Woodstock Soapstone 205 FIREVIEW WOOD STOVE Wood Stove User Manual

WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE STOVES

OWNER’S MANUAL

FIREVIEW

MODEL 205

Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.

66 Airpark Road, West Lebanon, NH 03784

Toll Free 1-800-866-4344 • www.woodstove.com

Rev 02/20

Tested To UL 1482-2011 7th Edition

Listed By PFS Corporation

Tested and Listed by

OUR PROMISE

We are sure you will enjoy your new stove. During the first six months

that you own it, test its performance and experience the comfortable

warmth of soapstone. If you are not thoroughly delighted with the

beauty, quality, and energy efficiency of your stove, you may return it

for a full refund, including the cost of return freight. This is the best

consumer protection plan in the industry.

EPA APPROVAL

This Manual describes the installation and operation of: the Model 205

Fireview Catalytic Soapstone Stove.

Model 205 Fireview Catalytic Soapstone Stove meets the U.S.

Environmental Protection Agency’s emission limits for wood heaters

sold after May 15, 2020. Under specific test conditions, this stove has

been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from 7,606 to 46,460

BTU/hr., and average emissions of 1.12 grams/hr.

The Fireview model contains a catalytic combustor, which needs period-

ic inspection and replacement for proper operation. It is against the law

to operate this woodstove in a manner inconsistent with the operating

instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic element is deactivated or

removed.

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that

must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting

or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with

operating instructions in this manual.

LISTING TO UL #1482

Model 205 Fireview Catalytic Soapstone Stove has been tested to UL

Standard #1482 7th edition 2011 for safety, and is listed by PFS

Corporation. UL Standard #1482 is the standard for testing solid fuel

heating appliances which is universally recognized by all national build-

ing regulatory agencies (SBCC, BOCA, ICBO) and individual states.

Please Note: Tested and Listed for US installations only

LIMITED WARRANTY

Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove will be carefully inspected before ship-

ment. We will replace any part which is defective in material or work-

manship, free of cost, for a period one year from the date of purchase. If

a defect is discovered, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company,

Inc. for instructions regarding return or replacement of the defective

part.

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR

WARRANTY

The catalytic combustor in your Fireview Woodstove is fully warranted

for three years from the date of purchase against any defect in work-

manship or materials that prevent the combustor from functioning

when installed and operated properly. The catalytic combustor is addi-

tionally warranted for three years from the date of purchase for any

deterioration in the stainless steel substrate material. For instructions

regarding return or replacement of the catalytic combustor, please con-

tact:

Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.

66 Airpark Road

West Lebanon, NH 03768

Phone: 1-800-866-4344 • Web: www.woodstove.com

Tested and Listed by

MODEL 205 FIREVIEW CATALYTIC

TABLE OF CONTENTS

WARRANTY INFORMATION/CERTIFICATIONS............ Inside Cover

EPA Certification, UL Listing, Warranty, Catalytic Combustor Warranty

INSTALLATION......................................... .............. 1-11

Installation, Location, Chimneys, Fireplace Installation, Clearance Table, Wall

Protection, Floor Protection, Mobile Home Installation

OPERATION............................................................12-16

Setting up Your Stove, Seasoning Your Stove, Starting a Fire and Establishing

Draft, Engaging the Catalytic Combustor, Reloading & Overnight Burning, Ash

Removal, Surface Thermometer, Overfiring, Daily Use, The Fall Away Handle,

Firewood

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR........................................ 17-20

How your Combustor Works, Inspection & Cleaning, Replacement, Catalytic

Probe Thermometer, Frequently Asked Questions, Catalytic Combustor

Warranty Information

MAINTENANCE..................................................... 21-23

Stove, Stone & Glass Cleaning, Gasket Replacement, Routine Checks, End Of

Season Maintenance, Creosote

TROUBLESHOOTING............................................... 24-26

SAFETY................................................................. 27-28

Overview, Installation, Smoke & The Chimney, Heat, Ash Removal,

Precautions, Emergency Procedures

PARTS LIST & DIAGRAMS......................................... 29-31

SPECIFICATIONS................................................... Back Cover

INSTALLATION

For over two centuries, New Englanders have heated their homes with soapstone stoves. A properly installed and

operated soapstone stove will warm your home and delight your eye for a lifetime.

Read this entire manual carefully. It explains how to install your Woodstock Soapstone Fireview Wood Stove

safely and how to operate it correctly and efficiently. The clearances and procedures recommended in this guide are

in compliance with the recommendations of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), the Underwriters

Laboratories (UL), and the U. S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). You may feel some of them are very

stringent, but they should be followed. They were designed to protect you, your home, and the environment.

Improper installations are a major cause of serious fires. Failure to follow instructions may result in property

damage, bodily injury, or death.

Before installing a woodstove, check your local building codes and any requirements established by your insurance

company.

You may need a local building permit to install your stove. Any changes in your home must comply with building

codes. If the codes have not been fully updated, you may want to check with the Building Inspection Department or

your local Fire Department. A qualified stove installer should be aware of any changes and updates to local and state

codes and may be best suited to handle your installation work.

Many chimney sweeps are qualified installers. If you are unfamiliar with sweeps or need to locate a certified sweep

in your area, you can check listings at www.csia.org (Chimney Safety Institute of America). Builders and contractors

are another option. In some cases, homeowners install their own stoves. Before installing your stove, please review

carefully the stove installation, clearance, and safety information in this manual. Woodstock Soapstone has NFI

(National Fireplace Institute) certified woodburning specialists on staff and available to answer any questions you

may have about your installation. If you have questions, please call us toll free at 1-800-866-4344.

You should notify your insurance company that you are using a woodstove. Before you light your first fire, have a

local building inspector and your insurance representative inspect, and approve in writing, your installation.

LOCATION

A stove which is centrally located will heat the greatest area of your home. Heat

should be able to circulate easily into nearby rooms. Placing your stove near an open

stairway or register in the floor will help transfer heat to other rooms.

Other installation considerations are:

•Clearance to Combustibles

•Adequate Space for Wood Loading and Ash Removal

•Room Traffic Patterns

Most people install their stove in a room they use frequently where they can enjoy the

beauty and comfort of the stove. This also helps in ease of monitoring and reloading

the stove as needed. A well planned placement will enhance your enjoyment of your

stove and may save installation costs.

We do not recommend installing a high efficiency stove in an unfinished basement.

Heat loss in an unfinished basement is significant, and it is common for high efficiency

stovs to be overfired in order to compensate for the heat loss in unfinished basement walls. For a full article on

Basement Installations, visit www.woodstove.com or call 1-800-866-4344.

The best location for a chimney and

woodstove is in the center of the

house. The chimney will be

warmer, draft will be better, and

radiant heat will be distributed

more evenly.

ALCOVE INSTALLATIONS

THE MODEL 205 FIREVIEW WOOD STOVE IS NOT

APPROVED FOR AN ALCOVE

INSTALLATION. AN ALCOVE IS DESCRIBED AS AN AREA LESS THAN 512 CUBIC FEET,

WHICH IS EQUIVALENT TO AN 8’X8’X8’ SPACE.

For over two centuries, New Englanders have heated

their homes with soapstone stoves. A properly installed

and operated soapstone stove will warm your home and

delight your eye for a lifetime.

Read this entire manual carefully. It explains how to

install your Woodstock Soapstone Fireview Wood Stove

safely and how to operate it correctly and efficiently.

The clearances and procedures recommended in this

guide are in compliance with the recommendations of

the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), the

Underwriters Laboratories (UL), and the U. S.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). You may feel

some of them are very stringent, but they should be

followed. They were designed to protect you, your

home, and the environment. Improper installations are

a major cause of serious fires. Failure to follow

instructions may result in property damage, bodily

injury, or death.

Before installing a woodstove, check your local

building codes and any requirements established by

your insurance company.

You may need a local building permit to install your

stove. Any changes in your home must comply with

building codes. If the codes have not been fully

updated, you may want to check with the Building

Inspection Department or your local Fire Department. A

qualified stove installer should be aware of any changes

and updates to local and state codes and may be best

suited to handle your installation work.

Many chimney sweeps are qualified installers. If you

are unfamiliar with sweeps or need to locate a certified

sweep in your area, you can check listings at

www.csia.org (Chimney Safety Institute of America).

Builders and contractors are another option. In some

cases, homeowners install their own stoves. Before

installing your stove, please review carefully the stove

installation, clearance, and safety information in this

manual. Woodstock Soapstone has NFI (National

Fireplace Institute) certified woodburning specialists on

staff and available to answer any questions you may

have about your installation. If you have questions,

please call us toll free at 1-800-866-4344.

You should notify your insurance company that you

are using a woodstove. Before you light your first fire,

have a local building inspector and your insurance

representative inspect, and approve in writing, your

installation.

When this room heater is not properly installed, a

house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, fol-

low the installation instructions. Contact local

building or fire officials about restrictions and

installation inspection requirements in your area.

CHIMNEYS

Your chimney is a critical component of your wood heating system. A properly designed and constructed chimney will

help to provide safe and efficient woodstove operation. Hot exhaust rising up through the chimney also pulls combus-

tion air into the stove through the air damper. If a chimney is too short, or the flue too large, the hot exhaust will cool

and slow down. This can lead to poor stove performance, smoke spillage, back puffing, and even creosote build up in

the chimney itself. An excessively tall chimney could lead to a strong draft, which may make the fire difficult to control

with the stove damper. This could result in over firing the stove and lead to damage to the cast iron components as well

as the catalytic combustor. Whether you are installing a new chimney, or adapting an existing chimney to your wood-

stove, close attention to chimney height, flue size, and location should be considered.

Chimney Flue Sizing:

The Model 205 Fireview Wood Stove has a 6” flue collar and a 6” chimney is considered

ideal. If upsizing needs to occur due to an existing chimney the following general rules

apply:

1. Interior Chimney (no walls of the chimney exposed to the outside below the roofline):

the inside cross-sectional area of your chimney should be no more than 3x the cross-

sectional area of the woodstove flue collar.

2. Exterior Chimney (if there are one or more walls exposed to the outside below the

roofline) - The flue should be no more than 2x the cross-sectional area of the flue collar.

Recommendation: Woodstock Soapstone recommends, for the Fireview wood stoves, a

maximum of 8 inch x 10 inch rectangular or 10 inch round flue tile for an inside chimney.

For an outside chimney, an 8 inch x 8 inch square or 8 inch round would be the largest rec-

ommended. The smallest size we recommend is 6 inches round. DO NOT VENT THE

FIREVIEW INTO A CHIMNEY OF LESS THAN 6 INCHES IN DIAMETER.

Note: For flues that exceed the recommended area, a stainless steel chimney liner is recom-

mended.

Height Requirements:

The chimney must extend 3 ft. above the point where it passes through the roof and must also be 2 ft. higher than any

roof surface or obstruction within 10 feet (measured horizontally) of the chimney. You should check your local building

codes for any other requirements.

The recommended minimum

chimney height is 15 feet from the flue collar of the stove to the top of the chimney. This

includes connector pipe and chimney pipe. There may be other factors to conform to code for clearances on the roof,

high wind, high altitude, etc., that may make the minimum height undesirable or a violation of

building codes. Woodstock Soapstone does not list a maximum chimney height requirement,

but it is important to know that a tall chimney (often at or over 30’), can overdraft.

Overdrafting chimneys can cause internal firebox damage. Often the draft can be controlled with

the use of a pipe damper. If you think your chimney may be overdrafting, call us at 1-800-866-4344.

CHIMNEY TYPES

There are two acceptable types of chimneys: Lined Masonry Chimneys and Class A, Pre-fabricat-

ed Metal Chimneys rated to 2100° F. Masonry chimneys must meet all applicable codes for a

safe installation.

Lined Masonry Chimneys:

Always have the chimney inspected prior to your stove installation. If your chimney is not lined

with appropriately sized clay flue tiles, or the clay tiles are old, cracked, damaged or otherwise

compromised, a stainless steel chimney liner or poured liner will be required. Depending on the

condition of your flue or clay tiles, the stainless steel liner may need to be wrapped in a high

temperature insulation blanket. A liner may also be recommended if your flue is too large for the

draft to flow properly (please refer to the section on chimney sizing). Our customer service

department can answer any questions regarding the use of a liner and/or insulating blanket.

Call 1-800-866-4344.

Existing chimneys should be checked twice a year for obstructions, creosote deposits, surface

Installing a Stainless Steel

Liner in a Masonry Chimney

Chimneys must

extend a minimum

of 3’ above roof

penetration...

... and a minimum of 2’

above the highest point

within 10’.

Terra Cotta Tile Lined

Masonry Chimney

DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

cracks, chemical deterioration and poor construction. Any damage should be repaired immedi-

ately. Two other chimney related areas that should be checked are chimney penetrations at the

floor or ceiling joists, and at the roofline. There should be at least 2 inches of clearance between

the chimney and floor joists or other combustible materials. Poor flashing between the chimney

and the roof line can cause leaks and deterioration of chimney mortar.

You should make preliminary checks, but if you have any doubts, or are unfamiliar with chim-

ney construction, cleaning, or maintenance, have a local fire official or certified chimney profes-

sional inspect your chimney. If repairs are required, be sure to use someone who is knowledge-

able in chimney work and familiar with local code requirements.

In addition: All brick or cinder block chimneys should have clean out access with a tight fit-

ting door. Masonry chimneys should have a wash at the top. All chimneys should have a cap to

keep out rain and snow and to minimize downdrafts caused by wind.

Passing Through A Combustible Wall:

With an exterior chimney, in most cases the chimney connector (or stove pipe) will need to pass through a combustible

wall. The following are acceptable methods:

A. Use a section of Solid Insulated Prefabricated Metal Chimney to connect to the chimney - Use a section of insulated

prefabricated 2100° Class A chimney pipe listed to UL 103 HT (at least 1” of insulation or greater) the same inside diameter

as the stove pipe and maintain a 9” air space between the wall of the prefabricated chimney and the combustible wall. This

section of chimney pipe can be supported by a sheet metal plate securely fastened to the combustible wall, with a hole cut in

the middle of it. This will close the gap around the chimney pipe and the framed opening. (See Diagram A Below)

B. Build a solid brick surround around a tile liner - Frame a 3.5” thick brick surround into the combustible wall you need to

pass through. Maintain a minimum 12” brick separation from the clay liner to combustibles. The minimum 5/8” thick clay

liner should be cemented in place and run from the outer surface of the brick to the inner surface of the chimney. (See

Diagram B Below)

C. There are also UL Listed kits available that are specifically designed for passing through a combustible wall. For more

information on these kits, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company. Please note: there are several UL listed wall pass

through kits available, always follow the manufacturers specific installation instructions. (See Diagram C Below)

For other methods, please refer to NFPA 211.

Prefabricated Metal Chimneys:

For high efficiency, freestanding woodstoves, like your Woodstock Soapstone stove, a Prefabricated

Metal Chimney must be listed as Class A and carry a UL Listing of 103 HT (high temperature). The

“UL 103 Type HT Class A” prefabricated chimney will have a temperature rating of 2,100° F.

There are prefabricated chimney systems that are approved to 1,700° F and are generally used with fireplace inserts or

factory built fireplaces. These ARE NOT suitable for use with your Woodstock Soapstone stove.

At the point of the first penetration of a combustible surface (i.e., wall or ceiling) all subsequent venting components

need to be prefabricated “UL Type HT Class A”. If your prefabricated chimney goes through a living space it must be

Connecting your stove to a

masonry thimble.

The minimum clearance for a single wall

metal stovepipe and terra cotta thimble at the

chimney connection is 12”

Using a Prefabricated Metal Chimney section

to connect to an existing masonry chimney

located behind a combustible wall

Use a UL listed and approved wall pass thru kit.

Refractory

Cement

Insulated

section of

factory built

chimney

Sheet

Steel

Supports

9”

Refractory

Cement

Fireclay Thimble

12”

Stainless Steel

Connector

UL listed

insulated

thimble

Minimum required

air space

Listed wall

protector &

cover shield

UL 103 HT Stainless

Chimney Connection

REMEMBER, UNPROTECTED SINGLE OR DOUBLE WALL STOVE PIPE SHOULD NOT PASS THROUGH A

COMBUSTIBLE WALL OR CEILING TO CONNECT TO THE CHIMNEY

. YOU MUST USE AN APPROVED METHOD

WHICH PROVIDES GREATER PROTECTION THAN SINGLE OR DOUBLE WALL PIPE

enclosed, and that enclosure must conform to clearance standards for the prefabricated chimney. Your chimney must

pass through your roof and extend above the roof line in accordance with code standards. Please refer to height require-

ments on Page 2.

PREFABRICATED CHIMNEY CONFIGURATIONS

The diagrams below represent the most common and acceptable installations using prefabricated chimney pipe. The nec-

essary components are listed and shown in their appropriate locations. These components are Class A listed to U.L.

103HT (tested to 2100 degrees F.) Only components listed to UL 103HT can be used to install your wood stove.

Installation instructions are described below as examples only. More detailed instructions are available through

Woodstock Soapstone or the pipe manufacturer. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFIC INSTALLA-

TION INSTRUCTIONS.

Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof

First, determine where the stove will be placed. Pay close attention to all required

clearances for the stove and connector pipe. Next, use a plumb line to locate the

Finish Ceiling Support in the ceiling above. Cut the appropriate sized hole in the

ceiling and frame in the necessary supports to secure the ceiling support. Install the

pipe adapter onto the first section of chimney pipe, and lower them into the Ceiling

support. Use an insulation shield in the attic to keep any insulation away from the

pipe. If the attic is a living space the chimney pipe must be fully enclosed. As the

pipe extends through the roof, install the appropriate flashing and storm collar to

keep the weather out. As the height of the chimney increases to meet code, it may be

necessary to install a roof brace (typically recommended at 5’ intervals). All chim-

neys should have the appropriate cap installed at the top to reduce wind and weath-

er related downdrafts as well as deter any animals from building nests. The connec-

tor pipe should extend from the flue collar of the stove to the pipe adapter at the

ceiling support. The male (crimped) end should always point down toward the

stove. Be sure that each joint has enough overlap for a secure connection. All connec-

tions should be fastened with screws, including at the flue collar and pipe adapter.

(Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation instructions)

Installation 2- Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof

Determine where the stove will be placed. Be sure all clearance requirements are

satisfied. Choose the appropriate support for your installation (Support box or Roof

support package). Use a plumb line to locate the support in the ceiling above. Cut

the appropriate sized hole in the ceiling and install the necessary framing to secure

the support. Install the support according to its specific instructions.. Be sure that

the support hangs down below the ceiling far enough to maintain proper clearance

to the connector pipe (steeper slopes require more pipe below the ceiling). Install

the pipe adapter to the first section of chimney pipe and lower it into the support

box (or connect it to the bottom of the roof support). As the pipe extends through

the roof install the appropriate roof flashing and storm collar. Install the proper

chimney pipe lengths to meet code and recommended chimney height. It may be

necessary to install a roof brace for stability. Always install the appropriate cap to

the top of the chimney. Double wall connector pipe is recommended for installa-

tions that have 10’ or more from the stove to the chimney. Be sure that all joints in

the connector pipe are secure and fastened with screws, including at the flue collar

and chimney pipe adapter. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation

instructions)

Installation 3- Through the wall

This installation requires the use of an insulated wall thimble to penetrate a com-

bustible wall. Typically a 9”-12” chimney pipe and pipe adapter will pass through

the thimble and make the connection between the interior connector pipe and an

insulated tee with a clean out on the outside of the bulding. The tee and chimney

rising up from it rest on a wall support designed to bear the weight of the chimney.

Install lateral supports as specified as the chimney rises along the exterior wall. The

appropriate flashing and storm collar should be installed if the chimney penetrates

an eave or overhang. An offset of 15 or 30 degrees may also be used to go around an

overhang. As the chimney extends above the roof to meet code it may be necessary

to install a roof brace. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation

instructions).

Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof

Installation 2

Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof.

Class A

Chimney Pipe

Installation 3- Through the Wall

Attic Insulation Shield

Stovepipe (Connector Pipe):

Connector pipe is either single wall (sheet metal) or double wall (sheet metal outer pipe with a stainless steel inner

pipe). We strongly recommend 22 gauge pipe (26 or 28 gauge is too thin for use with a wood stove). The connector pipe

should be 6 inch diameter to match the flue collar of the stove. If your connection to either a masonry chimney or prefab-

ricated chimney system is more than 8 feet tall, we recommend the use of double wall connector pipe. If you need to

reduce clearances for your connector pipe installation, double wall connector pipe would be recommended. All pipe con-

nections, including at the flue collar, must be secured with screws. DO NOT USE GALVANIZED SINGLE WALL PIPE.

Connector pipe is designed to connect your stove to your masonry lined or approved prefabricated chimney system.

CONNECTOR PIPE SHOULD NEVER BE USED AS A CHIMNEY AND SHOULD NEVER PASS THROUGH A

COMBUSTIBLE WALL, CEILING, WINDOW, CLOSET, OR ROOF. At the point where your stovepipe meets the

chimney, you must either vent into a masonry chimney with approved non-combustible transition, or a prefabricated

chimney system with a specially designed transition piece.

FIREPLACE INSTALLATION

Your Model 205 Fireview wood stove can be installed in front of an existing fireplace

with a lintel opening of 26.5” high or taller. Installing the Fireview soapstone stove in a

fireplace setting is a great way to enjoy the view of the fire, while greatly increasing the

efficiency and reducing heat loss to the fireplace chimney.

We do not recommend placing the stove inside the fireplace, as it would be difficult to

access the control levers, load the stove, and much of the heat radiating off the stove

would not circulate into the room.

The preferred method is to install a stove in front of a fireplace and run a stainless steel

‘flex’ liner down the chimney, connecting it to the stove at the fireplace. Chimneys with

large flues should be re-lined to achieve proper draft. If the chimney does not have a tile

lined flue or if the tile is cracked or compromised, an additional insulating material must

be used.

It is important that there be a secure connection between the stove and the flue

liner. It is NOT acceptable to simply install a plate in front of the fireplace and run

a stovepipe through it. The stove pipe must connect with the liner for a continu-

ous outlet to the top of your chimney.

Stainless steel flex liner kits come in a variety of lengths and are readily available. These

kits include a flexible stainless steel pipe, tee with snout & clean out, a block-off plate for

the top of the chimney and a cap. Please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company for

more information on these kits. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S SPE-

CIFIC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.

If the fireplace surround is clad in wood trim, the proper clearance to a combustible

will need to be maintained. See illustrations to the left. An unprotected wood mantel

needs to be a minimum of 30” from the top of the stove. If a mantel shield is installed

that clearance can be reduced to 12”.

DO NOT VENT YOUR WOOD STOVE THROUGH A FACTORY BUILT FIRE-

PLACE UNLESS IT IS SPECIFICALLY LISTED FOR SUCH AN INSTALLATION .

Most factory-built fireplace chimney systems are only rated to 1,700° F, which is not

sufficient for a freestanding wood burning stove.

FLOOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS

Your Woodstock Soapstone stove must be set on an approved hearth or floor protection.

The hearth protects your floor from two hazards:

• Heat Transfer: Heat radiation from the bottom, front, and sides of the woodstove

• Ember Protection: Sparks and hot coals that may fall out during ash removal and reloading of firewood.

Cap

Top Plate

Stainless

Liner

Fireview Stove in front of an

existing fireplace

30” clearance off stove

top without protection.

12” with a proper

mantel shield

Cleanout Tee

& Snout

Wood

trim

18”min. to combustible trim or

12” with rear heat shield

Wood

trim

DO NOT INSTALL YOUR WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE STOVE ON A COMBUSTIBLE SUR-

FACE (WOOD, CARPET, LAMINATE, OR VINYL, FOR EXAMPLE).

Even if you have a stone or tile overlay on wood, it is still considered combustible since the surface materials will not

provide adequate heat transfer protection.

Your stove MUST sit on one of the following:

• A hearth pad of solid masonry (brick or tile on concrete and mortared in place)

• A prefabricated hearth pad listed to UL approved standards. These pads are made to be placed on an existing floor.

Woodstock Soapstone Company has a good selection of these pre-made pads.

• A custom designed pad constructed of approved non-combustible materials which will protect the floor from sparks,

hot coals, and ashes; and prevents heat from being transferred onto the floor beneath.

IF YOU CHOOSE TO BUILD YOUR OWN HEARTH PAD

1) Start with a plywood base or sub-floor.

Over this apply:

2) a layer of insulating board with an R-Value of at least 0.40. Depending on the mate-

rial you choose, the insulating board can be as little as 1/2” thick. For additional

help with material specifications, contact Woodstock Soapstone Company at 1-800-

866-4344 or at [email protected].

Over this apply:

3) 1/4” or greater of a decorative, non-combustible material such as tile, slate, stone,

or brick. Use mortar or grout to set the material in place, then grout the seams.

Specifications for floor protectors may be listed in terms of R-value, K-value, or C-

value. To convert K or C value to R-value use the following formulas.

K to R: R=1/K x T (Thickness of the alternate material in inches)

C to R: R=1/C

Once alternate materials have been converted to R-values, the values of multiple layers can be added to determine the

combined protection. If the overall R-value meets or exceeds the specified 0.40 then the materials are acceptable.

DO NOT

USE: Old-fashioned stove boards that were commonly sold in hardware stores as they DO NOT have ade-

quate protection and ARE NOT approved for primary floor protection under your stove.

Hearth Rugs also ARE NOT meant to be used as primary hearth protection. These are made to be used in addition to

an approved hearth, and are used as auxiliary decorative protection. They are not made to be a substitute for an

approved hearth pad.

You can build your own hearth pad to fit

your decor. The hearth pad must meet a

minimum R value of .40

trim

board

1/4” slate or tile

3/4” plywood

or subfloor

non-combustible

insulation board

R-values of common hearth materials:

Ceramic Tile 1/4” 0.020

Granite 1/4” 0.020

Slate 1/4” 0.025

Cement Mortar 1/2” 0.025

Cementboard 1/4”-1/2” 0.20-0.39

Common Brick 2.25” 0.450

Common Brick 4.00” 0.800

Mineral/Ceramic Fiber Board 1/2” 1.10-1.470

Please Note: Always check with the manufacturer of the hearth material used to

verify the R or K value.

K Values cannot be added, convert to R value before adding multiple layers.

Hearth Sizing:

Clearances for your Fireview stove on the front, back and sides must be taken into consideration when determining the

placement and size of your floor protection. Vertical dimensions can be

added to horizontal dimensions on all but the loading door side to equal

the clearances needed to a combustible floor surface. For example, if you

are required to have 8 inches in front of the stove for clearance and you

have a raised hearth that measures 4 inches high, the stove can sit 4 inch-

es from the edge to equal the 8 inches required. The floor protection must

extend under any horizontal connector pipe and 2 inches beyond each

side.

PARALLEL INSTALLATION HEARTH PAD

A. Floor protection in front of stove = 8”

B. Floor protection at loading door side = 16”

C. Floor protection non-loading door side = 8”

D. Floor protection behind stove = 8”

Minimum hearth size in a parallel installation is: 36”D x 50”W

Recommended size is: 48”D x 60”W

CORNER HEARTH PAD

Minimum hearth size in a corner installation must be 54”x54” (with the front corner

cut off). NOTE: On a hearth of minimum size, the stove will not be centered left to

right, but will meet the minimum required clearances.

Calculating a Corner Hearth Pad (per NFPA 211):

A=C x 1.414 + W/2 + D + Front Hearth Requirement

A =distance from corner to the front of the hearth pad

C = clearance from rear corner of appliance to wall (12” w/ rear

heat shield)

1.414 = a constant

W/2 = one half the appliance width (13”)

D = appliance depth (20”)

Front Hearth Clearance= 8”

Example:

Fireview with the Rear Heat Shield & Pipe Shield

& 6” Flue

A= 12” x 1.414 + 13” + 20”+ 8” A= 58.00”

WALL PROTECTION

The Fireview model have been tested to UL standards for clearances to combustible walls. The minimum clearances to

unprotected walls are as follows:

Minimum clearances with no heat shields to unprotected combustible walls:

From the back-------------------30”

From the sides-------------------18”

Do not assume that a wall is not combustible because it has a nonflammable surface. A wall with any combustible

materials in it must be considered combustible. For example, a brick wall attached to wood studs is considered a com-

bustible wall. Over time, heat will pass through bricks and heat the wood, lowering the ignition temperature of the

studs, possibly resulting in a fire. As waves of radiant heat energy meet a combustible object, heat is absorbed and the

A=58”

CORNER HEARTH PAD

Fireview shown above centered left

to right

16”

8”

Hearth pad must extend at least 16” on the loading door

side and 8” on non-loading door side and back, and 8”

in front of the stove.

26”

20”

temperature of the object is raised, which can result in spontaneous combustion. Similarly, wood-framed walls which are

covered with tile, stone or fire-rated sheetrock must be considered combustible. Fire-rated sheetrock is also considered

combustible due to the paper covering.

If you wish to install your stove closer to a combustible wall than standard clearances will permit, you can either attach

a UL approved stove & pipe shield, or mount a protective non-combustible shield on the wall.

Stove and Pipe Shields:

Clearances can be reduced by attaching a UL approved heat shield and pipe shield. Woodstock Soapstone Company

carries heat shields specifically designed for this stove. When using both of these shields,the clearance behind the stove

can be reduced to 18 inches. The clearance behind the pipe can be reduced to 10 inches.

Wall shields:

Clearances can also be reduced by mounting a ventilated shield on the wall that extends 36” out beyond the stove (see

diagram below). If you are installing wall protection, it should be spaced out from the wall one inch. This air space

allows air to flow freely behind the shield, cooling the combustible wall and preventing a pocket of hot air from being

trapped behind the shield. The wall protection can be attached to the studs using long screws and ceramic wall spacers.

The spacers should not be installed directly behind the stove. The top and either a.) both sides, or b.) the bottom must be

left open for adequate ventilation.

*These clearances meet or exceed requirements of NFPA 211, Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces,

Vents, and Solid Fuel Burning Appliances.

• These clearances apply to walls, ceilings, furniture and other combustibles.

• The 36” Vertical Stack Shield attaches to the back of the stove pipe and prevents excess heat from being radiated

from the pipe. Heat shield protection is only required for the first 36” of vertical connector pipe.

• At least 30” is required from the front of the stove to combustibles (such as curtains, wall hangings, and furniture).

The same clearances from your stove and stove pipe apply to both fireplace and freestanding installations. Be

particularly careful to check clearances to a wood mantel or a wood fireplace facade. You must maintain a 30” clearance

to an unprotected wood mantel. See Fireplace Installations on Page 5.

102” Required Width

62”

Required

Height

EXAMPLE:

Wall shield sizing with the 12”

Minimum Clearance to

Combustible Wall/Top Venting.

Note: Wall shield size will vary

depending on distance between

stove and wall.

12”

30”

30” clearance from

top of stove to unpro-

tected wood mantel

Clearance Table for Model 205 Fireview

Type of Protection Stove Back Stove Sides Stove pipe

No Protection 30” 18” 20”

3 1/2” thick Masonry Against 20” 14” 16”

Combustible Wall*

3 1/2” thick Masonry with 12” 7” 12”

1” ventilated airspace*

24 ga. sheet metal with 1” 12” 7” 12”

ventilated airspace*

1/2” thick non-combustible 12” 7” 12”

insulation board with 1” airspace*

UL Listed Rear Heat Shield and 18” 18” 10”

36” vertical stack shield (back only)

CLEARANCE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS

1) Parallel Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Back Vent

NO HEAT SHIELD

A. Back of stove to wall = 30” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20”

B. Back of pipe to wall = 20” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”

WITH REAR SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED

A. Back of stove shield to wall = 18” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20

B. Back of pipe shield to wall = 10” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”

NO HEAT SHIELD

A. Stove corners to side walls = 18”(determines placement)

B. Pipe to side walls = 20”

WITH REAR SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED

A. Stove corners to side walls = 12”(determines placement)

B. Back of pipe shield to side walls = 10”minimum

2) Corner Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Back Vent

MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION

CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE MOBILE HOME FLOOR, WALL AND CEILING/ROOF

MUST BE MAINTAINED.

The Fireview stove is approved for installation in a mobile home. Along with the general installation requirements for

your stove, there are further regulations that must be followed for installing a stove in a mobile home. These regulations

assume that the structure is very tightly constructed, made of metal, and that the home can be moved. Mobile home

regulations vary from one locality to another, and may include some, or all, of

the following:

• The stove must be attached to the floor of the home.

• The stove must be grounded to the mobile home’s chassis.

• You must maintain the structural integrity of the home.

• You must bring outside air to the stove for combustion.

• You must use close clearance (double wall) connector pipe between

stove and chimney.

• You must install a rain cap with spark arrester.

• You may NOT

install the appliance in a bedroom.

1. Outside Air must be used for combustion. Many mobile homes have very tight construction, so wood stoves need a

way to get adequate combustion air from outside the home to avoid the risk of depleting oxygen in the living space and to

reduce the liklihood of smoldering and spilling smoke because there is a lack of combustion air. Having outside air for

combustion is a requirement for all woodburning stoves in the state of Washington and is recommended for woodstoves

in “super tight” new construction.

The outside air adapter has a four-inch collar on the back of the stove. Use 26 gage pipe to to make a duct from this col-

lar, through the floor, and then horizontally to the outside of the foundation or skirting. The termination of the outside

air adapter should be covered with wire mesh with openings no larger han 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch.

2. Tie Downs: HUD requires that the stove must be attached to the floor. This is to prevent tipping in the event the

home is moved. It also provides some protection if the mobile home is installed in an earthquake zone. Metal straps

must be used to bolt the stove to the floor of the mobile home. These straps are available from Woodstock Soapstone

Company at no charge.

3. Spark Arrestor: The chimney cap must have a spark arrestor screen for fire-protection. These are available with most

prefabricated chimney systems.

4. Grounding: The stove should be grounded to the home chassis.

5. Not allowed in mobile home bedrooms: Wood stoves are not permitted for installation in sleeping rooms.

6. In a mobile home, the interior connector pipe must be close clearance (double wall) pipe. SINGLE WALL CONNEC-

TOR PIPE IS NOT

ALLOWED IN A MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION.

Additional information about the installation of wood burning appliances in mobile homes is available from the

Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD).

Fireview shown with Outside Air

Adapter attached.

Mobile Home Prohibition:

WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN SLEEPING ROOM

SETTING UP YOUR STOVE

Before you light your stove for the first time, please follow these instructions.

1) Install the bottom heat shield, 2) Attach coiled spring handle for the top lid, 3) Attach the knob for the bypass handle

(1)How to attach the Fireview bottom heat shield:

The bottom heat shield prevents excess heat from being radiated from the base of the stove onto the hearth. The bottom

heat shield also contains a pocket to hold the Fall-Away Handle.

1. Attach the “V-Shaped” pocket to the bottom of the heat shield. Hardware is included with the manual and the 4

holes are pre-drilled. This pocket serves as storage for the Fall-Away Handle.

2. There are 4 threaded posts behind each of the four stove legs. Slide the shield

under the stove and attach it through the leg bolts with the 4 nuts provided in

the manual package. The shield hangs down below the bottom of the stove, and

rests on the nut, leaving air space for cooling.

3. The “V-Shaped” pocket will be on the bottom of the heat shield, right under

loading door. Slide the Fall-Away Handle into the V-pocket for easy storage.

(2) Attaching the Coiled Spring Handle:

Widen the end of the loop in the coiled spring handle, and slide the end of the loop down

through the hole at the front of the top casting. To eliminate the possibility of the handle

coming off while raising or lowering the lid, the end of the coiled spring handle should be

squeezed shut after it is attached to the lid. Wrap a soft cloth around the handle to protect the

plated finish, and squeeze the handle shut with a pair of pliers.

NOTE: When you raise or lower the lid, be sure the coiled spring handle is above the lid;

don’t use the handle to push the lid up or lower it down (see illustration).

(3) How to Attach the Fireview Bypass Damper Knob:

The Fireview Bypass Damper is pre-installed. Attach the “press-on” black plastic knob on

the end of the bypass rod at the back of the stove using a pushing, twisting motion; or gently

hammer the knob onto the rod with a soft mallet.

Lift the top lid by pulling up

on the coil spring handle.

Do not push the lid up using

the handle (the handle might

slip off the top lid).

Installation of Fireview bottom heat shield and

V-pocket. The Fall Away Handle slides into the

V-pocket, as shown above.

OPERATION

Prior to operating your new Fireview woodstove, please refer to “Setting up your stove” on pages 10-11, located in the

Installation portion of the manual.

Seasoning Your Stove

Both soapstone and cast iron need to be seasoned. The seasoning can be accomplished through a series of small to

moderate fires. Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove is an easy stove to season, because even a small fire will provide hours

of radiant heat once the stove is warm. There are two things you will notice during the first fire:

First, there will be a hot, acrid smell as the stove heats up. This smell is a result of the paint on the cast iron curing.

You will want to have your first fire on a day when you can open the windows in the house to provide adequate

ventilation. Fortunately, the odor is non-toxic and will only be present for the first few fires.

Second, there will be some condensation on the glass. This condensation is a result of

moisture being driven out of the furnace cement in the stove, and condensing on the inner

surface of the glass. It takes a couple of small fires to season the stove and remove this excess

moisture.

After the first few fires, the texture and grain of the stone may become slightly more

pronounced, and the color may deepen slightly.

Starting a Fire and Establishing Proper Draft

THIS IS IMPORTANT: Check the Draft Before You Light The Stove:

Before you light your stove, it is a good idea to check the draft. If you experience a down

draft (cool air moving down the chimney), you will need to correct this before you light the

stove. Otherwise, you may get smoke in the house.

1. Open the catalytic bypass damper by pushing the lever with the black knob all the way

down. This will open the bypass door. (Fig. 1)

2. Push the air lever next to the side door all the way down to “4” to completely open the

air damper. With the lever in the down position, maximum air is allowed into the

firebox. (Fig. 2)

3. Always confirm there is adequate draft before lighting the fire. Hold a lit match or light

a small piece of newspaper in the top of the firebox, where smoke exits. If the flame is

drawn out of the firebox, toward the flue, proceed with lighting the fire. If the flame

stands still or is pushed away from the flue exit, you must establish a good draft before

lighting a fire. There are several ways of establishing a draft, below are a few suggestions:

A) You may be able to correct inadequate draft by opening a door or window in the room

where the stove is installed. Wait a minute or two, then light a match again in front of the

flue outlet. The flame should be pulled into the flue opening.

B) A hair dryer or heat gun pointed at the flue exit is a good way to establish draft

without creating a lot of smoke. After you think you have draft, re-test with a match.

C) Light rolled up newspaper and hold it under the bypass door at the back of the stove.

This should warm the chimney enough to establish proper draft.

Lighting the Fire

DO NOT USE ANDIRONS OR A GRATE TO SUPPORT WOOD. BUILD A FIRE

DIRECTLY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FIREBOX.

1) Once good draft has been established, build a fire on the floor of the firebox. Do not use additional grates,

andirons, or any other methods to support the fuel in the firebox. Start with crumpled newspaper and dry

kindling.

2) Now light the newspaper. Once it catches, you may leave the door open 1/4 to 1/2 inch for a few minutes to

promote air flow, but DO NOT forget to close it.

Always perform the “Match Test”

before lighting your stove. If you

light a match and hold it in front of

the flue exit, the flame will be

pulled into the flue collar if there is

enough draft to light the stove.

Figure 1:

Open bypass by lowing

lever with the black knob

Figure 2:

Open air fully by lower-

ing air lever down to “4”.

3) Add small splits of firewood once the kindling has ignited. This will establish a bed of hot coals.

4) Add small to medium splits onto the hot coals. Assuming the wood is dry, the fire should spread through the

wood. After about 10 minutes, close the air damper down about half way between the “2” and “3” mark.

5) After the stove top temperature reaches 250°F or your single wall pipe temperature reaches 300-350°F, close the

bypass by lifting the lever with the black knob all the way up into the closed position. It will stop when the

bypass is fully closed. All of the smoke from the firebox will now pass through the catalytic combustor. The

combustor will generate a substantial amount of heat as it “burns” the smoke passing through it.

6) Adjust the air control damper to a lower setting, our recommendation is near the “1” mark. The closer the lever

is to the “0”, the lower the burn rate, as less air is entering the firebox. The final damper setting will be

determined by the desired heat output from the stove, the condition of the wood being burned, and the draft

through the chimney system.

NOTE: The above procedures, times, and positions are a guide. Your conditions will vary depending upon draft, wood

moisture and size, and weather conditions.

Engaging the Catalytic Combustor

The catalytic combustor will start to burn the gases and particles in the smoke when the

temperature of the smoke reaches approximately 500ºF (internally), or after about 10-15

minutes of establishing a strong fire. Each stove comes with a magnetic surface thermometer

and a probe thermometer to monitor your stove temperatures. The magnetic surface

thermometer will read approximately 1/2 the temperature inside the stove, so when the

surface thermometer on the stove top reads 250ºF, it is 500ºF inside. You will find that after

the combustor is engaged, surface temperatures will often rise considerably- evidence that

the combustor is producing lots of heat, and the pipe temperature will go down, indicating

less heat loss to your chimney!

The probe thermometer terminates within an inch of the catalytic combustor, and will

provide the temperature of gasses exiting the catalytic combustor. Temperatures above 500

degrees F indicate that the catal;yst is working.

Engage the combustor by lifting the bypass handle (with the black knob) up until it clicks

into its upright position and then reduce the air damper to 1. You should see the bright

yellow flames slow down and become more orange in color. Make fine adjustments to your

damper (by moving it closer to 0 in 1/8 to 1/4 inch increments) until you achieve this slower

moving, darker flame. Closing the air damper all the way will provide a long, overnight

burn.

Low & Overnight Burning

These instructions are intended as a guide to operating your wood stove. Your timing and final damper settings will

vary depending on chimney draft, type of wood, moisture content of the wood, and size of the splits. The Fireview

model is simply designed and intended to be user friendly, but it will take some practice to get used to it.

1) Before you open the loading door, you must fully open the catalytic bypass and the air damper. Wait a minute or

so for a strong draft to be established to prevent smoke from spilling back into the room.

2) Stir up the hot coals. If necessary, excess ash should be removed before reloading the firebox. Simply rake the hot

coals back and forth in the firebox to allow the loose ash to fall through the grate into the ash pan. Dispose of the

ash properly. Never put an ash container on a combustible surface, like a wood floor.

3) Place several small splits on top of the hot coals and allow them to ignite.

4) Load the firebox to capacity, leaving space for secondary combustion, with a mix of larger and smaller splits.

The amount of combustion air

available in the firebox is controlled

by the air control lever.

When the combustor lever is up,

the combustor is in the “engaged”

position. When the handle is down,

the combustor is “bypassed”.

CAUTION

NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQ-

UIDS, TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY

FROM THE STOVE WHILE IT IS IN USE.

Close the loading door and allow the pipe temperature to come back up to 300°-350°.

5) Adjust the air damper to a low setting by lifting the lever up.

6) Close the catalytic bypass, by lifting the lever with the black knob all the way up into the closed position. It will

stop when the bypass is fully closed.

7) Initially the fire may appear to die out. This may cause a small amount of soot to collect on the glass. Any

buildup on the glass should go away with higher t emperature burns

THE STOVE SHOULD NEVER BE OPERATED WITH THE DRAFT DAMPER COMPLETELY OPEN EXCEPT

WHEN KINDLING A FIRE OR RELOADING THE STOVE. It should be “damped down” or partially closed as soon

as the fire has been kindled or, if the stove is being reloaded, as soon as the fire has been re-established.

NEVER BUILD A ROARING FIRE IN A COLD STOVE! It takes approximately 30-45 minutes to heat the soapstone

mass of the Fireview stove thoroughly. Any attempt to hurry this process and generate extremely high heat quickly

could result in damage to the cast-iron or to the soapstone. Your patience will be rewarded with hours of “stored”

warmth.

The Surface and Probe Thermometers

We recommend placing the surface thermometer 8”-10”above the flue collar on

single wall stove pipe if the stove is vented out the top. If you are reading the

single wall stove pipe temperature, the interior flue exhaust temperature is about

twice as hot. Since the 22 gauge sheet metal pipe is more reactive (faster heat

transfer) than the stove top, you will find you can engage the combustor sooner. We

recommend engaging your catalytic combustor once the pipe thermometer reaches

250°-300° F.

Once the combustor is engaged, you should see the stove surface temperature rise

and the pipe temperature drop, indicating catalytic combustor activity. From a cold

start it may take 30-45 minutes to get the stove up to temperature. If you are

reloading a hot stove, wait approximately 10-15 minutes before engaging the

combustor.

The thermometer is not a precise instrument – it will not tell you the exact

temperature inside the firebox or in the flue. If reading the surface temperature, the thermometer will not register

changes in temperature quickly due to the thickness and heat retention of soapstone. We supply the thermometer to give

you some idea of what is going on inside the stove, and to provide a guide for operation.

STOVE TOP READING OPERATION

at or over 250º...............OK to engage the combustor

400-600º......................Normal operating temperature

600-700º......................High burn range

over 700º.....................DO NOT burn in this range

The probe thermometer can be inserted into the port beside the flue collar in the rear of the stove. The probe

thermometer wll measure the temperature immediately downstream of the catalytic combustor. The sensing end of the

probe extends to within 1 inch of the face of the catalyst. The probe is calibrated from room temperature to 1700 degrees

F. The catalyst can be engaged as soon as the temperature on this probe exceeds 500 degrees F, or as soon as the

temperature on the pipe thermometer exceeds 250 degrees (see above). The best operating range for the catalyst is from

500 - 1400 degrees F. When the temperature on the probe thermometert exceeds 1400oF, we recommend closing the

damper to prevent excessive heat from occuring

Overfiring

The cast iron parts in your Woodstock Soapstone Stove are of the finest quality. Each cast iron part is inspected by our

stove builders before it becomes part of a stove. However, cast iron is not indestructible. Experts have shown that cast

iron begins to oxidize (reddish or whitish discoloration) at 1400º F. Burning a stove frequently at excessive temperatures

is known as overfiring. When the surface temperature is consistently near or over 700º F, the stove has reached 1400º F

inside. Operation with temperatures in this range can lead to cast iron warping, becoming brittle, and eventually

deteriorating completely. Overfiring can also shorten the useful life of the catalytic combustor.

Place the stove top thermometer on the soap-

stone, in the center of the top of the stove, over

the the catalyst, or on the first 8-10” of single

wall stove pipe.

Avoid overfiring by letting the combustor do most of the work in the stove. Your stove is operating at peak efficiency when

the combustor is “engaged”, with the damper lever set to a low to moderate setting, and the logs are glowing with some low

flames. You will get the greatest amount of heat per pound of wood when the stove is operated in this manner.

Daily Use

Your Fireview is well-suited for continuous firing on a 24 hour-a-day basis. It will burn for hours on one load of

wood, and will provide steady, even heat for hours after the fire dies down. When the temperature on top of the stove

drops below 250º during an all-night burn, it is not necessary to disengage the combustor. You need only disengage the

catalytic combustor when you kindle a fire, or reload the stove. Once the catalyst is ignited, it will continue to function

as long as there is smoke to burn. This is true even if the surface temperature on top of the stove drops below 250º at the

end of a long burn.

Your connector pipe and chimney, or chimney pipe, should be inspected at regular intervals (not less than once every

two months). Examine the connector pipe for creosote, corrosion, loose seams, or excessive soot. Clean and replace as

necessary. The chimney, or chimney pipe, should be cleaned and checked by a certified specialist once a year. A small

mirror held at the cleanout door of a masonry chimney will be helpful. For a class A prefabricated metal pipe, some

disassembly is usually required.

Ash Removal

Ashes must be removed through the side loading door, approximately every 5-7 days if the stove is in continuous

operation. You do not have to let the fire die out completely to remove the ashes, but the fire must be reduced to hot

coals. First make sure that both the catalytic bypass damper and the air control damper are open. This will increase the

draft and prevent smoke from entering the room. Open the side door and andmove the hot coals to one side or the back

of the firebox. Scoop out the ashes that were underneath the coals, and then reverse the procedure. Leave some ash and

hot coals in the bottom of the stove to help rekindle a fire.

The Fall-Away Handle

The metal “fall-away” handle, which comes with your stove, can be used to operate

any of the three controls on the stove: 1) The side door latch, 2) The draft damper

control, and 3) The catalytic bypass handle.

The FORK of the handle should be used to turn the latch, to push the door closed, or

open and close the damper.

The LEG of the handle should be used to pull the door open or to move the

combustor bypass into position.

The “fall-away” handle conforms to UL requirements and is made so that if you let go

of it, it will “fall-away” from the stove and not become too hot to handle.

The fall-away handle may be used to

operate the controls on your stove when

they are too hot to handle safely.

ASHES SHOULD BE EMPTIED INTO A METAL CONTAINER WITH A TIGHT FITTING LID. THE CLOSED

CONTAINER OF ASHES SHOULD BE PLACED ON A NONCOMBUSTIBLE FLOOR OR ON THE GROUND, WELL

AWAY FROM ALL COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS, PENDING FINAL DISPOSAL. IF THE ASHES ARE DISPOSED OF BY

BURIAL IN SOIL OR OTHERWISE LOCALLY DISPERSED, THEY SHOULD BE RETAINED IN THE CLOSED

CONTAINER UNTIL ALL CINDERS HAVE THOROUGHLY COOLED. LIVE CINDERS CAN TAKE 36 HOURS OR

LONGER TO COOL.

NEVER SHOVEL ASHES INTO A COMBUSTIBLE CONTAINER LIKE A CARDBOARD BOX OR A PLASTIC BUCKET.

DO NOT USE A VACUUM CLEANER TO REMOVE ASHES UNLESS IT IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR

WOODSTOVE ASH REMOVAL. NEVER LEAVE A CONTAINER OF HOT ASHES ON A WOOD FLOOR, PORCH, OR

ANY COMBUSTIBLE SURFACE.

DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS WOOD STOVE!

ATTEMPTS TO ACHIEVE HEAT OUTPUT RATES THAT EXCEED STOVE DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS

CAN RESULT IN PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE STOVE AND TO THE CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR.

Cooking

The soapstone top of your stove provides a good cooking surface for soups and stews or meals cooked in a Dutch

oven. The soapstone distributes heat evenly for long simmering, and the polished surface is a natural no-stick surface.

We do not recommend cooking directly on the stove top, as the surface will discolor. If the soapstone does discolor, it

can easily be restored by sanding lightly with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Soapstone griddles have been popular in New

England for years. They are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and can be purchased directly from Woodstock

Soapstone Company.

Firewood

Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove is designed to burn seasoned, natural cordwood only.

Higher efficiency and lower emissions generally result when burning air-dried hardwoods, as

compared to soft woods or green, freshly cut hardwoods.

The moisture content of some trees may range as high as 50% – i.e., there is as much

moisture in the tree as there is wood. After wood has been stored for a year, the moisture

content will usually range from 15-25%. Splitting wood before it is stored will reduce drying

time, result in more even burning, and lessen the danger of water vapor condensing in the

chimney, creosote formation, and damage to the catalyst. It is safer and more efficient to burn

dry or seasoned cordwood than green or wet wood that smolders.

The advantages of burning dry wood are many. Dry wood is lighter, easier to split and easier

to carry. It is easier to light, produces more heat and generates less smoke. If you burn wet

wood some of the energy generated by the fire is used to drive moisture out of the wood,

rather than producing heat for you. Dry wood will maintain the highest combustor

temperatures and burn the most efficiently. Creosote is much less likely to form if you burn

dry wood.

DO NOT BURN treated or painted wood, coal, garbage, cardboard, solvents, colored paper,

or trash in your Woodstock Soapstone Stove. Coal and artificial logs burn much hotter than

wood and could cause damage, through overheating, to the cast iron or the soapstone panels.

Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or trash may result in the release of toxic fumes and may poison

or otherwise render the catalytic combustor ineffective.

Burning cardboard, loose paper, and trash will add significantly to ash and soot build-up, and it will not produce much

heat. Fly ash from improper fuel can also coat or plug the combustor, causing smoke spillage into the room.

Under normal operating conditions, the Woodstock Soapstone Stove is designed to last for generations. It is not,

however, designed for continuous over-firing, or firing with coal, artificial logs or trash.

DO NOT BURN!

• UNSEASONED WOOD

• TREATED/PAINTED WOOD

• GARBAGE

• CARDBOARD

• SOLVENTS

• COLORED PAPER

• TRASH

• LAWN CLIPPING

• RUBBER PRODUCTS

• PLASTICS

• PETROLEUM PRODUCTS

• PAINT/PAINT THINNER

• MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS

• DRIFTWOOD

• ASPHALT PRODUCTS

• RAILROAD TIES

• MANURE/ANIMAL REMAINS

• PLYWOOD/PARTICLE BOARD

Wood can be stored and stacked

in a variety of structures both

simple and complex. The key to

success is to keep the wood dry,

exposed to as much sunlight as

possible, and to stack it in a way

which allows air to circulate

freely around it.

CATALYTIC COMBUSTORS

Here is how your catalytic combustor works.

The catalytic combustor is a stainless steel foil with hundreds of cells. Precious metals,

such as platinum, are sprayed on the inside of these cells to coat the steel foil. This

creates the surface area which interacts with the wood smoke. The catalytic combustor in

your stove is very similar to the one in the exhaust system of your automobile and works

to achieve the same results - high efficiency and clean air!

When you first start a fire, you should bypass your catalytic combustor and let the smoke go directly up the chimney.

Once wood smoke reaches 500º F internally (about 10-15 minutes after re-establishing a strong fire), it is hot enough to

ignite the catalytic combustor. As the wood smoke passes through the cells in the combustor, the smoke reacts with the

precious metals which line the inside of the honeycomb and both combustible gases and particles in the smoke ignite

and burn. This “catalytic burn” reduces emissions and also increases heat output from the stove.

Without a catalytic combustor, between 5% - 40% of the chemical energy contained in wood simply escapes up the

chimney when wood is burned. Energy laden gases are exhausted up the chimney where they pollute the air or may

condense on the inside of the chimney flue as creosote. The slower the burn, without a catalytic combustor, the greater

the amount of energy that is lost. A long smoldering fire is the least efficient use of energy in wood, yet it produces lots

of smoke, which is the fuel supply for the catalytic combustor.

Most of the chemical compounds in wood smoke are combustible. The catalyst produces

high temperatures, which loosen the bonds of these chemical compounds and “burns” wood

smoke. A stove that “burns” these compounds and uses smoke as additional fuel will burn

more efficiently and produce more heat, while reducing creosote and air pollution at the same

time. However, most stoves cannot consistently produce temperatures high enough to burn

cleanly, particularly during long burning times - hence the need for a catalytic combustor.

Your catalytic combustor can get the most efficiency out of every piece of wood if it has

three things: temperature, turbulence, and time.

1. Temperature. The catalytic combustor can only start burning the gases in the wood smoke

after the smoke has reached at least 500 degrees F. Before the smoke reaches that

temperature, it simply is not hot enough to start the reaction at the combustor. This will

result in an inefficient smoldering fire.

2. Turbulence. The wood smoke can interact best with the precious metals inside the foil

cells if there is some variation in the air flow. Increased turbulence enables more of the

wood smoke to come into contact with more cells. The exhaust path as well as the irregular surface of the combustor

cells adds needed turbulence.

3. Time. Once the temperature and turbulence are achieved, the catalytic combustor just

needs to have enough time to burn all the gases in the wood smoke. For this reason, it is

best to minimize the amount of air you allow into the firebox once the combustor is

ignited. Allowing too much air into the firebox speeds up the rate at which the fire burns.

The ideal air setting for a long catalytic burn allows enough air to keep the wood burning

and producing smoke.

With proper care, a new catalytic combustor will give years of fuel savings and lowered

emissions. By following some simple guidelines you can ensure maximum combustor performance and longevity. Your

catalytic combustor is designed to last for 12,000 -14,000 hours of use. You can ensure yourself of getting the maximum

life from your combustor by following these simple guidelines:

1) Burn only natural, well-seasoned wood.

2) Wait until the exhaust gases reach about 500 degrees F (internally), equals 250° externally, before engaging the

catalytic combustor (about 10-15 minutes after re-establishing a strong fire).

3) Bypass the combustor before reloading and leave the bypass open for a few minutes after reloading to raise

the temperature in the stove.

4) Don’t overfire the stove.

Cut-away drawing of the airflow

pattern. Air enters the firebox by

washing down over the window

and exits after going through the

combustor.

Stainless Steel Foil Catalytic Combustor

within a steel frame.

5) Clean the combustor regularly. See instructions below.

You can also obtain a lot of useful information by visiting our website, www.woodstove.com. Other very useful web

sites on all aspects of wood burning are, www.firewoodhoarders.com, www.hearth.com, www.woodheat.org and

www.csia.org. CSIA is the Chimney Safety Institute of America.

Inspection & Cleaning

Your stove comes with a new stainless steel combustor already installed. The

stainless combustor is a honeycomb foil block located under the top of your Fireview,

and is accessed through the top lid of the stove. Typical lifespan for a well maintained

catalytic combustor is 4-6 years. There are a few ways to determine if your combustor

needs to be cleaned. If you notice the smoke exiting your chimney is thicker and

darker in color, the combustor may need cleaning. Additionally, if you notice reduced

draft or backpuffing, or performance and heat output has diminished, then the

combustor may not be working as efficiently as designed.

The catalytic combustor is protected from ash build up by a high temperature alloy

screen. The screen should be cleaned at every combustor cleaning. Plan to clean and

inspect your catalytic combustor and screen about every 4-6 weeks. Any fly ash

deposits on the screen or combustor will need to be brushed or vacuumed off. An

accumulation of fly ash can reduce the draft, causing backpuffing, sluggish burning

and inefficient heating performance. You should clean and check your combustor &

screen before the heating season begins, as well as on a regular 4-6 week basis.

COMBUSTOR CLEANING

Tools needed: (1) work gloves and safety glasses; (2) 1/2” socket or box wrench, or adjustable wrench; (3) soft bristled

paint brush or vacuum cleaner (preferably one designed for ash removal).

1. Be sure the fire is out and the stove is cold. Even though the stove may be cold,

there may be some lingering embers in the ashes.

2. Open the top lid of your Fireview stove to access the catalytic combustor.

3. Using a 1/2” wrench or socket, remove the two bolts that hold the combustor

down to the gasket below.

4. Tilt the combustor at an angle to remove the combustor from the stove.

5. Once out, you can use a paint brush (or other soft bristled brush) or a vacuum

cleaner to remove any fly ash from both sides of the combustor. Never use

anything abrasive to clean the combustor. A vacuum cleaner may be used, but

never use high pressured (or compressed) air to blow the cells free of build-up. It

could strip the precious metal coating from the inside of the cells. Any cell

blockage can be removed with a pipe cleaner or a cotton swab. Vacuum the area

where the combustor is installed inside the stove.

6. Once cleaned, put the combustor back into place inside the stove, making sure

the two “ear tabs” on the right and left sides of the combustor, are at the top.

Reattach the (2) 2.25” bolts used to secure the combustor to the gasket below.

NOTE: A more thorough cleaning can be done as needed, by following the same

directions above. After the combustor is vacuumed or brushed off, rinse (or soak for 10-

15 minutes) the combustor with a mixture of 50% white vinegar & 50% distilled water.

After rinsing or soaking in the 50/50 mixture, rinse with distilled water. Allow the

combustor to dry before reinstalling in the stove.

You should now clean the metal screen (Scoop) located inside of the firebox,

under the catalytic combustor.

7. Open the side door. The top of the firebox (inside the stove) consists of a flat

stainless steel plate (K-801 Scoop Kit) with an attached metal screen. This screen

prevents direct flame from hitting the combustor and creates turbulence in the

exhaust stream. The scoop plate is held in place with two metal hair pin cotters that

feed through stainless steel posts. The scoop plate is also supported in the slot under

To clean the catalyst you will need a 7/16”

and a 1/2” wrench (or an adjustable wrench)

You should wear gloves and safety glasses.

You can clean the actual catalyst with a

vacuum cleaner.

To clean the combustor, (1) remove the two bolts

holding the catalyst in place. (2) Tilt the combus-

tor to remove it from the stove. (3) Brush both

sides of the combustor and (4) brush the baffle

and stainless steel screen below it.

Pull the two cotter pins on the underside of

the scoop plate to remove the screen/plate

assembly from the stove for cleaning.

the bypass damper toward the back of the stove.

10. Remove the two hair pin cotters. This will allow you to remove the scoop plate from the ceiling of the firebox.

11. You can now use a brush, vacuum, or rinse the screen to remove any ash that may have accumulated.

12. To reassemble, put the scoop/screen assembly back in place, taking care that the back edge of the scoop is wedged

in the slot under the bypass damper and push the scoop plate up to reveal the holes in the stainless posts. Push the

hair pin cotter through the posts so the pins are below the scoop plate/screen assembly. You are finished.

REPLACING A CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR

Tools needed: (1) work gloves and safety glasses; (2) 1/2” socket or box wrench, or adjustable wrench.

1. Be sure the fire is out and the stove is cold. Even though the stove may be cold, there may be some lingering embers

in the ashes.

2. Open the top lid of your Fireview stove to access the catalytic combustor.

3. Using a 1/2” wrench or socket, remove the two bolts that hold the combustor down to the gasket below.

4. Tilt the combustor at an angle to remove the combustor from the stove.

5. Set your replacement combustor in, making sure the two “ear tabs” for the bolts, are at the top of the combustor.

Secure the combustor with (2) 2.25” bolts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. How does the catalytic combustor work?

A. The catalytic combustor breaks the bonds that hold the chemicals contained in wood smoke together. The result is

that these chemicals begin to burn at temperatures of about 500 degrees F (the normal range of exhaust gas

temperatures). Without the catalytic combustor, wood smoke would have to be brought up to a temperature of 1000

to 1200 degrees F in order to start to burn. A stove with a catalytic combustor will generate up to 25% more heat

from each piece of wood, thus reducing the amount of fuel used during the year.

There are three advantages to burning the smoke created by burning wood. First, the smoke becomes another

source of fuel, giving you more heat from the same amount of wood. Second, creosote causing materials will be

burned up instead of being deposited in your chimney, reducing the risk of a chimney fire. Third, air pollution will

be drastically reduced.

Q. How can I tell if the catalytic combustor is working?

A. First - The best way to tell if the catalytic combustor is working is by observing the smoke coming out of your

chimney. If there is only a small amount of smoke, and/or it’s white in color, the catalytic combustor is working.

You will see significantly more smoke when the combustor is being bypassed than when the smoke is being burned

by the combustor.

Second - One very noticeable effect of a well functioning combustor is the high efficiency of your stove. Catalytic

combustors produce lots of heat, which the stove radiates into your home. If you notice that the stove is producing

less heat, or that a load of wood doesn’t provide as much warmth, under similar circumstances, as it did before, it’s

time to check the combustor. If and when the catalyst ceases to function properly, the stove will produce noticeably

less heat.

Third - Regular inspection of the connector pipe and chimney flue should show very little accumulation of soot and

creosote. Soot is typically brown and powdery when the combustor is working properly. Heavy buildup of black

sticky creosote may indicate the combustor is not functioning or needs cleaning.

Q. How do I maintain my catalytic combustor?

A. Combustors should be inspected and cleaned, if necessary, every 4-6 weeks during the heating season. When the

stove is cool, the combustor can be cleaned by thoroughly vacuuming or brushing both sides.

There is a metal screen in the top of the firebox, just in front of the bypass damper. This screen is made of an alloy

called inconel, and can withstand very high temperatures. Since the screen is in a very hot part of the exhaust path,

it incinerates most airborne fly ash, and prevents fly ash from reaching the catalytic combustor. If fly ash in its pure

mineral form ( calcium carbonate or magnesium oxide, for example) is left on the screen, you can remove these

mineral desposits by gently tapping on the front of the screen until the deposits becomes dislodged, brushing the

screen with a soft wire brush to dislodge the mineral deposits, or by soaking the screen in a vinegar/water bath for

roughly 10 minutes, rinse in fresh water, then reinstall. It is very important to keep the screen clean.

If the stove does not draft well when the catalytic combustor is engaged and the stainless steel screen is clean, then

the combustor cells themselves might be partially plugged with fly ash. If this is the case, follow the cleaning

procedure described in detail on page 17 of this manual.

Q. How will I know if the combustor is “worn out”?

A. There are three symptoms that will indicate that the catalyst in your stove may not be working: First, your stove

will generate noticeably less heat than it will when the catalyst is working. Second, you will notice a dramatic

increase in the amount of soot and/or creosote in your stovepipe or chimney. Third, the color of the smoke

produced by the stove will change. Smoke will appear black or brownish, instead of clear, white smoke (almost

steam) from a catalytic stove.

If you suspect that your catalyst is not working, let the stove cool down and clean the combustor and screen and try

it again.

Q. Is it all right to burn my stove hot daily to clean any build up in my chimney system?

A. It is not necessary to burn your stove hot daily to burn off any creosote build up in the chimney. This function is

performed by the catalytic combustor. It is there to reduce the emissions from the stove that contribute to deposits

in the connector pipe and chimney flue.

View more frequently asked questions and articles at our web site www.woodstove.com. Other very useful websites

on all aspects of wood burning are www.hearth.com, www.woodheat.org, and www.csia.org. CSIA is the Chimney

Safety Institute of America.

TWO OTHER IMPORTANT POINTS REGARDING CATALYTIC COMBUSTORS:

1) The combustor uses wood smoke as fuel. Most smoke is created in the early stages of the burn cycle. When a bed of

coals is all that remains of your wood, there is little smoke left to fuel the combustor, and it will no longer create

substantial amounts of heat. Hence, the temperatures on the surface thermometer tend to fall toward the end of the

burn, even though the firebox is full of hot coals. This does not mean that you have to reload the stove or open the

bypass. Let the hot coals burn down to ashes.

2) Since the combustor blocks the path of exiting smoke, it can reduce the draft in your stove. When draft is reduced by

warm or rainy weather, open the bypass damper longer when starting the stove to create more draft.

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR WARRANTY

Model #205 Fireview has a 5.25” x 10” rectangular catalytic combustor, which is made of corrugated stainless steel.

These combustors are manufactured by Clariant.

The Fireview catalytic combustor in Woodstock Soapstone Stoves have a three year unconditional warranty, with an

additional three years of pro-rated warranty. Warranty claims should be addressed to:

Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.

66 Airpark Road

West Lebanon, NH 03784

Phone: 1-800-866-4344 • Web: www.woodstove.com

Email: [email protected]

MAINTENANCE

Stove Cleaning

We use ceramic glass in our stoves because it has great impact and thermal shock resistance. Glass installed in the stove

fronts have full gaskets around the perimeter so there is no contact between the glass and the cast iron frame.

There are two panes of glass in each fireplace front, with an air-space between the two panes. This thermal-pane

arrangement helps keep the temperature on the inside of the glass higher, and prevents condensation and soot from

accumulating. The Fireview has a large glass area with an “air-wash” design, in which the primary air supply washes

over the front glass to assist in keeping the glass free of ash and soot.

The glass may soot up the first time you use the stove (from condensation already inside the stove). Don’t be alarmed!

As soon as you build up adequate temperatures with a hot fire, the glass will clean itself, the residue will burn off and it

will stay clean. Soot accumulation on the inside of the glass is more likely in the spring and fall, when temperatures are

very mild and you are less likely to maintain a hot fire.

To wipe fly ash off the inside of the glass, we recommend that you use a brush with soft bristles (like a paintbrush).

You can clean heavy soot from the glass with very fine steel wool (.0000 grade), but 1) be sure that the fire is out; and 2)

be sure that the glass has cooled to room temperature before you clean it. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN HOT GLASS.

Glass Cleaning

We use ceramic glass in our stoves because it is resistant to both impact and thermal shock. The panes of ceramic glass

installed in the stove fronts have full gaskets around the perimeter so there is no contact between the glass and the cast

iron frame.

There are two panes of glass in each fireplace front, with an air-space between the two panes. This “thermal-pane”

arrangement helps keep the temperature on the inside of the glass higher and prevents condensation and soot from

accumulating. The Keystone and Palladian have large glass areas and also have an “air-wash” design in which the

primary air supply washes over the front glass to assist in keeping the glass free of ash and soot.

The glass may soot up the first time you use the stove (from condensation already inside the stove). Don’t be alarmed!

Usually, as soon as you build up adequate temperature with a hot fire, the glass will clean itself. The residue will burn

off, and it will stay clean. Soot accumulation on the inside of the glass is more likely in the spring and fall, when

temperatures are very mild and you are less likely to maintain a hot fire.

To clean the inside of the glass or wipe off fly ash, we recommend that you use a brush with soft bristles (like a

paintbrush). You may clean heavy soot from the glass with very fine steel wool (.0000 grade), but first, be sure the fire is

out; and second, be sure that the glass has cooled to room temperature before you clean it.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN HOT GLASS.

Door Latch Adjustment

All Woodstock Soapstone Stoves have similar latches that can be easily adjusted as

required. If the gasketing on the side door becomes compressed, the latch has a set

screw that can be adjusted to take up the slack, maintaining the airtight seal around the

door. One good way to test whether the door seal is tight enough is the “dollar bill”

test. Hold a dollar bill in the door opening above the knob, close the door on it, and

tighten the latch. If you can pull the dollar bill back out easily, the latch is too loose

and needs to be adjusted..

To adjust the latch, loosen the lock nut on the back of the latch. Tighten the set screw a

turn or two, until the door closes tightly. Then tighten the lock nut so the set screw will

not move.

Gasket Replacement

There are five areas on your stove where you should check the gasket routinely: (1) on the side door, (2) under the

catalytic bypass damper, (3) under the catalytic combustor, (4) around the air duct cover perimeter, (5) and the top lid.

These five gaskets are the most important for maintaining high efficiency and clean burning. To check the gasket in areas

To adjust the door latch, shown here, loosen

the lock nut, turn the set screw in, and then

tighten the lock nut again. The point of the

set screw bears against the door frame, and

each turn of the set screw will pull the door

in tighter.

Lock Nut

Set Screw

that have a part that opens, and closes, close a slip of paper in these gasketed areas. There should be resistance as you

pull the paper out. If there is any evidence of deterioration and/or leaking in any of these areas or if any of the gasket

material in the stove becomes worn or frayed, it should be replaced. Please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company for

replacement gasket and replacement instructions.

The sizes of all the gaskets on your Fireview woodstove are included in the parts list in the Parts List Section.

Routine Checks

And End of Season Maintenance

Every few months of operation we recommend checking the chimney connector (stovepipe) and combustor (see

combustor section) and cleaning if necessary. If any of the gasket material in the stove becomes worn or frayed, it

should be replaced. Also inspect the cast iron parts to make sure that over-firing hasn’t occurred.

When the weather warms up and the burning season is over, it is a good idea to do a thorough spring cleaning and

inspection of your stove and combustor. We recommend a yearly service visit from a certified chimney sweep who will

look at the whole system, from top to bottom. Chimney safety is important for you and your family so you can fully

enjoy your stove without worrying. The best way to gain confidence in the safety of your Fireview is to have it serviced

and inspected once a year by a professional chimney sweep.

If you live in a climate with warm, humid summer weather, your stove may experience moisture build-up in the off

season. After cleaning the chimney and stove pipe block the flue pipe with fiberglass insulation which will wick up the

excess moisture and prevent discoloration of the stone.

Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal

WHEN WOOD IS BURNED SLOWLY, IT PRODUCES TAR AND OTHER

ORGANIC VAPORS, WHICH COMBINE WITH EXPELLED MOISTURE TO FORM

CREOSOTE. THE CREOSOTE VAPORS CONDENSE IN THE RELATIVELY COOL

CHIMNEY FLUE OF A SLOW-BURNING FIRE. AS A RESULT, CREOSOTE

RESIDUE ACCUMULATES ON THE FLUE LINING. WHEN IGNITED THIS

CREOSOTE MAKES AN EXTREMELY HOT FIRE. THE CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

AND THE CHIMNEY SHOULD BE INSPECTED AT LEAST ONCE EVERY TWO

MONTHS DURING THE HEATING SEASON TO DETERMINE IF A CREOSOTE

BUILDUP HAS OCCURED. IF CREOSOTE HAS ACCUMULATED IT SHOULD BE

REMOVED TO REDUCE THE RISK OF A CHIMNEY FIRE.

The most likely conditions for creosote to occur are: (1) when a large number of small

pieces of wood are added to a hot bed of coals and the damper is then completely closed;

(2) extremely long, smoldering fires, and; (3) burning wet or green wood.

Lack of combustion air and smoldering fires usually result in dense smoke and low

stack temperatures in the chimney connector and the chimney. Wet or green wood can

also produce dense smoke and excessive water vapor, which can quickly lead to creosote

buildup.

Creosote will accumulate faster in exterior chimneys than interior chimneys because of

colder outside temperatures.

There are three stages of creosote build-up. The first is a flaky, crystal-like

accumulation which can be removed with a brush. The second is a tar-like coating. The

third is a hard, glossy enamel-like coating that is difficult to penetrate. If your chimney

is heavily coated with tar or enamel-like creosote, we recommend that you consult with

an experienced chimney sweep about removal and prevention.

PREVENTION: Without question, the best way to treat creosote is to prevent its

accumulation. In order to reduce the danger of accumulation, we recommend the

following:

1. Burn only dry cordwood. Dry wood burns hotter and expels less moisture to

condense.

2. Use the catalytic combustor properly. It can reduce possible creosote accumulation

by as much as 90% and improve stove efficiency at the same time. Be sure to read

the section on catalytic combustors.

Professional chimney sweeps are trained

to inspect and clean chimneys.

3. Never operate your stove for extended periods of time with the draft control

completely closed. Both the wood fire and the catalytic combustor need oxygen to

burn efficiently.

4. Try to re-establish a hot fire, and re-ignite the combustor after every

reloading by opening the primary air control for about 10 minutes.

5. Check the catalytic combustor output. Use the thermometer provided with the

stove to be sure that the catalytic combustor is igniting properly when you kindle a

fire or reload the stove. The temperatures on the stove top should rise noticeably,

and pipe temperatures should drop, when the catalytic combustor becomes

engaged.

6. Avoid long, smoldering fires. Again, the catalytic combustor is critical here. Hot

firebox temperatures (with the stove top thermometer in the 400-600

range) will

produce more complete combustion and maintain proper catalytic activity.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Woodstock Soapstone Company’s Customer Service Representatives are available by phone Monday through Saturday

from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m Eastern. You can reach us by calling toll-free 1-800-866-4344 or e-mailing [email protected].

This troubleshooting guide is intended to help you understand more about the operation of your stove and to be a help-

ful, accessible resource for you.

The Quick Draft Test

Many stove performance problems are caused by poor draft. One of the first things to do

when diagnosing operational problems is to be sure that you have adequate draft. If you

perform the simple draft test that follows, it will often tell you where to look for a solution to

your operational problems. (If the draft is not good, you would look for problems (1) with

basic chimney specifications, (2) with obstructions inside the chimney, (3) with a tight seal

between the stovepipe and the chimney - especially in fireplace installations, (4) with wind, (5)

with negative house pressure, and so on. If the draft is good, you would generally look for

problems within the stove or with the operation of the stove - (1) a plugged combustor, (2)

plugged air passages, (3) wet or unseasoned wood, for example.) Here’s the test:

1. Perform The Match Test: Light a match in front of the flue outlet inside your stove. If the

flame is drawn toward the outlet and chimney, then you have adequate draft to light your

stove. If the flame doesn’t move or is leaning toward you, you do not have enough draft and need to correct this

situation before starting a fire.

2. How To Improve Draft Before Re-Testing: Open a door or window in the room where the stove is installed. Wait a

minute or two, then light a match again in front of the flue outlet. The flame should be pulled into the flue opening. If

this doesn’t work, light a small piece of rolled up newspaper and hold it in front of the flue outlet. This should warm the

chimney enough to establish proper draft. If this does not work, you have a draft problem. DO NOT light the stove,

because you will simply get smoke back into the room. Read carefully the grid below, and try to determine the source of

the draft problem. Feel free to call us for help at 800-866-4344. Our toll free customer service help line is open from 9 to

5, (E.T.) Monday through Saturday.

Stove Smokes At Start Up Bypass door or air damper is closed. Check that air control and bypass

damper are both open (both

handles all the way down).

Chimney is blocked.

Warm the flue with burning newspaper or a

hair dryer and re-check draft with match.

Flue is cold.

Negative pressure in room. Turn off exhaust fans, open

window in the room, then do the

match test.

Flue is too large.

Prime the chimney by burning

newspaper in the flue.

Stove Puffs Smoke When

Combustor Is Engaged

Combustor is plugged. Let the stove cool down and clean

the combustor.

Not enough air for the fire. Increase the amount of air coming into

the stove by opening air damper.

Troubleshooting Grid:

Use this grid to help identify the cause and solution for common woostove problems.

Problem Cause Solution

Clear chimney and cap of

obstructions.

Install a liner that mathces the stove’s flue

outlet. A 6” liner is recommended for the

Fireview.

Small difference between outdoor

and indoor temperatures.

Always perform the “Match

Test” before lighting your stove.

If you light a match and hold it

in front of the flue exit, the flame

will be pulled into the flue collar

if there is enough draft to light

the stove.

Warping Or Breaking Of

Cast Iron Parts

Overfiring as a result of

compensating for wet wood.

Burn dry cordwood.

Overfiring - too much primary air. After kindling a fire and getting the

internal

firebox temperature to 500°

(250° on stovetop or about 250°-300°

on stovepipe), engage the combustor

by bringing the bypass handle up and

reduce the air damper to 1. You

should see the bright yellow flames

slow down and become more orange

in color. Make fine adjustments to

your damper (moving it closer to 0 in

1/8 to 1/4 inch increments) until you

achieve this slower moving, darker

flame.

Overfiring after reloading firebox.

Note: The cast iron parts in your stove are high quality class 30 grey iron.

They will withstand normal operating temperatures of up to 1400 degrees,

internally, ( or roughly up to 700° surface temperature). When iron parts

become warped or heavily oxidized (reddish-brown in color, with a rough

surface), it is evidence that they have been repeatedly exposed to

temperatures above 1400 degrees.

After reloading the firebox, let the

internal

firebox temperature come up

to the 500° mark (250° on stovetop or

about 250°-300° on stovepipe) before

re-engaging the combustor and re-

adjusting your air control as above.

Stove Smokes Occasionally/

Erratically

Wind forcing smoke down

chimney.

Increase height of chimney or install

a wind cap.

Negative pressure in the home. Turn off exhaust fans, open a

window in the room, consider

solving pressure problems with an

HVAC professional.

Inadequate draft. Increase the amount of air coming

into the stove by opening air damper.

Wet wood. Use smaller pieces of dry split wood.

Flue is too large.

Multiple inlets to chimney.

Install a liner that mathces the stove’s

flue outlet. A 6” liner is recommended

for the Fireview.

Connect stove to a chimney that only

has one appliance per flue. Block

other inlets properly.

Problem Cause Solution

Combustor Not Glowing Late stage in burning cycle.

The combustor does not need to glow

to be working. Check smoke exiting

from chimney to ensure combustor is

working properly.

Window Dirty

Air flow restricted.

Check air gap at top of stove window

inside stove. There should be 1/4”

gap between glass and edge of cast

iron. A smaller gap may cause

window to soot.

Smoldering fire. Open air control in 1/4 inch

increments until some slow flames

appear. Run hot fire to burn smoke

off the glass. Or, remove build-up

with glass cleaner when stove is cold.

Problem Cause Solution

Stove Burning Too Hot Or Too Fast Excessive air fueling fire. Adjust air control on stove.

Check gaskets with dollar bill test

(close the door on a dollar bill. If

you can pull the bill out between

the door and gasket, the seal is too

loose) on loading door, bypass

door, top lid. Replace gaskets if

necessary.

Consider installing pipe damper

in chimneys with excessive draft.

Check the air damper plate under

the rear flue exit. Make sure the

damper plate is not lifted off its

track. If it is, with a gloved hand,

gently push the plate up and rest

it back into the slide track.

Stove Not Burning Hot Enough Combustor not firing. Follow instructions for starting fire

and make sure firebox is up to 500

before engaging combustor. Once

combustor is engaged, set air

control at 1 and leave alone.

Wet wood. Test stove by making a fire with wood

that is kiln dried (available at

supermarkets or Woodstock Soapstone).

Heat going up chimney. Test by attaching thermometer to

stovepipe. Temperature on stovepipe

should register 200º - 300º while

combustor is engaged. Consider

installing pipe damper.

Acrid Odor During First Burn

Water Leaking From Chimney

Stovepipe installed incorrectly.

Paint curing/window gasket curing.

Open windows and try to leave

house during first several burns

until paint/gasket is cured.

Rain coming down chimney

without a cap.

Install a cap on chimney.

Install stovepipe crimped end

down to allow condensation to run

back inside the stovepipe and stove

instead of running down outside of

pipe.

New masonry chimney curing. Burn several fires without using

combustor in order to heat inside of

new chimney and cure masonry

completely.

Failure of seal on storm collar. If water is leaking along outside of

pipe, most likely rain is getting

through between storm collar and

chimney pipe. Re-caulk.

Is my Combustor still working?

Your catalytic combustor is viable for 12,000 to 14,000 burn hours. This translates, roughly, into a life span of 4 -6

years. If the catalytic coating is not working as it should, it is not burning the gas vapors in the smoke and there-

fore, the smoke exiting your chimney will be darker in color. If your draft is sluggish and you have ruled out any

draft related issues in the venting or in the wood supply, your combustor may not be burning the smoke vapors

and too much volume is trying to pass through the honeycomb at one time. If heat output is diminished, and any

other factors are ruled out, that may also be a sign that the catalytic combustor is not burning the smoke vapors,

therefore not extracting maximum heat from available btu’s in the wood you are burning.

SAFETY

Overview

To gain maximum enjoyment and benefit from your stove, you must have a safe installation. All guidelines found in

this manual should be adhered to. All local and national building codes need to be followed. Having a certified installer

perform all connections to an inspected chimney system is strongly advised. If you choose to perform any or all of this

work yourself, it must be inspected by either a Certified Wood Stove Specialist or a Certified Chimney Specialist.

You will often find the local Fire Department to be very knowledgeable. They may inspect your house for proper warn-

ing devices, fire extinquishers and evacuation routes. Keep their phone number handy. Although many communities uti-

lize Fire Department personnel for woodstove installation inspections, they are not usually trained as combustion vent-

ing specialists. Generally, you are best advised to use a certified specialist. The sense of security that comes with a prop-

erly installed and maintained system is worth far more than its cost.

Installation

Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove has been thoroughly tested and listed to UL #1482 by an independent testing labora-

tory. UL #1482 is the standard for testing solid fuel appliances and is universally recognized by all national building reg-

ulatory agencies, (SBCC, BOCA, ICBO) and individual states. Your woodstove is a safe product, but it must be installed

in accordance with the instructions in this manual. Woodstoves themselves rarely cause fires, but improper installation or

careless operation are often to blame.

Follow the guidelines in the Installation chapter of this manual with regard to:

• Proper chimney and connector pipe

• Clearances to combustible surfaces and objects

• Floor protection

Smoke and the Chimney

According to www.woodheat.org, “The chimney is the engine that drives a wood heat system”. To have a safe system

you must have:

• The correct type of chimney

• The correct size of chimney

• Correct location inside the house

• A properly installed system

Smoke spilling into the living space when starting a fire is an inconvenience. Smoke spilling into the house when you

are away or asleep can be a major problem. In order to have all the smoke go up the chimney all the time, the chimney

must have positive draft. Ideally, this draft is between 10-18 pascals, or .04-.07 inches water column, (a pressure measure-

ment), when there is no fire in the stove. A certified installer can perform a simple draft test for this.

Heat

Your stove is HOT to the touch! Utilizing the fall away handle and use of heat resistant or insulated stove gloves can

prevent serious burns when opening or closing the door or ash pan, of your stove.

Ash removal

Convenient and safe ash removal is a necessity for trouble free wood burning. An ash removal container should have:

•A comfortably large capacity

•Good stability

•A top that closes securely and will not fall off

•Legs or other means of preventing downward heat flow

•A design that prevents spilling when loading

Ashes should never be dumped into a combustible container, such as a cardboard box, and an ash container should

never be set on a combustible floor. Hot embers in the ashes can often stay viable for 36 hours or longer after removal

from your stove.

Precautions

•Smoke detectors: A smoke detector is inexpensive insurance and is required by most localities. They can either work

on batteries, or can be hard-wired into your electrical system. If you have battery operated detectors, it is a good idea

to replace batteries on an annual basis (i.e.: every New Year’s day, or 4th of July, etc). They will sound an audible

alarm in the event of the presence of smoke. Smoke will almost always precede a wood-fueled fire.

•Fire Extinguisher: If you burn wood, you should have at least one ABC dry chemical extinguisher. The chemical

extinguisher is preferable to water because the application of cold water to hot metal stove pipes can cause metal

parts to buckle or crack, adding more air to the fire.

•Carbon Monoxide Detector: These operate in a manner similar to smoke detectors but are usually user calibrated

and record minute quantities on a digital readout before sounding an audible alarm. The chances of carbon monoxide

being created and escaping from your properly installed and operated stove are miniscule. You may have other vent

ed appliances in your home that could be potential problems. The investment in a high quality carbon monoxide

detector is well worth its cost in the peace of mind it affords.

•Chimney inspection: Your connector pipe and chimney, or chimney pipe, should be inspected at regular intervals.

Examine the connector pipe for creosote, corrosion, loose seams, or excessive soot. Clean and replace as necessary. The

chimney, or chimney pipe, should be cleaned and checked by a certified specialist once a year. A small mirror held at

the cleanout door of a masonry chimney will be helpful. For a class A prefabricated metal pipe, some disassembly is

usually required.

Emergency Procedures In The Event of a Chimney Fire:

If you have a chimney fire or runaway fire follow these safety precautions:

1. Close the draft damper immediately, with a slow and even motion. This cuts off the supply of oxygen to the stove.

2. Call the fire department immediately.

3. Get everyone out of the house. One adult should stay in the house to check for sparks and signs of fire. Those out-

side should watch the roof for signs of fire.

4. If there is a danger of a fire, discharge the fire extinguisher into the stove. Do not pour or spray water directly into

the chimney as rapid contraction caused by the application of cold water could cause the tile liner in the chimney to

crack.

5. After the fire is out, check the stove, chimney connector, and chimney carefully for signs of damage. The entire sys-

tem should be thoroughly inspected by a certified chimney professional.

Note: Chimney fires must be put out from the bottom. The entire system must be air tight to suffocate a fire; hence the

importance of having a tight cover on the chimney cleanout and not venting two appliances into a single flue.

The length of time it takes to bring a chimney fire under control depends on the amount of fuel in the stove, the rate at

which it is burning and the amount of oxygen available to it. The faster it is brought under control the less severe any

damage is likely to be.

Gasket List

Part #

Desc. Location Density Amount

21063 .375” gasket Loading Door LD1 3 Feet

21066 .500” gasket Bypass Frame LD1 3 Feet

21085 .250” gasket Under Combustor LD2 3 Feet

21209 .75” flat adhesive Window Gasket 11 Feet

21085 .250” gasket Air Duct Cover Perimeter LD2 7 Feet

21066 .500”gasket Top Lid Gasket LD1 7 Feet

21209 .75” flat adhesive (in half) Air Duct Cover Sandwich 6 Feet

W-1800 Furnace Cement 1 Tube

W-1605a Gasket Glue .5 oz bottle

205 FIREVIEW PARTS LIST

Cast Iron Parts

W-174 Fallaway Handle

W-3 Legs

W-80a Door Frame

W-1 Base

W-159 Front Panel

W-161 Flue Collar

W-162 Rear Frame

W-70 Top Frame

W-50 Top Support

W-60 Top

W-90a Door

W-91/92 Door Knob & Latch Kit

W-2 Corner

W-158 Glass Retainer

W-175 Spacer (pair)

W-176 Andirons

W-160 Combustor Pan

W-163 Air Duct Cover

W-164 Bypass Frame

W-167 Instruction Plate

W-170 Damper

W-177 Damper Handle

W-178 Bypass Lift Guide

W-253 Bypass Cover

W-172 Air Guide/Air Chute

W-168 Bypass Retainer (pair)

All cast iron parts designed by Woodstock

Soapstone Company

Steel/Sheet Metal Parts

K-530-SS Stainless Steel Catalyst (5.25”x10”x2”x49 cpsi)

K-801 Stainless Steel Scoop Assembly

W-801 Scoop plate & screen

W-2601 Scoop Post w/ thru holes

W-2593 Cotter Pins

W-2591 Bypass Actuator Handle

W-181 Combustor Heat Deflector

W-169 Stainless Bypass Shaft

W-179 U Bolt

W-171 Damper Link

W-293 V-Pocket

W-306 Bottom Heat Shield

W-312 Window Clips

W-2513 Hinge Pins

W-2471 Tie Rods (4)

All steel parts manufactured by Woodstock Soapstone Company

Soapstone Parts

#pcs

W-10 Exterior Left Side Stone 1

W-11a Exterior Top Stone 2

W-12a Exterior Over Glass 1

W-12b Exterior Under Front 1

W-13a Exterior Over Door 1

W-13b Exterior Under Door 1

W-14fv Exterior Back Stone 1

W-15 Exterior Corner Stone 4

W-17 Interior Side Stone 1

W-18fv Interior Back Stone 1

W-19 Interior Under Front Stone 1

W-20a Interior Over Door Stone 1

W-20b Interior Under Door Stone 1

W-21 Interior Corner Stone 8

All soapstone parts cut and fabricated by Woodstock Soapstone Company

Other Parts

W-205E Glass 9.375”x13.5”x 5mm- Pyroceram III

W-2000 Firebrick 9”x4.5”x1.25”

W-2404 Black Phenolic Knob

8” Probe Thermometer

Surface Thermomometer

Fireview 205 Soapstone Parts and Firebrick

DIMENSIONS & SPECIFICATIONS

H x W x D ............................28”x 26”x 20”

Flue Exit................................Back Only

Flue Size............................................ 6”

Flue Height to Center (Back Vent)............22.75”

Weight.....................................485 lbs.

Loading Door...................Right Side Standard

Loading Door Size (HxW)................10.5”x8.25”

Wood Length (Recommended)..................16”

Firebox (H/W/D in inches) ..........13”x12.5”x20”

Firebox Size..........................1.85 Cubic ft.

Burn Time................................10-12 hrs.

Heat Output Range..........7,606 - 46,460 BTU/hr

Area Heated.......................900-1,600 sq. ft.

EPA Certified (Meets 2020 standards)...........Yes

Listed to UL 1482..............................Yes

EPA Emissions Rating................1.12 grams/hr

EPA Efficiency (HHV).........................83.6%

EPA Efficiency (HHV).........................77.7%

Catalytic Combustor .....................Standard

Ash Pan......................................N/A

Back Clearance (no protection)..................30”

Back Clearance (w/Heat Shield Kit) ............18”

Side Clearance.................................18”

Mobile Home Approved.......................Yes

3/4

”

26”

28”

20”

18”

24”

outside, leg to leg

Woodstock Soapstone 205 FIREVIEW WOOD STOVE Wood Stove

Product's Documents

OWNER’S MANUAL

Specifications

Woodstock Soapstone 205 Questions and Answers

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