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BEVEL CROSSCUTTING
BEVEL CROSSCUTTfNG is the same as crosscutting
except that the wood is also cut at an angle other
than 90 ° with the flat side of the wood
Adjust the blade to the desired angle.
Use the Miter Gauge in the groove to the RIGHT of
the blade It cannot be used in the groove to the
LEFT because the blade guard wilt interfere, Hold
the workpiece with your right hand and the lock-
handle with your left hand
Use the AUXILIARY FENCE/WORK SUPPORT for
additional support of the workpiece
Lay it across the guide bars to support the workpiece
as near to the end as possible.
Use the Hold-Down Clamp (Optional Accessory) on
the miter gauge for greater accuracy_
COMPOUND MITER CUTTING
COMPOUND MITER CUTTING is a combination of
miter cutting and bevel crosscutting, The cut is
made at an angle other than 90° to both the edge and
the flat side of the wood,
Adjust the miter gauge and the blade to the desired
angle ,, Make sure miter gauge is locked
USUNG THE RIP FENCE
RIPPING, BEVEL RIPPING, PLOUGHING, MOLDING,
RESAWING AND RABBETTING are performed using
the RlP FENCE together with the AUXILIARY FENCE/
WORK SUPPORT, PUSH STICK OR PUSH BLOCK°
WARNING: Make sure the featherboard against the
edge presses only on the uncut portion (forward of
the blade). It might otherwise pinchthe blade in the
kerf and cause a kickback.
- A FEATHERBOARD can help guide the work-
piece
KERFS ABOUT
5/16" APART
4-1/2
24"
5"
ADDITIONAL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
FOR RIP TYPE CUTS
- NEVER use the miter gauge when ripping
- Use a push stick whenever the fence is 2 to 6
inches from the blade, Use an auxiliary fence and
_push block whenever the fence must be within 2
inches of the blade.. (See "Basic Saw Operation
Using The Rip Fence" section..)
-When using a push stick or push block, the
trailing end of the board must be square A push
stick or block against an uneven end could slip
off or push the work away from the fence.
- Never rip anything shorter than 10" long.
Before starting
-To avoid kickbacks and slips into the blade,
make su re the rip fence is parallel to the sawblade
- Check the antikickback pawls (See BASIC SAW
OPERATION - USING THE RIP FENCE.) The
pawls must stop a kickback once it has started
Replace or sharpen antikickback pawls when
points become dull
-Plastic and composition (like hardboard)
materials may be cut on your saw However,
since these are usually quite hard and slippery,
the aptikickback pawls may not stop a kickback
Therefore, be especially careful in your set-up
and cutting procedures
While cutting
-To avoid kickbacks and slips into the blade,
always push forward on the section of the work-
piece between the saw blade and the rip fence
Never push forward on the piece being cut off
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