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12 13
FINISH PROBLEMS
ORANGE PEEL - If the finish is rough and resembles orange peel then
the material is too thick. (Or perhaps you have the Air Control Valve
turned down - please check that it is fully open). The ‘paint’ will not
atomize properly and the surface will be spotty. To remedy this, add
more thinner (or appropriate solvent). For fast drying products such as
lacquers, you may also want to add a lacquer retarder. This will slow
the drying time allowing the material to flow out and level nicely.
Retarders are available for other coatings too, such as Penetrol for Oil-
based paints or Floetrol for Latex house paints. These products go
under different names such as Flow-Out Additives etc. Please check
with the coatings manufacturer.
NOTE: With the newer water-based materials ‘orange peel’ is usually a
result of spraying on too thick a film. Try spraying an extremely
THIN FILM, but still WET coat. With most other coatings, orange
peel is caused by material being too thick or not enough atomizing
power. This is why we suggest leaving the air control valve fully open
when experimenting with a new coating material, otherwise it will
cause confusion. If the the Air Control Valve is fully open (or perhaps
removed for Latex spraying) then orange peel can only be one cause -
the material is too thick and must be thinned.
GRITTY FINISH - If the material is too thin, it is likely to run or be
over-atomized, producing a rough gritty finish. Try thinning the product
less and spraying a wetter coat.
FISH EYES - If you are refinishing furniture or pianos, fish eyes could
become a problem. The cause is usually silicone or oil from polish
which has been liquified by the paint stripper that has now soaked into
the bare wood. This silicone prevents the lacquer from adhering to the
wood. One way to sometimes correct this is to seal in the silicone by
misting on two or three light coats of lacquer. Then spray on a regular
wet coat. We do not recommend the use of a product known as ‘Fish-
Eye Drops’ which is essentially liquid silicone. Silicone will only
contaminate the gun even further. Anything that comes into contact
with the silicone becomes contaminated - such as; rags, aprons,
bench tops, gloves.
CLEANING FLUID PASSAGES
To clean, flush solvent through the Spray Gun while the paint is still wet
inside the Gun. If this type of quick cleaning is performed frequently, the
Spray Gun will function well for many years. 99% of problems with a
Spray Gun stem from clogs in the fluid passages and (perhaps more
important), the Pressure Tube air passages. Please see Page 12... No
Paint (or very little paint).
CLEANING BEHIND THE FLUID NOZZLE
Remove the Collar 5201 and Aircap 5202. Using the supplied Wrench,
remove the Fluid Nozzle 5203. Once the Fluid Nozzle is removed please
be careful that the Air Diffuser 5204 does not fall out of the Gun. Use the
Cleaning Brush and appropriate solvent to clean behind the Fluid Nozzle.
The Air Cap, Fluid Nozzle, Needle, Air Diffuser and Air Divider may be
soaked in solvent. To remove the Needle, remove the Fluid Knob 5221,
Spring 5220 from the rear of the gun. The Needle can then be soaked
and later wiped clean.
When reinstalling the Air Diffuser, note that there is a Locating Pin on the
back side. This pin must be located into the matching hole in the Air
Divider 5207.
PLEASE DO NOT SOAK THE WHOLE GUN IN ANY LIQUID - THIS IS
NEVER NECESSARY OR ADVISABLE.
CLOGGED GUN - THE FLUID COUPLER
If the Fluid Coupler 5208 (T-70) or 5211 (T-75G) is clogged with dried
paint it must be cleaned while in place in the Gun. The Fluid Coupler
should not be removed. Remove the Cup Assembly by loosening the
Nut. Use the supplied Cleaning Brush to unclog the inside of the Fluid
Coupler using Solvent. Replace the Cup. Before tightening, position the
Cup to the preferred position and tighten the Nut.
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