User Manual Honda CRF250F 2022 Off-road Trail

Honda CRF250F 2022 Off-road Trail - Use Manual - Use Guide PDF.
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  • Owner's manual - (English)

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Operating Controls

Operation Component Locations

Ignition Switch

The ignition switch (1) is used to prevent unauthorized use of the motorcycle.

Before riding, insert the key and turn it to the (ON) position.

Key PositionFunctionKey Removal
n Function Key Removal OThe engine cannot be operated.The key can be removed.
(ON)With the transmission in neutral or in gear with the clutch lever pulled in, the engine can be started.The key cannot be removed.

After parking the motorcycle, remove the key.

Start Button

The start button is used for starting the engine. Pushing the button in starts the engine.

When the start button is pushed, the starter motor will crank the engine.

Engine Stop Button

The engine stop button is used to turn the engine off in an emergency. To operate, push the button in and hold it in until the engine stops completely.

Front Brake Lever

The front brake lever is used to slow or stop your motorcycle. To operate, pull the lever.

Throttle

The throttle controls engine rpm (speed). To increase engine rpm, rotate the grip toward you. To reduce engine rpm, rotate the grip away from you. The throttle will automatically return to the closed position (engine idle) when you remove your hand.

Clutch Lever

The clutch lever is used to disengage the clutch whenever you shift gears. To operate, pull the clutch lever in all the way before shifting, then slowly release it after shifting.

Shift Lever

The shift lever is used to select the next higher or lower gear in the transmission. To operate, raise the shift lever (after pulling in the clutch lever) to engage the next higher gear or depress the shift lever to engage the next lower gear.

Rear Brake Pedal

The rear brake pedal is used to slow or stop your motorcycle. To operate, depress the pedal.

Side Stand

The side stand is used to support your motorcycle while parked. To operate, use your foot to lower the stand. Before riding, raise the stand.

PGM-FI Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)

Lights when there is any abnormality in the PGM-FI (Programmed Fuel Injection) system. The indicator should also light for a few seconds and then go off when the ignition switch is turned on. If the indicator does not come on when it should, have your dealer check for problems.

If it comes on at any other time, reduce speed and take the motorcycle to your dealer as soon as possible.

Fuel Reserve Indicator

When this indicator comes on while riding, fuel reserved in the tank is about: 0.34 US gal (1.3 ).

The indicator should also light for a few seconds and then go off when the ignition switch is turned on. If the indicator does not come on when it should, have your dealer check for problems.

Basic Operation & Riding

Starting & Stopping the Engine

Preparation

Before starting, insert the key and turn the ignition switch to (ON), and confirm the following:

  • The transmission is in neutral.
  • The PGM-FI malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) is off.

Starting Procedure

This motorcycle has a fuel-injected engine. Follow the procedure indicated below.

Any Air Temperature

  1. With the throttle completely closed, press the start button.
  2. If you cannot start the engine, open the throttle slightly (about 0.1 in (3 mm), without freeplay).

Flooded Engine

If the engine fails to start after repeated attempts, it may be flooded with excess fuel. To clear a flooded engine:

  1. Open the throttle fully.
  2. While pushing the engine stop button, press the start button for 5 seconds.
  3. Release the engine stop button.
  4. Follow the normal engine starting procedure

Bank Angle Sensor Ignition Cut-off System

Your motorcycle’s banking (lean angle) sensor system is designed to automatically stop the engine and fuel pump if the motorcycle is overturned.

Before restarting the engine, you must turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and then back to (ON). The engine will not restart until you perform this procedure.

How to Stop the Engine

To stop the engine, shift into neutral, and turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

Shifting Gears

Your motorcycle has five forward gears.

To start riding, after the engine has been warmed and the side stand raised:

  1. Close the throttle and pull the front brake lever in.
  2. Pull the clutch lever all the way in.
  3. Depress the shift lever from neutral down to first gear.
  4. Release the front brake. Gradually open the throttle while you slowly release the clutch lever. If engine rpm (speed) is too low when you release the clutch lever, the engine will stall. If engine rpm is too high or you release the clutch lever too quickly, your motorcycle may lurch forward.
  5. When you attain a moderate speed, close the throttle, pull the clutch lever in, and raise the shift lever. After shifting, release the clutch lever and apply the throttle.
  6. To continue shifting up to each higher gear, repeat step 5.
  7. To shift down to a lower gear, close the throttle, pull the clutch lever in, and depress the shift lever. After shifting, release the clutch lever and apply the throttle.

Remember to close the throttle and pull the clutch lever in completely before shifting.

NOTICE: Improper shifting may damage the engine, transmission, and drive train.

Learning when to shift gears comes with experience. Upshift to a higher gear or reduce throttle before engine rpm (speed) gets too high. Downshift to a lower gear before you feel the engine laboring (lugging) at low rpm.

NOTICE: Downshifting can help slow your motorcycle, especially on downhills. However, downshifting when engine rpm is too high can cause engine damage.

NOTICE: To prevent transmission damage, do not coast or tow the motorcycle for long distances with the engine off

Braking

To slow or stop, apply the front brake and rear brake smoothly, while downshifting to match your speed. Gradually increase braking as you feel the brakes slowing your speed. To prevent stalling the engine, pull the clutch lever in before coming to a complete stop. For support, put your left foot down first, then your right foot when you have finished using the rear brake.

For maximum braking, close the throttle and firmly apply the brake lever and pedal controls.

Applying the brakes too hard may cause the wheels to lock and slide, reducing control of your motorcycle. If this happens, release the brake controls, steer straight ahead until you regain control, then reapply the brakes more gently.

Generally, reduce your speed or complete braking before beginning a turn. Avoid braking or closing the throttle quickly while turning. Either action may cause one or both wheels to slip. Any wheel slip will reduce your control of your motorcycle.

When riding in wet or rainy conditions, or on loose surfaces, the ability to maneuver and stop will be reduced. All of your actions should be smooth under these conditions. Rapid acceleration, braking or turning may cause loss of control. For your safety, exercise extreme caution when braking, accelerating, or turning.

When descending a long, steep grade, use engine compression braking by downshifting, with intermittent use of both brakes.

When you brake to a stop, pull the clutch lever in before stopping completely to prevent stalling the engine. For support, put your left foot on the ground first, then your right foot when you have finished braking.

Lower the side stand to support your motorcycle. Turn the ignition switch OFF and remove the key. Always choose a level place to park.

Post-ride Inspection

When you return home after riding, thoroughly clean your motorcycle and remove any dirt, mud, brush, rocks or other objects you may have picked up along the way.

After cleaning, carefully inspect your motorcycle for leaks or damage.

Be sure to lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.

Servicing Your Honda

Maintenance Component Locations

Tools

(1) spoke wrench

The spoke wrench is delivered with your motorcycle for tightening or loosening the spokes (USA only).

You will need to provide your own tools to perform any owner maintenance.

Side Cover Removal

(1) right side cover

(2) bolt

(3) prongs

(4) rubber grommets

(5) boss

(6) hole

The right and left side covers can be removed in the same manner.

The right side cover (1) must be removed to service the air cleaner. The left side cover must be removed to service the battery, main fuse and sub fuse.

Removal

  1. Remove the bolt (2).
  2. Pull out the prongs (3) from the rubber grommets (4), and the boss (5) from the hole (6) on the shroud.

Installation

  1. Slide the top of the side cover under the bottom edge of the seat.
  2. Align the prongs with the rubber grommets, and the boss with the hole on the shroud.
  3. Install the bolt and tighten it securely.

Fuel

Fuel Recommendation

Typeunleaded
Pump Octane Number86 (or higher)

Your engine is designed to use any unleaded gasoline that has a pump octane number of 86 or higher. Gasoline pumps at service stations normally display the pump octane number.

Use of lower octane gasoline can cause persistent ‘‘pinging’’ or ‘‘spark knock’’ (a louder rapping noise) which, if severe, can lead to engine damage. (Light pinging experienced while operating under a heavy load, such as climbing a hill, is no cause for concern.)

If pinging or spark knock occurs at a steady engine speed under normal load, change brands of gasoline. If pinging or spark knock persists, consult your dealer.

Use only unleaded fuel in your Honda. If you ride your Honda in a country where leaded fuel might be available, take precautions to use only unleaded fuel.

Never use stale or contaminated gasoline or an oil/gasoline mixture. Avoid getting dirt, dust, or water in the fuel tank.

Refueling Procedure

Fuel Tank Capacity, including reserve: 1.59 US gal (6.0 l)

Reserve Capacity: 0.34 US gal (1.3 l)

(1) fuel fill cap

(2) breather tube

(3) steering stem nut

(4) bottom of the filler neck

  1. To open the fuel fill cap (1), pull the breather tube (2) out of the steering stem nut (3). Turn the fuel fill cap counterclockwise and remove it.
  2. Add fuel until the level reaches the bottom of the filler neck (4). Avoid overfilling the tank. There should be no fuel in the filler neck.
  3. After refueling, turn the fuel fill cap clockwise until it clicks.
  4. Insert the breather tube in the steering stem nut.

If you replace the fuel fill cap, use a Honda Genuine replacement part or equivalent.

WARNING: Gasoline is highly flammable and explosive. You can be burned or seriously injured when handling fuel.

  • Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks and flame away.
  • Handle fuel only outdoors.
  • Wipe up spills immediately.

Engine Oil

Using the proper oil, and regularly checking, adding, and changing oil will help extend your engine’s life. Even the best oil wears out. Changing oil helps get rid of dirt and deposits held in the engine. Operating the engine with old or dirty oil can damage your engine. Running the engine with insufficient oil can cause serious damage to the engine and transmission.

Oil Recommendation

API classificationSG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label
viscosity (weight)SAE 10W-30*
JASO T 903 standardMA
suggested oil**Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil (USA & Canada), or Honda 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent motorcycle oil

* For normal air temperatures. See next page for additional temperature/viscosity information.

**Suggested oils are equal in performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.

  • Your motorcycle does not need oil additives. Use the recommended oil.
  • Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. They may adversely affect clutch operation.
  • Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API ‘‘energy conserving’’ or ‘‘resource conserving’’ service label on the container. They may affect lubrication and clutch performance.

  • Do not use non-detergent, vegetable, or castor based racing oils.

Other viscosities shown in the following chart may be used when the average temperature in your riding area is within the indicated range.

JASO T 903 standard

The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines. There are two classes: MA and MB.

Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the oil container. For example, the following label shows the MA classification.

(1) oil code

(2) oil classification

Checking & Adding Oil

RIGHT SIDE

(1) oil fill cap/dipstick

(2) upper level mark

(3) lower level mark

1. Park your motorcycle on a firm, level surface.

2. Clean around the oil fill cap/dipstick (1) and nearby surfaces.

3. Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Stop the engine. Wait 2-3 minutes.

4. Unscrew and remove the oil fill cap/dipstick. Wipe it clean.

5. Hold the motorcycle upright.

6. Insert the oil fill cap/dipstick until it seats, but do not screw it in.

7. Remove the oil fill cap/dipstick and check the oil level.

• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark (2), you do not have to add oil.

• If the oil is below or near the lower level mark (3), add the recommended oil until it reaches the upper level mark. (Do not overfill.)

8. Insert the oil fill cap/dipstick and screw it in tightly.

9. Check for oil leaks.

Changing Engine Oil

UNDER ENGINE

(1) oil drain bolt

(2) sealing washer

  1. If the engine is cold, start it and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Turn the engine off. Wait 2-3 minutes for the oil to settle.
  2. Park your motorcycle on its side stand on a firm, level surface.
  3. Place a drain pan under the crankcase. 4. To drain the oil, remove the oil fill cap/ dipstick, oil drain bolt (1) and sealing washer (2).

RIGHT SIDE

(3) oil filter cover

(4) O-ring

(5) spring

(6) oil filter

(7) oil filter cover bolts

(8) “OUT-SIDE” mark

5. Remove the oil filter cover (3)/O-ring (4), spring (5) and oil filter (6) by removing the oil filter cover bolts (7).

6. Pour the drained oil into suitable container and dispose of it in an approved manner

NOTICE: Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to the environment.

7.Install the spring, and then install a new oil filter with the “OUT-SIDE” mark (8) facing out. Use only the Honda Genuine oil filter or a filter of equivalent quality specified for your model. Using the wrong Honda filter or a non-Honda filter which is not of equivalent quality may cause engine damage.

NOTICE: Improper installation of the oil filter can cause serious engine damage.

8. Replace the O-ring and apply a thin coat of engine oil to the new O-ring before installing it.

9. Install the oil filter cover/O-ring and oil filter cover bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)

10. Install a new sealing washer onto the drain bolt.

11. Tighten the oil drain bolt to the specified torque: 18 lbf·ft (24 N·m, 2.4 kgf·m)

12. Pour the recommended oil into the crankcase.

If the oil filter was replaced: 1.5 US qt (1.4 )

If the oil filter was not replaced, use approximately: 1.5 US qt (1.4 )

13. Install the oil fill cap/dipstick securely.

14. Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Stop the engine. Wait 2-3 minutes.

15 .With the motorcycle held upright on level ground, check the oil level. If needed, add oil (page 60) until it reaches the upper level mark. (Do not overfill.)

16. Check for oil leaks.

Air Cleaner

Proper air cleaner maintenance is very important for off-road vehicles. A dirty, water-soaked, worn-out, or defective air cleaner will allow dirt, dust, mud, and other impurities to pass into the engine.

Service the air cleaner more frequently if you ride in unusually wet or dusty areas. Your dealer can help you determine the correct service interval for your riding conditions.

Your motorcycle’s air cleaner has very specific performance requirements. Use a new Honda Genuine air cleaner specified for your model or an air cleaner of equal quality.

NOTICE: Using the wrong air cleaner may result in premature engine wear.

Proper air cleaner maintenance can prevent premature engine wear or damage, expensive repairs, low engine power, poor gas mileage, and spark plug fouling.

NOTICE: Improper or lack of proper air cleaner maintenance can cause poor performance and premature engine wear.

Cleaning

RIGHT SIDE

(1) screws

(2) air cleaner housing cover

1. Remove the right side cover (page 53).

2. Remove the screws (1) and air cleaner housing cover (2).

RIGHT SIDE

(3) set spring

(4) set spring holder

(5) air cleaner

3. Unhook the set spring (3), take care to avoid bending the set spring and set spring holder (4).

4. Remove the air cleaner (5).

(5) air cleaner

(6) air cleaner holder

(7) tabs

(8) air cleaner holes

5. Remove the air cleaner holder (6) from the air cleaner (5).

6. Gently wash the air cleaner in clean, non-flammable (high flash point) solvent such as kerosene – not gasoline. After cleaning, gently squeeze out the remaining solvent. Avoid twisting or wringing the air cleaner. This can tear the foam.

7. Inspect for tears or cracks in the foam or seams of the air cleaner. Replace the air cleaner if it is damaged.

8. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly before applying oil. A wet air cleaner will not fully absorb the oil.

9. Pour clean Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent (Canada: Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent) over the entire surface of the air cleaner. Use both hands to evenly spread the oil into the air cleaner. Gently squeeze out any excess oil. (To keep your hands dry, place the air cleaner in a clean plastic bag before spreading the oil into the air cleaner.)

10. Assemble the air cleaner and holder. Insert the tabs (7) in the air cleaner holes (8).

11. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.

12. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface of the air cleaner.

13. Install the air cleaner assembly by inserting the tabs (9) on the air cleaner holder into the holes (10) in the air cleaner housing. Hook the set spring. Check that the air cleaner is properly seated.

14. Install the air cleaner housing cover and screws.

15. Install the right side cover.

RIGHT SIDE

(9) tabs

(10) holes

Crankcase Breather

Service more frequently if your motorcycle is ridden in the rain or often at full throttle, or after the motorcycle is washed or overturned.

LEFT SIDE

(1) crankcase breather tube

If the drain tube overflows, the air filter may become contaminated with engine oil causing poor engine performance.

1. Place a suitable container under the crankcase breather tube.

2. Drain the deposits into a suitable container by pinching the crankcase breather tube (1).

Throttle

Throttle Freeplay

RIGHT SIDE

(1) freeplay

Inspection

Check freeplay (1).

Freeplay: 1/16 – 1/4 in (2 – 6 mm)

If necessary, adjust to the specified range.

Upper Adjustment

Minor adjustments are generally made with the upper adjuster.

RIGHT SIDE

(1) rubber dust cover

(2) upper lock nut

(3) upper adjuster

1. Pull the rubber dust cover (1) back.

2. Loosen the upper lock nut (2) on the throttle cable mechanism.

3. Turn the upper adjuster (3).

4. Tighten the lock nut. Return the dust cover to its normal position.

5. After adjustment, check for smooth rotation of the throttle grip from fully closed to fully open in all steering positions.

Lower Adjustment

The lower adjuster is used for major freeplay adjustment, such as after replacing the throttle cables or removing the throttle body. It is also used if you cannot get the proper adjustment with the upper adjuster.

LEFT SIDE

(4) lower lock nut

(5) lower adjuster

1. Loosen the lower lock nut (4).

2. Turn the lower adjuster (5).

3. Tighten the lock nut.

If you can’t get the freeplay within the specified range, contact your dealer.

Throttle Inspection

(1) throttle

(2) throttle cables

1.Check that the throttle assembly is positioned properly, and the securing bolts are tight.

2. Check for smooth rotation of the throttle (1) from fully open to fully closed in all steering positions. If there is a problem, see your dealer.

3. Inspect the condition of the throttle cables (2) from the throttle grip down to the throttle body. If the cable is kinked or chafed, have it replaced.

4. Check the cables for tension or stress in all steering positions.

5. Lubricate the cables with a commercially available cable lubricant to prevent premature rust and corrosion.

Clutch System

Clutch Freeplay

LEDT SIDE

(1) clutch lever

Inspection

Check freeplay.

Freeplay: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)

If necessary, adjust to the specified range.

Improper freeplay adjustment can cause premature clutch wear.

Upper Adjustment

Minor adjustments are generally made with the upper clutch cable adjuster.

Upper clutch assembly adjuster:

LEFT SIDE

(2) rubber dust cover

(3) upper lock nut

(4) upper clutch cable adjuster

(+) increase freeplay

(–) decrease freeplay

1. Pull the rubber dust cover (2) off.

2. Loosen the upper lock nut (3).

3. Turn the upper clutch cable adjuster (4) to obtain the specified freeplay.

4. Tighten the lock nut and check the freeplay again.

5. Return the dust cover to its normal position.

Lower Adjustment

The lower clutch cable adjuster is used if the upper clutch cable adjuster is threaded out near its limit, or the correct freeplay cannot be obtained.

1. Loosen the upper lock nut (3) and turn the upper clutch cable adjuster (4) all the way in (to provide maximum freeplay).

2. Tighten the upper lock nut and pull the rubber dust cover (2) back to its normal position.

3. Pull the cable boot (5) off the clutch cable lower adjuster (6).

4. Hold the lower clutch cable adjuster and loosen the lock nut (7).

RIGHT SIDE

(5) cable boot

(6) lower adjuster

(7) lock nut

(+) increase freeplay

(–) decrease freeplay

5. Turn the clutch cable lower adjuster to obtain the specified freeplay. Hold the lower clutch cable adjuster and tighten the lock nut. Return the cable boot to its normal position. Check the clutch lever freeplay.

6. Start the engine, pull the clutch lever in, and shift into gear. Make sure the engine does not stall and the motorcycle does not creep. Gradually release the clutch lever and open the throttle. Your motorcycle should move smoothly and accelerate gradually.

If you can’t get proper adjustment, or the clutch does not work properly, the cable may be kinked or worn, or the clutch discs may be worn.

Other Inspections & Lubrication

  • Check that the clutch lever assembly is positioned properly, and the securing bolts are tight.
  • Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of wear. If necessary, have it replaced.
  • Lubricate the clutch cable with a commercially available cable lubricant to prevent premature wear and corrosion.

Spark Plug

Spark Plug Recommendation

The recommended standard spark plug is satisfactory for most riding conditions.

Standard: LMAR7H-9DS (NGK)

Use only the recommended type of spark plugs in the recommended heat range.

NOTICE: Using spark plugs with an improper heat range can cause engine damage.

(1) center electrode

(2) side electrode

(3) spark plug gap

1. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug base.

2. Disconnect the spark plug cap.

3. Using a spark plug wrench, remove the spark plug.

4. Inspect the spark plug electrodes for wear. The center electrode (1) should have square edges. The side electrode (2) should not be eroded. The insulator should not be cracked or chipped.

5. Check the spark plug gap (3), using a wire-type feeler gauge. If adjustment is necessary, bend the side electrode carefully. The gap should be: 0.03 – 0.04 in (0.8 – 0.9 mm) Make sure the plug washer is in good condition. If you have to install a new plug, first check the gap.

6. With the plug washer attached, thread the spark plug in by hand (to prevent cross-threading).

7. Tighten the spark plug:

• If the old plug is good: 1/5 turn after it seats.

• If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to prevent loosening:

a) First, tighten the plug: 1/4 turn after it seats.

b)Then loosen the plug.

c) Next, tighten the plug again: 1/5 turn after it seats.

NOTICE: An improperly tightened spark plug can damage the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may be damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may be damaged. 8. Reinstall the spark plug cap. Take care to avoid pinching any cables or wires.

Spark Arrester

The spark arrester must be serviced every 100 operating hours to maintain its efficiency.

Regular servicing prevents carbon buildup (which can diminish engine performance) and also complies with USDA regulations for regular maintenance to assure proper function. The spark arrester prevents random sparks from the combustion process in your engine from reaching the environment.

RIGHT REAR

(1) bolts

(2) tail cover

(3) spark arrester

(4) gasket

(5) muffler

1. Allow the engine and muffler to cool.

2. Remove the bolts (1) and tail cover (2), the spark arrester (3), and the gasket (4) from the muffler (5).

3. Use a brush to remove carbon deposits from the spark arrester screen (6). Be careful to avoid damaging the spark arrester screen. The spark arrester must be free of breaks and holes. Replace, if necessary.

(6) spark arrester scree

4. Install the new gasket, the spark arrester and tail cover, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)

Suspension

Loose, worn, or damaged suspension components may adversely affect the handling and stability of your motorcycle. If any suspension components appear worn or damaged, see your dealer for further inspection. Your dealer is qualified to determine whether or not replacement parts or repairs are needed.

Front Suspension Inspection

1. Check fork operation. Pull the front brake lever in, to lock the brake. Then pump up and down on the fork legs several times. The suspension should function smoothly. There should be no oil leakage.

FRONT

(1) mounting bolts

2. Check the security of all handlebar and fork mounting bolts (1). If any front suspension components appear worn or damaged, see your dealer for further inspection.

Rear Suspension Inspection

RIGHT SIDE

(1) swingarm bearing

(2) shock absorber attachment points

(3) suspension linkage attachment points

LEFT SIDE

(1) swingarm bearing

1. Place the motorcycle on a maintenance stand. Push hard against the side of the rear wheel and feel for any freeplay which indicates worn swingarm bearings (1).

2. Check that the fasteners for the shock absorber attachment points (2) and rear suspension linkage attachment points (3) are secure.

3. Check for oil leaks in the shock absorber. If any rear suspension components appear worn or damaged, see your dealer for further inspection.

Brakes

The front brake is the hydraulic disc type. As the brake pads wear, the brake fluid level will drop. A leak in the system will also cause the level to drop.

Frequently inspect the system to ensure there are no fluid leaks. Periodically inspect the brake fluid level and the brake pads for wear.

If the front brake lever or brake pedal freeplay does not feel within the normal range while riding, check the brake pads. If they are not worn beyond the recommended limit (page 85), there is probably air in the brake system. See your dealer to have the air bled from the system.

Front Brake Lever Adjustment

RIGHT HANDLEBAR

(1) rubber dust cover

(2) lock nut

(3) front brake lever

(4) adjuster

Never use adjusters other than those designed for this motorcycle. Install a new adjuster from the lever side with the lock nut under the head of the adjuster.

1. Pull the rubber dust cover (1) back.

2. Loosen the lock nut (2).

3. To position the front brake lever (3) farther away from the handgrip, turn the adjuster (4) clockwise. To position the front brake lever closer to the handgrip, turn the adjuster counterclockwise.

4. Tighten the lock nut. Return the dust cover to its normal position.

5. Apply the brake, release it, then spin the wheel and check that it rotates freely. Repeat this procedure several times.

Fluid Level Inspection

Front Brake Fluid Level

RIGHT HANDLEBAR

(1) LWR mark

With the motorcycle in an upright position, check the fluid level. It should be above the LWR mark (1). If the level is at or below the LWR mark, check the brake pads for wear.

Rear Brake Fluid Level

RIGHT SIDE

(1) LOWER mark

With the motorcycle in an upright position, check the fluid level.

It should be above the LOWER mark (1). If the level is at or below the LOWER mark, check the brake pads for wear.

Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads are not worn, have your brake system inspected for leaks.

The recommended brake fluid is Honda DOT 4 brake fluid from a sealed container, or an equivalent.

NOTICE: Brake fluid can damage plastic and painted surfaces. Handle with care.

Wipe up spills immediately. Avoid brake fluid contact with skin or eyes. If it comes in contact with your eyes, wash them out with clean water and immediately call a doctor. If it comes in contact with your skin, wash with clean water and, if necessary, call a doctor.

Other Inspections

• Make sure there are no fluid leaks.

• Check for deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.

Brake Pad Wear

Brake pad wear depends on the severity of usage, the type of riding, and riding area conditions. (Generally, the pads will wear faster on wet and dirty riding terrain.) Inspect the pads at each regular maintenance interval.

Check the cutouts (2) in each pad. If either pad is worn to the cutout, replace both pads as a set. See your dealer for this service.

LEFT FRONT

(1) front brake caliper

(2) cutouts

RIGHT REAR

(1) rear brake caliper

(2) cutouts

Other Inspections

Check that the front lever and rear brake pedal assembly are positioned properly, and the securing bolts are tight.

More About: Brake Fluid

Brake fluid should be added and replaced by your dealer.

The recommended brake fluid is Honda DOT 4 Brake Fluid, or any brake fluid of equal quality and performance. Use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container.

Wheels

Keeping the wheels true (round) and maintaining correct spoke tension is critical to safe motorcycle operation. During the first 100 miles (150 km), spokes will loosen more rapidly due to the initial seating of the parts. Excessively loose spokes may result in instability at high speeds and the possible loss of control. Neglecting this maintenance may also cause rim or spoke damage. It’s also important that the rim locks are secure to prevent tire slippage.

It is not necessary to remove the wheels to perform the recommended service in the Maintenance Schedule. However, information for wheel removal is provided for emergency situations.

Wheel Rims & Spokes

REAR

(1) wheel rim

(2) spoke

(3) rim lock

1. Inspect the wheel rims (1) and spokes (2) for damage.

2. Tighten any loose spokes or rim locks (3).

3. Rotate the wheel slowly to see if it appears to ‘‘wobble.’’ If it does, the rim is out of round or not ‘‘true.’’ If the wobble is noticeable, see your dealer for inspection.

Front Wheel Removal

RIGHT FRONT

(1) axle holder nuts

(2) front axle shaft

Removal

1. Raise the front wheel off the ground by placing a maintenance stand or support block under the engine. Secure the rear of the motorcycle with tie-down straps.

2. Loosen the axle holder nuts (1).

3. Unscrew and remove the front axle shaft (2). Remove the wheel and side collars. Avoid depressing the brake lever when the wheel is off the motorcycle. This will force the caliper pistons out of the cylinders. The result will be loss of brake fluid. If this occurs, the brake system will require service. See your dealer for this service.

Avoid getting grease, oil, or dirt on the disc or pad surfaces. Any contamination can cause poor brake performance or rapid pad wear after reassembly.

Installation

1. Installation is the reverse order of removal. Install the side collars into the wheel in their original locations. Carefully fit the brake disc between the pads to avoid scratching them.

2. Insert the front axle shaft from the right side, through the axle holder, wheel hub and left fork leg.

3. Tighten the front axle shaft to the specified torque: 44 lbf·ft (59 N·m, 6.0 kgf·m)

4. First tighten the upper axle holder nuts until lightly seated, then tighten the lower axle holder nuts until lightly seated.

5. Operate the front brake and pump the fork several times.

6. First tighten the upper axle holder nuts to the specified torque, then tighten the lower axle holder nuts to the same torque: 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)

7. After installing the wheel, apply the brake several times and then check if the wheel rotates freely. Recheck the wheel if the brake drags or if the wheel does not rotate freely. Check front brake adjustment

If a torque wrench was not used to install the wheel, see your dealer as soon as possible to verify proper assembly. Improper assembly may lead to loss of braking capacity.

Rear Wheel Removal

RIGHT REAR

LEFT REAR

(1) rear axle nut

(2) rear axle shaft

(3) chain adjusters

Removal

1. Raise the rear wheel off the ground by placing a maintenance stand or support block under the engine. Secure the front of the motorcycle with tie-down straps.

2. Loosen the rear axle nut (1) while holding the rear axle shaft (2).

3. Turn both chain adjusters (3) so the rear wheel can be moved all the way forward for maximum drive chain slack.

4. Remove the rear axle nut. Push the wheel forward and derail the drive chain from the driven sprocket.

5. Remove the rear axle, chain adjusters, rear wheel and side collars. Avoid depressing the brake pedal when the wheel is off the motorcycle. This will force the caliper piston out of the cylinder. The result will be a loss of brake fluid. If this occurs, the brake system will require service. See your dealer for this service. Avoid getting grease, oil, or dirt on the disc or pad surfaces. Any contamination can cause poor brake performance or pad wear after reassembly

RIGHT REAR

(4) lug

(5) caliper bracket

(6) slot

Installation

1. Installation is the reverse order of removal. Install the side collars into the wheel in their original locations. Carefully fit the brake disc between the pads to avoid scratching them. Make sure the lug (4) on the caliper bracket (5) is located in the slot (6) in the swingarm. Check that the chain adjusters are installed properly.

2. Adjust the drive chain.

3. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified torque: 80 lbf·ft (108 N·m, 11.0 kgf·m)

4. After installing the wheel, apply the brake pedal several times, then check if the wheel rotates freely. Recheck the wheel if the brake drags or if the wheel does not rotate freely.

If a torque wrench was not used to install the wheel, see your dealer as soon as possible to verify proper assembly. Improper assembly may lead to loss of braking capacity

Tires & Tubes

To safely operate your motorcycle, the tires must be the proper type (off-road) and size, in good condition with adequate tread, and correctly inflated.

WARNING: Using tires that are excessively worn or improperly inflated can cause a crash in which you can be seriously hurt or killed. Follow all instructions in this owner’s manual regarding tire inflation and maintenance.

The following pages give detailed information on how and when to check your air pressure, how to inspect your tires for wear and damage, and our recommendations on tire repair and replacement.

Air Pressure

Properly inflated tires provide the best combination of handling, tread life, and riding comfort. Generally, underinflated tires wear unevenly, adversely affect handling, and are more likely to fail from being overheated. Underinflated tires can also cause wheel damage in rocky terrain. Overinflated tires make your motorcycle ride harshly, are more prone to damage from surface hazards, and wear unevenly.

Make sure the valve stem caps are secure. If necessary, install new caps.

Always check air pressure when your tires are ‘‘cold.’’ If you check air pressure when your tires are ‘‘warm’’ – even if your motorcycle has only been ridden for a few miles – the readings will be higher. If you let air out of warm tires to match the recommended cold pressures, the tires will be underinflated.

The correct ‘‘cold’’ tire pressures are:

Front15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm2)
Rear15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm2)

If you decide to adjust tire pressures for a particular riding condition, make changes a little at a time.

Inspection

A flat tire or blowout is inconvenient and may even cause a crash. Take time to inspect your tires and wheels before you ride.

(1) tread depth

  • Inspect carefully for bumps or bulges in the side of the tire or the tread. Replace any tire that has a bump or bulge.
  • Look closely for cuts, slits, or cracks in the tires. Replace a tire if you can see fabric or cord.
  • Check for rocks or other objects embedded in the tire or tread. Remove any objects.
  • Measure tread depth (1). Replace the tire before depth at the center reaches 0.12 in (3 mm), or any time you notice a reduction in traction.
  • Check the position of both valve stems. A tilted valve stem indicates the tube is slipping inside the tire or the tire is slipping on the rim. See your dealer.

Tube Replacement

If a tube is punctured or damaged, you should replace it as soon as possible. A repaired tube may not have the same reliability as a new one, and it may fail while you are riding.

Use a replacement tube equivalent to the original.

We recommend that tubes be replaced by your dealer. Replacing a tube requires removing and reinstalling the wheel.

Tire Replacement

The tires that came on your motorcycle were designed to provide a good combination of handling, braking, durability, and comfort across a broad range of riding conditions.

WARNING: Installing improper tires on your motorcycle can affect handling and stability. This can cause a crash in which you can be seriously hurt or killed. Always use the size and type of tires recommended in this owner’s manual.

Front80/100-21 51R NHS
Rear100/100-18 59R NHS
Typebias-ply, tube
  • Use a replacement tire equivalent to the original.
  • Replace the tube any time you replace a tire. The old tube will probably be stretched and, if installed in a new tire, could fail.
  • Have the wheel balanced after a new tire is installed.
  • We recommend that tires be replaced by your dealer.

Side Stand

LEFT SIDE

(1) side stand spring

1. Check the side stand spring (1) for damage and loss of tension.

2. Check the side stand assembly for freedom of movement.

If the side stand is stiff or squeaky, clean the pivot area and lubricate the pivot bolt with clean engine oil.

Drive Chain

The service life of the chain depends on proper lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance can cause premature wear or damage to the drive chain or sprockets.

Under severe usage, or when the motorcycle is ridden in unusually dusty or muddy areas, more frequent maintenance will be necessary.

Before servicing your drive chain, turn the engine OFF, lower the side stand, and check that your transmission is in neutral.

Inspection

LEFT SIDE

(1) drive chain

1. Check slack in the lower drive chain (1) run midway between the sprockets. Drive chain slack should allow the following vertical movement by hand: 1 3/16 – 1 9/16 in (30 – 40 mm)

2. Check drive chain slack at several points along the chain. The slack should remain constant. If it isn’t, some links may be kinked and binding. Lubricating the chain will often eliminate binding and kinking.

NOTICE: Excessive chain slack may allow the drive chain to damage the engine cases.

3. Inspect the drive chain for:

• damaged rollers

• loose pins

• dry or rusted links

• kinked or binding links

• excessive wear

• damaged or missing O-rings

Replace the drive chain if it has damaged rollers, loose pins, or kinks that cannot be freed. Lubricate the drive chain if it appears dry or shows signs of rust. Lubricate any kinked or binding links and work them free. Adjust chain slack if needed.

4. Check the chain slider (2), chain guide slider (3) and chain roller (4) for wear. If the chain slider is worn to the bottom of the cutout (5), have your dealer replace the slider. Replace the chain guide slider if the chain is visible through the wear inspection window (6). Replace the chain roller if it is smaller than 0.7 in (18 mm).

LEFT SIDE

(2) chain slider

(3) chain guide slider

(4) chain roller

(5) cutout

(6) wear inspection window

5. Replace the drive chain if chain slack is excessive when the rear axle is moved to the farthest limit of adjustment. Excessive slack indicates the chain is worn beyond its service limit.

To check the chain’s service limit, measure the distance between a span of 41 pins, from pin center to pin center. If the distance exceeds the service limit, the drive chain is worn out and should be replaced.

Measure a span of 41 pins

New Chain: 25.0 in (635 mm)

Service Limit: 25.1 in (638 mm)

This motorcycle has a staked master link drive chain which requires a special tool for cutting and staking. Do not use an ordinary master link with this chain.

6. Inspect the front and rear sprocket teeth for excessive wear or damage. If necessary, have your dealer replace a worn sprocket.

NOTICE: Use of a new chain with worn sprockets will cause rapid chain wear.

Adjustment

LEFT REAR

RIGHT REAR

(1) rear axle shaft

(2) rear axle nut

(3) chain adjusters

(4) index marks

(5) stopper pins

1. Hold the rear axle shaft (1) and loosen the rear axle nut (2).

2. Turn both the right and left chain adjusters (3) equally to increase or decrease chain slack.

3. After adjusting, be sure the same adjuster index marks (4) align with the stopper pins (5) on both sides of the swingarm.

4. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified torque: 80 lbf·ft (108 N·m, 11.0 kgf·m)

5. Recheck drive chain slack.

If a torque wrench is not used for this installation, see your dealer as soon as possible to verify proper assembly

Lubrication

Lubricate every 300 miles (500 km) or sooner if chain appears dry.

The O-rings in this chain can be damaged by steam cleaning, high pressure washers, and certain solvents.

Recommended lubricant: Pro Honda HP Chain Lube or equivalent.

Commercial chain lubricants not designed for motorcycle drive chains may contain solvents which could damage the O-rings.

Removal, Cleaning & Replacement

Your motorcycle has an endless (riveted master link) type chain. It should only be removed or replaced by your dealer.

When the drive chain becomes extremely dirty, it should be cleaned prior to lubrication.

1. Clean the side surfaces of the chain with a dry cloth. Do not brush the rubber O-rings. Brushing will damage them. Use of a solvent may also damage the O-rings.

2. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or damage. Replace the drive chain if it has damaged rollers, loose fitting links, or otherwise appears unserviceable. Replacement chain: DID 520VD2

3. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear or damage. We recommend replacing the sprocket whenever a new chain is installed.

4. Lubricate the drive chain.

Battery

Your motorcycle has a maintenance-free type battery. You do not have to check the battery electrolyte level or add distilled water as you would with a conventional-type battery.

NOTICE: Your battery is a maintenance-free type and can be permanently damaged if the cap strip is removed.

Electrical accessories use current from the battery, even when the ignition is OFF. Limited operation also allows the battery to discharge. If you have electrical accessories on your motorcycle or do not ride frequently, we recommend that you charge the battery frequently.

If you do not expect to ride your motorcycle for at least two weeks, we recommend you remove the battery, or at least disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first).

If you plan to store your motorcycle, see Battery Storage, page 106.

If your battery seems weak and/or is leaking electrolyte (causing slow starting or other electrical problems), see your dealer.

WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds. Wash hands after handling.

Battery Storage

If you plan to store your motorcycle, we recommend you remove the battery and store it where it can be charged at least every 30 days to maintain its service life.

If you do not remove the battery, we recommend disconnecting the battery cables (negative cable first).

You will get the best storage results from removing the battery and slow charging it every 30 days.

Before you remove the battery, be sure to read all the information that follows, as well as the information on the battery label.

WARNING: The battery gives off explosive hydrogen gas during normal operation. A spark or flame can cause the battery to explode with enough force to kill or seriously hurt you. Wear protective clothing and a face shield, or have a skilled mechanic do the battery maintenance.

The battery is located in the battery compartment behind the left side cover.

Removal

1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.

2. Remove the left side cover

LEFT SIDE

(1) battery holder bolt

(2) negative (–) terminal

(3) positive (+) terminal

(4) battery holder

(5) battery

3. Remove the battery holder bolt (1).

4. Disconnect the negative (–) terminal (2) from the battery.

5. Disconnect the positive (+) terminal (3) from the battery.

6. Raise the battery holder (4), then remove the battery (5) taking care not to drop the terminal nuts.

7. Charge the battery (see following section), unless you have been riding regularly.

8. Store your battery in an easy-to-reach location off the floor, in an area protected from freezing temperatures and direct sunlight.

9. Clean the battery box after removing the battery for storage.

10. Slow charge the battery (see following section) once every 30 days.

Installation

1. Reinstall in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the positive (+) terminal first, then the negative (–) terminal.

2. Check all bolts and other fasteners are secure.

Battery Charging

(1) charger

Be sure to read the information that came with your battery charger and follow the instructions on the battery. Improper charging may damage the battery.

We recommend using a charger (1) designed specifically for your Honda, which can be purchased from your dealer. These units can be left connected for long periods without risking damage to the battery. However, do not intentionally leave the charger connected longer than the time period recommended in the charger’s instructions.

Avoid using an automotive-type battery charger. An automotive charger can overheat a motorcycle battery and cause permanent damage.

Appearance Care

Frequent cleaning and polishing will keep your Honda looking newer longer. Frequent cleaning also identifies you as an owner who values your motorcycle. A clean motorcycle is also easier to inspect and service.

While you’re cleaning, be sure to look for damage, wear, and gasoline or oil leaks.

General Recommendations

• To clean your motorcycle, you may use:

─ water

─ a mild, neutral detergent and water

─ a mild spray and wipe cleaner/polisher

─ a mild spray and rinse cleaner/degreaser and water

• Avoid products that contain harsh detergents or chemical solvents that could damage the metal, paint, and plastic on your motorcycle.

• If your motorcycle is still warm from recent operation, give the engine and exhaust system time to cool off.

• We recommend the use of a low pressure garden hose to wash your motorcycle. High pressure washers (like those at coin-operated car washes) can damage certain parts of your motorcycle. If you use a high pressure washer, avoid spraying the following areas:

wheel hubs

muffler outlet

area under seat

engine stop button

brake master cylinder

under fuel tank

drive chain

throttle body

NOTICE: High pressure water (or air) can damage certain parts of your motorcycle.

Washing Your Motorcycle with a Mild Detergent

1. Rinse your motorcycle thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.

2. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild, neutral detergent, such as dish washing liquid, or a product made especially for washing motorcycles or automobiles.

3. Wash your motorcycle with a sponge or a soft towel. As you wash, check for heavy grime. If necessary, use a mild cleaner/ degreaser to remove the grime.

4. After washing, rinse your motorcycle thoroughly with plenty of clean water to remove any residue. Detergent residue can corrode alloy parts.

5. Dry your motorcycle with a chamois or a soft towel. Leaving water on the surface to air dry can cause dulling and water spots. As you dry, inspect for chips and scratches.

6. Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.

7. Start the engine and let it idle for several minutes. The engine heat will help dry moist areas.

8. As a precaution, ride at a slow speed and apply the brakes several times. This will help dry the brakes and restore normal braking performance.

Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Maintenance

When the exhaust pipe and muffler are painted, do not use a commercially available abrasive kitchen cleaning compound. Use a neutral detergent to clean the painted surface on the exhaust pipe and muffler. If you are not sure if your exhaust pipe and muffler are painted, contact your dealer.

Clean the Matte Painted Surface

Use a soft cloth or sponge, plenty of water, and a mild detergent to clean the matte paint. Dry with a soft, clean cloth.

Do not use polishing compounds or wax containing polishing compounds. These can damage or discolor the paint.

To keep your Honda looking new, clean and polish it frequently.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

General Guidelines

If something goes wrong during a ride, the first thing to do is stop as soon as you safely can. Do not continue riding if you have a flat tire, or you hear an unusual noise, or your motorcycle just doesn’t feel right. If you continue riding, you could cause more damage and endanger your own safety.

After a stop, take time to assess the situation. Carefully inspect your motorcycle to identify the problem, then consider your options before you decide what to do.

If a problem is relatively minor and you have the tools, supplies, and skills to make a permanent repair, you may be able to fix it on the trail and continue riding. Or, you may be able to make a temporary repair that allows you to slowly ride back to your base where you can make a permanent repair or get help.

When a problem is more serious – or you don’t have the tools, supplies, experience, or time to deal with it – you need to choose the safest way to get yourself and your motorcycle back to base. For example, if you are close enough, you (or you and another person) might be able to push it back.

Whatever the problem, the most important rules are:

  • Always put personal safeIf the problem is relatively minor and you have the tools, supplies, and skills to make a temporary repair, be sure to have permanent repairs made as soon as possible.
  • Do not continue riding if you are hurt or your motorcycle is not in safe riding condition.

Additional recommendations for specific problems follow.ty first.

If Your Engine Quits or Won’t Start

Proper operation and maintenance can prevent starting and engine performance problems. In many cases, the cause of the problem may be a simple operational oversight.

If you have a problem starting the engine – or experience poor engine performance – the following information may help you. If you can’t correct the problem, see your dealer.

If your motorcycle won’t start, listen as you press the start button. If you don’t hear the starter motor turning, refer to the Starter motor doesn’t operate symptom. If you can hear the starter motor working normally, refer to the Starter motor works, but the engine won’t start symptom.

SYMPTOM: Starter motor doesn’t operate.
POSSIBLE CAUSEWHAT TO DO
ignition switch OFFTurn the ignition switch ON.
transmission not in neutralShift into neutral
blown fuseReplace with a new fuse of the same rating
battery lead looseTighten the battery lead.
low (or dead) batteryCharge the battery. If charging doesn’t help, see your dealer.
faulty starter motorIf all possible causes are negative, the starter motor may be faulty. See your dealer.
SYMPTOM: Starter motor works, but the engine won’t start.
out of fuelFill the fuel tank.
flooded engineSee Flooded Engine
loose or unconnected spark plug capInstall the spark plug cap securely. If the engine still won’t start, see your dealer. loose battery cables Tighten the battery term
loose battery cablesTighten the battery terminal bolts
weak batteryCharge the battery. If charging doesn’t help, see your dealer
SYMPTOM: Engine starts, but runs poorly
idles roughly, too fast, stallsSee your dealer.
runs erratically, misfiresSee your dealer.
blubbers (rich fuel mixture)See your dealer.
sooty exhaust (rich fuel mixture)See your dealer.
detonates or pings under loadIf applicable, switch to the recommended octane gasoline or change your brand of gasoline. If the problem persists, see your dealer.
afterfires (backfires)See your dealer.
pre-ignition (runs on after ignition switched OFF)See your dealer.

If You Have a Flat Tire

How you handle a flat tire on the trail depends on how serious the tube or tire damage is, and what tools and supplies you have with you.

If you have a slow leak or a minor puncture, there are two ways to try making a temporary repair:

  • Use an aerosol tire sealer to seal the puncture and inflate the tube. (This can be done without removing the tire or wheel.)
  • Use a tube patch kit to repair the puncture. (This requires removing the tire.)

If the leak is more serious, or a temporary repair doesn’t hold, the tube must be replaced. The tire will also need to be replaced if it is damaged (page 96). Replacing a tube or tire involves removing and re-installing the wheel.

If you are unable to repair a flat tire on the trail, you will need to push the motorcycle back to your base or send for help. We strongly recommend that you do not try to ride with a flat tire. The motorcycle will be hard to handle, and if the tire comes off the rim, it may lock up the wheel and cause you to crash.

WARNING: Riding your motorcycle with a temporary tire repair can be risky. If the temporary repair fails, you can crash and be seriously injured or killed. If you must ride with a temporary tire repair, ride slowly and carefully until the tire is permanently repaired or replaced.

If a Fuse Blows

All of the electrical circuits on your motorcycle have fuses to protect them from damage caused by excess current flow (short circuit or overload).

If something electrical on your motorcycle stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse.

Check the fuses before looking elsewhere for another possible cause of the problem. Replace any blown fuse and check component operation.

The main fuse and sub fuse are located behind the left side cover.

Recommended Fuses

main fuse: 10 A

sub fuse: 7.5 A

1. To prevent an accidental short circuit, turn the ignition switch OFF before checking or replacing the fuse.

2. For access the main fuse (1) and sub fuse (2), remove the left side cover (page 53).

Main Fuse Access:

3. Remove the starter magnetic switch (3) from the ribs (4) of the battery box.

4. Disconnect the wire connector (5) of the starter magnetic switch. 5. Pull the fuse out. If the main fuse is blown (6), install the spare main fuse (7).

6. Reconnect the wire connector.

7. Install the starter magnetic switch.

LEFT SIDE

(1) main fuse

(3) starter magnetic switch

(4) ribs

(5) wire connector

(6) blown fuse

(7) spare main fuse

Sub Fuse Access:

8. Remove the fuse case (8) from the rib (9) of the battery box.

9. Open the fuse case cover and pull the sub fuse out. If the fuse is blown (10), replace it with a spare fuse (11).

10. Install the left side cover. If you do not have a replacement fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating

NOTICE: Replacing a f use with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chance of damage to the electrical system.

(2) sub fuse

(8) fuse case

(9) rib

(10) blown fuse

(11) spare fuse

If You Crash

Personal safety is your first priority after a crash. If you or anyone else has been injured, take time to assess the severity of the injuries and whether it is safe to continue riding. If you cannot ride safely, send someone for help. Do not ride if you will risk further injury.

If you decide that you are capable of riding safely, first evaluate the condition of your motorcycle. If the engine is still running, turn it off and look it over carefully; inspect it for fluid leaks, check the tightness of critical nuts and bolts, and secure such parts as the handlebar, control levers, brakes, and wheels.

If there is minor damage, or you are unsure about possible damage but decide to try riding the motorcycle back to your base, ride slowly and cautiously.

Sometimes, crash damage is hidden or not immediately apparent. When you get home, thoroughly check your motorcycle and correct any problems you find. Also, be sure to have your dealer check the frame and suspension after any serious crash.

If You Lose Your Key

Be sure to record the key number provided with the original keys. Store the spare key and recorded key number in a safe location. You’ll need this number to have a duplicate key made.

If you lose your key and aren’t carrying a duplicate, either get your spare or have one made. If you don’t know your key number, call the dealer where you purchased your Honda. They may have it listed in their records. If they don’t, transport your motorcycle to them or the nearest dealer. The dealer will probably have to remove the ignition switch assembly to find the key number so they can make a key for you.

If a Component Fails

The drive chain, brake lever or pedal, control cables, and other components can be damaged as you ride in dense brush or over rocky terrain. Making a trailside repair depends on how serious the damage is and what tools and supplies you have with you.

  • If the chain breaks or does other damage when it comes off, you may not be able to make a trailside repair.
  • If any component of the front brake system is damaged, you may be able to ride carefully back to your base using the rear brake for slowing or stopping.
  • If the clutch lever breaks, you may be able to temporarily switch the front brake lever to the clutch side, then ride carefully back to base using the rear brake for slowing or stopping.
  • If you damage a throttle cable or other critical component, your motorcycle may be unsafe to ride. Carefully assess the damage and make any repairs that you can. But if there is any doubt, it’s best to be conservative and safe.

If Your Battery Is Low (or Dead)

Jump starting is not recommended, especially if you use an automobile battery. The greater amperage of an automobile battery when the car engine is running can damage your motorcycle’s electrical system.

Bump starting is also not recommended.

If you can’t charge the battery or it appears unable to hold a charge, contact your dealer.

If Unstable Engine Operation Occurs Intermittently

If the fuel pump filter is clogged, unstable engine operation will occur intermittently while riding.

Even if this symptom occurs, you can continue to ride your motorcycle.

If unstable engine operation occurs even if sufficient fuel is available, have your motorcycle inspected by your dealer as soon as possible.



See other models: CR-V 2022 2022 TRX90X 2022 TRX420TE1 FOURTRAX RANCHER TRX520FM1 4x4 2022 FOURTRAX FOREMAN RUBICON

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Honda CRF250F Questions and Answers


#1 How can I get a replacement ignition key?
You can order replacement ignition keys through your local authorized Honda Powersports dealer. The dealer will need your key code to cut a new ignition key. If you do not have the key code, we first recommend contacting your original selling dealer since they may have recorded this information at the time of sale. American Honda Powersports division is unable to provide a key code that corresponds with your VIN. If you are still unable to find your key code, please contact your local authorized Honda Powersports dealer for further assistance in obtaining a replacement key.

#2 What does my warranty cover?
Your warranty covers the repair or replacement, at American Honda's option, any part which is defective in material or factory workmanship under normal use for the applicable warranty period. For further details please see your warranty booklet. (Competition models are excluded from warranty coverage.)

#3 Is my factory warranty transferable?
Yes, the warranty goes with the product. Subsequent owners should present proof of ownership to any authorized Honda dealer to update our records.