WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE STOVES
OWNER’S MANUAL
KEYSTONE
MODEL 204
PALLADIAN
MODEL 202
Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.
66 Airpark Road, West Lebanon, NH 03784
Toll Free 1-800-866-4344 • www.woodstove.com
Rev 0320
Tested To UL 1482-2011 7th Edition
Listed By PFS Corporation
Model 204 Keystone
Model 202 Palladian
Tested and Listed by
OUR PROMISE
We are sure you will enjoy your new stove. During the first six months
that you own it, test its performance and experience the comfortable
warmth of soapstone. If you are not thoroughly delighted with the
beauty, quality, and energy efficiency of your stove, you may return it for
a full refund, including the cost of return freight. This is the best con-
sumer protection plan in the industry.
EPA APPROVAL
This Manual describes the installation and operation of: 202 Palladian
Catalytic Soapstone Stove & 204 Keystone Catalytic Soapstone Stove .
Model 202 Palladian Catalytic Soapstone Stove & 204 Keystone
Catalytic Soapstone Stove meet the U.S. Environmental Protection
Agency’s cordwood emission standard for wood heaters sold after May
15, 2020. Under specific test conditions, this stove has been shown to
deliver heat at rates ranging from 9,989 to 46,437 BTU/hr., and average
emissions of 0.85 grams/hr.
The Keystone/Palladian model contains a catalytic combustor, which
needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper operation. It is
against the law to operate this woodstove in a manner inconsistent with
the operating instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic element is
deactivated or removed.
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that
must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting
or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with
operating instructions in this manual.
LISTING TO UL #1482
Model 202 Palladian Catalytic Soapstone Stove & 204 Keystone
Catalytic Soapstone Stove has been tested to UL Standard #1482 7th
edition 2011 for safety, and is listed by PFS Corporation. UL Standard
#1482 is the standard for testing solid fuel heating appliances which is
universally recognized by all national building regulatory agencies
(SBCC, BOCA, ICBO) and individual states.
Please Note: Tested and Listed for US installations only
LIMITED WARRANTY
Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove will be carefully inspected before ship-
ment. We will replace any part which is defective in material or workman-
ship, free of cost, for a period one year from the date of purchase. If a defect
is discovered, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc. for
instructions regarding return or replacement of the defective part.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR
WARRANTY
The catalytic combustor in your Keystone/Palladian Woodstove is fully
warranted for three years from the date of purchase against any defect in
workmanship or materials that prevent the combustor from functioning
when installed and operated properly. The catalytic combustor is addi-
tionally warranted for three years from the date of purchase for any
deterioration in the stainless steel substrate material. For instructions
regarding return or replacement of the catalytic combustor, please con-
tact:
Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.
66 Airpark Road
West Lebanon, NH 03768
Phone: 1-800-866-4344 • Web: www.woodstove.com
Tested and Listed by
MODEL 204 KEYSTONE &
MODEL 202 PALLADIAN CATALYTIC
TABLE OF CONTENTS
WARRANTY INFORMATION/CERTIFICATIONS............ Inside Cover
EPA Certification, UL Listing, Warranty, Catalytic Combustor Warranty
INSTALLATION......................................... .............. 1-12
Installation, Location, Chimneys, Fireplace Installation, Clearance Table, Wall
Protection, Floor Protection, Mobile Home Installation
OPERATION............................................................13-16
Setting up Your Stove, Seasoning Your Stove, Starting a Fire and Establishing
Draft, Engaging the Catalytic Combustor, Reloading & Overnight Burning, Ash
Removal, Surface Thermometer, Overfiring, Daily Use, The Fall Away Handle,
Firewood
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR........................................ 17-21
How your Combustor Works, Inspection & Cleaning, Replacement, Catalytic
Probe Thermometer, Frequently Asked Questions, Catalytic Combustor
Warranty Information
MAINTENANCE..................................................... 22-24
Stove, Stone & Glass Cleaning, Gasket Replacement, Routine Checks, End Of
Season Maintenance, Creosote
TROUBLESHOOTING............................................... 25-27
SAFETY................................................................. 28-29
Overview, Installation, Smoke & The Chimney, Heat, Ash Removal,
Precautions, Emergency Procedures
PARTS LIST & DIAGRAMS......................................... 30-33
SPECIFICATIONS................................................... Back Cover
INSTALLATION
For over two centuries, New Englanders have heated their homes with soapstone stoves. A properly installed and
operated soapstone stove will warm your home and delight your eye for a lifetime.
Read this entire manual carefully. It explains how to install your Woodstock Soapstone Keystone or Palladian
Wood Stove safely and how to operate it correctly and efficiently. The clearances and procedures recommended in
this guide are in compliance with the recommendations of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), the
Underwriters Laboratories (UL), and the U. S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). You may feel some of them
are very stringent, but they should be followed. They were designed to protect you, your home, and the
environment. Improper installations are a major cause of serious fires. Failure to follow instructions may result in
property damage, bodily injury, or death.
Before installing a woodstove, check your local building codes and any requirements established by your insurance
company.
You may need a local building permit to install your stove. Any changes in your home must comply with building
codes. If the codes have not been fully updated, you may want to check with the Building Inspection Department or
your local Fire Department. A qualified stove installer should be aware of any changes and updates to local and state
codes and may be best suited to handle your installation work.
Many chimney sweeps are qualified installers. If you are unfamiliar with sweeps or need to locate a certified sweep
in your area, you can check listings at www.csia.org (Chimney Safety Institute of America). Builders and contractors
are another option. In some cases, homeowners install their own stoves. Before installing your stove, please review
carefully the stove installation, clearance, and safety information in this manual. Woodstock Soapstone has NFI
(National Fireplace Institute) certified woodburning specialists on staff and available to answer any questions you
may have about your installation. If you have questions, please call us toll free at 1-800-866-4344.
You should notify your insurance company that you are using a woodstove. Before you light your first fire, have a
local building inspector and your insurance representative inspect, and approve in writing, your installation.
LOCATION
A stove which is centrally located will heat the greatest area of your home. Heat
should be able to circulate easily into nearby rooms. Placing your stove near an open
stairway or register in the floor will help transfer heat to other rooms.
Other installation considerations are:
•Clearance to Combustibles
•Adequate Space for Wood Loading and Ash Removal
•Room Traffic Patterns
Most people install their stove in a room they use frequently where they can enjoy the
beauty and comfort of the stove. This also helps in ease of monitoring and reloading
the stove as needed.
A well planned placement will enhance your enjoyment of your stove and may save
installation costs.
The best location for a chimney and
woodstove is in the center of the
house. The chimney will be
warmer, draft will be better, and
radiant heat will be distributed
more evenly.
ALCOVE INSTALLATIONS
The Model 202 & 204 Palladian & Keystone Wood Stoves are not
approved for an alcove installation.
An alcove is described as an area less than 512 cubic feet, which is equivalent to an 8’x8’x8’ space.
CHIMNEYS
Your chimney is a critical component of your wood heating system. A properly designed and constructed chimney will
help to provide safe and efficient woodstove operation. Hot exhaust rising up through the chimney also pulls combus-
tion air into the stove through the air damper. If a chimney is too short, or the flue too large, the hot exhaust will cool
and slow down. This can lead to poor stove performance, smoke spillage, back puffing, and even creosote build up in
the chimney itself. An excessively tall chimney could lead to a strong draft, which may make the fire difficult to control
with the stove damper. This could result in over firing the stove and lead to damage to the cast iron components as well
as the catalytic combustor. Whether you are installing a new chimney, or adapting an existing chimney to your wood-
stove, close attention to chimney height, flue size, and location should be considered.
Chimney Flue Sizing:
Keystone and Palladian stoves have 7” flue collars and are approved for the use of 7” or
6” vent pipe. If upsizing needs to occur due to an existing chimney the following general
rules apply:
1. Interior Chimney (no walls of the chimney exposed to the outside below the roofline):
the inside cross-sectional area of your chimney should be no more than 3x the cross-
sectional area of the woodstove flue collar.
2. Exterior Chimney (if there are one or more walls exposed to the outside below the
roofline) - The flue should be no more than 2x the cross-sectional area of the flue collar.
Recommendation: Woodstock Soapstone recommends the Keystone and Palladian wood
stoves, with either the 6” or 7” flue collar, a maximum of 8 inch x 10 inch rectangular or
10 inch round flue tile for an inside chimney . For an outside chimney, an 8 inch x 8 inch
square or 8 inch round would be the largest recommended. The smallest size we recom-
mend is 6 inches round. DO NOT VENT THE PALLADIAN OR KEYSTONE INTO A
CHIMNEY OF LESS THAN 6 INCHES IN DIAMETER.
Note: For flues that exceed the recommended area, a stainless steel chimney liner is rec-
ommended.
Height Requirements:
The chimney must extend 3 ft. above the point where it passes through the roof and
must also be 2 ft. higher than any roof surface or obstruction within 10 feet (measured
horizontally) of the chimney. You should check your local building codes for any other
requirements.
The recommended minimum
chimney height is 15 feet from the flue collar of the stove to the top of the chimney. This
includes connector pipe and chimney pipe. There may be other factors to conform to code for clearances on the roof,
high wind, high altitude, etc., that may make the minimum height undesirable or a violation of
building codes.
CHIMNEY TYPES
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
There are two acceptable types of chimneys: Lined Masonry Chimneys and Class A, Pre-fabricat-
ed Metal Chimneys rated to 2100° F. Masonry chimneys must meet all applicable codes for a
safe installation.
Lined Masonry Chimneys:
Always have the chimney inspected prior to your stove installation. If your chimney is not lined
with appropriately sized clay flue tiles, or the clay tiles are old, cracked, damaged or otherwise
compromised, a stainless steel chimney liner or poured liner will be required. Depending on the
condition of your flue or clay tiles, the stainless steel liner may need to be wrapped in a high
temperature insulation blanket. A liner may also be recommended if your flue is too large for the
draft to flow properly (please refer to the section on chimney sizing). Our customer service
department can answer any questions regarding the use of a liner and/or insulating blanket.
Call 1-800-866-4344.
Existing chimneys should be checked twice a year for obstructions, creosote deposits, surface
cracks, chemical deterioration and poor construction. Any damage should be repaired immedi-
ately. Two other chimney related areas that should be checked are chimney penetrations at the
floor or ceiling joists, and at the roofline. There should be at least 2 inches of clearance between
Installing a Stainless Steel
Liner in a Masonry Chimney
Chimneys must
extend a minimum
of 3’ above roof
penetration...
... and a minimum of 2’
above the highest point
within 10’.
Terra Cotta Tile Lined
Masonry Chimney
the chimney and floor joists or other combustible materials. Poor flashing between the chimney
and the roof line can cause leaks and deterioration of chimney mortar.
You should make preliminary checks, but if you have any doubts, or are unfamiliar with chim-
ney construction, cleaning, or maintenance, have a local fire official or certified chimney profes-
sional inspect your chimney. If repairs are required, be sure to use someone who is knowledge-
able in chimney work and familiar with local code requirements.
In addition: All brick or cinder block chimneys should have clean out access with a tight fit-
ting door. Masonry chimneys should have a wash at the top. All chimneys should have a cap to
keep out rain and snow and to minimize downdrafts caused by wind.
Passing Through A Combustible Wall:
With an exterior chimney, in most cases the chimney connector (or stove pipe) will need to pass through a combustible
wall. The following are acceptable methods:
A. Use a section of Solid Insulated Prefabricated Metal Chimney to connect to the chimney - Use a section of insulated
prefabricated 2100° Class A chimney pipe listed to UL 103 HT (at least 1” of insulation or greater) the same inside diameter
as the stove pipe and maintain a 9” air space between the wall of the prefabricated chimney and the combustible wall. This
section of chimney pipe can be supported by a sheet metal plate securely fastened to the combustible wall, with a hole cut in
the middle of it. This will close the gap around the chimney pipe and the framed opening. (See Diagram A Below)
B. Build a solid brick surround around a tile liner - Frame a 3.5” thick brick surround into the combustible wall you need to
pass through. Maintain a minimum 12” brick separation from the clay liner to combustibles. The minimum 5/8” thick clay
liner should be cemented in place and run from the outer surface of the brick to the inner surface of the chimney. (See
Diagram B Below)
C. There are also UL Listed kits available that are specifically designed for passing through a combustible wall. For more
information on these kits, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company. Please note: there are several UL listed wall pass
through kits available, always follow the manufacturers specific installation instructions. (See Diagram C Below)
For other methods, please refer to NFPA 211.
REMEMBER, UNPROTECTED SINGLE OR DOUBLE WALL STOVE PIPE SHOULD NOT PASS THROUGH A COMBUSTIBLE WALL OR CEILING TO
CONNECT TO THE CHIMNEY
. YOU MUST USE AN APPROVED METHOD WHICH PROVIDES GREATER PROTECTION THAN SINGLE OR
DOUBLE WALL PIPE
.
Prefabricated Metal Chimneys:
For high efficiency, freestanding woodstoves, like your Woodstock Soapstone stove, a Prefabricated
Metal Chimney must be listed as Class A and carry a UL Listing of 103 HT (high temperature). The
“UL 103 Type HT Class A” prefabricated chimney will have a temperature rating of 2,100° F.
There are prefabricated chimney systems that are approved to 1,700° F and are generally used with
fireplace inserts or factory built fireplaces. These ARE NOT suitable for use with your Woodstock
Soapstone stove.
At the point of the first penetration of a combustible surface (i.e., wall or ceiling) all subsequent venting components
need to be prefabricated “UL Type HT Class A”. If your prefabricated chimney goes through a living space it must be
enclosed, and that enclosure must conform to clearance standards for the prefabricated chimney. Your chimney must
pass through your roof and extend above the roof line in accordance with code standards. Please refer to height require-
ments on Page 2.
Connecting your stove to a
masonry thimble.
The minimum clearance for a single wall
metal stovepipe and terra cotta thimble at the
chimney connection is 12”
A.
Using a Prefabricated Metal Chimney section
to connect to an existing masonry chimney
located behind a combustible wall
Use a UL listed and approved wall pass thru kit.
B.
Refractory
Cement
Insulated
section of
factory built
chimney
Sheet
Steel
Supports
9”
9”
9”
9
Refractory
Cement
Fireclay Thimble
12”
12”
12”
12
Stainless Steel
Connector
C.
UL listed
insulated
thimble
Minimum required
air space
Listed wall
protector &
cover shield
UL 103 HT Stainless
Chimney Connection
PREFABRICATED CHIMNEY CONFIGURATIONS
The diagrams below represent the most common and acceptable installations using prefabricated chimney pipe. The nec-
essary components are listed and shown in their appropriate locations. These components are Class A listed to U.L.
103HT (tested to 2100 degrees F.) Only components listed to UL 103HT can be used to install your wood stove.
Installation instructions are described below as examples only. More detailed instructions are available through
Woodstock Soapstone or the pipe manufacturer. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFIC INSTALLA-
TION INSTRUCTIONS.
Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof
First, determine where the stove will be placed. Pay close attention to all required
clearances for the stove and connector pipe. Next, use a plumb line to locate the
Finish Ceiling Support in the ceiling above. Cut the appropriate sized hole in the
ceiling and frame in the necessary supports to secure the ceiling support. Install the
pipe adapter onto the first section of chimney pipe, and lower them into the Ceiling
support. Use an insulation shield in the attic to keep any insulation away from the
pipe. If the attic is a living space the chimney pipe must be fully enclosed. As the
pipe extends through the roof, install the appropriate flashing and storm collar to
keep the weather out. As the height of the chimney increases to meet code, it may be
necessary to install a roof brace (typically recommended at 5’ intervals). All chim-
neys should have the appropriate cap installed at the top to reduce wind and weath-
er related downdrafts as well as deter any animals from building nests. The connec-
tor pipe should extend from the flue collar of the stove to the pipe adapter at the
ceiling support. The male (crimped) end should always point down toward the stove. Be sure that each joint has enough
overlap for a secure connection. All connections should be fastened with screws, including at the flue collar and pipe
adapter. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation instructions)
Installation 2- Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof
Determine where the stove will be placed. Be sure all clearance requirements are
satisfied. Choose the appropriate support for your installation (Support box or Roof
support package). Use a plumb line to locate the support in the ceiling above. Cut
the appropriate sized hole in the ceiling and install the necessary framing to secure
the support. Install the support according to its specific instructions.. Be sure that
the support hangs down below the ceiling far enough to maintain proper clearance
to the connector pipe (steeper slopes require more pipe below the ceiling). Install
the pipe adapter to the first section of chimney pipe and lower it into the support
box (or connect it to the bottom of the roof support). As the pipe extends through
the roof install the appropriate roof flashing and storm collar. Install the proper
chimney pipe lengths to meet code and recommended chimney height. It may be
necessary to install a roof brace for stability. Always install the appropriate cap to
the top of the chimney. Double wall connector pipe is recommended for installa-
tions that have 10’ or more from the stove to the chimney. Be sure that all joints in
the connector pipe are secure and fastened with screws, including at the flue collar and chimney pipe adapter. (Please
refer to the manufacturers full set of installation instructions)
Installation 3- Through the wall
This installation requires the use of an insulated wall thimble to penetrate a com-
bustible wall. Typically a 9”-12” chimney pipe and pipe adapter will pass through
the thimble and make the connection between the interior connector pipe and an
insulated tee with a clean out on the outside of the bulding. The tee and chimney
rising up from it rest on a wall support designed to bear the weight of the chimney.
Install lateral supports as specified as the chimney rises along the exterior wall. The
appropriate flashing and storm collar should be installed if the chimney penetrates
an eave or overhang. An offset of 15 or 30 degrees may also be used to go around an
overhang. As the chimney extends above the roof to meet code it may be necessary
to install a roof brace. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation
instructions).
Stovepipe (Connector Pipe):
Connector pipe is either single wall (sheet metal) or double wall (sheet metal outer pipe with a stainless steel inner
pipe). We strongly recommend 22 gauge pipe (26 or 28 gauge is too thin for use with a wood stove). The connector pipe
should be 6 inch diameter to match the flue collar of the stove. If your connection to either a masonry chimney or prefab-
ricated chimney system is more than 8 feet tall, we recommend the use of double wall connector pipe. If you need to
Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof
Installation 2
Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof.
Class A
Chimney Pipe
Installation 3- Through the Wall
Attic Insulation Shield
reduce clearances for your connector pipe installation, double wall connector pipe would be recommended. All pipe con-
nections, including at the flue collar, must be secured with screws. DO NOT USE GALVANIZED SINGLE WALL PIPE.
Connector pipe is designed to connect your stove to your masonry lined or approved prefabricated chimney system.
CONNECTOR PIPE SHOULD NEVER BE USED AS A CHIMNEY AND SHOULD NEVER PASS THROUGH A
COMBUSTIBLE WALL, CEILING, WINDOW, CLOSET, OR ROOF. At the point where your stovepipe meets the
chimney, you must either vent into a masonry chimney with approved non-combustible transition, or a prefabricated
chimney system with a specially designed transition piece.
FIREPLACE INSTALLATION
Your Model 202 Palladian or 204 Keystone wood stove can be installed in front of an
existing fireplace with a lintel opening of 26.5” high or taller. Installing the Palladian or
Keystone soapstone stove in a fireplace setting is a great way to enjoy the view of the fire,
while greatly increasing the efficiency and reducing heat loss to the fireplace chimney.
We do not recommend placing the stove inside the fireplace, as it would be difficult to
access the control levers, load the stove, and much of the heat radiating off the stove
would not circulate into the room.
The preferred method is to install a stove in front of a fireplace and run a stainless steel
‘flex’ liner down the chimney, connecting it to the stove at the fireplace. Chimneys with
large flues should be re-lined to achieve proper draft. If the chimney does not have a tile
lined flue or if the tile is cracked or compromised, an additional insulating material must
be used.
It is important that there be a secure connection between the stove and the flue
liner. It is NOT acceptable to simply install a plate in front of the fireplace and run
a stovepipe through it. The stove pipe must connect with the liner for a continu-
ous outlet to the top of your chimney.
Stainless steel flex liner kits come in a variety of lengths and are readily available. These
kits include a flexible stainless steel pipe, tee with snout & clean out, a block-off plate for
the top of the chimney and a cap. Please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company for
more information on these kits. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S SPE-
CIFIC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.
If the fireplace surround is clad in wood trim, the proper clearance to a combustible
will need to be maintained. See illustrations to the left. An unprotected wood mantel
needs to be a minimum of 30” from the top of the stove. If a mantel shield is installed
that clearance can be reduced to 12”.
DO NOT VENT YOUR WOOD STOVE THROUGH A FACTORY BUILT FIRE-
PLACE UNLESS IT IS SPECIFICALLY LISTED FOR SUCH AN INSTALLATION .
Most factory-built fireplace chimney systems are only rated to 1,700° F, which is not sufficient for a freestanding wood
burning stove.
FLOOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS
Your Woodstock Soapstone stove must be set on an approved hearth or floor protection.
The hearth protects your floor from two hazards:
• Heat Transfer: Heat radiation from the bottom, front, and sides of the woodstove
• Ember Protection: Sparks and hot coals that may fall out during ash removal and
reloading of firewood
DO NOT INSTALL YOUR WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE STOVE ON A COMBUSTIBLE SUR-
FACE (WOOD, CARPET, LAMINATE, OR VINYL, FOR EXAMPLE).
Even if you have a stone or tile overlay on wood, it is still considered combustible since the surface materials will not
provide adequate heat transfer protection.
Cap
Top Plate
Stainless
Liner
Keystone Stove in front of an
existing fireplace
30” clearance off stove
top without protection.
12” with a proper
mantel shield
Cleanout Tee
& Snout
Wood
trim
18”min. to combustible trim or
12” with rear heat shield
Wood
trim
Your stove MUST sit on one of the following:
• A hearth pad of solid masonry (brick or tile on concrete and mortared in place)
• A prefabricated hearth pad listed to UL approved standards. These pads are made to be placed on an existing floor.
Woodstock Soapstone Company has a good selection of these pre-made pads.
• A custom designed pad constructed of approved non-combustible materials which will protect the floor from sparks,
hot coals, and ashes; and prevents heat from being transferred onto the floor beneath.
IF YOU CHOOSE TO BUILD YOUR OWN HEARTH PAD
1) Start with a plywood base or sub-floor.
Over this apply:
2) a layer of insulating board with an R-Value of at least 0.59. Depending on the mate-
rial you choose, the insulating board can be as little as 1/2” thick. For additional
help with material specifications, contact Woodstock Soapstone Company at 1-800-
866-4344 or at [email protected].
Over this apply:
3) 1/4” or greater of a decorative, non-combustible material such as tile, slate, stone,
or brick. Use mortar or grout to set the material in place, then grout the seams.
Specifications for floor protectors may be listed in terms of R-value, K-value, or C-value.
To convert K or C value to R-value use the following formulas.
K to R: R=1/K x T (Thickness of the alternate material in inches)
C to R: R=1/C
Once alternate materials have been converted to R-values, the values of multiple layers can be added to determine the
combined protection. If the overall R-value meets or exceeds the specified 0.59 then the materials are acceptable.
DO NOT
USE: Old-fashioned stove boards that were commonly sold in hardware stores as they DO NOT have ade-
quate protection and ARE NOT approved for primary floor protection under your stove.
Hearth Rugs also ARE NOT meant to be used as primary hearth protection. These are made to be used in addition to
an approved hearth, and are used as auxiliary decorative protection. They are not made to be a substitute for an
approved hearth pad.
Hearth Sizing:
Clearances for your Palladian/Keystone stove on the front, back and sides must be taken into consideration when
determining the placement and size of your floor protection. Vertical dimensions can be added to horizontal dimensions
on all but the loading door side to equal the clearances needed to a combustible floor surface. For example, if you are
required to have 10 inches in front of the stove for clearance and you have a raised hearth that measures 5 inches high,
the stove can sit 5 inches from the edge to equal the 10 inches required. The floor protection must extend under any hori-
zontal connector pipe and 2 inches beyond each side.
You can build your own hearth pad to fit
your decor. The hearth pad must meet a
minimum R value of .59
trim
board
1/4” slate or tile
3/4” plywood
or subfloor
non-combustible
insulation board
R-values of common hearth materials:
Ceramic Tile 1/4” 0.020
Granite 1/4” 0.020
Slate 1/4” 0.025
Cement Mortar 1/2” 0.025
Cementboard 1/4”-1/2” 0.20-0.39
Common Brick 2.25” 0.450
Common Brick 4.00” 0.800
Mineral/Ceramic Fiber Board 1/2” 1.10-1.470
Please Note: Always check with the manufacturer of the hearth material used to
verify the R or K value.
K Values cannot be added, convert to R value before adding multiple layers.
PARALLEL INSTALLATION HEARTH PAD
A. Floor protection in front of stove using 7” flue collar = 8”
Floor protection in front of stove using 6” reducer= 10”
B. Floor protection at loading door side = 16”
C. Floor protection non-loading door side = 8”
D. Floor protection behind stove = 8”
Minimum hearth size in a parallel installation is:36”D x 49”W
Recommended size is: 48” D x 60”W
CORNER HEARTH PAD
Minimum hearth size in a corner installation must be 54”x54” (with the front corner cut off). NOTE: On a hearth of mini-
mum size, the stove will not be centered left to right, but will meet the minimum required clearances.
Calculating a Corner Hearth Pad (per NFPA 211):
A=C x 1.414 + W/2 + D + Front Hearth Requirement
A =distance from corner to the front of the hearth pad
C = clearance from rear corner of appliance to wall (12” w/ rear heat shield)
1.414 = a constant
W/2 = one half the appliance width (12.5”)
D = appliance depth (20”)
Front Hearth Clearance= 10”
Example:
Palladian/Keystone with the Rear Heat Shield & Pipe Shield
& 6” Flue
A= 12” x 1.414 + 12.5” + 20”+10” A= 59.50”
Note: If using the 7” Flue A= 57.50”
WALL PROTECTION
The Keystone & Palladian models have been tested to UL standards for
clearances to combustible walls. The minimum clearances to unprotected walls are as follows:
Minimum clearances with no heat shields to unprotected combustible walls:
From the back-------------------30”
From the sides-------------------18”
Do not assume that a wall is not combustible because it has a nonflammable surface. A wall with any combustible
materials in it must be considered combustible. For example, a brick wall attached to wood studs is considered a com-
bustible wall. Over time, heat will pass through bricks and heat the wood, lowering the ignition temperature of the
studs, possibly resulting in a fire. As waves of radiant heat energy meet a combustible object, heat is absorbed and the
temperature of the object is raised, which can result in spontaneous combustion. Similarly, wood-framed walls which are
covered with tile, stone or fire-rated sheetrock must be considered combustible. Fire-rated sheetrock is also considered
combustible due to the paper covering.
If you wish to install your stove closer to a combustible wall than standard clearances will permit, you can either attach
a UL approved stove & pipe shield, or mount a protective non-combustible shield on the wall.
Stove and Pipe Shields:
Clearances can be reduced by attaching a UL approved heat shield and pipe shield. Woodstock Soapstone Company
carries heat shields specifically designed for this stove. When using one or both of these shields,the clearance behind the
stove can be reduced to 14.5 inches when top venting. The clearance behind the pipe can be reduced to 10 inches.
A=57.5”
or
59.5”
CORNER HEARTH PAD
Palladian/Keystone shown above
centered left to right
16”
8” with 7” flue
10”with 6” flue
8”
8”
Hearth pad must extend at least 16” on the loading door
side and 8” on non-loading door side and back. Front
will be either 8” or 10” depending on the flue size.
25”
20”
Wall shields:
Clearances can also be reduced by mounting a ventilated shield on the wall that extends 36” out
beyond the stove (see diagram below). If you are installing wall protection, it should be spaced
out from the wall one inch. This air space allows air to flow freely behind the shield, cooling the
combustible wall and preventing a pocket of hot air from being trapped behind the shield. The
wall protection can be attached to the studs using long screws and ceramic wall spacers. The
spacers should not be installed directly behind the stove. The top and either a.) both sides, or b.)
the bottom must be left open for adequate ventilation.
*These clearances meet or exceed requirements of NFPA 211, Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel
Burning Appliances.
• These clearances apply to walls, ceilings, furniture and other combustibles.
• The 36” Vertical Stack Shield attaches to the back of the stove pipe and prevents excess heat
from being radiated from the pipe. Heat shield protection is only required for the first 36” of
vertical connector pipe.
• At least 30” is required from the front of the stove to combustibles (such as curtains, wall
hangings, and furniture).
The same clearances from your stove and stove pipe apply to both fireplace and freestanding
installations. Be particularly careful to check clearances to a wood mantel or a wood fireplace
facade. You must maintain a 30” clearance to an unprotected wood mantel. See Fireplace
Installations on Page 5
.
Clearance Table For Model 202/204 Palladian & Keystone
Type of Installation! Top Vent Rear Vent Rear Vent with elbow Stove Sides
Type of protection
"
Stove Back Stovepipe
No Protection 30” 30” 30” 20” 18”
3
1
/2” thick Masonry Against 20” 20” 26” 14” 14”
Combustible Wall*
3
1
/2” thick Masonry with 12” 12” 19” 7” 12”
1” ventilated airspace*
24 ga. sheet metal with 12” 12” 19” 7” 12”
1” ventilated airspace*
1/2” thick non-combustible 12” 12” 19” 7” 12”
insulation board with 1” airspace*
UL Listed Rear Heat Shield and 14.5” 14.5”stove 22” 10” 18”
36” Vertical Stack Shield
Clearance
from stove
back and pipe,
which goes
straight up
Clearance
from stove
back and pipe,
which goes
straight back
Clearance from stove back
and vertical single wall
connector pipe. Using
reducer & 6”stove pipe.
81” Required Width
56”
Required
Height
EXAMPLE:
Wall shield sizing with the 12”
Minimum Clearance to
Combustible Wall/Top Venting.
Note: Wall shield size will vary
depending on distance between
stove and wall.
12”
Rear heat shield & pipe
shield greatly reduce
required clearances
30”
30” clearance from
top of stove to unpro-
tected wood mantel
CLEARANCE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS
1) Parallel Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Top Vent
A
B
C
B
2) Parallel Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Back Vent
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Back of stove to wall = 30” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20”
B. Back of pipe to wall = 20” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
WITH REAR SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Back of stove shield to wall = 22” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20
B. Back of pipe shield to wall = 10” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
WITH REAR HEAT SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Back of stove shield to wall = 14.5” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20”
B. Back of pipe shield to wall = 10” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
D
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Back of stove to wall = 30” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20”
B. Back of pipe to wall = 20” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
D
A
C
A
B
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Stove corners to side walls = 18”(determines placement)
B. Pipe to side walls = 20”
WITH REAR SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Stove corners to side walls = 12”(determines placement)
B. Back of pipe shield to side walls = 10”minimum
B
4) Corner Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Back Vent
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Stove corners to side walls = 18” (determines placement)
B. Pipe to side walls = 25”
WITH REAR HEAT SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Stove corners to side walls = 12” (determines placement)
B. Pipe to side walls = 10”minimum
3) Corner Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Top Vent
CLEARANCE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS
TOP VENT
A
MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION
CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE MOBILE HOME FLOOR, WALL AND CEILING/ROOF MUST
BE MAINTAINED.
Both the Keystone and Palladian stoves are approved for installation in a mobile home. Along with the general
installation requirements for your stove, there are further regulations that must be followed for installing a stove in a
mobile home. These regulations assume that the structure is very tightly constructed, made of metal, and that the home
can be moved. Mobile home regulations vary from one locality to another, and may include some, or all, of the following:
• The stove must be attached to the floor of the home.
• The stove must be grounded to the mobile home’s chassis.
• You must maintain the structural integrity of the home.
• You must bring outside air to the stove for combustion.
• You must use close clearance (double wall) connector pipe between stove and chimney.
• You must install a rain cap with spark arrestor.
• You may NOT
install the appliance in a bedroom.
Since mobile homes are tightly constructed, YOU MUST SUPPLY OUTSIDE COMBUSTION AIR DIRECTLY TO THE
STOVE. Woodstock Soapstone Company makes an outside air adapter that attaches to the back of the stove. The flange
on this adapter will accept a 4” duct. We recommend flexible aluminum duct for ease of installation. Run the duct
through the floor to a ventilated crawl space below, and have it terminate in the crawl space underneath the stove. You
may want to install a piece of screen at the termination of the duct to keep out unwanted insects.
In a mobile home, the interior connector pipe must be close clearance (double wall) pipe. SINGLE WALL
CONNECTOR PIPE IS NOT ALLOWED IN A MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION.
Finally, metal straps must be used to bolt the stove to the floor of the mobile home. These straps are available from
Woodstock Soapstone Company at no charge.
Additional information about the installation of wood burning appliances in mobile homes is available from the
Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD).
SETTING UP YOUR STOVE
Before you light your stove for the first time, please follow these instructions.
1) Remove the combustor shipping bolts 2) Install the bottom heat shield, 3) Install the flue
collar/cover plate, 4) Attach the knob for the bypass handle, and 5) Remove the ash pan cover.
(1.) Remove the combustor shipping bolts:
Before attaching your flue collar and cover plate, you will want to remove the shipping bolts that
were installed for transportation purposes. (1) First make sure the lever in the back is in the
upright position, closing the bypass cover. (2)Using either the top or back opening, reach into the
upper section of the stove and remove the heat deflector using a 7/16” wrench. The deflector is
installed with one bolt and star washer. (3) Lift the deflector and turn it 90° to remove it
temporarily from the stove. You’ll now have view of the combustor. (4) Using a 1/2” wrench,
remove the two long bolts and washers on the right and left side of the combustor and discard. (5)
Reinstall the heat deflector.
(2.)How to attach the Palladian/Keystone bottom heat shield:
The bottom heat shield prevents excess heat from being radiated from the ash pan housing onto
the hearth. The bottom heat shield also contains a pocket to hold the Fall-Away Handle.
1. Attach the “V-Shaped” pocket to the bottom of the heat shield. Hardware is
included with the manual and the 4 holes are pre-drilled. This pocket serves as
storage for the Fall-Away Handle.
2. There are 4 threaded holes in the bottom of the stove that line up with the 4 holes in
the shield. Slide the shield under the stove and attach it to the bottom of the stove
with the 4 bolts provided in the manual package. The shield hangs down below the
bottom of the stove, and rests on the bolt heads, leaving air space for cooling.
3. The “V-Shaped” pocket will be on the bottom of the heat shield, right under the ash door. Slide the Fall-Away Handle
into the V-pocket for easy storage.
Installation of Keystone and Palladian
bottom heat shield and V-pocket. The Fall Away
Handle slides into the V-pocket, as shown above.
Remove Combustor Heat Deflector
Remove Shipping Bolts
(3) How to attach the Palladian/Keystone Flue Collar and Cover Plate:
The flue collar and cover plate are interchangeable, so first you must decide whether you will vent your stove from the
top or the back. If you are venting from the top, you will put the flue collar on the top vent and the cover plate on the
back vent. If you are venting from the back, you will do the opposite.
TOP VENTING: First, attach the flue collar to the top of the stove using 4 of the 6 flat
headed machine screws included in the manual package. (An allen wrench is provided to
tighten them.)
Second, attach the remaining cover plate to the back of the stove. When you attach this part,
the top two screws are slightly longer than the bottom two screws, and they are already in the
screw holes to help eliminate confusion. Remove these two screws from the back, and reuse
them to attach the cover plate. The two screws for the bottom are included in the manual
package.
Do not overtighten these screws: simply tighten until the gasket has seated and the screws
are snug. When you top vent a Keystone and install the cover plate on the back of the stove,
you can put the soapstone insert on the top of the stove, right in front of the flue collar. It will
provide a convenient raised cooking surface for kettles and pots.
REAR VENTING: Attach the flue collar to the back of the stove using the 2 screws that are
already in the top holes plus 2 of the flat headed machine screws included in the manual
package. (An allen wrench is provided to tighten them.) The Keystone cover plate has a
soapstone insert when it is installed on top of the stove.
(4) How to Attach the Palladian/Keystone Bypass Damper Knob:
Attach the “press-on” black plastic knob on the end of the damper rod at the back of the stove
using a pushing, twisting motion; or gently hammer the knob onto the rod with a soft mallet.
(5.) Remove your Ash Pan Cover:
Open your ash pan door, located on the right side of the stove, below the loading door, slide
the ash pan out and remove the cover and set it aside. The cover can be used when removing
the ash pan from the stove for safe disposal of the accumulated ash.
From top to bottom: interchange-
able flue collar; Keystone cover
plate; and Palladian cover plate.
Remove the ash pan lid before
starting your first fire.
OPERATION
Prior to operating your new Keystone/Palladian woodstove, please refer to “Setting up your stove” on page 11, located
in the Installation portion of the manual.
Seasoning Your Stove
Both soapstone and cast iron need to be seasoned. The seasoning can be accomplished through a series of small to
moderate fires. Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove is an easy stove to season, because even a small fire will provide hours
of radiant heat once the stove is warm. There are two things you will notice during the first fire:
First, there will be a hot, acrid smell as the stove heats up. This smell is a result of the paint on the cast iron curing.
You will want to have your first fire on a day when you can open the windows in the house to provide adequate
ventilation. Fortunately, the odor is non-toxic and will only be present for the first few fires.
Second, there will be some condensation on the glass. This condensation is a result of moisture being driven out of
the furnace cement in the stove, and condensing on the inner surface of the glass. It takes a
couple of small fires to season the stove and remove this excess moisture.
After the first few fires, the texture and grain of the stone may become slightly more
pronounced, and the color may deepen slightly.
Starting a Fire
THIS IS IMPORTANT: Check the Draft Before You Light The Stove:
Before you light your stove, it is a good idea to check the draft. If you experience a down
draft (cool air moving down the chimney), you will need to correct this before you light the
stove. Otherwise, you may get smoke in the house.
1. Open the catalytic bypass damper by pushing the lever with the black knob all the way
down. This will open the bypass door. (Fig. 1)
2. Push the air lever next to the side door all the way down to “4” to completely open the
air damper. With the lever in the down position, maximum air is allowed into the
firebox. (Fig. 2)
3. Always confirm there is adequate draft before lighting the fire. Hold a lit match or light
a small piece of newspaper in the top of the firebox, where smoke exits. If the flame is
drawn out of the firebox, toward the flue, proceed with lighting the fire. If the flame
stands still or is pushed away from the flue exit, you must establish a good draft before
lighting a fire. There are several ways of establishing a draft, below are a few suggestions:
A) You may be able to correct inadequate draft by opening a door or window in the room
where the stove is installed. Wait a minute or two, then light a match again in front of the
flue outlet. The flame should be pulled into the flue opening.
B) A hair dryer or heat gun pointed at the flue exit is a good way to establish draft
without creating a lot of smoke. After you think you have draft, re-test with a match.
C) Light rolled up newspaper and hold it under the bypass door at the back of the stove.
This should warm the chimney enough to establish proper draft.
Lighting the Fire
DO NOT USE ANDIRONS OR A GRATE TO SUPPORT WOOD. BUILD A FIRE
DIRECTLY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FIREBOX.
1) Once good draft has been established, build a fire on the floor of the firebox. Do not use additional grates,
andirons, or any other methods to support the fuel in the firebox. Start with crumpled newspaper and dry
kindling.
2) Now light the newspaper. Once it catches, you may leave the door open 1/4 to 1/2 inch for a few minutes to
promote air flow, but DO NOT forget to close it. DO NOT OPEN ASH PAN DOOR TO START THE FIRE.
3) Add small splits of firewood once the kindling has ignited. This will establish a bed of hot coals.
Always perform the “Match Test”
before lighting your stove. If you
light a match and hold it in front of
the flue exit, the flame will be
pulled into the flue collar if there is
enough draft to light the stove.
13
Figure 1:
Open bypass by lowing
lever with the black knob
Figure 2:
Open air fully by lower-
ing air lever down to “4”.
4) Add small to medium splits onto the hot coals. Assuming the wood is dry, the fire should spread through the
wood. After about 10 minutes, close the air damper down about half way between the “2” and “3” mark.
5) After the stove top temperature reaches 250°F or your single wall pipe temperature reaches 300-350°F, close the
bypass by lifting the lever with the black knob all the way up into the closed position. It will stop when the
bypass is fully closed. All of the smoke from the firebox will now pass through the catalytic combustor. The
combustor will generate a substantial amount of heat as it “burns” the smoke passing through it.
6) Adjust the air control damper to a lower setting, our recommendation is near the “1” mark. The closer the lever
is to the “0”, the lower the burn rate, as less air is entering the firebox. The final damper setting will be
determined by the desired heat output from the stove, the condition of the wood being burned, and the draft
through the chimney system.
Engaging the Catalytic Combustor
The catalytic combustor will start to burn the gases and particles in the smoke when the
temperature of the smoke reaches approximately 500ºF, or after about 10-15 minutes of
establishing a strong fire. Each stove comes with a surface thermometer. Use the surface
thermometer to monitor your stove temperatures. The temperature on top of the stove is
approximately 1/2 the temperature inside the stove, so when the thermometer on the stove
top reads 250ºF, it is 500ºF inside. You will find that after the combustor is engaged, surface
temperatures will often rise considerably- evidence that the combustor is producing lots of
heat, and the pipe temperature will go down, indicating less heat loss to your chimney!
Engage the combustor by lifting the bypass handle (with the black knob) up until it clicks
into its upright position and then reduce the air damper to 1. You should see the bright
yellow flames slow down and become more orange in color. Make fine adjustments to your
damper (by moving it closer to 0 in 1/8 to 1/4 inch increments) until you achieve this slower
moving, darker flame. Closing the air damper to 0 will cause smoldering which can smoke
up your stove’s window and produce creosote.
Low & Overnight Burning
These instructions are intended as a guide to operating your wood stove. Your timing and
final damper settings will vary depending on chimney draft, type of wood, moisture content
of the wood, and size of the splits. The Keystone/Palladian model is simply designed and
intended to be user friendly, but it will take some practice to get used to it.
1) Before you open the loading door, you must fully open the catalytic bypass and the air damper. Wait a minute or
so for a strong draft to be established to prevent smoke from spilling back into the room.
2) Stir up the hot coals. If necessary, excess ash should be removed before reloading the firebox. Simply rake the hot
coals back and forth in the firebox to allow the loose ash to fall through the grate into the ash pan. Dispose of the
ash properly. Never put an ash container on a combustible surface, like a wood floor.
3) Place several small splits on top of the hot coals and allow them to ignite.
4) Load the firebox to capacity, leaving space for secondary combustion, with a mix of larger and smaller splits.
Close the loading door and allow the pipe temperature to come back up to 300°-350°.
5) Adjust the air damper to a low setting by lifting the lever up toward #1.
6) Close the catalytic bypass, by lifting the lever with the black knob all the way up into the closed position. It will
stop when the bypass is fully closed.
7) Initially the fire may appear to die out. This may cause a small amount of soot to collect on the glass. Any
buildup on the glass should go away with higher t emperature burns
THE STOVE SHOULD NEVER BE OPERATED WITH THE DRAFT DAMPER COMPLETELY OPEN EXCEPT
WHEN KINDLING A FIRE OR RELOADING THE STOVE. It should be “damped down” or partially closed as soon
as the fire has been kindled or, if the stove is being reloaded, as soon as the fire has been re-established.
The amount of combustion air
available in the firebox is controlled
by the air control lever.
The combustor bypass lever; shown
here in the “engaged” position.
When the handle is down, the com-
bustor is “bypassed”.
14
NEVER BUILD A ROARING FIRE IN A COLD STOVE! It takes approximately 30-45 minutes to heat the
soapstone mass of the Keystone or Palladian stove thoroughly. Any attempt to hurry this process and generate
extremely high heat quickly could result in damage to the cast-iron or to the soapstone. Your patience will be
rewarded with hours of “stored” warmth.
The Surface and ProbeThermometers
We recommend placing the surface thermometer 8”-10”above the flue collar on
single wall stove pipe if the stove is vented out the top. If you are reading the single
wall stove pipe temperature, the interior flue exhaust temperature is about twice as
hot. Since the 22 gauge sheet metal pipe is more reactive (faster heat transfer) than the
stove top, it gives a better idea of exhaust temperatures. We recommend engaging the
catalytic combustor once the pipe thermometer reaches 250°-300° F. Once the
combustor is engaged, you should see the stove surface temperature rise and the pipe
temperature drop, indicating catalytic combustor activity. From a cold start it may
take 30-45 minutes to get the stove up to temperature. If you are reloading a hot
stove, wait approximately 10-15 minutes before engaging the combustor.
The surface thermometer is not a precise instrument – it will not tell you the exact
temperature inside the firebox or in the flue. If reading the surface temperature, the
thermometer will not register changes in temperature quickly due to the thickness and heat retention of soapstone. We
supply the thermometer to give you some idea of what is going on inside the stove, and to provide a guide for
operation.
STOVE TOP READING OPERATION
over 250º.....................OK to engage the combustor
400-600º......................Normal operating temperature
600-700º......................High burn range
over 700º.....................DO NOT burn in this range
The probe thermometer can be inserted into the port beside the flue collar in the rear of the stove. The probe
thermometer wll measure the temperature immediately downstream of the catalytic combustor. The sensing end of
the probe extends to within 1 inch of the face of the catalyst. The probe is calibrated from room temperature to 1700
degrees F. The catalyst can be engaged as soon as the temperature on this probe exceeds 500 degrees F, or as soon as
the temperature on the pipe thermometer exceeds 250 degrees (see above). The best operating range for the catalyst is
from 500 - 1400 degrees F. When the temperature on the probe thermometer exceeds 1400
o
F, we recommend closing
the damper to prevent excessive heat from occuring
Overfiring
The cast iron parts in your Woodstock Soapstone Stove are of the finest quality. Our cast
iron parts have been made in the same foundry since the mid 1980’s, and the foundry
itself has been in business for over one hundred years. Each cast iron part is inspected by
our stove builders before it becomes part of a stove. However, cast iron is not
indestructible. Experts have shown that cast iron begins to oxidize (reddish or whitish
discoloration) at 1400º F. Burning a stove frequently at excessive temperatures is known
as overfiring. When the surface temperature is consistently near or over 700º F, the stove
has reached 1400º F inside. Operation with temperatures in this range can lead to cast
iron warping, becoming brittle, and eventually deteriorating completely. Overfiring can
also shorten the useful life of the catalytic combustor.
Avoid overfiring by letting the combustor do most of the work in the stove. Your stove is operating at peak efficiency
when the combustor is “engaged”, with the damper lever set to a low to moderate setting, and the logs are glowing
with some low flames, or lazy floating flames. You will get the greatest amount of heat per pound of wood when the
stove is operated in this manner.
Daily Use
Your Keystone or Palladian is well-suited for continuous firing on a 24 hour-a-day basis. It will burn for hours on one load
of wood, and will provide steady heat for hours after the fire dies down. When the temperature on top of the stove drops
below 250º during an all-night burn, it is not necessary to disengage the combustor. Disengage the catalytic combustor when
you kindle a fire, or reload the stove. Once the catalyst is ignited, it will continue to function as long as there is smoke to
burn. This is true even if the surface temperature on top of the stove drops below 250º at the end of a long burn.
DO NOT OVERFIRE!
ATTEMPTS TO ACHIEVE
HEAT OUTPUT RATES
THAT EXCEED STOVE
DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS
CAN RESULT IN PERMA-
NENT DAMAGE TO THE
STOVE AND TO THE
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR.
15
Place the stove top thermometer on the soap-
stone, in the center of the top of the stove, over
the the catalyst, or on the first 8-10” of single
wall stove pipe.
Your connector pipe and chimney, or chimney pipe, should be inspected at regular intervals (not less than once every
two months). Examine the connector pipe for creosote, corrosion, loose seams, or excessive soot. Clean and replace as
necessary. The chimney, or chimney pipe, should be cleaned and checked by a certified specialist once a year. A small
mirror held at the cleanout door of a masonry chimney will be helpful. For a class A prefabricated metal pipe, some
disassembly is usually required.
The Fall-Away Handle
The metal “fall-away” handle, which comes with your stove, can be used to operate any of
the three controls on the stove: 1) The side door latch, 2) The draft damper control, and 3) The
catalytic bypass handle.
The FORK of the handle should be used to turn the latch, to push the door closed, or open
and close the damper.
The LEG of the handle should be used to pull the door open or to move the combustor
bypass into position.
The “fall-away” handle conforms to UL requirements and is made so that if you let go of it, it
will “fall-away” from the stove and not become too hot to handle.
Cooking
The soapstone top of your stove provides a good cooking surface for soups and stews or meals cooked in a Dutch
oven. The soapstone distributes heat evenly for long simmering, and the polished surface is a natural no-stick surface.
We do not recommend cooking directly on the stove top, as the surface will discolor. If the soapstone does discolor, it
can easily be restored by sanding lightly with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Soapstone griddles have been popular in New
England for years. They are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and can be purchased directly from Woodstock
Soapstone Company.
Firewood
Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove is designed to burn seasoned, natural cordwood only. Higher efficiency and lower emissions
generally result when burning air-dried hardwoods, as compared to soft woods or green, freshly cut hardwoods.
The moisture content of some trees may range as high as 50% – i.e., there is as much moisture in the tree as there is wood.
After wood has been stored for a year, the moisture content will usually range from 15-25%. Splitting wood before it is stored
will reduce drying time, result in more even burning, and lessen the danger of water vapor condensing in the chimney, creosote
formation, and damage to the catalyst. It is safer and more efficient to burn dry or seasoned cordwood than green or wet wood
that smolders.
The advantages of burning dry wood are many. Dry wood is lighter, easier to split and easier to carry. It is easier to light,
produces more heat and generates less smoke. If you burn wet wood some of the energy generated by the fire is used to drive
moisture out of the wood, rather than producing heat for you. Dry wood will maintain the highest combustor temperatures
and burn the most efficiently. Creosote is much less likely to form if you burn dry wood.
DO NOT BURN treated or painted wood, coal, garbage, cardboard, solvents, colored paper, or trash in your Woodstock
Soapstone Stove. Coal and artificial logs burn much hotter than wood and could cause damage,
through overheating, to the cast iron or the soapstone panels. Burning treated wood, garbage,
solvents, colored paper or trash may result in the release of toxic fumes and may poison or
otherwise render the catalytic combustor ineffective.
Burning cardboard, loose paper, and trash will add significantly to ash and soot build-up, and it
will not produce much heat. Fly ash from improper fuel can also coat or plug the combustor,
causing smoke spillage into the room.
Under normal operating conditions, the Woodstock Soapstone Stove is designed to last for
generations. It is not, however, designed for continuous over-firing, or firing with coal, artificial
logs or trash.
DO NOT BURN
• Treated Wood
• Coal
• Garbage
• Cardboard
• Solvents
• Colored Paper
• Trash
The fall-away handle may be used
to operate the controls on your
stove when they are too hot to
handle safely.
CAUTION
NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQ-
UIDS, TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY
FROM THE STOVE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
16
CATALYTIC COMBUSTORS
Here is how your catalytic combustor works.
The catalytic combustor is a stainless steel foil with hundreds of cells. Precious metals,
such as platinum, are sprayed on the inside of these cells to coat the steel foil. This
creates the surface area which interacts with the wood smoke. The catalytic combustor in
your stove is very similar to the one in the exhaust system of your automobile and works
to achieve the same results - high efficiency and clean air!
When you first start a fire, you should bypass your catalytic combustor and let the smoke go directly up the chimney.
Once wood smoke reaches 500º F internally (about 10-15 minutes after re-establishing a strong fire), it is hot enough to
ignite the catalytic combustor. As the wood smoke passes through the cells in the combustor, the smoke reacts with the
precious metals which line the inside of the honeycomb and both combustible gases and particles in the smoke ignite
and burn. This “catalytic burn” reduces emissions and also increases heat output from the stove.
Without a catalytic combustor, between 5% - 40% of the chemical energy contained in wood simply escapes up the
chimney when wood is burned. Energy laden gases are exhausted up the chimney where they pollute the air or may
condense on the inside of the chimney flue as creosote. The slower the burn, without a catalytic combustor, the greater
the amount of energy that is lost. A long smoldering fire is the least efficient use of energy in wood, yet it produces lots
of smoke, which is the fuel supply for the catalytic combustor.
Most of the chemical compounds in wood smoke are combustible. The catalyst produces
high temperatures, which loosen the bonds of these chemical compounds and “burns” wood
smoke. A stove that “burns” these compounds and uses smoke as additional fuel will burn
more efficiently and produce more heat, while reducing creosote and air pollution at the same
time. However, most stoves cannot consistently produce temperatures high enough to burn
cleanly, particularly during long burning times - hence the need for a catalytic combustor.
Your catalytic combustor can get the most efficiency out of every piece of wood if it has
three things: temperature, turbulence, and time.
1. Temperature. The catalytic combustor can only start burning the gases in the wood smoke
after the smoke has reached at least 500 degrees F. Before the smoke reaches that
temperature, it simply is not hot enough to start the reaction at the combustor. This will
result in an inefficient smoldering fire.
2. Turbulence. The wood smoke can interact best with the precious metals inside the foil
cells if there is some variation in the air flow. Increased turbulence enables more of the
wood smoke to come into contact with more cells. The exhaust path as well as the irregular surface of the combustor
cells adds needed turbulence.
3. Time. Once the temperature and turbulence are achieved, the catalytic combustor just
needs to have enough time to burn all the gases in the wood smoke. For this reason, it is
best to minimize the amount of air you allow into the firebox once the combustor is
ignited. Allowing too much air into the firebox speeds up the rate at which the fire burns.
The ideal air setting for a long catalytic burn allows enough air to keep the wood burning
and producing smoke.
With proper care, a new catalytic combustor will give years of fuel savings and lowered
emissions. By following some simple guidelines you can ensure maximum combustor performance and longevity. Your
catalytic combustor is designed to last for 12,000 -14,000 hours of use. You can ensure yourself of getting the maximum
life from your combustor by following these simple guidelines:
1) Burn only natural, well-seasoned wood.
2) Wait until the exhaust gases reach about 500 degrees F (internally) before engaging the catalytic combustor (about
10-15 minutes after re-establishing a strong fire).
3) Bypass the combustor before reloading and leave the bypass open for a few minutes after reloading to raise
the temperature in the stove.
4) Don’t overfire the stove.
5) Clean the combustor regularly. See instructions below.
Cut-away drawing of the airflow
pattern in a Palladian & Keystone.
Air enters the firebox by washing
down over the window and exits
after going through the combustor.
Stainless Steel Foil Catalytic Combustor
within a steel frame.
17
You can also obtain a lot of useful information by visiting our website, www.woodstove.com. Other very useful web
sites on all aspects of wood burning are, www.hearth.com, www.woodheat.org and www.csia.org. CSIA is the Chimney
Safety Institute of America.
Inspection & Cleaning
Your stove comes with a new stainless steel combustor already installed. The
stainless combustor is a honeycomb foil block located under the top of your
Keystone/Palladian, and is accessed through the top or back cover plate. Typical
lifespan for a well maintained catalytic combustor is 4-6 years. There are a few ways to
determine if your combustor needs to be cleaned. If you notice the smoke exiting your
chimney is thicker and darker in color, the combustor may need cleaning.
Additionally, if you notice reduced draft or backpuffing, or performance and heat
output has diminished, then the combustor may not be working as efficiently as
designed.
The catalytic combustor is protected from ash build up by a high temperature alloy
screen. The screen should be cleaned at every combustor cleaning. Plan to clean and
inspect your catalytic combustor and screen about every 4-6 weeks. Any fly ash
deposits on the screen or combustor will need to be brushed or vacuumed off. An
accumulation of fly ash can reduce the draft, causing backpuffing, sluggish burning
and inefficient heating performance. You should clean and check your combustor &
screen before the heating season begins, as well as on a regular 4-6 week basis.
Tools needed: (1) work gloves and safety glasses; (2) 7/16” and 1/2” socket or box wrench, or adjustable wrench; (3)
soft bristled paint brush or vacuum cleaner (preferably one designed for ash removal).
There are two ways to clean your combustor.
METHOD I: REMOVE YOUR COMBUSTOR FROM THE STOVE:
This is the most thorough method of cleaning your combustor.
1. Be sure the fire is out and the stove is cold. Even though the stove may be cold, there
may be some lingering embers in the ashes.
2. Your Palladian/Keystone has an interchangeable cover plate and flue collar that
enable you to vent the stove from the top or back. Leave the flue collar and pipe in
place and remove the cover plate.
3. Using the Allen wrench provided with the stove, remove the four screws.
4. Reach in through the opening, remove the single hex head bolt that holds the
stainless steel heat shield in place, using an adjustable wrench or 7/16” open-end
wrench, and remove the heat shield (see illustration).
5. If you haven’t already done so, remove the two bolts that hold the combustor box in
place using the 1/2” open-end wrench. These bolts are located at either side of the
combustor box and have flat washers under the bolt heads. These are shipping bolts
so the combustor doesn’t move while your stove is in transit. You can either discard
them now or hold onto them if you ever plan to move your stove again. They do not
have to be reinstalled (see illustration at right.)
6. Tip the front of the combustor box up, turn it 90 degrees, and remove it through the
rear opening. If you’re removing it through the top of the stove, you will have to
slide one end of the combustor into the flue opening, and tip it up so that it will
come out through the top opening.
7. Once out, you can use a paint brush (or other soft bristled brush) or a vacuum
cleaner to remove any fly ash from both sides of the combustor. Never use anything
abrasive to clean the combustor. A vacuum cleaner may be used, but never use high
pressured (or compressed) air to blow the cells free of build-up. It could strip the
precious metal coating from the inside of the cells. Any cell blockage can be
removed with a pipe cleaner or a cotton swab. Vacuum the area where the
combustor is installed inside the stove.
8. Once cleaned, put the combustor back into place inside the stove.
Step Number 4: Remove the stainless steel
heat shield before you take out the combus-
tor box and combustor.
To clean the catalyst you will need a 7/16”
and a 1/2” wrench (or an adjustable wrench)
You should wear gloves and safety glasses.
You can clean the actual catalyst with a
vacuum cleaner.
Step Number 6: Use the tab on the bottom
of the combustor box to tip it up, turn the
combustor box 90º, and slide it out
through the back opening.
Step Number 5: If you have not yet
removed the shipping bolts, remove them
using a 1/2” wrench. Do not reinstall the
shipping bolts.
18
You should now clean the metal screen located inside of the firebox, under the catalytic combustor.
9. Open the side door. The top of the firebox (inside the stove) consists of a flat
stainless steel plate (K-805 Scoop Kit) with an attached metal screen. This screen
prevents direct flame from hitting the combustor and creates turbulence in the
exhaust stream. The scoop plate is held in place with two metal hair pin cotters that
feed through stainless steel posts. The scoop plate is also supported in the slot under
the bypass damper toward the back of the stove.
10. Remove the two hair pin cotters. This will allow you to remove the scoop plate
from the ceiling of the firebox.
11. You can now use a brush, vacuum, or rinse the screen to remove any ash that may
have accumulated.
12. To reassemble, put the scoop/screen assembly back in place, taking care that the
back edge of the scoop is wedged in the slot under the bypass damper and push
the scoop plate up to reveal the holes in the stainless posts. Push the hair pin cotter through the posts so the pins
are below the scoop plate/screen assembly. You are finished.
METHOD II: CLEAN YOUR COMBUSTOR FROM INSIDE THE FIREBOX:
This is a quicker way to give your combustor and screen a quick cleaning when you don’t have the time to do the more
thorough method described above.
1. Follow the steps above to remove the scoop plate and screen (#9-#10, above).
2. Brush them off with a paint brush or vacuum.
3. While the scoop is removed, reach into the firebox with the brush or vacuum and remove the ash from the
“upstream” face of the combustor while it sits in place. Fly ash will accumulate on this side more than the backside.
This will keep the cells open for the smoke to flow through.
4. Follow the instructions for re-installing the scoop back into place. (#12, above).
REPLACING A CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR
You will need the following tools: (1) 5/32” allen wrench that came with stove, (2) 1/2” open end wrench, (3) 2- 7/16”
wrenches, (4) vacuum — preferably one designed for ash removal, (5) work gloves, and (6) safety glasses.
1. Your Palladian/Keystone has an interchangeable cover plate and flue collar which enables you to vent the stove
from either the top or back. Leave the flue collar in place and the pipe connected to it. Remove the cover plate,
using the enclosed 5/32” allen wrench to loosen the 4 socket set screws in the corners.
2. Reach in through the hexagonal opening, and remove the single hex-head bolt that holds the stainless steel
combustor shield in place using an adjustable wrench or 7/16” open-end wrench to loosen the bolt. Remove the
stainless steel shield.
3. If you haven’t already, remove the two bolts that hold the combustor box in place using the 1/2” open-end wrench.
These two bolts are located at either side of the combustor box and have flat washers under the bolt heads. These are
shipping bolts so the combustor doesn’t move while the stove is being shipped. To make future maintenance easier,
do not reinstall them.
4. Tip the front of the combustor box up, turn the box 90 degrees, and remove it through the rear opening. If you are
removing the combustor box through the top of the stove, you will have to slide one end of the combustor into the
flue collar opening, and tip it up so that it will come out through the top opening.
5. Separate the top and bottom of the combustor box by removing the 2 bolts with two 7/16” wrenches. Remove the
old combustor and clean off any old gasket residue. Put the new combustor with its new gasket into the combustor
box. It may fit loosely at first but when the stove is fired, the gasket will expand to fill the space. Reassemble the
combustor box. Place the box back into the stove so it is seated on the gasket. Bolt the stainless shield back in place.
6. Attach the cover plate again, tightening the 4 socket set screws with the Allen wrench.
Pull the two cotter pins on the underside of
the scoop plate to remove the screen/plate
assembly from the stove for cleaning.
19
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. How does the catalytic combustor work?
A. The catalytic combustor breaks the bonds that hold the chemicals contained in wood smoke together. The result is
that these chemicals begin to burn at temperatures of about 500 degrees F (the normal range of exhaust gas
temperatures). Without the catalytic combustor, wood smoke would have to be brought up to a temperature of 1000
to 1200 degrees F in order to start to burn. A stove with a catalytic combustor will generate up to 25% more heat
from each piece of wood, thus reducing the amount of fuel used during the year.
There are three advantages to burning the smoke created by burning wood. First, the smoke becomes another
source of fuel, giving you more heat from the same amount of wood. Second, creosote causing materials will be
burned up instead of being deposited in your chimney, reducing the risk of a chimney fire. Third, air pollution will
be drastically reduced.
Q. How can I tell if the catalytic combustor is working?
A. First - The best way to tell if the catalytic combustor is working is by observing the smoke coming out of your
chimney. If there is only a small amount of smoke, and/or it’s white in color, the catalytic combustor is working.
You will see significantly more smoke when the combustor is being bypassed than when the smoke is being burned
by the combustor.
Second - One very noticeable effect of a well functioning combustor is the high efficiency of your stove. Catalytic
combustors produce lots of heat, which the stove radiates into your home. If you notice that the stove is producing
less heat, or that a load of wood doesn’t provide as much warmth, under similar circumstances, as it did before, it’s
time to check the combustor. If and when the catalyst ceases to function properly, the stove will produce noticeably
less heat.
Third - Regular inspection of the connector pipe and chimney flue should show very little accumulation of soot and
creosote. Soot is typically brown and powdery when the combustor is working properly. Heavy buildup of black
sticky creosote may indicate the combustor is not functioning or needs cleaning.
Q. How do I maintain my catalytic combustor?
A. Combustors should be inspected and cleaned, if necessary, every 4-6 weeks during the heating season. When the
stove is cool, the combustor can be cleaned by thoroughly vacuuming or brushing both sides.
There is a metal screen in the top of the firebox, just in front of the bypass damper. This screen is made of an alloy
called inconel, and can withstand very high temperatures. Since the screen is in a very hot part of the exhaust path,
it incinerates most airborne fly ash, and prevents fly ash from reaching the catalytic combustor. If fly ash in its pure
mineral form ( calcium carbonate or magnesium oxide, for example) is left on the screen, you can remove these
mineral desposits by gently tapping on the front of the screen until the deposits becomes dislodged, brushing the
screen with a soft wire brush to dislodge the mineral deposits, or by soaking the screen in a vinegar/water bath for
roughly 10 minutes, rinse in fresh water, then reinstall. It is very important to keep the screen clean.
If the stove does not draft well when the catalytic combustor is engaged and the stainless steel screen is clean, then
the combustor cells themselves might be partially plugged with fly ash. If this is the case, follow the cleaning
procedure described in detail on page 19 of this manual.
Q. How will I know if the combustor is “worn out”?
A. There are three symptoms that will indicate that the catalyst in your stove may not be working: First, your stove
will generate noticeably less heat than it will when the catalyst is working. Second, you will notice a dramatic
increase in the amount of soot and/or creosote in your stovepipe or chimney. Third, the color of the smoke
produced by the stove will change. Smoke will appear black or brownish, instead of clear, white smoke (almost
steam) from a catalytic stove.
If you suspect that your catalyst is not working, let the stove cool down and clean the combustor and screen and try
it again.
Q. Is it all right to burn my stove hot daily to clean any build up in my chimney system?
A. It is not necessary to burn your stove hot daily to burn off any creosote build up in the chimney. This function is
performed by the catalytic combustor. It is there to reduce the emissions from the stove that contribute to deposits
in the connector pipe and chimney flue.
20
View more frequently asked questions and articles at our web site www.woodstove.com. Other very useful websites
on all aspects of wood burning are www.hearth.com, www.woodheat.org, and www.csia.org. CSIA is the Chimney
Safety Institute of America.
TWO OTHER IMPORTANT POINTS REGARDING CATALYTIC COMBUSTORS:
1) The combustor uses wood smoke as fuel. Most smoke is created in the early stages of the burn cycle. When a bed of
coals is all that remains of your wood, there is little smoke left to fuel the combustor, and it will no longer create
substantial amounts of heat. Hence, the temperatures on the surface thermometer tend to fall toward the end of the
burn, even though the firebox is full of hot coals. This does not mean that you have to reload the stove or open the
bypass. Let the hot coals burn down to ashes.
2) Since the combustor blocks the path of exiting smoke, it can reduce the draft in your stove. When draft is reduced by
warm or rainy weather, open the bypass damper longer when starting the stove to create more draft.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR WARRANTY
Model #202 Palladian and Model #204 Keystone have a 3-5/8” x 9-1/2” rectangular catalytic combustor, which is
made of corrugated stainless steel. These combustors are manufactured by Clariant.
The Keystone & Palladian catalytic combustors in Woodstock Soapstone Stoves have a three year unconditional
warranty, with an additional three years of pro-rated warranty. Warranty claims should be addressed to:
Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.
66 Airpark Road
West Lebanon, NH 03784
Phone: 1-800-866-4344 • Web: www.woodstove.com
Email: [email protected]
21
MAINTENANCE
Ash Removal
If your Palladian or Keystone is in continuous operation, ashes will have to be removed
every 3-4 days. You do not have to let the fire die out completely to remove the ashes,
but do let it burn down to coals. First make sure the combustor is in bypass position.
Remember to wear stove gloves - the ash pan will be hot! Open the ash removal door
under the side door. Carefully remove the ash pan from the base of the stove and attach
the lid to the top of the ash pan. The lid slides into two channels in the sides of the ash
pan. Use both hands, and pick up the pan by both ends. Close the ash pan door.
NOTE: Do not open the ash removal door while the stove is in the middle of a long
burn, because the additional draft created under the fire could cause the stove to burn
excessively hot and the ash pan itself will be very hot, and full of live coals. If you are
burning your stove 24 hours/day, it is often easiest to empty the ashes first thing in the
morning, after an overnight burn.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed
container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible material, pending final
disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have
thoroughly cooled. Live cinders can take up to 36 hours to cool.
Never shovel ashes into a combustible container like a cardboard box or a plastic
bucket. Do not use a vacuum cleaner to remove ashes unless it is specifically
designed for wood stove ash removal. Do not ever leave a container of hot ashes
on a wood floor or porch.
Stove Cleaning
The ornamental cast iron frame of the Woodstock Soapstone Stove is painted with two coats of high temperature stove
paint. Under normal operating conditions, this paint will not peel or blister. We suggest cleaning by dusting with a soft
brush or vacuuming with a brush attachment when the stove is cold. If the iron castings are exposed to moisture for a
long period of time they may rust. If this happens, brush the affected area until clean with either a short wire brush or
medium steel wool and then touch-up with high temperature stove paint, which is available from Woodstock Soapstone
Company.
Soapstone is a very soft mineral and the polished exterior surfaces can be scratched. Scratches may be easily removed
by sanding lightly with medium steel wool or 120 grit sandpaper. The surface may then be buffed with 400 grit
sandpaper or fine steel wool. Remove dust created by sanding with a vacuum cleaner; a damp cloth will simply spread
it around. Be sure the stove is cold before you clean it.
Glass Cleaning
We use ceramic glass in our stoves because it is resistant to both impact and thermal shock. The panes of ceramic glass
installed in the stove fronts have full gaskets around the perimeter so there is no contact between the glass and the cast
iron frame.
There are two panes of glass in each fireplace front, with an air-space between the two panes. This “thermal-pane”
arrangement helps keep the temperature on the inside of the glass higher and prevents condensation and soot from
accumulating. The Keystone and Palladian have large glass areas and also have an “air-wash” design in which the
primary air supply washes over the front glass to assist in keeping the glass free of ash and soot.
The glass may soot up the first time you use the stove (from condensation already inside the stove). Don’t be alarmed!
Usually, as soon as you build up adequate temperature with a hot fire, the glass will clean itself. The residue will burn
off, and it will stay clean. Soot accumulation on the inside of the glass is more likely in the spring and fall, when
temperatures are very mild and you are less likely to maintain a hot fire.
To clean the inside of the glass or wipe off fly ash, we recommend that you use a brush with soft bristles (like a
paintbrush). You may clean heavy soot from the glass with very fine steel wool (.0000 grade), but first, be sure the fire is
out; and second, be sure that the glass has cooled to room temperature before you clean it.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN HOT GLASS.
Always handle the ash tray with both
hands, and always wear stove gloves.
The front lip of the ash tray is curved to
form a hand grip.
Before opening the ash door, put the com-
bustor handle in bypass position. Pull
the handle of the Palladian ash door
toward you to open the ash door. The door
opens down, toward the hearth.
22
Door Latch Adjustment
The Keystone and Palladian stoves have latches that can be easily adjusted as
required. If the gasketing on the side door becomes compressed, the latch has a set
screw that can be adjusted to take up the slack, maintaining a tight seal around the
door.
To adjust the latch, loosen the lock nut on the back of the latch. Tighten the set screw a
turn or two, until the door closes more tightly. Then tighten the lock nut so the set
screw will not move.
Gasket Replacement
There are five areas on your stove where you should check the gasket routinely: (1) on the side door, (2) the ash pan
door, (3) under the catalytic bypass damper, (4) under the catalytic combustor, (5) and the flue collar & cover plate.
These five gaskets are the most important for maintaining high efficiency and clean burning. Close a slip of paper in
these gasketed areas. There should be resistance as you pull the paper out. If there is any evidence of deterioration
and/or leaking in any of these areas or if any of the gasket material in the stove becomes worn or frayed, it should be
replaced. Please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company for replacement gasket and replacement instructions.
The sizes of all the gaskets on your Keystone/Palladian woodstove are included in the parts list on page 30 of this
manual.
Routine Checks
And End of Season Maintenance
Every two months of operation we recommend checking the chimney connector (stovepipe), chimney, and combustor
(see combustor section) and cleaning, if necessary. If any of the gasket material in the stove becomes worn or frayed, it
should be replaced. Also inspect the cast iron interior parts to make sure that over-firing hasn’t occurred.
When the weather warms up and the burning season is over, it is a good idea to do a thorough spring cleaning and
inspection of your stove and combustor. We recommend a yearly service visit from a certified chimney sweep who will
look at the whole system, from top to bottom. Chimney safety is important for you and your family so you can fully
enjoy your stove without worrying. The best way to gain confidence in the safety of your Keystone/Palladian is to have
it serviced and inspected once a year by a professional chimney sweep.
If you live in a climate with warm, humid, summer weather, your stove may collect moisture from warm, moist
chimney downdrafts during the summer. If this happens, the moisture may wick through the gasket between the cast
iron and the soapstone panels, and appear as discoloration around the edge of the soapstone, on the outside of the stove.
If this happens, you can remove any discoloration with fine steel wool. You can prevent future occurences by blocking
the flue exit in the stove with fiberglass insulation at the end of the heating season. This will prevent downdrafts from
entering the stove. (You’ll have to be careful to remember to remove the insulation before you light the stove again in
the fall!)
Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal
WHEN WOOD IS BURNED SLOWLY, IT PRODUCES TAR AND OTHER ORGANIC VAPORS, WHICH
COMBINE WITH EXPELLED MOISTURE TO FORM CREOSOTE. THE CREOSOTE VAPORS CONDENSE IN
THE RELATIVELY COOL CHIMNEY FLUE OF A SLOW-BURNING FIRE. AS A RESULT, CREOSOTE RESIDUE
ACCUMULATES ON THE FLUE LINING. WHEN IGNITED THIS CREOSOTE MAKES AN EXTREMELY HOT
FIRE. THE CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND THE CHIMNEY SHOULD BE INSPECTED AT LEAST ONCE
EVERY TWO MONTHS DURING THE HEATING SEASON TO DETERMINE IF A CREOSOTE BUILDUP HAS
OCCURED. IF CREOSOTE HAS ACCUMULATED IT SHOULD BE REMOVED TO REDUCE THE RISK OF A
CHIMNEY FIRE.
The most likely conditions for creosote to occur are: (1) when a large number of small pieces of wood are added to a
hot bed of coals and the damper is then completely closed; (2) extremely long, smoldering fires, and; (3) burning wet or
green wood.
Lack of combustion air and smoldering fires usually result in dense smoke and low stack temperatures in the chimney
connector and the chimney. Wet or green wood can also produce dense smoke and excessive water vapor, which can
quickly lead to creosote buildup.
To adjust the door latch, shown here, loosen
the lock nut, turn the set screw in, and then
tighten the lock nut again. The point of the
set screw bears against the door frame, and
each turn of the set screw will pull the door
in tighter.
Lock Nut
Set Screw
23
Creosote will accumulate faster in exterior chimneys than interior chimneys because of
colder outside temperatures.
There are three stages of creosote build-up. The first is a flaky, crystal-like accumulation
which can be removed with a brush. The second is a tar-like coating. The third is a hard,
glossy enamel-like coating that is difficult to penetrate. If your chimney is heavily coated
with tar or enamel-like creosote, we recommend that you consult with an experienced
chimney sweep about removal and prevention.
PREVENTION: Without question, the best way to treat creosote is to prevent its
accumulation. In order to reduce the danger of accumulation, we recommend the
following:
1. Burn only dry cordwood. Dry wood burns hotter and expels less moisture to
condense.
2. Use the catalytic combustor properly. It can reduce possible creosote accumulation
by as much as 90% and improve stove efficiency at the same time. Be sure to read
the section on catalytic combustors.
3. Never operate your stove for extended periods of time with the draft control
completely closed. Both the wood fire and the catalytic combustor need oxygen to
burn efficiently.
4. Try to re-establish a hot fire, and re-ignite the combustor after every
reloading by opening the primary air control for about 10 minutes.
5. Check the catalytic combustor output. Use the thermometer provided with the
stove to be sure that the catalytic combustor is igniting properly when you kindle a
fire or reload the stove. The temperatures on the stove top should rise noticeably,
and pipe temperatures should drop, when the catalytic combustor becomes
engaged.
6. Avoid long, smoldering fires. Again, the catalytic combustor is critical here. Hot
firebox temperatures (with the stove top thermometer in the 400-600
0
range) will
produce more complete combustion and maintain proper catalytic activity.
Professional chimney sweeps are trained
to inspect and clean chimneys.
24
TROUBLESHOOTING
Woodstock Soapstone Company’s Customer Service Representatives are available by phone Monday through Saturday
from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m Eastern. You can reach us by calling toll-free 1-800-866-4344 or e-mailing [email protected].
This troubleshooting guide is intended to help you understand more about the operation of your stove and to be a help-
ful, accessible resource for you.
The Quick Draft Test
Many stove performance problems are caused by poor draft. One of the first things to do
when diagnosing operational problems is to be sure that you have adequate draft. If you
perform the simple draft test that follows, it will often tell you where to look for a solution to
your operational problems. (If the draft is not good, you would look for problems (1) with
basic chimney specifications, (2) with obstructions inside the chimney, (3) with a tight seal
between the stovepipe and the chimney - especially in fireplace installations, (4) with wind, (5)
with negative house pressure, and so on. If the draft is good, you would generally look for
problems within the stove or with the operation of the stove - (1) a plugged combustor, (2)
plugged air passages, (3) wet or unseasoned wood, for example.) Here’s the test:
1. Perform The Match Test: Light a match in front of the flue outlet inside your stove. If the
flame is drawn toward the outlet and chimney, then you have adequate draft to light your
stove. If the flame doesn’t move or is leaning toward you, you do not have enough draft and need to correct this
situation before starting a fire.
2. How To Improve Draft Before Re-Testing: Open a door or window in the room where the stove is installed. Wait a
minute or two, then light a match again in front of the flue outlet. The flame should be pulled into the flue opening. If
this doesn’t work, light a small piece of rolled up newspaper and hold it in front of the flue outlet. This should warm the
chimney enough to establish proper draft. If this does not work, you have a draft problem. DO NOT light the stove,
because you will simply get smoke back into the room. Read carefully the grid below, and try to determine the source of
the draft problem. Feel free to call us for help at 800-866-4344. Our toll free customer service help line is open from 9 to
5, (E.T.) Monday through Saturday.
Stove Smokes At Start Up Bypass door or air damper is closed. Check that air control and bypass
damper are both open (both
handles all the way down).
Chimney is blocked.
Warm the flue with burning newspaper or a
hair dryer and re-check draft with match.
Flue is cold.
Negative pressure in room. Turn off exhaust fans, open
window in the room, then do the
match test.
Flue is too large.
Prime the chimney by burning
newspaper in the flue.
Stove Puffs Smoke When
Combustor Is Engaged
Combustor is plugged. Let the stove cool down and clean
the combustor.
Not enough air for the fire. Increase the amount of air coming into
the stove by opening air damper.
Troubleshooting Grid:
Use this grid to help identify the cause and solution for common woostove problems.
Problem Cause Solution
Clear chimney and cap of
obstructions.
Install a liner that mathces the stove’s flue
outlet. A 6” or 7” liner is recommended for
the Keystone/Palladian.
Small difference between outdoor
and indoor temperatures.
Always perform the “Match
Test” before lighting your stove.
If you light a match and hold it
in front of the flue exit, the flame
will be pulled into the flue collar
if there is enough draft to light
the stove.
25
Warping Or Breaking Of
Cast Iron Parts
Overfiring as a result of
compensating for wet wood.
Burn dry cordwood.
Overfiring - too much primary air. After kindling a fire and getting the
internal
firebox temperature to 500°
(250° on stovetop or about 300°on
stovepipe), engage the combustor by
bringing the bypass handle up and
reduce the air damper to 1. You
should see the bright yellow flames
slow down and become more orange
in color. Make fine adjustments to
your damper (moving it closer to 0 in
1/8 to 1/4 inch increments) until you
achieve this slower moving, darker
flame.
Overfiring after reloading firebox.
Note: The cast iron parts in your stove are high quality class 30 grey iron.
They will withstand normal operating temperatures of up to 1400 degrees,
internally, ( or roughly up to 700° surface temperature). When iron parts
become warped or heavily oxidized (reddish-brown in color, with a rough
surface), it is evidence that they have been repeatedly exposed to
temperatures above 1400 degrees.
After reloading the firebox, let the
internal
firebox temperature come up
to the 500° mark (250° on stovetop or
about 300° on stovepipe) before re-
engaging the combustor and re-
adjusting your air control as above.
Stove Smokes Occasionally/
Erratically
Wind forcing smoke down
chimney.
Increase height of chimney or install
a wind cap.
Negative pressure in the home. Turn off exhaust fans, open a
window in the room, consider
solving pressure problems with an
HVAC professional.
Inadequate draft. Increase the amount of air coming
into the stove by opening air damper.
Wet wood. Use smaller pieces of dry split wood.
Flue is too large.
Multiple inlets to chimney.
Install a liner that matches the stove’s
flue outlet.
A 6” or 7” liner is recommended for
the Keystone/Palladian.
Connect stove to a chimney that only
has one appliance per flue. Block
other inlets properly.
Problem Cause Solution
Combustor Not Glowing Late stage in burning cycle.
The combustor does not need to glow
to be working. Check smoke exiting
from chimney to ensure combustor is
working properly.
Window Dirty
Air flow restricted.
Check air gap at top of stove window
inside stove. There should be 1/4”
gap between glass and edge of cast
iron. A smaller gap may cause
window to soot.
Smoldering fire. Open air control in 1/4 inch
increments until some slow flames
appear. Run hot fire to burn smoke
off the glass. Or, remove build-up
with glass cleaner when stove is cold.
26
Problem Cause Solution
Stove Burning Too Hot Or Too Fast Excessive air fueling fire. Adjust air control on stove.
Check gaskets with dollar bill test
(close the door on a dollar bill. If
you can pull the bill out between
the door and gasket, the seal is too
loose) on loading door, bypass
door, ashpan door. Replace
gaskets if necessary.
Consider installing pipe damper
in chimneys with excessive draft.
Check the air damper plate under
the rear flue exit. Make sure the
damper plate is not lifted off its
track. If it is, with a gloved hand,
gently push the plate up and rest
it back into the slide track.
Stove Not Burning Hot Enough Combustor not firing. Follow instructions for starting fire
and make sure firebox is up to 500
0
before engaging combustor. Once
combustor is engaged, set air
control at 1 and leave alone.
Wet wood. Test stove by making a fire with wood
that is kiln dried (available at
supermarkets or Woodstock Soapstone).
Heat going up chimney. Test by attaching thermometer to
stovepipe. Temperature on stovepipe
should register 200º - 300º while
combustor is engaged. Consider
installing pipe damper.
Acrid Odor During First Burn
Water Leaking From Chimney
Stovepipe installed incorrectly.
Paint curing/window gasket curing.
Open windows and try to leave
house during first several burns
until paint/gasket is cured.
Rain coming down chimney
without a cap.
Install a cap on chimney.
Install stovepipe crimped end
down to allow condensation to run
back inside the stovepipe and stove
instead of running down outside of
pipe.
New masonry chimney curing. Burn several fires without using
combustor in order to heat inside of
new chimney and cure masonry
completely.
Failure of seal on storm collar. If water is leaking along outside of
pipe, most likely rain is getting
through between storm collar and
chimney pipe. Re-caulk.
Is my Combustor still working?
Your catalytic combustor is viable for 12,000 to 14,000 burn hours. This translates, roughly, into a life span of 4 -6
years. If the catalytic coating is not working as it should, it is not burning the gas vapors in the smoke and there-
fore, the smoke exiting your chimney will be darker in color. If your draft is sluggish and you have ruled out any
draft related issues in the venting or in the wood supply, your combustor may not be burning the smoke vapors
and too much volume is trying to pass through the honeycomb at one time. If heat output is diminished, and any
other factors are ruled out, that may also be a sign that the catalytic combustor is not burning the smoke vapors,
therefore not extracting maximum heat from available btu’s in the wood you are burning.
27
SAFETY
Overview
To gain maximum enjoyment and benefit from your stove, you must have a safe installation. All guidelines found in
this manual should be adhered to. All local and national building codes need to be followed. Having a certified installer
perform all connections to an inspected chimney system is strongly advised. If you choose to perform any or all of this
work yourself, it must be inspected by either a Certified Wood Stove Specialist or a Certified Chimney Specialist.
You will often find the local Fire Department to be very knowledgeable. They may inspect your house for proper warn-
ing devices, fire extinquishers and evacuation routes. Keep their phone number handy. Although many communities uti-
lize Fire Department personnel for woodstove installation inspections, they are not usually trained as combustion vent-
ing specialists. Generally, you are best advised to use a certified specialist. The sense of security that comes with a prop-
erly installed and maintained system is worth far more than its cost.
Installation
Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove has been thoroughly tested and listed to UL #1482 by an independent testing labora-
tory. UL #1482 is the standard for testing solid fuel appliances and is universally recognized by all national building reg-
ulatory agencies, (SBCC, BOCA, ICBO) and individual states. Your woodstove is a safe product, but it must be installed
in accordance with the instructions in this manual. Woodstoves themselves rarely cause fires, but improper installation or
careless operation are often to blame.
Follow the guidelines in the Installation chapter of this manual with regard to:
• Proper chimney and connector pipe
• Clearances to combustible surfaces and objects
• Floor protection
Smoke and the Chimney
According to www.woodheat.org, “The chimney is the engine that drives a wood heat system”. To have a safe system
you must have:
• The correct type of chimney
• The correct size of chimney
• Correct location inside the house
• A properly installed system
Smoke spilling into the living space when starting a fire is an inconvenience. Smoke spilling into the house when you
are away or asleep can be a major problem. In order to have all the smoke go up the chimney all the time, the chimney
must have positive draft. Ideally, this draft is between 10-18 pascals, or .04-.07 inches water column, (a pressure measure-
ment), when there is no fire in the stove. A certified installer can perform a simple draft test for this.
Heat
Your stove is HOT to the touch! Utilizing the fall away handle and use of heat resistant or insulated stove gloves can
prevent serious burns when opening or closing the door or ash pan, of your stove.
Ash removal
Convenient and safe ash removal is a necessity for trouble free wood burning. An ash removal container should have:
•A comfortably large capacity
•Good stability
•A top that closes securely and will not fall off
•Legs or other means of preventing downward heat flow
•A design that prevents spilling when loading
Ashes should never be dumped into a combustible container, such as a cardboard box, and an ash container should
never be set on a combustible floor. Hot embers in the ashes can often stay viable for 36 hours or longer after removal
from your stove.
Precautions
•Smoke detectors: A smoke detector is inexpensive insurance and is required by most localities. They can either work
on batteries, or can be hard-wired into your electrical system. If you have battery operated detectors, it is a good idea
to replace batteries on an annual basis (i.e.: every New Year’s day, or 4th of July, etc). They will sound an audible
alarm in the event of the presence of smoke. Smoke will almost always precede a wood-fueled fire.
•Fire Extinguisher: If you burn wood, you should have at least one ABC dry chemical extinguisher. The chemical
extinguisher is preferable to water because the application of cold water to hot metal stove pipes can cause metal
parts to buckle or crack, adding more air to the fire.
•Carbon Monoxide Detector: These operate in a manner similar to smoke detectors but are usually user calibrated
and record minute quantities on a digital readout before sounding an audible alarm. The chances of carbon monoxide
being created and escaping from your properly installed and operated stove are miniscule. You may have other vent
ed appliances in your home that could be potential problems. The investment in a high quality carbon monoxide
detector is well worth its cost in the peace of mind it affords.
•Chimney inspection: Your connector pipe and chimney, or chimney pipe, should be inspected at regular intervals.
Examine the connector pipe for creosote, corrosion, loose seams, or excessive soot. Clean and replace as necessary. The
chimney, or chimney pipe, should be cleaned and checked by a certified specialist once a year. A small mirror held at
the cleanout door of a masonry chimney will be helpful. For a class A prefabricated metal pipe, some disassembly is
usually required.
Emergency Procedures In The Event of a Chimney Fire:
If you have a chimney fire or runaway fire follow these safety precautions:
1. Close the draft damper immediately, with a slow and even motion. This cuts off the supply of oxygen to the stove.
2. Call the fire department immediately.
3. Get everyone out of the house. One adult should stay in the house to check for sparks and signs of fire. Those out-
side should watch the roof for signs of fire.
4. If there is a danger of a fire, discharge the fire extinguisher into the stove. Do not pour or spray water directly into
the chimney as rapid contraction caused by the application of cold water could cause the tile liner in the chimney to
crack.
5. After the fire is out, check the stove, chimney connector, and chimney carefully for signs of damage. The entire sys-
tem should be thoroughly inspected by a certified chimney professional.
Note: Chimney fires must be put out from the bottom. The entire system must be air tight to suffocate a fire; hence the
importance of having a tight cover on the chimney cleanout and not venting two appliances into a single flue.
The length of time it takes to bring a chimney fire under control depends on the amount of fuel in the stove, the rate at
which it is burning and the amount of oxygen available to it. The faster it is brought under control the less severe any
damage is likely to be.
Gasket List
Part #
Desc. Location Density Amount
21063 .375” gasket Keystone Loading Door LD1 3 Feet
21092 .312” gasket Palladian Loading Door 3 Feet
21066 .500” gasket Bypass Frame LD1 3 Feet
21066 .500”gasket Ash Door LD1 3 Feet
21085 .250” gasket Under Combustor LD2 3 Feet
21209 .75” flat adhesive Window Gasket 11 Feet
21085 .250” gasket Flue collar & cover plate LD2 6 Feet
W-1601 2” Interam Gasket Around the catalytic combustor
(built prior to 06/2013) 4 Feet
W-1800 Furnace Cement 1 Tube
W-1605a Gasket Glue .5 oz bottle
A Full Gasket Maintenance Kit (202/204-MK) is available and includes the above listed gaskets (except interam
gasket), furnace cement, gasket glue, and steel wool.
PARTS LIST
Cast Iron Parts
W-174 Fallaway Handle
W-203 Leg
W-207 Door Frame
W-234 Base
W-239 Flue Collar
W-240 Palladian Front Wall
W-271 Keystone Front Wall
W-241 Rear Wall
W-242 Top
W-206 Palladian Flue Cover
W-274 Keystone Flue Cover
K-267 Palladian Door Assembly
K-272 Keystone Door Assembly
K-232/233 Key/Pall Door Knob & Latch Kit
W-231 Grate
W-235 Ash Door
W-236 Ash Door Lock
W-237 Ash Door Handle
W-238 Palladian Glass Retainer
W-243 Combustor Box Bottom
W-244 Combustor Box Top
W-245 Combustor Pan
W-246 Clamp Frame
W-250 Bypass Frame
W-251 Left Top Bracket
W-252 Right Top Bracket
W-253 Bypass Cover
W-254 Bypass Lift Guide
W-255 Damper
W-256 Damper Guide
W-257 Damper Handle
W-258 Instruction Plate
W-259 Rear Stone Retainer
W-260 Air Guide
W-264 Bypass Retainer (pair)
W-269 Keystone Glass Retainer
W-270 Keystone Andiron
W-273 Keystone Door Stone Retainer
Steel/Sheet Metal Parts
K-531 Stainless Steel Catalytic Combustor with Frame
K-805 Stainless Steel Scoop Assembly
W-805 Scoop plate & screen
W-2601 Scoop Post w/ thru holes
W-2593 Cotter Pins
W-2591 Bypass Actuator Handle
W-261 Combustor Heat Shield
W-262 Stainless Steel Bypass Shaft
W-263 U-Bolt
W-265 Damper Link
W-291 Ash Pan w/ Lid
W-293 V-Pocket
W-294 Bottom Heat Shield
W-312 Window Clips
W-2513 Hinge Pins
All steel parts manufactured by Woodstock Soapstone Company
Soapstone Parts
#pcs
W-276 Exterior Back Stone 2
W-277 Exterior Small Top Stone 1
W-278a Exterior Large Top Stone 2
W-279 Interior Side Stone 1
W-280 Interior Under Front Stone 1
W-281 Interior Back Stone 1
W-282 Keystone Exterior Key Stone 1
W-283 Keystone Door Stone 1
W-284a Exterior Over Door Stone 1
W-284b Exterior Under Door Stone 1
W-284c Exterior Under Front Stone 1
W-285 Exterior Left Side Stone 1
All soapstone parts cut and fabricated by Woodstock Soapstone Company
Other Parts
W-204 Glass 11.125”x16”x 5mm- Pyroceram III
W-2404 Black Phenolic Knob
8” Probe Thermometer
Surface Thermomometer
KEYSTONE EXTERNAL PARTS
Palladian
Front Wall
W-240
Palladian
Cover Plate
W-206
PALLADIAN EXTERNAL PARTS
Palladian
Glass Retainer
W-238
Palladian
Side Door
W-267
Hinge Pins
W-2513
Hinge Pins
W-2513
Keystone
Side Door
W-272
Palladian
Front Wall
W-271
Keystone
Cover Plate
W-274
Keystone/Palladian
Flue Collar
W-239
Keystone
Glass Retainer
W-269
Keystone
Andiron
W-270
Keystone
Andiron
W-270
KEYSTONE -PALLADIAN FRAME
U Bolt
W-263
Damper Guide
W-256
Door Stone Retainer
W-273
Latch W-233
Ash Pan with Lid
W-291
Ash Door Lock
W-236
Ash Door Handle
W-237
Ash Door
W-235
Base
W-234
W-203
(four)
Leg
W-203
(four)
Top
W-242
Bypass Shaft
W-262
Damper Handle
W-257
Damper W-255
Rear Wall
W-241
Door Frame
W-207
Door Handle
W-232
Black Knob
W-2404
Instruction Plate
W-258
Grate
W-231
Window Clips
W-312
Clamp Frame
W-246
Damper Link W-265
Leg
Bypass Actuator
Handle W-2591
KEYSTONE -PALLADIAN UPPER INTERIOR
Combustor
Heat Shield
W-261
Combustor
Box Top
W-244
Catalytic
Combustor
K-531-SS
Combustor
Box Bottom
W-243
Bypass Lift Guide
W-254
Bypass Cover
W-253
Stainless Steel Combustor
Scoop & Inconel Screen
K-805
Bypass Retainer
W-264(pair)
Air Guide
W-260
Right Top Bracket
W-252
Combustor Pan
W-245
Rear Stone
Retainer
W-259
Bypass Frame
W-250
KEYSTONE -PALLADIAN STONE
W-276 Exterior Back Stone (x2)
W-277 Exterior Small Top Stone
W-278a Exterior Large Top Stone (x2)
W-282 Exterior Keystone
W-283 Keystone Door Stone
W-284a Exterior Over Door Stone
W-284b Exterior Under Door Stone
W-284c Exterior Under Front Stone
W-285 Exterior Side Stone
W-279 Interior Side Stone
W-280 Interior Under Front Stone
W-281 Interior Back Stone
W-204 Ceramic Glass (x2)
W-285
W-204
W-204
Glass
W-284c
W-280
W-279
W-281
W-277
W-278a
W-282
W-278a
Keystone Only
W-276
W-276
W-284a
W-283 Keystone Only
W-284b
Catalytic Combustor & Frame
K-531
Left Top
Bracket
W-252
DIMENSIONS & SPECIFICATIONS
H x W x D ..........................28”x 25”x 20”
Flue Exit.............................Top or Back
Flue Size..................................7” or 6”
Flue Height to Center (Back Vent). . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.75”
Keystone Weight.............................440lbs.
Palladian Weight............................430 lbs.
Loading Door. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right Side Only
Loading Door Size (HxW). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5”x8.5”
Wood Length (Maximum)........................16”
Firebox Size.............................1.4 Cubic ft.
BurnTime..................................8-10 hrs.
Heat Output Range. . . . . . . . . . . 9,989-46,437 BTU/hr
Area Heated ........................800-1,300 sq. ft.
EPA 2020 Certified ...............................Yes
Listed to UL 1482................................Yes
EPA Emissions Rating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85 grams/hr
EPA Efficiency (HHV)..........................80%
EPA Efficiency (LHV) ..........................86%
Catalytic Combustor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Standard
Ash Pan...................................Standard
Back Clearance (no protection). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30”
Back Clearance (w/Heat Shield Kit) . . . 14.5” (top vent)
Side Clearance...................................18”
Mobile Home Approved .........................Yes
22.75”
28”
25”
18”
22.75”
28”
25” 18”
KEYSTONE MODEL 204
PALLADIAN MODEL 202
7” flue standard
Approved to reduce to 6”
7” flue standard
Approved to reduce to 6”
