Cover A
Enclosed Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged,
contact your retailer.
Accessories
The following items should also be enclosed in the box.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24.
* 75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
No. Part Name
Part Code
No. Part Name
Part Code
U.S.A. Others U.S.A. Others
1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-051 13 Eyelet punch 135793-001
2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-051 14 Screwdriver (large) X55467-051
3 Monogramming foot “N” X53840-351 15 Screwdriver (small) X55468-051
4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-051 16 Spool cap (large) 130012-054
5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-051 17 Spool cap (medium)(2) X55260-153
6 Blind stitch foot “R” X56409-051 18 Spool cap (small) 130013-154
7 Button fitting foot “M” 130489-001 19 Extra spool pin (horizontal) XC4654-051
8 Seam ripper X54243-001 20 Spool net XA5523-050
9 Bobbin (4) SA156 XA5539-151 21 Foot controller XC1154-051
10 Needle set X58358-051 22 Operation manual XE1140-001
11 Twin needle X59296-051 23 Quick reference guide XC4546-151
12 Cleaning brush X59476-051 24 Hard case XC2360-152
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NX-200/PC-210.
● The screw of the presser foot holder is
available through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)
● The organized accessory tray is available
through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XC4489-051)
Cover B
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the
sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
1 Thread guide plate / 2 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when
threading the upper thread.
3 Spool pin
Place the spool on the spool pin.
4 Thread guide for bobbin winding
Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread.
5 Upper cover
Open the upper cover to place the spool of thread on
the spool pin.
6 Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
7 Operation panel
Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation
panel. (page Cover E)
8 Sewing speed controller
Use the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
9 Operation buttons
Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine
and raise and lower the needle. (page Cover D)
0 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory
compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing
cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.
A Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
B Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
C Thread tension dial
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
5
3
4
6
2
1
7
9
8
B
C
A
0
———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
Cover C
Needle and presser foot
section
1 Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
2 Thread guide discs
Pass the thread through the thread guide discs when
using the needle threader to thread the needle.
3 Needle bar thread hook
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
hook.
4 Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
5 Bobbin cover/shuttle
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin
into the shuttle.
6 Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
7 Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
8 Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
Right-side/rear view
1 Presser foot dial
Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of
pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.
2 Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
3 Balance wheel
Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower
the needle to sew one stitch.
4 Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be
exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
5 Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
on and off.
6 Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
7 Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power
supply jack.
8 Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
Memo
● Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you
are learning to use your machine.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
2
3
5
6
4
7
8
1
Cover D
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
1 Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 39).
The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending
on how the sewing machine is being operated.
Green: When the machine is ready to start
sewing or while it is sewing
Red: When the machine is not ready to start
sewing
Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is moved
to the right for winding the bobbin
thread onto the bobbin
2 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 41).
3 Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
4 Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
5 Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
2
3
1
4
5
Cover E
Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of various buttons and
sliders for specifying how the stitch will be sewn.
1 Stitch width adjustment slider / 2 Stitch width adjustment button
These are used to adjust the width of the stitch or the needle position. After pressing the stitch width adjustment button, use
the stitch width adjustment slider to adjust the stitch width.
3 Stitch length adjustment slider / 4 Stitch length adjustment button
These are used to adjust the length of the stitch. After pressing the stitch length adjustment button, use the stitch length
adjustment slider to adjust the stitch length.
5 Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
Press the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the
beginning and end of stitching.
6 Needle stop position key
This is used to change the position of the needle when the sewing machine is stopped. If the key is lit, the sewing machine
will stop with the needle lowered. If the key is not lit, the sewing machine will stop with the needle raised.
7 Stitch selection key / 8Stitch indicator
Press the stitch selection key, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. 50 stitches are available. For
details, refer to “Selecting Stitching” (page 54).
9 Stitches
There are 50 stitches. Select stitch 00-49.
A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot that should be used appears to the right of the stitch number.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1
Optional Accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1. Side cutter
Part code: SA177, XC3879-002
2. Quilting guide
Part code: SA132, XC2215-002
3. Wide table
Part code: SA537, XC4541-051
4. Walking foot
Part code: SA140, XC2214-002
5. Quilting foot
Part code: SA129, XC1948-002
6. Adjustable zipper/piping foot
Part code: SA161, XC1970-002
7. Non stick foot
Part code: SA114, XC1949-002
8. Open toe foot
Part code: SA147, XC1964-002
9. Stitch guide foot “P”
Part code: SA160, XA8839-002
Memo
● To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized
service center.
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————Enclosed Accessories
2
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine.
Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 6), and then study this
manual for the correct operation of the various functions.
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.
Sewing Machine Features
1 Easy upper threading
Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation. (page 18)
2 One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 16)
3 Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 12)
4 Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches.(page 54)
1
3
2
4
3
Contents
Enclosed Accessories ................................................................................................ Cover A
Accessories .............................................................................................................................................Cover A
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions .......................................................... Cover B
Front view ...............................................................................................................................................Cover B
Needle and presser foot section ..............................................................................................................Cover C
Right-side/rear view ................................................................................................................................Cover C
Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D
Operation panel ...................................................................................................................................... Cover E
Optional Accessories ...........................................................................................................1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................2
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................2
Contents ..............................................................................................................................3
Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................6
GETTING READY ..............................................................................................9
Turning the Machine On/Off .............................................................................................10
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 10
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...........................................................................................12
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 12
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 12
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 16
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................18
Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................. 18
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 21
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 22
Using thread that winds off quickly ................................................................................................................. 24
Pulling up the bobbin thread ........................................................................................................................... 25
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................26
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 26
Needle types and their uses ............................................................................................................................. 26
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 27
Replacing the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 28
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................29
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 29
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 29
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ........................................................................................................ 30
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 31
Using the optional walking foot ...................................................................................................................... 31
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces ....................................................................................33
Stitching cylindrical pieces .............................................................................................................................. 33
Sewing large pieces of fabric ........................................................................................................................... 33
SEWING BASICS .............................................................................................35
Sewing ............................................................................................................................... 36
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 37
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 38
Starting to sew ................................................................................................................................................. 39
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 41
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 43
Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................44
Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................ 44
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
4
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................45
Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 45
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 46
Useful Functions ................................................................................................................47
Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................. 47
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ....................................................................................... 47
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................49
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 49
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 49
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 49
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 50
Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 51
Sewing stretch fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 51
Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 51
UTILITY STITCHES ..........................................................................................53
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................54
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 54
Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................56
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ................................................................................... 56
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” ............................................................................................. 57
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 58
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................60
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 60
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................61
Buttonhole Stitching ..........................................................................................................63
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 64
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 67
Zipper Insertion .................................................................................................................70
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 70
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 71
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................74
Stretch stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 74
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 74
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................76
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 77
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 78
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 78
Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 79
Free-motion quilting ........................................................................................................................................ 80
Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................... 82
Triple stretch stitching ..................................................................................................................................... 82
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 82
Eyelet Stitching...................................................................................................................84
Decorative Stitching ..........................................................................................................85
Fagoting .......................................................................................................................................................... 86
Scallop stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 87
Smocking ........................................................................................................................................................ 87
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 88
Heirloom stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 89
5
APPENDIX .......................................................................................................91
Stitch Settings ....................................................................................................................92
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 92
Maintenance ......................................................................................................................96
Cleaning the machine surface ......................................................................................................................... 96
Cleaning the shuttle ........................................................................................................................................ 96
Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................98
Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 101
Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 102
Removing the upper cover ............................................................................................................................ 102
Index ...............................................................................................................................103
6
Important Safety Instructions
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:
Read all instructions before using.
DANGER
-
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING
-
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is
used by or near children.
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “{” position which represents off, then
remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the machine to the symbol “{” position when making any adjustments in the needle
area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and
the like.
15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision.
17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.
18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
7
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.
IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut
off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in
the plug.
NOTE
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE
LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.
The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code:
Blue Neutral
Brown Live
As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.
The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘N’ or colored black or blue.
The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘L’ or colored red or brown.
8
CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully
enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread take-
up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
• Operation is completed
• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
• A power failure occurs during use
• Maintaining the machine
• Leaving the machine unattended
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or
store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in
the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,
please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com
1 GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................10
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ................................................................................12
Upper Threading .....................................................................................................18
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................26
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................29
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................33
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
10
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
●
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
●
Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
●
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
●
Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
●
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
●
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
●
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
WARNING
CAUTION
Turning the Machine On/Off 11
1
Turning on the machine
1
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and
then plug the power supply cord into the
power supply jack on the right side of the
machine.
2
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a
household electrical outlet.
1 Power supply jack
3
Press the right side of the main power switch
on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).
X The sewing lamp comes on when the
machine is turned on.
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
1
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
2
Press the left side of the main power switch on
the right side of the machine (set it to “{”).
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
machine is turned off.
3
Unplug the power supply cord from the
electrical outlet.
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
supply cord.
4
Unplug the power supply cord from the
power supply jack.
Note
● When the sewing machine is turned off, all
stitch settings are cancelled.
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,
contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any
way.
1
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
12
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
1 Bobbin winder
Memo
● The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
●
Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing
machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
●
The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
CAUTION
Actual size
This model Older model
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
1
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 13
1
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
2
Lift open the upper cover.
3
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.
1 Notch
2 Bobbin winder shaft spring
4
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
5
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap
6
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unrolls from the
bottom front of the spool.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unrolls correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
7
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
right side of the spool touches the right end of
the spool pin.
• Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small). Use the spool cap with
a diameter that is slightly larger than the
diameter of the spool. The medium-sized
spool cap is already on the spool pin when
the sewing machine is purchased.
1 Spool cap (large)
2 Spool cap (medium)
3 Spool
• When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small spool cap with some space
between the cap and the spool.
1 Spool
2 Gap
3 Spool cap (small)
1
2
1
2
1
2
3
1
2
3
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
14
8
While holding the spool with your right hand,
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
to the front.
1 Thread guide cover
9
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate
from the right.
1 Thread guide plate
0
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
hook on the thread guide for bobbin winding,
and then wind it counterclockwise between
the discs.
1 Thread guide for bobbin winding
a
While using your left hand to hold the end of
the thread that wraps around the thread guide
for bobbin winding, use your right hand to
wind the free end of the thread clockwise
around the bobbin four or five times.
b
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
1 Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.
●
Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
or the needle may break.
CAUTION
1
1
1
1
1
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 15
1
c
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(so that the speed will be fast).
1 Sewing speed controller
d
Press (start/stop button) once.
1 Start/stop button
X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is
wound around the bobbin.
X The bobbin stops spinning when it is full.
e
Press (start/stop button) once.
X The sewing machine stops.
f
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread
wound around the bobbin.
g
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
h
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.
i
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position.
Memo
● When the sewing machine is started or the
balance wheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
●
Be sure to cut the thread as described on
the previous page. If the bobbin is wound
without cutting the thread using the
cutter built into the slit in the bobbin
winder seat, the thread may become
tangled in the bobbin or the needle may
bend or break when the bobbin thread
starts to run out.
CAUTION
1
1
●
Use a bobbin thread that has been
correctly wound, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
CAUTION
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
16
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
Memo
● The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the shuttle is indicated by
marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread
the machine as indicated.
1
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
1 Bobbin cover
2 Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
2
Remove the bobbin cover.
3
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and
hold the end of the thread with your left.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
4
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the
thread unrolls to the left.
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
5
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
hand, and then guide the thread as shown
with your left hand.
6
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and
then pull the thread out toward the front.
1 Cutter
X The cutter cuts the thread.
●
Use a bobbin thread that has been
correctly wound, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
●
The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from
older models are used, the machine will
not operate correctly. Use only the
enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same
type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
CAUTION
Actual size
This model Older model
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
12
1
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 17
1
7
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (on the
next page).
Memo
● You can begin sewing without pulling up
the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull
up the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 25).
●
Be sure to hold down the bobbin with
your finger and unroll the bobbin thread
correctly, otherwise the thread may
break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
CAUTION
2
1
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
18
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
Memo
● The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.
Threading the upper thread
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
2
Raise the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
●
When threading the upper thread,
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled or the needle may
bend or break.
CAUTION
1
Upper Threading 19
1
• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.
3
Press (needle position button) once
or twice to raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check
that the mark on the balance wheel is facing
up as shown in the illustration below. If the
balance wheel is not in this position, be sure
to press the needle position button to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.
1 Mark on balance wheel
4
Lift open the upper cover.
5
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap
6
Place the spool for the upper thread onto the
spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unrolls from the
bottom front of the spool.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unrolls correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
7
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
right side of the spool touches the right end of
the spool pin.
• Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small). Use the spool cap with
a diameter that is slightly larger than the
diameter of the spool. The medium-sized
spool cap is already on the spool pin when
the sewing machine is purchased.
1 Spool cap (large)
2 Spool cap (medium)
3 Spool
• When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small spool cap with some space
between the cap and the spool.
1 Spool
2 Gap
3 Spool cap (small)
1
1
1
2
1
2
3
1
2
3
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
20
8
While holding the spool with your right hand,
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
to the front.
1 Thread guide cover
9
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate
from the right.
1 Thread guide plate
0
While using your right hand to hold the thread
passed under the thread guide plate taut, pass
the thread through the guides in the order (up
→ left → down → up → down) shown.
1 Shutter
The following diagram shows the shutter
position when the presser foot is lowered.
Since the shutter is closed when the presser
foot is lowered, the machine cannot be
threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot so
that the shutter is open in order to thread the
machine.
1 Shutter
a
Pass the thread through the thread hook at the
base of the needle bar.
1 Thread hook
Next, use the needle threader to thread the
needle. Continue with the procedure in
“Threading the needle” (on the next page).
●
If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.
●
Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
or the needle may break.
CAUTION
1
1
1
1
1
Upper Threading 21
1
Threading the needle
The needle threader can be used with needle size
75/11 through 100/16. For more details on the
needle, refer to “Needle types and their uses”
(page 26).
1
With your left hand, hold the end of the
thread passed through the needle bar thread
hook, and then pass the thread through the
thread guide discs from the front.
1 Thread guide discs
2 Pass to the back.
3 Pass through the slit.
2
Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side
of the machine.
1 Thread cutter
3
Lower the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is lowered.
4
Lower the needle threader lever until it clicks.
1 Needle threader lever
X The thread is passed through the eye of the
needle.
5
Release the needle threader lever.
6
Carefully pull on the loop of thread passed
through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.
1
2
3
5
1
1
1
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
22
7
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the thread
through the presser foot, and then pull out
about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear
of the machine.
1 5 cm (2 inch)
X The upper threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to begin
sewing.
Note
● If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press the needle position button to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.
● If the twin needle is installed, the needle
threader cannot be used. For details, refer to
“Using the twin needle” (at the right).
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 92).
1
Install the twin needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 28).
2
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
eye.
• For details, refer to steps
1
through
a
of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 18).
3
Manually thread the left needle with the
upper thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
1
●
Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-051). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
●
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
CAUTION
Upper Threading 23
1
4
Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin
winder shaft.
Insert the extra spool pin so that it is
perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
1 Bobbin winder shaft
5
Swing down the spool pin so that it is
horizontal.
6
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on
the right side onto the extra spool pin, and
then secure it with the spool cap.
The thread should unroll from the top front of
the spool.
1 Spool cap
2 Spool
7
Thread the upper thread in the same way that
the upper thread for the left side was
threaded.
1 Thread guide cover
• For details, refer to step
8
through
0
of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 20).
8
Without passing the thread through the
needle bar thread hook, manually thread the
right needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
9
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 29).
0
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
12
●
When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
1
CAUTION
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
24
a
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting Stitching” (page 54).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 92).
• Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or
less.
b
Start sewing.
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
“Starting to sew” (page 39).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
Using thread that winds off
quickly
When using thread that winds off quickly, such as
transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the
enclosed spool net over the spool before placing the
spool of thread onto the spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the
spool.
1 Spool net
2 Spool
3 Spool cap
4 Spool pin
●
When using the twin needle, be sure to
select an appropriate stitch, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.
●
Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16
inch) or less, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
●
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
●
When changing the sewing direction,
press (needle position button) to
raise the needle from the fabric, and then
raise the presser foot lever and turn the
fabric.
CAUTION
CAUTION
2
1
3
4
Upper Threading 25
1
Pulling up the bobbin thread
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
1
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.
• Refer to steps
1 through 5 of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 16).
2
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
3
While lightly holding the upper thread with
your left hand, press (needle position
button) twice to raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
4
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
out the end of the bobbin thread.
5
Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of the bobbin
thread under the presser foot toward the rear
of the machine.
6
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
1
2
1
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
26
Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
●
Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
●
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Fabric Type/Application
Thread
Size of Needle
Type Size
Medium
weight
fabrics
Broadcloth Cotton thread
60
–
80
75/11–90/14
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread
50
–
80
Thin
fabrics
Lawn Cotton thread
60
–
80
65/9–75/11
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread
50
–
80
Thick
fabrics
Denim Cotton thread
30
–
50
90/14–100/16
Corduroy Synthetic thread
50
Tweed Silk thread
Stretch
fabrics
Jersey
Thread for knits
50
–
60
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
Tricot
Easily frayed fabrics
Cotton thread
50
–
80
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Silk thread
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread
30 90/14–100/16
Silk thread
CAUTION
Replacing the Needle 27
1
Memo
● The smaller the thread number, the thicker
the thread, and the larger the needle
number, the thicker the needle.
● Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.
● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.
● A 75/11 needle is already installed when
the sewing machine is purchased.
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1 Flat side
2 Needle type marking
■ Correct needle
1 Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
1 Flat surface
●
The appropriate fabric, thread and
needle combinations are shown in the
table on the previous page. If the
combination of the fabric, thread and
needle is not correct, particularly when
sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with
thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the
needle may bend or break. In addition,
the stitching may be uneven or puckered
or there may be skipped stitches.
CAUTION
1
2
1
1
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
28
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle”.
1
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
3
Lower the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
4
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw counterclockwise to remove the
needle.
1 Screwdriver
2 Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
5
With the flat side of the needle toward the
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
6
While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
●
Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
1
CAUTION
1
●
Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
2
1
CAUTION
Replacing the Presser Foot 29
1
Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
1
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
3
Raise the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
4
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder.
1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
●
Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
●
Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
CAUTION
1
●
Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
1
1
2
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
30
5
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
1 Presser foot holder
2 Notch
3 Pin
6
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
7
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
Note
● For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 92).
Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot
The amount of pressure that the presser foot applies
to the fabric can be adjusted.
1
Lower the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
2
Turn the presser foot dial at the back of the
sewing machine.
The scale on the dial indicates the range from
1 (weak) to 4 (strong). Turn the dial to the right
(smaller number) to decrease the pressure.
Turn the dial to the left (large number) to
increase the pressure.
3
When you are finished sewing, reset the dial
to 3 (standard).
1
2
3
1
1
3
Weak
Strong
Replacing the Presser Foot 31
1
Removing the presser foot
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
■ Removing the presser foot holder
1
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
holder screw.
1 Screwdriver
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
1
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
left side of the presser bar.
2
Hold the presser foot holder in place with
your right hand, and then tighten the screw
using the screwdriver in your left hand.
1 Screwdriver
Note
● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.
Using the optional walking
foot
With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed
evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser
foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard
to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing
fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
■ Attaching the walking foot
1
Remove the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (at the left).
2
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
onto the needle clamp screw.
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
3
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
with the screwdriver.
1 Presser foot holder screw
1
1
2
1
1
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
32
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
■ Removing the walking foot
1
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
3
Raise the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
4
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot
holder screw, and then remove the walking
foot.
5
Attach the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 31).
Memo
● Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 92).
Note
● The optional walking foot is available
through your brother retailer.
●
Be sure to securely tighten the screw
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
●
Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
balance wheel toward you and check
that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
1
1
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 33
1
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.
1
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
2
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, and then sew from the top.
3
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
Sewing large pieces of fabric
The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces
of fabric easier.
1
Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide
table.
Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
2
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
3
Install the wide table.
Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into
place.
Note
● The optional wide table is available through
your brother retailer.
GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
34
4
Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to
adjust their height.
5
When you are finished using the wide table,
remove it.
While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.
6
Install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
Memo
● With the legs folded up, the wide table can
be stored attached to the hard case.
●
Do not move the sewing machine while
the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.
CAUTION
2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................36
Adjusting the Thread Tension..................................................................................44
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length....................................................................45
Useful Functions .....................................................................................................47
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................49
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
36
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
●
While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
●
Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
●
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
●
Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
CAUTION
Sewing 37
2
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
1
Turn on the
machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine”
(page 11).
↓
2 Select the stitch.
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 54).
↓
3
Attach the presser
foot.
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
↓
4 Position the fabric.
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly.
For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric”
(page 38).
↓
5 Start sewing.
Start sewing.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 39).
↓
6 Cut the thread.
Cut the thread at the end of sewing.
For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 43).
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
38
Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.
2
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
3
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
4
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the balance
wheel toward you with your right hand to
lower the needle to the starting point of the
stitching.
5
Lower the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
Memo
● To adjust the pressure that the presser foot
applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the
pressure of the presser foot” (page 30).
1
1
Sewing 39
2
Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the operation buttons or the foot
controller.
■ Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button (start/stop button).
1
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1 Sewing speed controller
2
Press (start/stop button) once.
1 Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
• If you continue to hold the start/stop button
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
the machine will sew at a slow speed.
3
When the end of the stitching is reached,
press (start/stop button) once.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
4
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 43).
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
1
Turn off the sewing machine.
When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
2
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
the side of the sewing machine.
1 Foot controller jack
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NX-200/PC-210.
1
1
1
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
40
3
Turn on the sewing machine.
4
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1 Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
5
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
6
When the end of the stitching is reached,
completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
7
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 43).
Memo
● If (needle stop position key) is lit, the
sewing machine will stop with the needle
lowered. If the key is not lit, the sewing
machine will stop with the needle raised.
The needle position setting selected with
the needle stop position key does not
change if the sewing machine is turned off.
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing.
1
Slower
Faster
●
Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
●
Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
●
If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot
controller, otherwise a fire or an electric
shock may occur.
CAUTION
Sewing 41
2
Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
1
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
2
Press (start/stop button) or press down
on the foot controller.
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
1 Start/stop button
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 39).
X The machine starts sewing.
3
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until you reach the beginning of the
stitching.
1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch
button is held pressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.
4
After sewing back to the beginning of the
stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement
stitch button.
X The machine stops sewing.
5
Press (start/stop button), or press down
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
6
When the end of the stitching is reached,
press (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
sewn.
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch
button is depressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.
1
1
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
42
7
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
release (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).
X The machine stops sewing.
8
Press (start/stop button), or press down
on the foot controller.
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
9
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
sewing machine stops.
Release the start/stop button or foot controller.
1 Beginning of stitching
2 End of stitching
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches
on top of each other.
1 Reverse stitching
2 Reinforcement stitching
Memo
● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 92).
1
2
5
6
4
3
1
2
1
2
Sewing 43
2
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.
1
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
sewing machine is stopped, press
(needle position button) once to raise the
needle.
1 Needle position button
• The needle is raised.
2
Raise the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
3
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
1 Thread cutter
1
1
1
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
44
Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are
equal.
Changing the tension of the
upper thread
If the thread and needle combination is correct for
the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle
types and their uses” on page 26), the thread tension
will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate
setting. However, if the preset thread tension does
not give the desired result or if you are sewing with
special thread or on special fabric, use the thread
tension dial under the upper cover to adjust the
tension of the upper thread.
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
the upper thread.
■ Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
the upper thread.
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
5
5
1
2
3
4
Adjusting the Thread Tension / Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 45
2
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is
selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within
which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 92).
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys.
1
Press the stitch width adjustment button in
the operation panel.
X The stitch width adjustment button lights up.
2
Slide the stitch width adjustment slider up and
down.
Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider up
makes the stitch width wider; sliding the slider
down makes the stitch width narrower.
1 Stitch width adjustment slider
2 Stitch width adjustment button
■ Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment
slider up moves the needle to the right; sliding the
slider down moves the needle to the left.
• To automatically select the stitch width most
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the
stitch width adjustment button again.
1
2
●
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
46
Adjusting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow
keys.
1
Press the stitch length adjustment button in
the operation panel.
X The stitch length adjustment button lights up.
2
Slide the stitch length adjustment slider up
and down.
Sliding the stitch length adjustment slider up
makes the stitching coarser; sliding the slider
down makes the stitching finer.
1 Stitch length adjustment slider
2 Stitch length adjustment button
3 Straight stitch
4 Zigzag stitch
• To automatically select the stitch length most
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the
stitch length adjustment button again.
●
If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
1
34
2
CAUTION
Useful Functions 47
2
Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Changing the needle
stop position
The sewing machine can be set to leave the needle
in the fabric (lowered needle stop position) or leave
the needle raised (raised needle stop position) when
sewing is stopped.
Press (needle stop position key) in the operation
panel to switch between the two settings.
■ For the lowered needle stop position
(needle stop position key) is lit.
• When the sewing machine is purchased, it is
set to the lowered needle stop position.
■ For the raised needle stop position
(needle stop position key) is not lit.
Memo
● The needle stop position setting does not
change if the sewing machine is turned off.
Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning
and end of the stitching.
Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches
are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For
details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 92).
1
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 54).
2
Press (automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitch key) in the operation panel.
This step is not necessary if a stitch, such as
those for sewing buttonholes, is selected where
reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.
1 Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
X The automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch
key lights up.
• To cancel automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching, press the automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitch key again.
1
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
48
3
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
then press (start/stop button) once.
1 Start/stop button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
4
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
Memo
● Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be
sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the
end of the stitching. Be sure to press the
reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the
end of the stitching.
1
1
Useful Sewing Tips 49
2
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing
direction
1
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine
stopped sewing, press (needle position
button) to lower the needle.
2
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
3
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
“Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 51).
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
50
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
1 Sewing direction
1
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.
2
Press the black button on the left side of the
foot. Keep the button held in and lower the
presser foot.
3
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
feed.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
1
●
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
CAUTION
Useful Sewing Tips 51
2
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.
1 Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
1 Basting
Sewing an even seam
allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1 Seam
2 Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
1 Seam
2 Presser foot
3 Centimeters
4 Inches
5 Needle plate
6 16 mm (5/8 inch)
1
1
1
2
6
1
2
5
4
3
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
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52
3 UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Selecting Stitching...................................................................................................54
Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................56
Basic Stitching.........................................................................................................60
Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................61
Buttonhole Stitching................................................................................................63
Zipper Insertion ......................................................................................................70
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape..................................................................74
Applique, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ................................................................76
Reinforcement Stitching ..........................................................................................82
Eyelet Stitching........................................................................................................84
Decorative Stitching................................................................................................85
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
54
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Selecting stitching
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch ( left needle position) is selected.
A letter (A, G, J, M, N or R) indicating the presser foot
that should be used appears to the right of the stitch
number.
1
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
2
Determine which presser foot should be used
with the selected stitch.
The presser feet are stored in the accessory
compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 92).
3
Attach the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
4
Turn on the sewing machine.
X When the machine is first turned on, “00”
will be displayed.
5
Press (stitch selection key). The
number of the selected stitch is displayed.
Each press of increases the number by
one. After “9” (“4” for the number on the left) is
reached, the number returns to “0”. Pressing
on the right changes the second digit
(ones) and pressing on the left changes
the first digit (tens).
X The stitch is selected.
6
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, refer to the following pages.
■ [Example] Selecting stitch .
1
Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch
04.
With on the right, select “4”, and with
on the left, select “0”.
Selecting Stitching 55
3
2
To adjust the stitch width, slide the stitch
width adjustment slider up or down.
Press the stitch width adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch width adjustment slider to
adjust the stitch width.
1 Stitch width adjustment slider
2 Stitch width adjustment button
3 Wide
4 Narrow
3
To adjust the stitch length, slide the stitch
length adjustment slider up or down.
Press the stitch length adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch length adjustment slider to
adjust the stitch length.
1 Stitch length adjustment slider
2 Stitch length adjustment button
3 Long
4 Short
Memo
● For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 45).
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
56
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Seven stitches are available for
overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Two stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
1
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
3
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1 Guide
4
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
1 Needle drop point
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Overcasting
stitch
Preventing fraying in medium
weight and thin fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
G
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics
and fabrics that fray easily
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
G
1
●
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
CAUTION
Overcasting Stitches 57
3
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
3
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
1 Needle drop point
1 Needle drop point
Memo
● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot” (page 30).
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
Preventing fraying (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
3-point
zigzag stitch
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics
and stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
Preventing fraying in stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
J
1
1
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
58
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. The following four
stitches can be used to sew overcasting.
When the side cutter is attached, be sure to use the settings in the ranges listed below.
1
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Lower the presser foot lever, and then
manually thread the needle.
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
needle threader is used with the side cutter,
the sewing machine may be damaged.
3
Raise the presser foot lever.
4
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
onto the needle clamp screw.
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
5
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
1 Notch in presser foot holder
2 Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Overcasting
stitch
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
S
Preventing fraying in thin and
mediumweight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1
2
1
2
Overcasting Stitches 59
3
6
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
side cutter is securely attached.
7
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
8
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
9
Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
1 2 cm (1/16 inch)
0
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
1 Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
a
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
sewing.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Memo
● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
● After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
● The optional side cutter is available through
your brother retailer.
●
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
1
1
1
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
60
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Basic stitching
1
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
3
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching.
5
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 39).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 41).
6
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 43).
■ Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider
up moves the needle to the right; sliding the slider
down moves the needle to the left.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight
stitch (left
needle
position)
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/
reverse stitching)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
J
Straight
stitch
(center
needle
position)
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
––
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Triple
stretch
stitch
Reinforcing seams and sewing
stretch fabrics
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
Blind Hem Stitching 61
3
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
1
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Desired edge of hem
4 5 mm (3/16 inch)
2
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
then position the fabric with the wrong side
facing up.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting
3
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
4
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
5
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Fold of hem
3 Guide
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Blind hem
stitch
Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics
0.0
(0)
+3 – – 3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
R
Blind hem stitching on stretch
fabrics
2
1
3
4
2
1
R
R
1
2
3
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
62
6
Adjust the stitch width until the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
1 Needle drop point
2 Wider stitch
3 Narrower stitch
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold, move the stitch width adjustment lever
down. This makes the stitch narrower to
move the needle away from the fold.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle does not catch enough of the
hem fold, move the stitch width adjustment
lever up. This makes the stitch wider to move
the needle closer onto the fold.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and
Length” (page 45).
7
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
8
Remove the basting stitching.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
Memo
● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot” (page 30).
R
1
1
23
2
3
1
2
1
2
1
2
Buttonhole Stitching 63
3
Buttonhole Stitching
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Five stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Buttonhole
stitch
Horizontal buttonholes on thin
and mediumweight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
A
Buttonholes with bar tacks on
both ends for stabilized fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Buttonholes for stretch or knit
fabrics
6.0
(15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.0
(1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
6.0
(15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.5
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
plush fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Button-
sewing stitch
Button sewing
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
M
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
64
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
1 Button guide plate
2 Presser foot scale
3 Pin
4 Marks on buttonhole foot
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
1
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
and length of the buttonhole.
1 Marks on fabric
2
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
1
1
1
1 Reinforcement stitching
A
1
2
5
3
4
1
Buttonhole Stitching 65
3
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.
1 10 mm (3/8 inch)
2 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
3
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
4
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
5
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1 Mark on fabric
2 Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
6
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
7
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
8
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and then cut the threads.
1
3
2
1
2
A
1
2
1
1
1
2
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
66
9
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
0
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
1 Pin
a
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin
and open the buttonhole.
1 Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
1 Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
■ Changing the density of the stitching
Press the stitch length adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch length adjustment slider
to adjust the stitch length.
1 Stitch length adjustment slider
2 Stitch length adjustment button
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 46).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.
■ Changing the stitch width
Press the stitch width adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch width adjustment slider
to adjust the stitch width.
1 Stitch width adjustment slider
2 Stitch width adjustment button
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 45).
Memo
● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
●
When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
1
1
1
CAUTION
1
2
1
2
Buttonhole Stitching 67
3
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
1
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.
2
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
3
Select stitch or .
4
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
5
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
6
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
7
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
8
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
1
Measure the distance between the holes in the
button to be attached.
2
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
machine on the base, to (to the right as
seen from the front of the machine).
1 Drop feed lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
2 Back side
X The feed dogs are lowered.
3
Attach button-sewing foot “M”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
1
2
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
68
4
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.
1 Button
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
5
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
6
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
the distance between the holes in the button.
7
Set the stitch length adjustment slider to the
shortest stitch length setting.
8
Turn the balance wheel toward you to check
that the needle correctly goes into the two
holes of the button.
9
Start sewing.
• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement
stitch button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
0
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
a
When you are finished attaching the button,
slide the drop feed lever to (to the left as
seen from the front of the machine) to raise
the feed dogs.
1 Back side
1
●
When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
1
Buttonhole Stitching 69
3
■ Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.
1
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,
and then pull the shank lever toward you.
1 Shank lever
2
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
with plenty of excess, wind it around the
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching at
the wrong side of the fabric.
3
Cut off any excess thread.
1
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
70
Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper
are described below.
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.
1 Right side of fabric
2 Stitching
3 End of zipper opening
1
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
stitches up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 60).
2
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening
3
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
4
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
and then baste the zipper in place.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Zipper
5
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight
stitch (center
needle
position)
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed seams and
pintucks
––
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
I
2
1
3
1
2
4
3
1
1
2
3
I
1
2
Zipper Insertion 71
3
6
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
7
Topstitch around the zipper.
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 Basting stitching
4 End of zipper opening
8
Remove the basting stitching.
Inserting a side zipper
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use
this type of zipper for side openings and back
openings.
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
stitches up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 60).
2
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening
3
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
●
When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.
●
When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
1
3
2
4
CAUTION
1
3
2
1
2
4
3
1
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
72
4
Press the seam allowance so that the right side
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 3 mm (1/8 inch)
5
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge
of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
1 Zipper teeth
2 Basting stitching
6
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
7
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
8
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.
9
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
1
2
1
2
I
1
2
●
When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.
●
When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
CAUTION
Zipper Insertion 73
3
0
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and
then baste the other side of the zipper to the
fabric.
1 Basting stitching
a
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
of zipper foot “I”.
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step
6
, change it to the left pin.
1 Pin on the left side
2 Needle drop point
b
Topstitch around the zipper.
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the
side of the presser foot.
1 Right side of fabric
2 End of zipper opening
3 Reverse stitches
4 Beginning of stitching
5 Basting stitching
c
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and
then raise the presser foot lever.
d
Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,
and then continue sewing.
1
I
2
1
2
1
3
4
5
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
74
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
3
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
1
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
1 Elastic tape
2 Pin
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Stretch
stitch
Stretch fabrics
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
3-point
zigzag stitch
Attaching elastic
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
J
1
2
J
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 75
3
3
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
●
When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
76
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
Attaching appliqués (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
Appliqué quilting, free-motion
quilting, satin stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
Attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Piecing
straight
stitch
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the
right edge of the presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the
left edge of the presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Joining
stitch
Patchwork stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Mock hand
quilting
stitch
Straight stitch quilting that looks
hand quilting
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stippling
Stippling
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 77
3
Appliqué stitching
1
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
allowance of between 3 and 5 mm
(1/8 and 3/16 inch).
1 Seam allowance
2
Place a pattern made of thick paper on the
back of the appliqué, and then fold over the
seam allowance using an iron.
• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.
3
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
1 Basting stitching
4
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
5
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
6
Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then
begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué,
making sure that the needle drops just outside
of the appliqué.
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
1
1
J
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
78
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
1
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
place it over the lower piece.
2
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans over both pieces.
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
1
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
3
Select stitch or .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
J
1
1
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 79
3
Memo
● To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
1
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
2
Attach the walking foot.
• For details, refer to “Using the optional
walking foot” (page 31).
3
Select stitch or .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and then evenly stretch the fabric while
sewing.
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
● The optional walking foot is available
through your brother retailer.
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
80
■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
1
Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at
the rear of the walking foot or presser foot
holder.
Walking foot
Presser foot holder
2
Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt
guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
Note
● The optional quilting guide is available
through your brother retailer.
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric
can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
1
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 31).
2
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
of the presser bar.
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
3
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
1 Pin on quilting foot
2 Presser foot holder screw
3 Needle clamp screw
●
Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
1
2
3
CAUTION
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 81
3
4
Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear
of the machine on the base, to (to the
right as seen from the front of the machine).
1 Feed dog position switch
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
2 Back side
X The feed dogs are lowered.
5
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
6
Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and
then move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
1 Pattern
7
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
lever to (to the left as seen from the
front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.
1 Back side
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned
at the left.
Note
● The optional quilting foot is available
through your brother retailer.
1
2
1
1
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
82
Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
3
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 39).
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
1
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of bar tack
3 5 mm (1/8 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1–1/8 inch) can be sewn.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Triple
stretch
stitch
Reinforcing the seams of sleeves
and inseams
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
Bar tack
stitch
Reinforcing the ends of openings,
such as the corners of pockets
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
A
J
1
2
3
Reinforcement Stitching 83
3
2
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
3
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.
1 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
5
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
6
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
7
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and cut the threads.
8
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
stitch length” (page 46).
1
1
1
1
2
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
84
Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4,
15/64 and 3/16 inch).
1
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
3
Adjust the stitch width to select the desired
eyelet size.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch
Width and Length” (page 45).
4
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
5
Start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
6
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the
center of the eyelet.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
Memo
● If thin thread is used, the stitching may be
coarse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice
before removing the fabric, one on top of
the other.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Eyelet stitch
Sewing eyelets, for example, on
belts
7.0
(1/4)
7.0, 6.0 or
5.0 (1/4,
15/64 or
3/16)
––
N
7 mm
(1/4 inch)
6 mm
(15/64 inch)
5 mm
(3/16 inch)
Decorative Stitching 85
3
Decorative Stitching
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Fagoting
stitch
Sewing two pieces of fabric
together across an open seam
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/25–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Joining
stitch
Decorative bridging stitches
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Smocking
stitch
Smocking fabrics to add texture
and elasticity
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Scallop
stitch
Satin scallop stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
N
Decorative
stitch
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming and
heirloom stitching, etc. on thin,
mediumweight and plain weave
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Decorative
stitch
Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
N
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
86
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
1
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
2
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
1 Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
2 Basting stitching
3 4 mm (3/16 inch)
3
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
4
Select stitch or .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
5
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 45).
6
Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.
7
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
1
2
3
J
Decorative Stitching 87
3
Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.
1
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
3
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
4
Trim along the stitches.
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 46) and “Changing the tension
of the upper thread” (page 44).
3
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
(3/8 inch).
1 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• It is not necessary to sew reverse/
reinforcement stitches.
4
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
J
1
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
88
5
Select stitch or .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
6
Stitch between the straight stitches.
7
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
2
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
allowances.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
3 Straight stitch
3
Select stitch , or .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
Turn the fabric over so that the right side
faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
1 Right side of fabric
J
1
1
2
3
1
Decorative Stitching 89
3
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or mediumweight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
1
Install the wing needle.
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 28).
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back.
2
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
3
Select a stitch.
The stitches that can be used are ,
, , or .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less.
4
Start sewing.
Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.
This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a
loose weave.
Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
■ Drawnwork (Example 1)
The fabric is turned and sewn twice.
1
Pull out several threads from the fabric.
2
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
●
Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64
inch) or less, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
●
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
90
3
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
along the right edge of the frayed section.
5
Turn the fabric around to sew the opposite
side.
6
Sew along the other edge of the frayed section
so that it looks like the previous stitching.
■ Drawnwork (Example 2)
1
Pull out several threads from two sections of
the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of
about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
1 4 mm (3/16 inch)
2
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 29).
3
Select stitch .
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 54).
4
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
N
N
1
N
4 APPENDIX
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this
chapter.
Stitch Settings..........................................................................................................92
Maintenance ...........................................................................................................96
Troubleshooting ......................................................................................................98
Index .....................................................................................................................103
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
92
Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in
the following table.
Utility stitches
Stitch Name Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Side cutter
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight
stitch
Left
J
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reverse No Yes
Center
J/I
Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, sewing gath-
ers or pintucks, etc.
––
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes Reverse No No
Triple stretch
stitch
J
Attaching sleeves, sew-
ing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and dec-
orative stitching
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Stretch stitch J
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Zigzag stitch J
Overcasting and attach-
ing appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes Reverse No No
3-point zigzag
stitch
J
Overcasting on medi-
umweight or stretch
fabrics, attaching elas-
tic, darning, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Overcasting
stitch
G
Overcasting on thin or
mediumweight fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No Yes
G
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No Yes
J
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Blind hem stitch
R
Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics
0.0
(0)
+3– –3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
R
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
0.0
(0)
+3– –3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Appliqué stitch J Appliqué stitching
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Satin scallop
stitch
N Scallop stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Stitch Settings 93
4
Joining stitch
J
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
J
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and
sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabric,
such as with tricot
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
J
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Fagoting stitch
J
Fagoting and decora-
tive stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
J
Fagoting and decora-
tive stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Decorative
stitch
J Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
J Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N
Decorative stitching
and elastic-attaching
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N
Lace sewing, decora-
tive hemming, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N
Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Stitch Name Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Side cutter
Auto Manual Auto Manual
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
94
Buttonhole
stitch
A
Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium-
weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
No No
A
Secured buttonholes for
fabrics that have back-
ings
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
No No
A
Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics
6.0
(15/54)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.0
(1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
No No
A
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
(15/54)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.5
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
No
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
No No
A
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
No No
Bar tack stitch A
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes
loose
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
No No
Eyelet stitch N
Sewing eyelets, for
example, on belts
7.0
(1/4)
7.0, 6.0,
5.0 (1/4,
15/64,
3/16)
––No
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
No No
Piecing straight
stitch
J
Piecing straight stitch-
ing (with a seam allow-
ance of 6.5 mm from
the right edge of the
presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
J
Piecing straight stitch-
ing (with a seam allow-
ance of 6.5 mm from
the left edge of the
presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
Yes No
Straight stitch
that looks hand-
sewn (for quilt-
ing)
J
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
J
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
Yes Yes
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
J
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
J
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Quilting stitch
(for stippling)
J
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Cross-stitches
N For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Stitch Name Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Side cutter
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Stitch Settings 95
4
Decorative
stitches
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Satin stitches
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Reinforce-
ment
No No
Stitch Name Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Side cutter
Auto Manual Auto Manual
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
96
Maintenance
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Cleaning the machine
surface
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.
Cleaning the shuttle
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
shuttle; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.
1
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
and then slide it toward you.
1 Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
●
Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries
or an electric shock may occur.
CAUTION
●
Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries
or an electric shock may occur.
CAUTION
1
Maintenance 97
4
3
Turn the balance wheel toward you until the
tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of
the race shelf.
1 Shuttle race
2 Shuttle
3 Edge of the shuttle race
4 Tip of the shuttle hook
• Be sure to turn the balance wheel toward
you. Turning the balance wheel away from
you may damage the machine.
4
Remove the shuttle.
Grasp the shuttle, and then pull it out.
1 Shuttle
5
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any lint and dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
1 Cleaning brush
2 Shuttle race
• Do not apply oil to the shuttle.
6
Check that the edge of the race shelf is
positioned as in step
3
, and then insert the
shuttle so that the projection on the shuttle
aligns with the spring.
1 Projection
2 Spring
7
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
on.
3
1
2
4
1
1
2
●
Never use a shuttle that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new
shuttle (part code: XC3153-051), contact
your nearest authorized service center.
●
Be sure that the shuttle is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may
break.
1
2
2
1
CAUTION
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
98
Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
If the problem persists, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
The sewing
machine does
not operate.
The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 11
The start/stop button was not
pressed.
Press the start/stop button. page 39
The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever.
–
The start/stop button was pressed,
even though the foot controller is
connected.
Do not use the start/stop button
when the foot controller is con-
nected. To use the start/stop button,
disconnect the foot controller.
page 39
The needle
breaks.
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
page 28The needle clamp screw is loose.
Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten
the screw.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 26
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
priate for the type of stitch that you
wish to sew.
page 92
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 44
The fabric is pulled too much. Lightly guide the fabric.
–
The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 18
The area around the hole in the nee-
dle plate is scratched, or has a burr
on it.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
page 12
Troubleshooting 99
4
The upper
thread breaks.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the nee-
dle bar thread hook).
Correct the upper threading. page 18
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles.
–
The selected needle is not appropri-
ate for the thread being used.
Select a needle that is appropriate
for the type of stitch being used.
page 26
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 44
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the shuttle.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
the shuttle.
page 96
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
page 27
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
The area around the hole in the nee-
dle plate is scratched, or has a burr
on it.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
page 12
The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 16
The bobbin is scratched or does not
rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin.
–
The thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the shuttle.
page 96
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
page 12
The thread ten-
sion is incorrect.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 18
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 16
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 26
The presser foot holder is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the presser foot
holder.
page 31
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 44
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
page 12
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
100
The fabric is
wrinkled.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly, or the bobbin is incor-
rectly installed.
Correctly thread the upper thread
and correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 16, 18
The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 18
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 26
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 27
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too coarse.
Shorten the stitch length or sew with
stabilizer material under the fabric
page 46
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 44
Stitches are
skipped.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 18
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 26
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 27
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 28
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the shuttle.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the shuttle.
page 96
A high-pitched
noise is made
while sewing.
Dust has accumulated in the feed
dogs or in the shuttle.
Clean the shuttle. page 96
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 18
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
page 12
The needle
threader cannot
be used.
The needle was not raised.
Press the needle position button to
raise the needle.
page 21
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 28
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
priate for the type of stitch that you
wish to sew.
page 92
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 44
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the shuttle.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
the shuttle.
page 96
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
Troubleshooting 101
4
Error messages
If the start/stop button is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed
incorrectly, an error message appears in the stitch indicator. Follow the instructions that appear.
If you press
(Stitch selection key)
or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
The fabric does
not feed.
The feed dogs are lowered. Slide the drop feed lever to the left. page 67, 81
The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 46
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
priate for the type of stitch that you
wish to sew.
page 92
The pressure of the presser foot is
weak.
Turn the presser foot pressure dial to
the right to increase the pressure of
the presser foot.
page 30
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the shuttle.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
the shuttle.
page 96
The sewing lamp
does not come on.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
Error Message Probable Cause
The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch but-
ton was pressed while the presser foot was raised.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch was
selected and the start/stop button was pressed while the
buttonhole lever is lowered.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the
start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever
is raised.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle posi-
tion button was pressed while the bobbin winder shift is
moved to the right.
The start/stop button was pressed while the foot control-
ler was connected.
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
102
Operation beep
Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed, a beep is sounded.
■ For a correct operation
One beep is sounded.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed
Two or four beeps are sounded.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because
the thread is tangled
The sewing machine continues to beep for four
seconds. The machine automatically stops.
Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and
correct it before continuing to sew.
Removing the upper cover
If the upper cover of the sewing machine was
removed, re-attach it as described in the following
procedure.
1
Hold the upper cover level.
2
Push the upper cover down to re-attach it to
the machine.
Index 103
4
Index
Numerics
3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................57
A
accessories ........................................................... Cover A
adjustable zipper/piping foot ...........................................1
air vent ................................................................. Cover C
appliques ......................................................................77
automatic reinforcement stitching .................................47
automatic reverse stitching ............................................47
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key ............Cover E
B
balance wheel ................................................ Cover C, 38
bar tack .........................................................................82
basic stitching ...............................................................60
blind hem stitch ............................................................61
blind stitch foot .................................................... Cover A
bobbin ........................................................... Cover A, 16
bobbin cover .................................................. Cover C, 16
bobbin thread ................................................................16
pulling up ...............................................................25
bobbin winder ................................................ Cover B, 13
bobbin winder seat ........................................................14
bobbin winder shaft spring ............................................13
bobbin-winding .............................................................12
button fitting foot .................................................. Cover A
button sewing ................................................................67
buttonhole foot ............................................... Cover A, 64
buttonhole lever ....................................... Cover C, 65, 83
buttonhole stitching .......................................................63
C
changing sewing direction .............................................49
changing the needle ......................................................28
cleaning ........................................................................96
cleaning brush ................................................ Cover A, 97
crazy quilt stitching .......................................................78
cross-wound thread .......................................................13
curves ...........................................................................49
cylindrical pieces ..........................................................33
E
elastic tape ....................................................................74
electrical outlet .............................................................11
error messages .............................................................101
even seam allowance ....................................................51
extra spool pin ..............................................................23
eyelet ............................................................................84
eyelet punch ............................................ Cover A, 66, 84
F
fagoting .........................................................................86
features ...........................................................................2
feed dog position switch ................................. Cover C, 81
feed dogs ........................................................ Cover C, 80
foot controller ................................................ Cover A, 39
foot controller jack ............................................... Cover C
free-arm sewing .............................................................33
free-motion quilting .......................................................80
front view ............................................................. Cover B
H
handle .................................................................. Cover C
hard case .............................................................. Cover A
heirloom stitching .........................................................89
J
joining ...........................................................................88
joining stitch .................................................................76
L
lower threading .............................................................16
M
main power switch ......................................... Cover C, 11
maintenance .................................................................96
monogramming foot ............................................. Cover A
N
needle ...........................................................................26
needle bar thread hook .................................. Cover C, 20
needle clamp screw ......................................................28
needle plate ................................................... Cover C, 51
needle plate cover .........................................................96
needle position ..............................................................60
needle position button ..........................................Cover D
needle set ............................................................. Cover A
needle stop position key ........................................Cover E
needle threader lever ...................................... Cover B, 21
non stick foot ..................................................................1
O
open toe foot ...................................................................1
openings .......................................................................82
operation beep ............................................................102
operation buttons .................................. Cover B, Cover D
operation manual ................................................. Cover A
operation panel .................................................... Cover B
optional accessories ........................................................1
overcasting foot .................................................... Cover A
overcasting stitches .......................................................56
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
104
P
patchwork stitching .......................................................78
piecing ..........................................................................78
pocket corners ...............................................................82
positioning fabric ..........................................................38
presser foot ..................................................... Cover C, 29
presser foot dial .............................................. Cover C, 30
presser foot holder .......................................... Cover C, 31
presser foot lever ..................................................Cover D
presser foot pressure ......................................................30
Q
quick reference guide ........................................... Cover A
quilting ..........................................................................79
quilting foot ...............................................................1, 80
quilting guide ......................................................1, 79, 80
R
rear view .............................................................. Cover C
reinforcement stitching ............................................41, 82
reverse/reinforcement stitch button .......................Cover D
S
scallop stitching ............................................................87
screwdriver .................................................... Cover A, 28
seam ripper .................................................... Cover A, 66
selecting stitching ..........................................................54
sewing machine needles ...............................................26
sewing speed .................................................................39
sewing speed controller ......................... Cover B, Cover D
shutter ...........................................................................20
shuttle .....................................................................16, 96
shuttle hook ..................................................................97
side cutter .................................................................1, 58
side view .............................................................. Cover C
sleeves .......................................................................... 82
smocking .......................................................................87
spool cap ................................................. Cover A, 13, 19
spool net ........................................................ Cover A, 24
spool pin .................................................. Cover B, 13, 19
start/stop button ..............................................Cover D, 39
starting sewing ..............................................................39
stitch guide foot ...............................................................1
stitch indicator ......................................................Cover E
stitch length ...................................................................46
stitch length adjustment button ..............................Cover E
stitch length adjustment slider ...............................Cover E
stitch settings .................................................................92
stitch width ...................................................................45
stitch width adjustment button ..............................Cover E
stitch width adjustment slider ................................Cover E
stitches ..................................................................Cover E
straight stitch .................................................................60
stretch fabrics ................................................................51
T
thick fabrics ...................................................................50
thin fabrics ....................................................................51
thread cutter ......................................................... Cover B
thread guide cover ................................... Cover B, 14, 20
thread guide discs .......................................... Cover C, 21
thread guide for bobbin winding .................... Cover B, 14
thread guide plate .................................... Cover B, 14, 20
thread tension ...............................................................44
thread tension dial .......................................... Cover B, 44
thread that quickly unwinds ..........................................24
trial sewing ....................................................................49
triple stretch stitch .........................................................82
troubleshooting .............................................................98
twin needle .............................................. Cover A, 22, 28
U
upper cover .............................................. Cover B, 13, 19
upper thread ..................................................................18
upper thread tension .....................................................44
W
walking foot ........................................................1, 31, 79
wide table .................................................................1, 33
wing needle ..................................................................89
Z
zigzag foot ........................................................... Cover A
zipper foot ............................................................ Cover A
zipper stitching ..............................................................70
English
885-S60
XE1140-001
Printed in China
F0_BrotherE_cover
DIC181p
K
