim.
If a tube is punctured or damaged, you should
replace it as soon as possible. A repaired tube may
not have the same reliability as a new one, and it
may fail while you are riding.
Use a replacement tube equivalent to the original.
WARNING
Using tires that are excessively worn or
improperly inflated can cause a crash in
which you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding tire inflation and
maintenance.
Air Pressure
Front 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Inspection
Tube Replacement
96 Servicing Your Honda
Tires & Tubes
The tires that came on your CRF were designed to
provide a good combination of handling, braking,
durability, and comfort across a broad range of
riding conditions.
• When replacing, use the original equipment
tires or equivalent tires of the same size,
construction, speed rating, and load range as
the original.
• Replace the tube any time you replace a tire.
The old tube will probably be stretched and, if
installed in a new tire, could fail.
Tire Replacement
WARNING
Installing improper tires on your
motorcycle can affect handling and
stability. This can cause a crash in which
you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Always use the size and type of tires
recommended in this owner’s manual.
Front
80/100-21 51M
DUNLOP MX51FA
Rear
100/90-19 57M
DUNLOP MX51
Type bias-ply, tube
Drive Chain
Servicing Your Honda 97
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
The service life of the chain depends on proper
lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance can
cause premature wear or damage to the drive chain
or sprockets.
When the motorcycle is ridden on unusually dusty
or muddy tracks, more frequent maintenance will
be necessary.
Before servicing your drive chain, turn the engine
OFF and check that your transmission is in neutral.
1. Turn the engine off, raise the rear wheel off the
ground by placing an optional workstand or
equivalent support under the engine and shift
the transmission into neutral.
2. Check the drive chain slack (1) in the upper
drive chain run midway between the drive
sprocket (2) and driven sprocket (3). Drive
chain slack should allow the following vertical
movement by hand:
1 – 1 3/8 in (25 – 35 mm)
3. Check drive chain slack at several points along
the chain. The slack should remain constant. If
it isn’t, some links may be kinked and binding.
Lubricating the chain will often eliminate
binding and kinking.
NOTICE
Excessive chain slack may allow the drive chain to
damage the engine cases.
4. Inspect the drive chain for:
• damaged rollers
• loose pins
• dry or rusted links
• kinked or binding links
• excessive wear
Replace the drive chain (page 99) if it has damaged
rollers, loose pins, or kinks that cannot be free.
Lubricate the drive chain (page 98) if it appears
dry or shows signs of rust. Lubricate any kinked or
binding links and work them free.
Adjust chain slack if needed (page 98).
1. Check the chain slider (1) for wear.
Replace it if below the service limit.
SERVICE LIMIT:
upper side: 0.2 in (5 mm)
lower side: 0.10 in (2.5 mm)
2. Check the chain guide slider (2) for wear.
Replace the guide slider if it is worn to the
bottom of the wear limit (3).
Inspection
(1) drive chain slack (3) driven sprocket
(2) drive sprocket
(2)
(3)
(1)
Drive Chain Sliders
(1) chain slider
(2) chain guide slider (3) wear limit
0.2 in
(5 mm)
0.10 in
(2.5 mm)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(3)
98 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
Check the upper drive chain roller (1) and lower
drive chain roller (2) for wear or damage.
Measure the diameter of the drive chain rollers and
replace them if below the service limit.
Service Limit:
Upper roller: 1.3 in (33 mm)
Lower roller: 1.4 in (35 mm)
Replace the roller if necessary as follows.
Install the upper drive chain roller (Green) with the
“ ” mark (3) facing toward the bracket and lower
drive chain roller (Black) with the large concave
facing outside.
Install the drive chain roller bolt and nut.
Clean the threads of the drive chain roller bolt and
apply locking agent to the threads.
Tighten the drive chain roller bolt and nut to the
specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
1. Loosen the rear axle nut (1).
2. Loosen the chain adjuster lock nuts (2) and
turn the adjusting bolts (3) counterclockwise to
decrease slack or clockwise to increase slack.
Align the index marks (4) of the axle plates (5)
with the same reference marks (6) on both
sides of the swingarm.
3. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified
torque:
94 lbf·ft (128 N·m, 13.1 kgf·m)
4. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
5. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise until
it touches the axle plates lightly. Then tighten
the chain adjuster lock nuts to the specified
torque while holding the adjusting bolts with a
wrench:
20 lbf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m)
Commercially prepared drive chain lubricants may
be purchased at most motorcycle shops and should
be used in preference to motor oil. Pro Honda HP
Chain Lube or an equivalent is recommended.
Saturate each chain joint so that the lubricant
penetrates the space between adjacent surfaces of
the link plates and rollers.
Drive Chain Rollers
(1) upper drive chain roller (Green)
(2) lower drive chain roller (Black)
(3) “ ” mark
(1)
(2)
(3)
Adjustment
(1) rear axle nut (4) index marks
(2) chain adjuster lock nuts (5) axle plates
(3) adjusting bolts (6) reference marks
(4)
(2)
(3)
(6)
(1)
(5)
Lubrication
Servicing Your Honda 99
Drive Chain
For maximum service life, the drive chain should
be cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted before each
outing.
1. Remove the master link retaining clip (1) with
pliers.
Do not bend or twist the clip.
2. Remove the master link (2). Remove the drive
chain.
3. Clean the drive chain in high flash-point
solvent and allow it to dry.
4. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or
damage. Replace the drive chain if it has
damaged rollers, loose fitting links, or
otherwise appears unserviceable.
Chain:
5. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear or damage.
We recommend replacing the sprocket
whenever a new chain is installed.
Both chain and sprockets must be in good
condition, or the new replacement chain or
sprocket (s) will wear rapidly.
Excessively worn sprocket teeth have a
hooked, worn appearance.
Replace any sprocket which is damaged or
excessively worn.
NOTICE
Use of a new chain with worn sprockets will cause
rapid chain wear.
6. Install the chain.
7. Measure a section of the drive chain to
determine whether the chain is worn beyond its
service limit. Put the transmission in gear, and
then turn the rear wheel forward until the lower
section of the chain is pulled taut. With the
chain held taut and any kinked joints
straightened, measure the distance between a
span of 17 pins, from pin center to pin center.
If the measurement exceeds the service limit,
replace the chain. After the chain is measured, shift
the transmission into neutral again before
proceeding with inspection and service.
8.
Lubricate the drive chain (page 98).
9. Pass the chain over the sprockets and join the
ends of the chain with the master link. For ease
of assembly, hold the chain ends against
adjacent driven sprocket teeth while inserting
the master link. Install the master link retaining
clip so that the closed end of the clip will face
the direction of forward wheel rotation.
10. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
• The master link is the most critical element of
drive chain security. Master links are reusable,
as long as they remain in excellent condition.
We recommend installing a new master link
retaining clip when the drive chain is
reassembled.
• You may find it easier to install a new chain by
connecting it to the old chain with a master link
and pulling the old chain to position the new
chain on the sprockets.
Removal, Cleaning & Replacement
(1) master link retaining clip
(2) master link
Size/link:
D.I.D 520DMA4/116RB
RK520TXZ/116RJ
(2)
(1)
Normal Sprocket Teeth
Damaged Sprocket
Teeth
Worn Sprocket
Teeth
REPLACEREPLACE
GOOD
Service limit: 10.20 in (259.0 mm)
More About Drive Chain
MEASURE A SPAN OF 17 PINS (16 PITCHES)
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
100 Servicing Your Honda
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Check the mounting bolts and exhaust pipe joint
nuts for tightness.
Check the exhaust pipe and mufflers for cracks or
deformation.
A damaged exhaust pipe and mufflers may reduce
engine performance.
1.
Remove the seat (page 33).
2. Remove the side covers (1) and air cleaner
housing covers (2) by removing the bolts (3).
3. Loosen the left muffler clamp bolt (4).
4. Remove the left muffler mounting bolt (5),
washer (6) and left muffler (7).
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Inspection Muffler Removal
(1) side covers (3) bolts
(2) air cleaner housing covers
(4) left muffler clamp bolt
(3) (1)
(2)
(4)
(5) left muffler mounting bolt
(6) washer
(7) left muffler
(5)
(6)
(7)
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 101
5. Loosen the right muffler clamp bolt (8).
6. Remove the right muffler mounting A bolt (9),
washer A (10), right muffler mounting B bolt
(11), washer B (12) and right muffler (13).
1. Remove the gasket (1).
2. Install the right muffler clamp (2) and a new
gasket onto the exhaust pipe (3).
3. Install the right muffler (4).
4. Install the right muffler clamp (2) by aligning
the tab (5) of the right muffler clamp with the
cutout (6) of the right muffler.
5. Install the washer B (7), right muffler
mounting B bolt (8), washer A (9), and right
muffler mounting A bolt (10).
6. Tighten the right muffler clamp bolt (11) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
(8) right muffler clamp bolt
(9) right muffler mounting A bolt
(10) washer A
(11) right muffler mounting B bolt
(12) washer B
(13) right muffler
(8)
(11)
(12)
(13)
(10)
(9)
Muffler Installation
(1) gasket (new) (3) exhaust pipe
(2) right muffler clamp
(1)
(2)
(3)
(2)
(4)
(6)
(5)
(2) right muffler clamp
(4) right muffler
(5) tab
(6) cut-out
(7) washer B
(8) right muffler mounting B bolt
(9) washer A
(10) right muffler mounting A bolt
(11) right muffler clamp bolt
(9)
(7)
(8)
(10)
(11)
102 Servicing Your Honda
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
7. Tighten the right muffler mounting B bolt (8)
and right muffler mounting A bolt (10) to the
specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
8. Remove the gasket (12).
9. Install a new gasket onto the right muffler (4).
10. Install the left muffler (13).
11. Install the left muffler mounting bolt (14) and
washer (15).
Tighten the left muffler mounting bolt to the
specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
12. Tighten the left muffler clamp bolt (16) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
13. Install the air cleaner housing covers (17) and
side covers (18), and then tighten the bolts (19)
to the specified torque.
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
14.
Install the seat (page 33).
(8) right muffler mounting B bolt
(10) right muffler mounting A bolt
(4) right muffler
(12) gasket (new)
(10)
(8)
(4)
(12)
(13) left muffler
(14) left muffler mounting bolt
(15) washer
(16) left muffler clamp bolt
(15) (14)
(13)
(16)
(17) air cleaner housing covers (19) bolts
(18) side covers
(17)
(19)
(18)
Servicing Your Honda 103
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
1. Remove the right and left mufflers (page 100).
2. Remove the exhaust pipe joint nuts (1),
exhaust pipe (2) and gasket (3).
1. Install a new exhaust pipe gasket (1) as shown.
2. Install the exhaust pipe (2) and exhaust pipe
joint nuts (3) but do not tighten the nuts yet.
3.
Install the right muffler (page 101) but do not
tighten the bolts yet.
4. Tighten the exhaust pipe joint nuts to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
5. Tighten the right muffler clamp bolt, right
muffler mounting A bolt and B bolt
(page 101).
6.
Install the left muffler (page 102).
Exhaust Pipe Removal
(1) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) gasket
(2)
(1)
(3)
Exhaust Pipe Installation
(1) exhaust pipe gasket (new)
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(1) (3)
(2)
Steering Damper
104 Servicing Your Honda
Steering Damper
Refer to Safety Precaution on page 23.
Loose, worn or damaged steering damper
components may adversely affect the handling and
stability of your CRF. If any steering damper
components appear worn or damaged, see your
dealer for further inspection. Your dealer is
qualified to determine whether or not replacement
parts are needed.
Do not attempt to disassemble the steering damper;
see your dealer.
The instructions found in this owner’s manual are
limited to adjustment and service of the steering
damper assembly only.
•
When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour to ensure that the steering
damper has worked in (page 19).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the
steering damper at the standard setting before
making any adjustments.
• Check the spherical bearings and dust seal for
dust, dirt, and foreign materials.
• Make all damping adjustments in one-click
increments. (Adjusting two or more clicks at a
time may cause you to pass over the best
adjustment.) Test ride after each adjustment.
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable
adjustment, return to the standard position and
begin again.
1. Unlock the number plate tab (1) from the
handlebar pad.
Remove the bolts (2) and number plate (3).
2. Check the steering damper (4) for deformation
or oil leaks.
Check the damper rod (5) for bending or
damage.
Replace the damper case or damper rod if there
is any abnormality.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual or
see your dealer for steering damper
disassembly.
Check the torque of the steering damper
mounting bolts (6):
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
Steering Damper Operation Inspection
(1) number plate tab (3) number plate
(2) bolts
(2)
(3)
(1)
(4) steering damper
(5) damper rod
(6) steering damper mounting bolts
(4)
(5)
(6)
Steering Damper
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 105
3. With your CRF on a box or an optional
workstand (front wheel elevated), check that
the steering moves smoothly from side-to-side.
4. Install the number plate (3) by aligning its
holes (7) with the tabs (8) on the steering stem.
Install and tighten the bolts (2).
Route the number plate tab (1) around the
handlebar pad (9) as shown.
1.
Remove the number plate (page 104).
2. Remove the steering damper mounting bolts
(1), collar (2), connector stay (3) and steering
damper (4).
1. Check the damper rod (1) operation.
The damper rod is fully extended and
compressed by hand. Release the damper rod,
then check that it extends to its maximum
length.
If the damper rod does not extend to its maximum
length, refer to an official Honda Service Manual
for disassembly and inspection instructions or see
your dealer.
(1) number plate tab (7) holes
(2) bolts (8) tabs
(3) number plate (9) handlebar pad
(2)
(8)
(7)
(3)
(1)
(9)
Removal
(1) steering damper mounting bolts
(2) collar
(3) connector stay
(4) steering damper
(1)
(3)
(2)
(4)
Inspection
(1) damper rod
(1)
106 Servicing Your Honda
Steering Damper
2. Check the condition of the spherical bearings
(2).
Move the spherical bearing with your finger.
The spherical bearing should move smoothly
and quietly.
Replace the spherical bearing if it does not move
smoothly and quietly.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual or see
your dealer.
1. Clean and apply a locking agent to the steering
damper mounting bolt threads.
2. Install the steering damper (1) with its “UP”
mark (2) facing up and forward. Turn the
damper rod and its stopper ring (3) facing
toward the front side.
3. Install the connector stay (4), collar (5) and
steering damper mounting bolts (6).
• Be sure to install the collar with its wide
flange side facing toward the steering head
pipe side.
• Align the connector stay tab (7) with the
steering head pipe lug (8).
4. Tighten the steering damper mounting bolts to
the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
5. With your CRF on a box or an optional
workstand (front wheel elevated), check that
the steering moves smoothly from side to side.
6.
Install the number plate (page 105).
(2) spherical bearings
(2)
Installation
(1) steering damper
(2) “UP” mark
(3) stopper ring
(4) connector stay
(5) collar
(6) steering damper mounting bolts
(7) connector stay tab
(8) steering head pipe lug
(5)
(4)
(3)
(6)
(2)
(7)
(8)
(1)
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Servicing Your Honda 107
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
1. With your CRF on a box or optional workstand
(front wheel elevated), turn the handlebar to
the right and left to check for roughness in the
steering head bearings.
2. Stand in front of your CRF, grab the fork (at
the axle), look at the steering head, and push
the fork in and out (toward the engine) to check
for play in the steering head bearings.
If any roughness or play is felt, but you do not see
any movement in the steering head, the fork
bushings may be worn.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual for
replacement or adjustment procedures, or see your
dealer.
1. Check the handlebar (1) for bends or cracks.
2. Check that the handlebar has not moved from
its original position where the end of the right
handlebar holders (2) is aligned with the paint
mark (3).
3. Check the torque of the handlebar upper holder
bolts (4):
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Tighten the front bolts first.
Periodically, disconnect the throttle and clutch
cables at their upper ends. Thoroughly lubricate
the cable pivot points with a commercially
available cable lubricant. If the clutch lever and
throttle operation is not smooth, replace the cable.
Be sure the throttle returns freely from fully open
to fully closed automatically, in all steering
positions.
Steering Head Bearing Inspection
Handlebar Inspection
(1) handlebar
(2) right handlebar holders
(3) paint mark
(4) handlebar upper holder bolts
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(4)
Control Cables
108 Servicing Your Honda
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before
every outing.
RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
ENGINE
Item
Torque
lbf·ft N·m kgf·m
1 Cylinder head cover bolts 7 10 1.0
2 Exhaust pipe joint nuts 15 21 2.1
3 Water pump cover bolts 7 10 1.0
4 Crankshaft hole cap 11 15 1.5
5 Transmission oil check
bolt 9 12 1.2
6 Clutch cover bolts 7 10 1.0
7 Coolant drain bolt 7 10 1.0
8 Engine oil drain bolt 12 16 1.6
9 Cylinder bolt 7 10 1.0
10 Oil filter cover bolts 9 12 1.2
11 Cylinder head A bolts 7 10 1.0
12 Drive sprocket bolt 23 31 3.2
13 Transmission oil drain bolt 12 16 1.6
14 Cylinder head B bolts 33 45 4.6
(1) cylinder head cover bolts
(2) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(3) water pump cover bolts
(4) crankshaft hole cap
(5) transmission oil check bolt
(6) clutch cover bolts
(7) coolant drain bolt
(8) engine oil drain bolt
(14)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(7)
(5)
(4)
(8)
(6)
(9) cylinder bolt
(10) oil filter cover bolts
(11) cylinder head A bolts
(12) drive sprocket bolt
(13) transmission oil drain bolt
(14) cylinder head B bolts
(1)
(9)
(14)
(12)
(11)
(13)
(10)
Appearance Care
Servicing Your Honda 109
Refer to Important Safety Precautions on page 23.
Frequent cleaning and polishing will keep your
CRF looking newer longer. Frequent cleaning also
identifies you as an owner who values his
motorcycle. A clean CRF is also easier to inspect
and service.
While you’re cleaning, be sure to look for damage,
wear, and gasoline or oil leaks.
• To clean your CRF you may use:
– water
– Hondabrite
– a mild, neutral detergent and water
– a mild spray and wipe cleaner/polisher
– a mild spray and rinse cleaner/degreaser and
water
• Avoid products that contain harsh detergents
or chemical solvents that could damage the
metal, paint, and plastic on your CRF or
discolor the seat and decals.
• If your CRF is still warm from recent
operation, give the engine and exhaust system
time to cool off.
• We recommend the use of a garden hose to
wash your CRF. High pressure washers (like
those at coin-operated car washes) can damage
certain parts of your CRF. The force of water
under extreme pressure can penetrate the dust
seals of the suspension pivot points and
steering head bearings-driving dirt inside and
needed lubrication out.
If you use a high pressure washer, avoid spraying
the following areas:
brake master cylinders
drive chain
electrical circuit
muffler outlet
steering head bearings
suspension pivot points
throttle body
under fuel tank
under seat
NOTICE
High pressure water (or air) can damage certain
parts of your CRF.
You may use Pro Honda Hondabrite, a multi-
surface cleaner/degreaser, to remove both dirt and
petroleum-based grime from paint, alloy, plastic,
and rubber surfaces. Wet any heavy deposits with
water first. Then spray on the Pro Honda
Hondabrite and rinse with a garden hose at full
pressure. Stubborn deposits may require a quick
wipe with a sponge.
Allow the engine, muffler, brakes, and other high-
temperature parts to cool before washing.
1. Rinse your CRF thoroughly using a garden
hose to remove loose dirt.
2. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild,
neutral detergent, such as dish washing liquid
or a product made especially for washing
motorcycles or automobiles.
3. Wash your CRF with a sponge or a soft towel.
As you wash, check for heavy grime. If
necessary, use a mild cleaner/degreaser to
remove the grime.
NOTICE
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it could
damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) is for removing stains on the non-
coated aluminum frame only.
4. After washing, rinse your CRF thoroughly
with plenty of clean water to remove any
residue.
Detergent residue can corrode alloy parts.
5. Dry your CRF with a chamois or a soft towel.
Leaving water on the surface to air dry can
cause dulling and water spots. As you dry,
inspect for chips and scratches.
6. Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
7. Start the engine and let it idle for several
minutes. The engine heat will help dry moist
areas.
8. As a precaution, ride at a slow speed and apply
the brakes several times. This will help dry the
brakes and restore normal braking
performance.
General Recommendations
(1) steering head bearings
(2) suspension pivot points
(1)
(2)
Washing Your Motorcycle with a Mild
Detergent
110 Servicing Your Honda
Appearance Care
Some condensation can form within the
transmission cavity as well. This is natural and just
one more reason you should change the engine and
transmission oil often.
There are some things you should do just after
washing your CRF to help prevent rust and
corrosion.
Once your CRF is clean and dry, you should
protect any bare steel from rusting by applying a
light coating of a rust-inhibitor. Lubricate the drive
chain and drive sprocket after removing and
thoroughly cleaning in solvent. Be sure the chain is
wiped clean and is dry before applying the chain
lube.
Follow the suggestions given in the pages of this
manual for lubricating items such as the brake and
clutch lever pivot points and footpeg pivot pins.
Aluminum corrodes when it comes in contact with
dust, mud and road salt.
To remove stains, use Scotch Brite Hand Pad
#7447 (maroon) or an equivalent.
Wet the pad and polish the surface using strokes
parallel to the length of the frame.
Clean the frame using a wet sponge and a mild
detergent, then rinse well with clean water. Dry the
frame with a soft clean cloth, using strokes parallel
to the length of the frame.
NOTICE
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it could
damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) is for removing stains on the non-
coated aluminum frame only.
The exhaust pipe and muffler are stainless steel but
may became stained by mud or dust.
To remove mud or dust, use a wet sponge and a
liquid kitchen abrasive, then rinse well with clean
water. Dry with chamois or a soft towel.
If necessary, remove heat stains by using a
commercially available fine texture compound.
Then rinse by the same manner as removing mud
or dust.
Condensation Control
After Cleaning Lubrication
Aluminum Frame Maintenance Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Maintenance
Adjustments for Competition
Adjustments for Competition 111
This section tells you how to fine tune your CRF
for maximum competition performance.
Initial suspension adjustments should be
performed after a minimum of 2 hours of easy
break-in time.
Optional front and rear suspension springs are
available in order to tailor your CRF specifically
for your weight, riding style and course conditions.
Follow the instructions given in the rear
suspension sag setting section of Rear Suspension
Adjustments to determine if your combined rider
and sprung machine weight (rider fully dressed for
competition and machine filled coolant, oil and
fuel levels ready for competition) requires an
optional stiffer or softer rear spring. The need for
either optional rear spring may need to be balanced
by installing the optional fork springs of a similar
rate.
Front Suspension Adjustments.......................112
Front Suspension Air Pressure...................112
Front Suspension Damping........................112
Fork Springs...............................................113
Front Suspension Disassembly..................114
Damper Oil Change...................................117
Fork Assembly...........................................120
Rear Suspension Adjustments........................127
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load.............127
Rear Suspension Damping.........................128
Rear Suspension Race Sag.........................129
Suspension Adjustments for
Track Conditions.............................................131
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines...............132
Tuning Tips....................................................135
Spark Plug Reading....................................135
Steering Damper Adjustment.........................136
Steering Damper Damping........................136
Steering Damper Adjustment Guidelines......137
Chassis Adjustments......................................138
Rear End.....................................................138
Fork Height/Angle.....................................138
Wheelbase..................................................138
Gearing............................................................139
Tire Selection for Track Conditions...............140
Personal Fit Adjustments...............................141
Control Positioning....................................141
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape...........141
Front Suspension Adjustments
112 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
The front suspension can be adjusted for the rider's
weight and riding conditions by using one or more
of the following methods:
• Oil volume — The effects of higher or lower
fork oil capacity are only felt during the final
3.9 in (100 mm) of fork travel.
• Compression damping — Turning the
compression damping adjuster (1) adjusts how
quickly the fork compresses.
• Rebound damping — Turning the rebound
damping adjuster (2) adjusts how quickly the
fork extends.
•
Fork springs — Optional springs are
available in softer and stiffer types than the
standard rate. (page 158)
The inverted fork on your CRF features sealed
damper cartridges with dual (separate air and oil)
chambers to prevent aeration. The design also
isolates the oil in each fork/damper, which may
contain air bubbles and/or metal particles, from the
sealed cartridge to provide more consistent
damping.
Air is an unstable gas which builds up pressure as it
is worked (such as in a fork). Air pressure acts as a
progressive spring and affects the entire range of
fork travel. This means the fork action on your CRF
will get stiffer during a race. For this reason, release
built-up air pressure in the fork legs between motos.
Be sure the fork is fully extended with the front tire
off the ground when you release the pressure.
The standard air pressure is 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm
2
).
You may relieve accumulated air pressure in the fork
legs by using the pressure release screws. The front
wheel should be off the ground before you release the
pressure. The air pressure should be adjusted
according to the altitude and outside temperature.
1. Place a workstand under the engine, so that the
front wheel is off the ground.
Do not adjust air pressure with the front wheel
on the ground as this will give false pressure
readings.
2. Remove the pressure release screw (1).
3. Check that the O-rings (2) is in good condition.
4. Install and tighten the pressure release screw to
the specified torque:
1.0 lbf·ft (1.3 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
Compression Damping Adjustment
This adjustment affects how quickly the fork
compresses. The fork compression damping
adjuster has 16 positions or more. Turning the
compression damping adjuster screw (1) one full
turn changes the adjuster 4 positions. To adjust the
adjuster to the standard position, proceed as
follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 6 clicks.
Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
Rebound Damping Adjustment
The fork rebound damping adjuster has 16
positions or more. Turning the rebound damping
adjuster screw (2) one full turn clockwise advances
the adjuster 4 positions. To adjust the rebound
damping to the standard setting, proceed as
follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 11 clicks.
Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
(1) compression damping adjuster
(2) rebound damping adjuster
(1)
(2)
Front Suspension Air Pressure
(1) pressure release screw (2) O-rings
(1)
(2)
Front Suspension Damping
Adjustments for Competition 113
Front Suspension Adjustments
Both compression and rebound damping can be
increased by turning the adjuster clockwise.
NOTICE
Always start with full hard when adjusting
damping.
Do not turn the adjuster screw more than the given
positions or the adjuster may be damaged.
Be sure that the compression and rebound
adjusters are firmly located in a detent, and not
between positions.
The fork springs in CRF’s are about right for riders
weighing between 170 lb (77 kg) and 200 lb (91
kg) (less riding gear). So if you’re a heavier rider,
you have to go up on the oil capacity or get a stiffer
spring. Do not use less oil than the minimum
specified for each spring or there will be a loss of
rebound damping control near full extension. If the
fork is too stiff on big bumps, turn the damping
adjuster counterclockwise 1-click and lower the oil
capacity in increments of 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
) in both
fork legs until the desired performance is obtained.
Do not, however, lower the oil capacity below the
minimum oil capacity.
When adjusting oil capacity, bear in mind that the
air in the fork will increase in pressure while
riding; therefore, the higher the oil capacity, the
higher the eventual pressure of any air in the fork.
(1) compression damping adjuster screw
(2) rebound damping adjuster screw
(1)
(2)
Fork Springs
Minimum oil capacity:
Standard spring: 10.1 US oz (300 cm
3
)
Softer spring: 10.1 US oz (298 cm
3
)
Stiffer spring: 9.9 US oz (294 cm
3
)
Force (N)
Oil capacity 13.0 US oz (384 cm
3
)
(MAX)
Oil capacity 12.1 US oz (357 cm
3
)
(STANDARD)
Oil capacity 10.1 US oz (300 cm
3
)
(MIN)
Stroke (mm)
114 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
• If your CRF is brand-new, put enough part-
throttle break-in time (about 1 hour) on it to
ensure that the suspension has worked in.
• For optimum performance, and extended fork
life, the fork should be completely disassembled
and cleaned after the first 3 hours of riding. See
an official Honda Service Manual or your dealer
for this service.
• When disassembling the fork, turn the
compression (1) and rebound (2) damping
adjusters counterclockwise to the softest position
to prevent damaging the adjustment needle (be
sure to record the number of turns from the
starting position).
1.
Remove the number plate (page 104).
2. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support with the front wheel off the
ground.
3. Remove the handlebar lower holder nuts,
washers, mounting rubbers (3) and handlebar
(4).
NOTICE
Keep the master cylinder upright to prevent air
from entering system.
4. Loosen the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (5).
5. Loosen the fork damper (6) using a lock nut
wrench (7), but do not remove them yet.
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
NOTICE
Do not use an adjustable wrench to loosen the fork
damper: it may damage them.
6. Remove the disc cover (8) by removing disc
cover socket bolts (9).
Front Suspension Disassembly
(1) compression damping adjuster
(2) rebound damping adjuster
(1)
(2)
(3) handlebar lower holder nuts, washers and mounting
rubbers
(4) handlebar
(3)
(4)
(5) fork bridge upper pinch bolts
(6) fork damper
(7) lock nut wrench
(8) disc cover
(9) disc cover socket bolts
(6)
(5)
(7)
(9)
(8)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 115
7. Remove the front axle nut (10) and loosen the
axle pinch bolts (11) on both forks.
Pull the front axle shaft (12) out of the wheel
hub and remove the front wheel with collars.
8. Remove the brake hose clamp bolts (13), stay
A (14) and stay B (15).
9. Remove the front brake caliper mounting bolts
(16) and brake caliper (17).
• Do not support the brake caliper by the brake
hose.
• Do not operate the brake lever after the front
wheel is removed. To do so will cause
difficulty in fitting the brake disc between
the brake pads.
10. Remove the fork protector socket bolts (18)
and fork protectors (19).
11. Loosen the fork bridge lower pinch bolts (20),
then pull the fork legs down and out.
12. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding
surface (21) of the slider and fork dust seal
(22).
13. Measure the length (23) between the axle
holder and outer tube and record it before
disassembling the fork.
(10) front axle nut (12) front axle shaft
(11) axle pinch bolts
(11)
(10)
(11)
(12)
(13) brake hose clamp bolts
(14) stay A
(15) stay B
(16) front brake caliper mounting bolts
(17) brake caliper
(18) fork protector socket bolts
(19) fork protectors
(16)
(17)
(13)
(14)
(15)
(18)
(19)
(19)
(18)
(20) fork bridge lower pinch bolts
(21) sliding surface (23) length
(22) fork dust seal
(20)
(21)
(23)
(22)
116 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
14. Hold the outer tube, then remove the fork
damper (6) from the outer tube using a lock nut
wrench (7). Gently slide the outer tube down
onto the lower end (axle holder) (24).
NOTICE
The outer tube (25) can drop on the slider (26) and
damage the fork dust seal (22).
To avoid damage, hold both the outer tube and
slider when removing the fork damper.
15. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube/slider
(27) and oil holes (28) of the fork damper.
16. Place the lower end (axle holder) (24) of the
slider in a vise with a piece of wood or soft
jaws to avoid damage.
NOTICE
Over-tightening the vise can damage the axle
holder.
17. Remove the fork center bolt (29).
18. Push the fork center bolt (29) out from the axle
holder (24) of the slider by pushing the fork
damper. While the fork center bolt is pushed
out, install the piston base (30) or a mechanic’s
stopper tool between the axle holder and fork
center bolt lock nut (31).
• Piston base 07958-2500001
19. Make the mechanic’s stopper tool out of a thin
piece of steel (0.08 in (2.0 mm) thick) as shown
if you do not have a special tool.
20. Hold the fork center bolt lock nut and remove
the fork center bolt from the fork damper.
NOTICE
Do not remove the lock nut from the fork damper
piston rod. If the lock nut is removed, the piston
rod will fall in the fork damper and you may not
reassemble the fork damper.
(6) fork damper (24) axle holder
(7) lock nut wrench
(22) fork dust seal (26) slider
(25) outer tube
(24)
(7)
(6)
(26)
NO GOOD
(25)
(22)
(27) outer tube/slider (28) oil holes
(24) axle holder (29) fork center bolt
(27)
(28)
(24)
(29)
2.2 in (55 mm)
1.0 in
(25 mm)
0.30 in
(7.5 mm)
1.5 in (39 mm)
0.6 in
(15 mm)
Adjustments for Competition 117
Front Suspension Adjustments
21. Remove the push rod (32) from the fork
damper.
22. Remove the piston base (30) or mechanic’s
stopper tool between the axle holder (24) and
fork center bolt lock nut (31) while pushing the
fork damper.
NOTICE
Be careful not to damage the lock nut and fork
center bolt hole.
23. Remove the fork damper assembly (33) from
the fork assembly (34).
Remove the fork from the vise.
Remove the fork spring (35), spring retainer
(36) and collar/washer (37) from the fork
assembly. Remove the O-ring (38).
NOTICE
Do not attempt to separate the fork assembly and
drop the axle holder out from the outer tube, which
can damage the guide bushings (39).
To avoid damage, hold both the outer tube and
slider.
1. Place the fork damper (1) in a vise with a piece
of wood or soft jaws to avoid damage.
NOTICE
Over-tighten the vise can damage the fork damper.
2. Loosen the fork cap assembly (2) while
holding the fork damper (1) using the lock nut
wrench (3).
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
(24) axle holder (30) piston base
(29) fork center bolt (31) fork center bolt lock nut
(24) axle holder (31) fork center bolt lock nut
(30) piston base (32) push rod
(30)
(31)
(24)
(29)
(31)
(32)
(30)
(24)
(39) guide bushing
(33) fork damper assembly (36) spring retainer
(34) fork assembly (37) collar/washer
(35) fork spring (38) O-ring
NO GOOD
(39)
(36)
(37)
(33)
(38)
(34)
(35)
Damper Oil Change
(1) fork damper (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork cap assembly
(2)
(1)
(3)
118 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
3. Remove the fork cap assembly (2) from the
fork damper threads and then pop it out by
pumping the fork damper piston rod (4)
slowly.
4. Remove the fork cap assembly (2).
Be careful not to damage the fork cap bushings.
Do not disassemble the fork cap assembly.
Replace the fork cap as an assembly if it is
damaged.
5. Empty the fork oil from the fork damper oil
chamber (5) by pumping the damper rod
several times.
6. Clean the fork cap and fork damper threads (6).
7. Extend the fork damper piston rod to maximum
length.
Pour the recommended fork oil into the fork
damper (1).
Recommended Oil:
HP Fork Oil, SS-19
Recommended Amount:
8.4 US oz (248 cm
3
)
8. Pump the fork damper piston rod (4) slowly
several times to bleed the air from the fork
damper (1).
9. Apply fork oil to the fork cap bushings (7),
new O-rings (8) and piston ring (9) on the fork
cap assembly (2).
(2) fork cap assembly (4) fork damper piston rod
(5) fork damper oil chamber
(4)
(2)
(5)
(6) fork cap and fork damper threads
(1) fork damper
(6)
(1)
(1) fork damper (4) fork damper piston rod
(2) fork cap assembly (8) O-rings (new)
(7) fork cap bushings (9) piston ring
(1)
(4)
(7)
(9)
(2)
(8)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 119
10. Extend the fork damper piston rod (4) to
maximum length, holding it, install the fork
cap assembly (2) to the fork damper (1) with
vertical position.
Be careful not to damage the fork cap piston ring.
If it is difficult to install the fork cap assembly, the
fork damper oil level might be higher than standard
oil level.
11. Place the fork damper (1) in a vise with a piece
of wood or soft jaws to avoid damage.
Tighten the fork cap assembly (2) while
holding the cut-out of the fork damper using
the lock nut wrench (3) to the specified torque:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
NOTICE
Over-tightening the vise can damage the fork
damper.
12. Completely screw in the fork center bolt lock
nut (10) to the fork damper piston rod (4).
13. Check the fork damper piston rod sliding
surface for damage.
14. Cover the fork damper piston rod end with
shop towel (11) to prevent fork damage.
Cover the oil holes with shop towel to prevent
blow out of fork oil.
Blow the extra oil off from the fork damper oil
chamber (5) by pumping the fork damper
piston rod to full stroke.
NOTICE
Be careful not to bend or damage the fork damper
piston rod when the piston rod is stroked.
(1) fork damper (4) fork damper piston rod
(2) fork cap assembly
(1)
(2)
(4)
(1) fork damper (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork cap assembly
(4) fork damper piston rod (10) fork center bolt lock nut
(1)
(3)
(2)
(10)
(4)
(5) fork damper oil chamber (11) shop towel
(11)
(5)
(11)
120 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
15. Drain the extra oil from the oil holes (12) of the
fork damper oil chamber (5).
By doing above procedure, about 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
)
of fork oil will be drained from the fork damper oil
chamber through the oil hole and cause 8.2 US oz
(243 cm
3
) of fork oil to be left in the fork damper oil
chamber.
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 146).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
1. Drain the fork oil from the fork assembly (1)
by placing it upside down.
(About 0.2 US oz (5.4 cm
3
) of fork oil will be
left in the outer tube/slider when it is left
inverted for about 20 minutes at 20 °C/68 °F)
(1) fork assembly
To properly dispose of drained fluids, refer to You
& the Environment on page 146.
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
2. Tighten the fork center bolt lock nut (2) fully
and measure the thread length (A) as shown.
Standard: 0.43 – 0.51 in (11 – 13 mm)
Wipe the oil completely off the fork damper.
(5) fork damper oil chamber (12) oil holes
(12)
(5)
Fork Assembly
(1)
Amount of fork oil left in the fork
(without damper and spring) unit: cm
3
minute
°C/°F
5 1020355585145
30/86 6.5 5.7 5.2 4.5 4.1 3.7 3.3
20/68 6.7 6.2 5.4 4.7 4.4 3.8 3.5
10/50 7.3 6.4 5.6 5 4.6 4.2 3.8
0/32 8.6 8.2 7.9 7.6 7.3 6.8 6
(2) fork center bolt lock nut (A) thread length
Inverted time
30°C/86°F
Amount of fork oil
(minutes)
20°C/68°F
10°C/50°F
0°C/32°F
(2)
(A)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 121
3. Install the collar (3) to the C-ring (4) of the fork
damper assembly (5) as shown.
Install the washer (6) and spring retainer (7) to
the fork damper assembly.
Make sure the black side of the washer is
seated on the collar side.
4. Blow out the oil completely off the fork spring
(8) using compressed air.
Install the fork spring to the fork damper
assembly (5).
Install the fork damper assembly to the fork
assembly (1).
5. Place the lower end (axle holder) of the slider
in a vise with a piece of wood or soft jaws to
avoid to damage.
NOTICE
Over-tightening the vise can damage the axle
holder.
6. Push out the fork damper piston rod from the
axle holder of the slider by pushing the fork
damper.
Apply pressure to the fork damper and insert
the piston base (9) or mechanic's stopper tool
between the axle holder and fork center bolt
lock nut (2).
Measure the thread length again.
Standard: 0.43 – 0.51 in (11 – 13 mm)
• Piston base 07958-2500001
7. Install the push rod (10) into the fork damper
piston rod until it stops.
8. Apply fork oil to new O-ring (11) and install it
to the fork center bolt (12).
Install the fork center bolt to the fork damper
piston rod.
Tighten the fork center bolt fully by hand.
(3) collar (6) washer
(4) C-ring (7) spring retainer
(5) fork damper assembly
(3)
(4)
(5)
(7)
(6)
(4)
(3)
(1) fork assembly (8) fork spring
(5) fork damper assembly
(5)
(8)
(1)
(2) fork center bolt lock nut (11) O-ring (new)
(9) piston base (12) fork center bolt
(10) push rod
(9)
(10)
(12)
(11)
(2)
122 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
9. Measure the clearance between the fork center
bolt lock nut (2) and fork center bolt (12).
Standard: 0.06 – 0.08 in (1.5 – 2.0 mm)
If the clearance is out of specification, check the
fork center bolt lock nut and fork center bolt
installation.
10. Tighten the fork center bolt lock nut (2) to the
fork center bolt (12) closely by hand. Tighten
the fork center bolt lock nut to the specified
torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
11. Remove the piston base or mechanic’s stopper
tool while pushing the fork damper.
Apply locking agent to the fork center bolt
threads.
Install the fork center bolt (12) to the axle
holder and tighten it to the specified torque:
51 lbf·ft (69 N·m, 7.0 kgf·m)
12. Measure the length between the axle holder
and outer tube.
Standard: 12.5 ± 0.1 in (316.5 ± 2 mm)
13. Compare the length (13) at assembly and at
disassembly. They should be the same length.
If the length at assembly is longer than at
disassembly, check the fork center bolt and fork
center bolt lock nut installation.
14. Remove the fork damper from the fork.
15. Pour the recommended fork oil (14) into the
fork assembly (1)
Recommended Oil: HP Fork Oil, SS-19
(2) fork center bolt lock nut (12) fork center bolt
(2) fork center bolt lock nut
(12) fork center bolt
(2)
(12)
0.06 – 0.08 in
(1.5 – 2.0 mm)
(2)
(12)
(12) fork center bolt
(13) length
(12)
(13)
(1) fork assembly (14) fork oil
(1)
(14)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 123
Fork Oil Capacity:
Standard 26.21 Ibf/in (4.59 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Softer 25.12 Ibf/in (4.40 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 27.41 Ibf/in (4.80 N/mm) Fork Spring
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
legs.
16. Install a new O-ring (15) on the fork damper
assembly (5). Apply the recommended fork oil
to the O-ring.
17. Pull up the fork assembly (1) slowly and install
the fork damper assembly into the outer tube.
18. Insert both fork legs into the fork clamps.
Tighten the fork bridge lower pinch bolts (16)
to the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
Standard oil
capacity
12.1 US oz
(357 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
13.0 US oz
(384 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.1 US oz
(300 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
capacity
12.0 US oz
(354 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.9 US oz
(381 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.1 US oz
(298 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
2 scribe marks
No mark
(factory products)
No mark
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(350 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.8 US oz
(377 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
9.9 US oz
(294 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
3 scribe marks
(1) fork assembly (15) O-ring (new)
(5) fork damper assembly
(16) fork bridge lower pinch bolts
(15)
(5)
(1)
(16)
124 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
19. Tighten the fork damper (17) to the specified
torque using the lock nut wrench (18):
Actual:
25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
Torque wrench scale reading:
23 lbf·ft (31 N·m, 3.2 kgf·m), using a 20 in
(500 mm) long deflecting beam type torque
wrench.
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
When using the lock nut wrench, use a 20 in (500
mm) long deflecting beam type torque wrench.
The lock nut wrench increases the torque wrench’s
leverage, so the torque wrench reading will be less
than the torque actually applied to the fork damper.
20. For ease of releasing air pressure after the forks
are installed, loosen the fork bridge lower
pinch bolts and position the outer tubes so that
the fork air pressure release screws are in front
of the compression damping adjusters. Align
the top of the outer tube (19) with the top
surface of the upper fork bridge (20).
21. Tighten the fork bride lower pinch bolts (16) to
the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
22. Tighten the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (21)
to the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Over-tightening the pinch bolts can deform the
outer tubes. Deformed outer tubes must be
replaced.
23. Clean the threads of the fork protector socket
bolts (22) and axle holder thoroughly.
Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
Install the fork protectors (23), fork protector
socket bolts.
Tighten the fork protector socket bolts to the
specified torque:
5.2 lbf·ft (7 N·m, 0.7 kgf·m)
24. Align the brake caliper (24) and hose (25) with
the left fork leg, making sure that the brake
hose is not twisted. An improperly routed
brake hose may rupture and cause a loss of
braking efficiency.
25. Assemble the stay B (26), brake hose (25) and
stay A (27). Install and tighten them to the left
fork protector using the brake hose clamp bolts
(28).
(17) fork damper (18) lock nut wrench
(18)
(17)
(19) outer tube (20) upper fork bridge
(16) fork bridge lower pinch bolts
(21) fork bridge upper pinch bolts
(19)
(20)
Align
(21)
(16)
(22) fork protector socket bolts
(23) fork protectors
(23)
(23)
(22)
(22)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 125
26. Clean the threads of the front brake caliper
mounting bolts (29) and brake caliper
thoroughly.
Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
Install the brake caliper (24) on the slider and
tighten the front brake caliper mounting bolts
to the specified torque:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
27. Clean the surfaces where the axle and axle
clamps contact each other.
Apply grease to each dust seal lips of the front
wheel.
Install the left side collar (30) and right side
collar (31) into the wheel hub.
28. Install the front wheel between the fork legs
while inserting the disc between the pads,
being careful not to damage the pads.
29. Insert the front axle shaft through the forks and
wheel hub from the right side. Make sure that
the front axle shaft is seated firmly onto the left
fork leg clamp inner surface. Tighten the front
axle nut (32) to the specified torque:
65 lbf·ft (88 N·m, 9.0 kgf·m)
Tighten the left axle pinch bolts (33) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
30. Install the handlebar (34), mounting rubbers,
washers and handlebar lower holder nuts (35)
and tighten the handlebar holder nuts to the
specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
31.
Install the number plate (page 105).
(24) brake caliper
(25) brake hose
(26) stay B
(27) stay A
(28) brake hose clamp bolts
(29) front brake caliper mounting bolts
(28)
(27)
(26)
(25)
(29)
(24)
(30) left side collar (31) right side collar
(32) front axle nut
(33) left axle pinch bolts
(30)
(31)
(33)
(32)
(34) handlebar
(35) mounting rubbers, washers and handlebar lower
holder nuts
(34)
(35)
126 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
32. With the front brake applied, pump the fork up
and down several times to seat the axle and
check front brake operation.
33. While keeping the forks parallel, alternately
tighten the right axle pinch bolts (36) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
NOTICE
To avoid damage when torquing the axle pinch
bolts, be sure the axle is seated firmly onto the left
fork leg clamp inner surface.
34. Install the disc cover (37) and tighten the disc
cover socket bolts (38) to the specified torque:
10 lbf·ft (13 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)
35. Turn the rebound damping (39) and
compression damping (40) adjuster screws
back to their original settings.
(36) right axle pinch bolts
(36)
(37) disc cover (38) disc cover socket bolts
(39) rebound damping adjuster
(40) compression damping adjuster
(38)
(37)
(39)
(40)
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 127
The rear suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s
weight and riding conditions by changing the
spring pre-load and the rebound and compression
damping.
The rear suspension assembly includes a damper
unit that contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do
not attempt to disassemble, service, or dispose of
the damper; see your dealer. The instructions
found in this owner’s manual are limited to
adjustments of the shock assembly only.
Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in an
explosion, causing serious injury.
Service or disposal should only be done by your
dealer or a qualified mechanic, equipped with the
proper tools, safety equipment and an official
Honda Service Manual.
If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle break-
in time (about 1 hour) on it to ensure that the
suspension has worked in.
Pre-load should be adjusted when the engine is
cold because it is necessary to remove the muffler.
An optional pin spanner is available for turning the
shock spring lock nut and adjusting nut to adjust
spring pre-load.
1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support with the rear wheel off the
ground.
2.
Remove the subframe (page 37).
3.
Remove the air cleaner case along with the air
cleaner connecting tube (page 76).
4. Check that the spring pre-load is adjusted to
the standard length. Adjust as necessary by
loosening the shock spring lock nut (1) and
turning the adjusting nut (2).
Each complete turn of the adjusting nut
changes the spring length by 0.06 in (1.5 mm).
5. After adjustment, hold the adjusting nut and
tighten the shock spring lock nut to the
specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
Refer to the following pages for the installation
procedure of the removed parts:
•
air cleaner case and air cleaner connecting
tube: page 84 (Cylinder Head Installation)
•
subframe: page 37
To increase spring pre-load
Loosen the shock spring lock nut with the optional
pin spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to
shorten the spring length (4). Do not shorten to less
than:
Standard (Medium) spring (297 lbf/in (52 N/mm)):
9.3 in (236 mm)
Optional Soft spring (286 lbf/in (50 N/mm)):
9.4 in (238 mm)
Optional Stiff spring (308 lbf/in (54 N/mm)):
9.4 in (240 mm)
To decrease spring pre-load
Loosen the shock spring lock nut with the optional
pin spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to
increase the spring length (4). Do not increase to
more than:
9.8 in (250 mm)
Each turn of the adjusting nut changes spring
length and spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring
length/spring pre-load:
Standard: 0.06 in (1.5 mm)/18 lbf (78 N)
Pin spanners should be used for turning the shock
spring lock nut and adjusting nut. See page 158 for
optional pin spanners.
Spring pre-load length (Standard spring)
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load
(1) shock spring lock nut (3) pin spanners
(2) adjusting nut (4) spring length
(1)
(4)
(2)
(3)
Standard: 9.8 in (250 mm)
Max. : 9.8 in (250 mm)
Min. : 9.3 in (236 mm)
128 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Compression Damping
Compression damping may be adjusted in two
stages with separate adjusters.
The high speed damping adjuster (1) is effective
when damping adjustment is desired for high
speed operation. The low speed damping adjuster
(2) should be used when damping adjustment is
desired at relatively low speeds.
• Both the high and low speed compression
damping can be increased by turning the
appropriate adjuster clockwise.
• Adjust the high speed compression adjuster in
1/12 turn increments.
Be sure the low speed compression adjuster is
firmly located in a detent, and not between
positions.
High Speed Damping:
The high speed damping can be adjusted by
turning the hexagonal portion of the compression
adjuster.
The high speed damping adjuster has 3 1/2 turn or
more.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard
setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 2 1/2 – 3
turns and the punch marks are aligned.
Low Speed Damping:
The low speed damping can be adjusted by turning
the center screw of the compression adjuster.
The low speed compression adjuster has 13
positions or more.
Turning the adjuster one full turn clockwise
advances the adjuster 4 positions.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard
setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 8 clicks
and the punch marks are aligned.
Rebound Damping
The rebound damping adjuster (3) is located at the
lower end of the rear shock absorber.
It has 17 positions or more. Turning the adjuster
one full turn advances the adjuster 6 positions.
• Rebound damping can be increased by turning
the adjuster clockwise.
• Be sure that the rebound adjuster is firmly
located in a detent, and not between positions.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard
position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 11 clicks
with the punch marks on the adjuster and the
rear shock absorber aligned.
Rear Suspension Damping
(1) high speed damping adjuster
(2) low speed damping adjuster
(1)
(2)
(3) rebound damping adjuster
(3)
Adjustments for Competition 129
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very
important for competition use.
Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel travel
used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride, with you
on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, the race sag
dimension should be about one-third of the
maximum travel.
On your CRF, ride height is changed by adjusting
the rear suspension spring pre-load.
Spring Pre-load & Race Sag Adjustment
The following adjustment procedure establishes
the correct starting point for any suspension tuning
— the proper rear suspension spring preload
adjustment for your specific needs.
Your CRF should be at normal racing weight,
including fuel, oil and coolant. You should be
wearing all your normal protective apparel. You
will need two helpers.
To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary
to measure between two fixed points — from the
center of the seat mounting bolt to the center of the
chain adjuster lock nut as illustrated here — for
two different situations:
unloaded: motorcycle on an optional workstand
with rear suspension fully extended, no rider.
loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with
rider.
1. Support your CRF on an optional workstand
with the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Measure the unloaded dimension.
3. Measure the loaded with rider dimension.
Remove the workstand. With two helpers
available, sit as far forward as possible on your
CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel.
Ask one helper to steady your CRF perfectly
upright so you can put both feet on the pegs.
Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of
times to help the suspension overcome any
situation and settle to a good reference point.
Ask the other helper to measure the loaded
with rider dimension.
Example:
4. Calculate the race sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the loaded with rider
dimension (step 3) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Standard Race Sag: 4.1 in (105 mm)
Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain
the desired handling results.
Decreasing the race sag dimension (example:
3.7 in, 95 mm) improves turning ability for
tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced
straight line stability.
Increasing the race sag dimension (example:
4.5 in, 115 mm) may improve stability on
faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce
turning performance slightly and may upset the
balance between the front and rear suspension,
producing a harsher ride. This will happen if
the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel
toward the more progressive end of its range.
Rear Suspension Race Sag
UNLOADED MEASUREMENT
(without rider)
EXAMPLE: 24.6 in (625 mm)
SEAT MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
Unloaded = 24.6 in (625 mm)
– Loaded = 20.7 in (525 mm)
Race Sag = 3.9 in (100 mm)
LOADED MEASUREMENT
(with rider)
EXAMPLE: 20.7 in (525 mm)
SEAT MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
130 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Spring Rates
If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider
and cannot set the proper ride height without
altering the correct spring pre-load, consider an
aftermarket rear shock spring.
A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you
to add excessive spring pre-load to get the right
race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the
motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear wheel
to unload too much in the air and top out as travel
rebounds. The rear end may top out from light
braking, or kick sideways over lips and square-
edged terrain. It may even top-out when you
dismount your CRF.
Because of the great absorption quality of the
shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to
notice when your CRF’s suspension is bottoming.
Some riders may think the damping or perhaps the
leverage ratio is too harsh. In reality, the problem
is most likely insufficient spring pre-load or a
spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents
utilizing the full travel.
Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension
system may bottom slightly every few minutes at
full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this
occasional bottoming may cost more in overall
suspension performance than it is worth.
A spring that is too stiff for your weight will not
allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration
and will pass more bumps on to you.
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions
Adjustments for Competition 131
Soft Surface
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider
increasing compression damping front and rear.
Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to
minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps are
usually larger, there’s more distance between
them, giving the shock more time to recover.
You may want a little bit stiffer front suspension
for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and
improve straight-line stability.
In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs front
and rear may help, especially if you are heavier
than the average rider. Your CRF may be under-
sprung because of the added weight of the clinging
mud. This additional weight may compress the
suspension too much and affect traction.
Hard Surface
For a fast, hard track with no large jumps, you can
probably run the same spring as normal, but run
softer damping both ways-compression and
rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the
wheel will follow the rough ground and small
bumps much better, and you will hook up better.
With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns
very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground quickly
enough after each bump. The result is a loss of
traction and slower lap times.
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
132 Adjustments for Competition
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF, using the methods described on pages 112 – 130. Remember to make all adjustments in
one-click or 1/12 turn increments. Test ride after each adjustment.
Front Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Sand track Adjust to a stiffer position.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer position.
– Install the optional stiff spring. (Adjust compression damping to a softer position and rebound damping to a stiffer position at this
time.)
Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Install the optional stiff spring
.
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Damping
Symptom Action
Soft
suspension
Initial travel too soft:
• Steering is too quick.
• Front end darts while cornering or riding in a straight line.
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Test stiffer rebound damping in one-click increments.
Middle travel too soft:
• Front end dives when cornering.
If suspension isn’t stiff in initial travel:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial travel becomes stiff because of the above adjustment:
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring.
Final travel too soft:
• Bottoms on landings.
• Bottoms on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial and middle travel are stiff:
– Install the optional stiff spring.
If initial travel is stiff after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If final travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Increase the fork oil capacity in increments of 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Entire travel too soft:
• Front end shakes.
• Fork bottoms over any type of terrain.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Increase rebound damping in one-click increments.
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Adjustments for Competition 133
Symptom Action
Stiff
suspension
Initial travel too stiff:
• Stiff on small bumps while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
• Stiff on small cornering bumps.
• Front end wanders while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Check for dirt in the dust seals. Check the fork oil for any contamination.
If the front end dives while cornering after the above adjustment:
Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments. If that doesn’t solve the
problem, install the optional stiff spring.
If the stiff spring makes the suspension too stiff over the full range of travel:
test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the
desired compression damping for initial travel is obtained.
Middle travel too stiff:
• Stiff on bumps when cornering.
• Front end wanders when cornering.
• Stiff suspension on bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• While braking, front end dives during initial travel, then feels stiff.
If initial travel isn’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If initial and middle travel is stiff:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
Final travel too stiff:
• Doesn’t bottom on landings, but feels stiff.
• Stiff on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• Stiff on large bumps when cornering.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If final travel is still stiff after the above adjustment, or
If initial and middle travel becomes stiff:
– Install the optional soft spring.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If the entire travel feels stiff after the above adjustment:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the
desired initial travel compression damping is obtained.
– Lower the oil capacity by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Entire travel too stiff:
• Stiff suspension on any type of terrain.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Lower the oil capacity by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
134 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard settings. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Sand track Lower the rear end (to improve front wheel stability) by increasing Race Sag (reduce spring pre-load).
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster and, especially, rebound damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Increase standard Race Sag (+0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).
Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Adjust the compression and rebound damping adjusters to stiffer settings.
– Install an optional stiff spring.
– Reduce standard Race Sag (–0.2 to –0.4 in/–5 to –10 mm).
Symptoms and Adjustment
• Always begin with the standard settings.
• Turn the low speed compression and rebound adjusters in one-click increments, and the high speed compression adjuster in 1/12 turn increments at a time. Adjusting two or
more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to pass over the best adjustment. Test ride after each adjustment.
• If, after setting, the suspension feels unusual, find the corresponding symptom in the table and test stiffer or softer compression and/or rebound damping adjustments until the
correct settings are obtained as described.
Symptom Action
Stiff suspension Suspension feels stiff on small bumps 1. Test softer low speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
Suspension feels stiff on large bumps 1. Test softer high speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
Entire travel too stiff 1. Test softer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment simultaneously.
2. If it still feels stiff, replace the spring with a softer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to softer
settings.
Soft suspension Entire travel too soft 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
2. If it still feels soft, replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to stiffer
setting.
Rear end sways 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment to stiffer settings
simultaneously.
Suspension
bottoms
Suspension bottoms at landing after
jumping
1. Test stiffer high speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a stiffer
spring (optional) if necessary.
Suspension bottoms after landing 1. Test stiffer low speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a stiffer
spring (optional) if necessary.
Suspension bottoms after end of
continuous bumps
1. Test softer rebound dumping adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and softer rebound damping
adjustment, and replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.
Tuning Tips
Adjustments for Competition 135
An optional PGM-FI setting tool can change the
ignition timing and amount of the fuel injection
(page 159).
Be sure to observe the PGM-FI setting by checking
the spark plug.
Refer to Spark Plug on page 66.
The following procedure is recommended.
You may not get an accurate reading if you simply
turn off the engine and pull the plug for inspection.
Use a new spark plug. Inspect the plug before
installing it.
NOTICE
Using spark plugs with an improper heat range or
incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Ride for 10 – 15 minutes before taking a plug
reading. A new plug will not color immediately.
Before removing the spark plug, clean the spark
plug area thoroughly to prevent dirt from entering
the cylinder.
To obtain an accurate reading of a new spark plug:
1. Accelerate at full throttle on a straight.
2. Depress and hold the engine stop button and
pull the clutch lever in.
3. Coast to a stop.
4. Remove the spark plug.
5. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator (1) around the
center electrode (2) should appear clean and
colorless with a gray ring around the center
electrode where it exits the porcelain.
Light gray or white color streaks the porcelain
insulator and center electrode indicate lean air-
fuel mixture. Wet or black sooty streaks on the
porcelain indicate rich air-fuel mixture.
NOTICE
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may be
damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may be
damaged.
Spark Plug Coloring Guidelines
Remember that in addition to improper air-fuel
mixture:
• A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in
the inlet tract or exhaust system, the passage of
too much air because of the use of the wrong
air cleaner, use of a less-restrictive aftermarket
exhaust system.
• A rich condition can be caused by a plugged or
dirty air cleaner, use of a more-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system, or excessive oil on
the air cleaner.
Excessive smoking will occur.
Spark Plug Reading
(1) porcelain insulator (2) center electrode
Condition Spark Plug Appearance Mixture
Normal Dark brown to light tan
color with dry electrode
correct
Overheating
(Lean)
Light gray or white color lean
Wet (Rich) Wet or sooty rich
(1)
(2)
Steering Damper Adjustment
136 Adjustments for Competition
Steering Damper Adjustment
The steering damper can be adjusted for riding
conditions by using following method:
• Damping – Turning the steering damper
adjuster adjusts how quickly the steering
damper compresses or extends.
The steering damper adjuster (1) has 13 positions
or more. Turning the adjuster one full turn
clockwise advances the adjuster six positions. To
adjust the adjuster to the standard setting, proceed
as follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 9 – 12
clicks.
Damping can be increased by turning the adjuster
clockwise.
NOTICE
Always start with full hard when adjusting
damping.
Do not turn the adjuster more than the given
positions or the adjuster may be damaged.
Be sure that the steering damper adjuster is firmly
located in a detent, and not between positions.
Steering Damper Damping
(1) steering damper adjuster
(1)
Steering Damper Adjustment Guidelines
Adjustments for Competition 137
Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF.
Symptoms and Adjustment
• Always begin with the standard settings.
• Turn the steering damper adjuster in one-click increments at a time. Adjusting two or more clicks at a time may cause you to p
ass over the best adjustment.
Test ride after each adjustment.
Symptom Action
Steering is wobbling on large bumps Adjust the steering damper adjuster to a stiffer setting.
Steering is wobbling on a sand track Adjust the steering damper adjuster to a stiffer setting.
Steering is heavy when cornering Adjust the steering damper adjuster to a softer setting.
Chassis Adjustments
138 Adjustments for Competition
Chassis Adjustments
The following suggestions may improve a specific
concern. Subtle changes in overall handling may
also be noted.
If you have a problem with rear wheel traction,
raise the rear end of your CRF by increasing the
rear suspension spring pre-load. Instead of running
4.1 in (105 mm) of sag, you can run 3.7 in (95 mm)
so the rear of the motorcycle will sit a little higher.
This should produce more traction because of the
change to the swingarm and location of your
CRF’s center of gravity.
If you have a problem with the steering head
shaking when you use the front brake hard or if
your CRF wants to turn too quickly, lower the rear
of the motorcycle by reducing the rear suspension
spring pre-load. This will increase fork rake and
trail and should improve stability in a straight line.
The effective suspension travel will be transferred
toward the firmer end of wheel travel.
Keep the race sag adjustment (page 129) in the 3.7
– 4.5 in (95 – 115 mm) range.
The position of the fork in the clamp is not
adjustable. Align the top of the outer tube (not the
top of the fork damper) with the top of the upper
fork bridge.
Standard Position
The top of the outer tube (1) (not the top of the fork
cap) is aligned with the top of the upper fork bridge
(2).
Adjusting your CRF’s wheelbase can offer subtle
changes in overall handling. You may adjust
wheelbase by adding or removing links on the
drive chain. If you change the wheelbase, be sure
to recheck race sag and adjust, if necessary.
In the past, a general rule was lengthen the
wheelbase to add straight line stability, shorten the
wheelbase to improve turning. However, we
suggest you do not lengthen the wheelbase of your
CRF unless you are racing on a track with more
fast sections than normal.
As a general recommendation, keep the wheelbase
as short as possible. This positions the wheels
closer together, improves turning response,
increases weighting (traction) on the rear wheel,
and lightens weighting on the front wheel.
With your CRF, you will probably find that the
standard setting or a shorter wheelbase will offer
more overall benefits.
Rear End
Fork Height/Angle
(1) top of outer tube
(2) upper fork bridge
(1)
(2)
Wheelbase
Gearing
Adjustments for Competition 139
You can “adjust” the power delivery of the
standard engine to suit track conditions by
changing gearing. This allows you to utilize a
different portion of the engine’s power range at a
given throttle setting. New gearing may provide
the change you are looking for without the need to
consider further modifications.
The portion of your engine’s power range you use
can be adjusted by changing the final drive ratio
with different sized driven sprockets. Gearing
changes allow you to more closely match the type
of terrain and the available traction.
Normally, a change of one tooth on the driven
sprocket will be sufficient.
There is a choice of both higher and lower final
drive ratios with two optional driven sprockets.
Like the optional springs, these sprockets are listed
in the Optional Parts List section of this manual
(page 158).
Unless you have the required mechanical know-
how, tools, and an official Honda Service Manual,
sprocket changing should be done by your dealer.
Higher Gearing (less driven sprocket teeth)
• increases top speed in each gear (provided the
engine will pull the higher gearing)
• reduces frequency of shifting (wider gear
ratios)
• reduces engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may allow better rear
wheel traction on slippery or loose terrain)
However:
• the engine may not pull the higher gearing
• the spacing between gears may be too wide
• engine rpm may be too low
Lower Gearing (more driven sprocket teeth)
• decreases top speed in each gear
• increases frequency of shifting (narrower gear
ratios)
• increases engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may provide more
power-to-the-ground on good traction
surfaces)
However:
• spacing between gears may be too narrow
• engine rpm may be too high
Some tracks may be watered heavily prior to the
first race, then lightly or not at all during the day.
This results in a track surface that is slippery
during the first few races, then changes from good
to great and back to good and possibly ends the day
with a slick rock-hard consistency.
Ideally, your gearing should be adjusted to suit all
these conditions.
• Wet and slippery or sandy conditions: use a
higher gear (less teeth) to keep engine rpm
down, and avoid unwanted wheelspin. The
engine may bog in certain corners so you’ll
need to slip the clutch to compensate;
downshifting may be too drastic a change in
speed.
• Average conditions: use the standard sprocket.
• Hard (but not slippery) track conditions: use
lower gearing (more teeth) to keep the engine
rpm high where the engine produces the most
power. This may require an extra upshift on
certain sections or perhaps you can just rev it
out a bit longer.
For tight tracks, consider lower gearing to avoid
having to slip the clutch frequently. Repeated
fanning or pulling of the clutch lever in a turn to
raise engine rpm may eventually damage the
clutch system.
A gearing change may help for riding in sand,
where you want to keep the front end light so it can
float from the peak of one sand whoop to the next.
Generally, with higher gearing, it is easier to
maintain that perfect attitude (maximum rear
wheel traction and a light front end) because you
remain in the powerband longer in each gear.
The higher gearing allows you to steer more
efficiently with throttle control and body English.
If you are riding a track with sections where you
choose to over-rev the engine temporarily rather
than shifting up, higher gearing might help.
Sometimes you have to sacrifice performance on
one section of the track to gain a better overall
time. Your goal is the fastest overall lap time, even
if the cost is some sections where the gearing feels
wrong.
If you decide to try a gearing change, have
someone check your times with a stopwatch
(before and after the change) to get an accurate
appraisal of the change. “Seat-of-the-pants”
feelings can’t be trusted. Eliminating wheelspin
with a gearing change can make you feel like
you’re going slower when, in reality, you’ve
decreased your time by increasing your speed with
better traction.
These gearing recommendations should be
evaluated by considering your ability, your riding
style, and the track.
Tire Selection for Track Conditions
140 Adjustments for Competition
Tire Selection for Track Conditions
Choosing the correct tire tread pattern and rubber
compound can affect your placing in competition.
The tires on your CRF offer a “happy medium” for
the variety of soil conditions the majority of riders
are likely to encounter.
Experienced competitors often switch to tires
developed for specific terrain conditions. If you do
switch, stay with the factory recommended sizes.
Other tires may affect handling or acceleration.
Be aware that tire sizes (width and aspect ratio) do
vary from manufacturer to manufacturer or even
among tires made by the same manufacturer.
Variations in tires, especially the sidewall profile,
can change the attitude of your CRF and its
handling. Tire variations that raise or lower the
rear of your CRF have a more significant effect on
handling than variations in front tires which,
generally, don’t vary as much.
Often, you can see or feel the change in tire size.
Another way to check is to measure the rolling
circumference of the old and new tires. A higher
profile tire will have a larger rolling
circumference.
If you do switch to tires designed for special terrain
use, remember they will be less acceptable in other
circumstances. For example, an aggressive mud
tire will give excellent grip on wet, loamy terrain,
but less impressive grip on a hard surface.
If you choose a tire with a sticky compound for
added traction, remember that it may transfer
additional loads to the transmission because it
grips so well, especially when riding in situations
that normally place unusual demands on the
transmission.
Complete consumer information can be obtained
from the various tire manufacturer representatives
and dealers.
Some general recommendations for specific
terrain follow:
Hard, Slick Soil
Use tires with many relatively short knobs that are
close together in order to obtain the largest
possible contact patch on the surface. The rubber
compound needs to be softer for hard ground in
order to hook up, but not so soft that the knobs roll
over easily and affect holding a straight line.
These tires tend to wear more quickly than
standard tires because of the combination of soft
rubber and hard terrain.
Muddy Soil
Use a more open tread pattern to avoid clogging.
For these conditions, the relatively long knobs will
probably be made from a harder rubber compound
to reduce any tendency to bend back under
acceleration or wear quickly.
Loose, Sandy Soil
Use a tire that is similar in construction to those
needed for tacky soil and mud, but with a few more
knobs.
Personal Fit Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 141
The following suggestions may make your ride
both more comfortable and more responsive to
your control input.
• Position the control levers so that you can use
them comfortably when seated and standing.
• Adjust the mounting bolt torque of the clutch
and front brake lever assemblies so that they
can rotate on the handlebar in a fall. If an
assembly does not rotate, it may bend or break
a control lever. Make sure that the bolts are
torqued securely enough to prevent slippage
during normal operation.
Apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent to
the threads of these bolts prior to adjustment to
help ensure the correct torque is retained.
Tighten the top bolts first.
As an alternative, consider wrapping the handlebar
area under the control assemblies with Teflon tape.
Then tighten the assemblies to their normal torque.
Upon impact, the fully-tightened assemblies
should rotate on the Teflon tape.
• Position the shift lever and rear brake pedal so
they are close to your boot for rapid access, but
not so close that either is depressed when
sitting or standing comfortably on your CRF.
•
Position the handlebar so that both gripping the
bar and operating the controls are comfortable
while both seated and standing, while riding
straight ahead and turning.
Tighten the forward handlebar upper holder
bolts first.
• The handlebar position may be moved
rearward either 0.1 in (3 mm) (using optional
handlebar lower holders) or 0.2 in (6 mm) (by
rotating the standard holders 180 degrees).
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual for
installation instructions. Be sure to check
control cable and wiring harness routing after
the adjustment.
•
Handlebar width can be trimmed with a
hacksaw to better suit your particular shoulder
width and riding preference. Think this
through carefully and cut off just a small
amount at a time from both sides equally. It is
obviously much easier to make the handlebar
narrower than it is to add material.
• Chamfer the edges to remove burrs and other
irregularities or roughness after sawing the
handlebar.
• An alternate handlebar shape, through varying
rise or rearward sweep dimensions, will
provide further adjustment to riding position
and may better suit your particular body size or
riding style. Each of the ergonomic dimensions
of the machine were determined to suit the
greatest possible number of riders based on an
average size rider.
Control Positioning
(1) control lever mounting bolts
(1)
(1)
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape
142 Adjustments for Competition
Tips
Tips 143
Here’s helpful advice on how to transport and store
your CRF, as well as three troubleshooting flow
charts.
Transporting Your Motorcycle......................
144
Storing Your Honda......................................145
Preparation for Storage..............................145
Removal from Storage..............................145
You & the Environment................................146
Troubleshooting.............................................147
Transporting Your Motorcycle
144 Tips
Transporting Your Motorcycle
If you use a truck or motorcycle trailer to transport
your CRF, we recommend that you follow these
guidelines:
• Use a loading ramp.
•
Relieve the fuel pressure (page 40) and drain
the fuel from the fuel tank into an approved
gasoline container.
• Secure the motorcycle in an upright position,
using motorcycle tie-down straps. Avoid using
rope, which can loosen and allow the
motorcycle to fall over.
To secure your CRF, brace the front wheel against
the front of the truck bed or trailer rail.
Attach the lower ends of two straps to the tie-down
hooks on truck bed or trailer rail. Attach the upper
ends of the straps to the handlebar (one on the right
side, the other on the left), close to the fork.
Check that the tie-down straps do not contact any
control cables or electrical wiring.
Tighten both straps until the front suspension is
compressed about half-way. Too much pressure is
unnecessary and could damage the fork seals.
Use another tie-down strap to keep the rear of the
motorcycle from moving.
We recommend that you do not transport your
CRF on its side. This can damage the motorcycle,
and leaking gasoline could be a hazard.
Storing Your Honda
Tips 145
If you won’t be riding for an extended period, such
as during the winter, thoroughly inspect your CRF
and correct any problem before storing it. That
way, needed repairs won’t be forgotten and it will
be easier to get your CRF running again.
To reduce or prevent deterioration that can occur
during storage, also follow the following
procedures.
1. Completely clean all parts of your CRF. If your
CRF has been exposed to sea air or salt water,
wash it down with fresh water and wipe dry.
2.
Change the engine oil and filter (page 49).
3.
Change the transmission oil (page 52).
4. Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain bolt
and sealing washer (1) at the water pump cover
(2) to drain coolant.
After the coolant has been completely drained,
reinstall the drain bolt with a new sealing
washer and radiator cap.
Tighten the drain bolt to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Lubricate the drive chain.
6.
Relieve the fuel pressure (page 40) and drain
the fuel from the fuel tank into
an approved
gasoline contai
ner.
7. Inflate the tires to their recommended
pressures.
8. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent to raise both tires off the ground.
9. Stuff a rag into the muffler outlet. Then tie a
plastic bag over the end of the muffler to
prevent moisture from entering.
10. Store your CRF in an unheated area, free of
dampness, away from sunlight, with a
minimum of daily temperature variation.
11. Cover your CRF with a porous material.
Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing,
coated materials that restrict air flow and allow
heat and moisture to accumulate.
1. Uncover and clean your CRF.
Change the engine and transmission oil if more
than 4 months have passed since the start of
storage.
2. Uncover the end of the muffler and remove the
rag from the muffler outlet.
3.
Fill the fuel tank with the recommended fuel
(
page 39) and increase the fuel pressure
(
page 47
).
4.
Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
slowly into the radiator fill hole up to the filler
neck (page 53).
Capacity:
1.08 US qt (1.02 ℓ)
after disassembly
1.00 US qt (0.95 ℓ)
after draining
Lean your CRF slightly right and left several
times to bleed trapped air in the cooling
system.
If the coolant level lowers, add coolant and
repeat the above procedure.
Install the radiator cap securely.
5.
Perform all maintenance checks (page 13).
Preparation for Storage
(1) coolant drain bolt and sealing washer (new)
(2) water pump cover
(1) (2)
Removal from Storage
You & the Environment
146 Tips
You & the Environment
Owning and riding a motorcycle can be enjoyable,
but you must do your part to protect nature. When
you show respect for the land, wildlife, and other
people, you also help preserve the sport of off road
riding.
Following are tips on how you can be an
environmentally responsible motorcycle owner.
Choose Sensible Cleaners. Use a
biodegradable detergent when you wash your
CRF. Avoid aerosol spray cleaners that contain
chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) which damage the
atmosphere’s protective ozone layer. Don’t
throw cleaning solvents away; see the following
guidelines for proper disposal.
Recycle Wastes. It’s illegal and thoughtless to
put used engine oil in the trash, down a drain, or
on the ground. Used oil, gasoline, coolant, and
cleaning solvents contain poisons that can hurt
refuse workers and contaminate our drinking
water, lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Before changing your oil, make sure you have
the proper containers. Put oil and other toxic
wastes in separate sealed containers and take
them to a recycling center. Call your local or
state office of public works or environmental
services to find a recycling center in your area
and get instructions on how to dispose of non
recyclable wastes.
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Troubleshooting
(cont’d)
Tips 147
The items that are serviceable using this Manual
are followed by the page number reference in
parenthesis. The items that require use of an
official Honda Service Manual are followed by an
asterisk (*).
ENGINE DOES NOT START OR IS HARD TO START
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the spark
plug condition
(P.66)
• Incorrect spark plug heat
range
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Dirty air cleaner element
2. Try spark test* •
Faulty spark plug (P.66)
•
Fouled spark plug (P.66)
• Faulty ECM*
• Broken or shorted spark
plug wire
• Faulty alternator*
• Faulty ignition coil*
• Faulty engine stop
button*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty CKP sensor*
• Faulty regulator/rectifier*
• Faulty condenser*
3. Check the PGM-FI
system (P.7)
•
Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
4. Check the fuel
pump operation
and inspect the fuel
flow*
• Faulty fuel pump*
•
Clogged fuel pump filter
(P.44)
5. Check the fuel
injector operating
sound
•
Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
• Faulty fuel injector
6. Test cylinder
compression*
• Valve clearance too small
• Valve stuck open
• Worn cylinder and piston
ring*
• Damaged cylinder head
gasket
• Improper valve timing*
• Seized valve
CORRECT
INCORRECT
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
NO SPARK
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
LOW
7. Start by following
normal starting
procedure
• Insulator leaking
• Improper ignition timing
(Faulty ECM or CKP
sensor)*
• Fast idle knob stuck open
or damaged
• Fuel contaminated
ENGINE LACKS POWER
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the wheel
spin smoothness
• Brake dragging
• Worn or damaged wheel
bearings
• Bent axle shaft
• Drive chain too tight
2. Check the tire
pressure (P.95)
• Faulty valve core
• Punctured tire
3. Check the engine
speed change
accordingly when
clutch is engaged*
• Clutch slipping
•
Improperly adjusted
clutch lever freeplay
(P.61)
•
Worn clutch discs/plates
(P.64)
•
Warped clutch discs/
plates (P.64)
• Weak clutch springs*
• Sticking clutch lifter
• Additive in transmission
oil
4. Check the engine
speed increase
• Dirty air cleaner element
• Clogged muffler
• Fast idle knob stuck open
or damaged
• Restricted fuel fill cap
breather tube
• Restricted fuel flow
5. Check the engine
knocking when
accelerate or run
the engine at high
speed
• Worn piston and cylinder*
• Use of poor quality fuel
• Excessive carbon buildup
in combustion chamber
• Ignition timing too
advance (Faulty ECM)*
• Lean fuel mixture
6. Check the ignition
timing*
• Faulty ECM*
• Faulty CKP sensor*
ENGINE
STARTS BUT
SOON STOPS
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
GOOD
NO GOOD
GOOD
NO GOOD
NO
YES
CORRECT
INCORRECT
7. Test cylinder
compression*
• Valve clearance too small
• Valve stuck open
• Worn cylinder and piston
ring*
• Damaged cylinder head
gasket
• Improper valve timing*
• Faulty decompressor
system*
8. Check the PGM-FI
system (P.7)
•
Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
9. Check the fuel
pump operation
and inspect the fuel
flow*
• Faulty fuel pump unit*
•
Clogged fuel pump filter
(P.44)
10.Check the spark
plug condition
(P.66)
• Incorrect spark plug
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Dirty air cleaner element
11.Check the engine
oil level and
condition (P.49)
• Engine oil level too high
• Engine oil level too low
• Contaminated engine oil
12.Remove the
cylinder head cover
and inspect
lubrication
• Faulty oil pump*
• Faulty pressure relief
valve*
• Clogged oil passage*
• Clogged oil strainer
screen*
CORRECT
LOW
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
148 Tips
Troubleshooting
POOR HANDLING
Steering is heavy
• Steering stem adjusting nut too tight*
• Damaged steering head bearings
• Faulty HPSD*
Either wheel is wobbling
• Excessive wheel bearing play
• Bent rim
• Improperly installed wheel hub
• Excessively worn swingarm pivot bearings
• Bent frame
The motorcycle pulls to one side
• Front and rear wheels not aligned
• Bent fork
• Bent swingarm
• Bent axle shaft
• Bent frame
POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW AND IDLE SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the spark
plug condition
(P.66)
• Incorrect spark plug heat
range
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Plug not serviced
frequently enough
2. Check the ignition
timing*
• Faulty ECM*
• Faulty CKP sensor*
3. Check the PGM-FI
system (P.7)
•
Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
4. Check the fuel
pump operation
and inspect the fuel
flow*
• Faulty fuel pump unit*
•
Clogged fuel pump filter
(P.44)
5. Check the insulator
for leaks
• Loose insulator
• Damaged insulator
6. Check the valve
clearance (P.67)
• Faulty valve clearance
• Faulty valve*
• Faulty valve seat*
• Faulty camshaft*
7. Try spark test* •
Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.66)
• Faulty ECM*
• Faulty alternator*
• Faulty ignition coil*
• Broken or shorted spark
plug wire.
• Faulty CKP sensor*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty engine stop
button*
• Faulty regulator/rectifier*
• Faulty condenser*
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the ignition
timing*
• Faulty ECM*
• Faulty CKP sensor*
2. Remove the air
cleaner (P.55)
• Not cleaned frequently
enough
3. Check the PGM-FI
system (P.7)
•
Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
4. Check the fuel pump
operation and
inspect the fuel flow*
• Faulty fuel pump unit*
•
Clogged fuel pump filter
(
P.44)
5. Check the valve
timing
•
Camshaft not installed
properly (P.73)
6. Check the valve
clearance (P.67)
• Faulty valve clearance
• Faulty valve*
• Faulty valve seat*
• Faulty camshaft*
7. Check the valve
springs*
• Faulty valve springs*
8. Try spark test* •
Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.66)
• Faulty ECM*
• Faulty alternator*
• Faulty ignition coil*
• Broken or shorted spark
plug wire.
• Faulty CKP sensor*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty engine stop
button*
• Faulty regulator/rectifier*
• Faulty condenser*
9. Remove and
inspect the cam
lobe height*
• Faulty camshaft*
CORRECT
INCORRECT
AIR CLEANER
NOT DIRTY
DIRTY
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
INCORRECT
GOOD
WEAR
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
CORRECT
WORN
Technical Information
Technical Information 149
This section contains dimensions, capacities, and
other technical data.
Vehicle Identification.....................................150
Serial Numbers...........................................150
Specifications.................................................151
Torque Specifications
....................................152
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners................................152
Oxygenated Fuels...........................................155
Competition Logbook....................................156
Optional Parts List.........................................158
Spare Parts & Equipment................................159
Spare Parts.................................................159
General Tools.............................................159
Honda Special Tools..................................159
Chemical Products.....................................159
Other Products...........................................159
Wiring Diagram.............................................160
Vehicle Identification
150 Technical Information
Vehicle Identification
The VIN and engine serial number are required
when you register your CRF. They may also be
required when ordering replacement parts. You
may record these numbers in the Quick Reference
section at the rear of this manual.
The VIN (vehicle identification number) (1) is
stamped on the right side of the steering head.
The engine number (2) is stamped on the left
crankcase.
Serial Numbers
(1) VIN
(1)
(2) engine number
(2)
Specifications
Technical Information 151
Item English Metric
Dimension
Overall length 85.9 in 2,181 mm
Overall width 32.6 in 827 mm
Overall height 50.0 in 1,271 mm
Wheelbase 58.6 in 1,489 mm
Seat height 37.4 in 951 mm
Footpeg height 16.5 in 418 mm
Ground clearance 12.7 in 322 mm
Frame
Type Twin tube
F. suspension
Telescopic fork,
travel 10.7 in (273 mm)
stroke 12.2 in (310 mm)
R. suspension
Pro-link,
travel 12.3 in (313 mm)
Tire size, front
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP MX51FA
Tire size, rear
100/90 – 19 57M
DUNLOP MX51
Tire type bias-ply, tube
Tire pressure, front (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire pressure, rear (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
F. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
51.8 in
2
(334.5
cm
2
)
R. brake, swept area
Single disc brake
60.6 in
2
(391.1
cm
2
)
Fuel
unleaded gasoline, pump
octane number of 91 or higher
Fuel tank capacity
1.66 US gal
6.3 ℓ
Caster angle 27°23’
Trail length 4.6 in 118 mm
Fork oil capacity
(except damper)
12.1 US oz
357 cm
3
Fork oil capacity
(damper)
8.2 US oz
243 cm
3
Item English Metric
Engine
Type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Cylinder arrangement
Single 5° inclined from
vertical
Bore and stroke
3.02 x 2.12 in 76.8 x 53.8 mm
Displacement 15.21 cu-in 249.4 cm
3
Compression ratio 13.5: 1
Valve clearance (cold)
Intake: 0.005 ± 0.001 in
(0.12 ± 0.03 mm)
Exhaust: 0.011 ± 0.001 in
(0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
0.71 US qt 0.67 ℓafter draining
after draining and oil
filter change 0.73 US qt 0.69 ℓ
after disassembly 0.90 US qt 0.85 ℓ
Transmission oil capacity
0.72 US qt 0.68 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 0.80 US qt 0.75 ℓ
Throttle body
Identification number GQ28A
Idle speed 2,000 ± 100 rpm
Cooling system
Cooling capacity
1.00 US qt 0.95 ℓafter draining
after disassembly 1.08 US qt 1.02 ℓ
Item English Metric
Drive train
Clutch type Wet, multi-plate type
Transmission 5-speed, constant mesh
Primary reduction 3.166
Gear ratio I 2.357
Gear ratio II 1.888
Gear ratio III 1.555
Gear ratio IV 1.333
Gear ratio V 1.136
Final reduction 3.769
Gear shift pattern
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
Electrical
Ignition ECM
Starting system Kickstarter
Spark plug: NGK
Standard R0451B-8
Spark plug gap
0.024 – 0.028 in
(0.6 – 0.7 mm)
Torque Specifications
152 Technical Information
Torque Specifications
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before every outing.
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
RIGHT SIDE
(1)
(2)
(3)
(7)
(5)
(4)
(8)
(6)
(14)
LEFT SIDE
(1)
(11)
(14)
(9)
(10)
(13)
(12)
ENGINE
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf·ft N·m kgf·m
1 Cylinder head cover bolts 7 10 1.0
2 Exhaust pipe joint nuts 15 21 2.1
3 Water pump cover bolts 7 10 1.0
4 Crankshaft hole cap 11 15 1.5 NOTE 1
5 Transmission oil check
bolt 9 12 1.2
6 Clutch cover bolts 7 10 1.0
7 Coolant drain bolt 7 10 1.0
8 Engine oil drain bolt 12 16 1.6 NOTE 2
9 Cylinder bolt 7 10 1.0
10 Oil filter cover bolts 9 12 1.2
11 Cylinder head A bolts 7 10 1.0
12 Drive sprocket bolt 23 31 3.2
13 Transmission oil drain bolt 12 16 1.6 NOTE 2
14 Cylinder head B bolts 33 45 4.6 NOTE 2
NOTES: 1. Apply grease to the threads.
2. Apply oil to the threads.
Torque Specifications
Technical Information 153
LEFT SIDE
(4)
(16)
(1)
(21)
(13)
(14)
(17)
(9)
(17)
(14)
(15)
(12)
(6)
(7)
(3)
(5)
(2)
RIGHT SIDE
(19)
(2)
(13)
(12)
(16)
(3)
(10)
(11)
(20)
(18)
(8)
(9)
FRAME
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf·ft N·m kgf·m
1 Steering stem nut 80 108 11.0
2 Fork bridge upper pinch
bolts 16 22 2.2
3 Fork bridge lower pinch
bolts 15 20 2.0
4 Handlebar upper holder
bolts 16 22 2.2
5 Handlebar lower holder
nuts 32 44 4.5
6 Front axle nut 65 88 9.0
7 Axle pinch bolts 15 20 2.0
8 Rear axle nut 94 128 13.1 NOTE 1
9 Chain adjuster lock nuts 20 27 2.8 NOTE 2
10 Front engine hanger nuts 40 54 5.5
Front engine hanger plate
nuts 19 26 2.7
11 Lower engine hanger nut 40 54 5.5
12 Cylinder head hanger
bolts 40 54 5.5
13 Cylinder head hanger
plate bolts 24 32 3.3
14 Rear suspension (upper) 32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
(lower) 32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
15 Swingarm pivot nut 65 88 9.0 NOTE 1
16 Fork (fork cap assembly) 22 30 3.1
(fork damper) 25 34 3.5
17 Rear shock arm nuts
(swingarm side:
nut width 17 mm) 39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 6
(shock link side:
nut width 19 mm) 39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 6
18 Rear shock link nut 39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 6
19
Rear shock spring lock nut
32 44 4.5
20 Kickstarter arm bolt 28 38 3.9 NOTE 5
21 Fuel pump mounting bolts 8 11 1.1
NOTES: 1. U-nut
2. UBS nut
5. Alock bolt: replace with a new one.
6. Apply molybdenum oil to the threads and flange surface.
Torque Specifications
154 Technical Information
LEFT SIDE
(41)
(46)
(31)
(38)
(42)
(49)
(37)
(28)
(30)
(47)
(24)
(43)
(35)
(25)
(28)
(34)
(48)
(50)
(23)
(24)
RIGHT SIDE
(44)
(39)
(23)
(41)
(35)
(29)
(33)(32)
(36)
(27)
(45)
(40)
(29)
(26)
(36)
(42)
(38)
(42)
(31)
(46)
(22)
(23)
(23)
(50)
FRAME
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf·ft N·m kgf·m
22 Front brake master cylinder
holder bolts 7.3 9.9 1.0
23 Brake hose oil bolts 25 34 3.5
24 Front brake caliper
mounting bolts 22 30 3.1 NOTE 5
25 Front brake disc nuts 12 16 1.6 NOTE 1
26 Rear brake disc nuts 12 16 1.6 NOTE 1
27 Brake pedal pivot bolt 27 36 3.7 NOTE 5
28 Spokes (front) 2.7 3.7 0.4
(rear) 2.7 3.7 0.4
29 Rim locks 9 12 1.2
30 Drive chain roller (upper) 9 12 1.2 NOTE 4, 5
(lower) 9 12 1.2 NOTE 1
31
Subframe bolts
(upper) 24 32 3.3
(lower) 36 49 5.0
32 Fork center bolt 51 69 7.0 NOTE 3
33 Fork center bolt lock nut 16 22 2.2
34 Disc cover socket bolts 10 13 1.3
35 Fork protector socket bolts 5.2 7 0.7 NOTE 5
36 Left / right muffler clamp
bolt 15 20 2.0
37 Driven sprocket nuts 24 32 3.3 NOTE 1
38 Seat mounting bolts 19 26 2.7
39 Front brake reservoir cap
screws 0.7 1.0 0.1
40 Rear brake reservoir cap
bolts 0.7 1.0 0.1
41 Fork air pressure release
screw 1.0 1.3 0.1
42 Right/left muffler mounting
(B) bolt (rear) 19 26 2.7
Right muffler mounting A
bolt (front) 19 26 2.7
43 Steering damper mounting
bolts 15 20 2.0 NOTE 5
44 Throttle cable adjuster lock
nuts 3.0 4.0 0.4
45 Rear master cylinder push
rod lock nut 4.4 5.9 0.6
46 Shroud B bolts (upper) 3.8 5.2 0.5
47 Left engine guard bolt/
washer 7 10 1.0
48 Air bleed bolt 1.2 1.6 0.2
49 Mud guard screws 1.1 1.5 0.2
50 Side cover bolts 7 10 1.0
NOTES: 1. U-nut
3. Apply a locking agent to the threads.
4. SH bolt
5. Alock bolt: replace with a new one.
Oxygenated Fuels
Technical Information 155
Some conventional gasolines are being blended
with alcohol or an ether compound. These
gasolines are collectively referred to as oxygenated
fuels. To meet clean air standards, some areas of
the United States and Canada use oxygenated fuels
to help reduce emissions.
If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is
unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating
requirement.
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm the
fuel’s contents. Some states/province require this
information to be posted on the pump.
The following fuel blends are EPA-approved and
have been approved for use in your motorcycle:
ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol) up to 10% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 10%
ethanol by volume. Gasoline containing ethanol
may be marketed under the name “Gasohol”.
METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol) up to 5%
by Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 5%
methanol by volume as long as it also contains
cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors to protect the
fuel system. Gasoline containing more than 5%
methanol by volume may cause starting and/or
performance problems.
It may also damage metal, rubber, and plastic parts
of your fuel system.
If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms,
try another service station or switch to another
brand of gasoline.
Fuel system damage or performance problems
resulting from the use of an oxygenated fuel
containing more than the percentages of
oxygenates mentioned above are not covered
under warranty.
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
Be careful not to spill fuel when filling the fuel
tank. Wipe up any spills immediately.
NOTICE
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
Competition Logbook
156 Technical Information
Competition Logbook
Any serious competition effort relies heavily on
the knowledge gained and compiled from previous
racing events. The best way to organize the many
bits of information is to record them in a logbook.
Your logbook can include such information as
suspension adjustments, steering damper
adjustments, gearing, and tire selection. This
detailed information, along with your comments,
can prove valuable when you compete at the same
track or on similar terrain.
Your logbook can also tell you when maintenance
was performed and when it will be necessary
again. Your logbook also lets you record any
repairs and lets you keep track of the running time
on the engine and suspension components.
If you choose to sell your CRF, the accurate
maintenance records in your logbook might be the
deciding deal-maker for a potential buyer.
Consider using different color pens or pencils to
record important information on specific subjects.
For example, record results in black,
steering damper setting in red, suspension/chassis
settings in blue, and gearing selections in green.
Color codes will help you identify the information
you want with a glance.
Tuning & Adjustment Records
Keep track of the settings and adjustments that
worked best at a particular location. These items
include:
• basic track conditions, altitude, and
temperature
• suspension settings
• steering damper settings
• chassis adjustments tested and selected
• gearing
• tire selection
• air pressure
Competition Records
• your placings
• thoughts to improve performance next time:
both yours and your CRF’s
• strategy notes
Maintenance Records
• regular interval maintenance
• repairs
• running time on engine
• running time on suspension components
Timekeeping
This Manual lists maintenance intervals for every-
so-many races or every-so-many hours of running.
Because all races are not the same, the most
effective way to schedule maintenance is by the
hours you have run your CRF.
An official “guesstimate” is close enough for our
timekeeping purposes. You may choose to record
your time the same way aircraft operators do (but
without the benefit of an electrical hourmeter).
All running time is broken down into hours and
tenths of an hour (each 6 minutes represents one
tenth of an hour).
Racing Records
Information worth recording for this section of
your logbook may include:
• Your placing in each moto and overall
finishing position.
• Thoughts on what you could do to improve
your performance next time.
• Notes on any patterns noted in choice of
starting gate positions or in riding portions of
the course as the day progressed that may
prove helpful in future events.
• Any places on the course where you chose the
wrong line and were passed too easily.
• Notes on strategy used by your competition or
by riders in another event that are worth
remembering.
Maintenance Records
Regular maintenance items you’ll want to record
in your logbook should include:
• Dates and results of cylinder, piston and ring
examinations
• Patterns for frequency of need for
decarbonization with a particular oil
• When you last performed shock linkage and
swingarm pivot bearing maintenance
• Engine, transmission, and suspension oil
changes
• Chain, sprocket, chain roller and slider
replacements
• Coolant changes and related component
replacements
• Spark plug, brake pad and control cable
replacements
In addition, you should record any irregularities
noted in component wear so you’ll remember to
keep a close eye on these areas in the future.
Competition Logbook
Technical Information 157
Date Running
Time
Location/Event Comments (Suspension Settings, Steering Damper Settings, Gearing, Chassis Adjustments,
Maintenance Performed, etc.)
(Make several photocopies of this page for future use)
Optional Parts List
158 Technical Information
Optional Parts List
These parts and tools may be ordered from your
authorized dealer.
The standard fork spring and shock spring
mounted on the motorcycle when it leaves the
factory are not marked. Before replacing the
springs, be sure to mark them so they can be
distinguished other optional springs.
FRAME Remarks
Driven sprocket < >: Drive chain links
49 Teeth, Aluminum.
<116>
Standard
Optional 48 Teeth, Aluminum
50 Teeth, Aluminum
Drive chain
size/link
D.I.D 520 DMA4/120RB
RK520TXZ/120RJ
Handlebar
lower holder
0.1 in (3 mm) offset
Optional no offset
TOOLS Remarks
Pin spanner A To adjust spring preload.
(two spanners required)
Workstand For maintenance
Air gauge For checking tire air pressure
FRAME Remarks
Shock spring 297 lbf/in (52 N/mm)
Standard
Optional 286 lbf/in (50 N/mm)
Softer
Stiffer 308 lbf/in (54 N/mm)
Fork spring 26.21 lbf/in (4.59 N/mm)
Standard
Optional 25.12 lbf/in (4.40 N/mm)
Softer
Stiffer 27.41 lbf/in (4.80 N/mm)
or
Yellow paint
Brown paint
No marks
(factory products)
2 scribe marks
or
No marks
3 scribe marks
No mark
(factory products)
Lime green paint
(aftermarket parts)
Spare Parts & Equipment
Technical Information 159
There are numerous spare parts you can take to an
event to help ensure you get in a full day of riding.
In addition to the usual nuts and bolts, consider the
following:
spark plugs
air cleaner (clean & oiled, sealed in a plastic bag)
chain & masterlinks
chain guide slider
chain slider
chain rollers
tire tubes (front & rear)
fenders
footpegs
fuel feed hose and retainers
fuel pump filter
number plate & side covers
handlebar
grips
levers (brake & clutch)
clutch lever handlebar mount
clutch cable
throttle assembly
throttle cable
shift lever
brake pedal
spokes (front & rear, each side)
sprockets (larger & smaller than standard)
assorted nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cotter pins
Additional Spares
fuel pump
front brake master cylinder
rear brake assembly
wheels & tires (front & rear, mounted)
clutch discs and plates
engine & transmission oil
seat
ignition components
radiator hoses
radiator shrouds (L & R)
brake hoses (front & rear)
sockets (3/8 in drive)
screwdrivers: blade & Phillips No. 1, 2, 3
wrench, large adjustable
wrenches: open end & box
wrenches: hex (Allen)
wrench, spoke
torque wrench (metric scale, click-stop style)
pliers: standard, needle-nose, channel-lock set
hammer, plastic head
syringe with adjustable stop
tire pressure gauge
tire irons
tire pump or air tank
feeler gauge set
Vernier caliper (metric)
pressure/vacuum testing equipment
Any special tools for your CRF purchased from
your dealer.
•
Tensioner Stopper 070MG-0010100
07AMG-001A100
(USA only)
• Lock Nut Wrench 07WMA-KZ30100
• Spoke Wrench 07JMA-MR60100
• Spoke Wrench 070MA-KZ30100
• Piston Base 07958-2500001
• Fork Rod Holder 07AMB-KZ3A100
(USA only)
• Battery Harness 070MZ-MEN0100
• Battery Harness Adapter 070MZ-KRN0100
You can purchase a PGM-FI Setting Tool for your
CRF from your dealer.
• PGM-FI Setting Tool 06380-N1D-A00
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
(Engine and Transmission Oil)
HP Fork Oil, SS-19
Pro Honda DOT 4 Brake Fluid
Pro Honda HP Chain Lube
Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
Pro Honda Hondabrite
Pro Honda Dielectric Grease
Pro Honda Handgrip Cement
Pro Honda Hondalock
Molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more
than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive)
Pro Honda White Lithium Grease
Multi-Purpose Grease
Rust-inhibiting oil
Cable lubricant
Pro Honda HP Coolant
Urea based multi-purpose grease designed for high
temperature, high pressure performance
(example: EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by
KYODO YUSHI, Japan or Shell Stamina EP2 or
equivalent)
pliers-safety wire
safety wire
mechanic’s wire
duct tape
plastic tie-wraps
hose clamps
drop light
electrical tape
Scotch-Brite Hand Pad #7447 (maroon)
Teflon tape
Spare Parts
General Tools
Honda Special Tools
Chemical Products
Other Products
Wiring Diagram
160 Technical Information
ENGINE STOP BUTTON Bl Black Br Brown
E IG Y Yellow O Orange
PUSH Bu Blue Lb Light blue
FREE G Green Lg Light green
COLOR Bl/W R/Y R Red P Pink
W White Gr Gray
FUEL PUMP
ENGINE STOP BUTTON
REGULATOR/
RECTIFIER
CONDENSER
NO.1 CKP SENSOR
FRAME
GROUND
IGNITION
COIL
SPARK
PLUG
ALTERNATOR
NO.2 CKP SENSOR
ECT SENSOR
IAT SENSOR
TP SENSOR
MAP SENSOR
ECM
INJCECTOR
Consumer Information
Consumer Information 161
This section contains information about contacting
Honda and how to get an official Honda Service
Manual.
Authorized Manuals........................................162
Contacting Honda..........................................163
Your Honda Dealer........................................164
The Honda Rider's Club (USA only)
.............165
Authorized Manuals
162 Consumer Information
Authorized Manuals
The Service Manual used by your authorized dealer is available from your
Honda dealer or Helm, Inc. (USA only, Canada: See your dealer to order
authorized manuals.)
Also available but not necessary to service your model is the Honda Common
Service Manual which explains theory of operation and basic service
information for various systems on Honda motorcycles, scooters, ATVs,
MUVs, and PWCs.
These Honda manuals are written for the professional technician, but most
mechanically-capable owners should find them helpful if they have the proper
tools and skills. Special Honda tools are necessary for some procedures.
Order On-Line: www.helminc.com
Order Toll Free: 1-888-CYCLE93 (1-888-292-5393)
(NOTE: For Credit Card Orders Only)
Monday - Friday 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM EST
Publication Item No. Description
61KRN54 2014 CRF250R Service Manual
61CSM00 Common Service Manual
31KRN700 2014 CRF250R Owner’s Manual
Contacting Honda
Consumer Information 163
Your owner’s manual was written to cover most of
the questions you might ask about your CRF.
Any questions not answered in the owner’s manual
can be answered by your dealer. If your dealer
doesn’t have the answer right away, they will get it
for you.
If you have a difference of opinion with your
dealer, please remember that each dealership is
independently owned and operated. That’s why
it’s important to work to resolve any differences at
the dealership level.
If you wish to comment on your experiences with
your CRF or with your dealer, please send your
comments to the following address:
Motorcycle Division, American Honda Motor Co.,
Inc., P.O. Box 2200, Torrance CA 90509- 2200,
Mailstop: 100-4C-7B,
Telephone: (866) 784-1870.
Canada: Honda Canada Inc., Customer Relations
Dept, 180 Honda Boulevard, Markham, Ontario
L6C 0H9, telephone: (888) 946 – 6329,
facsimile: (877) 939 – 0909.
E-mail: [email protected]
Please include the following information in your
letter:
•
name, address, and telephone number
• product model, year, and VIN
•
date of purchase
• dealer name and address
We will likely ask your dealer to respond, or
possibly acknowledge your comments directly.
Your Honda Dealer
164 Consumer Information
Your Honda Dealer
Once you purchase your new Honda, get familiar
with the organization of your Honda dealer so you
can utilize the full range of services available.
The service department is there to perform regular
maintenance and unexpected repairs. It has the
latest available service information from Honda.
The parts department offers Honda Genuine Parts,
Pro Honda products, Honda Genuine Accessories
(USA only), and Honda accessories and products
(Canada only). The same quality that went into
your Honda can be found in Honda Genuine
replacement parts. You’ll also find comparable
quality in the accessories and products available
from the parts department.
Your Honda dealer can inform you about
competition events in your area. You’ll also find
that your dealer is a source of information on the
Honda Rider’s Club of America (USA only).
We’re sure you’ll be as pleased with the service
your Honda dealer continues to provide after the
sale as you are with the quality and dependability
of your Honda.
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only)
Consumer Information 165
The Honda Rider's Club of America (HRCA)
sponsors local riding chapters at Authorized
Honda Dealerships across the country. You can log
on to the HRCA Clubhouse website for more
information at www.hrca.honda.com.
Index
166 Index
accessories.........................................................3
adjustments,
chassis.......................................................138
control freeplay
..............................
58, 61, 90
for competition.........................................111
gearing......................................................139
personal fit................................................
141
steering damper........................................136
suspension, front.......................................112
suspension, rear........................................127
suspension, track conditions.....................131
tire selection, track condition...................140
after competition maintenance........................31
air cleaner........................................................55
air pressure,
front suspension........................................112
tires.............................................................95
apparel, protective............................................2
appearance care.............................................109
authorized manuals........................................162
basic operation.................................................15
before riding....................................................11
between motos & practice maintenance..........30
brakes,
fluid level....................................................91
lever, front adjustment................................90
pad wear.....................................................93
pedal height................................................90
break-in guidelines..........................................19
capacity, fuel....................................................39
care, appearance.............................................109
chain drive........................................................97
chassis adjustments........................................138
cleaner, air........................................................55
cleaning, appearance care...............................109
clutch system, adjustment................................61
competition logbook......................................156
consumer information....................................161
contacting Honda...........................................163
controls...............................................................5
coolant..............................................................53
customer service.............................................164
cylinder system................................................78
damping adjustments,
front...........................................................112
rear...........................................................128
steering damper.........................................136
dealer, your Honda.........................................164
diagram, wiring..............................................160
drive chain........................................................97
engine,
flooded........................................................17
idle speed...................................................60
lacks power...............................................147
number......................................................150
oil................................................................48
pinging........................................................39
starting........................................................17
stop button..................................................18
stopping......................................................18
won’t start.................................................147
environment, protecting.................................146
filter,
air................................................................55
fuel pump....................................................43
oil................................................................49
flooded engine, starting...................................17
fork,
front suspension adjustment.....................112
front suspension inspection........................86
oil recommendation....................................88
front brake lever adjustment............................90
front suspension maintenance.........................112
fuel...................................................................39
fuel,
line inspection.............................................39
line replacement..........................................40
oxygenated................................................155
pump filter..................................................43
refueling......................................................39
system........................................................39
tank capacity...............................................39
A
B
C
D
E
F
Index 167
Index
gap, spark plug
................................................
66
gasohol...........................................................155
gasoline............................................................
39
gearing...........................................................139
guidelines,
steering damper........................................137
suspension adjustment..............................
132
handlebar inspection......................................
107
Honda,
contacting.................................................163
Rider’s Club.............................................165
service manual..........................................
162
your dealer................................................
164
identification, vehicle
....................................
150
idle knob, fast
............................................
17, 60
idle speed, engine............................................60
indicator,
circuit inspection
..........................................
8
DTC index....................................................9
MIL blink....................................................7
inspection, pre-ride..........................................
13
instruments........................................................5
labels, safety......................................................4
logbook, competition.....................................
156
maintenance,
after competition
.........................................31
before & after competition.....
.....................30
between motos & practice...........................30
component locations...................................32
general competition.....................................26
importance...................................................22
safety...........................................................23
schedule.......................................................24
manual, service...............................................162
modifications......................................................3
oil,
engine..........................................................48
fork..............................................................88
transmission
................................................51
operating instructions.......................................15
operation component locations..........................6
optional,
parts list.....................................................158
sprockets...................................................139
oxygenated fuels............................................155
pads, brake
.......................................................93
parts, optional.................................................158
personal fit adjustments
.................................141
pinging, engine.................................................39
plug, spark........................................................66
pre-load, rear suspension................................127
pre-ride inspection............................................13
protective apparel...............................................2
rear suspension maintenance.........................127
Rider’s Club Honda (USA only)...................165
riding,
apparel.........................................................2
basic operation............................................15
before..........................................................11
important safety information.......................2
safety precautions........................................2
safety,
a few words about................
Safety Messages
important information...................................2
important precautions
...................................2
labels.............................................................4
maintenance................................................23
riding precautions.......................................16
schedule, maintenance
.....................................24
seat...................................................................33
serial numbers................................................150
service,
customer....................................................164
manuals.....................................................162
spare parts......................................................159
spark knock......................................................39
spark plug,
maintenance................................................66
reading......................................................135
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spring pre-load, rear suspension....................127
starting,
engine..........................................................17
troubleshooting.........................................147
steering damper,
adjustment.................................................136
guidelines..................................................137
operation inspection..................................104
G
H
I
L
M
O
P
R
S
(cont’d)
168 Index
Index
steering stem inspection................................107
stopping engine................................................18
storage...........................................................145
subframe..........................................................37
suspension,
front............................................................86
rear..............................................................87
suspension adjustment,
for track conditions...................................131
front..........................................................112
guidelines.................................................132
rear............................................................127
throttle,
freeplay.......................................................58
inspection...................................................59
tires,
air pressure.................................................95
flat...............................................................95
selection......................................................96
tools...............................................................159
torque specifications
engine.......................................................152
frame..................................................153-154
transmission oil................................................51
transporting....................................................144
troubleshooting..............................................147
tubes, replacing................................................95
tuning tips......................................................135
valve clearance................................................67
vehicle identification no. (VIN)....................150
washing your motorcycle...............................109
wheels...............................................................94
wiring diagram...............................................160
T
V
W
Quick Reference
Quick Reference
Quick Reference
The following is a brief, but important collection
of information you need to know about your CRF.
You'll also find space to record important notes.
The engine of your CRF can be the most expensive
component to repair. Proper maintenance,
especially the use of the recommended fluids and
filters, prevents premature wear and damage.
Frequent causes of costly engine repairs are:
• Transmission oil & engine oil: insufficient
quantity, improper oil.
• Air cleaner: dirty, leaking because of improper
installation (poor seal)
How To Avoid Costly Repairs
Record important information here:
VIN
Engine No.
Owner's:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Dealer's:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Service Mgr.
Maintenance
The maintenance schedule (page 25) lists service frequencies for:
each race or about 2.5 hours,
every 3 races or about 7.5 hours, every 6
races or about 15.0 hours,
every 9 races or about 22.5 hours and every 12 races or about 30.0 hours
Pre-ride Inspection
Check the items listed on the Pre-ride In
spection checklist each time before you ri
de
(
page 13):
Fuel/Tank Capacity unleaded gasoline, pump octane number of 91 or higher
tank: 1.66 US gal (6.3 ℓ)
Engine oil Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
Transmission oil Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
Tires Front 80/100 – 21 51M Rear 100/90 – 19 57M
DUNLOP MX51FA DUNLOP MX51
Type bias-ply, tube
Tire Pressure (cold)
Front: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Spark Plug standard: R0451B-8 (NGK)
Coolant ethylene glycol antifreeze (silicate-free) for aluminum engines in 50/50 solution with
Pro Honda HP Coolant or an equivalent distilled water.
Drive Chain Size/Link D.I.D 520DMA4/116RB
RK 520TXZ/116RJ
