Hoshizaki KM2100SRH-350 Crescent Ice Maker Remote Head Only User Manual

Hoshizaki

“A Superior Degree

of Reliability”

www.hoshizaki.com

Models

KM1601SRH350

KM1900SAH350

KM2100SRH350

Stackable Crescent Cuber

Hoshizaki America, Inc.

SERVICE MANUAL

™

Number: 73174

Issued:11-13-2009



IMPORTANT

Only qualied service technicians should attempt to install, service, or maintain

this icemaker. No service or maintenance should be undertaken until the

technician has thoroughly read this Service Manual. Failure to service and

maintain the equipment in accordance with this manual may adversely affect

safety, performance, and warranty coverage.

Hoshizaki provides this manual primarily to assist qualied service technicians in the

service and maintenance of the icemaker.

Should the reader have any questions or concerns which have not been satisfactorily

addressed, please call, write, or send an e-mail message to the Hoshizaki Technical

Support Department for assistance.

HOSHIZAKI AMERICA, INC.

618 Highway 74 South

Peachtree City, GA 3069

Attn: Hoshizaki Technical Support Department

Phone: 1-800-33-1940 Technical Support

(770) 487-331

Fax: 1-800-843-1056

(770) 487-3360

E-mail: [email protected]

Web Site: www.hoshizaki.com

NOTE: To expedite assistance, all correspondence/communication MUST include the

following information:

• Model Number

• Serial Number

• Complete and detailed explanation of the problem.

IMPORTANT

This manual should be read carefully before the icemaker is serviced or

maintenance operations are performed. Only qualified service technicians should

install, service, and maintain the icemaker. Read the warnings contained in this

booklet carefully as they give important information regarding safety. Please

retain this booklet for any further reference that may be necessary.

CONTENTS

I. General Information

A. Construction 5

1. KM1601SRH350 (remote air-cooled)

2. KM1900SAH350 (air-cooled) 6

3. KM2100SRH350 (remote air-cooled)

B. Sequence of Operation 8

1. One Minute Fill Cycle 8

2. Initial Harvest Cycle

3. Freeze Cycle

4. Pump-Out Cycle 8

5. Normal Harvest Cycle 9

6. Sequence Flow Chart 10

C. Control Board 11

1. Control Board Layout 12

2. Features 13

a) Maximum Water Supply Period – 6 minutes 13

b) Harvest Backup Timer and Freeze Timer 13

c) High Temperature Safety 13

d) Low Water Safety 13

e) High Voltage and Low Voltage Cut-outs 13

f) LED lights and Audible Alarm Safeties

3. Controls and Adjustments

a) Default Dip Switch Settings

b) Harvest Timer (S4 dip switch 1 & 2)

c) Pump-Out Timer (S4 dip switch 3 & 4) 16

d) Pump-Out Frequency Control (S4 dip switch 5 & 6)

e) Factory Use (S4 dip switch 7 & 8) 16

f) Freeze Timer (S4 dip switch 9 & 10) 17

4. Control Board Check Procedure

5. Control Board Replacement 18

D. Harvest Control – Thermistor 18

1. Thermistor Check Procedure 18

E. Float Switch

1. Float Switch Check Procedure

2. Float Switch Cleaning 19

F. Bin Control

II. Technical Information 21

A. Water Circuit and Refrigeration Circuit 21

1. KM1601SRH350 (remote air-cooled) 21

2. KM1900SAH350 (air-cooled) 22

3. KM2100SRH350 (remote air-cooled)

B. Wiring Diagrams

1. KM1601SRH350 (remote air-cooled) 24

2. KM1900SAH350 (air-cooled) 25

3. KM2100SRH350 (remote air-cooled) 26

III. Service Diagnosis 27

A. 10-minute KM Diagnostic Procedure 27

B. Diagnostic Charts 29

1. No Ice Production 29

2. Evaporator is Frozen Up 32

3. Low Ice Production 34

4. Abnormal Ice 35

5. Other 36

IV. Removal and Replacement of Components 37

A. Service for Refrigerant Lines 37

1. Refrigerant Recovery 37

2. Brazing____________________________________________ 37

3. Evacuation and Recharge (R-404A)______________________ 38

B. Removal and Replacement of Compressor 39

C. Removal and Replacement of Expansion Valve 40

D. Removal and Replacement of Hot Gas Valve or Line Valve 41

E. Removal and Replacement of Evaporator 42

F. Removal and Replacement of Condenser – Air-Cooled Model 42

G. Removal and Replacement of Condenser – Remote Model 44

H. Removal and Replacement of Headmaster – Remote Model 45

I. Removal and Replacement of Thermistor 46

J. Removal and Replacement of Fan Motor

K. Removal and Replacement of Inlet Water Valve 47

L. Removal and Replacement of Pump Motor

V. Cleaning and Maintenance

A. Cleaning and Sanitizing Instructions 49

1. Cleaning Procedure 49

2. Sanitizing Procedure – Following Cleaning Procedure

B. Maintenance Instructions 52

C. Preparing the Icemaker for Long Storage 52

B. Sequence of Operation

The steps in the sequence are as outlined below. When power is supplied, the red

"POWER OK" LED on the control board comes on. A 5-second delay occurs at startup.

Note that the order of the LEDs from the outer edge of the board is 1, 4, 3, .

1. One Minute Fill Cycle

LED 4 is on. WV opens and the ll period begins. After 1 minute, the control board

checks for a closed F/S. If F/S is closed, the harvest cycle begins. If not, WV will remain

energized through additional 1 minute cycles until water enters the sump and F/S closes.

This serves as a low water safety to protect the PM.

2. Initial Harvest Cycle

LEDs 1, 4, and  are on. WV remains open, Comp, FMR, and HGV opens. The control

board monitors the warming of the evaporator via the thermistor located on the suction

line. When the thermistor reaches 48°F (9°C), the control board reads a 3.9 kΩ signal

from the thermistor and turns harvest termination over to the adjustable harvest timer

(S4 dip switch 1 & ) which is factory set for normal conditions. The harvest timer has

settings of 60, 90, 1

0, and 180 seconds. For details, see "II.C.3.b) Harvest Timer (S4

dip switch 1 & )." When the harvest timer completes its countdown, the harvest cycle

is complete and the freeze cycle starts. The minimum total time allowed by the control

board for a complete harvest cycle is  minutes. WV is energized during harvest for

a maximum of 6 minutes or the length of harvest, whichever is shorter. At the end of

harvest, the control board checks the position of F/S and proceeds to the freeze cycle if

it is closed or calls for a 1-minute ll if it is open.

3. Freeze Cycle

LED 1 is on. Comp and FMR continue to run, PM and FMS energize, and LLV opens,

HGV and WV close and the freeze cycle starts. For the rst 5 minutes the control board

will not accept a signal from F/S. This 5 minute minimum freeze acts as a short cycle

protection. At the end of 5 minutes, F/S assumes control. As ice builds on the evaporator

the water level in the sump lowers. The freeze continues until F/S opens and terminates

ice production.

4. Pump-Out Cycle

LEDs 1, 3, and  are on. Comp and FMR continue to run, HGV opens, LLV closes,

and FMS de-energizes. PM stops for

 seconds. The pump motor then re-starts in the

reverse direction, taking water from the bottom of the sump and forcing pressure against

the check valve seat allowing water to go through the check valve and down the drain.

At the same time, water ows through the small tube to power ush the F/S. When the

pump-out timer (S4 dip switch 3 & 4) stops counting, the pump out is complete. The

1st

pump out occurs after the 1st freeze cycle and every 10th cycle thereafter. The

pump-out frequency control (S4 dip switch 5 & 6) is factory-adjusted to drain the water

tank every 10 cycles, and no adjustment is required. However, where water quality is

bad and the icemaker needs a pump out more often, the pump-out frequency can be

adjusted. The pump-out frequency control (S4 dip switch 5 & 6) can be set to have

a pump out occur every cycle, or every , 5, or 10 cycles, see "II.C.3.d) Pump-Out

Frequency Control (S4 dip switch 5 & 6)."

5. Normal Harvest Cycle

LEDs 1, 4, and  are on. Comp and FMR remain energized. FMS de-energizes and

the HGV and WV open. As the evaporator warms, the thermistor reaches 48°F (9°C).

The control board then receives the thermistor's 3.9 kΩ signal and starts the harvest

timer. When the harvest timer completes its countdown, the harvest cycle is complete.

The minimum total time allowed by the control board for a complete harvest cycle is 

minutes. WV is open during harvest for a maximum of 6 minutes or the length of harvest,

whichever is shorter. At the end of harvest, the control board checks the position of the

F/S and proceeds to the freeze cycle if it is closed or calls for a 1-minute ll if it is open.

The unit continues to cycle through this sequence until the bin control senses ice and

shuts the unit down.

Legend: Comp–compressor; FMR–remote fan motors; FMS–self-contained fan motors;

F/S–oat switch; HGV–hot gas valve; LLV–liquid line valve; PM–pump motor;

WV–inlet water valve

4. Pump-Out

Cycle

1. One-Minute

Fill Cycle

2. Harvest Cycle 3. Freeze Cycle

Cycle Steps

WV energized

F/S open

F/S closed

Comp energized

HGV energized

FMR energized

WV continues

LLV de-energized

Thermistor temp

reaches 48°F (9°C)

(3.9 kΩ or less)

Harvest timer starts

F/S open

Comp continues

FMR continues

HGV de-energized

WV de-energized

PM energized

FMS energized

LLV energized

F/S closed

Freeze cycle

operation turned

over to F/S

PM stops for  sec.,

then reverses for 10/0 sec.

each 1,

, 5, or 10 cycles.

Comp continues

FMR continues

HGV energized

FMS de-energized

LLV de-energized

F/S check

• Maximum inlet water valve time: 6 minutes

• Maximum harvest time: 0 minutes

Thermistor in

control

1 to 3 minute timer

in control

• Minimum freeze time: 5 minutes

• Maximum freeze time: freeze timer setting

5 minute timer

in control

F/S in

control

Initial startup always

begins here

If F/S is open, compressor stops and cycle returns to 1-minute ll

Sequence Flow Chart and Component Operation

Components Energized when the Control Switch is in the "WASH" Position

The "WASH" position on the control switch is used when cleaning and sanitizing the unit. When in the

"WASH" position, power is supplied to the pump motor. With the cleaning valve closed, the cleaner and

sanitizer ow over the outside of the evaporator plate assembly. With the cleaning valve open, the cleaner

and sanitizer ow over both the outside and the inside of the evaporator plate assembly.

Note: Close the cleaning valve after cleaning and sanitizing are complete, otherwise the unit will not re-start

when the control switch is placed in the "ICE" position.

Legend:

Comp-compressor

FMR-remote fan motors

FMS-self-contained fan motors

F/S-oat switch

HGV-hot gas valve

LLV-liquid line valve

PM-pump motor

WV-inlet water valve

6. Sequence Flow Chart

C. Control Board

• A Hoshizaki exclusive solid-state control is employed in Stackable Crescent Cubers.

• All models are pretested and factory-adjusted.

CAUTION

1. Fragile, handle very carefully.

. The control board contains integrated circuits, which are susceptible to

failure due to static discharge. It is especially important to touch the metal

part of the unit before handling or replacing the board.

3. Do not touch the electronic devices on the board or the back of the board to

prevent damage to the board.

4. Do not change wiring and connections. Do not misconnect K3, K4, and K5,

because the same connector is used for the thermistor and oat switch. K4

is not connected.

5. Always replace the whole board assembly if it goes bad.

6. Do not short out power supply to test for voltage.

1. Control Board Layout

Control Products "E" Control Board

Control Board

Part Number 2A1410-01 (factory); 2A1410-02 (service)

Type HOS-001A (Control Products - 10 Pin)

"OUTPUT TEST" Button

(used to test relays on board)

Connector K3

Harvest Control

(thermistor)

Connector K4

Open

(not connected)

Microprocessor

(board revision level

indicated by last 

digits on label)

Connector K5

Float Switch

Part Number

Connector K1

Pins #1 through #10

#1, 9 Magnetic Contactor

# Hot Gas Valve

#3 Liquid Line Valve

Self-Contained Fan Motors

(FMS)

#4 Pump Motor (icemaking)

#5 Pump Motor (pump out)

#6 Inlet Water Valve

#7, 10 Power Supply

#8 Open

Switch for "C" board

and "ALPINE" board

(service boards only)

"ALARM RESET" Button

Backup Freeze

Timer LED

S4 Dip Switch

Backup Harvest

Timer LED

Alarm Buzzer

Power LED

(lights when

power is supplied

to the board)

Relay LEDs (4)

(indicate which

relays are energized

as listed below)

LED 

Hot Gas Valve

(HGV)

Self-Contained Fan

Motors (FMS) (FMS

off when LED on)

LED 3

Pump Motor (PM)

(on at pump out only)

LED 4

Inlet Water

Valve (WV)

LED 1

Compressor (Comp)

Remote Fan Motors

(FMR)

Transformer

Connector

2. Features

a) Maximum Water Supply Period - 6 minutes

The inlet water valve will be open during harvest for 6 minutes or the length of harvest

whichever is shorter.

b) Harvest Backup Timer and Freeze Timer

The harvest backup timer shuts down the icemaker if, for two cycles in a row, the harvest

cycle takes more than 0 minutes to complete. The control board will signal this problem

using

 beeps every 3 seconds.

The freeze timer shuts down the icemaker if, for two cycles in a row, the freeze cycle

takes longer than the time specied to complete. The control board will signal this

problem using 3 beeps every 3 seconds. The time is factory set using S4 dip switch

9 & 10.

The "ALARM RESET" button on the control board must be pressed with power on to

reset either of these safeties.

c) High Temperature Safety

The temperature of the suction line in the refrigeration circuit is limited by the high

temperature safety. This protects the unit from excessively high temperatures. If the

evaporator temperature rises above 17±7°F (53±4°C), the control board reads a

.804

kΩ signal from the thermistor and operates the safety. This shuts down the circuit

and the icemaker automatically stops.

The control board will signal this problem using 1 beep every 3 seconds. The "ALARM

RESET" button on the control board must be pressed with power on to reset the safety.

d) Low Water Safety

The control board checks the position of the oat switch at the end of the initial one

minute water ll cycle and at the end of each harvest cycle. If the oat switch is in the up

position (electrical circuit closed), the control board changes to the ice making cycle. If

the oat switch is in the down position (electrical circuit open), the control board changes

to additional one minute water ll cycles until water enters the sump and the oat switch

closes. When the oat switch closes, the control board changes to the ice making cycle.

The unit will not start without adequate water in the sump. This serves as a low water

safety to protect the water pump.

For water-cooled model, if the water is shut off, the unit is protected by the high pressure

switch.

e) High Voltage and Low Voltage Cut-outs

The maximum and minimum allowable supply voltages of this icemaker are limited by

the high voltage and low voltage cut-outs.

If miswiring (especially on single phase 3 wire models) causes excessive voltage

(147Vac±5% or more) on the control board, the high voltage cut-out shuts down the

circuit in 3 seconds and the icemaker automatically stops. The control board will signal

this problem using 7 beeps every 3 seconds.

The icemaker also automatically stops in cases of insufcient voltage (9Vac±5% or

less). The control board will signal this problem using 6 beeps every 3 seconds.

When the proper supply voltage is resumed, the icemaker automatically starts running

again.

f) LED Lights and Audible Alarm Safeties

The red LED indicates proper control voltage and will remain on unless a control voltage

problem occurs. At startup, a 5 second delay occurs while the board conducts an internal

timer check. A beep occurs when the control switch is moved to the "OFF" position.

The green LEDs 1 through 4 energize and sequence from initial startup as listed in the

table below. Note that the order of the LEDs from the outer edge of the board is 1, 4, 3,

. For more information, see "II.B. Sequence of Operation."

Sequence Step LED

Energized

Components

Time LEDs are On

Min. Max. Avg.

1 Minute Fill Cycle 4 WV 60 seconds

Harvest Cycle 1, 4, and  WV, HGV,

Comp, FMR

 minutes 0 minutes

3 to 5 minutes

Freeze Cycle 1 Comp, PM,

FMR/FMS,

LLV

5 minutes freeze timer

setting

30 to 35 minutes

Pump-Out Cycle 1, 4*, 3, and



Comp, FMR,

WV*, HGV,

10 seconds 0 seconds *pump-out timer

setting

The built in safeties shut down the unit and have alarms as listed below.

No. of Beeps

(every 3 sec.)

Type of Alarm Notes

1 High Evaporator Temp.

(temperature > 17°F)

(53°C)

Check for harvest problem (stuck HGV or

relay), hot water entering unit, stuck HM, or

shorted thermistor.

 Harvest Backup Timer

(harvest > 0 min. for two

cycles in a row)

Orange LED marked "H TIMER" lights up.

Check for open thermistor, HGV not opening,

TXV leaking by, low charge, inefcient Comp,

or WRV leaking by.

3 Freeze Timer

(freeze > specied setting

for two cycles in a row)

Timer is factory set using

S4 dip switch 9 & 10

Yellow LED marked "F TIMER" lights up.

Check for F/S stuck closed (up), WV leaking

by, HGV leaking by, PM not pumping, TXV

not feeding properly, low charge, HM not

bypassing, or inefcient Comp.

To reset the above safeties, press the "ALARM RESET" button with the power supply on.

6 Low Voltage

(9Vac±5% or less)

Red LED will turn off if voltage protection

operates.

The control voltage safeties automatically reset

when voltage is corrected.

7 High Voltage

(147Vac±5% or more)

Legend: Comp–compressor; FMR–remote fan motors; FMS–self-contained fan motors;

F/S–oat switch; HGV–hot gas valve; HM–headmaster (C.P.R.); LLV–liquid

line valve; PM–pump motor; TXV–thermostatic expansion valve; WV–inlet

water valve

3. Controls and Adjustments

CAUTION

Dip switches are factory set. Failure to maintain factory settings may adversely

affect performance and warranty coverage. For more information, contact

Hoshizaki Technical Support at 1-800-33-1940.

a) Default Dip Switch Settings

The dip switches are factory-adjusted to the following positions:

Model

S4 Dip Switch

1  3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

KM1601SRH350 ON

OFF OFF OFF ON ON OFF OFF OFF OFF

KM1900SAH350

OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF ON OFF

KM2100SRH350

ON OFF ON ON OFF OFF OFF OFF ON OFF

Freeze Timer (9 & 10)

Pump-Out Frequency

Control (5 & 6)

Pump-Out Timer (3 & 4)

Harvest Timer (1 & )

S4 Dip Switch

Normally off (7 & 8)

b) Harvest Timer (S4 dip switch 1 & 2)

The harvest timer starts counting when the thermistor reads 48°F (9°C) at the evaporator

outlet. No adjustment is required under normal use, as the harvest timer is adjusted to

the suitable setting. However, a setting longer than the factory setting may be advised

in cases where the ush provided at harvest needs to be prolonged for extra cleaning.

Before changing this setting, contact Hoshizaki Technical Support at 1-800-33-1940

for recommendations. Keep in mind that setting the harvest timer to a longer setting will

decrease 4 hour production.

S4 Dip Switch Setting Time

(seconds)

No. 1 No. 

OFF OFF 60

ON OFF 90

OFF ON 10

ON ON 180

c) Pump-Out Timer (S4 dip switch 3 & 4)

When a freeze cycle is completed, the pump motor stops, and the icemaker resumes

operation in  seconds. Then, during cycles when a pump out is called for, the pump

motor drains the water tank for the time determined by the pump-out timer. The

pump-out timer also acts in place of the harvest timer during cycles with a pump out. The

pump-out timer is factory-adjusted, and no adjustment is required.

S4 Dip Switch Setting Time (seconds)

Inlet

Water

Valve

No. 3 No. 4

T

OFF OFF 10 150 closed

ON OFF 10 180 closed

OFF ON 10 10 open

ON ON 0 180 closed

T1: Time to drain the water tank

T: Harvest timer at pump out

Pump out always occurs on the nd harvest after startup. Then, depending on the

pump-out frequency control setting (S4 dip switch 5 & 6), pump out occurs every cycle,

or every

nd, 5th, or 10th cycle.

d) Pump-Out Frequency Control (S4 dip switch 5 & 6)

The pump motor drains the water tank at the frequency set by the pump-out frequency

control. The pump-out frequency control is factory-adjusted to drain the water tank every

10 cycles, and no adjustment is required. However, where water quality is bad and the

icemaker needs a pump out more often, the pump-out frequency can be adjusted as

shown in the table below:

S4 Dip Switch Setting

Frequency

No. 5 No. 6

OFF OFF every cycle

ON OFF every  cycles

OFF ON every 5 cycles

ON ON every 10 cycles

e) Factory Use (S4 dip switch 7 & 8)

Factory set for optimum performance. Do not adjust.

f) Freeze Timer (S4 dip switch 9 & 10)

CAUTION

Adjust to proper specication, or the unit may not operate correctly.

The freeze timer setting determines the maximum allowed freeze time to prevent

possible freeze-up issues. Upon termination of the freeze timer, the control board

initiates the harvest cycle. After  consecutive freeze timer terminations, the control

board shuts the icemaker down. In this case, see "IV.B.3. Low Ice Production" for

possible solutions. The freeze timer is factory adjusted and no adjustment is required.

S4 Dip Switch Setting

Time

(minutes)

No. 9 No. 10

OFF OFF 60

OFF ON 50

ON OFF 70

ON ON 60

4. Control Board Check Procedure

Before replacing a control board that does not show a visible defect and that you suspect

is bad, always conduct the following check procedure. This procedure will help you verify

your diagnosis.

1) Check the S4 dip switch settings to assure that 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, & 10 are in the factory

default position. S4 dip switches 1, , 5, & 6 are cleaning adjustments and the settings

are exible. For factory defaults, see "II.C.3.a) Default Dip Switch Settings." On control

boards with a "C" "ALP" switch, the switch should be in the "ALP" position.

) Move the control switch to the "ICE" position. The red "POWER OK" LED should be on.

If the LED is on, proceed to step 3. Otherwise, see a and b below.

a. "POWER OK" LED: If the red "POWER OK" LED is off, check the control

transformer secondary circuit. The transformer secondary circuit includes the

cleaning valve interlock switch. Make sure the interlock switch is closed; otherwise,

no control voltage is supplied to the K connector. Transformer output is 10.5V at

115V primary input. If the secondary circuit has proper voltage and the red LED is

off, the control board is bad and should be replaced.

b. Transformer Circuit: If the secondary circuit does not have proper voltage, check

the control transformer primary circuit. Check for 115V at the 10-pin connector.

Check the brown wire at pin #10 to a white neutral wire for 115V. (Always choose a

white neutral wire to establish a good neutral connection when checking voltages.)

For additional checks, see "IV.B.1.[1] The icemaker will not start."

3) The "OUTPUT TEST" button provides a relay sequence test. Make sure the control

switch is in the "ICE" position, then press the "OUTPUT TEST" button. The correct

lighting sequence should be none, , 3, 4, 1. Some components (e.g., the compressor)

will cycle during the test. Note that the order of the relays from the outer edge of the

board is 1, 4, 3, . After checking the sequence, the unit automatically starts at the

minute ll cycle. If the LEDs light in a different sequence, the control board is bad and

should be replaced.

5. Control Board Replacement

Before replacing a control board that does not show a visible defect and that you suspect

is bad, see "II.C.4. Control Board Check Procedure." Before installing the new control

board, adjust the S4 dip switches to the factory default settings. See "II.C.3.a) Default

Dip Switch Settings." S4 dip switch 8 must remain off. The "C" "ALP" switch should be in

the "ALP" position.

D. Harvest Control – Thermistor

A thermistor is used as a harvest control sensor. The thermistor's resistance varies

depending on suction line temperature. The control board monitors the resistance to

start the harvest timer. No adjustment is required.

1. Thermistor Check Procedure

If necessary, check the resistance between thermistor leads, and visually check the

thermistor mounting, located on the suction line next to the evaporator outlet. To check

the resistance between thermistor leads, follow the steps below.

1) Disconnect the thermistor connector from the K3 connector on the control board.

) Remove the thermistor. See "V.L. Removal and Replacement of Thermistor."

3) Immerse the thermistor sensor portion in a glass containing ice and water for  or

3 minutes.

4) Check the resistance between thermistor leads. Normal reading is within 4.7 to 6. k

Ω.

Replace the thermistor if it is outside the normal reading.

E. Float Switch

The oat switch is used to determine that there is sufcient water in the tank after the

1 minute ll cycle and after each harvest cycle. The oat switch is also used to determine

that the appropriate volume of water has been converted into ice before switching out of

the freeze cycle. No adjustment is required.

1. Float Switch Check Procedure

To check the oat switch, follow the steps below.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the front panel and move the control switch to the "OFF" position.

3) Remove the insulation panel, then remove the cap located on the front bottom part of

the ice dropping hole. Drain the water tank.

4) Replace the cap in its correct position. Be careful not to cross thread it.

5) Remove the control box cover.

6) Disconnect the black oat switch connector from the K5 connector on the control board.

7) Check for continuity across the oat switch leads. With the water tank empty, the oat

switch should be open. If open, continue to step 8. If closed, follow the steps in "II.

E.. Float Switch Cleaning." After cleaning the oat switch, check it again. Replace if

necessary.

8) Reconnect the black oat switch connector, then replace the control box cover in its

correct position.

9) Move the control switch to the "ICE" position. Replace the insulation panel and the

front panel in their correct positions, then turn the power supply on. After 1 minute,

the 1 minute ll cycle should end and the initial harvest cycle should begin. If the initial

harvest cycle begins, the oat switch is good and the check is complete. If the initial

harvest cycle does not begin, continue to step 10.

10) Turn off the power supply.

11) Remove the front panel.

1) Move the control switch to the "OFF" position.

13) Remove the control box cover.

14) Disconnect the black oat switch connector from the K5 connector on the control board.

15) Check for continuity across the oat switch leads. With the water tank full, the oat

switch should be closed. If the oat switch is closed and the icemaker will not switch

from the 1 minute ll cycle to the initial harvest cycle, replace the control board.

If open, conrm that the water tank is full. If the tank is not full, check the water supply,

water lters, and inlet water valve. If the tank is full, follow the steps in "II.E.. Float

Switch Cleaning." After cleaning the oat switch, check it again. Replace if necessary.

2. Float Switch Cleaning

Depending on local water conditions, scale may build up on the oat switch. Scale on the

switch can cause the oat to stick. In this case, the oat switch should be cleaned.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the front panel and move the control switch to the "OFF" position.

3) Remove the insulation panel, then remove the cap located on the front bottom part of

the ice dropping hole. Drain the water tank.

4) Replace the cap in its correct position. Be careful not to cross thread it.

5) Disconnect the vent tube and the ush tube from the top of the oat switch, then

remove the oat switch assembly from the mounting bracket and remove the rubber

boot from the bottom of the assembly.

6) Remove the retainer rod from the bottom of the oat switch assembly, then remove the

oat. Be careful not to bend the retainer rod excessively when removing it.

7) Wipe down the oat switch assembly's housing, shaft, oat, and retainer rod and clean

the inside of the rubber boot and hose with a mixture of 1 part of recommended cleaner

Hoshizaki "Scale Away" or "LIME-A-WAY" (Economics Laboratory, Inc.) and 5 parts of

warm water. Rinse the parts thoroughly with clean water.

8) Reassemble the oat switch. Replace the rubber boot and oat switch in their correct

positions. Reconnect the vent tube and the ush tube.

9) Move the control switch to the "ICE" position.

10) Replace the insulation panel and front panel in their correct positions.

11) Turn on the power supply to start the automatic icemaking process.

F. Bin Control

CAUTION

When the ambient temperature is below 45°F (7°C), the bin control thermostat

operates to stop the icemaker even if the ice storage bin is empty. When the

thermostat is set in the prohibited range, the icemaker operates continuously

even if the ice storage bin is lled with ice. Setting in the prohibited range might

cause severe damage to the icemaker resulting in failure.

No adjustment is required under normal use, as the bin control is factory-adjusted.

Adjust it, if necessary, so that the icemaker stops automatically within 10 seconds after

ice contacts the bin control thermostat bulb. Adjustment may be needed, particularly at

higher altitude locations.

III. Service Diagnosis

A. 10-Minute KM Diagnostic Procedure

The 10 minute check out procedure is basically a sequence check which can be used

at unit start-up or for system diagnosis. Using this check out procedure will allow you

to diagnose electrical system and component failures in approximately 10 minutes

under normal operating conditions of 70°F (

1°C) or warmer air and 50°F (10°C) or

warmer water temperatures. Before conducting a 10 minute checkout, check for correct

installation, proper voltage per unit nameplate, and adequate water supply. Check the

S4 dip switch settings to assure that they are in the factory default position. Switches

, 5, & 6 are cleaning adjustments and the settings are exible. For factory default

settings, see "II.C.3.a) Default Dip Switch Settings." As you go through the procedure,

check to assure the components energize and de-energize correctly. If not, those

components and controls are suspect. Check for voltage at the control board K1 10-pin

connector.

1) Turn off the power supply and access the control box.

) Turn on the power supply and move the control switch to the "ICE" position. A 5-second

delay occurs. The red "POWER OK" LED comes on.

3) One Minute Fill Cycle – LED 4 is on. The inlet water valve is energized. After

1 minute, the control board checks the oat switch. If the oat switch is closed, the

unit cycles to harvest. If closed, continue to step 4. If the oat switch is open, the unit

repeats the 1 minute ll cycle until water enters and the oat switch closes (low water

safety protection during initial start up and at the end of each harvest). Diagnosis: If

the inlet water valve does not open, check for no supply voltage at the inlet water valve

terminals, bad coil, or plugged screen or external lter (no water ow). If unit fails to

start harvest, check for open oat switch (see "II.E. Float Switch") or bad 1 minute timer

in control board.

4) Initial Harvest Cycle – LEDs 1, 4, and 2 are on. The inlet water valve remains

energized, the contactor coil energizes to start the compressor (and the fan motors on

remote air-cooled models), and the hot gas valve energizes. The inlet water valve is

open during harvest for a maximum of 6 minutes or the length of harvest, whichever

is shorter. The evaporator warms and the thermistor senses 48°F (9°C). The control

board then receives the thermistor's 3.9 kΩ signal and turns operation of harvest over

to the harvest timer (S4 dip switch 1 & ). The timer has settings of 60, 90, 10, and

180 seconds (S4 dip switch 1 &

). When the harvest timer countdown is complete

(1 to 3 minutes), the freeze cycle starts.

Diagnosis: Check if compressor is running,

hot gas valve is open, inlet water valve still open. Average harvest cycle at factory

setting is  to 3 minutes. How long does initial harvest last? 1.5 minutes after initial

harvest begins, touch the compressor discharge line. Is it hot? If not, check refrigerant

pressures and compressor operation. If it is hot, touch the inlet line to the evaporator.

Is it hot? If it is hot and the freeze cycle is not starting, check the harvest timer

adjustment, the thermistor for open circuit (see "II.D.1. Thermistor Check Procedure"),

the discharge line temperature, compressor efciency, and if the hot gas valve is fully

open.

5) Freeze Cycle – LED 1 is on. Compressor (and fan motors on remote air-cooled

models) remains energized, pump motor, liquid line valve, (and self-contained fan

motors on air-cooled models) energize. The inlet water valve and hot gas valve de-

energize. The unit is held in freeze by a 5 minute short cycle protection timer. After

the 5 minute short cycle protection timer terminates, the freeze cycle operation is

transferred to the oat switch for freeze termination. During the rst 5

minutes of freeze,

conrm that the evaporator temperature drops. After 5 minutes in freeze, remove the

black oat switch lead from the K5 connector. The unit should switch out of the freeze

cycle. Diagnosis: If the evaporator is not cold, check to see if the hot gas valve is

still open or if the expansion valve is not opening properly, if the inlet water valve is

continuing to ll the reservoir, if there are improper unit pressures, an inoperative

compressor, or an inoperative headmaster (C.P.R.) (remote condenser unit). If the unit

remains in freeze with the oat switch removed, replace the board.

Note: Normal freeze cycle will last 0 to 40 minutes depending on model and

conditions. Cycle times and pressures should follow performance data provided

in this manual.

6) Pump-Out Cycle – LEDs 1, 4, 3, 2 are on. The 1st pump out occurs after the

1st freeze cycle and every 10th cycle thereafter (S4 dip switch 5 & 6). The pump out

cycle can be adjusted to occur every cycle, or every

, 5, or 10 cycles (S4 dip switch

5 and 6).

The compressor remains energized, the hot gas valve energizes, the fan motors

de-energize (air-cooled models). The pump motor stops for  seconds. The pump

motor then re-starts in the reverse direction, taking water from the bottom of the sump

and forcing pressure against the check valve seat allowing water to go through the

check valve and down the drain. At the same time, water ows through the small tube

to power ush the oat switch. Diagnosis: If the pump motor does not run, check the

circuit and pump capacitor. If the pump motor does not reverse and water does not

pump out, check S4 dip switches 3 and 4, check for clear tubing at the check valve

housing, and check the unit drain for water ow. Remove the pump out check valve

housing and check/clean the valve assembly.

7) Normal Harvest Cycle – same as the initial harvest cycle – Return to step 4.

Note: Unit continues to cycle until bin control is satised or power is switched off. The

unit always restarts at the 1 minute ll cycle.

B. Diagnostic Charts

1. No Ice Production

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1] The icemaker will not

start.

a) Power Supply 1. Off, blown fuse, or

tripped breaker.

1. Turn on, replace, or

reset.

.

Loose connection. . Tighten.

3. Bad contacts. 3. Check for continuity

and replace.

4. Not within

specications.

4. Refer to nameplate and

correct.

b) Transformer (115V

primary) (3 phase only)

1. Voltage tap switch

does not match

incoming voltage.

1. Verify incoming

voltage, move switch to

proper setting.

.

Coil winding open or

shorted.

. Replace.

c) Transformer 1. Coil winding open or

shorted.

1. Replace.

d) Water Supply 1. Water supply off or

pressure too low.

1. Check and get

recommended

pressure.

e) Bin Control Thermostat 1. Tripped with bin lled

with ice.

1. Remove ice.

.

Ambient temperature

too cool.

. Increase ambient

temperature.

3. Set too warm. 3. See "II.F. Bin Control."

4. Bulb out of position. 4. Place in position.

5. Bad contacts. 5. Check for continuity

and replace.

f) Fuse (Control Box) 1. Blown. 1. Check for short circuit

and replace.

g) Control Switch 1. "OFF" or "WASH"

position.

1. Move to "ICE" position.

.

Bad contacts. . Check for continuity

and replace.

h) High Pressure Control 1. Bad contacts. 1. Check for continuity

and replace.

.

Dirty air lter or

condenser.

. Clean.

3. Ambient or condenser

water temperature too

warm.

3. Reduce temperature.

4. Refrigerant

overcharged.

4. Recover, evacuate, and

recharge.

5. Fan not operating

(except water-cooled

models).

5. See chart 1.[7].

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1] The icemaker will not

start. (continued)

h) High Pressure Control

(continued)

6. Refrigerant line or

components plugged.

6. Clean and replace

drier.

7. Condenser water

pressure too low or

off (water-cooled

models).

7. Check and get

recommended

pressure.

i) Wiring to Control Board 1. Loose connections or

open.

1. Check for continuity

and replace.

j) Interlock Switch

(Cleaning Valve)

1. Open position. 1. Move to closed

position.

.

Bad contacts. . Check for continuity

and replace.

k) Thermistor 1. Leads shorted or open

and high temperature

or harvest backup

timer safety operates

(1 beep or  beep

alarm).

1. See "II.D. Harvest

Control - Thermistor."

l) Hot Gas Valve 1. Continues to open

in freeze cycle and

freeze timer safety

operates (3 beep

alarm).

1. Check for hot gas

valve stuck open and

replace.

m)Inlet Water Valve 1. Mesh lter or orice

gets clogged and

water supply cycle

does not nish.

1. Clean.

.

Coil winding open. . Replace.

3. Wiring to inlet water

valve.

3. Check for loose

connection or open,

and replace.

n) Float Switch 1. Bad contacts. 1. Check for continuity

and replace.

.

Float does not move

freely.

. Clean or replace. See

"II.E. Float Switch."

o) Control Board 1. Defective or in alarm. 1. See "II.C.4. Control

Board Check

Procedure."

[]

Fill cycle will not

terminate.

a) Water Supply 1. Water supply off or

pressure too low.

1. Check and get

recommended

pressure.

b) Float Switch 1. Connector

disconnected.

1. Reconnect.

.

Defective switch. . Check and replace.

See "II.E. Float Switch."

3. Float does not move

freely.

3. Clean or replace. See

"II.E. Float Switch."

c) Control Board 1. Defective. 1. See "II.C.4. Control

Board Check

Procedure."

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[3] Compressor will

not start or stops

operating.

a) Magnetic Contactor 1. Bad contacts. 1. Check for continuity

and replace.

.

Coil winding open. . Replace.

b) Start Capacitor or Run

Capacitor

1. Defective. 1. Replace.

c) Internal Overload

Protector Open (check

1 through 3 to the right

and d through f below)

1. Loose terminal. 1. Tighten or replace.

.

Voltage. . Check and correct.

3. Dirty condenser. 3. Clean.

d) Starter 1. Bad contacts. 1. Check and replace.

.

Coil winding open. . Replace.

e) Compressor 1. Power supply not

within specications.

1. Refer to nameplate and

correct.

.

Wiring to compressor. . Check for loose

connection or open,

and replace.

3. Defective. 3. Replace.

4. Protector tripped. 4. Reduce temperature.

f) Control Board 1. No power to contactor. 1. See "II.C.4. Control

Board Check

Procedure."

[4] Water continues to

be supplied in freeze

cycle.

a) Water Pressure 1. Too high. 1. Reduce.

b) Inlet Water Valve 1. Diaphragm does not

close.

1. Check for water leaks

with icemaker off.

c) Control Board 1. Defective. 1. See "II.C.4. Control

Board Check

Procedure."

[5] Water pump will not

start.

a) Pump Motor 1. Motor winding open. 1. Replace.

.

Bearing worn out. . Replace.

3. Wiring to pump motor. 3. Check for loose

connection or open,

and replace.

4. Defective capacitor. 4. Replace.

5. Defective or bound

impeller.

5. Replace and clean.

6. Mechanical seal worn

out.

6. Check and replace.

b) Control Board 1. Defective. 1. See "II.C.4. Control

Board Check

Procedure."

c) Control Switch 1. Bad contacts. 1. Replace.

[6] Freeze cycle time is

too short.

a) Pump Out Check Valve 1. Leaking by. 1. Clean or replace.

b) Float Switch 1. Dirty or erratic

operation.

1. Clean or replace. See

"II.E. Float Switch."

c) Control Board 1. Defective. 1. See "II.C.4. Control

Board Check

Procedure."

d) Water System 1. Water leaks. 1. Check connections

for water leaks, and

replace.

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[7] Fan motor will

not start, or is not

operating (except

water-cooled model).

a) Fan Motor 1. Motor winding open. 1. Replace.

.

Bearing worn out. . Replace.

3. Wiring to fan motor. 3. Check for loose

connection or open,

and replace.

4. Defective capacitor. 4. Replace.

5. Fan blade bound. 5. Check and replace.

b) Control Board 1. Defective. 1. See "II.C.4. Control

Board Check

Procedure."

[8] All components

run, but no ice is

produced.

a) Refrigerant 1. Low charge. 1. Check for leaks.

Recover, repair,

evacuate, and

recharge.

.

Air or moisture

trapped.

.

Replace drier,

evacuate, and

recharge.

b) Compressor 1. Defective. 1. Replace.

c) Hot Gas Valve 1. Continues to open in

freeze cycle.

1. Check and replace.

d) Liquid Line Valve

(if applicable)

1. Continues to close in

freeze cycle.

1. Check and replace.

e) Inlet Water Valve 1. Inlet water valve is

wide open during

freeze.

1. Check for water leaks

with icemaker off.

f) Expansion Valve 1. Bulb loose. 1. Secure bulb.

.

Operating erratically. . Check and replace.

g) Headmaster (C.P.R.)

(remote condenser

unit)

1. Not operating properly

and liquid line

temperature too warm.

1. Replace headmaster.

h) Water Supply Line

(water-cooled models)

1. Condenser water

pressure too low or

off and high pressure

control opens and

closes frequently.

1. Check and get

recommended

pressure.

i) Water Regulating Valve

(water-cooled models)

1. Set too high. 1. Adjust or replace.

See "V.J. Adjustment

of Water Regulating

Valve."

2. Evaporator is Frozen Up

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1]Freeze cycle time is

too long.

a) Inlet Water Valve 1. Diaphragm does not

close.

1. Check for water leaks with

icemaker off.

b) Float Switch 1. Float does not move

freely.

1. Clean or replace. See "II.

E. Float Switch."

.

Defective switch. . Check and replace. See

"II.E. Float Switch."

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1]Freeze cycle time is

too long. (continued)

c) Evaporator 1. Scaled up. 1. Clean.

. Damaged. . Replace.

d) Spray Tubes 1. Dirty. 1. Clean.

. Out of positon. . Place in position.

e) Water Pump 1. RPM too slow. 1. See chart 1. [5].

f) Thermistor 1. Loose or

disconnected.

1. Reattach or connect. See

"II.D. Harvest Control -

Thermistor."

g) Refrigerant Charge 1. Low charge. 1. Check for leaks. Recover,

repair, evacuate, and

recharge.

h) Expansion Valve 1. Bulb loose. 1. Secure bulb.

.

Operating erratically. . Check and replace.

i) Control Board 1. Defective. 1. See "II.C.4. Control Board

Check Procedure."

[]

All ice formed on

evaporator does not

fall into bin in harvest

cycle.

a) Evaporator 1. Scaled up. 1. Clean.

.

Damaged. . Replace.

b) Ambient and/or Water

Temperature

1. Too cool. 1. Increase temperature.

c) Water Supply Line 1. Water pressure too

low.

1. Check and get

recommended pressure.

d) Water System 1. Water supply line too

small; requires 1/"

OD line dedicated per

machine.

1. Increase water line size.

.

Water lter clogged or

ow rate too small.

. Replace lter or install a

higher ow rate lter.

e) Inlet Water Valve 1. Dirty mesh lter or

orice.

1. Clean.

.

Diaphragm does not

close.

. Check for water leaks with

icemaker off.

f) Spray Tubes 1. Dirty. 1. Clean.

.

Out of position. . Place in position.

g) Thermistor 1. Loose or

disconnected.

1. Reattach or connect. See

"II.D. Harvest Control -

Thermistor."

h) Hot Gas Valve 1. Coil winding open. 1. Replace.

. Plunger does not

move.

. Replace.

3. Wiring to hot gas

valve.

3. Check for loose

connection or open, and

replace.

i) Expansion Valve 1. Open. 1. Check and replace.

j) Liquid Line Valve

(if applicable)

1. Continues to open in

harvest cycle.

1. Check operation in harvest

cycle and replace.

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[]

All ice formed on

evaporator does not

fall into bin in harvest

cycle. (continued)

k) Control Board 1. Harvest timer is set

too short.

1. Adjust longer, referring

to "II.C.3. Controls and

Adjustments, b) Harvest

Timer."

. Defective. . See "II.C.4. Control Board

Check Procedure."

l) Refrigerant Charge 1. Low Charge 1. Check for leaks. Recover,

repair, evacuate, and

recharge.

m)Water Regulating Valve

(water-cooled models)

1. Leaking by in harvest. 1. Check and replace.

[3]Other. a) Ice Cube Guide 1. Out of position. 1. Place in position.

b) Bin Control Thermostat 1. Bulb out of position. 1. Place in position.

.

Bad contacts. . Check for continuity and

replace.

3. Low Ice Production

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1] Freeze cycle time is

long.

a) Inlet Water Valve 1. Diaphragm does not

close.

1. Check for water leaks with

icemaker off.

b) Float Switch 1. Float switch does not

move freely.

1. Clean or replace. See "II.

E. Float Switch."

. Defective switch. . Check and replace. See

"II.E. Float Switch."

c) Evaporator 1. Scaled up. 1. Clean.

. Damaged. . Replace.

d) Spray Tubes 1. Dirty. 1. Clean.

.

Out of position. . Place in position.

e) Water Pump 1. RPM too slow. 1. Check and replace.

f) Condenser (except

water-cooled models)

1. Air lter or condenser

clogged.

1. Clean.

g) Refrigerant Charge 1. Low charge. 1. Check for leaks. Recover,

repair, evacuate, and

recharge.

h) Hot Gas Valve 1. Open. 1. Check and replace.

i) Expansion Valve 1. Bulb loose. 1. Secure bulb.

.

Operating erratically. . Check and replace.

j) Compressor 1. Erratic or off. 1. See chart 1. [3].

k) Condenser Water

(water-cooled models)

1. Water regulating valve

set too high.

1. Adjust or replace. See

"V.J. Adjustment of Water

Regulating Valve."

.

Condenser water

pressure too low.

. Check and get

recommended pressure.

3. Water temperature out

of specication.

3. Correct to specication.

l) Liquid Line Valve 1. Erratic, sticking. 1. Check and replace.

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1] Freeze cycle time is

long. (continued)

m)Headmaster (C.P.R.)

(remote condenser

unit)

1. Bypassing. 1. Replace.

n) Control Board 1. Float switch

connection loose (K5).

1. Check and reconnect.

.

Defective. . Replace. See "II.C.4.

Control Board Check

Procedure."

[]

Harvest cycle time is

long.

a) Water Supply 1. Water temperature too

cold.

1. Increase temperature.

b) Thermistor 1. Out of position or

defective.

1. Reattatch and secure.

See "II.D. Harvest Control

- Thermistor."

c) Control Board 1. Not reading

thermistor.

1. Check and replace.

.

Sending voltage to

liquid line valve (if

applicable) in harvest.

.

Check and replace. See

"II.C.4. Control Board

Check Procedure."

d) Inlet Water Valve 1. Clogged. 1. Clean or replace.

e) Evaporator 1. Scaled up. 1. Clean.

f) Hot Gas Valve 1. Does not open, or

opens partially.

1. Check and replace.

g) Expansion Valve 1. Wide open in harvest. 1. Check and replace.

h) Water Regulating Valve

(water-cooled models)

1. Open during harvest. 1. Adjust or replace. See

"V.J. Adjustment of Water

Regulating Valve ."

i) Liquid Line Valve (if

applicable)

1. Open during harvest

cycle.

1. Check and replace.

4. Abnormal Ice

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1] Small cubes. a) Pump Out Check Valve 1. Dirty or worn and

leaking by.

1. Clean or replace.

b) Ice Cube Guide 1. Out of position.

Circulated water falls

into bin.

1. Place in position.

c) Water System 1. Water supply line too

small; requires 1/"

OD line dedicated per

machine.

1. Increase water line size.

.

Water lter clogged or

ow rate too small.

.

Replace lter or install a

higher ow rate lter.

d) Inlet Water Valve 1. Dirty mesh lter or

orice.

1. Clean.

e) Pump Motor 1. RPM too slow. 1. See chart 1.[5].

f) Control Board 1. Defective. 1. See "II.C.4. Control Board

Check Procedure."

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[]

Cloudy or irregular

cubes.

a) Evaporator 1. Frozen up. 1. See chart .

. Scaled up. . Clean

3. Damaged. 3. Replace.

b) Water System 1. Water supply line too

small; requires 1/"

OD line dedicated per

machine.

1. Increase water line size.

.

Water lter clogged or

ow rate too small.

. Replace lter or install a

higher ow rate lter.

3. High hardness or

contains impurities.

3. Install a water softener or

lter.

c) Spray Guide 1. Dirty. 1. Clean.

5. Other

Problem Possible Cause Remedy

[1] Icemaker will not stop

when bin is lled with

ice.

a) Bin Control Thermostat 1. Set too cold. 1. See "II.F. Bin Control."

.

Defective. . Replace.

[]

Abnormal noise. a) Pump Motor 1. Bearings worn out. 1. Replace.

b) Fan Motor (except

water-cooled models)

1. Bearings worn out. 1. Replace.

. Fan blade deformed. . Replace.

3. Fan blade does not

move freely.

3. Replace.

c) Compressor 1. Bearings worn out or

cylinder valve broken.

1. Replace.

.

Mounting pad out of

position.

. Reinstall.

d) Refrigerant Lines 1. Rub or touch other

lines or surfaces.

1. Reposition.

[3] Ice in storage bin

often melts.

a) Drain Line(s) 1. Plugged. 1. Clean.

b) Icemaker and Bin 1. Drains not run

separately.

1. Separate the drain lines.

c) Ice Cube Guide 1. Out of position.

Circulated water falls

into bin.

1. Place in position.

IV. Removal and Replacement of Components

IMPORTANT

1. Ensure all components, fasteners, and thumbscrews are securely in place

after the equipment is serviced.

. The Polyol Ester (POE) oils used in R-404A units can absorb moisture

quickly. Therefore it is important to prevent moisture from entering the

system when replacing or servicing parts.

3. Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is

opened. Do not replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement

has been made.

4. Do not leave the system open for longer than 15 minutes when replacing or

servicing parts.

A. Service for Refrigerant Lines

WARNING

Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace

of refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise

the pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture

with pressurized air for leak testing.

1. Refrigerant Recovery

The icemaker unit is provided with refrigerant service valves. Using proper refrigerant

practices, recover the refrigerant from the service valves and store it in an approved

container. Do not discharge the refrigerant into the atmosphere.

2. Brazing

WARNING

1. R-404A itself is not ammable at atmospheric pressure and temperatures up

to 176°F (80°C).

. R-404A itself is not explosive or poisonous. However, when exposed to

high temperatures (open ames), R-404A can be decomposed to form

hydrouoric acid and carbonyl uoride both of which are hazardous.

3. Always recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container. Do not

discharge the refrigerant into the atmosphere.

4. Do not use silver alloy or copper alloy containing arsenic.

5. Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a

trace of refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and

then raise the pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A

as a mixture with pressurized air for leak testing.

1) Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened. Do not

replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement has been made. Install the

new drier with the arrow on the drier in the direction of the refrigerant ow.

) Braze all ttings while purging with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

Note: Because the pipes in the evaporator case are specially coated to resist corrosion,

it is important to make connections outside the evaporator case when possible. If

it is necessary to braze inside the evaporator case, use sandpaper to remove the

coating from the brazing connections before unbrazing the components.

3) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

3. Evacuation and Recharge (R-404A)

1) Attach a vacuum pump to the system. Be sure to connect the charging hoses to both

the high and low-side service valves.

IMPORTANT

The vacuum level and vacuum pump may be the same as those for current

refrigerants. However, the rubber hose and service manifold to be used for

evacuation and refrigerant charge should be exclusively for POE oils.

) Turn on the vacuum pump. Open the service manifold valves. Never allow the oil in the

vacuum pump to ow backwards.

3) Allow the vacuum pump to pull down to a 9.9" Hg vacuum. Evacuating period depends

on pump capacity.

4) Close both the high and low-side valves on the service manifold.

5) Turn off the vacuum pump. Disconnect the vacuum pump hose and attach it to a

refrigerant service cylinder. Remember to loosen the connection and purge the air from

the hose.

For air-cooled and water-cooled models, see the nameplate for the required refrigerant

charge. For remote air-cooled models, see the rating label inside the icemaker.

Hoshizaki recommends only virgin refrigerant or reclaimed refrigerant which meets

ARI Standard 700 (latest edition) be used.

6) A liquid charge is recommended for charging an R-404A system. Invert the service

cylinder and place it on scales. Open the high-side valve on the service manifold.

7) Allow the system to charge with liquid until the proper charge weight is met.

8) If necessary, add any remaining charge to the system through the low-side. Use a

throttling valve or liquid dispensing device to add the remaining liquid charge through

the low-side service valve with the unit running.

9) Close the refrigerant service valves and the service manifold valves, then disconnect

the service manifold hoses.

10) Cap the service valves to prevent a possible leak.

B. Removal and Replacement of Compressor

IMPORTANT

Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened.

Do not replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement has been

made.

Note: When replacing a compressor with a defective winding, be sure to install the

new start capacitor and start relay supplied with the replacement compressor.

Due to the ability of the POE oil in the compressor to absorb moisture quickly,

the compressor must not be opened more than 15 minutes for replacement or

service. Do not mix lubricants of different compressors even if both are charged

with R-404A, except when they use the same lubricant.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels.

3) Recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container.

4) Remove the terminal cover on the compressor and disconnect the compressor wiring.

On remote air-cooled models, disconnect the crankcase heater.

5) Remove the discharge, suction, and process pipes.

6) Remove the hold-down bolts, washers, and rubber grommets.

7) Remove the compressor. Unpack the new compressor package.

8) Attach the rubber grommets of the prior compressor to the new compressor.

9) Place the compressor in position and secure it using the bolts and washers.

10) Remove the drier, then place the new drier in position.

11) Remove the plugs from the suction, discharge, and process pipes.

1) Braze all ttings while purging with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

13) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

14) Evacuate the system and charge it with refrigerant. For air-cooled and water-cooled

models, see the nameplate for the required refrigerant charge. For remote air-cooled

models, see the rating label inside the icemaker.

15) Connect the terminals and replace the terminal cover in its correct position. On remote

air-cooled models, connect the crankcase heater.

16) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

17) Turn on the power supply.

C. Removal and Replacement of Expansion Valve

IMPORTANT

Sometimes moisture in the refrigeration circuit exceeds the drier capacity and

freezes up at the expansion valve. Always install a new drier every time the

sealed refrigeration system is opened. Do not replace the drier until after all

other repair or replacement has been made.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels.

3) Recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container.

4) Remove the insulation and the expansion valve bulb on the suction line.

5) Remove the expansion valve cover and disconnect the expansion valve. Place the new

expansion valve in position.

6) Remove the drier, then place the new drier in position.

7) Braze all ttings while purging with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

CAUTION

Always protect the valve body by using a damp cloth to prevent the valve from

overheating. Do not braze with the valve body exceeding 50°F (11°C).

8) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

9) Evacuate the system, and charge it with refrigerant. For air-cooled and water-cooled

models, see the nameplate for the required refrigerant charge. For remote air-cooled

models, see the rating label inside the icemaker.

10) Attach the expansion valve bulb to the suction line in the same location as the previous

bulb. The bulb should be between the 10 and  o'clock positions on the tube. Be sure

to secure the bulb with the clamp and holder and to insulate it.

11) Place the expansion valve cover in position.

1) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

13) Turn on the power supply.

D. Removal and Replacement of Hot Gas Valve or Liquid Line Valve

IMPORTANT

1. Always use a copper tube of the same diameter and length when replacing

the hot gas valve lines; otherwise, performance may be affected.

. Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is

opened. Do not replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement

has been made.

3. Always replace the strainer when replacing the hot gas valve.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels.

3) Recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container.

4) Remove the bolt and the solenoid.

5) Disconnect the valve. If replacing the hot gas valve, also remove the strainer.

6) Place the new valve and strainer (if applicable) in position.

7) Remove the drier, then place the new drier in position.

8) Braze all ttings while purging with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

CAUTION

Always protect the valve body by using a damp cloth to prevent the valve from

overheating. Do not braze with the valve body exceeding 50°F (11°C).

9) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

10) Evacuate the system, and charge it with refrigerant. For air-cooled and water-cooled

models, see the nameplate for the required refrigerant charge. For remote air-cooled

models, see the rating label inside the icemaker.

11) Cut the leads of the solenoid allowing enough lead length to reconnect using closed

end connectors.

1) Connect the new solenoid leads.

13) Attach the solenoid to the valve body and secure it with the bolt.

14) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

15) Turn on the power supply.

E. Removal and Replacement of Evaporator

IMPORTANT

Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened.

Do not replace the drier until after all other repairs or replacement have been

made.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels and the front and top insulation.

3) Recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container.

4) Remove the spray tubes. Remove the insulation at the "U" shaped notch where the

refrigeration tubing passes through the molded chassis.

5) Disconnect the evaporator tubing.

6) Remove the pop rivets securing the evaporator, then lift out the evaporator.

7) Install the new evaporator.

8) Remove the drier, then place the new drier in position.

9) Braze all ttings while purging with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

10) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

11) Evacuate the system, and charge it with refrigerant. For air-cooled and water-cooled

models, see the nameplate for the required refrigerant charge. For remote air-cooled

models, see the rating label inside the icemaker.

1) Replace the removed parts in the reverse order of which they were removed.

13) Replace the top insulation and the panels in their correct positions.

14) Turn on the power supply.

F. Removal and Replacement of Condenser - Air-Cooled Models

IMPORTANT

Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened.

Do not replace the drier until after all other repairs or replacement have been

made.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels.

3) Recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container.

4) Disconnect the condenser inlet and outlet piping.

5) Remove the side frame, then remove the condenser assembly.

6) Install the new condenser assembly, then attach the side frame in its correct position.

7) Remove the drier, then place the new drier in position.

8) Braze all ttings while purging with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

9) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

10) Evacuate the system, and charge it with refrigerant. See the nameplate for the required

refrigerant charge.

11) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

1) Turn on the power supply.

13) Evacuate the system, and charge it with refrigerant. See the nameplate for the required

refrigerant charge.

14) Close the drain valve(s). Open the condenser water supply line shut-off valve. If

connected to a closed loop water supply, also open the condenser return outlet shut-off

valve.

15) Check for water leaks.

16) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

17) Turn on the power supply.

H. Removal and Replacement of Condenser - Remote Air-Cooled Models

IMPORTANT

Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened.

Do not replace the drier until after all other repairs or replacement have been

made.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the icemaker panels.

3) Recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container.

4) Remove the condenser unit panels.

5) Disconnect the condenser inlet and outlet piping.

6) Remove the screws securing the condenser to the base of the unit, then remove the

condenser.

7) Remove the shroud from the condenser and attach to the new condenser.

8) Install the new condenser.

9) Remove the drier (located in the icemaker), then place the new drier in position.

10) Braze all ttings while purging with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

11) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

1) Evacuate the system, and charge it with refrigerant. See the rating label inside the

icemaker for the required refrigerant charge.

13) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

14) Turn on the power supply.

J. Adjustment of Water Regulating Valve - Water-Cooled Models

The water regulating valve (also called "water regulator") is factory-adjusted. No adjustment

is required under normal use. Adjust the water regulator, if necessary, using the following

procedures.

1) Prepare a thermometer to check the condenser drain temperature. Attach a pressure

gauge to the high-side line of the system.

) Five minutes after a freeze cycle starts,

conrm that the thermometer reads 104°F

to 115°F (40°C to 46°C). If it does not,

rotate the adjustment screw by using a at

blade screwdriver until the temperature

is in the proper range. See Fig. 1. Next,

check that the reference pressure is in the

range indicated in the Head Pressure table

in the Performance Data section. If it is not

in the proper range, verify the refrigerant

charge.

3) Check that the condenser drain temperature is stable.

K. Removal and Replacement of Headmaster (Condensing Pressure

Regulator - C.P.R.) - Remote Air-Cooled Models

IMPORTANT

Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened.

Do not replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement has been

made.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels from the remote condenser unit.

3) Recover the refrigerant and store it in an approved container.

4) Before heating, break off the stub on the dome to release the dome charge.

5) Disconnect the headmaster.

6) Place the new headmaster in position.

7) Remove the drier, then place the new drier in position.

8) Braze all ttings with nitrogen gas owing at a pressure of 3 to 4 PSIG.

CAUTION

Always protect the headmaster body by using a damp cloth to prevent it from

overheating. Do not braze with the headmaster body exceeding 50°F (11°C).

Fig. 1

Adjustment Screw

CW – Higher

CCW – Lower

Top View

9) Use an electronic leak detector or soap bubbles to check for leaks. Add a trace of

refrigerant to the system (if using an electronic leak detector), and then raise the

pressure using nitrogen gas (140 PSIG). DO NOT use R-404A as a mixture with

pressurized air for leak testing.

10) Evacuate the system and charge it with refrigerant. See the rating label inside the

icemaker for the required refrigerant charge.

11) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

1) Turn on the power supply.

L. Removal and Replacement of Thermistor

IMPORTANT

1. Fragile, handle very carefully.

. Always use the recommended sealant (high thermal conductive type), Model

KE4560RTV manufactured by SHINETSU SILICONE, Part Code 60Y000-11,

or Part Code 4A0683-01 or equivalent.

3. Always use the recommended foam insulation (non-absorbent type) or

equivalent.

4. Do not shorten or cut the thermistor leads.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels.

3) Remove the control box cover.

4) Disconnect the thermistor leads from the

K3 connector on the control board.

5) Remove the plastic cable ties, foam

insulation, thermistor holder, and

thermistor. See Fig. .

6) Scrape away the old sealant on the

thermistor holder and the suction pipe.

7) Wipe off moisture or condensation on the

suction pipe.

8) Smoothly apply recommended sealant (KE4560RTV, Part Code 60Y000-11 or

4A0683-01) to the thermistor holder concave.

9) Attach the new thermistor to the suction pipe in the same position as the previous

thermistor. Be very careful to prevent damage to the leads. Secure it using the

thermistor holder and recommended foam insulation.

10) Secure the insulation using the plastic cable ties.

Foam Insulation Thermistor Holder

Thermistor Lead Cable Tie

Fig. 2

11) Connect the thermistor leads through the bushing of the control box to the K3 connector

on the control board.

CAUTION

Do not cut the leads of the thermistor.

1) Replace the control box cover and the panels in their correct positions.

13) Turn on the power supply.

M. Removal and Replacement of Fan Motor - Air-Cooled and Remote

Air-Cooled Models

Note: When replacing a fan motor with defective winding, it is recommended that a new

capacitor be installed.

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the panels.

3) Remove the junction box cover from the remote condenser unit (remote air-cooled

models).

4) Disconnect the fan motor wires.

5) Remove the fan motor bracket and fan motor.

6) Install the new fan motor, connect the fan motor wires, and replace the removed parts

in the reverse order of which they were removed.

7) Replace the panels in their correct positions.

8) Replace the junction box cover in its correct position (remote air-cooled models).

9) Turn on the power supply.

N. Removal and Replacement of Inlet Water Valve

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Close the icemaker water supply line shut-off valve. Open the icemaker water supply

line drain valve.

3) Remove the front panel.

4) Disconnect the valve outlet tubing by releasing the clamp.

5) Loosen the tting nut. Be careful not to lose the washer.

6) Disconnect the terminals from the inlet water valve.

7) Remove the bracket and valve from the unit.

8) Install the new valve. Replace the removed parts in the reverse order of which they

were removed. Make sure the washer is in place in the tting nut.

9) Close the icemaker water supply line drain valve. Open the icemaker water supply line

shut-off valve.

10) Turn on the power supply.

11) Check for leaks.

1) Replace the front panel in its correct position.

13) Turn on the power supply.

O. Removal and Replacement of Pump Motor

1) Turn off the power supply.

) Remove the front panel and the insulation panel.

3) Drain the water tank by removing the cap

located on the front bottom part of the ice

dropping hole. See Fig. 3.

4) Replace the cap in its correct position. Be

careful not to cross thread the cap.

5) Disconnect the pump suction and discharge hoses.

6) Remove the closed end connectors from

the pump motor leads. Disconnect the

ground wire.

7) Remove the two screws and the pump motor bracket.

8) Remove the pump housing and check the impeller.

9) If the impeller is defective, install a new impeller.

10) Install the new motor or new parts, and replace the removed parts in the reverse order

of which they were removed. Be sure to reconnect the pump motor ground wire.

11) Turn on the power supply and check for leaks.

1) Replace the insulation panel and the front panel in their correct positions.

13) Turn on the power supply.

Fig. 3

Front

Inside of Ice

Dropping Hole

Cube Guide

Separator

Cap

V. Cleaning and Maintenance

IMPORTANT

Ensure all components, fasteners, and thumbscrews are securely in place after

any cleaning or maintenance is done to the equipment.

A. Cleaning and Sanitizing Instructions

Hoshizaki recommends cleaning this icemaker at least once a year. More frequent

cleaning, however, may be required in some existing water conditions.

WARNING

1. To prevent injury to individuals and damage to the icemaker, do not use

ammonia type cleaners.

. Always wear liquid-proof gloves to prevent the cleaning and sanitizing

solutions from coming into contact with skin.

3. Carefully follow any instructions provided with the bottles of cleaning and

sanitizing solution.

4. Never run the icemaker when the water tank is empty.

1. Cleaning Procedure

1) KM1601SRH350: Dilute 2

7 fl. oz. (800 ml) of recommended cleaner Hoshizaki "Scale Away"

or "LIME-A-WAY," (Economics Laboratory, Inc.) with 5 gal. (19 l) of warm water.

KM1900SAH350 and KM2100SRH350: Dilute 38 fl.oz. (1,124 ml) of recommended cleaner

Hoshizaki "Scale Away" or "Lime-A-Way" (Economics Laboratory, Inc.) with 7 gal. (26 l) of

warm water.

2) Remove all ice from the evaporator and the storage bin.

Note: To remove cubes on the evaporator, turn off the power

supply and turn it back on after 3 minutes. The harvest cycle

starts and the cubes will be removed from the

evaporator.

3) Turn off the power supply.

4) Remove the front panel, and then remove

the insulation panel by first removing the

thumbscrew, lifting up the panel slightly

and pulling it towards you.

5) Remove the cap located on the front

bottom part of the ice dropping hole. Drain

the water tank.

6) Replace the cap in its correct position. Be

careful not to cross thread it.

Fig. 5

Cap

Inside of Ice

Dropping Hole

7) In bad or severe water conditions, clean the oat switch assembly as described below.

Otherwise, continue to step 8.

a. Disconnect the vent tube and the ush tube from the top of the oat switch, then

remove the oat switch assembly from the mounting bracket and remove the

rubber boot from the bottom of the assembly.

b. Remove the retainer rod from the bottom of the oat switch assembly, then remove

the oat. Be careful not to bend the retainer rod excessively when removing it.

c. Wipe down the oat switch assembly's housing, shaft, oat, and retainer rod with

cleaning solution. Clean the inside of the rubber boot and hose with cleaning

solution. Rinse the parts thoroughly with clean water.

d. Reassemble the oat switch assembly and replace it and the rubber boot in their

correct positions. Reconnect the vent tube and the ush tube.

8) Pour the cleaning solution into the water tank.

9) Move the control switch on the control box to the "WASH" position.

10) Replace the insulation panel and the front panel in their correct positions.

11) Turn on the power supply to start the washing process.

1) Turn off the power supply after 30 minutes.

13) Remove the front panel and the insulation panel.

14) Remove the cap located on the front bottom part of the ice dropping hole. Drain the

water tank. Replace the cap and the insulation panel in their correct positions.

15) Move the control switch to the "ICE" position.

16) Replace the front panel in its correct position.

17) Turn on the power supply to ll the water tank with water.

18) Turn off the power supply after 3 minutes.

19) Remove the front panel.

0) Move the control switch to the "WASH" position.

1) Replace the front panel in its correct position.

) Turn on the power supply to rinse off the cleaning solution.

3) Turn off the power supply after 5 minutes.

4) Remove the front panel and the insulation panel.

5) Remove the cap located on the front bottom part of the ice dropping hole. Drain the

water tank. Replace the cap and the insulation panel in their correct positions.

Note: Do not replace the insulation panel when you proceed to ". Sanitizing

Procedure."

6) Repeat steps 15 through 5 three more times to rinse thoroughly.

Note: If you do not sanitize the icemaker, go to step 9 in ". Sanitizing Procedure."

2. Sanitizing Procedure - Following Cleaning Procedure

1) KM1601SRH350: Dilute 2

.5 fl. oz. (74 ml or 5 tbs) of a 5.25% sodium

hypochlorite solution (chlorine bleach) with 5 gal. (19 l) of

warm water.

KM1900SAH350 and KM2100SRH350: Dilute 3.5 fl. oz. (104 ml or 7 tbs) of a 5.25%

sodium hyprochlorite solution (chlorine bleach) with 7 gal. (26 l) of warm water.

2) Pour the sanitizing solution into the water tank.

3) Replace the insulation panel and the front panel in their

correct positions.

Note: Make sure that the control switch is in the "WASH" position.

4) Turn on the power supply to start the sanitizing process.

5) Turn off the power supply after 15 minutes.

6) Remove the front panel and the insulation panel.

7) Remove the cap located on the front bottom part of the ice dropping hole. Drain the

water tank. Replace the cap and the insulation panel in their correct positions.

8) Repeat steps 15 through 2

5 in "Cleaning Procedure" two times to rinse thoroughly.

9) Move the control switch to the "ICE" position.

10) Replace the front panel in its correct position.

11) Clean the storage bin using a neutral cleaner. Rinse thoroughly after cleaning.

12) Turn on the power supply to start the automatic icemaking process.

B. Maintenance Instructions

IMPORTANT

This icemaker must be maintained individually, referring to the instruction

manual and labels provided with the icemaker.

1. Stainless Steel Exterior

To prevent corrosion, wipe the exterior occasionally with a clean, soft cloth. Use a damp

cloth containing a neutral cleaner to wipe off oil or dirt build up.

2. Storage Bin and Scoop

• Wash your hands before removing ice. Use the plastic scoop provided (bin accessory).

• The storage bin is for ice use only. Do not store anything else in the storage bin.

• Clean the scoop and the storage bin liner using a neutral cleaner. Rinse thoroughly

after cleaning.

3. Air Filters (air-cooled models)

Plastic mesh air lters remove dirt and dust from the air, and keep the condenser from

getting clogged. As the lters get clogged, the icemaker's performance will be reduced.

Check the lters at least twice a month. When clogged, use warm water and a neutral

cleaner to wash the lters.

4. Condenser (air-cooled and remote air-cooled models)

Check the condenser once a year, and clean the coil if required by using a brush or

vacuum cleaner. More frequent cleaning may be required depending on location.

C. Preparing the Icemaker for Long Storage

IMPORTANT

When shutting off the icemaker for an extended time, drain out all water from

the water tank and remove the ice from the storage bin. The storage bin should

be cleaned and dried. Drain the icemaker to prevent damage to the water

supply line at sub-freezing temperatures, using air or carbon dioxide. Shut off

the icemaker until the proper ambient temperature is resumed.

When the icemaker is not used for two or three days, it is sufcient to only move the control

switch to the "OFF" position, unless the icemaker will be at sub-freezing temperatures.

1. On water-cooled models only, rst remove the water from the water-cooled

condenser:

1) Turn off the power supply and remove the front panel and right side panel.

) Close the condenser water supply line shut-off valve. If connected to a closed loop

water supply, also close the condenser return outlet shut-off valve.

3) Open the condenser water supply line drain valve. If connected to a closed loop water

supply, also open the condenser return outlet drain valve.

4) Attach a compressed air or carbon dioxide supply to the condenser water supply line

drain valve.

55) Open the water regulating valve by using a screwdriver to pry up on the spring retainer

underneath the spring. While holding the valve open, blow out the condenser using the

compressed air or carbon dioxide supply until water stops coming out.

6) Close the drain valve(s) and replace the right side panel in its correct position.1

1. Remove the water from the icemaker water supply line:

1) If you have not already done so, turn off the power supply and remove the front panel.

) Close the icemaker water supply line shut-off valve and open the icemaker water

supply line drain valve.

3) Allow the line to drain by gravity.

4) Attach a compressed air or carbon dioxide supply to the icemaker water supply line

drain valve.

5) Make sure at least 3 minutes have elapsed since you turned off the power supply.

Make sure the control switch is in the "ICE" position. Replace the front panel in its

correct position and turn on the power supply.

6) Blow the icemaker water supply line out using the compressed air or carbon dioxide

supply.

7) Close the icemaker water supply line drain valve.

2. Drain the water tank:

1) Turn off the power supply and remove the front panel. Move the control switch to the

"OFF" position.

) Remove the insulation panel. Remove the cap located on the front bottom part of the

ice dropping hole. Drain the water tank. See Fig. 5.

3) Replace the cap and the insulation panel in their correct positions. Be careful not to

cross thread the cap.

4) Remove all ice from the storage bin. Clean the storage bin using a neutral cleaner.

Rinse thoroughly after cleaning.

5) Replace the insulation panel and the front panel in their correct positions.

Fig. 5

Front

Inside of Ice

Dropping Hole

Cube Guide

Separator

Cap

Hoshizaki KM2100SRH-350 Crescent Ice Maker Remote Head Only

Product's Documents

User Manual

Specifications

Hoshizaki KM2100SRH-350 Questions and Answers