Operation Manual
Computerized Sewing Machine
Product Code: 888-V14
GETTING READY
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
APPENDIX
Be sure to read this document before using the machine.
We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or in-
jury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned
in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing
machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could
cause injuries.
When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,
otherwise you may injure your back or knees.
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4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of
children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of
suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
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8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
This machine is intended for household use.
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children)
with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of
experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or
instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for
their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not
play with the appliance.
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above
and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or
lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision
or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and
understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the
appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by
children without supervision.
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
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Contents
Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................8
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................8
Accessories..........................................................................................................................9
Included accessories .........................................................................................................................................9
Optional accessories.......................................................................................................................................10
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...................................................................11
Machine..........................................................................................................................................................11
Needle and presser foot section ......................................................................................................................12
Operation buttons ...........................................................................................................................................12
Operation panel..............................................................................................................................................13
GETTING READY 15
Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................16
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
Turning off the machine ..................................................................................................................................17
Understanding the LCD Screens........................................................................................18
Changing the Machine Settings .........................................................................................19
Changing the settings ......................................................................................................................................19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................22
Bobbin precautions .........................................................................................................................................22
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................22
Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................26
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread .............................................................................................................................28
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ................................................................ 33
Using the twin needle .....................................................................................................................................33
Pulling up the bobbin thread...........................................................................................................................36
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................37
Needle precautions.........................................................................................................................................37
Needle types and their uses.............................................................................................................................38
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 39
Replacing the needle.......................................................................................................................................39
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................41
Presser foot precautions ..................................................................................................................................41
Replacing the presser foot ...............................................................................................................................41
Removing the presser foot holder ....................................................................................................................43
Using the optional walking foot ......................................................................................................................44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces....................................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces.............................................................................................................................. 46
Sewing large pieces of fabric...........................................................................................................................46
SEWING BASICS 49
Sewing...............................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 50
Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................51
Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................52
Securing the stitching ......................................................................................................................................54
Cutting the thread ...........................................................................................................................................56
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Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................57
Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch length ...............................................................................................................................59
Useful Functions................................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position ..................................................................................................................60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches................................................................................................ 60
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................62
Trial sewing ....................................................................................................................................................62
Changing the sewing direction................................................................................................................................. 62
Sewing curves .................................................................................................................................................62
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................62
Sewing thin fabrics..........................................................................................................................................63
Sewing stretch fabrics......................................................................................................................................63
Sewing an even seam allowance..................................................................................................................... 64
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener .......................................................................................................................64
UTILITY STITCHES 65
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................66
Selecting stitch types and patterns................................................................................................................... 66
Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................67
Overcasting Stitches..........................................................................................................71
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ...................................................................................71
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”............................................................................................. 72
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ...............................................................................73
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................75
Basic stitching .................................................................................................................................................75
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................77
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing..................................................................................79
Buttonhole sewing ..........................................................................................................................................80
Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................84
Zipper Insertion.................................................................................................................86
Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................86
Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................88
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................91
Stretch stitching...............................................................................................................................................91
Elastic attaching ..............................................................................................................................................91
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................93
Appliqué stitching ...........................................................................................................................................94
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching .....................................................................................................................95
Piecing............................................................................................................................................................95
Quilting ..........................................................................................................................................................96
Free-motion quilting........................................................................................................................................97
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller.............................................................................................98
Reinforcement Stitching ..................................................................................................100
Triple stretch stitching ...................................................................................................................................100
Bar tack stitching...........................................................................................................................................100
Eyelet Stitching................................................................................................................102
Decorative Stitching........................................................................................................103
Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................104
Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................105
Smocking......................................................................................................................................................105
Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................106
Joining ..........................................................................................................................................................107
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................107
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns.............................................................110
Sewing beautiful patterns ..............................................................................................................................110
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Sewing patterns.............................................................................................................................................110
Combining patterns.......................................................................................................................................111
Repeat sewing patterns.................................................................................................................................. 112
Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 112
Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 113
Saving patterns..............................................................................................................................................114
Retrieving a pattern .......................................................................................................................................115
Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................116
APPENDIX 119
Stitch Settings..................................................................................................................120
Utility stitches ...............................................................................................................................................120
Other stitches................................................................................................................................................124
Care and Maintenance ....................................................................................................126
Restrictions on oiling.....................................................................................................................................126
Cleaning the machine surface ................................................................................................................................ 126
Cleaning the race ..........................................................................................................................................126
Removing the needle plate............................................................................................................................127
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................128
Frequent troubleshooting topics ....................................................................................................................128
Upper thread tightened up ..................................................................................................................................... 128
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .........................................................................................................129
Incorrect thread tension ................................................................................................................................ 131
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed...............................................................................132
When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat ................................................................... 135
List of symptoms ...........................................................................................................................................137
Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................142
Nothing appears in the LCD..........................................................................................................................144
Operation beep.............................................................................................................................................144
Cancelling the operation beep ............................................................................................................................... 144
Index ................................................................................................................................146
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the
“Important Safety Instructions” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the
various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be
accessed for future reference.
Sewing Machine Features
a Easy upper threading
Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation (page 28).
b One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 26).
c Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 22).
d Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches.
Accessories 9
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Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or
damaged, contact your dealer.
Included accessories
The following items should also be included in the box.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the machine with
product code 888-V14. The product code is mentioned
on the machine rating plate.
z The screw for the presser foot holder is available
through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: 132730-122)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.
27.
28.
29. * 75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point
needle (gold colored)
No. Part Name
Part Code
No. Part Name
Part Code
Americas
Others
Americas
Others
1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 16 Spool cap (large) 130012-024
2 Overcasting foot “G” XE6305-101 17 Spool cap (medium) XE1372-001
3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 18 Spool cap (small) 130013-124
4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 19 Extra spool pin XE2241-001
5
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
XZ5134-001 20 Spool net XA5523-020
6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001
21 Foot controller
XD0501-121 (EU area)
7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2643-001 XC8816-071 (other areas)
8 Seam ripper XZ5082-001 22 Operation manual XE2408-301
9 Bobbin (4) SA156
SFB (XA5539-151)
23 Quick reference guide XE2416-001
10 Needle set X58358-021 24 Accessory bag XC4487-021
11 Twin needle X59296-121 25 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051
12 Cleaning brush X59476-021 26 Stitch pattern plate XE2441-001
13 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001 27
Stitch pattern plate holder
XE2238-001
14 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-021 28
Soft cover (NS85e) XC1103-022
Hard case (Others) XE2446-001
15 Screwdriver (small) X55468-021 29 Wide table (NS85e only) SA552
WT8 (XE2472-001)
NS85e
Others
NS85e only
10
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■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate
The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the
presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the stitch
pattern plate holder, and then attach the holder to the handle of the sewing machine as shown in the
illustration below.
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately.
Memo
z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact the nearest authorized dealership.
z All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without
notice.
z Visit your Brother dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.
1. 2. 3.*
* Included with machine
model NS85e.
4. 5. 6.
7.
8. 9.
10.
11.
No. Part Name
Part Code
No. Part Name
Part Code
Americas
Others
Americas
Others
1 Side cutter SA177
F054
(XC3879-152)
7 Non stick foot SA114
F007N
(XC1949-052)
2 Quilting guide SA132
F016N
(XC2215-052)
8 Open toe foot
SA186
F060
(XE1094-101)
3 Wide table SA552
WT8
(XE2472-001)
SA147
F027N
(XC1964-052)
4 Walking foot SA140
F033N
(XC2214-052)
9 Stitch guide foot “P” SA160
F035N
(XC1969-052)
5 Quilting foot SA129
F005N
(XC1948-052)
10 1/4 inch quilting foot SA125
F001N
(XC1944-052)
6 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161
F036N
(XC1970-052)
11
1/4 inch quilting foot with
guide
SA185
F057
(XC7416-252)
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 11
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before
using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Machine
a Bobbin winder (page 22)
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
b Spool pin (page 22, 28)
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
c Thread tension dial (page 57)
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
d Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disk (page
22)
Pass the thread around this thread guide and around the
pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.
e Thread take-up lever (page 30)
Slide the thread into the thread take-up lever from the
right side of slot to the left side of slot.
f Thread cutter (page 56)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
g Flatbed attachment (page 46)
Store presser feet and bobbins in the flatbed attachment.
Remove the flatbed attachment when sewing cylindrical
pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
h Operation buttons (page 12)
Use these buttons and the slider to start the sewing
machine and raise and lower the needle.
i Operation panel (page 13)
Use to select stitches and various other stitch settings.
j Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you to sew one stitch or to
raise or lower the needle.
k Main power switch (page 17)
Use this switch to turn the sewing machine on and off.
l Power supply jack (page 17)
Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply
jack.
m Foot controller jack (page 52)
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
n Feed dog position switch (page 85)
Use this switch to lower the feed dogs.
o Presser foot lever (page 28)
Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser
foot.
p Thread guide (page 24)
Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
q Thread guide cover (page 24)
Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
r Air vent
This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
circulate.
s Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
12
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Needle and presser foot section
a Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
b Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
c Presser foot holder
The presser foot is attached to the presser foot holder.
d Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot in place.
e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure to the fabric during
sewing. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the
selected stitch.
f Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case
and race.
g Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric.
h Quick lower threader
Begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
i Bobbin cover/race
Remove the bobbin cover to insert the bobbin into the
race.
j Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew
straight seams.
k Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
guide.
l Presser foot lever
Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser
foot.
m Needle clamp screw
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
a Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a low speed at the beginning of sewing
while the button is continuously pressed. When sewing
is stopped, the needle is lowered into the fabric. For
details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 52).
b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 54).
c Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
d Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to
adjust the sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to reduce
the sewing speed, or slide the speed controller to the
right to increase the sewing speed.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 13
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Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal
display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.
a LCD (liquid crystal display)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for
incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b
and f through n, described below, to display various
items and select the settings. For details, refer to
“Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 18).
b Settings key
Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for left/
right mirror imaging, or other settings such as the
operation beep.
c Needle position key
Press this key to raise or lower the needle.
d Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
Press this key to select the automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching setting. Press this key again to
cancel the setting.
e Needle mode selection key (single/twin)
Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting.
Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches
between single needle sewing and twin needle sewing.
f Stitch width keys
Press or to adjust the stitch width setting.
g Stitch length keys
Press or to adjust the stitch length setting.
■ Stitch mode keys (h-j)
h Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
Press this key to select the utility stitch assigned to a
numeric key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved.
Each time this key is pressed, the machine switches
between the preset utility stitch mode and the saved
pattern mode.
i Utility stitch key
Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch,
buttonhole, blind hem stitch, decorative stitch, satin
stitch, or cross-stitch. Use the numeric keys to type in
the number of the desired stitch.
j Character/utility decorative stitch key
Press this key to select character stitch mode or utility
decorative stitch mode, where patterns can be
combined. Each time this key is pressed, the machine
switches between utility decorative stitch mode and
character stitch mode.
k Memory key
Press this key to save stitch patterns, such as combined
patterns, in the sewing machine's memory.
l OK key
Press this key to apply the selection or perform the
operation.
m Cancel/clear key
Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the
previous screen.
In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern
added when combining characters or decorative
stitches.
n Numeric keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most
often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use
these keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.
1
2
3
4
C
D
B
6
7
8
9
@
A
5
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1 GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ..................................................................................16
Turning on the machine .....................................................................................17
Turning off the machine .....................................................................................17
Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................18
Changing the Machine Settings ...............................................................................19
Changing the settings .........................................................................................19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD...................................................................21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................22
Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................22
Winding the bobbin ...........................................................................................22
Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................26
Upper Threading .....................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread................................................................................28
Threading the needle..........................................................................................31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................33
Using the twin needle ........................................................................................33
Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................36
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................37
Needle precautions ............................................................................................37
Needle types and their uses................................................................................38
Checking the needle...........................................................................................39
Replacing the needle ..........................................................................................39
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................41
Presser foot precautions.....................................................................................41
Replacing the presser foot..................................................................................41
Removing the presser foot holder ......................................................................43
Using the optional walking foot .........................................................................44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces.................................................................................46
Sewing large pieces of fabric..............................................................................46
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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16
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
CAUTION
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
Turning the Machine On/Off 17
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Turning on the machine
Prepare the included power cord.
a
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and
then plug the power cord into the power
supply jack on the right side of the machine.
b
Insert the plug of the power cord into a
household electrical outlet.
a Main power switch
b Power cord
c
Press the right side of the main power switch
on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).
X The sewing light and the LCD come on
when the machine is turned on.
Memo
z When the machine is turned on, the needle
and the feed dogs will make sound when
they move; this is not a malfunction.
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
a
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
b
Press the left side of the main power switch on
the right side of the machine (set it to “ ”).
X The sewing light and the LCD go off when
the machine is turned off.
c
Unplug the power cord from the electrical
outlet.
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
cord.
d
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
jack.
Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power cord.
When restarting the sewing machine, follow
the necessary procedure to correctly operate
the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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18
Understanding the LCD Screens
The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the
selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly. The LCD displays the following
information.
a Presser foot that should be used
b Stitch mode
c Twin needle/needle stop position
d Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitches
e Selected stitch
f Stitch length (mm)
g Stitch width (mm)
Memo
z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error
messages” (page 142).
1
2
73
4
6
5
Changing the Machine Settings 19
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Changing the Machine Settings
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
Changing the settings
The general procedure for changing machine settings
is described below.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
c
Press or (Stitch length keys) until the
stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set
is displayed.
a Stitch length keys
d
Press or (Stitch width keys) until the
desired setting is selected.
X The setting is changed.
e
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
1
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20
■ List of stitch or machine attributes
The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the
corresponding reference page.
Memo
z The icon shown highlighted above is the default setting.
Attribute Icon Details Reference
Check pattern Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 112
Mirror imaging Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 113
Repeated/
single sewing
Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or
repeatedly.
page 112
Initial needle
position
Select the straight stitch that is automatically selected
when the machine is turned on.
-
Stitch width
control
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing
speed controller.
page 98
Buzzer
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each
operation.
page 144
LCD brightness Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 21
Vertical pattern
adjustment
Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 116
Changing the Machine Settings 21
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Adjusting the brightness of
the LCD
The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.
a
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel, and then press or (Stitch length
keys) until is displayed.
X The screen for changing the brightness of the
LCD appears.
b
To make the LCD brighter, press (Stitch
width key). To make the LCD darker, press
(Stitch width key).
X The brightness of the LCD is changed.
c
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
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22
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide
b Pretension disk
c Bobbin winder shaft
d Bobbin
Memo
z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this
sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
1
23
4
a Actual size
b This model
c Other model
d 11.5 mm (7/16 inch)
a
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23
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a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so
that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch
in the bobbin.
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into
place.
a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring
c
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right until
it snaps into place.
d
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
e
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unwinds correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
f
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the
right, as shown, with the rounded side on the
left.
CAUTION
a
b
a
b
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool or the
machine may be damaged.
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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24
Memo
z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,
use the small spool cap, and leave a small
space between the cap and the spool.
a Spool cap (small)
b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
thread, place the spool net over the spool
before placing the spool of thread onto the
spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the
size of the spool.
When the spool net is used, the tension of
the upper thread will slightly increase. Be
sure to check the thread tension. For details,
refer to “Adjusting the Thread Tension”
(page 57).
a Spool net
b Spool
c Spool cap
d Spool pin
g
While holding the spool with your right hand,
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread under the thread guide.
a Thread guide
h
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,
and then pass the thread under the thread guide
cover with your left hand.
a Thread guide cover
i
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and
then wind the thread counterclockwise
between the discs, pulling it in as far as
possible.
a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide
b Pretension disk
Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk.
j
While using your left hand to hold the thread
that was passed through the bobbin-winding
thread guide, use your right hand to wind the
end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin
five or six times.
a
c
b
2
1
4
3
1
a
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25
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k
Pass the end of the thread through the slit in
the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the
thread to the right to cut it.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
CAUTION
l
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(for a faster sewing speed).
a Sewing speed controller
m
Press (start/stop button) once.
When the foot controller is plugged in, press
down on the foot controller.
X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is
wound around the bobbin.
a start/stop button
n
When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press
(start/stop button) once to stop the
machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, remove
your foot from the foot controller.
CAUTION
o
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
to the left, and then remove the bobbin from
the shaft.
Memo
z If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right
side, the needle will not move. (Sewing is
impossible.)
p
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position.
Memo
z When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
sound; this is not a malfunction.
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit in
the bobbin winder seat, the bobbin may
not be wound correctly. In addition, the
thread may become tangled in the bobbin
or the needle may bend or break when
the bobbin thread starts to run out.
● When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
stop the machine, otherwise the sewing
machine may be damaged.
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26
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
CAUTION
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
a
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle, and then raise the
presser foot lever.
a Needle position button
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
a Bobbin cover
b Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
d
Remove the bobbin cover.
e
Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that
the end of the thread is on the left, and then,
after pulling the thread firmly around the tab
with your left hand as shown, lightly pull the
thread to guide it through the slit.
a Tab
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
●
The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not
operate correctly. Use only the included
bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part
code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
a Actual size
b This model
c Other model
d 11.5 mm (7/16 inch)
● Before installing the bobbin or replacing
the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing
machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
start/stop button is accidentally pressed
and the machine starts sewing.
1
23
4
ab
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27
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CAUTION
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
f
While lightly holding down bobbin with your
right hand as shown, guide the thread through
the slit (1 and 2).
• At this time, check that the bobbin easily
rotates counterclockwise.
Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with
the cutter (3).
a Slit
b Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)
X The cutter cuts the thread.
• Make sure that the thread is correctly passed
through the flat spring of the bobbin case. If it
is not inserted correctly, reinstall the thread.
a Flat spring
g
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover (A), and then lightly press down
on the right side (B).
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 28).
Memo
z You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up
the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 36).
● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the
thread unwinds in the correct direction,
otherwise the thread may break or the
thread tension will be incorrect.
1
AA
B
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28
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
CAUTION
Memo
z The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.
Threading the upper thread
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then
thread the machine.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
c
Turn on the sewing machine.
a Spool pin
b Mark on handwheel
● When threading the upper thread,
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled and the needle may
bend or break.
● The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
● Use appropriate thread and needle
combinations. For details on appropriate
needle and thread combinations, refer to
“Needle types and their uses” (page 38).
● Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or
thicker cannot be used with the needle
threader.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used,
refer to “Threading the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)”
(page 33).
● If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded.
a
Upper Threading 29
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d
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is at the correct height when the
mark on the handwheel is at the top, as
shown below. Check the handwheel and, if
this mark is not at this position, press
(needle position button) until it is.
a Mark on handwheel
e
Turn off the sewing machine.
f
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
g
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
CAUTION
h
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the
right, as shown, with the rounded side on the
left.
CAUTION
a
a
b
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool and the
needle may break.
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30
i
While holding the spool with your right hand,
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread under the thread guide.
a Thread guide
j
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled
out, and then pass the thread under the thread
guide cover with your left hand.
a Thread guide cover
k
Thread the machine by guiding the thread
along the path indicated by the number on the
machine.
l
Pass the thread into the thread take-up lever
from the right to the left.
a Thread take-up lever
Memo
z If the needle is not raised, the thread take-up
lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to press
the needle position button to raise the
needle before threading the thread take-up
lever.
m
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
guide.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, and pulling the thread into
the guide from right to left.
a Needle bar thread guide
n
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the
presser foot.
a Presser foot lever
1
a
a
a
a
Upper Threading 31
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Threading the needle
This section describes how to thread the needle.
Memo
z The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.
z The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.
z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to “Threading the needle manually (without
using the needle threader)” (page 33).
a
Pull the end of the thread, which has been
passed through the needle bar thread guide, to
the left (A), and then firmly pull it from the
front (B) through the slit in the thread guide
disk.
Make sure that the thread passes the notch of
the thread guide.
a Thread guide disk
b Notch of the thread guide
b
Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the
left side of the machine.
a Thread cutter
Note
z When using thread that quickly winds off the
spool, such as metallic thread, it may be
difficult to thread the needle if the thread is
cut.
Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter,
pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of
thread after passing it through the thread
guide disks (marked “7”).
a 80 mm (3 inches) or more
a
b
A
B
a
1
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32
c
Lower the needle threader lever on the left
side of the machine, and then slowly return the
lever to its original position.
a Needle threader lever
X The thread is passed through the eye of the
needle.
Note
z If the needle was not completely threaded,
but a loop in the thread was formed in the
eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop
through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.
CAUTION
d
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.
a 5 cm (2 inches)
X The upper threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
Note
z If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press (needle position button) to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.
● When pulling out the thread, do not pull
it with extreme force, otherwise the
needle may break or bend.
a
a
Upper Threading 33
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Threading the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)
When using specialty thread, such as transparent
nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a
twin needle which cannot be used with the needle
threader, thread the needle as described below.
a
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread
guide.
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page
28).
b
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Pressor foot lever
c
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from front to back.
CAUTION
d
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
a Twin needle
b Extra spool pin
CAUTION
a
Install the twin needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 39).
b
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
eye.
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page
28).
c
Manually thread the left needle with the upper
thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
● Do not touch the start/stop button,
needle position button or reverse/
reinforcement stitch button. If one of the
buttons is accidentally pressed, the
machine will begin sewing and your
finger may be pricked with the needle or
the needle may break.
a
ab
● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-121). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the twin needle. If the needle threader is
used with the twin needle, the sewing
machine may be damaged.
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34
d
Insert the extra spool pin into the end of the
bobbin winder shaft.
e
Install the thread spool and thread the upper
thread.
Memo
z When setting the thread spool, set it so that
the thread winds off from the front of the
spool.
f
Thread the upper thread for the right side in
the same way that the upper thread for the left
side was threaded.
a Thread guide cover
• For details, refer to step i through l of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 28).
g
Without passing the thread through the needle
bar thread guide, manually thread the right
needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
h
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
CAUTION
i
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
a Bobbin winder shaft
b Extra spool pin
c Thread spool
1
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Upper Threading 35
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j
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
CAUTION
k
Press (Needle mode selection key).
X or (Twin needle icon) appears in
the screen, and the twin needle can now be
used.
• To return to single needle sewing, press
(Needle mode selection key) until the icon
switches to or .
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the twin needle setting is not cancelled.
CAUTION
l
Start sewing.
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
“Starting to sew” (page 52).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
Note
z When using the twin needle, the stitches
may become bunched together, depending
on the types of thread and fabric that are
used. If this occurs, increase the stitch
length. For details on adjusting the stitch
length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length”
(page 59).
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
● When changing the sewing direction,
press (needle position button) to raise
the needle from the fabric, and then raise
the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
Otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
● Do not try turning the fabric with the
twin needle left down in the fabric,
otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
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36
Pulling up the bobbin thread
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
a
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
• Refer to steps
a through e of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 26).
b
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
c
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
While lightly holding the upper thread with
your left hand with the needle in the up-
position, press (needle position button)
twice to lower and raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
e
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
out the end of the bobbin thread.
f
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of the bobbin
thread under the presser foot toward the rear
of the machine.
g
Turn off the sewing machine.
h
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover (A), and then lightly press down
on the right side (B).
1
AA
B
Replacing the Needle 37
1
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Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
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38
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Note
z Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It
may cause malfunctions.
Memo
z The lower the thread number, the thicker the
thread, and the higher the needle number,
the thicker the needle.
z Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.
z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.
CAUTION
Fabric Type/Application
Thread
Size of Needle
Type Size
Medium weight
fabrics
Broadcloth Cotton thread
60–90
75/11–90/14Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Thin fabrics
Lawn Cotton thread
60–90
65/9–75/11Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Thick fabrics
Denim Cotton thread
30 100/16
50
90/14–100/16
Corduroy Synthetic thread
50-60
Tweed Silk thread
Stretch
fabrics
Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(golden colored)
Tricot
Easily frayed fabrics
Cotton thread
50–90
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Silk thread 50
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30 100/16
50–60 90/11–90/14
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table
above. If the combination of the fabric,
thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics
(such as denim) with thin needles (such as
65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or
break. In addition, the stitching may be
uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.
Replacing the Needle 39
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Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
■ Correct needle
a Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
a Flat surface
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to
be straight according to the instructions in “Checking
the needle”.
a
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
CAUTION
c
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
1
2
1
1
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if (start/stop
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
● Before replacing the needle, place fabric
or paper under the presser foot to prevent
the needle from falling into the hole in the
needle plate.
a
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40
d
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw toward you (counterclockwise) to
remove the needle.
a Needle clamp screw
b Screwdriver
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
e
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear
of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
a Needle stopper
f
While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
CAUTION
b
a
a
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
Replacing the Presser Foot 41
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Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions
concerning the presser feet.
CAUTION
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to
“Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side
cutter” (page 73).
a
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
CAUTION
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the
type of stitch that you wish to sew,
otherwise the needle may hit the presser
foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically
for this sewing machine. Use of any other
presser foot may result in injuries or
damage to the machine.
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if (start/stop
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
a
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42
d
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder.
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
e
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
a Presser foot holder
b Notch
c Pin
d Presser foot type
f
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
X The presser foot is attached.
g
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
z For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 120).
a
b
c
b
a
4
J
b
c
d
a
a Presser foot lever
b Presser foot holder
c Notch
d Pin
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Zigzag foot “J”
Button fitting foot “M”
Monogramming foot “N”
Blind stitch foot “R”
Replacing the Presser Foot 43
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Removing the presser foot
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
■ Removing the presser foot holder
a
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
b
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
holder screw.
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
a
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
left side of the presser bar.
a Presser bar
b Presser foot holder
b
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your
right hand, and then tighten the screw using
the screwdriver in your left hand.
a Screwdriver
Note
z
If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
a
b
c
a
b
a
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44
Using the optional walking
foot
With the optional walking foot, both pieces of fabric
are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the
presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that
are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when
sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
Note
z Thread the needle manually when using the
walking foot, or only attach the walking foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.
■ Attaching the walking foot
a
Remove the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 43).
b
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
onto the needle clamp screw.
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
c
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
with the screwdriver.
a Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
Note
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
■ Removing the walking foot
a
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
a
b
a
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle
may touch the presser foot, causing it to
bend or break.
●
Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch
the presser foot. If the needle hits the
presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
a
Replacing the Presser Foot 45
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d
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot
holder screw, and then remove the walking
foot.
a Presser foot holder screw
e
Attach the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 43).
Memo
z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
z The optional walking foot is available
through your Brother dealer.
a
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46
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.
a
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
b
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, and then sew from the top.
c
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
Sewing large pieces of fabric
The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of
fabric easier. (Included with machine model NS85e,
optional with other models.)
a
Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide
table.
Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
b
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 47
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c
Install the wide table.
Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into
place. The lower right corner section of the
wide table extends over the front section of the
sewing machine bed.
a Lower right corner
b Sewing machine bed
Note
z The optional wide table is available through
your Brother dealer.
d
Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to
adjust their height so the wide table will be
level with the sewing machine bed.
CAUTION
e
When you are finished using the wide table,
remove it.
While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.
f
Install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
● Do not move the sewing machine while
the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.
1
2
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48
2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure .................................................................................50
Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................51
Starting to sew ...................................................................................................52
Securing the stitching.........................................................................................54
Cutting the thread ..............................................................................................56
Adjusting the Thread Tension ..................................................................................57
Changing the tension of the upper thread ..........................................................57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length....................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................59
Useful Functions......................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position .....................................................................60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches
..........................................60
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................62
Trial sewing........................................................................................................62
Changing the sewing direction
.............................................................................62
Sewing curves ....................................................................................................62
Sewing thick fabrics ...........................................................................................62
Sewing thin fabrics.............................................................................................63
Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................63
Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................64
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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50
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Use the correct presser foot for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle
may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● When sewing, make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle
may break or bend.
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
1 Turn on the machine.
Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine,
refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 17).
2 Select the stitch.
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on
selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 67).
3 Attach the presser foot.
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing
the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
4 Position the fabric.
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric,
refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 51).
5 Start sewing.
Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 52).
6 Cut the thread.
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread,
refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 56).
Sewing 51
2
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Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.
b
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
c
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
d
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your right
hand to lower the needle to the starting point
of the stitching.
e
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
a
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52
Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the sewing speed controller or the foot
controller.
Note
Important:
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
■ Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button (start/stop button).
a
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
b
Press (start/stop button) once.
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
• If you continue to hold
(start/stop button)
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
the machine will sew at a slow speed.
c
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(start/stop button) once.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
d
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
X For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 56).
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent
the machine from accidentally being started.
Sewing 53
2
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b
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
the side of the sewing machine.
a Foot controller jack
c
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller will be the foot controller’s
maximum sewing speed.
e
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
a Slower
b Faster
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
f
When the end of the stitching is reached,
completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
1
2
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54
g
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
56).
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needle stays up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 60).
CAUTION
Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
a
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
b
Press (start/stop button) or press down on
the foot controller.
At this time, if
(start/stop button) is held
down, the machine sews at a low speed.
a Start/stop button
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
X The machine starts sewing.
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
Sewing 55
2
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c
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press (reverse/
reinforcement stitch button).
Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
held down until you reach the beginning of the
stitching.
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X While (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are
sewn.
d
After sewing back to the beginning of the
stitching, release (reverse/reinforcement
stitch button).
X The machine stops sewing.
e
Press (start/stop button), or press down
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction
f
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
sewn.
X While (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are
sewn.
g
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
release (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).
X The machine stops sewing.
h
Press (start/stop button), or press down
on the foot controller.
At this time, if
(start/stop button) is held
down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
i
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
sewing machine stops.
Press (start/stop button) or release foot
controller.
a Beginning of stitching
b End of stitching
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or
zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse
stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement
stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5
stitches on top of each other.
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
Memo
z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 120).
1
2
5
6
4
3
1
2
1
2
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56
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads with
the thread cutter on the side of the machine.
a
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
sewing machine is stopped, if the needle is not
raised, press (needle position button) once
to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
c
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
a Thread cutter
a
a
Adjusting the Thread Tension 57
2
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Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they
are equal.
Changing the tension of the
upper thread
You may need to change the thread tension,
depending on the fabric and thread being used.
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
■ Upper thread is too tight
Note
z If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to “Installing the bobbin”
(page 26) and rethread the bobbin thread.
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
the upper thread.
■ Upper thread is too loose
Note
z If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,
the upper thread may be too loose. In this
case, refer to “Upper Threading” (page 28)
and rethread the upper thread.
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
the upper thread.
Note
z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
may not be possible to set the correct thread
tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
insert the bobbin correctly.
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
5
5
1
2
3
4
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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58
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a
stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of
values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to
make the stitch wider or narrower.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
c
To make the stitch width narrower, press
(Stitch width key). To make the stitch width
wider, press (Stitch width key).
X The stitch width is changed.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
Memo
z To reset the stitch width to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z If the straight stitch (left needle position or
triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing
the stitch width changes the needle position.
Increasing the width moves the needle to the
right; reducing the width moves the needle
to the left.
z The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the
sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
“Satin stitching using the sewing speed
controller” (page 98).
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
–
+
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 59
2
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Adjusting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch
longer or shorter.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
c
To make the stitch length shorter, press
(Stitch length key). To make the stitch length
longer, press (Stitch length key).
X The stitch length is changed.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
Memo
z To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
–
+
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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60
Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Changing the needle stop
position
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is
stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead
leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Press (Needle position key).
X or (Needle stop position icon)
appears in the screen, and the machine is
now set to stop with the needle in the raised
position.
• To return the machine to the setting where
the needle is stopped in the lowered position,
press (Needle position key) until the
icon changes to or .
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the needle stop position setting is not
cancelled.
Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and
end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch
that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
Useful Functions 61
2
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c
Press (Automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitch key).
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
X (Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch
icon) appears in the screen, and the sewing
machine is set for automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching.
• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press (Automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitch key) until the icon
disappears.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
d
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
then press (start/stop button) once.
a Start/stop button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
e
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT be
sewn until (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is pressed. (start/stop button)
may be pressed to stop stitching when
needed such as for pivoting corners.
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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62
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips
when sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After a stitch is selected, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that was
selected.
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
a
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine stopped
sewing, press (needle position button) to
lower the needle.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
c
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
“Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 64).
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
Useful Sewing Tips 63
2
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■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
The fabric may not feed when thick seams are
being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as
shown below. In this case, use the presser foot
locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag
foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level
while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed
smoothly.
a Sewing direction
b Misalignment
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Align the beginning of stitching, and then
position the fabric.
c
While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the
presser foot locking pin (black button on the
left side) pressed in, and lower the presser foot
lever.
a Presser foot holding pin (black button)
d
Release the presser foot locking pin (black
button).
X The presser foot remains level, allowing the
fabric to be fed.
X After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will
return to its original angle.
CAUTION
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under
the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When
you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
a Basting
b
a
a
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
a
a
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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64
Sewing an even seam
allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
a Seam
b Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8
inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
a Seam
b Presser foot
c Centimeters
d Inches
e Needle plate
f 16 mm (5/8 inch)
Sewing hook-and-loop
fastener
CAUTION
Note
z Before start sewing, baste together the fabric
and the hook-and-loop fastener.
Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-
and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and
lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener
before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook-
and-loop fastener at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-
loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for
thick fabrics (page 38).
a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener
1
2
6
4
3
5
2
1
● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is
attached to the needle or the bobbin hook
race, it may cause malfunction.
● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with
the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle
may bend or break.
3 UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Selecting Stitching ...............................66
Selecting stitch types and patterns
.......66
Selecting stitching .......................... 67
Overcasting Stitches............................ 71
Sewing overcasting stitches
using overcasting foot “G”.............71
Sewing overcasting stitches
using zigzag foot “J” ...................... 72
Sewing overcasting stitches
using the optional side cutter .........73
Basic Stitching.....................................75
Basic stitching ................................75
Blind Hem Stitching ............................77
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing....79
Buttonhole sewing..........................80
Button sewing ................................84
Zipper Insertion...................................86
Inserting a centered zipper ............86
Inserting a side zipper ....................88
Sewing Stretch Fabrics
and Elastic Tape...................................91
Stretch stitching .............................91
Elastic attaching ............................. 91
Appliqué, Patchwork
and Quilt Stitching ..............................93
Appliqué stitching ..........................94
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching
.........95
Piecing ...........................................95
Quilting.......................................... 96
Free-motion quilting.......................97
Satin stitching using the sewing
speed controller .............................98
Reinforcement Stitching ....................100
Triple stretch stitching..................100
Bar tack stitching..........................100
Eyelet Stitching..................................102
Decorative Stitching..........................103
Fagoting........................................104
Scallop stitching ...........................105
Smocking......................................105
Shell tuck stitching .......................106
Joining ..........................................107
Heirloom stitching........................107
Sewing the Various Built-In
Decorative Patterns...........................110
Sewing beautiful patterns .............110
Sewing patterns............................110
Combining patterns ......................111
Repeat sewing patterns.................112
Checking the selected pattern ......112
Mirror imaging the pattern...........113
Retrieving a pattern......................115
Realigning the pattern ..................116
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
66
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Selecting stitch types and
patterns
A stitch can be selected from the following types
available.
Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct
select (by pressing the key for a specific stitch) or
number selection (by entering the number for the
stitch pattern).
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to
“Stitch Settings” (page 120).
■ Direct selection
After pressing (Preset utility stitch/saved
pattern key) to select the stitch mode, press the
numeric key assigned with the desired stitch.
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern
mode . When the machine is turned on or
when the (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
key) is pressed, the machine enters preset utility
stitch mode, indicated by in the lower-left
corner of the screen. To enter saved pattern
mode, indicated by in the lower-left corner
of the screen, press the (Preset utility stitch/
saved pattern key). Each press of (Preset
utility stitch/saved pattern key) switches the mode
between the preset utility stitch mode and
saved pattern mode .
a Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
b Numeric keys
Preset utility stitch
The most frequently used utility stitches
have been assigned to the numeric keys.
These stitches can be selected simply by
pressing the key.
Saved patterns
Frequently used patterns and combined
patterns can be saved on the machine's
memory and easily retrieved using
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key) and
the numeric keys. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 114).
■ Number selection
After pressing (Utility stitch key) or
(Character/utility decorative stitch key) to select
the stitch mode, use the numeric keys to type in
the number for the desired stitch.
a Utility stitch key
b Character/utility decorative stitch key
c Numeric keys
Utility stitches (No.01-80)
There are 80 utility stitches, including
straight stitches, overcasting stitches,
buttonhole stitches, decorative stitches,
satin stitches and cross-stitches.
1
2
/
/
1
3
2
Selecting Stitching 67
3
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Character stitches (No.01-55)
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.
If (Character/utility decorative stitch key) is
pressed once, character stitch mode is selected.
Character stitches are sewn in the Gothic font.
Utility decorative stitches (No.01-62)
Some utility stitches can be used as
decorative stitches. There are 62 of these
stitches.
Multiple patterns can be combined in the utility
decorative stitch mode .
If (Character/utility decorative stitch key) is
pressed once, character stitch mode is
selected. If (Character/utility decorative
stitch key) is pressed twice, utility decorative
stitch mode is selected. Each press of
(Utility decorative/character stitch key) switches
the mode between character stitch mode
and utility decorative stitch mode .
Selecting stitching
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch. Ten of the most often used utility stitches can
quickly be selected with the numeric keys.
Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch
(left needle position) is selected.
The machine can also be set to select the straight
stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to
“Changing the settings” (page 19).
a
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
a Stitch pattern plate
b
Determine which presser foot should be used
with the selected stitch.
The presser feet are stored in the accessory
compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
c
Attach the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.
e
After selecting the stitch mode, select the
stitch pattern.
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
68
■ With direct selection
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern
mode .
a
Press (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
key) to select the stitch mode.
: Preset utility stitch
The 10 stitch patterns printed on the
numeric keys can be selected directly.
appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen when the machine is turned on or
when (Preset utility stitch/saved
pattern key) is pressed.
: Saved patterns
The 3 stitch patterns saved with the
numeric keys can be selected directly.
appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen when (Preset utility stitch/
saved pattern key) is pressed.
X When a direct selection mode is selected,
appears in the screen.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
However, when the machine is turned on,
appears only in the lower-left corner of
the screen and does not appear in the center
of the screen.
Example: preset utility stitch
b
Press the key assigned with the stitch to select
the stitch.
• Continue with step f (on page 69).
■ With number selection
There are three modes of stitches that can be
selected by number: utility stitch mode ,
character stitch mode and utility decorative
stitch mode .
a
Press the stitch mode key for the stitch that
you wish to use.
Utility stitches
80 utility stitches, including decorative
stitches, satin stitches and cross-stitches,
are available.
Character stitches
55 letters, symbols and numbers are
available in the Gothic font.
When (Character/utility decorative
stitch key) is pressed once.
Utility decorative stitches
62 utility decorative stitches are available.
When (Character/utility decorative
stitch key) is pressed twice.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
Example: utility decorative stitches
Memo
z When pressing a stitch mode key multiple
times, continue pressing the key after the
icon for the stitch mode appears in the
lower-left corner of the screen.
Selecting Stitching 69
3
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b
Use the numeric keys to type in the two-digit
number for the desired stitch.
For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also
be selected by using the numeric keys to type in
a one-digit number, then pressing (OK
key).
X After the entered number appears in the
center of the screen, the stitch is selected.
Example
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
• If the first number (tens when entering two-
digit numbers, ones when entering one-digit
numbers) was incorrectly entered, press
(Cancel/clear key) to erase the entered
number.
• If an incorrect two-digit number was entered,
an error beep is sounded, and the entered
number is cleared.
f
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, begin on page 71.
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
Memo
z For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 58).
■ To select a different stitch
Check the icon in the lower-left corner of the
screen for the current mode.
To select a stitch in the same mode as the
current one
• In the utility stitch mode, simply type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• In the decorative stitch mode and character
stitch mode, press (Cancel/clear key) to
cancel the stitch, and then type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• However, if the currently selected stitch was
sewn at least one time, typing in a stitch
number switches to the new stitch, even if
the previous stitch was not canceled.
Memo
z Patterns can be combined by selecting a
different decorative stitch while a stitch is
selected. For details, refer to “Saving
patterns” (page 114).
The current mode is indicated.
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
70
To select a stitch in a different mode as the
current one
• After selecting a different mode, type in the
number for the desired stitch. (Refer to steps
e on pages 67 through 69.)
When switching from the utility stitch mode to
the decorative stitch or character stitch mode or
the other way around, all stitches that have been
selected are erased so that a new stitch can be
selected. A screen similar to the one shown
below appears, allowing you to confirm whether
or not to erase the stitches.
• To erase the stitch and select a different one,
press (OK key), and then change the
stitch mode.
• To stop the current stitch from being erased,
press (Cancel/clear key) to return to the
previous screen.
Memo
z After changing stitch settings such as the
stitch length and width or after combining
patterns, the stitch pattern can be saved with
its current settings. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 114).
Overcasting Stitches 71
3
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Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Fifteen stitches are
available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the
presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
c
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
a Guide
e
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
a Needle drop point
CAUTION
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Overcasting
stitch
08
Preventing fraying in
medium weight and
thin fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
G
09
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
fabrics that fray easily
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
10
–
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
G
a
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
1
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
72
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Six stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
a Needle drop point
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
(center
needle
position)
05
Preventing fraying
(center baseline/
reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
2-point
zigzag stitch
06
–
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
3-point
zigzag stitch
07
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
11
–
Preventing fraying in
stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
12
–
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
13
–
Preventing fraying in
stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
a
a
a
Overcasting Stitches 73
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Four stitches can
be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
When using the side cutter, adjust the stitch width setting to a value within the range indicated in the table
above.
a
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
b
Lower the presser foot lever, and then
manually thread the needle.
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
needle threader is used with the side cutter,
the sewing machine may be damaged.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
d
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
onto the needle clamp screw.
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
e
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
a Notch in presser foot holder
b Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Overcasting
stitch
01
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
S
08
Preventing fraying in thin and
medium weight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
09
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
21
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
a
b
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
74
f
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
side cutter is securely attached.
g
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
h
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
CAUTION
i
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
a 2 cm (3/4 inch)
j
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
a Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
k
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
sewing.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
a 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Memo
z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
z The optional side cutter is available through
your Brother dealer.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
1
a
1
Basic Stitching 75
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Basic stitching
a
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
d
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching.
f
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 54).
g
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
56).
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight stitch
(left needle
position)
01
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks (left baseline/
reverse stitching)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2-5.0
(1/64–3/16)
J
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
02
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks (center
baseline/reverse
stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2-5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Triple stretch
stitch
03
Reinforcing seams
and sewing stretch
fabrics
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
76
■ Changing the needle position
The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle
position) and the straight stitch (center needle
position).
a Straight stitch (left needle position)
b Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
a Stitch width setting
b Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width”
(page 58).
12
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0
1
6
543
2
Blind Hem Stitching 77
3
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
a
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch)
from the edge of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stitching
c Desired edge of hem
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
b
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
then position the fabric with the wrong side
facing up.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting
c
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
e
Attach blind stitch foot “R”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
f
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Blind hem
stitch
14
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight
fabrics
00
(0)
– 3← →3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
R
15
–
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
00
(0)
– 3← →3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
3
4
1
2
2
1
R
R
c
b
a
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
78
g
Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly
catches the fold of the hem.
a Needle
b Needle drop point
c Fold of hem
a Stitch width
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
The needle is too far to the left.
Press (of the Stitch width keys) to
decrease the stitch width so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right.
Press (of the Stitch width keys) to
increase the stitch width so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width, refer
to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length”
(page 58).
h
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
i
Remove the basting stitching.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
R
b
a
c
1
–
+
1 2
1 2
1 2
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 79
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Ten stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Buttonhole
stitch
42
–
Horizontal
buttonholes on thin
and medium weight
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
A
43
–
Horizontal
buttonholes on areas
that are subject to
strain
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
44
–
Horizontal
buttonholes on thick
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
45
Buttonholes with bar
tacks on both ends for
stabilized fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
46
–
Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics
6.0
(15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.0
(1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
47
–
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
(15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.5
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
48
– Bound buttonholes
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
49
–
Keyhole buttonholes
for thick or plush
fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
50
–
Keyhole buttonholes
for medium weight
and thick fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
51
–
Horizontal buttonhole
for thick or plush
fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Button-
sewing stitch
53
– Button sewing
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
––M
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
80
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
a Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
a
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
and length of the buttonhole.
a Marks on fabric
b Button hole sewing
b
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
1
1
1
1
A
1
2
5
3
4
1
2
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 81
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of
15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm
(3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set
to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
e
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on
the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
f
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
1
3
2
1
2
A
1
2
a
a
2
1
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
82
g
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
h
Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,
remove the fabric, and cut the thread.
i
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
j
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
a Pin
k
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and
open the buttonhole.
a Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
a Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
CAUTION
■ Changing the density of the stitching
Adjust the stitch length.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 59).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.
1
1
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
● Do not use the seam ripper in any other
way than how it is intended.
1
–
+
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 83
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ Changing the stitch width
Adjust the stitch width.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
Memo
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use
a gimp thread.
a
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely
tie it.
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select stitch
46
or
47
.
d
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
f
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
g
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
h
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
i
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
Note
z If gimp thread is not available use a thread
or cord of at least 12 weight.
–
+
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
84
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
a
Measure the distance between the holes in the
button to be attached.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
machine on the base, to (to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
c
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
Select stitch
53
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
e
Attach button fitting foot “M”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
f
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
the distance between the holes in the button.
g
Place the button into button fitting foot “M”.
a Button
X The button is held in place.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
h
Turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
If it seems as if the needle will hit the button,
remeasure the distance between the holes in
the button. Adjust the stitch width to the
distance between the button holes.
CAUTION
a
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
a
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 85
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
i
Start sewing.
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so
that the speed will be slow).
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the
button, perform the button-sewing operation
twice.
j
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching
to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it
with the bobbin thread.
k
When you are finished attaching the button,
slide the drop feed lever to (to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn
the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
Memo
z The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side (as seen from the rear of
machine).
z The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.
■ Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.
a
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,
and then pull the shank lever toward you.
a Shank lever
b
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
with plenty of excess, wind it around the
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching on
the wrong side of the fabric.
c
Cut off any excess thread.
a
1
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
86
Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side
zipper are described below.
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.
a Right side of fabric
b Stitching
c End of zipper opening
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches
up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
75).
c
Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the
fabric.
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
d
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric
e
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
and then baste the zipper in place.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stitching
c Zipper
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
02
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed
seams and pintucks
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
I
a
b
c
1
2
3
4
1
1
2
3
Zipper Insertion 87
3
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—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
f
Select stitch
02
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
CAUTION
g
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
h
Topstitch around the zipper.
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d End of zipper opening
CAUTION
i
Remove the basting stitching.
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
2
1
I
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
1
2
3
4
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
88
Inserting a side zipper
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this
type of zipper application for side openings and back
openings.
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the
fabric.
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
c
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches
up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
75).
d
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric
e
Press the seam allowance so that the right side
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
a Wrong side of fabric
b 3 mm (1/8 inch)
f
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of
the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
a Zipper teeth
b Basting stitching
g
Select stitch
02
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
CAUTION
a
b
c
1
2
3
4
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
1
1
2
2
1
Zipper Insertion 89
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
h
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
i
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.
CAUTION
j
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
k
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
a Basting stitching
l
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
of zipper foot “I”.
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step
h, change it to the left pin.
a Pin on the left side
b Needle drop point
m
Topstitch around the zipper.
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the side
of the presser foot.
a Right side of fabric
b End of zipper opening
c Reverse stitches
d Beginning of stitching
e Basting stitching
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
2
1
I
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
1
I
1
2
1
2
3
4
5
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
90
n
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
o
Remove the basting stitching.
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 91
3
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Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select stitch
04
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
a
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
a Elastic tape
b Pin
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Stretch stitch
04
Stretch fabrics
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
2-point
zigzag stitch
06
–
Attaching elastic
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
3-point
zigzag stitch
07
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
31
–
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
J
1
2
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
92
d
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
J
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 93
3
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—
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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
05
Attaching appliqués
(center baseline/
reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
21
–
Appliqué quilting,
free-motion quilting,
satin stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
16
– Attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
22
–
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
23
–
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Piecing
straight stitch
18
–
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
(1/4 inch) from the
right edge of the
presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
19
–
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
(1/4 inch) from the left
edge of the presser
foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Joining stitch
26
–
Patchwork stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
27
–
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
28
–
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Mock hand
quilting stitch
20
–
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand
quilting
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stippling
24
– Stippling
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
94
Appliqué stitching
a
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and
3/16 inch).
a Seam allowance
b
Place a pattern made of thick paper or
stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then
fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.
c
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
a Basting stitching
d
Turn on the sewing machine.
e
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
f
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
g
Turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise), and then begin sewing
around the edge of the appliqué, making sure
that the needle drops just outside of the
appliqué.
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
1
1
J
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 95
3
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—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
a
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
place it over the lower piece.
b
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans over both pieces.
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
a
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select stitch
18
or
19
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
d
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with
the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
18
.
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
J
1
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
96
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
19
.
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Memo
z To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
Note
z Thread the needle manually when using the
walking foot, or only attach the walking foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.
z When quilting, use a 90/14 home sewing
machine needle.
z The walking foot can only be used with
straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Reverse
stitches cannot be sewn with the walking
foot. Only select straight or zigzag stitch
patterns with reinforcement stitches. For
details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
a
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting Stitching”
(page 66).
d
Attach the walking foot.
• For details, refer to “Using the optional
walking foot” (page 44).
e
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and hold fabric taut while sewing.
1
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
a
Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the
hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser
foot holder.
Walking foot
Presser foot holder
b
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that
the guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
Note
z The optional quilting guide is available
through your Brother dealer.
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using
the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved
freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
Note
z Thread the needle manually when using the
quilting foot, or only attach the quilting foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 43).
c
Secure the quilting foot with the presser foot
holder screw.
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw
c
b
a
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
98
d
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
e
Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of
the machine on the base, to (to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
a Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of
the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
f
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
g
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, and
then move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
a Pattern
h
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
lever to (to the right as seen from the rear
of the machine) and turn the handwheel to
raise the feed dogs.
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at
the right.
Satin stitching using the
sewing speed controller
A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the
stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is
set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the
sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly
and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed
is adjusted with the foot controller.
a
Connect the foot controller.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
a
a
a
a
J
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
e
Press or (Stitch length keys) until
is displayed.
X The screen for specifying that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller appears.
f
Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
.
To return to , press or (Stitch
width keys).
X The machine is now set so that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller.
g
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
h
Select stitch
21
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
i
While sewing, slide the sewing speed
controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width
narrower. Slide the controller to the right to
make the width wider.
a Narrower
b Wider
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot
controller.
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(Start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
j
When you are finished sewing, set the stitch
width control setting back to OFF.
Memo
z
Although the stitching result differs depending
on the type of fabric being sewn and the
thickness of the thread being used, for best
results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3
and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).
12
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
100
Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select stitch
03
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
a
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a Presser foot scale
b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1–1/8 inches) can be sewn.
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Triple stretch
stitch
03
Reinforcing the seams
of sleeves and
inseams
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
Bar tack
stitch
52
–
Reinforcing the ends
of openings, such as
the corners of pockets
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
A
J
3
1
2
Reinforcement Stitching 101
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
c
Select stitch
52
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
d
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot, and then pull it under the
presser foot, as shown.
f
With the opening of the pocket toward you,
position the fabric so that the needle drops 2
mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening,
and then lower the presser foot lever.
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Note
z When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
g
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
h
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
i
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
and then remove the fabric.
j
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
z If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
stitch length” (page 59).
a
a
2
1
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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102
Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm
(1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch).
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select stitch
54
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
c
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch
length to select the desired eyelet size.
a 7 mm (1/4 inch)
b 6 mm (15/64 inch)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
e
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
f
Start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
g
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the
center of the eyelet.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
Memo
z If light weight thread is used, the stitching
may be sparse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet
twice before removing the fabric, one on top
of the other.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Eyelet stitch
54
Sewing eyelets, for example, on
belts
7.0
(1/4)
7.0, 6.0 or
5.0
(1/4, 15/64
or 3/16)
–– N
a b c
Decorative Stitching 103
3
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Decorative Stitching
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Fagoting
stitch
29
Sewing two pieces of fabric
together across an open seam
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
30
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/25–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Joining stitch
26
Decorative bridging stitches
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
27
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
28
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Shell tuck
stitch
17
Shell tuck stitching on collars
and curves
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Smocking
stitch
29
Smocking fabrics to add texture
and elasticity
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
30
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
40
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Scallop stitch
25
Satin scallop stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
N
Hemstitching
36
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom stitching,
etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
37
6.0
(15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
38
Decorative hemming and
heirloom stitching, etc. on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
39
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
40
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
41
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Ladder stitch
32
Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
104
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
a
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
b
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
If you draw a line down the middle of the thin
paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is
easier.
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)
c
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
Select stitch
29
or
30
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
e
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
f
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
g
Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned
along the center of the two pieces of fabric.
h
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
Rick-rack
stitch
33
Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
Decorative
stitch
34
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Serpentine
stitch
35
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
N
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
2
1
3
J
Decorative Stitching 105
3
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Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of
blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select stitch
25
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
c
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure
not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
• For better results, apply spray starch to the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
e
Trim along the stitches.
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 59) and “Changing the tension
of the upper thread” (page 57).
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
(3/8 inch).
a 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• It is not necessary to sew reverse/
reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.
• At the end of the stitching, the thread is
pulled out about 5 cm (2 inches).
e
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
J
1
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
106
f
Select stitch
29
,
30
or
40
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
g
Stitch between the straight stitches.
h
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
Shell tuck stitching
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
a
Fold the fabric along the bias.
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select stitch
17
, and then increase the
thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
d
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
Sew while making sure that the needle drops
slightly off the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop point
f
Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
down to one side.
J
1
Decorative Stitching 107
3
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Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
allowances.
a Wrong side of fabric
b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Select stitch
26
,
27
or
28
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
e
Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces
up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
a Right side of fabric
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
CAUTION
a
Insert the wing needle.
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on inserting a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 39).
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select stitch,
32
,
36
,
37
,
38
,
39
,
40
or
41
.
d
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
CAUTION
1
1
2
3
J
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle, otherwise the sewing
machine may be damaged. Manually pass
the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front to the back. For details,
refer to “Upper Threading” (page 28).
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64
inch) or less, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
108
e
Start sewing.
Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.
This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a
loose weave.
Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
■ Drawnwork (Example 1)
a
Pull out several threads from the fabric.
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select stitch
36
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
d
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
along the right edge of the frayed section.
f
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
g
Press or (Stitch length keys) until
is displayed.
X 9The screen for mirror imaging the pattern
appears.
N
Decorative Stitching 109
3
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h
Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
.
To return to , press or (Stitch
width keys).
X The pattern is flipped.
i
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
j
Sew along the other edge of the frayed section
so that it looks like the previous stitching.
k
Set the mirror image pattern setting back to
.
■ Drawnwork (Example 2)
a
Pull out several threads from two sections of
the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of
about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
a 4 mm (3/16 inch)
b
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select stitch
39
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
d
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
e
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
N
1
N
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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110
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns
Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming
foot “N”.
Sewing beautiful patterns
In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following
must be considered.
■ Fabric
Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics
with a coarse weave, affix the optional stabilizer
material to the wrong side of the fabric or place a
thin sheet of paper, such as tracing paper, under
the fabric. Since material puckering or bunched
stitches may occur when satin stitches are sewn,
be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric.
■ Needles and threads
When sewing thin, medium weight or stretch
fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing
thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine
needle. In addition, #50-#60 thread should be
used.
■ Trial sewing
Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric
being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material
is used, the desired result may not be achieved.
Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before
sewing your project. In addition, while sewing, be
sure to guide the fabric with your hands in order
to prevent the fabric from slipping.
Sewing patterns
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to steps
d through f of
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
c
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Start sewing.
• The stitching is sewn in the direction
indicated by the arrow.
e
Sew reinforcement stitches.
When sewing with a character stitch,
reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn
after each character.
• When sewing a pattern with a stitch other
than a character stitch, it is useful to first set
the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting. For details, refer to “
Automatically
sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches
” (page
60).
f
When you are finished sewing, use scissors to
trim off any excess threads at the beginning of
the stitching and between the patterns.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 111
3
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Combining patterns
Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn
together.
Character stitches and utility decorative stitches
(stitches selected with ) can be combined.
However, utility stitches (stitches selected with
and ) cannot be combined.
a
Select the first pattern.
X The first pattern is selected and appears in
the LCD.
• When the sewing is started, the selected
pattern is sewn repeatedly until the sewing
machine is stopped.
b
Select the next pattern.
Use the numeric keys to type in the number for
the desired stitch.
To change the stitch type, press
(Character/utility decorative stitch key). After
the icon for the desired stitch mode appears in
the lower-left corner of the screen, type in the
number for the desired stitch.
X The combined patterns appear in the LCD.
• To remove a selected pattern, press
(Cancel/clear key) in the operation panel.
The pattern that was selected last is removed.
c
Repeat steps b.
d
After all of the desired patterns are selected,
start sewing.
a Sewing direction
X The order that the patterns appear in the
LCD is the order that they will be sewn.
Note
z When the combined pattern is sewn at least
one time, sewing of the combined pattern is
temporarily stopped. Typing in the number
of a stitch after sewing clears the combined
pattern and selects the new stitch, instead of
adding the new stitch to the combined
pattern.
z If you do not wish to clear the pattern, save it
before typing in the number of the new
stitch. For details on saving patterns, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 114).
Memo
z Up to 35 patterns can be combined.
z If multiple patterns have been combined, the
sewing machine stops once all the selected
patterns displayed in the LCD have been
sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined
pattern, refer to “Repeat sewing patterns”.
z The combined pattern can be saved for later
use. For details, refer to “Saving patterns”
(page 114).
1
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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112
Repeat sewing patterns
To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the
procedure described below.
a
Select the pattern.
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns”
(page 111).
b
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
c
Press or (Stitch length keys) until
is displayed.
X The screen for specifying repeat sewing
appears.
d
Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
(repeat sewing).
To return to (single sewing), press or
(Stitch width keys).
e
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
the machine is set to repeatedly sew the
selected pattern.
a Single
b Repeated
Note
z If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is
repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is
stopped.
z If the sewing machine is turned off, the
repeated/single sewing setting returns to its
default setting.
Checking the selected pattern
Up to 35 patterns can be combined. If all of the
selected patterns cannot be displayed in the LCD at
the same time, the pattern can be checked according
to the following procedure.
a
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
1
2
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 113
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b
Press or (Stitch length keys) until
is displayed.
X The screen for checking the pattern appears.
c
Press or (Stitch width keys) to scroll
through the pattern and check it.
• Press to scroll through the pattern to the left. If
the key is pressed while the leftmost (first) pattern is
displayed, a beep sounds.
• Press to scroll through the pattern to the right.
If the key is pressed while only the rightmost (last)
pattern is displayed, a beep sounds.
d
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Mirror imaging the pattern
The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical
axis.
a
Select a stitch.
b
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
c
Press or (Stitch length keys) until is
displayed.
X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern
appears.
d
Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
.
To return to , press or (Stitch
width keys).
X The pattern is mirror imaged.
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
114
e
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
a Normal
b Mirror-imaged
Memo
z Some of the utility stitches, most of the
decorative stitches, and all of the character
stitches can be mirror imaged.
z Mirror imaged patterns can also be
combined with other patterns.
Saving patterns
Combined patterns can be saved for later use. Since
saved patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is
turned off, they can be retrieved at any time. This is
convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be
used often. Utility stitches can also be saved. Up to
three patterns can be saved.
a
Create the combined pattern that you wish to
save. Otherwise, display the pattern to be
saved.
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns”
(page 111).
b
Press (Memory key) in the operation
panel.
X The machine enters pattern memory mode,
and appears in the upper-left corner of
the screen.
c
Press the numeric key (1 to 3) for the pocket
where the pattern is to be saved.
X The saved contents of the pocket for the
selected number are displayed.
• If nothing has been saved, nothing appears in
the bottom of the screen.
• If the pocket contains a pattern, the pattern is
displayed. To leave this pattern in the pocket,
select a different pocket.
1
2
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 115
3
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d
Check the contents, and then press (OK
key).
The contents saved in the selected pocket are
overwritten.
X An screen appears, indicating that the
pattern is being saved in the pocket.
X After the pattern is saved, a beep is sounded,
and the initial stitch screen appears again.
Note
z Do not turn off the sewing machine while a
pattern is being saved, otherwise the pattern
data may be lost.
Memo
z The pattern saved in the pocket can be
erased by performing the save operation
with no pattern selected.
Retrieving a pattern
a
Press (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
key) in the operation panel.
X After appears in the center of the
screen, the machine enters retrieve pattern
mode, and appears in the lower-left
corner of the screen.
Memo
z Each time (Preset utility stitch/saved
pattern key) is pressed, the machine switches
between the preset utility stitch mode and
the saved pattern mode. (For details on the
preset utility stitch mode, refer to “Selecting
stitch types and patterns” (page 66).
b
Press the numeric key (1 to 3) for the pocket
where the pattern is saved.
X The saved contents of the pocket for the
selected number are retrieved.
• If nothing was saved in the selected pocket, a
beep is sounded, and the screen displayed
before the numeric key was pressed appears
again.
• To select a different pocket, use the numeric
keys to type in the number of a different
pocket.
Memo
z After a decorative stitch or character stitch
pattern is retrieved, press (Character/
utility decorative stitch key) to combine
additional patterns with it or edit it.
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
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116
Realigning the pattern
The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending on
the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. If
this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a
piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for
your project.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select (No. 62 of , selected with ).
Press (Character/utility decorative stitch
key), and then use the numeric keys to type in
“62”.
X The pattern alignment stitch is selected.
c
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
d
Start sewing.
X The pattern for making the adjustment is
sewn.
X The sewing machine stops after it has
finished sewing the pattern.
e
Check the sewn pattern.
If the part of the pattern indicated in the
illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is
correctly aligned.
If the pattern is not sewn correctly, follow the
steps below to adjust the sewing.
f
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
g
Press or (Stitch length keys) until is
displayed.
X The screen for adjusting the pattern appears.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 117
3
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
h
Press or (Stitch width keys).
X Make the necessary adjustments according
to how the pattern is sewn.
Press (Stitch width key) to increase the
adjustment setting.
Press (Stitch width key) to decrease the
adjustment setting.
i
Start sewing again, and then check the pattern.
Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn
correctly.
j
When the pattern is sewn correctly, press
(OK key) or (Cancel/clear key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
118
4 APPENDIX
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter.
Stitch Settings........................................................................................................120
Utility stitches ..................................................................................................120
Other stitches...................................................................................................124
Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................126
Restrictions on oiling........................................................................................126
Cleaning the machine surface
.............................................................................126
Cleaning the race .............................................................................................126
Removing the needle plate ...............................................................................127
Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................128
Frequent troubleshooting topics.......................................................................128
Upper thread tightened up
.................................................................................128
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric............................................................129
Incorrect thread tension...................................................................................131
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed .................................132
When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat .....................135
List of symptoms ..............................................................................................137
Error messages .................................................................................................142
Nothing appears in the LCD.............................................................................144
Operation beep ................................................................................................144
Cancelling the operation beep
............................................................................144
Index .....................................................................................................................146
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
120
Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility
stitches in the following table.
Utility stitches
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight
stitch
Left
01
J
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reverse No
Center
02
J/I
Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, sewing gathers
or pintucks, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reverse No
Triple
stretch
stitch
03
J
Attaching sleeves,
sewing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Stretch
stitch
04
J
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Zigzag
stitch
Center
05
J
Overcasting and
attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reverse No
2-point
zigzag stitch
06
J
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic,
darning, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement Yes
3-point
zigzag stitch
07
J
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic,
darning, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Overcasting
stitch
08
G
Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
09
G
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
10
G
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and fabrics
that fray easily
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
11
J
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
12
J
Overcasting on thick or
stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Overcasting
stitch
13
J
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics and decorative
stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Blind hem
stitch
14
R
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics
00
(0)
– 3← →3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No Reinforcement No
15
R
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
00
(0)
– 3← →3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No Reinforcement No
Stitch Settings 121
4
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Appliqué
stitch
16
J Appliqué stitching
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Shell tuck
stitch
17
J Shell tuck stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Piecing
straight
stitch
18
J
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from
the right edge of the
presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
19
J
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from
the left edge of the
presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement Yes
Straight
stitch that
looks
hand-sewn
(for quilting)
20
J
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Zigzag
stitch
(for quilting)
21
J
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No Reinforcement Yes
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
22
J
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
23
J
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Quilting
stitch
(for
stippling)
24
J
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–-7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Satin scallop
stitch
25
N Scallop stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Joining
stitch
26
J
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
27
J
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and
sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabric,
such as with tricot
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
28
J
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Fagoting
stitch
29
J
Fagoting and decorative
stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
30
J
Fagoting and decorative
stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
31
J
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Ladder
stitch
32
J Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
122
Rick-rack
stitch
33
J Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Decorative
stitch
34
J Decorative stitching
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Serpentine
stitch
35
N
Decorative stitching and
elastic-attaching
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Hem-
stitching
36
N
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
37
N
Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
38
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
39
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5–4.0
1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
40
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Hem-
stitching
41
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Buttonhole
stitch
42
A
Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium
weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
43
A
Horizontal buttonholes
on areas that are subject
to strain
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
44
A
Horizontal buttonholes
on thick fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
45
A
Secured buttonholes for
fabrics that have
backings
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
46
A
Buttonholes for stretch or
knit fabrics
6.0
(15/54)
3.0–6.0
(1/8– 15/64)
1.0
(1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
47
A
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
(15/54)
3.0–6.0
(1/8– 15/64)
1.5
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
48
A Bound buttonholes
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
49
A
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
50
A
Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and
thick fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
51
A
Horizontal buttonholes
for thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Stitch Settings 123
4
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Bar tack
stitch
52
A
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
Button-
sewing
stitch
53
M Button sewing
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
––No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
Eyelet stitch
54
N
Sewing eyelets, for
example, on belts
7.0
(1/4)
7.0, 6.0, 5.0
(1/4, 15/64,
3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0, 6.0, 5.0
(1/4, 15/64,
3/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
Decorative
stitches
55
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
56
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
57
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
58
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
59
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
60
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
61
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
62
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
63
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
64
N For decoration, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
65
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
66
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
67
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Satin
stitches
68
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
69
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
70
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
124
Other stitches
Memo
z To select Character stitch mode, press (Character/utility decorative stitch key) once.
Satin
stitches
71
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
72
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
73
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
74
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
75
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
(J)
Reinforcement No
Cross-
stitches
76
N For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
77
N For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
78
N For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
79
N For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
80
N For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Stitch Type
Pattern
Presser Foot
Twin Needle
Adjustable Pattern
Length/width
Left/Right Flipping
Character stitches
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
NNo No Yes
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
Stitch Settings 125
4
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(
*
1)
Pattern for making adjustment
(
*
2)
Use monogramming foot “N” when combined with other pattern
Memo
z To select utility decorative stitch mode, press (Character/utility decorative stitch key) twice.
Stitch Type
Pattern
Presser Foot
Twin Needle
Adjustable Pattern
Length/width
Left/Right Flipping
Utility decorative
stitches
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 11
J
(
*
2)
Yes
(*Not possible)
(J)
Yes
Yes
12 13 16 17 18* 20 21 22
23 24 25 26* 27 28
08 09 10
G
(
*
2)
No No
14 15
R
(
*
2)
No No
19* 29* 30 31 32 33 34 35
N
No
(*Not impossible)
Yes
36 37 38 39 40 41
NNo Yes
42 43 44 45 46 47 48 62(*1)
49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56
N
Yes
(J)
Yes
57 58 59 60 61
NNo Yes
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
126
Care and Maintenance
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Restrictions on oiling
In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must
not be oiled by the user.
This machine was manufactured with the necessary
amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation,
making periodic oiling unnecessary.
If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the
handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop
using the machine, and contact your authorized
dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Cleaning the machine surface
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it
once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
CAUTION
Cleaning the race
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
jack on the right side of the sewing machine.
CAUTION
c
Remove the flat bed attachment.
d
Loosen the presser foot holder screw and
remove the presser foot holder, and then
loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the
needle.
e
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and
then slide it toward you.
a Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
f
Remove the bobbin case.
Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
a Bobbin case
g
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any lint and dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
a Cleaning brush
b Race
• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning
the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning
the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
a
a
a
b
Care and Maintenance 127
4
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h
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on
machine as shown below.
• Align the S and z marks.
a
Smark
b
zmark
c Bobbin case
• Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
CAUTION
i
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into the
needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.
a Needle plate cover
j
Install the flat bed attachment in its original
position.
Removing the needle plate
When the thread is tangled and cannot be removed
by cleaning the race, remove the needle plate.
a
Follow steps a through f on page 126.
b
Remove the needle plate by removing the
screws with the included screwdriver.
c
Remove the tangled thread from the needle
plate.
d
Return the needle plate to its original position, and
then tighten the screws with the included screwdriver.
Note
z Align the two screw holes on the needle
plate with the two holes on the machine.
e
Follow steps g through j (page 126-127).
●
Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your
nearest authorized service center
.
● Be sure that the bobbin case is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may break.
a
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
128
Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers
the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://solutions.brother.com
” .
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Frequent troubleshooting topics
Detailed causes and remedies for common troubleshooting topics are described below. Be sure to refer to
this before contacting us.
Upper thread tightened up
■ Symptom
• The upper thread appears as a single
continuous line.
• The lower thread is visible from the upper
side of the fabric. (Refer to the illustration
below.)
• The upper thread has tightened up, and
comes out when pulled.
• The upper thread has tightened up, and
wrinkles appear in the fabric.
• The upper thread tension is tight, and the
results do not change even after the thread
tension is adjusted.
a Lower side of fabric
b Lower thread visible from upper side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Upper side of fabric
e Lower thread
■ Cause
Incorrect lower threading
If the lower thread is incorrectly threaded, instead
of the appropriate tension being applied to the
lower thread, it is pulled through the fabric when
the upper thread is pulled up. For this reason, the
thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.
■ Remedy/check details
Correctly install the lower thread.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.
c
Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that the
thread unwinds in the correct direction.
• Hold the bobbin with your right hand with
the thread unwinding to the left, and hold the
end of the thread with your left hand.
Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin
in the bobbin case.
If the bobbin is inserted with the thread unwinding
in the wrong direction, sewing will be done with
an incorrect thread tension.
■ Upper thread tightened up page 128
■ Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric page 129
■ Incorrect thread tension page 131
■ Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed page 132
■ When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat page 135
Troubleshooting 129
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d
While holding the bobbin in place with your
finger, pass the thread through the slit in the
needle plate.
• Hold down the bobbin with your right hand,
and then pull the end of the thread around
the tab with your left hand.
a Tab
b Hold down the bobbin with your right hand.
Pull the thread to pass it through the slit in the
needle plate, then cut it with the cutter.
c Slit
d Cutter
Sewing with the correct thread tension is
possible after the bobbin has been correctly
installed in the bobbin case.
Tangled thread on wrong
side of fabric
■ Symptom
• The thread becomes tangled on the lower
side of the fabric.
• After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made
and sewing cannot continue.
• Looking under the fabric, there is tangled
thread in the bobbin case.
■ Cause
Incorrect upper threading
If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded, the
upper thread passed through the fabric cannot be
firmly pulled up and the upper thread becomes
tangled in the bobbin case, causing a rattling
noise.
■ Remedy/check details
Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the
upper threading.
a
Remove the tangled thread. If it cannot be
removed, cut the thread with scissors.
• For details, refer to “Cleaning the race” on
page 126.
b
Remove the upper thread from the machine.
c
Refer to the following steps to correct the
upper threading.
• If the bobbin was removed from the bobbin
case, refer to “Installing the bobbin” (page
26) and “Remedy/check details” in the
section “
Upper thread tightened up
” (page
128) to correctly install the bobbin.
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
130
d
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
lever.
a Presser foot lever
• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.
e
Press (needle position button) once or
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is at the correct height when the
mark on the handwheel is at the top, as
shown below. Check the handwheel and, if
this mark is not at this position, press
(needle position button) until it is.
a Mark on handwheel
f
While holding the spool with your right hand,
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread under the thread guide.
a Thread guide
g
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled
out, and then pass the thread under the thread
guide cover with your left hand.
a Thread guide cover
h
Thread the machine by guiding the thread
along the path indicated by the number on the
machine.
i
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
guide.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, and pulling the thread into
the guide from right to left.
a Needle bar thread guide
j
Next, use the needle threader to thread the
needle. Continue with the procedure from step
n of “Threading the upper thread” (page 30).
a
1
a
a
Troubleshooting 131
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Incorrect thread tension
■ Symptoms
• Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.
• Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric.
• Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric.
• Symptom 4: The lower thread appears as a straight line on the lower side of the fabric.
• Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack.
■ Cause/remedy/check details
❏ Cause 1
The machine is not correctly threaded.
<With symptoms 1 and 2 described above>
The lower threading is incorrect.
Return the thread tension dial to “4”, and then
refer to “
Upper thread tightened up
” (page 128)
to correct the threading.
<With symptoms 3 through 5 described above>
The upper threading is incorrect.
Return the thread tension dial to “4”, and then
refer to “Tangled thread on wrong side of
fabric” (page 129) to correct the upper
threading.
❏ Cause 2
A needle and thread appropriate for the fabric
are not being used.
The sewing machine needle that should be
used depends on the type of fabric sewn and
the thread thickness.
If a needle and thread appropriate for the fabric
are not being used, the thread tension will not
be adjusted correctly, causing wrinkles in the
fabric or skipped stitches.
• Refer to “Needle types and their uses” (page
38) to check that a needle and thread
appropriate for the fabric are being used.
❏ Cause 3
An appropriate setting on the thread tension
dial is not selected.
Turn the thread tension dial to select an
appropriate thread tension.
The appropriate thread tension differs according
to the type of fabric and thread being used.
* Adjust the thread tension while test sewing
on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as
that used in your project.
Note
z If the upper threading and lower threading
are incorrect, the thread tension cannot be
adjusted correctly, even by turning the
thread tension dial. Check the upper
threading and lower threading first, and then
adjust the thread tension.
• When the lower thread is visible from the
upper side of the fabric. Turn the thread
tension dial to a lower number (toward the
left). (Loosen the thread tension.)
• When the upper thread is visible from the
lower side of the fabric. Turn the thread
tension dial to a higher number (toward the
right). (Tighten the thread tension.)
❏ Symptom 1 ❏ Symptom 3
a Lower side of fabric
b Lower thread visible from
upper side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Upper side of fabric
e Lower thread
f Upper thread visible from
lower side of fabric
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
132
Fabric is caught in the
machine and cannot be
removed
If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and
cannot be removed, the thread may have become
tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure
described below to remove the fabric from the
machine. If the operation could not be completed
according to the procedure, instead of attempting to
complete it forcefully, contact your nearest
authorized service center.
■ Removing the fabric from the machine
a
Immediately stop the sewing machine.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Remove the needle.
If the needle is lowered into the fabric, turn the
handwheel away from you (clockwise) to raise
the needle out of the fabric, and then remove
the needle.
• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 39).
d
Remove the presser foot and presser foot
holder.
• Refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page
41) and “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 43).
e
Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it.
If the fabric can be removed, remove it.
Continue with the following steps to clean the
race.
f
Remove the needle plate cover.
a Needle plate cover
• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 126).
g
Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove
the bobbin.
h
Remove the bobbin case.
If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove
them.
a Bobbin case
i
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
a Cleaning brush
b Race
a
If the fabric could be removed.
Continue with
step
p.
If the fabric could not be removed.
Continue with
step
j.
Troubleshooting 133
4
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j
Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to
loosen the two screws on the needle plate.
Note
z Be careful not to drop the removed screws in
the machine.
k
Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any tangled
threads, and then remove the needle plate.
Remove the fabric and threads from the needle
plate.
If the fabric cannot be removed, even after
completing these steps, contact your nearest
authorized service center.
l
Remove any threads in the race and around
the feed dogs.
m
Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
n
Align the two screw holes in the needle plate
with the two holes at the needle plate
mounting base, and then fit the needle plate
onto the machine.
o
Lightly finger-tighten the screw on the right
side of the needle plate. Then, use the disc-
shaped screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw
on the left side. Finally, firmly tighten the
screw on the right side.
Turn the handwheel to check that the feed dogs
move smoothly and do not contact the edges of
the slots in the needle plate.
a Correct position of feed dogs
b Incorrect position of feed dogs
Note
z Be careful not to drop the removed screws in
the machine.
p
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on
machine as shown below.
Align the S and z marks.
a S mark
b z mark
c Bobbin case
• Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
134
CAUTION
q
Attach the needle plate cover according to
steps
i in “Cleaning the race” (page 127).
r
Check the condition of the needle, and then
install it.
If the needle is in a poor condition, for
example, if it is bent, be sure to install a new
needle.
• Refer to “Checking the needle” (page 39) and
“Replacing the needle” (page 39).
CAUTION
Note
z After completing this procedure, continue
with the following procedure in “Checking
machine operations” to check that the
machine is operating correctly.
Memo
z Since the needle may have been damaged
when the fabric was caught in the machine,
we recommend replacing it with a new one.
■ Checking machine operations
If the needle plate has been removed, check
machine operations to confirm that installation
has been completed correctly.
a
Turn on the machine.
b
Select
02
(middle needle position stitch).
Note
z Do not yet install the presser foot and thread.
c
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise), and look from all sides to
check that the needle falls at the center of the
hole in the needle plate.
If the needle contacts the needle plate, remove
the needle plate, and then install it again,
starting with step
m in “Removing the fabric
from the machine” (page 133).
a Hole in the needle plate
b Handwheel
d
Select zigzag stitch
05
. At this time, increase
the stitch length and width to their maximum
settings.
• For details on changing the settings, refer to
“Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length”
(page 58).
e
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
bar and feed dogs operate correctly.
If the needle or feed dogs contact the needle
plate, the machine may be malfunctioning;
therefore, contact your nearest authorized
service center.
f
Turn off the machine, and then install the
bobbin and presser foot.
• Refer to “Installing the bobbin” (page 26) and
“Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new
bobbin case (part code: XE7560-001),
contact your nearest authorized service
center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Troubleshooting 135
4
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g
Correctly thread the machine.
• For details on threading the machine, refer to
“Upper Threading” (page 28).
Note
z The thread may have become tangled as a
result of incorrect upper threading. Make
sure that the machine is correctly threaded.
h
Perform trial sewing with normal fabric.
Note
z Incorrect sewing may be the result of
incorrect upper threading or sewing thin
fabrics. If there are poor results from the trial
sewing, check the upper threading or the
type of fabric being used.
When the thread became
tangled under the bobbin
winder seat
If the bobbin winding starts when the thread is not
passed under the pretension disk of the bobbin-
winding thread guide correctly, the thread may
become tangled under the bobbin winder seat.
In such a case, wind off the thread according to the
following procedure.
a Thread
b Bobbin winder seat
CAUTION
a
If the thread become tangled under the bobbin
winder seat, press (start/stop button) once
to stop the bobbin winding.
When the foot controller is plugged in, remove
your foot from the foot controller.
a Start/stop button
b
Cut the thread with scissors beside the bobbin-
winding thread guide.
a Bobbin-winding thread guide
a
b
● Do not remove the bobbin winder seat
even if the thread become tangled under
the bobbin winder seat. It may result in
injuries.
● Do not remove the screw of the bobbin
winder presser, otherwise the machine
may be damaged; you cannot wind off the
thread by removing the screw.
a Screw of the bobbin winder presser
a
a
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
136
c
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and
then remove the bobbin from the shaft.
d
Hold the thread end with your left hand, and
wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin
with your right hand as shown below.
e
Wind the bobbin again.
Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk of the bobbin-winding
thread guide correctly (page 24).
Troubleshooting 137
4
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List of symptoms
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
The sewing
machine does not
operate.
The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 17
The start/stop button was not
pressed.
Press the start/stop button. page 52
The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. –
The start/stop button was pressed,
even though the foot controller is
connected.
Do not use the start/stop button
when the foot controller is
connected. To use the start/stop
button, disconnect the foot
controller.
page 52
The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to
the right.
Move the bobbin winder shaft to
the left.
page 24
The needle breaks.
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
page 39The needle clamp screw is loose.
Use the screwdriver to firmly
tighten the screw.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
page 38
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch
that you wish to sew.
page 120
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 57
The fabric is pulled too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –
The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 28
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the needle plate. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
page 22
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
138
The upper thread
breaks.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the
needle bar thread guide).
Correct the upper threading. page 28
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles. –
The selected needle is not
appropriate for the thread being
used.
Select a needle that is appropriate
for the type of thread being used.
page 38
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 57
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin
case, clean the race.
page 126
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
page 39
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the needle plate. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
page 22
The lower thread is
tangled or breaks.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 26
The bobbin is scratched or does not
rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin. –
The thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the race.
page 126
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
page 22
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
Troubleshooting 139
4
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—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
The thread tension
is incorrect.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 28
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 26
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
page 38
The presser foot holder is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the presser foot
holder.
page 43
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 57
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
page 22
The fabric is
wrinkled.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly, or the bobbin is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly thread the upper thread
and correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 26,
page 28
The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 28
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
page 38
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 39
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too long.
Shorten the stitch length or sew
with stabilizer material under the
fabric.
page 59
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 57
Stitches are
skipped.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 28
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that
are appropriate for the type of
fabric being sewn.
page 38
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 39
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 39
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the bobbin case.
Remove the needle plate cover
and clean the race.
page 126
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
140
A high-pitched
noise is made while
sewing.
Dust has accumulated in the feed
dogs or in the bobbin case.
Clean the race. page 126
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 28
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact
your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
page 22
The needle threader
cannot be used.
The needle has not been raised to the
correct position.
Press the needle position button. page 31
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 39
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch
that you wish to sew.
page 120
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 57
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin
case, clean the race.
page 126
The fabric does not
feed.
The feed dogs are lowered.
Slide the drop feed lever to the
right. (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
page 97
The stitch is too short. Lengthen the stitch length. page 59
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch
that you wish to sew.
page 120
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin
case, clean the race.
page 126
Zigzag foot “J” is slanted on a thick
seam at the beginning of stitching.
Use the presser foot locking pin
(black button on the left side) on
zigzag foot “J” to keep the presser
foot level while sewing.
page 63
Nothing appears in
the LCD.
The brightness of the LCD is either
too light or too dark.
Adjust the brightness of the LCD. page 144
While winding the
bobbin, the bobbin
thread was wound
below the bobbin
winder seat.
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
After removing the thread wound
below the bobbin winder seat,
wind the bobbin correctly.
page 135
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
Troubleshooting 141
4
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—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Bobbin thread does
not wind neatly on
the bobbin.
The thread is not passed through the
bobbin-winding thread guide
correctly.
Correctly pass the thread through
the bobbin-winding thread guide.
page 22
Bobbin spins slowly.
Move the sewing speed controller
to the right (so that the speed will
be fast).
page 25
The thread that was pulled out was
not wound onto the bobbin
correctly.
Wind the thread that was pulled
off round the bobbin five or six
times clockwise.
page 24
Fabric being sewn
with the machine
cannot be removed.
Thread is tangled below the needle
plate.
Lift up the fabric and cut the
threads below it, and clean the
race.
page 132
The fabric feeds in
the opposite
direction.
The feed mechanism is damaged.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The upper thread
has tightened up.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 26,
128
The thread is
tangled on the
wrong side of the
fabric.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 28,
129
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
142
Error messages
If (start/stop button) is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed
incorrectly, an icon indicating the error appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear. The icon will
disappear if (OK key) or (Cancel/clear key) is pressed while the icon is displayed.
Error
Code No.
Error Message Probable Cause
E1
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
E2
The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed
while the presser foot was raised.
E3
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle position button was
pressed, or the foot controller was operated while the bobbin winder
shaft is moved to the right.
E4
The start/stop button was pressed while the foot controller was
connected.
E5
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and
the start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is lowered.
E6
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the start/stop button
was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised.
E7
The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed
after a stitch has been deleted.
E8
The bobbin winder is winding the bobbin.
E9
You tried to combine more than 35 character stitches and utility
decorative stitches.
E10
The start/stop button was pressed without connecting the foot controller
while the setting for adjusting the stitch width using the sewing speed
controller is set to [ON].
E11
The twin needle setting is selected while a pattern that cannot be sewn
with the twin needle is selected.
Troubleshooting 143
4
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—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Memo
z If error message “F01”through “F09”appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the
machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
E12
The stitch mode was changed.
This icon appears when the current pattern is to be deleted.
E13
The selected setting cannot be changed with the selected pattern.
E14
A pattern is being saved. Otherwise, the stitch settings are being saved.
Error
Code No.
Error Message Probable Cause
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
144
Nothing appears in the LCD
If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing
machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is
either too light or too dark. If this is the case, perform
the following operation.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
While pressing (Cancel/clear key) in the
operation panel, turn on the sewing machine.
c
Press or (Stitch width keys).
Adjust the brightness of the LCD so that the
screens can be seen.
d
Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on
again.
Operation beep
Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is
performed, a beep is sounded.
■ For a correct operation
One beep is sounded.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed
Two or four beeps are sounded.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because
the thread is tangled
The sewing machine continues to beep for four
seconds. The machine automatically stops.
Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and
correct it before continuing to sew.
Cancelling the operation beep
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
beep each time an operation panel key is pressed.
This setting can be changed so that the machine does
not beep.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
c
Press or (Stitch length keys) until is
displayed.
X The screen for changing the beep setting
appears.
Troubleshooting 145
4
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d
Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
.
To return to , press or (Stitch width
keys).
X The machine is now set so that it will not
beep.
e
Press (Cancel/clear key) or (OK key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
146
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
Index
Numerics
1/4 inch quilting foot ....................................................10
1/4 inch quilting foot with guide
...................................10
2-point zigzag stitch
......................................................72
3-point zigzag stitch
......................................................72
A
accessories ......................................................................9
accessory bag
.................................................................9
adjustable zipper/piping foot
.........................................10
air vent
.........................................................................11
appliqué
.......................................................................94
automatic reinforcement stitching
.................................60
automatic reverse stitching
............................................60
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
...................13
B
bar tack .......................................................................100
baseline
........................................................................76
basic stitching
...............................................................75
blind hem stitch
............................................................77
blind stitch foot
...............................................................9
bobbin
..................................................................... 9, 26
bobbin case
................................................................126
bobbin cover
......................................................... 12, 27
bobbin thread
...............................................................26
pulling up
...............................................................36
bobbin winder
..............................................................11
bobbin winder shaft spring
............................................23
bobbin-winding
....................................................... 8, 22
bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disk
.. 11, 24
brightness
.....................................................................21
built-in stitches
...............................................................8
button fitting foot
..................................................... 9, 84
button sewing
........................................................ 79, 84
buttonhole foot
........................................................ 9, 83
buttonhole lever
............................................ 12, 81, 101
buttonhole stitching
......................................................79
C
cancel/clear key ............................................................13
care
............................................................................126
changing machine settings
............................................19
changing sewing direction
............................................62
changing the settings
.....................................................19
character stitches
........................................ 67, 110, 124
character/utility decorative stitch key
............................13
checking patterns
........................................................112
cleaning
......................................................................126
cleaning brush
....................................................... 9, 126
combining patterns
.....................................................111
crazy quilt stitching
.......................................................95
cross-stitch
..................................................................110
cross-stitches
...................................................... 110, 124
curves
...........................................................................62
cylindrical pieces
..........................................................46
D
decorative satin stitches ..................................... 110, 124
decorative stitches
............................................. 110, 124
decorative stitching
.....................................................103
direct selection
.............................................................66
disc-shaped screwdriver
..................................................9
E
elastic tape ....................................................................91
electrical outlet
.............................................................17
error messages
............................................................142
even seam allowance
....................................................64
extra spool pin
......................................................... 9, 34
eyelet
..........................................................................102
eyelet punch
................................................... 9, 82, 102
F
fagoting .......................................................................104
features
...........................................................................8
feed dog position switch
........................................ 11, 98
feed dogs
............................................................... 12, 97
flatbed attachment
........................................................11
flipping
.......................................................................113
foot controller
.......................................................... 9, 52
foot controller jack
........................................................11
free-arm sewing
............................................................46
free-motion quilting
......................................................97
H
handwheel .............................................................11, 51
heirloom stitching
.......................................................107
I
included accessories .......................................................9
J
joining ........................................................................107
joining stitch
.................................................................93
L
LCD ........................................................13, 18, 21, 144
brightness
...................................................... 21, 144
lower threading
........................................................ 8, 26
M
machine settings ...........................................................19
main power switch
................................................ 11, 17
Index 147
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
maintenance ...............................................................126
manual threading
..........................................................33
memory key
..................................................................13
mirror imaging
............................................................113
monogramming foot
.......................................................9
N
needle ...........................................................................37
needle bar thread guide
................................................12
needle clamp screw
............................................... 12, 40
needle mode selection key
............................................13
needle plate
........................................................... 12, 64
needle plate cover
........................................................12
needle position
...................................................... 58, 76
needle position button
..................................................12
needle position key
.......................................................13
needle set
.......................................................................9
needle stop position
......................................................60
needle threader lever
....................................................12
needle threading
...........................................................31
non stick foot
................................................................10
number selection
..........................................................66
numeric keys
................................................................13
O
OK key .........................................................................13
open toe foot
................................................................10
openings
.....................................................................100
operation beep
............................................................144
operation buttons
................................................... 11, 12
operation manual
............................................................9
operation panel
...................................................... 11, 13
optional accessories
......................................................10
overcasting foot
....................................................... 9, 71
overcasting stitches
.......................................................71
P
patchwork stitching .......................................................95
patterns
.......................................................................110
piecing
..........................................................................95
pocket corners
............................................................100
positioning fabric
..........................................................51
power supply
................................................................16
power supply jack
.................................................. 11, 17
preset utility stitch
.................................................. 66, 68
preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
.............................13
presser foot
............................................................ 12, 41
presser foot holder
................................................. 12, 43
presser foot lever
.................................................... 11, 12
Q
quick reference guide .....................................................9
quilting
.........................................................................96
quilting foot
........................................................... 10, 97
quilting guide
......................................................... 10, 96
R
race ............................................................................126
realigning
....................................................................116
realigning patterns
......................................................116
reinforcement stitching
................................. 54, 60, 100
repeat sewing patterns
................................................112
replacing the needle
.............................................. 37, 39
retrieving a pattern
......................................................115
reverse stitching
............................................................54
reverse/reinforcement stitch button
...............................12
S
safety instructions ...........................................................1
satin stitches
...................................................... 110, 124
satin stitching
................................................................98
saved patterns
........................................................ 66, 68
saving patterns
............................................................114
scallop stitching
..........................................................105
screwdriver
.............................................................. 9, 40
seam ripper
.............................................................. 9, 82
selecting stitching
.........................................................67
settings key
............................................................ 13, 19
sewing machine needles
...............................................37
sewing speed
................................................................52
sewing speed controller
......................................... 12, 98
shell tuck stitch
...........................................................106
side cutter
.............................................................. 10, 73
sleeves
........................................................................100
smocking
....................................................................105
spool cap
.......................................................... 9, 23, 29
spool net
.........................................................................9
spool pin
......................................................... 11, 23, 29
start/stop button
..................................................... 12, 52
starting to sew
...............................................................52
stitch guide foot
............................................................10
stitch length
..................................................................59
stitch length keys
..........................................................13
stitch mode
...................................................................66
stitch pattern plate
..........................................................9
stitch settings
..............................................................120
stitch width
...................................................................58
controlling
..............................................................98
stitch width keys
...........................................................13
straight stitch
...............................................................120
stretch fabrics
......................................................... 63, 91
T
thick fabrics ..................................................................62
thin fabrics
....................................................................63
thread cutter
.................................................................11
thread guide
..................................................................11
thread guide cover
........................................................11
thread take-up lever
......................................................11
thread tension
...............................................................57
thread tension adjustment
.............................................57
thread tension dial
................................................. 11, 57
trial sewing
...................................................................62
triple stretch stitch
.......................................................100
troubleshooting
...........................................................128
twin needle
....................................................... 9, 33, 40
148
APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
—
U
upper thread .................................................................28
upper thread tension
.....................................................57
upper threading
....................................................... 8, 28
utility decorative stitches
............................. 67, 110, 125
utility stitch key
.............................................................13
utility stitches
....................................................... 66, 120
W
walking foot .................................................... 10, 44, 96
wide table
.............................................................. 10, 46
wing needle
................................................................107
Z
zigzag foot ............................................................... 9, 72
zipper foot
......................................................................9
zipper insertion
.............................................................86
English
888-V14
Printed in Vietnam
XE2408-401
6
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