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CUTTING BASE MOLDING (Fig. 16)
Base moldings and many other moldings
can be cut on a miter saw. The setup of the
saw depends on base molding characteristics
and applications, as shown. Perform practice
cuts on scrap materials to achieve best
results.
1.Always make sure moldings rest firmly
against fence and table (Fig. 16). Use
hold-down clamp provided, crown molding
vise, or C-clamps and place tape on the
area being clamped to avoid marks on the
workpiece.
2. Reduce splintering by taping the cut area
prior to making the cut. Mark the cut line
directly on the tape.
3. Splintering typically happens due to
Fig, 16 Molding lyingfiat on miter table
(beforeclamping)
Miter Saw
Motding standing up against fence
(before clamping) _
Fence .......
Miter at 45°,
Bevel
Miter Saw
incorrect blade style, dulI blade, thinness of workpiece, or improperly dried wood.
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4.
5.
6.
7.
NOTE: Always perform a dry run out so you can determine if the operation
being attempted is possible before power is applied to miter saw.
Place the workpiece fiat on the miter table with one edge securely against the
fence. If the board is warped, place the convex side against the fence. If the
concave edge of the board is against the fence, the board could collapse on the
blade at the end of the cut and jam the blade (Fig. 19 and 20).
Align the "red laser line" to touch the right edge of your pencil line on the
workpiece.
Use the hold down clamp to secure workpiece against saw table and fence.
When cutting long workpieces, support the opposite end of the workpiece with a
roller stand or with another work surface that is level with the saw table.
COMPOUND MITER CUTTING
(Fig. 17)
A compound miter cut is a cut made
using a miter angle and a bevel angle
at the same time. This type of cut is
used for decorative moldings, picture
frames and other fine joinery.
To make this type of cut, the miter
table must be rotated to the correct
miter angle and the saw arm must be
tilted to the correct bevel angle.
ALWAYS take special care when Compound45°Bevet,
45° Miter Cut
making compound miter cuts due to
the interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are dependent on one another. Each time
you adjust the miter setting, you change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each
time you adjust the bevel setting, you change the effect of the miter setting.
Fig. 171
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COMPOUND MITER CUTTING cont. (Fig. 17)
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The first angle setting should
be checked after setting the second angle, since adjusting the second angle affects
the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have been obtained, ALWAYS
make a test cut in scrap material BEFORE making a finish cut in good material.
To Make a Compound Miter Cut with your Miter Saw
1. Unplug the saw.
I A WARNING: Failure to unplug your saw could result in accidental starting
causing serious injury.
2. Release the saw arm by pulling out the locking pin.
3. Raise miter lock lever to loosen the miter table.
4. Hold the base of the saw arm firmly and use it to rotate the miter table while
holding the saw base steady.
5.You can quickly locate 0% 15°, 22.5 °, 30° and 45 ° left or right by the stops
or clicks, located and/or color coded at the above angle settings.
6. Once you have the miter table setting you want, tighten the miter lock lever by
pushing it down.
,4XWARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, ALWAYS tighten the miter
lock lever securely BEFORE making a cut. Failure to do so could result in
movement of the control arm or miter table while making a cut.
7. To set the bevel angle, loosen the bevel lock knob (Fig. lb) by turning the knob
counterclockwise.
8. Tilt the saw arm to the desired bevel angle as shown on the bevel scale. Bevel
angles can be set from 0° to 45 ° left bevel.
9. Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle, securely tighten the bevel
Iock knob.
I0. Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge securely against the
fence. If the board is warped, place the convex side against the fence. If the
concave edge of the board is against the fence, the board could collapse on the
blade at the end of the cut and jam the blade (Figs. 19, 20 on page 34).
11. Align the "red laser line" to touch the right edge of your pencil line on the
workpiece.
12. Use the hold down clamp to secure workpiece against saw table and fence.
13. When cutting long workpieces, support the opposite end of the workpiece with a
roller stand or with another work surface that is level with the saw table.
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CAUTION: NEVER use another person as an additional support for a J
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic saw table, or to help feed,
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support, or pull the workpiece.
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2-1-06
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