Name: Woodstock Soapstone 211 ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID WOOD STOVE Ideal Steel Hybrid Wood Stove
Brand: Woodstock Soapstone
SKU: 211 ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID WOOD STOVE
Rating: 100 (1 reviews)

ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID

MODEL 211

Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.

66 Airpark Road, West Lebanon, NH 03784

Toll Free 1-800-866-4344 • www.woodstove.com

Tested To UL 1482-2011 7th Edition

Listed By PFS Corporation

GEAR HEAD STOVES

BY WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE COMPANY

OWNER’S MANUAL

Rev 0621

Wildwood

Foursquare

Prairie Wheat

Simple Prairie

Great Plain

Rustic

High Style

Tested and Listed by

OUR PROMISE

We are sure you will enjoy your new stove. During the first six months that you own it, test

its performance and experience the comfortable warmth of soapstone. If you are not thor-

oughly delighted with the beauty, quality, and energy efficiency of your stove, you may

return it for a full refund, including the cost of return freight. This is the best consumer pro-

tection plan in the industry.

EPA APPROVAL

This Manual describes the installation and operation of: the Model 211 Absolute Steel

Hybrid Catalytic Wood Stove

The Model 211 Absolute Steel Hybrid Catalytic Wood Stove meets the 2020 Standard U.S.

Environmental Protection Agency’s crib wood emission limits for wood heaters sold after

May 15, 2020. Under specific test conditions, this stove has been shown to deliver heat at

rates ranging from 10,000 to 48,000 BTU/hr., and average emissions of 0.5 grams/hr.

The Absolute Steel Hybrid has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be

altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood

heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

The Absolute Steel Hybrid contains a catalytic combustor, which needs periodic inspection

and replacement for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to operate this wood

heater in a manner inconsistent with the operating instructions in this manual, or if the cat-

alytic element is deactivated or removed.

LISTING TO UL #1482-2011

The Model 211 Absolute Steel Hybrid Catalytic Wood Stove has been tested to UL Standard

#1482 7th edition 2011 for safety, and is listed by PFS Corporation. UL Standard #1482 is the

standard for testing solid fuel heating appliances which is universally recognized by all

national building regulatory agencies (SBCC, BOCA, ICBO) and individual states.

Please Note: Tested and Listed for US installations only

LIMITED WARRANTY

Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove will be carefully inspected before shipment. We will

replace any part which is defective in material or workmanship, free of cost, for a period of

one year from the date of purchase. If a defect is discovered, please contact Woodstock

Soapstone Company, Inc. for instructions regarding return or replacement of the defective

part.

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR

WARRANTY

The catalytic combustor supplied with your Absolute Steel Hybrid Catalytic Wood Stove is a

Clariant Corporation, stainless, durafoil catalyst. The catalyst is fully warranted for three

years from the date of purchase against any defect in workmanship or materials that prevent

the combustor from functioning when installed and operated properly. The catalytic combus-

tor is additionally warranted for three years from the date of purchase for any deterioration

in the stainless steel substrate material. Operating the Absolute Steel Hybrid in a manner

inconsistent with the owner’s manual will void the catalytic combustor warranty.

For instructions regarding return or replacement of the catalytic combustor, please contact:

Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.

66 Airpark Road

West Lebanon, NH 03768

Phone: 1-800-866-4344 • Web: www.woodstove.com

GEAR HEAD STOVES

Gear Head Stoves is a division of Woodstock Soapstone Co., which is specifically ‘geared’ to

designing and building high efficiency, low emission, and more affordable wood stoves. The

first Gear Head Stove, The Ideal Steel Hybrid, was the grand prize winner of the 2013 Wood

Stove Design Challenge competition, which judged on efficiency, emissions, affordability,

innovation, and user friendliness. The Absolute Steel Hybrid is our R2Z (Race to Zero) stove,

our internal challenge to design and build a stove that reaches zero wood stove emissions.

Tested and Listed by

MODEL 211

ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID CATALYTIC

TABLE OF CONTENTS

WARRANTY INFORMATION/CERTIFICATIONS............ Inside Cover

EPA Certification, UL Listing, Warranty, Catalytic Combustor Warranty

INTRODUCTION & EFFICIENCY/EMISSIONS................ii-iii

Absolute Steel Hybrid Wood Stove Explained

INSTALLATION....................................................... 1-12

Installation, Location, Chimneys, Fireplace Installation, Clearance Table, Wall

Protection, Floor Protection, Mobile Home Installation, Setting up Your Stove

OPERATION............................................................13-17

Seasoning Your Stove, Starting a Fire and Establishing Draft, Engaging the

Catalytic Combustor, Reloading & Overnight Burning, Ash Removal, Surface

Thermometer, Overfiring, Daily Use, The Fall-Away Handle, Firewood

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR........................................ 18-21

How your Combustor Works, Inspection & Cleaning, Replacement, Catalytic

Probe Thermometer, Frequently Asked Questions, Catalytic Combustor

Warranty Information

MAINTENANCE..................................................... 22-23

Stove, Stone & Glass Cleaning, Gasket Replacement, Routine Checks, End-Of-

Season Maintenance, Creosote

TROUBLESHOOTING............................................... 24-25

SAFETY................................................................. 26-27

Overview, Installation, Smoke & The Chimney, Heat, Ash Removal,

Precautions, Emergency Procedures

PARTS LIST & DIAGRAMS......................................... 28-32

MAINTENANCE LOG & NOTE SHEET.............................33

DIMENSION & SPECIFICATIONS............................... Back Cover

Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.

66 Airpark Road, West Lebanon, NH 03784

Toll Free 1-800-866-4344 • www.woodstove.com

The Absolute Steel Hybrid Combustion System Explained

The Woodstock Soapstone Company’s tradition of build-

ing high quality, dependable wood stoves continues in the

Absolute Steel Hybrid Wood Stove. This new design com-

bines modern technology to achieve clean and efficient heat-

ing performance with rugged reliability and affordable steel

construction.

While the Absolute Steel Hybrid shares some time tested

features with other members of the Woodstock Soapstone

family, it also includes some features that are unique. The

Absolute Steel Hybrid has a large glass front that benefits

from our proven air-wash design. The firebox is lined with

thick soapstone panels, and the exterior is plate steel in order

to make the Absolute Steel Hybrid more affordable.

The Absolute Steel Hybrid has a hybrid combustion sys-

tem similar to the one that we designed in our Ideal Hybrid

wood stove. The combination of the catalytic combustor and

the secondary combustion system gives the operator a wide

range of heat output while maintaining a clean and efficient

burn. In addition to the Hybrid combustion design, the

Absolute Steel Hybrid incorporates two automatic catalyst

air ports to optimize the catalytic combustor’s effectiveness.

Hybrid burn technology improves efficiency, lowers emis-

sions, and allows for a wider range of output to meet the

heating needs of the operator. Hybrid stoves from Woodstock

combine the best attributes of both catalytic combustors and

secondary combustion systems. A brief description of each is

below, followed by a more detailed explanation.

Catalytic Combustion:

• Burns woodstove exhaust gases starting at 500

• Operates best at low to moderate burn rates

• Typically yields long duration burns that are clean & efficient

• Improves stove efficiency by generating heat from burning

wood smoke

Secondary Combustion:

• Burns woodstove exhaust gases starting at approximately

1000°

• Operates best at moderate to high burn rates

• Creates hot firebox for maximum heat output

• Provides a very active fire that is great for viewing

Catalytic combustors are well suited for very long burn

cycles. Catalytic combustors have the ability to reduce or

eliminate woodstove pollution at low stack temperatures.

This means much cleaner, more efficient burns at low fir-

ing rates than is possible without a catalyst. The catalytic

reaction eliminates harmful combustion byproducts and

converts exhaust to water vapor and carbon dioxide. The

catalytic combustor burns exhaust gasses and converts

them to heat, which is captured inside the stove. This extra

heat increases the overall efficiency and output of a cat-

alytic wood stove. The combustor takes full advantage of

the energy in wood smoke that would otherwise be lost

up the chimney as pollution and wasted energy at low

burn rates.

Secondary combustion systems are designed to maximize

efficiency and reduce emissions as well, but they operate dif-

ferently. The secondary combustion system introduces sec-

ondary air in the firebox to ignite the volatile gases produced

by the burning wood. This reaction requires temperatures

over 1000 degrees F to start breaking down the organic com-

pounds in the wood smoke. Secondary combustion systems

work best when the stove has high firebox temperatures and

secondary combustion air introduced into the high tempera-

ture area at the top of the firebox. With secondary combus-

tion the exhaust gases burn at very high temperatures before

leaving the firebox, providing an unusual display of second-

ary flames in the top of the firebox.

In addition to primary and secondary air, the Absolute

Steel Hybrid incorporates a system to introduce air directly

to the catalytic combustor as it heats up. When the catalyst is

fully engaged two self adjusting, bimetallic strips open small

dampers to allow heated air into the exhaust path just

upstream from the combustor. This dedicated “catalyst air”

keeps the combustor active and helps control primary and

secondary burn rates. As the stove and chimney heat up and

draft is increased, more catalyst air is added automatically.

This has the effect of stabilizing primary and secondary air

and at higher temperatures will actually reduce primary and

secondary air. The catalyst air design acts similar to a baro-

metric damper.The catalyst air improves emissions and effi-

ciency at high burn rates, provides overfire protection, and

stabilizes the burn rate automatically.

These systems are not mutually exclusive and have been

designed to work together. The Absolute Steel Hybrid is

designed to utilize each system depending on the conditions

present in the firebox. This makes operating the Absolute

Steel Hybrid as simple as possible while providing a clean

and efficient burn over a wider range of heat output.

The Absolute Steel Hybrid wood stove. The perfect com-

bination of affordability, innovative combustion technology,

and rugged construction.

INTRODUCTION

Absolute Steel Hybrid Cut-Away

Air Flow with Bypass Closed

Primary Air

Secondary Air

Catalyst Air

Legend

EFFICIENCY & EMISSIONS

Inside Testing of the Absolute Steel Hybrid

EPA TEST DATA

The following data is direct from our 2016 EPA tests for the Absolute Steel Hybrid. The Absolute Steel Hybrid

meets/exceeds the 2020 EPA Standard of 2.0 g/hr maximum emissions set by the EPA in 2015. The current test protocol

specifies “crib wood” using dimensional Douglas Fir. The efficiency is determined using High Heat Value (HHV). The

weighted emissions average is 0.50 grams per hour, and the weighted efficiency is 77%.

FACTORS EFFECTING EFFICIENCY & EMISSIONS

1. Burn Rate: As shown in the table above the lowest emissions and greatest efficiency was achieved by

running the Absolute Steel Hybrid at a low-medium burn rate (indicated in Tests 1-4). A lower burn rate gives

the combustor more time to effictively burn the volatile gases as they enter into the catalytic combustor (see

discussion in the Catalytic Combustor Section of the Manual). When operating your stove at a lower burn rate

you will achieve a cleaner burn over a longer period of time. Low burn rates are also how you achieve desirable

long burn times of 10+ hours.

2. Wood Quality: Cord wood with a moisture content between 15-22% is ideal for burning. The Absolute Steel

Hybrid will still burn wood with a higher moisture content with great effectiveness, however, the energy loss at

start up and reloading is significant. During the first stage of wood burning the moisture content within the

wood is expelled creating steam. The higher the moisture content the lesser the available heat value.

Kiln Dried Wood: Approximately 8600 BTU Available/per pound

20% Moisture Content: Approximately 6,200 BTU Available/per pound

50% Moisture Content: Approximately 4,000 BTU Available/per pound

3. Effective Fire Starting: The most effective method for an emissions free start is a top down fire. A top down

fire is built with the larger splits on the bottom of the firebox, the second layer should be medium sized splits,

and if possible running perpendicular to the large splits on the bottom, and the third layer should be small splits

On top of the small splits a generous amount of small very dry kindling and newspaper will be placed at the top.

The newspaper and kindling will produce enough heat very quickly allow in the secondary air and catalytic

combustor to ignite within minutes. You may need to leave the loading door cracked open to allow enough

oxygen in for a quick start. Within a few minutes you should be able to engage the combustor and start the clean

burn cycle.

iii

Test No.

Burn Rate

kg/hr

Test

Ave.

Emissions

Rate g/hr

HHV

(OHE)

Heat Output

(BTU/hr)

Weighting

Factor

1 0.956 399 0.140 80.30 14,426 24.18%

2 1.042 354 0.200 79.50 15,213 22.42%

3 1.415 269 0.500 74.80 19,895 19.29%

4 1.451 279 0.420 76.20 20,797 17.38%

5 3.411 105 1.520 70.70 45,317 16.74%

Weighted average emissions rate:

Weighted average heating efficiency (OHE):

0.50 g/hr

77%

Model 211 Absolute Steel Hybrid

INSTALLATION

LOCATION

A stove which is centrally located will heat the greatest area of your home. Heat

should be able to circulate easily into nearby rooms. Placing your stove near an open

stairway or register in the floor will help transfer heat to other rooms.

Other installation considerations are:

•Clearance to Combustibles

•Adequate Space for Wood Loading and Ash Removal

•Room Traffic Patterns

Most people install their stove in a room they use frequently where they can enjoy the

beauty and comfort of the stove. This also helps in the monitoring and reloading the

stove as needed.

A well-planned placement will enhance your enjoyment of your stove and may save

installation costs.

The best location for a chimney and

woodstove is in the center of the

house. The chimney will be

warmer, draft will be better, and

radiant heat will be distributed

more evenly.

ALCOVE INSTALLATIONS

THE MODEL 211 ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID WOODSTOVE IS NOT

APPROVED FOR

AN ALCOVE INSTALLATION. AN ALCOVE IS DESCRIBED AS AN AREA LESS THAN

512 CUBIC FEET, WHICH IS EQUIVALENT TO AN 8’X8’X8’ SPACE.

For over two centuries, New Englanders have heated their

homes with soapstone stoves. A properly installed and oper-

ated soapstone stove will warm your home and delight your

eye for a lifetime.

Read this entire manual carefully. It explains how to

install your Woodstock Soapstone Absolute Steel Hybrid

Wood Stove safely and how to operate it correctly and

efficiently. The clearances and procedures recommended in

this guide are in compliance with the recommendations of

the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), the

Underwriters Laboratories (UL), and the U. S.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). You may feel some

of them are very stringent, but they should be followed.

They were designed to protect you, your home, and the

environment. Improper installations are a major cause of

serious fires. Failure to follow instructions may result in

property damage, bodily injury, or death.

Before installing a woodstove, check your local building

codes and any requirements established by your insurance

company.

You may need a local building permit to install your stove.

Any changes in your home must comply with building

codes. If the codes have not been fully updated, you may

want to check with the Building Inspection Department or

your local Fire Department. A qualified stove installer

should be aware of any changes and updates to local and

state codes and may be best suited to handle your

installation work.

Many chimney sweeps are qualified installers. If you are

unfamiliar with sweeps or need to locate a certified sweep in

your area, you can check listings at www.csia.org (Chimney

Safety Institute of America). Builders and contractors are

another option. In some cases, homeowners install their own

stoves. Before installing your stove, please review carefully

the stove installation, clearance, and safety information in

this manual. Woodstock Soapstone has NFI (National

Fireplace Institute) certified woodburning specialists on staff

and available to answer any questions you may have about

your installation. If you have questions, please call us toll

free at 1-800-866-4344.

You should notify your insurance company that you are

using a woodstove. Before you light your first fire, have a

local building inspector and your insurance representative

inspect, and approve in writing, your installation.

When this room heater is not properly installed, a house

fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow the

installation instructions. Contact local building or fire

officials about restrictions and installation inspec-

tion requirements in your area.

CHIMNEYS

Your chimney is a critical component of your wood heating system. A properly designed and constructed chimney

will help to provide safe and efficient woodstove operation. Hot exhaust rising up through the chimney also pulls com-

bustion air into the stove through the air damper. If a chimney is too short, or the flue too large, the hot exhaust will cool

and slow down. This can lead to poor stove performance, smoke spillage, back puffing, and even creosote build up in

the chimney itself. An excessively tall chimney could lead to a strong draft, which may make the fire difficult to control

with the stove damper. A draft that is too strong could result in over firing the stove and lead to damage to the steel

components as well as the catalytic combustor. An uncontrollable burn or excessive stove or pipe temperatures can indi-

cate excessive draft. Whether you are installing a new chimney, or adapting an existing chimney to your woodstove,

close attention to chimney height, flue size, and location should be considered.

Chimney Flue Sizing:

The ideal flue size for the Absolute Steel Hybrid is 6” (28 sq.in.), which is the same diame-

ter as the stove’s flue collar.

If upsizing needs to occur due to an existing chimney the following general rules apply:

1. Interior Chimney (no walls of the chimney exposed to the outside below the roofline): the

inside cross-sectional area of your chimney should be no more than 3x (85 in

) the cross-

sectional area of the woodstove flue collar.

2. Exterior Chimney (if there are one or more walls exposed to the outside below the

roofline) - The flue should be no more than 2x (57 in

) the cross-sectional area of the flue

collar.

Recommendation: The Absolute Steel Hybrid has a 6 inch flue collar, thus an 8 inch x 10

inch rectangular or 10 inch round flue tile for an inside chimney are the maximum flue sizes

we recommend for this stove. For an outside chimney, an 8 inch x 8 inch square or 8 inch

round would be the largest acceptable. The smallest size we recommend is 6 inches round, as

the flue should not be less than the flue collar size.

Note: For flues that exceed the recommended area, a stainless steel chimney liner is recommended.

Height Requirements:

The chimney must extend 3 ft. above the point where it passes through the roof and must

also be 2 ft. higher than any roof surface or obstruction within 10 feet (measured horizontally) of the chimney. You should

check your local building codes for any other requirements.

The recommended minimum chimney height is 15 feet from the flue collar of the stove to the top

of the chimney. This includes connector pipe and chimney pipe. There may be other factors to con-

form to code for clearances on the roof, high wind, high altitude, etc., that may make the minimum

height undesirable or a violation of building codes.

CHIMNEY TYPES

DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER

APPLIANCE.

There are two acceptable types of chimneys: (1) A chimney complying with the requirements for

Type HT chimneys in the Standard for Chimneys, Factory-Built, Residential Type and Building

Heating Appliance UL 103 OR A code-approved masonry chimney with a flue liner.

Lined Masonry Chimneys:

Always have the chimney inspected prior to your stove installation. If your chimney is not lined

with appropriately sized clay flue tiles, or the clay tiles are old, cracked, damaged or otherwise

compromised, a stainless steel chimney liner or poured liner will be required. Depending on the

condition of your flue or clay tiles, the stainless steel liner may need to be wrapped in a high tem-

perature insulation blanket. A liner may also be recommended if your flue is too large for the draft

to flow properly (please refer to the section on chimney sizing). Our customer service department

can answer any questions regarding the use of a liner and/or insulating blanket. Call 1-800-866-

4344.

Existing chimneys should be checked twice a year for obstructions, creosote deposits, surface

cracks, chemical deterioration and poor construction. Any damage should be repaired immediately. Two other chimney

Installing a Stainless Steel

Liner in a Masonry

Chimney

Chimneys must

extend a minimum

of 3’ above roof

penetration...

... and a minimum of 2’

above the highest point

within 10’.

Terra Cotta Tile Lined

Masonry Chimney

related areas that should be checked are chimney penetrations at the floor or ceiling joists, and

at the roofline. There should be at least 2 inches of clearance between the chimney and floor

joists or other combustible materials. Poor flashing between the chimney and the roofline can

cause leaks and deterioration of chimney mortar.

You should make preliminary checks, but if you have any doubts, or are unfamiliar with

chimney construction, cleaning, or maintenance, have a local fire official or certified chimney

professional inspect your chimney. If repairs are required, be sure to use someone who is

knowledgeable in chimney work and familiar with local code requirements.

In addition: All brick or cinder block chimneys should have clean out access with a tightly fit-

ting door. Masonry chimneys should have a wash at the top. All chimneys should have a cap to

keep out rain and snow and to minimize downdrafts caused by wind.

Passing Through A Combustible Wall:

With an exterior chimney, in most cases the chimney connector (or stove pipe) will need to pass through a combustible

wall. The following are acceptable methods:

A. Use a section of Solid Insulated Prefabricated Metal Chimney to connect to the chimney - Use a section of insulated

prefabricated 2100° Class A chimney pipe listed to UL 103 HT (at least 1” of insulation or greater) the same inside diameter

as the stove pipe and maintain a 9” air space between the wall of the prefabricated chimney and the combustible wall. This

section of chimney pipe can be supported by a sheet metal plate securely fastened to the combustible wall, with a hole cut in

the middle of it. This will close the gap around the chimney pipe and the framed opening. (See Diagram A Above)

B. Build a solid brick surround around a tile liner - Frame a 3.5” thick brick surround into the combustible wall you need to

pass through. Maintain a minimum 12” brick separation from the clay liner to combustibles. The minimum 5/8” thick clay

liner should be cemented in place and run from the outer surface of the brick to the inner surface of the chimney. (See

Diagram B Above)

C. There are also UL Listed kits available that are specifically designed for passing through a combustible wall. For more

information on these kits, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company. Please note: there are several UL listed wall pass

through kits available, always follow the specific manufacturers installation instructions. (See Diagram C Above)

For other methods, please refer to NFPA 211.

REMEMBER, UNPROTECTED SINGLE OR DOUBLE WALL STOVE PIPE SHOULD NOT PASS THROUGH A

COMBUSTIBLE WALL OR CEILING TO CONNECT TO THE CHIMNEY. YOU MUST USE AN APPROVED METHOD

WHICH PROVIDES GREATER PROTECTION THAN SINGLE OR DOUBLE WALL PIPE.

Prefabricated Metal Chimneys:

For high efficiency, freestanding woodstoves, like your Woodstock Soapstone stove, a Prefabricated

Metal Chimney must be listed as Class A and carry a UL Listing of 103 HT (high temperature). The “UL

103 Type HT Class A” prefabricated chimney will have a temperature rating of 2,100° F.

There are prefabricated chimney systems that are approved only to 1,700° F and are suitable only for

fireplace inserts or factory built fireplaces. DO NOT use these with your Woodstock Soapstone stove.

At the point of the first penetration of a combustible surface (i.e., wall or ceiling) all subsequent

venting components need to be prefabricated “UL Type HT Class A”. If your prefabricated chimney goes through a living

Connecting your stove to a

masonry thimble.

The minimum clearance for a single wall

metal stovepipe and terra cotta thimble at the

chimney connection is 12”

Using a Prefabricated Metal Chimney section

to connect to an existing masonry chimney

located behind a combustible wall

Use a UL listed and approved wall pass thru kit.

Refractory

Cement

Insulated

section of

factory built

chimney

Sheet

Steel

Supports

9”

Refractory

Cement

Fireclay Thimble

12”

Stainless Steel

Connector

UL listed

insulated

thimble

Minimum required

air space

Listed wall

protector &

cover shield

UL 103 HT Stainless

Chimney Connection

space it must be enclosed, and that enclosure must conform to clearance standards for the prefabricated chimney. Your

chimney must pass through your roof and extend above the roof line in accordance with code standards. Please refer to

height requirements on Page 2.

Prefabricated Chimney Configurations

The diagrams below represent the most common and acceptable installations using prefabricated chimney pipe. The

necessary components are listed and shown in their appropriate locations. These components are Class A listed to U.L.

103HT (tested to 2100 degrees F.) Only components listed to UL 103HT can be used to install your wood stove.

Installation instructions are described below as examples only. More detailed instructions are available through

Woodstock Soapstone or the pipe manufacturer. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE SPECIFIC MANUFACTURER’S INSTALLA-

TION INSTRUCTIONS.

Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof

First, determine where the stove will be placed. Pay close attention to all required

clearances for the stove and connector pipe. Next, use a plumb line to locate the fin-

ish ceiling support in the ceiling above. Cut the appropriate sized hole in the ceiling

and frame in the necessary supports to secure the ceiling support. Install the pipe

adapter onto the first section of chimney pipe, and lower them into the ceiling sup-

port. Use an insulation shield in the attic to keep any insulation away from the pipe.

If the attic is a living space the chimney pipe must be fully enclosed. As the pipe

extends through the roof, install the appropriate flashing and storm collar to keep the

weather out. As the height of the chimney increases to meet code, it may be neces-

sary to install a roof brace (typically recommended at 5’ intervals). All chimneys

should have the appropriate cap installed at the top to reduce wind and weather

related downdrafts as well as deter any animals from building nests. The connector

pipe should extend from the flue collar of the stove to the pipe adapter at the ceiling

support. The male (crimped) end should always point down toward the stove. Be

sure that each joint has enough overlap for a secure connection. All connections should be fastened with screws, including

at the flue collar and pipe adapter. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation instructions).

Installation 2- Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof

Determine where the stove will be placed. Be sure all clearance requirements are

satisfied. Choose the appropriate support for your installation (support box or roof

support). Use a plumb line to locate the support in the ceiling above. Cut the appro-

priate sized hole in the ceiling and install the necessary framing to secure the sup-

port. Install the support according to its specific instructions. Be sure that the sup-

port hangs down below the ceiling far enough to maintain proper clearance for the

connector pipe (steeper slopes require more chimney pipe below the ceiling). Install

the pipe adapter to the first section of chimney pipe and lower it into the support

box (or connect it to the bottom of the roof support). As the pipe extends through

the roof, install the appropriate roof flashing and storm collar. Install the proper

chimney pipe lengths to meet code and recommended chimney height. It may be

necessary to install a roof brace for stability. Always install the appropriate cap to

the top of the chimney. Double wall connector pipe is recommended for installa-

tions that have 8’ or more from the stove to the chimney. Be sure that all joints in

the connector pipe are secure and fastened with screws, including at the flue collar

and chimney pipe adapter. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation instructions).

Installation 3- Through the wall

This installation requires the use of an insulated wall thimble to penetrate a com-

bustible wall. Typically a 9”-12” chimney pipe and pipe adapter will pass through

the thimble and make the connection between the interior connector pipe and an

insulated tee with a clean out on the outside of the bulding. The tee and chimney

rising up from it rest on a wall support designed to bear the weight of the chimney.

Install lateral supports as specified as the chimney rises along the exterior wall. The

appropriate flashing and storm collar should be installed if the chimney penetrates

an eave or overhang. An offset of 15 or 30 degrees may also be used to go around an

overhang. As the chimney extends above the roof to meet code recommended

heights it may be necessary to install a roof brace. (Please refer to the manufacturers

full set of installation instructions).

Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof

Installation 2

Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof.

Class A

Chimney Pipe

Installation 3- Through the Wall

Attic Insulation Shield

Chimney Cap

Flashing & Storm Collar

Stove Pipe (Connector Pipe):

Connector pipe is either single wall (sheet metal) or double wall (sheet metal outer pipe with a stainless steel inner

pipe). We strongly recommend 22 gauge pipe (26 or 28 gauge is too thin for use with a woodstove). The connector pipe

should be 6 inch diameter to match the flue collar of the stove. If your connection to either a masonry chimney or prefab-

ricated chimney system is more than 8 feet tall, we recommend the use of double wall connector pipe. If you need to

reduce clearances for your connector pipe installation, double wall connector pipe would be recommended. All pipe con-

nections, including at the flue collar, must be secured with screws. DO NOT USE GALVANIZED SINGLE WALL PIPE.

Connector pipe is designed to connect your stove to your masonry lined or approved prefabricated chimney system.

CONNECTOR PIPE SHOULD NEVER BE USED AS A CHIMNEY AND SHOULD NEVER PASS THROUGH A

COMBUSTIBLE WALL, CEILING, WINDOW, CLOSET, OR ROOF. At the point where your stovepipe meets the

chimney, you must either vent into a masonry chimney with approved non-combustible transition, or a prefabricated

chimney system with a specially designed transition piece.

FIREPLACE INSTALLATION

Your Model 211 Absolute Steel Hybrid Woodstove has an option of rear venting. The

centerline height of the rear flue is 28”, in order for the exiting pipe to clear the fire-

place lintel, the opening height will need to be 31” or greater. Installing the Absolute

Steel Hybrid stove in a fireplace setting is a great way to enjoy the view of the fire,

while greatly increasing the efficiency and reducing heat loss to the fireplace chimney.

We do not recommend placing the stove inside the fireplace, as it would make rou-

tine maintenance such as cleaning the combustor more difficult, and much of the heat

radiating off the stove would not circulate into the room.

The preferred method for installing a stove in front of a fireplace is by running a

stainless steel ‘flex’ liner down the chimney, connecting it to the stove at the fire-

place. Chimneys with large flues should be relined to achieve proper draft. If the

chimney does not have flue tiles or if the tiles are cracked or compromised, an addi-

tional insulating material must be used.

It is important that there be a secure connection between the stove and the flue

liner. It is NOT acceptable to simply install a plate in front of the fireplace and run

a stovepipe through it. The stove pipe must connect with the liner for a continuous

outlet to the top of your chimney.

Stainless steel flex liner kits come in a variety of lengths and are readily avail-

able. These kits include a flexible stainless steel pipe, tee with snout & clean out, a

block-off plate for the top of the chimney, and a cap. Please contact Woodstock

Soapstone Company for more information on these kits. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE

SPECIFIC MANUFACTURER’S INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.

If the fireplace surround is clad in wood trim, the proper clearance to a com-

bustible will need to be maintained. Please refer to the clearance charts on pages 8-

10. An unprotected wood mantel needs to be a minimum of 30” from the top of the

stove. If a mantel shield is installed that clearance can be reduced to 12”.

DO NOT VENT YOUR WOOD STOVE THROUGH A FACTORY BUILT FIRE-

PLACE UNLESS IT IS SPECIFICALLY LISTED FOR SUCH AN INSTALLATION

Most factory-built fireplace chimney systems are only rated to 1,700° F, which is not

sufficient for a freestanding wood burning stove.

FLOOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS

Your Woodstock Soapstone stove must be set on an approved hearth or floor protection.

The hearth protects your floor from two hazards:

Cap

Top Plate

Stainless

Liner

Cleanout

Tee & Snout

Components of a standard liner kit:

Tee with clean out& snout, stainless

flex liner, top block-off plate & cap.

Minimum of 31” of vertical opening for

6” pipe to pass under the fireplace lintel.

31”

• Heat Transfer: Heat radiation from the bottom, front, and sides of the woodstove

• Ember Protection: Sparks and hot coals that may fall out during ash removal and reloading of firewood

DO NOT INSTALL YOUR WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE STOVE ON A COMBUSTIBLE

SURFACE (WOOD, CARPET, LAMINATE, OR VINYL, FOR EXAMPLE).

Even if you have a stone or tile overlay on wood, it is still considered combustible since the surface materials will not

provide adequate heat transfer protection.

Your stove MUST sit on one of the following:

• A hearth pad of solid masonry (brick or tile on concrete and mortared in place)

• A prefabricated hearth pad listed to UL1618 approved standards. These pads are made to be placed on an existing

floor.

• A custom designed pad constructed of approved non-combustible materials which will protect the floor from sparks,

hot coals, and ashes; and prevents heat from being transferred onto the floor beneath.

IF YOU CHOOSE TO BUILD YOUR OWN HEARTH PAD

1) Start with a plywood base or subfloor.

Over this apply:

2) a layer of insulating board with an R-Value of at least 0.39 (equivalent to 1/2”of

cementboard). Depending on the material you choose, the insulating board can be

as little as 1/2” thick. For additional help with material specifications, contact

Woodstock Soapstone Company at 1-800-866-4344 or [email protected].

Over this apply:

3) Cover with a non-combustible material such as steel, tile, slate, stone,

or brick. Use mortar or grout to set the material in place, then grout the seams.

Specifications for floor protectors may be listed in terms of R-value, K-value, or C-value.

To convert K or C value to R-value use the following formulas.

K to R: R=1/K x T (Thickness of the alternate material)

C to R: R=1/C

Once alternate materials have been

converted to R-values, the values

of multiple layers can be added to

determine the combined protection.

If the overall R-value meets or

exceeds the specified .39 then the

materials are acceptable.

DO NOT

USE: Old-fashioned

stove boards that were commonly

sold in hardware stores as they DO

NOT have adequate protection and

ARE NOT approved for primary

floor protection under your stove.

Hearth Rugs also ARE NOT

meant to be used as primary hearth protection. These are made to be used in addition to an approved hearth, and are an

auxiliary decorative protection. They are not a substitute for an approved hearth pad.

Hearth Sizing:

Clearances for your Absolute Steel Hybrid stove on the front, back and sides must be taken into consideration when

determining the placement and size of your floor protection. The floor protection must extend under any horizontal con-

nector pipe and 2 inches beyond each side of that connector. * Please note: floor clearances (hearth) and stove clearances

to surrounding walls, etc. are tested separately and typically have varying clearance requirements. Both sets of clearance

requirements need to be met.

You can build your own hearth pad to fit

your decor. The hearth pad must meet a

minimum R value of .41

trim

board

1/4” slate or tile

3/4” plywood

or subfloor

non-combustible

insulation board

R-values of common hearth materials:

Ceramic Tile 1/4” 0.020

Granite 1/4” 0.020

Slate 1/4” 0.025

Cement Mortar 1/2” 0.025

Cementboard 1/4”-1/2” 0.20-0.39

Common Brick 2.25” 0.450

Common Brick 4.00” 0.800

Mineral/Ceramic Fiber Board 1/2” 1.10-1.470

Please Note: Always check with the manufacturer of the hearth material used

to verify the R or K value.

K Values cannot be added. Convert to R value before adding multiple layers.

PARALLEL HEARTH PAD

MINIMUM DIMENSIONS

A. Floor protection in front stove = 6”

B. Protection on loading door side = 16”

C. Floor protection non-loading door sides = 6”

D. Floor protection behind stove (top vent or rear

vent) = 6”

E. Floor protection under pipe when rear vented must

extend under any horizontal connector pipe and 2

inches beyond each side of that connector.

Minimum hearth size in a top vent/parallel install is 34.5”D x 46.5”W

Recommended size is 40” D x 57”W or larger.

A 38.5” x 57” rectangular hearth pad will allow for

8” behind the stove, 16” on either side, and 8”

in front of the stove. The hearth pad must have a minimum R

value of 0.39 (1/2” of “cementboard” covered with non-com-

bustible material such as sheet metal,tile or stone).

CORNER HEARTH PAD

Minimum hearth size in a corner installation must be 54”x54” (with the front corner cut off).

NOTE: On a hearth of minimum size, the stove will not be centered left to right, but will meet the minimum required

clearances.

Calculating a Corner Hearth Pad (per NFPA 211):

A=C x 1.414 + W/2 + D + Front Hearth Requirement

A =distance from corner to the front of the hearth pad

C = clearance from rear corner of appliance to wall (13 non-door side &

18” on door side”)

1.414 = a constant

W/2 = one half the appliance width (12.25”)

D = appliance depth (22.5”)

Front Hearth Clearance= 6”

Example:

Absolute Steel with the Rear Heat Shield & Pipe Shield

A= 18” x 1.414 + 12.25 + 22.5”+6” A= 66.2”

WALL PROTECTION

The Model 211 Absolute Steel Hybrid stove has been tested to UL stan-

dards for clearances to combustible walls. The minimum clearances to

unprotected walls are as follows:

Minimum clearances with no heat shields to unprotected combustible walls:

From the back------------------ 14”

From the sides------------------ 26”

DO NOT ASSUME THAT A WALL IS NOT COMBUSTIBLE BECAUSE IT HAS A NONFLAMMABLE SURFACE.A

wall with any combustible materials in it must be considered combustible. For example, a brick wall attached to wood

studs is considered a combustible wall. Over time, heat will pass through bricks and heat the wood, lowering the igni-

tion temperature of the studs, possibly resulting in a fire. As waves of radiant heat energy meet a combustible object,

heat is absorbed and the temperature of the object is raised, which can result in spontaneous combustion. Similarly,

wood-framed walls which are covered with tile, stone or fire-rated sheetrock must be considered combustible. Fire-rated

sheetrock is also considered combustible due to the paper covering.

If you wish to install your stove closer to a combustible wall than standard clearances will permit, you can either attach

an approved stove & pipe shield, or mount a ventilated, non-combustible shield on the wall.

PARALLEL HEARTH PAD

Measurements taken from stove body

Stove Body Width 24.5”

Stove Body Depth 22.5”

A=66.2”

54”

40”

20”

CORNER HEARTH PAD

Absolute Steel Hybrid shown

above centered left to right

D/E

Stove and Pipe Shields:

Clearances can be reduced by attaching an approved heat shield, Part #R-997 and pipe

shield, part #W-413. Woodstock Soapstone Company carries heat shields specifically designed

for this stove. When using one or both of these shields, clearance is measured from the back of

the shield to the combustible wall. The clearance behind the stove (in a parallel installation)

can be reduced to 8.5 inches. The clearance behind the pipe can be reduced to 6 inches.

Clearance Table:

The Absolute Steel Hybrid can be installed at a 14” clearance with no additional protection, if

the stove pipe is top vented, and the provided shield is installed on the inside of the rear flue

cover plate. To further reduce the rear clearance to 8.5”, you must attach an approved rear heat

shield and a 24” pipe shield.

These clearance reductions meet or exceed requirements of NFPA 211, Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel

Burning Appliances. Approved NFPA 211 clearance reduction methods DO NOT allow stove clearances to be reduced below 12”.

NFPA WALL SHIELDS MUST BE SIZED TO NFPA 211 SPECIFICATIONS. CONSULT NFPA 211 AND A QUALIFIED EXPERT

BEFORE IMPLEMENTING THESE REDUCTIONS.

The only approved method allowing for a rear stove clearance less than 12” is the Approved Rear Heat Shield (#R-997) provided by

Woodstock Soapstone Co. If your installation requires the use of the Approved Rear Heat Shield call 1-800-866-4344.

• These clearances apply to walls, ceilings, furniture and other combustibles.

• The 24” Vertical Stack Shield attaches to the back of the stove pipe and prevents excess heat from being radiated from the pipe.

Heat shield protection is only required for the first 24” of vertical connector pipe.

• At least 30” is required from the front of the stove to combustibles (such as curtains, wall hangings, and furniture).

The same clearances from your stove and stove pipe apply to both fireplace and freestanding installations. Be

particularly careful to check clearances to a wood mantel or a wood fireplace facade. You must maintain a 30” clearance

to an unprotected wood mantel. See Fireplace Installations on Page 5.

Rear heat shield & pipe

shield reduce required

rear clearance to 8.5”

Clearance Table For Model 211 Absolute Steel

Type of Installationu Top Vent Rear Vent Rear Vent with elbow Stove Sides

Stoveck Pipe goes

Type of protection

Stove Back Stovepipe

No Protection 14” 14” 23.5”* 15.5” 26”

With 24” Pipe Shield 18” 10” 26”

With Approved Rear Heat Shield, 8.5” 18” 10”

* 16”

24” Pipe Shield & Side Shield

/2” thick Masonry Against 12” 12” 20” 12” 13”

Combustible Wall*

/2” thick Masonry with 12” 12” 14” 6” 12”

1” ventilated airspace*

24 ga. sheet metal with 12” 12” 14” 6” 12”

1” ventilated airspace*

1/2” thick non-combustible 12” 12” 14” 6” 12”

insulation board with 1” airspace

Clearance from

stove back, top

vent, with

stove pipe

which goes

straight up

Clearance

from stove

back and pipe,

which goes

straight back

Clearance from stove back

and vertical single wall

connector pipe

with elbow at stove back

See note below regarding NFPA

211 clearance reduction methods

and implementation.

See note below regarding NFPA

211 clearance reduction methods

and implementation.

See note below regarding NFPA

211 clearance reduction methods

and implementation.

See note below regarding NFPA

211 clearance reduction methods

and implementation.

*Controlling clearance

CLEARANCE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS

2) Parallel Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Back Vent

WITH REAR HEAT SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED

A. Back of stove shield to wall = 8.5” D. Side of stove to wall = 26”

B. Back of pipe shield to wall = 8.5” E. Side of pipe to wall = 35.5”

C. Above pipe to ceiling = 18”

NO HEAT SHIELD

A. Back of stove to wall = 14” D. Side of stove to wall = 26”

B. Back of pipe to wall = 15.5” E. Side of pipe to wall = 35.5”

C. Above pipe to ceiling = 18”

1) Parallel Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Top Vent

NO HEAT SHIELD

A. Back of stove to wall = 23.5” D. Side of stove to wall = 26”

B. Back of pipe to wall = 15.5” E. Side of pipe to wall = 35.5”

C. Above pipe to ceiling = 18”

WITH REAR SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED

A. Back of stove shield to wall = 18” D. Side of stove to wall = 26”

B. Back of pipe shield to wall = 10” E. Side of pipe to wall = 35.5”

C. Above pipe to ceiling = 18”

Note: On rear vent applica-

tions, hearth protection must

extend under elbow or hori-

zontal section of pipe, and

extend 2 inches beyond each

side of horizontal pipe.

If you vent your stove through the rear, rather than the top, and then go up with an

elbow, the stovepipe will be closer to the wall than if you top vent (see illustration top

of page 10). For this venting configuration, we recommend using double wall pipe.

You must adhere to the clearances listed below.

WITH OR WITHOUT REAR SHIELD

& DOUBLE WALL CONNECTOR PIPE

A. Stove corners to side walls = 13” non door side; 18” door side (determines placement)

B. Back of pipe shield to side walls = 13” min (Approved Double Wall Connector Pipe)

C. Pipe to corner = 17” min (Approved Double Wall Connector Pipe)

4) Corner Installation, Double Wall Pipe, Back Vent

TOP VENT

The tested clearance with or without a rear heat is shown below.

WITH OR WITHOUT REAR HEAT SHIELD

A. Stove corners to side walls = 13” non door side; 18” door side (determines placement)

B. Pipe to side walls = 20” minimum

C. Pipe to corner = 26” minimum

3) Corner Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Top Vent

CLEARANCE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS

Illustration Shown with

Right Door

Illustration Shown with

Right Door

Because mobile homes are also referred to by HUD as

“manufactured” homes, regulations present a gray area.

Many “mobile” homes are set on a permanent foundation

and connected to public utilities. If you are installing a

stove in a mobile or manufactured home, check out the

requirements below and check with your local code offi-

cials. More questions? Give us a call Monday through

Saturday from 9 to 5 Eastern time at 1-800-866-4344.

While all stove installations have to meet National Fire

Safety codes, mobile homes are given special consideration

when it comes to installing a wood burning stove. These

additional regulations were established by the Department

of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), and result in

the following additional requirements:

1. Double Wall Connector Pipe

2. Outside Air for Combustion

3. Tie Downs for the Stove

4. Spark Arrestor on the Chimney Cap

5. Stove Grounded to Chassis

6. Stoves May Not Be Installed in Mobile Home Bedrooms

Double wall pipe must be used to connect the stove to the

chimney. This is stove pipe that is constructed with two

walls, usually with the inner wall made of stainless steel. It

reduces the required clearance to combustible building

materials and furnishings.

Outside Air must be used for combustion. Because of the

tight construction of mobile homes, wood stoves need a

way to get adequate air from outside the home for com-

plete combustion in order to avoid the risk of depleting

oxygen in the living space. Having outside air for combus-

tion is a requirement for all woodburning stoves in the

state of Washington and is recommended for woodstoves

in “super tight” new construction.

Tie Downs: The stove must be attached to the floor. This

is to prevent tipping in the event the home is moved. (We

can provide tie downs for our stoves at no extra charge).

Spark Arrestor: The chimney cap must have a spark

arrestor screen. These are available with most prefabricated

chimney systems.

Grounding: The stove should be grounded to the home

chassis.

Not allowed in mobile home bedrooms: wood stoves are

not permitted for installation in bedrooms in mobile

homes.

The Outside Air Adapter

is built into the design of

the Absolute Steel Hybrid,

and is located at the back

of the stove. It has a four-

inch collar which allows

you to attach a four inch

pipe, usually flexible dryer

duct, from the stove to the

outside. For long runs, the

flexible pipe can transition

to PVC or aluminum pipe,

if you wish.

Mobile home with pitched roof

MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION

CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE MOBILE HOME FLOOR, WALL, AND CEILING/ROOF

MUST BE MAINTAINED.

Woodstock Soapstone Company

66Airpark Road, West Lebanon, NH 03784

800-866-4344 • www.woodstove.com

Mobile Home Prohibition:

WARNING:

DO NOT INSTALL IN SLEEPING ROOM

Finish Ceiling Support

Grounding

Chimney Cap with Spark

Arrester

Class A Chimney

Flashing/Storm Collar

Mobile home installations require a number of spe-

cial considerations, including dedicated outside air,

tie-downs, and grounding to the chassis of the

mobile home.

Outside Air Adapter

Tie-Downs

Attic Insulation Shield

Double Wall Connector

PIpe

Outside Air Adapter and

Duct

SETTING UP YOUR STOVE

Attention: Remove the ash pan lid from the removable ash pan prior to lighting the stove.

Your Model 211 Absolute Steel Hybrid woodstove has been shipped assembled except for two parts:

1) The flue collar and cover plate, including the internal cover plate shield. 2) Required bottom heat shield.

All necessary hardware and instructions are also packed in the firebox. Any optional items such as heat shields will be

packed separately.

1) How to attach the Absolute Steel Hybrid flue collar & cover

plate, and the cover plate shield:

The Absolute Steel Hybrid is designed to be vented out the top or out the rear with an

easily convertible flue collar and cover plate. Each part is secure to the stove body with 4

bolts. You will need a 7/16” wrench or socket and ratchet to install these parts. The stove

is shipped with the cover plate installed over the rear flue exit with an internally mounted

heat shield. The flue collar is packed inside the firebox.

1. Decide which way you would like to vent your stove. This may be dependent on

the location of an existing chimney or the design of an existing hearth. Always pay

close attention to required clearances when considering stove placement

TOP VENTING:

1. If you are top venting, use the (4) bolts supplied making sure that the gasket on it

is secure and stays in place while installing. Use four of the bolts to attach the flue

collar to the stove body. The holes in the stove body are threaded to accept the bolts.

Alternate between the bolts while tightening to ensure even pressure. The bolts should be tight enough to firmly

compress the gasket. Do not over tighten.

REAR VENTING:

1. If you are rear venting, the cover plate has an internally mounted stainless steel heat shield. Two of the four

mounting bolts are longer to accommodate this shield and are diagonally opposite each other. Remove the (2) hex

nuts from these longer bolts using a 7/16” wrench or socket. Remove the shield and set aside. When rear venting

the shield does not get reinstalled.

2. Remove the (4) mounting bolts from the cover plate and transfer the cover plate to the top of the stove. Install the

(2) longer bolts diagonally opposite from each other (doesn’t matter which 2 holes). Install the remaining shorter

(2) bolts.

3. You can now install the flue collar on the rear of the stove using the (4) 1/4-20 hex bolts supplied.

2) Installation of the required bottom heat shield: (FACTORY INSTALLED)

The Absolute Steel Hybrid was tested and listed with the use of the bottom heat shield. The bottom heat shield MUST

be installed prior to lighting the first fire. The attachment instructions can be used for both the ash pan and non-ash pan

versions of the Absolute Steel Hybrid. If your stove DOES NOT have an ash pan, the shield will be flat sheet metal

instead of formed sheet metal.

1. Locate the (4) 1/4-20 studs welded to the bottom of the stove. The studs

can be found in each corner, just behind each leg. With the attachment

flanges facing up, slide the heat shield under the stove centered on the

ash pan housing. The shield is symmetrical so there is no front or back.

2. Each attachment flange has (2) holes, one on each end. Align these holes

with the studs and push the shield up over the studs. It may be easier to

have a helper during this step.

3. Thread (1) 1/4-20 nut on each stud. 2-3 threads is all that’s necessary as

you want the shield to drop down and rest on the nuts, this will leave a

small air gap. DO NOT affix the shield firmly to the bottom of the stove.

Image above shows a top mounted

flue collar and rear cover plate

OPERATION

Seasoning Your Stove

Both soapstone and steel need to be seasoned. The seasoning can be accomplished through a series of small to

moderate fires. Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove is an easy stove to season, because even a small fire will provide hours

of radiant heat once the stove is warm. There are two things you will notice during the first fire:

First, there will be a hot, acrid smell as the stove heats up. This smell is a result of the paint on the stove and pipe

curing. You will want to have your first fire on a day when you can open the windows in the house to provide adequate

ventilation. The odor is non-toxic and will only be present for the first few fires.

Second, there will be some condensation on the glass. This condensation is a result of any moisture being driven out

of the stove and condensing on the inner surface of the glass. It takes a couple of small fires to season the stove and

remove this excess moisture.

Starting a Fire And Establishing Proper Draft

1. Open the catalytic bypass. The bypass lever is located above loading door either on the

right or left side of the stove. Lift the bypass lever up until it stops to bypass the catalytic

combustor. The bypass must be opened before opening the load door.

2. Open the combustion air damper by lifting the knobed handle up to the 4 position. The

air damper is located at the rear of the stove (same side as the loading door). Push the

handle slighly away from the stove and move the lever up, this allows maximum air is

into the firebox.

3. Always confirm there is adequate draft before lighting the fire. Hold a lit match or light

a small piece of newspaper in the top/front of the firebox, where smoke exits. If the

flame is drawn out of the firebox, toward the flue, proceed with lighting the fire. If the

flame stands still or is pushed away from the flue exit, you must establish a good draft

before lighting a fire. A hair dryer or heat gun pointed at the flue exit is a good way to

establish draft without creating a lot of smoke. After you think you have draft, re-test

with a match.

4. Once good draft has been established, build a fire on the floor of the firebox.

DO NOT USE ADDITIONAL GRATES, ANDIRONS OR ANY OTHER METHODS

TO SUPPORT THE FUEL IN THE FIREBOX. Start with crumpled newspaper and dry

kindling.

5. Add small splits of firewood once the kindling has ignited. This will establish a bed of hot

coals.

6. Add small to medium splits onto the hot coals. Assuming the wood is dry, the fire should

spread through the wood. After about 10 minutes, close the air damper down between

around the 3 mark.

7. After the single wall pipe temperature reaches 250°-300°F, close the bypass by lowering

the handle down to the closed position. All of the smoke from the firebox will now pass

through the catalytic combustor. The combustor will generate a substantial amount of

heat as it “burns” the smoke passing through it.

8. Adjust the air control damper to a lower setting, the best burn setting is between 1 and 2.

Push the air damper handle gently away from the stove and and push it down to a

lower air setting. The closer the lever is to the bottom of the stove, the lower the burn

rate, as less air is entering the firebox. The final damper setting will be determined by the

desired heat output from the stove, the condition of the wood being burned, and the

draft through the chimney system.

The amount of combustion air

available in the firebox is con-

trolled by the damper lever.

Check draft and preheat the

chimney if necessary

Catalyst

Bypass Lever

The bypass lever interlocks

with the door when the

combustor is engaged

(bypass closed). This safety

feature makes it impossible

Engaging the Catalytic Combustor

The catalytic combustor will start to burn the gases and particles in the smoke when the temperature of the smoke

reaches approximately 500ºF (internally) , or after about 5-15 minutes of establishing a strong fire. Each stove comes with

a magnetic thermometer. Use the thermometer to monitor your stove/pipe temperatures. The temperature of the single

wall pipe is approximately 1/2 the temperature of the exhausting smoke, so when the thermometer on the stove pipe

reads 250ºF, it is approximately 500ºF inside. You will find that after the combustor is engaged, temperatures will often

stabilize or lower on the pipe - evidence that the heat isn’t getting lost up the chimney!

Engage the combustor by lowering the bypass handle (above the loading door) down until it closes completely. Then

reduce the air damper setting to achieve the desired burn rate. Make fine adjustments to your air control damper by

moving it slightly up or down. You may find that you can achieve the longest burn when the damper is only slightly

open. In the Absolute Steel Hybrid, allowance is made for a small amount of primary and secondary air to enter the

stove even when the damper is fully closed, and the stainless steel catalyst will work efficiently at low to moderate firing

rates, thus preventing creosote formation or excessive smoke from your chimney.

Low & Overnight Burning

These instructions are intended as a guide to operating your wood stove. Your

timing and final damper settings will vary depending on chimney draft, type of

wood, moisture content of the wood and size of the splits. The Absolute Steel Hybrid

is simply designed and intended to be user friendly, but it will take some practice to

understand how the stove works best for you.

1. Before you open the loading door, you must fully open the catalytic bypass and

the air damper. Wait a minute or so, before opening the loading door slowly,

for a strong draft to be established to prevent smoke from spilling back into

the room.

2. Wearing stove gloves, open the loading door and stir up the hot coals. If

necessary, excess ash should be removed before reloading the firebox. If your

stove has the optional ash pan, simply rake the hot coals back and forth in the

firebox to allow the loose ash to fall through the center grate into the ash pan.

If your stove does not have an ash pan, push the hot coals to one side and

shovel the loose ash into a non-combustible ash container with a tight fitting

lid. Dispose of the ash properly.

NEVER PUT AN ASH CONTAINER ON A COMBUSTIBLE SURFACE,

LIKE A WOOD FLOOR.

3. Place several small splits on top of the hot coals and allow them to ignite.

4. Load the firebox to capacity leaving roughly 2” of space for secondary

combustion, with a mix of larger and smaller splits. Close the loading door.

5. Allow the temperature on the exterior of single wall pipe to come back up to

250°, this may only take 5-15 minutes depending on the dryness of the wood

and draft conditions.

6. Adjust the air damper to a low setting, around the 1.5 position, by lowering the

air damper handle down.

7. Close the catalytic bypass by lowering the lever until it stops.

8. Initially the fire may appear to die out. This may cause a small amount of soot to collect on the glass. Any buildup

on the glass should go away with higher t emperature burns.

NEVER BURN THE STOVE WITH THE AIR DAMPER FULLY OPEN EXCEPT WHEN KINDLING A FIRE OR

RELOADING THE FIREBOX. NEVER BUILD A ROARING FIRE IN A COLD STOVE. IT TAKES AT LEAST 30 MINUTES

TO HEAT THE INNER SOAPSTONE PANELS OF THE ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID. ATTEMPTS TO REACH HIGH

TEMPERATURES VERY QUICKLY COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE STEEL OR SOAPSTONE PARTS.

Bypass lever should be up when starting

or reloading the Absolute Steel.

Allowing the smoke to heat up to 500° F

The bypass lever interlocks with the door

when the combustor is engaged (bypass

closed). This safety feature makes it

impossible to open the loading door with-

out opening the bypass.

CAUTION

NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID OR SIMILAR LIQ-

UIDS TO START OR “FRESHEN UP” A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM THE STOVE

WHILE IT IS IN USE.

Burning for Higher Heat Output

These instructions are intended as a guide to operating your wood stove. Your timing and final damper settings will

vary depending on chimney draft, type of wood, moisture content of the wood and size of the splits. The Absolute Steel

Hybrid is simply designed and intended to be user friendly, but it will take some practice to understand how the stove

works best for you.

1. Before you open the loading door, you must fully open the catalytic bypass and the air damper. Wait a minute or so

to establish a strong draft. This will help to keep smoke from spilling into the room.

2. Open the load door and and stir up the coals and remove excess ash as needed.

3. Place several small splits on top of the hot coals and allow them to ignite.

4. Load the firebox to capacity leaving about a 2”space for secondary combustion at the top, with a mix of larger and

smaller splits. Close the loading door.

5. Allow the fresh wood to become involved in the fire. With dry wood this may take 5-15 minutes, or until the exterior

of single wall pipe reaches 250°. Lower air damper handle down to the 3 positon.

6. Close the catalytic bypass by lowering the lever until it stops.

7. You should see the flames from secondary combustion at the top of the firebox becoming more active. Adjust the

air damper to approximately the 1.5 position.

Ash Removal

NEVER BURN THE STOVE WITH THE ASH DOOR OPEN!

Without an ash pan:

If your Absolute Steel Hybrid does not have an ash pan you will have to remove ash through the side loading door,

approximately every 5-7 days if the stove is in continuous operation. You do not have to let the fire die out completely to

remove the ashes, but the fire must be reduced to hot coals. First make sure that both the catalytic bypass damper and

the air control damper are open. This will increase the draft and prevent smoke from

entering the room.

Open the side loading door and move the hot coals to one side or the back of the

firebox. Scoop out the ashes that were underneath the coals, place them into a metal

container with a tight fitting lid and then reverse the procedure. Leave some ash and hot

coals in the bottom of the stove to help rekindle a fire.

With an ash pan:

If your Absolute Steel Hybrid is in continuous operation, you will probably need to

empty the ash pan every 7-10 days. You do not have to let the fire die out completely,

but make sure that it is reduced to hot coals. Open the catalytic bypass damper, and

open the air control damper. Remember to wear stove gloves - the ash pan will be hot!

Open the ash pan door located on the same side as, and below the loading door.

Carefully slide the lid into place on the top of the ash pan and remove the ash pan from

the base of the stove. The lid slides over the long top edges of the ash pan. Close the ash

pan door before emptying the ashes into an appropriate container.

Do not open the ash removal door while the stove is in the middle of a long burn,

because the additional draft created under the fire could cause the stove to burn

excessively hot and the ash pan itself will be very hot, and full of live coals. If you are

burning your stove 24 hours/day, it is often easiest to empty the ashes first thing in the

morning, after an overnight burn.

ASHES SHOULD BE EMPTIED INTO A METAL CONTAINER WITH A TIGHT FITTING LID. THE CLOSED

CONTAINER OF ASHES SHOULD BE PLACED ON A NONCOMBUSTIBLE FLOOR OR ON THE GROUND, WELL AWAY

FROM ALL COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS, PENDING FINAL DISPOSAL. IF THE ASHES ARE DISPOSED OF BY BURIAL IN

SOIL OR OTHERWISE LOCALLY DISPERSED, THEY SHOULD BE RETAINED IN THE CLOSED CONTAINER UNTIL ALL

CINDERS HAVE THOROUGHLY COOLED. LIVE CINDERS CAN TAKE 36 HOURS OR LONGER TO COOL.

NEVER SHOVEL ASHES INTO A COMBUSTIBLE CONTAINER LIKE A CARDBOARD BOX OR A PLASTIC BUCKET. DO

NOT USE A VACUUM CLEANER TO REMOVE ASHES UNLESS IT IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR WOODSTOVE ASH

REMOVAL. NEVER LEAVE A CONTAINER OF HOT ASHES ON A WOOD FLOOR, PORCH, OR ANY COMBUSTIBLE

SURFACE.

The ash Pan door is located at the

front of the stove, below the ash lip.

The ash pan door drops down and the

ash pan slides out from under the

stove for easy ash removal.

The Pipe Thermometer

We recommend placing the thermometer 8”-10”above the flue collar on single wall stove pipe if the stove is vented out

the top. If the stove is rear vented, the surface thermometer should be placed on the steel plate

toward the back of the stove.

If you are reading the single wall stove pipe temperature, the interior flue exhaust temperature is

about twice as hot. Since the 22 gauge sheet metal pipe is more reactive (faster heat transfer) than

the stove top, you will find you can engage the combustor sooner. We recommend engaging your

catalytic combustor once the pipe thermometer reaches 250° F.

Once the combustor is engaged, you should see the stove surface temperature rise and the pipe

temperature stabilize, then drop, indicating catalytic combustor activity. From a cold start it may

take about 30 minutes to get the stove up to temperature. If you are reloading a hot stove, wait

approximately 5-15 minutes before engaging the combustor. The thermometer is not a precise

instrument – it will not tell you the exact temperature inside the firebox or in the flue.

Overfiring

Burning a stove frequently at excessive temperatures is known as overfiring. When the surface temperature is

consistently over 700º F, the stove has reached 1400º F inside. Operation with temperatures in this range can lead to

metal warping, becoming brittle, and eventually deteriorating completely. It can shorten the useful life of the catalytic

combustor.

Avoid overfiring by letting the combustor and secondaries do most of the work in the stove. Your stove is operating at

peak efficiency when the combustor is “engaged”and the secondaries are ignited, with the damper lever set to a low to

moderate setting, and the logs are glowing with secondary flames apparent. You will get the greatest amount of heat

per pound of wood when the stove is operated in this manner.

Daily Use

Your Absolute Steel Hybrid stove is well suited for continuous firing on a 24 hour a day basis. It will burn for hours

on one load of wood, and will provide steady, even, heat for hours after the fire dies down. You need only disengage the

catalytic combustor when you kindle a fire, or reload the stove. Once the catalyst is ignited, it will continue to function

as long as there is smoke to burn.

Your connector pipe and chimney, or chimney pipe, should be inspected at

regular intervals (not less than once every two months). Examine the connector pipe

for creosote, corrosion, loose seams, or excessive soot. Clean and replace as necessary.

The chimney or chimney pipe should be cleaned and checked by a certified specialist

once a year. A small mirror held at the cleanout door of a masonry chimney will be

helpful. For a Class A prefabricated metal pipe, some disassembly is usually required.

The Cook Top

The top lid of the Absolute Steel Hybrid wood stove consists of a decorative metal plate. The lid

has been designed to enhance the beauty and versatility of your stove. The steel cook top is not

designed as a cooking surface and food should always be placed in a heavy duty Dutch oven or skillet,

not directly onto the steel surface.

The Fall-Away Tool

The “fall-away tool”, which comes with your stove, can be used to operate the door latch and the

bypass lever. Simply insert the tool into the door handle circle to use to safely open/close the loading

door. The loading door and the door handle are very hot, so use the tool provided. The “fall-away

tool” conforms to UL requirements and is made so that if you let go of it, it will “fall-away” from the

stove and not become too hot to handle.

Place the surface thermome-

ter 8” above t he stove top for

top vent, or on the cover

plate for rear vent.

DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS WOOD STOVE!

ATTEMPTS TO ACHIEVE HEAT OUTPUT RATES THAT EXCEED STOVE DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS CAN

RESULT IN PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE STOVE AND TO THE CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR.

The top plate comes in several styles and

can be used as a trivet for cooking.

Fall-Away Tool

shown hanging off

the stove.

Firewood

Your Woodstock Soapstone Absolute Steel Hybrid Wood Stove is designed to burn dry, natural cordwood. Higher

efficiency and lower emissions generally result when burning air dried hardwoods, as compared to green, freshly cut

hard woods. It is perfectly fine to burn soft woods in your stove as long as they are properly dried. Hardwoods are

preferable because they are typically denser than soft woods which gives them a higher fuel value per volume.

The moisture content of some trees may range as high as 50% – i.e., there is as much moisture in the tree as there is

wood. After wood has been cut to length, split and stacked for a year, the moisture content will usually range from 15-

25%. Splitting wood before it is stored will reduce drying time. Properly dried wood will produce more heat, reduce the

likelihood of water vapor condensing in the chimney, forming creosote, and result in less pollution entering the air. It is

safer and more efficient to burn dry hardwood than green or wet wood that smolders.

The advantages of burning dry wood are many. Dry wood is lighter, easier to split, and easier to carry. It is easier to

light, produces more heat, and generates less pollution. If you burn wet wood much of the energy generated by the fire

is used to drive moisture out of the wood, rather than producing heat for you. Dry

wood will maintain the highest combustor temperatures and burn the most

efficiently. Creosote is much less likely to form if you burn dry wood.

There are several ways to determine if wood is properly dried. Visual “checking”

on the end of the wood splits, dry wood will feel lighter, if you bang two pieces of

dry wood together it will sound hollow (wet wood will sound solid & dull) no

bubbling or sizzling from the wood as it burns. Moisture meters are a great way to

determine the percentage of moisture content in wood. Moisture meters utilize two

pin probes that insert into the wood and read the percentage of moisture. Moisture

meters can be purchased online.

Common symptoms of burning wet wood include: Difficulty getting the fire

started, smokey fire, dirty glass, creosote buildup within the stove pipe and/or chimney, low heat output, short burn

times, and excessive wood use.

DO NOT BURN pressure treated or painted wood, unseasoned wood, coal, garbage, solvents, lawn clippings or

yard waste, materials containing rubber; including tires, plastics, petroleum products, paints, paint thinners, asphalt

products, materials containing asbestos, construction debris, railroad ties, manure or animal remains, salt water

driftwood or other salt treated saturated materials, or paper products, cardboard, plywood, or particle board in your

Woodstock Soapstone Absolute Steel Hybrid Wood Stove. The prohibition against burning these materials does not

prohibit the use of fire starters made from paper, cardboard, saw dust, wax and similar substances for the purpose of

starting a fire in the Absolute Steel Hybrid.

Coal and artificial logs burn much hotter than wood and could cause damage through overheating the the steel or the

soapstone panels. Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or trash may result in the release of toxic

fumes and may poison or otherwise render the catalytic combustor ineffective and cause smoke.

Burning cardboard, loose paper, and trash will add significantly to ash and soot buildup, and it will not produce

much heat. Fly ash from improper fuel can also coat or plug the combustor, causing smoke spillage into the room.

Under normal operating conditions, the Woodstock Soapstone Stove is designed to last for generations. It is not,

however, designed for continuous over-firing, or firing with coal, artificial logs or trash.

Dry Firewood will show “checking”

or cracks at the end of the split

• UNSEASONED WOOD

• TREATED/PAINTED WOOD

• COAL

• GARBAGE

• CARDBOARD

• SOLVENTS

• COLORED PAPER

• TRASH

• LAWN CLIPPING

• RUBBER PRODUCTS

• PLASTICS

• PETROLEUM PRODUCTS

• PAINT/PAINT THINNER

• MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS

• DRIFTWOOD

• ASPHALT PRODUCTS

• RAILROAD TIES

• MANURE/ANIMAL REMAINS

• PLYWOOD/PARTICLE BOARD

DO NOT BURN!

THE CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR

Here is how your catalytic combustor works.

The catalytic combustor is a stainless steel honeycomb with hundreds of cells. If

you looked at the inside of each cell with a microscope, you would see that the walls

are uneven and filled with minute nooks and crannies. Precious metals, such as

platinum, are sprayed on the inside of these cells to coat all of the nooks and

crannies. This creates the largest possible surface area to interact with the wood

smoke. The catalytic combustor in your stove is very similar to the one in the

exhaust system of your automobile and works to achieve the same results - high

efficiency and clean air!

When you first start a fire, you should bypass your catalytic combustor and let

the smoke go directly up the chimney. Once wood smoke reaches 500º F (about 10-

15 minutes after restablishing a strong fire), it is hot enough to ignite the catalytic

combustor. As the wood smoke passes through the cells in the combustor, the smoke

reacts with the precious metals which line the inside of the honeycomb and both

combustible gases and particles in the smoke ignite and burn. This “catalytic burn”

reduces emissions and also increases heat output from the stove.

Without a catalytic combustor, between 5% - 40% of the chemical energy

contained in wood simply escapes up the chimney when wood is burned. Energy

laden gases are exhausted up the chimney where they pollute the air or may

condense on the inside of the chimney flue as creosote. The slower the burn,

without a catalytic combustor, the greater the amount of energy that is lost. A long

smoldering fire is the least efficient use of energy in wood, yet it produces lots of

smoke, which is the fuel supply for the catalytic combustor.

Most of the chemical compounds in wood smoke are combustible. The catalyst

produces high temperatures, which loosen the bonds of these chemical compounds

and “burns” wood smoke. A stove that “burns” these compounds and uses smoke

as additional fuel will burn more efficiently and produce more heat, while reducing

creosote and air pollution at the same time. However, most stoves cannot

consistently produce temperatures high enough to burn cleanly, particularly during

long burning times - hence the need for a catalytic combustor.

Your catalytic combustor can get the most efficiency out of every piece of wood if it has three things: temperature,

turbulence, and time.

1. Temperature. The catalytic combustor can only start burning the gases in the wood smoke after the smoke has reached

at least 500 degrees F (internal temperature). Before the smoke reaches that temperature, it simply is not hot enough

to start the reaction at the combustor. This will result in an inefficient smoldering fire.

2. Turbulence. The wood smoke can interact best with the precious metals inside the honeycomb cells if there is some

variation in the air flow. Increased turbulence enables more of the wood smoke to come into contact with more of the

nooks and crannies in the honeycomb cells. The exhaust path as well as the irregular surface of the combuster cells

adds needed turbulence.

3. Time. Once the temperature and turbulence are achieved, the catalytic combustor just needs to have enough time to

burn all the gases in the wood smoke. For this reason, it is best to minimize the amount of air you allow into the

firebox once the combustor is ignited. Allowing too much air into the firebox speeds up the rate at which the fire

burns and allows more wood smoke to be consumed by the secondary combustion system . The ideal air setting for a

long catalytic burn allows enough air to keep the wood burning and producing smoke.

With proper care, a new catalytic combustor will give years of fuel savings and lowered emissions. By following

some simple guidelines you can ensure maximum combustor performance and longevity. Your catalytic combustor is

designed to last for 12,000 -14,000 hours of use. You can ensure yourself of getting the maximum life from your

combustor by following these simple guidelines:

1) Burn only natural, dry wood.

2) Wait until the exhaust gases reach about 500 degrees F when monitoring temperatures with an internal catalytic

probe thermometer or flue probe thermometer, or 250° on single wall stove pipe, after restablishing a strong fire.

3) Bypass the combustor before reloading, and leave the bypass open for a few minutes after reloading, to raise

the temperature in the stove.

4) Don’t overfire the stove.

Bypass lever should be up when starting

or reloading the Absolute Steel. Allowing

the smoke to heat up to 500° F

The bypass lever interlocks with the door

when the combustor is engaged (bypass

closed). This safety feature makes it

impossible to open the loading door with-

out opening the bypass.

5) Clean the combustor regularly. See instructions below.

You can also obtain a lot of useful information by visiting our website (www.woodstove.com). Other very useful web

sites on all aspects of wood burning are (www.woodheat.org) and (www.csia.org). CSIA is the Chimney Safety

Institute of America.

Inspection & Cleaning

Your stove comes with a new stainless steel combustor already installed. The stainless combustor is a honeycomb foil

block located under the top lid of the Absolute Steel . Typical lifespan for a well maintained catalytic combustor is 4-6

years. There are a few ways to determine if your combustor needs to be cleaned. If you notice the smoke exiting your

chimney is thicker and darker in color, the combustor may need cleaning. Additionally, if you notice reduced draft or

backpuffing, or performance and heat output has diminished, then the combustor may not be working as efficiently as

designed.

Plan to clean and visually inspect your catalytic combustor about every 4-6 weeks, or at least 3 times during the

heating season. Any fly ash deposits on the combustor will need to be brushed or vacuumed off. An accumulation of fly

ash can reduce the draft, causing backpuffing, sluggish burning and inefficient heating performance. You should clean

and check your combustor before the heating season begins, as well as on a regular 4-6 week basis.

COMBUSTOR STANDARD CLEANING HOW TO:

Materials needed: (1) work gloves and safety glasses; (2) soft bristled

paint brush or vacuum cleaner (preferably one designed for ash

removal).

1. Be sure the fire is out and the stove is cold. If you are using a regular

home vacuum, it is extremely important that no hot ashes or embers be

sucked into it as this could result in damage to the vacuum or cause a

serious fire. Open the top lid. The combustor is located under a heat

deflector. To remove the heat deflector, tilt up the back of the shield and

pull it forward.

2. Lift the combustor out of the stove. Brush or vacuum the combustor

sure to remove all fly ash from the combustor. Inspect the gasket that

the combustor housing rests against.

3. Return the combustor to the stove. Be sure that it is seated properly.

Place the heat deflector over the combustor.

4. Close the top lid.

C OMBUSTOR VINEGAR & WATER CLEANING HOW TO:

The vinegar & distilled water cleaning is recommended 1-2 times

during the heating season. The vinegar is just acid enough to remove

any ash within the cells of that may be masking the catalytic coating.

Materials needed: (1) work gloves and safety glasses; (2) spray bottle;

(3) white vinegar; (4) distilled water.

1. Be sure the fire is out and the stove is cold. Open the top lid. The

combustor is located under a heat deflector. To remove the heat

deflector, tilt up the back of the shield and pull it forward.

2. Lift the combustor out of the stove. Place the combustor onto

newspaper or an old towel. In the spray bottle prepare a 50/50 white

vinegar & distilled water mixture.

3. Spray the 50/50 mixture through one side of the combustor and

allow it to drain onto the newspaper. Flip the combustor over and spray

through the other side and allow it to drain.

4. Rinse the combustor with 100% distilled water to remove any

remaining vinegar, allow the combustor to dry before returning the combustor to the stove.

The catalytic combustor is easily accessible. Just lift the lid,

remove the heat shield (shown above), and the catalyst is visible.

Heat Deflector

The heat shield helps deflect the heat generated by the cat-

alytic combustor forward

Catalytic Combustor

The catalyst can be removed by lifting it out of the stove.

5. Return the combustor to the stove. Be sure that it is seated properly. Place the heat deflector over the combustor.

6. Close the top lid.

Catalytic Combustor Replacement

If you feel that your catalytic combustor is not working properly, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company at 1-

800-866-4344 for instructions regarding return and replacement. Accessing the catalyst in your new Absolute Steel

Hybrid Woodstove is simple. 1) Lift the top stove lid, 2) Remove the heat deflector (pictured on previous page), 3) Lift

the catalyst from the stove, 4) Install the new combustor, 5) Set the heat deflector over the combustor, and 6) Close the

top lid.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. How does the catalytic combustor work?

A. The catalytic combustor breaks the bonds that hold the chemicals contained in wood smoke together. The result is

that these chemicals begin to burn at temperatures of about 500 degrees F (the normal range of exhaust gas

temperatures). Without the catalytic combustor, wood smoke would have to be brought up to a temperature of 1000

to 1200 degrees F in order to start to burn. A stove with a catalytic combustor will generate up to 25% more heat from

each piece of wood, thus reducing the amount of fuel used during the year.

There are three advantages to burning the smoke created by burning wood. First, the smoke becomes another source of

fuel, giving you more heat from the same amount of wood. Second, creosote causing materials will be burned up instead

of being deposited in your chimney, reducing the risk of a chimney fire. Third, air pollution will be drastically reduced.

Q. How can I tell if the catalytic combustor is working or “worn out”?

A. First - The best way to tell if the catalytic combustor is working is by observing the smoke coming out of your

chimney. If there is only a small amount of smoke, and/or it’s white in color, the catalytic combustor is working.

You will see significantly more smoke when the combustor is being bypassed than when the smoke is being burned

by the combustor.

Second - One very noticeable effect of a well functioning combustor is the high efficiency of your stove. Catalytic

combustors produce lots of heat, which the stove radiates into your home. If you notice that the stove is producing

less heat, or that a load of wood doesn’t provide as much warmth, under similar circumstances, as it did before, it’s

time to check the combustor. If and when the catalyst ceases to function properly, the stove will produce noticeably

less heat.

Third - Regular inspection of the connector pipe and chimney flue should show very little accumulation of soot and

creosote. Soot is typically brown and powdery when the combustor is working properly. Heavy buildup of black

sticky creosote may indicate the combustor is not functioning or needs cleaning.

If you suspect that your catalyst is not working, let the stove cool down and clean the combustor and try it again.

Q. How do I maintain my catalytic combustor?

A. Combustors should be inspected and cleaned if necessary every 4-6 weeks, or a minimum of 3 times during the

heating season. When the stove is cool, the combustor can be cleaned by thoroughly vacuuming or brushing both

sides.

If the stove does not draft well when the catalytic combustor is engaged then the combustor cells themselves might be

partially plugged with fly ash. If this is the case, follow the cleaning procedure described in detail on page 19 of this

manual.

Q. Is it all right to burn my stove hot daily to clean any build up in my chimney system?

A. It is not necessary to burn your stove hot daily to burn off any creosote build up in the chimney. This function is

performed by the catalytic combustor. It is there to reduce the emissions from the stove that contribute to deposits in

the connector pipe and chimney flue.

View more frequently asked questions and articles at our web site www.woodstove.com. Other very useful websites

on all aspects of wood burning are www.woodheat.org, and www.csia.org. CSIA is the Chimney Safety Institute of

America.

TWO OTHER IMPORTANT POINTS REGARDING CATALYTIC COMBUSTORS:

1) The combustor uses wood smoke as fuel. Most smoke is created in the early stages of the burn cycle. When a bed of

coals is all that remains of your wood, there is little smoke left to fuel the combustor, and it will no longer create

substantial amounts of heat. Hence, the temperatures on the surface thermometer tend to fall toward the end of the

burn, even though the firebox is full of hot coals. This does not mean that you have to reload the stove or open the

bypass. Let the hot coals burn down to ashes.

2) Since the combustor blocks the path of exiting smoke, it can reduce the draft in your stove. When draft is reduced by

warm or rainy weather, open the bypass damper longer when starting the stove to create more draft.

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR WARRANTY

The catalytic combustor in your Absolute Steel Hybrid Woodstove is fully warranted for three years from the date of pur-

chase against any defect in workmanship or materials that prevent the combustor from functioning when installed and

operated properly. The catalytic combustor is additionally warranted for three years from the date of purchase for any

deterioration in the stainless steel substrate material. For instructions regarding return or replacement of the catalytic

combustor, please contact:

Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.

66 Airpark Road

West Lebanon, NH 03784

Phone: 1-800-866-4344 • Web: www.woodstove.com

MAINTENANCE

Stove Cleaning

The steel body of your Absolute Steel Hybrid stove is painted with high temperature stove paint. Under normal

operating conditions, this paint will not peel or blister. We suggest cleaning by dusting with a soft brush or cloth, or

vacuuming with a brush attachment when the stove is cold. If the steel is exposed to moisture for a long period of time

it may develop surface rust. If this happens, brush the affected area until clean with either a short wire brush or medium

steel wool and then touch-up with high temperature stove paint, which is available from Woodstock Soapstone

Company.

The soapstone or firebrick that lines the firebox interior is rugged and well suited to the harsh environment of the

firebox. It should last for years under normal use. Should you need a replacement soapstone or firebrick part, contact

Woodstock Soapstone Company directly.

Glass Cleaning

We use ceramic glass in our stoves because it is resistant to both impact and

thermal shock. The panes of ceramic glass installed in the stove fronts have full

gaskets around the perimeter so there is no contact between the glass and the

steel frame.

There are two panes of glass at the front of the Absolute Steel Hybrid, with an

air-space between the two panes. This “thermalpane” arrangement helps to

maintain a higher temperature on the inside glass, which helps prevent

condensation and soot from accumulating. The Absolute Steel Hybrid has a

large glass area with an “airwash” design in which the primary air supply

washes over the front glass to assist in keeping the glass free of ash and soot.

The glass may soot up the first time you use the stove (from condensation

already inside the stove). Don’t be alarmed! Usually, as soon as you build up

adequate temperature with a hot fire, the glass will clean itself. The residue will

burn off, and it will stay clean. Soot accumulation on the inside of the glass is

more likely in the spring and fall, when temperatures are very mild and you are

less likely to maintain a hot fire.

To clean the inside of the glass or wipe off fly ash, we recommend that you

use a brush with soft bristles (like a paintbrush). A white vinegar and water

solution works well to remove most ash or soot accumulation. You may clean

heavy soot from the glass with very fine steel wool (0000 grade), but first, be sure

the fire is out; and second, be sure that the glass has cooled to room temperature

before you clean it. Once the glass is cool, you can lift out the two andirons to

give you easier access to the glass. Once the glass is clean simply reinstall the

andirons. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN HOT GLASS.

Gasket Replacement

There are 5 places on your stove where you should check the gasket routinely: (1) on the loading door, (2) under the

steel lid/cooktop, (3) under the catalytic bypass damper, (4) under the catalytic combustor, and (5) the ashpan door

(models purchased with the ashpan). These gaskets are most important for maintaining high efficiency and clean

burning. Close a slip of paper in these gasketed areas. There should be resistance as you pull the paper out. If there is

any evidence of deterioration and/or leaking in any of these areas or if any of the gasket material in the stove becomes

worn or frayed, it should be replaced. Please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company for replacement gasket and

instructions. The sizes of all the gaskets on your Absolute Steel Hybrid woodstove are included in the parts list on page

29 of this manual.

Routine Checks And End of Season Maintenance

Every few weeks of operation we recommend checking the chimney connector (stovepipe) and combustor (see

combustor section) and cleaning, if necessary. The connector pipe and chimney should be inspected every two months at

a minimum and cleaned if necessary.

For easy access to the glass for cleaning, simply

remove the two andirons by lifting up.

Insert the andirons back into the stove after

cleaning the glass. The andirons help keep wood

away from the glass and the air wash system

unobstructed.

When the weather warms up and the burning season is over, it is a good idea to do a thorough spring cleaning and

inspection of your stove and chimney system. We recommend an annual inspection and cleaning by a certified chimney

sweep who has the tools and knowledge to inspect the whole system, from top to bottom. Chimney safety is an

important part of responsible wood burning . The best way to gain confidence in the safety of your Absolute Steel

Hybrid woodstove is to have it serviced and inspected once a year by a professional chimney sweep. The Chimney

Safety Institute of America maintains a database of certified sweeps nationwide, visit their website www.csia.org to find

a professional in your area.

If you live in a climate with warm, humid summer weather, your stove may collect moisture from warm, moist,

chimney downdrafts during the summer. If this happens, you may get smoky smells in your home. One way to reduce

the likelihood of this happening is to block the flue exit in the stove with fiberglass insulation at the end of the heating

season. This will help prevent downdrafts and humidity from entering the stove. (You’ll have to be careful to remember

to remove the insulation before you light the stove again in the fall!). Some prefer to place a tray of kitty litter or baking

soda in the firebox to reduce moisture and odors.

Creosote Formation and Need for Removal

When wood is burned too slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to

form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result,

creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot and dangerous fire.

The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least once every two months during the heating season to

determine if creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote has accumulated it should be removed to reduce the risk of a

chimney fire. Cleaning the combustor regularly will also greatly reduce creosote buildup. Under certain conditions,

creosote can form rapidly.

The most likely conditions for creosote to occur are: (1) when filling the firebox with a hot bed of coals and the

damper is then completely closed; (2) extremely long, smoldering fires, and; (3) burning wet or green wood.

Lack of combustion air and smoldering fires usually result in dense smoke and low stack temperatures in the

chimney connector and the chimney. Wet or green wood can also produce dense smoke and excessive water vapor,

which can quickly lead to creosote buildup.

Creosote will accumulate faster in exterior chimneys than interior chimneys because of colder outside temperatures.

There are three stages of creosote build-up. The first is a flaky, crystal like accumulation which can be removed with a

brush. The second is a tar like coating. The third is a hard, glossy enamel like coating that is difficult to penetrate. If

your chimney is heavily coated with tar or enamel like creosote, we recommend that you consult with an experienced

chimney sweep about removal and prevention.

CREOSOTE PREVENTION: Without question, the best way to treat creosote is to prevent its accumulation. In order to

reduce the danger of accumulation, we recommend the following:

1. Only burn properly dried firewood. Dry wood burns hotter, cleaner, and expels less moisture to condense.

2. Use the catalytic combustor properly. It can reduce possible creosote accumulation by as much as 90% and

improve stove efficiency at the same time. Be sure to read the section on catalytic combustors on pages 19-21.

3. Never operate your stove for extended periods of time with the draft control completely closed. Both the wood

fire and the catalytic combustor need oxygen to burn efficiently.

4. Restablish a hot fire, and reignite the combustor after every reloading by opening the primary air control for about

10 minutes.

5. Check the catalytic combustor output. Use the thermometer provided with the stove to be sure that the catalytic

combustor is igniting properly when you kindle a fire or reload the stove. The temperatures on the stove top

should rise noticeably when the catalytic combustor is engaged.

6. Avoid long, smoldering fires. Again, the catalytic combustor is critical here. Hot firebox temperatures (with the

stove top thermometer in the 400-600

F range) will produce more complete combustion and maintain proper

catalytic activity.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Problem

Stove smokes

Back Puffing or

sudden internal

ignitions

Combustor not

glowing

Stove burning too

hot or fast

Possible Cause

Operating technique

Cold start

Blocked Chimney

Blocked outside airduct

Oversized chimney

Chimney too short

More than one appliance vented

into flue

Operating technique

Burn rate too low

Chimney down draft

Combustor is plugged

Tight house

Late stage of burn

Ashpan Door is Open

Excessive draft

Extra tall chimney

Solutions

Open bypass and air damper prior to reloading stove

Check and establish a chimney draft prior to lighting the

stove. If you have neutral or a down draft, preheat the

chimney with a hairdryer, heat gun, or twists of lit newspa-

per.

Examine chimney and stovepipe for blockage and creosote

accumulations. Check spark arrestor screen on your cap, if

you have one.

Check the outside inlet for blockage caused by snow,

debris, or insects.

Reline chimney to appropriate size.

Add height (industry standard is 15ft or more).

Disconnect other appliances, seal openings appropriately.

Open bypass and air dampers before opening to reload and

keep it open a few minutes after reloading.

Open air damper to allow for hotter burn.

In high wind areas, a specially designed wind cap may be

necessary.

Clean combustor of accumulated fly ash.

Dedicated air supply with outside air adapter attachment to

stove.

Combustor does not need to be glowing to be working.

Check smoke exiting chimney to help determine if combus-

tor is working properly.

Close ash door securely, check ash door gasket for tight

seal.

Adjust air damper to lower setting;a pipe damper may be

necessary.

Consider installing pipe damper

Stove burning too hot

or fast (cont.)

Insufficient Heat

Acrid odor during

initial burn

Window Dirty

High wind or hilltop location

Poor quality or green wood

Blocked outside air duct

Heat going up chimney

Paint and/or window gasket

curing

First start up fire

Airflow too restricted

Smoldering fire

Install wind cap on top of chimney

Use only dry wood (dried at least one year

depending on wood species)

Test with kiln dried wood.

Check outside air duct for blockage

Test with thermometer on 1st section of

stovepipe– temps should drop below 300 degrees

F when combustor is engaged.

Open windows until paint or gasket is cured.

This is sometimes the result of condensation in a

new stove, and should disappear after several

hot fires.

Open the air damper in small increments until

some slow flames appear. Run a hot fire to burn

smoke off the glass, or remove build up with

glass cleaner when stove is cold.

Green or wet wood. Burn dry wood, or open air

damper slightly for a hotter burn. (see above)

Is my Combustor still working?

Your catalytic combustor is viable for 12,000 to 14,000 burn hours. This translates, roughly, into a life span of 4 -6 years.

If the catalytic coating is not working as it should, it is not burning the gas vapors in the smoke and therefore, the smoke

exiting your chimney will be darker in color. If your draft is sluggish and you have ruled out any draft related issues in

the venting or in the wood supply, your combustor may not be burning the smoke vapors and too much volume is try-

ing to pass through the honeycomb at one time. If heat output is diminished, and any other factors are ruled out, that

may also be a sign that the catalytic combustor is not burning the smoke vapors, therefore not extracting maximum heat

from available BTUs in the wood you are burning.

SAFETY

Overview

To gain maximum enjoyment and benefit from your stove, you must have a safe installation. Adhere to all guidelines

found in this manual. All local and national building codes need to be followed. Having a certified installer perform all

connections to an inspected chimney system is strongly advised. If you choose to perform any or all of this work your-

self, it must be inspected by either a Certified Wood Stove Specialist or a Certified Chimney Specialist.

You will often find the local Fire Department to be very knowledgeable. They may inspect your house for proper

warning devices, fire extinquishers, and evacuation routes. Keep their phone number handy. Although many communi-

ties utilize Fire Department personnel for woodstove installation inspections, they are not usually trained as combustion

venting specialists. Generally, you are best advised to use a certified specialist. The sense of security that comes with a

properly installed and maintained system is worth far more than its cost.

Installation

Your Woodstock Soapstone Co. Stove has been thoroughly tested and listed to UL #1482 by an independent testing

laboratory. UL #1482 is the standard for testing solid fuel appliances and is universally recognized by all national build-

ing regulatory agencies, (SBCC, BOCA, ICBO) and individual states. Your woodstove is a safe product, but it must be

installed in accordance with the instructions in this manual. Woodstoves themselves rarely cause fires, but improper

installation or careless operation are often to blame.

Follow the guidelines in the Installation chapter of this manual with regard to:

• Proper chimney and connector pipe

• Clearances to combustible surfaces and objects

• Floor protection

Smoke and the Chimney

According to www.woodheat.org, “The chimney is the engine that drives a wood heat system”. To have a safe system

you must have:

• The correct type of chimney

• The correct size of chimney

• Correct location inside the house

• A properly installed system

Smoke spilling into the living space when starting a fire is an inconvenience. Smoke spilling into the house when you

are away or asleep can be a major problem. In order to have all the smoke go up the chimney all the time, the chimney

must have positive draft. Ideally, this draft is between 10-18 pascals, or .04-.07 inches water column, a pressure measure-

ment, when there is no fire in the stove. A certified installer can perform a simple draft test for this.

Hot Surfaces

Your stove is HOT to the touch! Utilizing the fall-away tool and use of heat resistant or insulated stove gloves can pre-

vent serious burns when opening or closing the door, ash pan, or lid of your stove.

Ash removal

Convenient and safe ash removal is a necessity for trouble free wood burning. An ash removal container should have:

•A comfortably large capacity

•Good stability

•A top that closes securely and will not fall off

•Legs or other means of preventing downward heat flow

•A design that prevents spilling when loading

Ashes should never be dumped into a combustible container, such as a cardboard box, and an ash container should

never be set on a combustible surface. Hot embers in the ashes can often stay viable for 36 hours or longer after removal

from your stove.

Precautions

•Smoke detectors: A smoke detector is inexpensive insurance and is required by most localities. They can either work

on batteries, or can be hard-wired into your electrical system. If you have battery operated detectors, it is a good idea

to replace batteries on an annual basis (i.e.: every New Year’s day, or 4th of July, etc). They will sound an audible

alarm in the event of the presence of smoke. Smoke will almost always precede a wood fueled fire.

•Fire Extinguisher: If you burn wood, you should have at least one ABC dry chemical extinguisher. The chemical

extinguisher is preferable to water because the application of cold water to hot metal stove pipes can cause metal

parts to buckle or crack, thereby releasing more fuel to the fire.

•Carbon Monoxide Detector: These operate in a manner similar to smoke detectors but are usually user calibrated

and record minute quantities on a digital readout before sounding an audible alarm. The chances of carbon monoxide

being created and escaping from your properly installed and operated stove are miniscule. You may have other vent-

ed appliances in your home that could be potential problems. The investment in a high quality carbon monoxide

detector is well worth its cost in the peace of mind it affords.

•Chimney inspection: Your connector pipe and chimney, or chimney pipe, should be inspected at regular intervals.

Examine the connector pipe for creosote, corrosion, loose seams, or excessive soot. Clean and replace as necessary. The

chimney, or chimney pipe, should be cleaned and checked by a certified specialist once a year. A small mirror held at

the cleanout door of a masonry chimney will be helpful. For a Class A prefabricated metal pipe, some disassembly is

usually required.

Emergency Procedures In The Event of a Chimney Fire:

If you have a chimney fire or runaway fire, follow these safety precautions:

1. Close the draft damper immediately, with a slow and even motion. This cuts off the supply of oxygen to the stove.

2. Call the fire department immediately.

3. Get everyone out of the house. One adult should stay in the house to check for sparks and signs of fire. Those out-

side should watch the roof for signs of fire.

4. If there is a danger of a fire, discharge the fire extinguisher into the stove. Do not pour or spray water directly into

the chimney as rapid contraction caused by the application of cold water could cause the tile liner in the chimney to

crack.

5. After the fire is out, check the stove, chimney connector and chimney carefully for signs of damage. The entire sys-

tem should be thoroughly inspected by a certified chimney professional.

Note: Chimney fires must be put out from the bottom. The entire system must be air tight to suffocate a fire; hence the

importance of having a tight cover on the chimney cleanout and not venting two appliances into a single flue.

The length of time it takes to bring a chimney fire under control depends on the amount of fuel in the stove, the rate at

which it is burning and the amount of oxygen available to it. The faster it is brought under control the less severe any

damage is likely to be.

REPLACEMENT PARTS

TOP VIEW

FRONT VIEW

SIDE VIEW

BACK VIEW

CUT-AWAY VIEW

BOTTOM VIEW

COMPLETE AS-

PART NO. DESCRIPTION QTY/PER

R-10 DOOR ASSEMBLY 1

R-18 FLUE COLLAR ASSEMBLY 1

R-22 AIR INTAKE WHEEL ASSEMBLY 1

R-26 TOP LID ASSEMBLY 1

R-30 BRICK RETAINER ASSEMBLY 1

R-32 ANDIRON HOLDER ASSEMBLY 2

R-34 PRIMARY JET INLET ASSEMBLY 2

R-46 RACHET, AIR INTAKE ASSEMBLY 1

R-48 OUTSIDE AIR ADAPTOR ASSEMBLY 1

R-50 GRATE ASSEMBLY 1

R-52 SOAPSTONE LINER ASSEMBLY 1

R-54 TERTIARY AIR INLET ASSEMBLY 2

PART NO. DESCRIPTION QTY/PER MATERIAL

R-907 HINGE PIN, DOOR 2 STEEL

R-193 HANDLE, DOOR 1 STEEL

R-925 BYPASS COVER 1 STEEL

R-513 HEAT SHIELD, BYPASS COVER 1 SS

R-935 HANDLE, BYPASS 1 STEEL

R-165 TOP LID 1 STEEL

R-515 HEAT SHIELD, TOP LID 1 SS

R-163 FLUE COVER 1 STEEL

R-145 GLASS RETAINER 1 STEEL

R-904 GLASS, HIGH TEMP: 5 MM CERAMIC 2 GLASS

R-981 ASH PAN (PG-934) 1 STEEL

R-983 ASH PAN COVER (PG-989) 1 STEEL

R-917 HINGE PIN, ASH DOOR 1 STEEL

R-121 HANDLE, ASH DOOR 1 STEEL

R-913 ASH DOOR, OUTER 1 STEEL

R-941 HANDLE, AIR INTAKE 1 STEEL

R-943 KNOB, AIR INTAKE 1 PHENOLIC

R-997 HEAT SHIELD, REAR 1 STEEL

R-995 HEAT SHILD, BOTTOM 1 STEEL

R-523 HOOD, COMBUSTOR 1 SS

GASKET SPEC-

PART SPECIFICATION

TOP LID 0.875” MD DENSITY ROPE

64”

BYPASS 0.625” LD2 BASALT ROPE

42”

COMBUSTOR 0.625” LD2 BASALT ROPE

38”

DOOR 0.875” MD DENSITY ROPE

52”

ASH PAN DOOR 0.500 MD ROPE

32”

OUTER GLASS BH .125 x .750 GRAPHITE TAPE /.187 x .750 TAPE

58”

INNER GLASS BH .1875 x .750 GRAPHITE TAPE /.187 x .750 TAPE

58”

FLUE COLLAR BH .125x.750 GRAPHITE TAPE CUT IN HALF

34”

FLUE COVER BH .125x.750 GRAPHITE TAPE CUT IN HALF

34”

OAA BH .125x.750 GRAPHITE TAPE CUT IN HALF

121”

COMBUSTOR

INDIVIDUAL PARTS AVAILABLE FOR REPLACEMENT

REPLACEMENT PARTS

COMPLETE ASSEMBLIES AVAILABLE AS REPLACEMENT PARTS

GASKET SPECIFICATIONS

R-56: 5.25” x 10”x 2.125” CANNED DIM. DURAFOIL OR EQUIVALENT. 49 CELLS PER SQ INCH

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR SPECIFICATIONS

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INSIDE LINER REPLACEMENT PARTS

REPLACEMENT PARTS

R-34 PRIMARY JET

INLET ASSEMBLY

R-50 GRATE ASSEMBLY

R-32a ANDIRON

R-54 TERTIARY AIR

INLET ASSEMBLY

R-48 OUTSIDE AIR

ADAPTOR ASSEMBLY

TUBE

GRATE

LONG SPACER

SHORT SPACER

INLET

SCREW

BIMETALLIC

INLET FLAP

COVER

COLLAR

BAND

REPLACEMENT PARTS

R-22 AIR INTAKE WHEEL ASSEMBLY

R-22 BYPASS DAMPER ASSEMBLY

AIR MIxER

HUB

PHENOLIC KNOB

AIR MIx ROD

LOCK

NUT

BEARING

STAINLESS STEEL SHIELD

BYPASS DAMPER

COLLAR

HANDLE

SET

SCREW

MAINTENANCE LOG & NOTES

DIMENSIONS & SPECIFICATIONS

Dimensions of Standard Height Stoves:

Curved Wing & Triangle Wing Styles:

H x W x D (includes ash lip & skirting). . . . . . 33.25”x30”x27.25”

Wingless Styles:

H x W x D (includes ash lip & skirting). . . . . . . 33.25”x25.5”x24”

Footprint..................................25” W x 20” D

Flue Height to Center (Rear Vent). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28”

Weight............................................490 lbs.

Dimensions of High Style Stove:

H x W x D (includes ash lip & skirting). . . . . 45.5”x 27”x 25.125”

Footprint.............................25.5” W x 21.125” D

Flue Height to Center (Rear vent). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.625”

Weight............................................530 lbs.

Specifications for All Absolute Styles:

EPA 2020 Certified....................................Yes

Listed to UL 1482.....................................Yes

EPA Emissions Rating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 grams/hr

EPA Efficiency........................................77%

Catalytic Combustor & Secondary Air . . . . Standard

Bottom Heat Shield.......................Standard

Area Heated. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . up to 1,800 sq. ft.

Flue Exit..............................Top or Back

Flue Size........................................6”

Ash Pan..................................Optional

Loading Door. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right or Left Side

Loading Door Opening (W x H). . . . . . . . . . . . . 12”x10”

Draft Control..............................Manual

Back Clearance (no protection). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14”

Back Clearance (w/Heat Shield Kit) . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5”

Side Clearance.................................26”

Wood Length (Maximum). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-18”

Window Size (viewable).........................14.5” W x 13”H

Firebox Size...........................2.45 Cubic ft.

Burn Time................................10-14 hrs.

Heat Output Range. . . . . . . . . 10,000-48,000 BTU/hr.

Standard Leg

27.5”

Curved/

Triangle

Wing

24.5”

stovetop

20.5”

24”

Wingless

Styles

23.5” leg-to-leg

33.25”

22.5”

28”

Centerline

6”rear

flue exit

Absolute “High Style” Model:

Absolute Standard Leg Height Styles:

GEAR HEAD STOVES

BY WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE COMPANY

Woodstock Soapstone 211 ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID WOOD STOVE Ideal Steel Hybrid Wood Stove

Product's Documents

Owner’s Manual

Specifications

Woodstock Soapstone 211 ABSOLUTE STEEL HYBRID WOOD STOVE Questions and Answers

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