Loading ...
Loading ...
Loading ...
Rev 05/16 #730021
Symptom Problem Solution
If you are uncomfortable working with electricity, running electrical supply
wire or installing a circuit breaker, please consult a licensed electrician.
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
©2016 Cadet Printed in USA
Heater
doesn’t
work at all.
1. Supply connections are
loose.
2. Heater has tripped one of
its high-temperature safety
shutoffs.
3. Heater has tripped its
secondary high-temperature
safety shutoff.
4. Supply circuit is faulty.
1. Turn off power at main disconnect panel. Inspect and/or
tighten all the wire connectors inside the heater and at any con-
nection points inside junction boxes or at the wall thermostat.
2. TO RESET: Turn power off at main disconnect panel. Allow
20 minutes to cool. Make sure heater is not blocked and is
clean. Restore power. If the high-temperature safety shutoff
trips more than once a day, replace the heater.
3. Replace heater.
4. Call a licensed electrician.
Breaker
trips imme-
diately after
installing
heater.
1. A short circuit exists in
the electrical supply wires or
heater wiring.
2. Circuit breaker and heater
are not the same voltage.
3. Circuit is overloaded.
4. Supply circuit is faulty.
1. An incorrect connection in the heater or electrical supply
wires may cause sparking or arcing. Inspect all heater and
electrical supply wiring insulation for damage or call an
electrician.
2. Double check the voltage of the heater to make sure it
matches the voltage of the circuit. Replace heater with a model
that is 240 volts.
3. Use a lower wattage heater, or reduce the number of heaters
on the circuit.
4. Call a licensed electrician.
Heater
blows
cold air or
doesn’t get
hot.
1. Circuit breaker is 120 volts
and heater is 240 volts.
2. Element has failed.
3. Only one side heats and
the other side has tripped one
of its high-temperature safety
shutoffs (Model CST only).
1. Double check the voltage of the heater to make sure it
matches the voltage of the circuit. Replace heater with a model
that is 120 volts.
2. Replace heater.
3. TO RESET: Turn power off at main disconnect panel. Allow
20 minutes to cool. Make sure heater is not blocked and is
clean. Restore power. If the high-temperature safety shutoff
trips more than once a day, replace the heater.
Heater
smells after
installation
or not being
used.
1. Odor from element
manufacturing process.
2. Dust or lint inside the
heater.
3. Supply connections are
loose.
1. On initial start-up, the heater may cause an odor due to the
manufacturing process. It typically goes away within several
hours.
2. Clean heater (see “MAINTAINING YOUR HEATER” on page
7 for instructions).
3. Turn off power at main disconnect panel. Inspect and/or
tighten all the wire connectors inside the heater and at any con-
nection points inside junction boxes or at the wall thermostat.
Fan/motor
doesn’t spin
or spins
slow.
1. Circuit breaker is 120 volts
and heater is 240 volts.
2. Defective motor or motor
out of alignment.
1. Double check the voltage of the heater to make sure it
matches the voltage of the circuit. Replace heater with a model
that is 120 volts.
2. Replace motor.
Heater
doesn’t turn
off.
1. Thermostat is defective.
2. No thermostat hooked up
to control heater.
3. Incorrect heater wattage
for room size.
1. Replace thermostat.
2. A thermostat is required for all Com-Pak heaters. Purchase a
built-in or wall thermostat for your heater.
3. Install higher wattage model or additional heaters if circuit
allows.
8