Contents
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY...............................1
Important Safety Information..............................2
Important Safety Precautions..........................2
Important Message to Parents.........................2
Accessories & Modifications ..............................3
Safety Labels .......................................................4
OPERATING CONTROLS .............................5
Operation Component Locations ........................6
BEFORE RIDING ............................................7
Are You Ready to Ride? .....................................8
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?..... ...............9
Pre-ride Inspection ..........................................9
BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS ......11
Safe Riding Precautions................................12
Starting & Stopping the Engine ........................13
Preparation ....................................................13
Starting Procedure ........................................13
Flooded Engine .............................................13
How to Stop the Engine ................................14
Shifting Gears....................................................15
Break-in Guidelines ..........................................16
SERVICING YOUR HONDA........................17
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance .......................18
Maintenance Safety ...........................................19
Important Safety Precautions........................19
Maintenance Schedule ......................................20
General Competition Maintenance ...................22
Before & After Competition Maintenance........26
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance .....26
After Competition Maintenance ...................26
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations..................28
Seat ....................................................................29
Fuel Tank...........................................................30
Subframe ...........................................................32
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System .......................................................34
Engine Oil .........................................................36
Transmission Oil ...............................................39
Coolant ..............................................................41
Air Cleaner ........................................................43
Crankcase Breather ...........................................45
Engine
Throttle ..............................................................46
Engine Idle Speed .............................................48
Clutch System ...................................................49
Hot Start Lever ..................................................51
Spark Plug .........................................................52
Valve Clearance.................................................53
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin..........................62
Chassis
Suspension.........................................................70
Brakes................................................................75
Wheels...............................................................79
Tires & Tubes....................................................80
Drive Chain .......................................................82
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler ........................................85
Additional Maintenance Procedures .................88
Appearance Care ...............................................90
ADJUSTMENTS FOR COMPETITION .....93
Front Suspension Adjustments..........................94
Rear Suspension Adjustments.........................102
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions .......................................................106
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines.................107
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips..........110
Chassis Adjustments........................................123
Gearing ............................................................124
Tire Selection for Track Conditions................125
Personal Fit Adjustments ................................126
TIPS ................................................................127
Transporting Your Motorcycle ........................128
Storing Your Honda.........................................129
You & the Environment ..................................130
Troubleshooting...............................................131
TECHNICAL INFORMATION ..................133
Vehicle Identification ......................................134
Specifications ..................................................135
Torque Specifications......................................137
Oxygenated Fuels............................................140
Competition Logbook .....................................141
Optional Parts List ..........................................143
Spare Parts & Equipment ................................145
Wiring Diagram...............................................146
CONSUMER INFORMATION ...................147
Authorized Manuals ........................................148
Contacting Honda............................................149
Your Honda Dealer..........................................150
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only) .............151
INDEX ............................................................152
QUICK REFERENCE
Contents
2012
Honda CRF150R/RB
OWNER’S MANUAL & COMPETITION HANDBOOK
Introduction
Congratulations on choosing your Honda CRF
motocross motorcycle.
When you own a Honda, you’re part of a
worldwide family of satisfied customers —
people who appreciate Honda’s reputation for
building quality into every product.
Your CRF is a high performance racing
motorcycle that utilizes the latest motocross
technology and is intended for competition use in
sanctioned, closed-course events by experienced
riders only.
Be aware that motocross is a physically
demanding sport that requires more than just a
fine motorcycle. To do well, you must be in
excellent physical condition and be a skillful
rider. For the best results, work diligently on
your physical conditioning and practice
frequently.
Before riding, take time to get acquainted with
your CRF and how it works. To protect your
investment, we urge you to take
responsibility for keeping your CRF well
maintained. Scheduled service is a must, of
course. But it’s just as important to observe the
break-in guidelines, and perform all the pre-ride
and other periodic checks detailed in this manual.
You should also read the owner ’s manual before
you ride. It’s full of facts,
instructions, safety information, and helpful tips.
To make it easy to use, the manual
contains a table of contents, a detailed list of
topics at the beginning of each section, and an
index at the back of the book.
As you read this manual, you will find
information that is preceded by a
symbol. This information is intended to help you
avoid damage to your Honda, other property, or
the environment.
Unless you are mechanically qualified and have
the proper tools, you should see your dealer for
the service and adjustment procedures discussed
in this manual.
The official Honda Service Manual for your CRF
is available (page 148). It is the same manual
your dealer uses. If you plan to do any service
on your CRF beyond the standard maintenance
procedures in this manual, you will find the
Service Manual a valuable reference.
If you have any questions, or if you ever need a
special service or repairs, remember that your
Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is
dedicated to your complete satisfaction.
Please report any change of address or ownership
to your dealer so we will be able to
contact you concerning important product
information.
You may also want to visit our website at
USA: www.powersports.honda.com
Canada: www.honda.ca
Happy riding!
NOTICE
California Proposition 65 Warning
WARNING: This product contains or emits
chemicals known to the State of California to
cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm.
Introduction
A Few Words About Safety
Your safety, and the safety of others, is very important. And operating this motorcycle safely is an important responsibility.
To help you make informed decisions about safety, this manual contains a section devoted to
Motorcycle Safety, as well as a number of Safety Messages
throughout the manual.
Safety Messages are preceded by a safety alert symbol and one of three signal words:
DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.
These signal words mean:
You WILL be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
Of course, it is not practical or possible to warn you about all hazards associated with operating or maintaining a motorcycle. You must use your own good
judgement.
Safety Messages
DANGER
WARNING
CAUTION
Motorcycle Safety
This section presents some of the most important
information and recommendations to help you
ride your CRF safely. Please take a few
moments to read these pages. This section also
includes information about the location of safety
labels on your CRF.
Important Safety Information...............................2
Important Safety Precautions ...........................2
Important Message to Parents ..........................2
Accessories & Modifications ...............................3
Safety Labels ........................................................4
Motorcycle Safety 1
Important Safety Information
Important Safety Precautions
Your CRF can provide many years of pleasure, if
you take responsibility for your own safety and
understand the challenges you can meet in
competitive racing.
As an experienced rider, you know there is much
you can do to protect yourself when you ride.
The following are a few precautions we consider
to be most important.
Never Carry a Passenger.
Your CRF is designed for one operator only .
Carrying a passenger can cause an crash in which
you and others can be hurt.
Wear Protective Gear.
Whether you’re practicing to improve your skills,
or riding in competition, always wear an
approved helmet, eye protection, and proper
protective gear.
Take Time to Get to Know Your CRF.
Because every motorcycle is unique, take time to
become thoroughly familiar with how this one
operates and responds to your commands before
placing your machine, and yourself, in
competition.
Learn and Respect Your Limits.
Never ride beyond your personal abilities or
faster than conditions warrant. Remember that
alcohol, drugs, illness and fatigue can reduce
your ability to perform well and ride safely.
Don’t Drink and Ride.
Alcohol and riding don’t mix. Even one drink
can reduce your ability to respond to changing
conditions, and your reaction time gets worse
with every additional drink. So don ’t drink and
ride, and don’t let your friends drink and ride
either.
Keep your Honda in Safe Condition.
Maintaining your CRF properly is critical to your
safety. A loose bolt, for example, can cause a
breakdown in which you can be seriously
injured.
2 Motorcycle Safety
Important Message to Parents
Your child's safely is very important to Honda.
That’s why we urge you to read this message
before you let any young person ride this
motorcycle. Competitive riding can be fun. But
bad judgement can result in injury, and we don’t
want that to happen. As a parent, you can help
prevent accidents by making good decisions
about when and how your youngster rides this
motorcycle.
• Remember, this CRF is designed only for
competition use by experienced junior riders.
It is an operator-only model, and the
maximum load capacity is 150 lb (68 kg).
Rider weight must not exceed this limit.
• The junior rider must be tall enough to hold
the motorcycle up while straddling it with
both feet on the ground. He or she must also
be strong enough to pick up the motorcycle if
it is on its side.
• The parent and junior rider must be fully
familiar with the motorcycle, the motorcycle
controls and control functions. Both must also
fully understand everything in this manual
before riding begins.
• For your child's safely, be sure to make
pre-practice and pre-race inspections, and
impress on the junior rider the importance of
checking all the items thoroughly before
riding.
Accessories & Modifications
Motorcycle Safety 3
Accessories & Modifications
Installing non-Honda accessories, removing
original equipment, or modifying your CRF in
any way that would change its design or
operation, could seriously impair your CRF ’s
handling, stability, and braking, making it unsafe
to ride.
WARNING
Improper accessories or modifications
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding modifications and
accessories.
4 Motorcycle Safety
(For Canada)
Safety Labels
Read this label carefully and don ’t remove it.
If the label comes off or becomes hard to read, contact your dealer for replacement.
Operating Controls 5
Operating Controls
Read this section carefully before you ride. It
presents the location of the basic controls on
your CRF.
Operation Component Locations .........................6
6 Operating Controls
Operation Component Locations
clutch lever
hot start lever
front brake lever
engine stop button
throttle grip
choke knob
fuel valve shift lever
kickstarter
rear brake pedal
Before Riding 7
Before each ride, you need to make sure you and
your Honda are both ready to ride. To help get
you prepared, this section discusses how to
evaluate your riding readiness, and what items
you should check on your CRF.
For information about suspension, carburetor,
and other adjustments, see page 93.
Before Riding
Are You Ready to Ride?.......................................8
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride? .....................9
Pre-ride Inspection ...........................................9
8 Before Riding
Are You Ready to Ride?
Before riding your CRF for the first time, we
strongly recommend that you read this owner ’s
manual, make sure you understand the safety
messages, and know how to operate the controls.
Before each ride, it’s also important to make sure
you and your CRF are both ready to ride.
For information about suspension, carburetor,
and other adjustments, see page 93.
Whether you’re preparing for competition or for
practice, always make sure you are.
• In good physical and mental condition
• Free of alcohol and drugs
• Wearing an approved helmet, eye protection,
and other appropriate riding gear
Although complete protection is not possible,
wearing the proper gear can reduce the chance or
severity of injury when you ride.
WARNING
Not wearing a helmet increases the
chance of serious injury or death in a
crash.
Be sure you always wear a helmet, eye
protection and other protective apparel
when you ride.
Before Riding 9
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?
Competitive riding can be tough on a motorcycle,
so it’s important to inspect your CRF and correct
any problems you find before each ride. Check
the following items (page numbers are at the
right):
Pre-ride Inspection
Check the following before each ride:
• Engine oil level .............................................37
• Transmission oil level ...................................40
• Fuel line for condition ..................................34
• Coolant for proper level................................41
• Cooling system and hoses for condition.......42
• Spark plug for proper heat range, carbon
fouling and spark plug wire terminal for
looseness .......................................................52
• Air cleaner for condition and
contamination................................................43
• Clutch lever adjustment and freeplay ...........49
• Hot start lever freeplay .................................51
• Breather drain for cleaning ...........................45
• Steering head bearing and related parts
for condition..................................................88
• Carburetor throttle operation ........................46
• Tires for damage or improper inflation
pressure ........................................................80
• Spokes for looseness.....................................79
• Rim locks for looseness ................................79
• Front and rear suspension for proper
operation ..................................................70,71
• Front and rear brakes, check operation ........75
• Drive chain for correct slack and adequate
lubrication .....................................................82
• Drive chain sliders and drive chain rollers
for damage or wear ..................................82,83
• Exhaust pipe/Muffler inspection...................85
• Every possible part for looseness (such as
cylinder head nuts, engine mounting
bolts/nuts, axle nuts, handlebar holder bolts,
fork bridge pinch bolts, drive chain adjuster,
drive chain guide, wire harness connectors,
kickstarter mounting bolt) .............89,137–139
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before riding
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always perform a pre-ride inspection
before every ride and correct any
problems.
10 Before Riding
Basic Operating Instructions 11Basic Operating Instructions 11
Basic Operating Instructions
This section gives basic information on how to
start and stop your engine as well as break-in
guidelines.
Safe Riding Precautions .................................12
Starting & Stopping the Engine .........................13
Preparation .....................................................13
Starting Procedure ..........................................13
Flooded Engine ..............................................13
How to Stop the Engine .................................14
Shifting Gears.....................................................15
Break-in Guidelines ...........................................16
12 Basic Operating Instructions12 Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions
Safe Riding Precautions
Before riding your CRF for the first time, please
review the
Important Safety Precaution
beginning on page 2 and the previous section,
titled
Before Riding.
For your safety, avoid starting or operating the
engine in an enclosed area such as a garage.
Your CRF’s exhaust contains poisonous carbon
monoxide gas which can collect rapidly in an
enclosed area and cause illness or death.
(1)
(2)
Basic Operating Instructions 13Basic Operating Instructions 13
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described below.
Your CRF can be kickstarted with the
transmission in gear by pulling in the clutch lever
before operating the kickstarter.
Preparation
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral.
Starting Procedure
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described as follows.
Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant
levels before starting the engine (pages 37,40,41).
Snapping the throttle or fast idling for more than
5 minutes at normal air temperature may cause
exhaust pipe discoloration.
Cold Engine Starting
1. Turn the fuel valve (1) ON.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. If the temperature is 95°F (35°C) or below,
pull the choke knob (2) fully out.
4. If the temperature is below 32°F (0°C), open
the throttle two or three times. (The engine
requires a richer mixture for starting in cold
weather. When the throttle is so opened, the
accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the
cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold
weather.)
5. With the throttle closed, operate the
kickstarter starting from the top of the
kickstarter stroke, and kick through to the
bottom of the stroke with a rapid, continuous
motion.
(Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is
equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive
fuel will be charged into the engine, and the
spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is
opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel
in the engine makes kickstarting difficult.)
6. About a minute after the engine starts, push
the choke knob all the way to fully OFF .
If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.
W
arm Engine Starting
1. Turn the fuel valve ON.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. Pull the hot start lever (1) and kick-start the
engine. (Do not open the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
(1) fuel valve (2) choke knob
(1)
(1) hot start lever
Starting the engine after a stall during riding or
after a fall
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the
engine (Do not open the throttle).
3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
Flooded Engine
If the engine fails to start after repeated attempts,
it may be flooded with excess fuel. To clear a
flooded engine:
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately ten times
very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from
the engine.
3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the
engine. (Do not open the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
14 Basic Operating Instructions
Starting & Stopping the Engine
14 Basic Operating Instructions
How to Stop the Engine
(1)
(2)
(1) throttle (2) engine stop button
Normal Engine Stop
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
3. Lightly open the throttle (1) two or three
times, and then close it.
4. Push and hold the engine stop button (2) until
the engine stops completely.
Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the
carburetor to overflow, result in hard starting.
Emer
gency Engine Stop
To stop the engine in an emer gency, push and
hold the engine stop button.
Basic Operating Instructions 15
Shifting Gears
Improper shifting may damage the engine,
transmission, and drive train.
Downshifting can help slow your motorcycle,
especially on downhills. However, downshifting
when engine rpm is too high can cause engine
damage.
To prevent transmission damage, do not coast or
tow the motorcycle for long distances with the
engine off.
NOTICE
NOTICE
NOTICE
1. After the engine has been warmed up, the
motorcycle is ready for riding.
2. While the engine is idling, pull in the clutch
lever and depress the shift lever to shift into
1st (low) gear.
3. Slowly release the clutch lever and at the
same time gradually increase engine speed by
opening the throttle. Coordination of the
throttle and clutch lever will assure a smooth
positive start.
When moving off from a standing start, be careful
not to use too much throttle. The motorcycle may
“wheelie” over backwards.
4. When the motorcycle attains a moderate
speed, close the throttle, pull in the clutch
lever and shift to 2nd gear by raising the shift
lever.
5. This sequence is repeated to progressively
shift to 3rd, 4th, 5th (top) gear. Raise the shift
lever to shift to a higher gear and depress it to
downshift. Each stroke of the shift lever
engages the next gear in sequence. The shift
lever automatically returns to the horizontal
position when released.
NOTICE
16 Basic Operating Instructions
Break-in Guidelines
Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and
performance by paying extra attention to how
you ride during the first operating day or 15
miles (25 km).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and
rapid acceleration.
This same procedure should be followed each
time when:
• piston is replaced
• piston rings are replaced
• cylinder is replaced
• crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced
Servicing Your Honda 17
Servicing Your Honda
Keeping your CRF well maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
protect your investment, get maximum
performance, avoid breakdowns, and have more
fun.
To help keep your CRF in good shape, this
section includes a Maintenance Schedule for
required servicing and step-by-step instructions
for specific maintenance tasks. You’ll also find
important safety precautions, information on oils,
and tips for keeping your Honda looking good.
An ICM (Ignition Control Module) system is
used on this motorcycle; consequently, routine
ignition timing adjustment is unnecessary. If you
want to check the ignition timing, refer to the
Honda Service Manual (page 148).
An optional tool kit may be available. Check
with your dealer’s parts department.
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance ........................18
Maintenance Safety ............................................19
Important Safety Precautions .........................19
Maintenance Schedule .......................................20
General Competition Maintenance ....................22
Before & After Competition Maintenance.........26
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance.......26
After Competition Maintenance ....................26
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations...................28
Seat ....................................................................29
Fuel Tank............................................................30
Subframe ............................................................32
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System ........................................................34
Engine Oil ..........................................................36
Transmission Oil ................................................39
Coolant ...............................................................41
Air Cleaner .........................................................43
Crankcase Breather ............................................45
Engine
Throttle ...............................................................46
Engine Idle Speed ..............................................48
Clutch System ....................................................49
Hot Start Lever ...................................................51
Spark Plug ..........................................................52
Valve Clearance..................................................53
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin ...........................62
Chassis
Suspension..........................................................70
Front Suspension Inspection ..........................70
Rear Suspension Inspection ...........................71
Recommended Fork Oil .................................72
Fork Oil Change.............................................72
Brakes.................................................................75
Wheels................................................................79
Tires & Tubes.....................................................80
Drive Chain ........................................................82
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler .........................................85
Additional Maintenance Procedures ..................88
Appearance Care ................................................90
18 Servicing Your Honda
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before you
ride can cause a crash in which you can
be seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the inspection and
maintenance recommendations and
schedules in this owner’s manual.
The Importance of Maintenance
Keeping your CRF well-maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
get maximum performance during each moto.
Careful pre-ride inspections and good
maintenance are especially important because
your CRF is designed to be ridden in of f-road
competition.
Remember, proper maintenance is your
responsibility. Be sure to inspect your CRF
before each ride and follow the Maintenance
Schedule in this section.
Servicing Your Honda 19
Maintenance Safety
This section includes instructions on how to
perform some important maintenance tasks.
Some of the most important safety precautions
follow. However, we cannot warn you of every
conceivable hazard that can arise in performing
maintenance. Only you can decide whether or
not you should perform a given task.
Important Safety Precautions
• Make sure the engine is off before you begin
any maintenance or repairs.
This will help eliminate several potential
hazards:
Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine
exhaust.
Be sure there is adequate ventilation
whenever you operate the engine.
Burns from hot motorcycle parts. Let the
engine and exhaust system cool before
touching.
Injury from moving parts. Do not run the
engine unless instructed to do so.
• Read the instructions before you begin, and
make sure you have the tools and skills
required.
• To help prevent the motorcycle from falling
over, park it on a firm, level surface, using an
optional workstand or a maintenance stand to
provide support.
• To reduce the possibility of a fire or
explosion, be careful when working around
gasoline. Use only a non-flammable (high
flash point) solvent such as kerosene —not
gasoline— to clean parts. Keep cigarettes,
sparks, and flames away from all fuel-related
parts.
WARNING
Failure to properly follow maintenance
instructions and precautions can cause
you to be seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the procedures and
precautions in this owner’s manual.
20 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Schedule
To maintain the safety and reliability of your
CRF, regular inspection and service is required as
shown in the Maintenance Schedule that follows.
The Maintenance Schedule lists items that can be
performed with basic mechanical skills and hand
tools. Procedures for these items are provided in
this manual.
The Maintenance Schedule also includes items
that involve more extensive procedures and may
require special training, tools, and equipment.
Therefore, we recommend that you have your
dealer perform these tasks unless you have
advanced mechanical skills and the required
tools. Procedures for items in this schedule are
provided in a service manual available for
purchase from your dealer (page 148).
Service intervals in the maintenance schedule are
expressed in terms of races and riding hours. To
avoid overlooking required service, we urge you
to develop a convenient way to record the
number of races and/or hours you ride.
If you do not feel capable of performing a given
task or need assistance, remember that your
Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is fully
equipped to maintain and repair it. If you decide
to do your own maintenance, use only Honda
Genuine Parts or their equivalents for repair or
replacement to ensure the best quality and
reliability.
Perform the pre-ride inspection (page 9) at each
scheduled maintenance period.
Summary of Maintenance Schedule Notes and
Procedures:
Notes:
1. Clean after every moto for dusty riding
conditions.
2. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires
mechanical skill.
3. Replace after the first break-in ride.
4. Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5. Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch
discs and plates are replaced.
Maintenance Procedures:
I: inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate, or replace,
if necessary
C: clean
A: adjust
L: lubricate
R: replace
Servicing Your Honda 21
Maintenance Schedule
ITEMS
THROTTLE OPERATION
HOT STARTER
AIR FILTER
CRANKCASE BREATHER
SPARK PLUG
VALVE CLEARANCE/DECOMPRESSOR SYSTEM
ENGINE OIL
ENGINE OIL FILTER
ENGINE IDLE SPEED
PISTON AND PISTON RINGS
PISTON PIN
TRANSMISSION OIL
RADIATOR COOLANT
COOLING SYSTEM
DRIVE CHAIN
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER
DRIVE CHAIN ROLLER
DRIVE SPROCKET
DRIVEN SPROCKET
BRAKE FLUID
BRAKE PADS WEAR
BRAKE SYSTEM
CLUTCH SYSTEM
CONTROL CABLES
EXHAUST PIPE/MUFFLER
SUSPENSION
SWINGARM/SHOCK LINKAGE
FORK OIL
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS
WHEELS/TIRES
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
(NOTE 1)
(NOTE 4)
(NOTE 3)
(NOTE 3)
(NOTE 5)
(NOTE 2)
(NOTE 2)
(NOTE 5)
(NOTE 3)
I
I
C
I
I
I
I
I
I
I,L
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I,L
I
I
I
I
R
L
R
I
R
R
R
R
R
46
51
43
45
52
53
36
37
48
62
64
39
41
41
82
82
83
84
84
76
78
75
49
88
85
70, 71
25, 71
72
89, 137-139
79, 80-81
88I
FREQUENCY
NOTE Ref. Page
Each race
or about
2.5 hours
Every 3 races
or about
7.5 hours
Every 6 races
or about
15.0 hours
Every 9 races
or about
22.5 hours
This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machines subjected to severe use require more frequent servicing.
NOTE: 1. Clean after every moto for dusty riding conditions.
2. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.
3. Replace after the first break-in ride.
4. Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5. Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs and plates are replaced.
Perform the Pre-ride Inspection at each scheduled maintenance period.
I: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. R: Replace. A: Adjust. L: Lubricate.
22 Servicing Your Honda
General Competition Maintenance
Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using
an optional workstand, or equivalent support.
When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with
the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten
them to the specified torque using a crisscross
pattern.
Use Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalent
when servicing your CRF.
Clean parts in non-flammable (high flash point)
cleaning solvent (such as kerosene) when
disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surface,
O-rings, and seals before reassembling. Grease
parts by coating or filling where specified.
After any engine disassembly, always install new
gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, piston pin clips,
snap rings, etc. when reassembling. After
reassembly, check all parts for proper installation
and operation.
All Pre-ride Inspection Items
Refer to Pre-ride Inspection page 9.
Servicing Your Honda 23
Spark Plug
Some non-resistor plugs may cause ignition problems. Refer
to the recommendations elsewhere in this manual for specific
types so you will be sure to use the proper reach and heat
range. Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance
Schedule. (page 21).
Engine Oil and Filter
Drain and replace engine oil often to ensure the greatest
service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft.
Also replace the engine oil filter often to ensure the greatest
service life. Frequent changes will also assure consistent
performance of power and response. (page 37).
Air Cleaner
Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly because the volume
of air able to pass through it has a great effect on
performance. Both engine performance and long term
durability may be affected by an air cleaner that has
deteriorated and allows dirt to pass. Inspect the air cleaner
closely each time it’s serviced for evidence of small tears or
seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and ready to
install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty conditions
may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing it with a
pre-serviced air cleaner between motos. Be careful not to
over oil the air cleaner. While it is important to oil the air
cleaner thoroughly, over oiling will cause an overall rich
running condition, probably more noticeable off idle and in
low rpm performance. Follow the servicing instructions in
the Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or
an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner flange where
it contacts the air cleaner housing. Pro Honda White
Lithium Grease, or an equivalent, is handy for this because
any dirt that penetrates this sealing area will show up clearly
(page 43).
Use the Honda Genuine air cleaner or an equivalent air
cleaner specified for your model.
Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda air
cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may cause
premature engine wear or performance problems.
Transmission Oil
Drain and replace transmission oil often to ensure the
greatest service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent
changes will also assure consistent performance of both
shifting and clutch action (page 40).
Air Cleaner Housing Sealing
Remove and reseal the air cleaner housing boot where it
connects to the air cleaner housing with Pro Honda Handgrip
Cement or an equivalent if there is any doubt to its sealing
integrity. Inspect the air cleaner and air intake tract regularly
for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.
General Competition Maintenance
24 Servicing Your Honda
General Competition Maintenance
Handgrips
Always use Pro Honda Handgrip Cementor equivalent when
replacing handgrips.
Refer to the Service Manual for installation instructions.
Throttle Grip:
Align the “∆” mark on the throttle grip with the hole of the
throttle cable guide.
Left Handlebar Grip:
Align the top of the waffle pattern on the grip with the clutch
lever as shown in the illustration.
For added security, you may choose to bind the handgrips to
the handlebar and throttle pipe with safety wires to prevent
the possibility of them loosening. Position the twisted wire
ends away from your palms and be sure to bend the wire
ends well into the handgrip rubber so they will not snag your
glove.
Throttle Control
Remove the throttle control every few rides, clean the inside
of the throttle pipe and the handlebar thoroughly, and apply a
light coating of oil. Inspect the cable carefully for kinks or
other damage that may restrict throttle control in any way.
Move the handlebar from lock to lock to be sure there is no
cable interference. Make certain the throttle operation is
perfect after servicing and inspecting.
Gaskets
Always use new gaskets when reassembling components.
Cylinder
Put a little grease on the cylinder mounting dowels to
prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals. The tolerances are
quite tight, so it’s important to keep these dowels absolutely
clean (page 66).
Fuel Filter
Periodically drain the fuel from the fuel tank, remove and
clean the fuel valve/filter. Replace the fuel valve O-ring if
there are any signs of damage or deterioration (page 35).
Fuel Contamination
Refer to Fuel System in your Owner’s Manual, page 34.
Check the fuel lines for deterioration, damage, or leakage.
Replace the fuel lines, if necessary.
Periodically drain the fuel from the fuel tank, remove and
clean the fuel valve/filter. Replace the fuel valve O-ring if
there are any signs of damage or deterioration (page 35).
Loosen the drain screw and examine the fuel that flows out
of the float bowl. If you notice anything in the fuel, such as
water or dirt, remove the float bowl and inspect its contents
(page 114).
For maximum efficiency, drain and replace fuel that has
remained in your fuel tank for more than a month.
Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts
Make sure the engine mounting bolts and nuts are tightened
to the proper torque specification. For added peace of mind,
remove the nuts, clean the threads, and apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent prior to torquing the nuts.
Electrical Connectors
Clean electrical connectors and wrap them with electrical
tape to reduce the possibility of unwanted disconnections,
water shorts or corrosion. Additional corrosion protection is
offered by using Pro Honda Dielectric Grease on all
electrical connections.
Suspension Linkage Lubrication
Disassemble, clean, inspect and lubricate all suspension
linkage pivot bearings with grease after each 7.5 hours of
running time in order to maintain proper suspension
performance and minimize component wear.
Swingarm Pivot Lubrication
Clean, inspect and lubricate the swingarm and suspension
linkage pivots with grease. Be sure all of the dust seals are
in good condition.
Swingarm
Do not attempt to weld or otherwise repair a damaged
swingarm. Welding will weaken the swingarm.
Footpegs
Worn footpeg teeth can be repaired by filing the grooves
between the teeth with a triangular shaped file.
Be aware that filing them too sharp will reduce boot sole
lifespan. Sharpen only the points of the teeth. Filing the
grooves deeper will weaken the footpegs. Be sure the pegs
are free to pivot freely and that the pivot pin retaining cotter
pins are in good condition.
Brake Fluid Replacement
Refer to Brake Pad Wear in your Owner’s Manual, page 78.
Brake Caliper Inspection: Be sure both the front and rear
calipers are able to move freely on the caliper bracket pins.
Check pad thickness periodically and replace the pads when
minimum thickness is reached. If the brakes fade when they
are hot, inspect the pads for glazing or damage, and replace
if necessary.
Brake Fluid Replacement: Refer to the Honda Service
Manual (page 148) for brake fluid replacement instructions.
Replace the hydraulic fluid in the brake system every 2
years. Replace the fluid more frequently if you subject your
brakes to severe use. Heavy braking heats the brake fluid
and it may deteriorate sooner than expected. Any type of
riding, that requires frequent use of the brakes, such as in
tight woods, can shorten the service life of brake fluid.
Steering Head Bearings
Periodically clean, inspect and regrease the steering head
bearings — especially if you frequently ride on wet, muddy,
or dusty courses. Use urea based multi-purpose grease
designed for high temperature, high pressure performance
(example: EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by KYODO
YUSHI, Japan or Shell stamina EP2 or equivalent).
Bleed Hole
After every race, check the bleed hole below the water pump
cover for leakage. Clean away any clogged dirt or sand, if
necessary. Check for signs of seal leakage. A small amount
of “coolant weeping” from the bleed hole is normal. If water
leaks through the bleed hole, the mechanical seal is
damaged. If oil leaks through the bleed hole, the oil seal is
damaged. See an official Honda Service Manual or consult
your dealer for replacing the mechanical seal or oil
seal. Both seals should be replaced at the same time.
Fork Oil/Performance
Disassemble, clean and inspect the front fork and replace oil
regularly. Contamination due to the tiny metal particles
produced from the normal action of the fork, as well as
normal oil breakdown, will deteriorate the performance of
the suspension. Refer to the Honda Service Manual (page
148). Use only HP Fork Oil, SS-19 or equivalent which
contains special additives to assure maximum performance
of your CRF’s front suspension.
Frame
Because your CRF is a high-performance machine, the frame
should not be overlooked as part of your overall competition
maintenance program. Periodically inspect the frame
closely for possible cracking or other damage. It makes
good racing sense.
Spokes
Check spoke tension frequently between the first few rides.
As the spokes, spoke nuts and rim contact points seat-in, the
spokes may need to be retightened. Once past this initial
seating-in period, the spokes should hold their tension. Still,
be sure your race maintenance program includes checking
spoke tension and overall wheel condition on a regular basis
(page 79).
Nuts, Bolts, Etc.
Application of a thread locking agent to essential fasteners
offers added assurance and security. Remove the nuts, clean
the threads of both the nuts and bolts, apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent and tighten to the specified
torque.
GREASE
GREASE
GREASE
Servicing Your Honda 25
General Competition Maintenance
26 Servicing Your Honda
Before & After Competition Maintenance
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance
After practice or between motos you have a
chance to make additional checks and
adjustments.
• Clean accumulated dirt from under the
fenders and off the wheels, suspension
components, handgrips, controls, and
footpegs. A stiff, nylon parts cleaning brush
works well.
• Check tire air pressure.
•
Check spoke tension, and make sure the rim
locks are secure.
• Check to make sure the sprocket bolts and
nuts are secure.
• Clean the sides of the drive chain with a stif f,
nylon parts-cleaning brush. Lubricate and
adjust the chain as necessary.
Do not perform maintenance while engine is
running.
Injury to your fingers or hands may result.
• After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster
index marks (1) are in the same position on
each side. This will ensure that the rear wheel
is in proper alignment and allow
maximum performance from the rear disc
brake. Maintaining proper wheel alignment
will also extend brake pad wear.
(1) chain adjuster index marks
• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and
use the fork air pressure release screws (2) to
release the built-up pressure (in excess of
normal atmospheric pressure: 0 psi (0 kPa, 0
kgf/cm
2
)) in the fork tubes. This pressure is
caused by normal fork action while riding. (If
you are riding at altitude, remember that fork
pressure of 0 at sea level will increase as
elevation increases.)
(2) fork air pressure release screw
(1)
(2)
After Competition Maintenance
It is important to the long term performance of
your CRF to practice a consistent maintenance
program. Right after the event is a good time to
begin your next maintenance cycle.
After Race Lubrication
Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the
drive sprocket and any steel portions of the
chassis or engine where the paint has worn away .
This will prevent rusting of the exposed metal.
Apply rust-inhibiting oil more heavily if the
event was particularly wet or muddy. Take care
to avoid spraying any oil near the brake pads or
brake disc.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers
between the chain and sprocket.
Remove the drive chain, clean and lubricate it
(pages 83,84). Be sure the chain is wiped clean
and is dry before lubricating the chain.
Servicing Your Honda 27
Before & After Competition Maintenance
Routine Cleaning
If your CRF is only slightly dirty, it is best to
clean it by hand with the aid of a stif f bristled
nylon brush and some clean rags.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers
between the chain and sprocket.
A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes
are available from variety, drug, food, and
hardware stores. Some of these brushes are
extremely useful in removing dirt from the many
tight contours of the metal pieces of your CRF .
Avoid using stiff, abrasive brushes on the plastic
or rubber parts.
If your CRF was exposed to sea air or salt water ,
rinse it as soon as possible after the event, dry it,
and apply a spray lubricant to all metal parts.
If you decide to wash your CRF or use cleaners,
refer to
Appearance Care (page 90).
28 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Component Locations
front brake caliper
choke knob
crankcase breather tube
drive chain
transmission oil
drain bolt
engine oil drain bolt
throttle stop screw
(engine idle speed)
engine oil filter
engine oil fill
cap/dipstick
air cleaner
rear brake
caliper
rear brake
fluid reservoir
rear suspension
rebound damping adjuster
transmission oil
fill cap
rear
brake pedal
transmission oil
check bolt
front suspension compression
damping adjuster
rear suspension compression
damping adjuster
front suspension rebound
damping adjuster
spark plug
rear suspension
spring pre-load adjuster
clutch lever
hot start lever front brake fluid reservoir
front brake lever
fuel fill cap
radiator cap
throttle grip
Servicing Your Honda 29
Seat
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Removal
1. Remove the seat mounting bolts (1), side
cover bolts (2) and side covers (3).
Installation
1. Install the seat while aligning the front prong
(1) with the seat bracket (2) and rear prong (3)
with the tab (4) of the frame.
(3)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(3)
(4)
(2)
(1) seat mounting bolt (3) side cover
(2) side cover bolt
2. Remove the seat (4) by sliding it backward.
(4)
(4) seat
(1) front prong (3) rear prong
(2) seat bracket (4) tab
2. Install the side covers (5) and tighten the side
cover bolts (6).
3. Install and tighten the seat mounting bolts (7)
to the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(5) side cover (7) seat mounting bolt
(6) side cover bolt
30 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel Tank
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Removal
1. Turn the fuel valve (1) OFF.
4. Remove the seat (page 29).
5. Pull the breather tube (5) out of steering stem
nut.
6. Disconnect the fuel line (6).
7. Unhook the fuel tank band (7).
8. Remove the fuel tank bolts/washers (8).
9. Remove the fuel tank.
(5) breather tube
(6) fuel line
(7) fuel tank band
(8) fuel tank bolts/washers
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(4)
(2)
(3)
(5)
(7)
(6)
(8)
(2) shroud A bolt/collar
(3) shroud B bolts
(4) shroud
(1)
(1) fuel valve
2. Remove the shroud A bolts/collars (2).
3. Remove the shroud B bolts (3) and shrouds (4).
Servicing Your Honda 31
Fuel Tank
(4)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(6)
(5)
(7)
(9)
(8)
Installation
1. Install the fuel tank on the frame.
2. Install the fuel tank bolts/washers (1), then
tighten them.
3. Hook the fuel tank band (2).
4. Connect the fuel line (3).
5. Put the breather tube (4) in the steering stem
nut.
6. Install the seat (page 29).
7. Install the left shroud tab (5) under the
crankcase breather hose (6).
(5) left shroud tab (6) cr ankcase breather hose
8. Install the shrouds (7) and shroud B bolts (8).
9. Install and tighten the shroud A bolts/collars
(9).
(7) shroud
(8) shroud B bolts
(9) shroud A bolt/collar
(1) fuel tank bolts/washers
(2) fuel tank band
(3) fuel line
(4) breather tube
10. Tighten the shroud B bolts.
32 Servicing Your Honda
Subframe
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Removal
1. Remove the muffler (page 85).
2. Remove the seat (page 29).
3. Disconnect the crankcase breather tube (1).
4. Pull out the transmission breather tube (2)
from the air cleaner housing.
5. Loosen the screw (3) on the air cleaner
connecting tube clamp (4).
(1) crankcase breather tube
(2) transmission breather tube
(3) screw
(4) air cleaner connecting tube clamp
(2)
(1)
(4)
(3)
6. Remove the subframe lower mounting bolts
(5) and upper mounting bolt (6). Then remove
the subframe (7) by pulling it straight
backward.
(6)
(7)
(5)
(5) subframe lower mounting bolts
(6) subframe upper mounting bolt
(7) subframe
Servicing Your Honda 33
Subframe
2. Make sure the carburetor tab (4) aligns with
the air cleaner connecting tube groove (5).
3. Tighten the connecting tube clamp screw (6)
so the gap between the tabs of the clamp is
0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1mm).
(4) carburetor tab
(5) air cleaner connecting tube g roove
(6) connecting tube clamp screw
4. Connect the crankcase breather tube (7).
5. Route the transmission breather tube (8) into
the air cleaner housing.
(5)
(4)
(6)
0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1 mm)
Installation
1. Loosely attach the upper and lower ends of
the subframe (1) to the mainframe while
connecting the air cleaner connecting tube to
the carburetor.
Be careful not to bend the subframe.
Install the subframe upper mounting bolt (2)
and lower mounting bolts (3).
Tighten the upper mounting bolt and lower
mounting bolts to the specified torque:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
(1) subframe
(2) subframe upper mounting bolt
(3) subframe lower mounting bolts
(2)
(1)
(3)
6. Install the seat (page 29).
7. Install the muffler (pages 86).
(8)
(7)
(7) crankcase breather tube
(8) transmission breather tube
34 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Fuel Recommendation
Use only unleaded fuel in your Honda. If you
ride your Honda in a country where leaded fuel
might be available, take precautions to use only
unleaded fuel.
Your engine is designed to use any unleaded
gasoline that has a pump octane number of 91 or
higher. Gasoline pumps at service stations
normally display the pump octane number. For
information on the use of oxygenated fuels, see
page 140.
Use of lower octane gasoline can cause persistent
“pinging” or “spark knock” (a louder rapping
noise) which, if severe, can lead to engine
damage. (Light pinging experienced while
operating under a heavy load, such as climbing a
hill, is no cause for concern.)
If pinging or spark knock occurs at a steady
engine speed under normal load, change brands
of gasoline. If pinging or spark knock persists,
consult your dealer.
Never use stale or contaminated gasoline. Avoid
getting dirt, dust or water in the fuel tank.
Type Unleaded
Pump Octane Number 91 (or higher)
Refueling Procedure
Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.14 US gal (4.3R)
(1) fuel fill cap (3) steering stem nut
(2) breather tube
1. To open the fuel fill cap (1), pull the breather
tube (2) out of the steering stem nut (3). Turn
the fuel fill cap counterclockwise and remove
it.
2. Add fuel until the level reaches the bottom of
the filler neck. Avoid overfilling the tank.
There should be no fuel in the filler neck.
3. Close the fuel fill cap and insert the breather
tube in the steering stem nut.
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
seriously injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
Fuel Line
(1) fuel line
1. Check for leaks.
2. Check the fuel line (1) for cracks,
deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace the
fuel line, if necessary.
(2)
(3)
(1)
(1)
Fuel Line
Servicing Your Honda 35
Fuel System
(3) fuel filter (4) O-ring
(4)
(3)
Fuel Filter
The fuel filter is mounted on the bottom left side
of the fuel tank. Dirt accumulated in the filter
will restrict the flow of the fuel to the carburetor .
Therefore, the fuel filter should be serviced
frequently.
To service the fuel filter:
1. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank into an
approved gasoline container.
2. Remove the fuel tank (page 30).
3. Remove the fuel valve (1) from the fuel tank
by removing the bolts/collars (2).
4. Wash the fuel filter (3) in high flash-point
cleaning solvent.
5. Make sure the O-ring (4) is in good condition
and install it onto the fuel valve.
6. Install the fuel valve in the fuel tank by
tightening the bolts/collars to the specified
torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
7. Install the fuel tank (page 31) and refill the
fuel.
Turn the fuel valve ON; check for leaks.
(1) fuel valve (2) bolts/collars
(2)
(1)
36 Servicing Your Honda
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving on the circular API service
label.
Engine Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the engine. Even the best oil wears
out. Changing oil helps get rid of dirt and
deposits. Operating the engine with old or dirty
oil can damage your engine. Running the engine
with insufficient oil can cause serious damage to
the engine.
Oil Recommendation
API
classification
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy conserving
on the circular API service
label
suggested oil
*
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil
or an equivalent
*
viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W–30
JASO T 903 standard MA
• Your CRF does not need oil additives.
Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine
oils displaying a circular API “energy
conserving” service label on the container. They
may affect lubrication.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart
may be used when the average temperature in
your riding area is within the indicated range.
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
Servicing Your Honda 37
Engine Oil
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the
oil container. For example, the following label
shows the MA classification.
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) upper level mark
(3) lower level mark
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting of f the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
engine.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1),
wipe it clean, and insert the engine oil fill
cap/dipstick without screwing it in. Remove
the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
5. Check that the oil level is between the upper
(2) and lower (3) level marks on the engine
oil fill cap/dipstick.
• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark,
you do not have to add oil.
• If the oil is below or near the lower level
mark, add the recommended oil until it
reaches the upper level mark. (Do not overfill.)
Reinstall the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
Repeat steps 1–5.
6. Reinsert the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
7. Check for oil leaks.
Changing Engine Oil & Filter
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1)
from the left crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to
catch the oil. Then remove the engine oil
drain bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and tighten it with a
new sealing washer to the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
(2)
(1)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1) (3)
(2)
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) engine oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer
(cont’d)
Using the wrong oil filter may result in leaks or
engine damage.
10. Apply grease to the filter side of the spring
end, then install the spring (8) into a new oil
filter.
11. Position the spring against the engine
crankcase and install a new oil filter with the
rubber seal (9) facing out, away from the
engine. You should see the “OUT-SIDE”
mark (10) on the filter body, near the seal.
Use a new Honda Genuine oil filter or a
filter of equal quality specified for your
model.
If the oil filter is not installed pr operly, it will
cause serious engine damage.
12. Apply engine oil to the O-ring and install it
to the oil filter cover.
13. Install the oil filter cover being careful not to
damage the O-ring, then tighten the oil filter
cover bolts to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
14. Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil.
Capacity:
0.62 US qt (0.59R)
after draining and oil filter change
0.59 US qt (0.56R)
after draining
15. Install the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
16. Check the engine oil level by following the
steps in
Checking & Adding Oil (page 37).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
NOTICE
NOTICE
38 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Oil
6. It is recommended to replace the oil and filter
every 6 races or about every 15.0 hours.
However, if you replace only the oil before
the recommended interval, see page 21.
7. Remove the oil filter cover bolts (4) and oil
filter cover (5).
8. Remove the oil filter (6) from the oil filter cover .
9. Check that the oil filter cover O-ring (7) is in
good condition and replace it if necessary.
(8)
(10)
(7)
(6)
(9)
(5)
(4)
(4) oil filter cover bolts
(5) oil filter cover
(6) oil filter
(7) oil filter cover O-ring
(8) spring
(9) rubber seal
(10) “OUT-SIDE” mark
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
Transmission Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the transmission and clutch. Even
the best oil wears out. Changing oil helps get rid
of dirt and deposits. Operating the engine with
old or dirty oil can damage your engine.
Running the engine with insufficient oil can
cause serious damage to the engine and
transmission.
Oil Recommendation
• Your CRF does not need oil additives. Use the
recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum
additives. They may adversely affect clutch
operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine
oils displaying a circular API “energy
conserving” service label on the container. They
may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
Servicing Your Honda 39
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving on the circular API service
label.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart
may be used when the average temperature in
your riding area is within the indicated range.
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
API classification
(4-stroke engine oil
only)
Viscosity
(weight)
JASO T903
standard
others
suggested oil
*
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving on the circular
API service label
SAE 10W–30
MA
without friction modifiers as
molybdenum additives
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil
or an equivalent
*
40 Servicing Your Honda
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the
oil container. For example, the following label
shows the MA classification.
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) transmission oil fill cap (3) sealing washer
(2) oil check bolt
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting of f the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
clutch and transmission.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1), oil
check bolt (2) and sealing washer (3) from the
right crankcase cover. A small amount of oil
should flow out of the oil check bolt hole.
Allow any excess oil to flow out of the oil
check bolt hole.
If no oil flows out of the oil check bolt hole,
add oil slowly through the transmission oil fill
hole until oil starts to flow out of the oil check
bolt hole.
Install the oil check bolt with a new sealing
washer and transmission oil fill cap. Repeat
step 1–4.
5. After inspecting the oil level or adding oil,
tighten the oil check bolt to the specified
torque:
Oil Check Bolt:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
6. Install the transmission oil fill cap securely.
Replacing Transmission Oil
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1) from
the right crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to
catch the oil. Then remove the transmission
oil drain bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and tighten it with a
new sealing washer to the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
6. Fill the crankcase with recommended oil.
Capacity:
0.60 US qt (0.57R) after draining
7. Check the transmission oil level by following
the steps in
Checking & Adding Oil (this page).
Transmission Oil
(2)
(1)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(3)
(2)
(1) transmission oil fill cap (3) sealing washer
(2) transmission oil drain bolt
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
Servicing Your Honda 41
Your CRF’s liquid cooling system dissipates
engine heat through the coolant jacket that
surrounds the cylinder and cylinder head.
Maintaining the coolant will allow the cooling
system to work properly and prevent freezing,
overheating, and corrosion.
Coolant Recommendation
Use Pro Honda HP coolant or an equivalent high
quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing
corrosion protection inhibitors specifically
recommended for use in aluminum engines.
Check the antifreeze container label.
Use only distilled water as a part of the coolant
solution. Water that is high in mineral content or
salt may be harmful to the aluminum engine.
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause
premature wear of the water seal or
blockage of the radiator passages. Using tap
water may cause engine damage.
The factory provides a 50/50 solution of
antifreeze and water in this motorcycle. This
coolant solution is recommended for most
operating temperatures and provides good
corrosion protection.
Decreasing the concentration of antifreeze to less
than 40% will not provide proper corrosion
protection.
Increasing the concentration of antifreeze is not
recommended because it decreases cooling
system performance. Higher concentrations of
antifreeze (up to 60%) should only be used to
provide additional protection against freezing.
Check the cooling system frequently during
freezing weather.
Checking & Adding Coolant
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
1. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap
(1) and check coolant level. The coolant level
is correct when it is at the bottom of the
radiator filler neck (2).
(1) radiator cap
(2) radiator filler neck
2. Add coolant up to the filler neck if the level is
low.
Inspect the coolant level before each outing.
A coolant loss of 0.7 - 2.0 US oz (20 - 60
cm
3
) through the over flow tube is normal. If
coolant loss is more than this, inspect the
cooling system.
Capacity:
0.80 US qt (0.76R) after disassembly
3. Install the radiator cap securely.
If the radiator cap is not installed pr operly, it
will cause excessive coolant loss and may r esult
in overheating and engine damage.
NOTICE
NOTICE
Coolant
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
(1)
(2)
Cooling System Inspection
1. Check the cooling system for leaks (see the
Honda Service Manual for troubleshooting of
leaks).
2. Check the water hoses (1) for cracks,
deterioration, and hose clamps bands for
looseness.
3. Check the radiator mount for looseness.
4. Make sure the overflow hose (2) is connected
and not clogged.
5. Check the radiator fins for clogging.
6. Check the bleed hole (3) below the water
pump cover (4) for leakage. Check for signs
of seal leakage. A small amount of “weeping”
from the bleed hole is normal. See the Honda
Service Manual or consult your dealer for
replacing the water seal or the oil seal. Both
seals should be replaced at the same time.
Coolant Replacement
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Coolant should be replaced by your dealer, unless
you have the proper tools and service data and
are mechanically qualified. Refer to the Honda
Service Manual (page 148).
To properly dispose of drained coolant, refer to
You & the Environment, page 130.
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
42 Servicing Your Honda
Coolant
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
(1)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
(1) water hoses
(2) overflow hose
(3) bleed hole
(4) water pump cover
Servicing Your Honda 43
Air Cleaner
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
The air cleaner uses polyurethane inner and outer
pieces which can’t be separated.
A dirty air cleaner will reduce engine power.
Proper air cleaner maintenance is very important
for off-road vehicles. A dirty, water-soaked,
worn-out, or defective air cleaner will allow dirt,
dust, mud, and other impurities to pass into the
engine.
Service the air cleaner more frequently if you
ride in unusually wet or dusty areas. Your dealer
can help you determine the correct service
interval for your riding conditions.
Your CRF’s air cleaner has very specific
performance requirements. Use a new Honda
Genuine air cleaner specified for your model or
an air cleaner of equal quality.
Using the wrong air cleaner may result in
premature engine wear.
Proper air cleaner maintenance can prevent
premature engine wear or damage, expensive
repairs, low engine power, poor gas mileage, and
spark plug fouling.
Improper or lack of proper air cleaner
maintenance can cause poor performance and
premature engine wear.
NOTICE
NOTICE
Cleaning
1. Remove the seat (page 29).
2. Remove the air cleaner retaining bolt (1) and
air cleaner assembly (2).
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(2) air cleaner assembly
3. Remove the air cleaner element (3) from the
air cleaner holder (4).
7. Apply 0.09 – 0.11 oz (2.6 – 3.0 g) of Pro
Honda White Lithium Grease or equivalent to
the air cleaner housing contact area of the air
cleaner element.
8. Assemble the air cleaner element and holder.
Install the holder tab (5) in the hole (6) of the
air cleaner tab (7).
(cont’d)
(1)
(2)
(7)
(5)
(3)
(4)
(6)
(3) air cleaner element (6) hole
(4) air cleaner holder (7) air cleaner tab
(5) holder tab
4. Wash the air cleaner element in clean non-
flammable cleaning solvent. Then wash in
hot, soapy water, rinse well, and allow to dry
thoroughly.
The air cleaner element is made in two pieces:
inner and outer, which cannot be separated.
5. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.
6. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly. After
drying, apply 1.7 US oz (50 cm
3
) of clean Pro
Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent air
cleaner oil from the inside of the element.
Place the element into a plastic bag and
spread the oil evenly by hand.
44 Servicing Your Honda
Air Cleaner
Improper installation of the air cleaner assembly
may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine and
cause rapid wear of the piston rings and cylinder.
11. Install the seat (page 29).
NOTICE
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(8) air cleaner element tab
(9) air cleaner element stay boss
(10) air cleaner holder tabs
(1)
(8)
(9)
(10)
9. Install the air cleaner assembly into the air
cleaner housing.
• Install the air cleaner assembly with the air
cleaner element tab (8) facing up.
• Position the air cleaner element stay boss (9)
between the air cleaner holder tabs (10).
10. Install and tighten the air cleaner retaining
bolt (1).
Servicing Your Honda 45
Crankcase Breather
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Service more frequently if your CRF is ridden in
the rain or often at full throttle.
Service the breather if you can see deposits in the
transparent section of the drain tube.
Draining
1. Remove the crankcase breather tube plug (1)
from the tube (2) and drain deposits into a
suitable container.
2. Reinstall the crankcase breather tube plug.
(1) crankcase breather tube plug
(2) tube
(1)
(2)
46 Servicing Your Honda
Throttle
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Throttle Freeplay
Lower Adjustment
The lower adjuster is used for major freeplay
adjustment, such as after replacing the throttle
cables or removing the carburetor. It is also used
if you cannot get the proper adjustment with the
upper adjuster.
(1)
(1)
(+)
(–)
(2)
(3)
(1) dust cover (+) increase freeplay
(2) lock nut (–) decrease freeplay
(3) adjuster
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (2).
3. Turn the adjuster (3) in direction ( –) to
decrease freeplay, and in direction (+) to
increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
5. Operate the throttle grip to ensure that it
functions smoothly and returns completely.
6. Install the dust cover.
If you can’t get the freeplay within the specified
range, contact your dealer.
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (2).
3. Turn the adjuster (3).
Turning the adjuster in direction ( –) will
decrease freeplay and turning it in direction
(+) will increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Return the dust cover to its normal position.
5. After adjustment, check for smooth rotation of
the throttle grip from fully closed to fully
open in all steering positions.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or
the correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn
the adjuster all the way in and back out one
turn.
Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Install the dust cover and make the
adjustment with the lower adjuster.
(1) dust cover (+) increase freeplay
(2) lock nut (–) decrease freeplay
(3) adjuster
(1) freeplay
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay:
1/8 – 3/16 in (3 – 5 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Upper
Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
upper adjuster.
Servicing Your Honda 47
Throttle
Throttle Inspection
3. Inspect the condition of the throttle cables
from the throttle grip down to the carburetor .
If the cable is kinked or chafed, have it
replaced.
4. Check the cables for tension or stress in all
steering positions.
5. Lubricate the cables with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
rust and corrosion.
(1)
(2)
1. Check that the throttle assembly is positioned
properly (the end of the throttle housing (1) is
aligned with the punch mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
(1) throttle housing (2) punch mark
2. Check for smooth rotation of the throttle (3)
from fully open to fully closed in all steering
positions. If there is a problem, see your
dealer.
(3)
(3) throttle
48 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Idle Speed
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Remember, idle speed adjustment is not a
“cure-all” for other problems in your engine ’s
fuel-delivery system. Adjusting the idle will not
compensate for a fault elsewhere.
The engine must be at normal operating
temperature for accurate idle speed adjustment.
The best way to assure proper carburetion is to
see your dealer for regularly scheduled servicing,
including carburetor adjustment.
Idle Speed Adjustment
1. If the engine is cold, start it and warm it up 3
minutes and then shut it off.
2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. Shift the transmission into neutral and start
the engine.
4. Keep the motorcycle in an upright position.
5. Adjust idle speed with the throttle stop screw
(1).
Idle speed:
2,100 ± 100 rpm
(1)
(1) throttle stop screw
Servicing Your Honda 49
Clutch System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Clutch Lever Freeplay
(1) clutch lever
Inspection
Check freeplay.
Freeplay:
3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Improper freeplay adjustment can cause
premature clutch wear.
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
the clutch cable is disconnected.
(1)
Integral Cable Adjustment
The integral cable adjuster is used if the cable
end adjuster is threaded out near its limit — or
the correct freeplay cannot be obtained.
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) integral cable adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
1. Turn the cable end adjuster in direction ( +)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out one
turn.
2. Loosen the lock nut (1).
3. Turn the integral cable adjuster (2) to obtain
the specified freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut. Check the freeplay.
5. Start the engine, pull the clutch lever in, and
shift into gear. Make sure the engine does not
stall and the motorcycle does not creep.
Gradually release the clutch lever and open
the throttle. Your CRF should move smoothly
and accelerate gradually.
If you can’t get proper adjustment, or the clutch
does not work properly, the cable may be kinked
or worn, or the clutch discs may be worn. See
your dealer or refer to the Honda Service Manual
(page 148).
(2)
(–)
(+)
(1)
Cable End Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
cable end adjuster.
(1) dust cover (+) increase freeplay
(2) lock nut (–) decrease freeplay
(3) cable end adjuster
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (2) and turn the cable end
adjuster (3). Turning the adjuster in direction
(–) will decrease freeplay and turning in the
direction (+) will increase freeplay.
3. After adjustment, tighten the lock nut and
install the dust cover.
4. Check the freeplay again.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the
correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in direction (+) and make the
adjustment with the integral cable adjuster.
(2)
(3)
(1)
(–)
(+)
50 Servicing Your Honda
Other Inspections & Lubrication
• Check that the clutch lever assembly is
positioned properly (the end of the holder (1)
is aligned with the punch mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
Clutch System
(1)
(2)
(1) end of the holder (2) punch mark
• Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of
wear. If necessary, have it replaced.
• Lubricate the clutch cable with a
commercially available cable lubricant to
prevent premature wear and corrosion.
Clutch Operation
1. Check for smooth clutch lever operation. If
necessary, lubricate the clutch lever pivot or
clutch cable.
2. Check the clutch cable for deterioration,
kinks, or damage.
Servicing Your Honda 51
Hot Start Lever
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Hot Start Lever Freeplay
(1) hot start lever
(2) hot start lever freeplay
Inspection
Check freeplay:
Freeplay:
1/16 – 1/8 in (2 – 3 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Adjustment
Adjustments can be made with the cable adjuster .
Loosen the lock nut (1) and turn the adjuster (2).
Turning the adjuster clockwise (+) will increase
freeplay and turning it counterclockwise ( –) will
decrease freeplay. After adjustment, tighten the
lock nut.
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
(2)
(1)
(2)
(–)
(+)
(1)
52 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Spark Plug Recommendation
The recommended standard spark plug is
satisfactory for most racing conditions.
Use only the recommended type of spark plugs in
the recommended heat range.
Using a spark plug with an improper heat range
or incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Using a non-resistor spark plug may cause
ignition problems.
Spark Plug Inspection & Replacement
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Disconnect the direct ignition coil connector (2).
3. Disconnect the direct ignition coil (3).
4. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug base.
5. Remove the spark plug (4).
NOTICE
Spark Plug
8. To obtain accurate spark plug readings,
accelerate up to speed on a straightaway. Push
the engine stop button and disengage the
clutch by pulling the lever in.
Coast to a stop, then remove and inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator around the center
electrode should appear tan or medium gray.
If you're using a new plug, ride for at least 10
minutes before taking a plug reading; a brand-new
plug will not show color initially.
If the electrodes appear burnt, or the insulator is
white or light gray (lean) or the electrodes and
insulator are black or fouled (rich), there is a
problem elsewhere (page 122).
Check the carburetor, fuel system and ignition timing.
9. With the sealing gasket attached, thread the
spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-
threading.
(1) dust cover (3) direct ignition coil
(2) direct ignition coil connector (4) spar k plug
6. Check the electrodes for wear or deposits, the
sealing gasket (5) for damage, and the
insulator for cracks. Replace if you detect
them.
7. Check the spark plug gap (6) using a feeler
gauge, and adjust by carefully bending the side
electrode (7).
The recommended spark plug gap is:
0.031 – 0.035 in (0.8 – 0.9 mm)
(5) sealing gasket
(6) spark plug gap
(7) side electrode
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(6)
(7)
(5)
Standard
CR8EH-9 (NGK)
U24FER9 (DENSO)
Optional
CR9EH-9 (NGK)
U27FER9 (DENSO)
10. Tighten the spark plug:
• If the old plug is good:
1/8 turn after it seats.
• If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to
prevent loosening:
a) First, tighten the plug:
NGK: 1/2 turn after it seats.
DENSO: 1 turn after it seats.
b) Then loosen the plug.
c) Next, tighten the plug again:
1/8 turn after it seats.
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage the
engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may be damaged.
If a plug is too tight, the thr eads may be damaged.
11. Connect the direct ignition coil. Take care to
avoid pinching any cables or wires.
12. Connect the direct ignition coil connector.
13. Install the dust cover.
NOTICE
Servicing Your Honda 53
Valve Clearance
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
Before inspection, clean the engine thoroughly to
keep dirt from entering the engine.
1. Remove the seat and fuel tank (page 29, 30).
2. Remove the spark plug (page 52).
3. Disconnect the breather tube (1).
4. Remove the cylinder head cover bolts (2) and
cylinder head cover (3).
Positioning At Top Dead Center On The
Compression Stroke
1. Remove the crankshaft hole cap (1).
(1) breather tube
(2) cylinder head cover bolts
(3) cylinder head cover
5. Remove the spark plug hole packing.
(1) crankshaft hole cap
2. Remove the spark plug (page 52).
(1)
(3)
(2)
(1)
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Excessive valve clearance will cause noise and
eventual engine damage. Little or no clearance
will prevent the valve from closing and cause
valve damage and power loss. Check the valve
clearance when the engine is cold at the intervals
specified in the Maintenance Schedule (page 21).
The checking or adjusting of the valve clearance
should be performed while the engine is cold.
The valve clearance will change as engine
temperature rises.
(cont’d)
54 Servicing Your Honda
2. Measure the exhaust valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the
exhaust rocker arms (4) and exhaust valve
shims (5).
(1) feeler gauge
(4) exhaust rocker arms
(5) exhaust valve shims
Valve Clearance:
IN: 0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
EX:0.010 ± 0.001 in (0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
If intake valve clearance and exhaust valve
clearance need adjustment, see
Camshaft Holder
Assembly Removal
(page 55) and select the
correct shim for each valve.
(5)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(1) feeler gauge
(2) valve lifters
(3) intake cam lobes
3. Rotate the crankshaft by turning the primary
drive gear bolt (2) (crankshaft) clockwise until
the punch mark (3) on the primary drive gear
aligns with the index mark (4) on the right
crankcase cover. In this position, the piston may
either be on the compression or exhaust stroke.
If the crankshaft passed the punch mark,
rotate the primary drive gear bolt clockwise
again and align the punch mark with the index
mark.
The inspection must be made when the piston
is at the top of the compression stroke when
both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.
This condition can be determined by moving
the exhaust rocker arms (5). If they are free, it
is an indication that the valves are closed and
that the piston is on the compression stroke. If
they are tight and the valves are open, rotate
the primary drive gear bolt 360 ° and realign
the punch mark with the index mark.
(2)
(4)
(3)
(2) primary drive gear bolt (4) index mark
(3) punch mark
(5) exhaust rocker arms
Valve Clearance Inspection
1. Measure the intake valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the valve
lifters (2) and intake cam lobes (3).
Valve Clearance
Servicing Your Honda 55
Valve Clearance
Camshaft Holder Assembly Removal
1. Record the intake valve clearance and exhaust
valve clearance.
Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead
Center) on the compression stroke (page 53).
2. Loosen the connecting tube clamp screw (1)
and insulator band screw (2) and rotate the
carburetor to access for the cam chain
tensioner lifter.
(3) cam chain tensioner lifter co ver bolt
(4) sealing washer
Use the tensioner stopper tool.
• Tensioner stopper 070MG-0010100
07AMG-001A100
(USA only)
4. Turn the tensioner shaft clockwise with the
tensioner stopper (5) until it stops, in order to
retract the tensioner fully.
Then insert the tensioner stopper fully to hold
the stopper in the fully retracted position.
(5) tensioner stopper
5. Remove the bolt (6), stopper plate (7), return
spring (8) and decompressor weight (9).
Do not let the bolt, stopper plate, r eturn spring
and decompressor weight fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(3)
(4)
(5)
(5)
(1) connecting tube clamp screw
(2) insulator band screw
3. Remove the cam chain tensioner lifter cover
bolt (3) and sealing washer (4).
(1)
(2)
6. Remove the socket bolts (10) and cam
sprocket (11), then attach a piece of wire to
the cam chain (12) to prevent it from falling
into the crankcase.
Do not let the bolts, sprocket and cam chain fall
into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(9)
(8)
(7)
(6)
(10) socket bolts (12) cam chain
(11) cam sprocket
(12)
(11)
(10)
(6) bolt (8) return spring
(7) stopper plate (9) decompressor weight
(cont’d)
56 Servicing Your Honda
10. Remove the shims (17).
Keep the shims separate so you can easily
identify the originally installed location, such as
intake or exhaust, right or left.
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(17) shims
(17)
7. Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead
Center) on the compression stroke. Loosen the
camshaft holder assembly bolts (13) in a
crisscross pattern in two or three steps.
Remove the camshaft holder assembly bolts
and camshaft holder assembly (14).
• As you remove the camshaft holder assembly,
valve lifters and shims may be sticking in the
camshaft holder assembly.
• Keep the intake valve lifters and the shims
separate so you can easily identify the
originally installed location such as intake or
exhaust, right or left.
Do not let the valve lifters and shims fall into the
crankcase.
NOTICE
(13) camshaft holder assembly bolts
(14) camshaft holder assembly
8. Remove the valve lifters (15).
9. Remove the O-ring (16).
(15) valve lifters (16) O-ring
(13)
(14)
Valve Clearance
(16)
(15)
Servicing Your Honda 57
Valve Clearance
Shim Selection
1. Clean the valve shim contact area in the valve
lifter (1) with compressed air.
(1) valve lifter
2. Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer
and record it.
Sixty-nine different thickness shims (2) are
available from the thinnest (1.200 mm thickness)
shim to the thickest (2.900 mm thickness) in
intervals of 0.025 mm.
3. Calculate the new shim thickness using the
equation below.
A = (B – C) + D
A: New shim thickness
B: Recorded valve clearance
C: Specified valve clearance
D: Old shim thickness
• Make sure of the correct shim thickness by
measuring the shim with a micrometer.
• Reface the intake valve seat if carbon deposits
result in a calculated dimension of over
2.450 mm.
Reface the exhaust valve seat if carbon
deposits result in a calculated dimension of
over 2.900 mm.
(1)
(2)
(2) shim
58 Servicing Your Honda
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1) primary drive gear bolt
(2) punch mark
(3) index mark
2. Install the newly selected shims (4) on the
valve spring retainers (5).
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(4) shims (5) v alve spring retainers
Camshaft Holder Assembly Installation
1. While holding the cam chain, rotate the
primary drive gear bolt (1) (crankshaft)
clockwise and align the punch mark (2) with
the index mark (3).
(4)
(5)
Valve Clearance
3. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the outer surface of each
valve lifter (6).
4. Install the valve lifters in their original
location into the camshaft holder assembly.
5. Apply oil to new O-ring (7) and install it.
(6) valve lifters (7) O-ring
6. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the surface of the cam
lobes.
Install the camshaft holder assembly onto the
cylinder head aligning the index line (8) on
the camshaft flange with the index mark (9)
on the camshaft holder as illustrated above.
Apply oil to the camshaft holder assembly
bolt threads and seating surface.
Align the camshaft holder assembly bolt holes
(10) with the rocker arm shaft cut-outs (1 1).
Tighten the camshaft holder assembly bolts
(12) in a crisscross pattern in two or three
steps to the specified torque:
10 lbf·ft (13 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)
(7)
(6)
Do not let the bolts and valve lifters fall into the
crankcase.
NOTICE
(8) index line
(9) index mark
(12) camshaft holder assembly bolts
(12)
(8)
(9)
(10) camshaft holder assembly bolts holes
(11) rocker arm shaft cut-outs
(10)
(11)
Servicing Your Honda 59
Valve Clearance
(13)
(14)
(17)
(16)
(15)
(13) cam chain (16) “∆” marks
(14) cam sprocket (17) “OUT” mark
(15) timing marks
7. Install the cam chain (13) on the cam sprocket
(14) while aligning the timing marks (15) on
the cam sprocket with the “∆” marks (16) on
the camshaft holder, then install the cam
sprocket on the camshaft.
Install the cam sprocket with its “OUT” mark
(17) facing out.
Do not let the sprocket and cam chain fall into
the crankcase.
NOTICE
(18)
(18) cam sprocket bolts
8. Clean and apply locking agent to the cam
sprocket bolt threads.
9. Tighten the cam sprocket bolts (18)
alternately to the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
Do not let the bolts fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(20)
(19)
(19) decompressor weight
(20) return spring
11. Clean and apply locking agent to the bolt
threads (coating width: 0.26 ± 0.04 in (6.5 ±
1 mm) from tip).
12. Install the stopper plate (21) and tighten the
bolt (22) to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
10. Install the decompressor weight (19) and
return spring (20) as illustrated below.
(21)
(22)
(21) stopper plate (22) bolt
(cont’d)
60 Servicing Your Honda
17. Coat a new O-ring (27) with oil and install it
onto the crankshaft hole cap (28).
Apply grease to the crankshaft hole cap
threads.
Install and tighten the crankshaft hole cap to
the specified torque:
11 lbf·ft (15 N·m, 1.5 kgf·m)
(27) O-ring
(28) crankshaft hole cap
(28)
(27)
Valve Clearance
15. Rotate the primary drive gear bolt
(crankshaft) clockwise two turns and align
the punch mark (2) with the index mark (3).
(2)
(3)
13. Remove the tensioner stopper (23) from the
cam chain tensioner lifter.
(23)
(23) tensioner stopper
14. Install a new sealing washer (24) and tighten
the cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt (25).
(24) sealing washer
(25) cam chain tensioner lifter co ver bolt
(25)
(24)
(26) feeler gauge
(26)
(26)
(2) punch mark
(3) index mark
16. Measure the intake valve clearance and
exhaust valve clearance by inserting a feeler
gauge (26).
Valve Clearance:
IN: 0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
EX:0.010 ± 0.001 in (0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
Servicing Your Honda 61
Valve Clearance
(32) insulator band screw
Cylinder Head Cover Installation
1. Check the spark plug hole packing (1) is in
good condition, replace it if necessary.
Apply oil to the spark plug hole packing.
Install the spark plug hole packing to the
cylinder head cover.
2. Inspect the cylinder head cover packing (2)
for damage or deterioration, replace it if
necessary.
Install the cylinder head cover packing into
the groove of the cylinder head cover (3).
(1) spark plug hole packing
(2) cylinder head cover packing
(3) cylinder head cover
(4) rubber seal (5) “UP” marks
4. Install the cylinder head cover (3) and tighten
the cylinder head cover bolts (6) to the
specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Connect the breather tube (7).
(3) cylinder head cover
(6) cylinder head cover bolts
(7) breather tube
6. Install the spark plug and direct ignition coil
(page 52).
7. Install the fuel tank and the seat (pages 31,29).
(3)
(1)
(2)
(7)
(3)
(6)
18. Rotate the carburetor and align the tabs (29)
on the carburetor with the grooves (30) on
the insulator and connecting tube.
19. Tighten the connecting tube clamp screw
(31) so the gap between the tabs of the
clamp is 0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1 mm).
(29) tabs (31) connecting tube clamp screw
(30) grooves
(30)
(30)
(31)
(29)
(32)
0.3 ± 0.04 in
(7 ± 1 mm)
3. Check the rubber seal (4) is in good condition,
replace them if necessary.
Install the rubber seals onto the cylinder head
cover with their “UP” marks (5) facing up.
(4)
(5)
20. Tighten the insulator band screw (32) so the
gap between the tabs of the clamp is 0.3 ±
0.04 in (7 ± 1 mm).
0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1 mm)
62 Servicing Your Honda
12. Remove the radiator mounting bolts/washers
(4) and radiators (5).
(4) radiator mounting bolts/washers
(5) radiators
(5)
(4)
(4)
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
Cylinder Head Removal
1. Clean the area above the engine before
removal to prevent dirt falling into the engine.
2. Drain the radiator coolant after cooling the
motorcycle (page 42).
3. Remove the seat and fuel tank (pages 29,30).
4. Remove the carburetor (page 112).
5. Remove the exhaust pipe (page 87).
6. Remove the spark plug (page 52).
7. Remove the cylinder head cover (page 53).
8. Remove the camshaft holder assembly
(page 55).
9. Remove the radiator grills (1).
10. Loosen the water hose clamp screws and
disconnect the water hoses (2).
11. Disconnect the radiator overflow hose (3).
• Note the direction of the hose clamp.
• Be careful not to damage the radiator core.
(2) water hoses
(3) radiator overflow hose
(2)
(3)
(2)
(2)
(1) radiator grills
(1)
Servicing Your Honda 63
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
13. Remove the cylinder head bolts (6).
14. Loosen the cylinder bolt (7).
(6) cylinder head bolts
(7) cylinder bolt
(8) cylinder head nuts/washers
(9) cylinder head
16. Remove the dowel pins (10), cylinder head
gasket (11) and cam chain guide (12).
Do not let the dowel pins and cam chain fall into
the crankcase.
NOTICE
(10) dowel pins (12) cam chain guide
(11) cylinder head gasket
(7)
(6)
(8)
(9)
(11)
(12)
(10)
15. Remove the cylinder head nuts/washers (8)
and cylinder head (9).
Loosen the nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three steps.
Do not let the nuts, washers and cam chain fall
into the crankcase.
NOTICE
64 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
Cylinder Removal
1. Remove the cylinder bolt (1) and cylinder (2).
Do not let the cam chain fall into the crankcase.
Do not pry on or strike the cylinder.
NOTICE
(1) cylinder bolt
(2) cylinder
2. Remove the dowel pins (3) and cylinder
gasket (4).
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(3) dowel pins
(4) cylinder gasket
Piston Removal
1. Place clean shop towels in the crankcase to
keep the piston pin clips or other parts from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Remove the piston pin clips (1) using a pair of
needle-nose pliers.
3. Press the piston pin (2) out of the piston (3),
and remove the piston.
Under racing conditions, the piston should be
replaced after 15.0 hours of running. Replace the
piston pin after 15.0 hours of running.
Piston Ring Removal
Spread each piston ring (1) and remove by lifting
it up at a point just opposite the gap.
Under racing conditions, the piston rings should
be replaced after 15.0 hours of running.
Do not damage the piston ring by spr eading the
ends too far.
NOTICE
(2)
(1)
(4)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(1) piston pin clip (3) piston
(2) piston pin
(1)
(1) piston ring
Servicing Your Honda 65
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
Piston Ring Installation
1. Remove the carbon deposits from the piston
crown and piston ring grooves with the
removed ring (1).
top ring
oil ring
mark
top ring
oil
ring
side rail
side rail
spacer
Piston/Piston Pin/Piston Ring
Inspection
We recommend you consult the Service Manual
or your dealer for correct Service Limit
measurements.
(1) removed ring
2. Apply engine oil to piston rings and install them.
Do not damage the piston ring by spr eading the
ends too far.
Do not damage the piston during piston ring
installation.
• To install the oil ring, install the spacer first,
then install the side rails.
• Install the top ring on the piston with the
marking side facing up.
3. After installing the rings they should rotate
freely, without sticking.
Space the ring end gaps 180 degrees apart
between top ring and upper side rail.
Space the ring end gaps 90 degrees apart
between upper side rail, spacer and lower side
rail.
NOTICE
(1)
66 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
Piston Installation
1. Place clean shop towels over the crankcase
opening to keep the piston pin clips from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the inner surface of the
connecting rod small end.
3. Place the piston (1) with the “IN” mark (2)
and/or the large valve recesses (3) facing the
intake side of the engine.
4. Apply engine oil to the piston pin (4) and
inner surface of the piston pin hole.
Install the piston pin and new piston pin clips (5).
(5) piston pin clip (6) piston cut-out
Cylinder Installation
1. Clean off any gasket material from the gasket
surface of the crankcase, being careful not to
let any material fall into the crankcase. Be
careful not to remove any metal from the
gasket surface.
2. Remove the shop towel. Do not let any gasket
debris fall into the crankcase, being careful
not to let any material fall into the crankcase.
Be careful not to remove any metal from the
gasket surface.
3. Install the dowel pins (1) and a new cylinder
gasket (2).
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(1) dowel pins
(2) cylinder gasket
4. Clean any gasket material off the cylinder.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(5)
(2)
(1)
Use new piston pin clips. Never reuse old piston
pin clips.
Do not let the piston pin clips fall into the
crankcase.
Do not align the piston pin clip end gap with the
piston cut-out (6).
NOTICE
(1) piston (4) piston pin
(2) “IN” mark (5) piston pin clip
(3) large valve recesses
Servicing Your Honda 67
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
5. Apply clean engine oil to the cylinder wall,
piston outer surface and piston rings.
Route the cam chain (3) through the
cylinder (4).
Install the cylinder over the piston rings by
hand while compressing the piston rings (5).
Do not damage the piston rings and cylinder
wall.
NOTICE
(3) cam chain (5) piston rings
(4) cylinder
6. Install the cam chain guide (6) and fit the cam
chain guide tabs (7) in the cylinder cut-outs (8).
Push the guide until it bottoms in the
crankcase guide hole.
(6) cam chain guide
(7) cam chain guide tabs
(8) cylinder cut-outs
Cylinder Head Installation
1. Install the dowel pins (1) and a new cylinder
head gasket (2).
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(1) dowel pins
(2) cylinder head gasket
(4)
(3)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(8)
(2)
(1)
(cont’d)
68 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
2. Route the cam chain through the cylinder
head.
Install the cylinder head (3).
Do not damage mating surfaces when installing
the cylinder head.
3. Apply engine oil to the cylinder head nut
threads and seating surfaces.
Install the washers and cylinder head nuts (4).
Tighten the cylinder head nuts in a crisscross
pattern in two or three steps to the specified
torque:
21 lbf·ft (29 N·m, 3.0 kgf·m)
Do not let the washers and nuts fall into the
crankcase.
NOTICE
NOTICE
4. Install the cylinder bolt (5) and cylinder head
bolts (6) and tighten them to the specified
torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Install the radiators (7) and tighten the
radiator mounting bolts/washers (8).
(3) cylinder head
(4) cylinder head nuts/washers
(5) cylinder bolt
(6) cylinder head bolts
(7) radiators
(8) radiator mounting bolts/washers
(4)
(3)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(8)
Servicing Your Honda 69
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
8. Tighten the hose clamp screws (11) as
illustrated below.
• Route the hoses correctly.
• Be careful not to damage the radiator core.
(9) radiator overflow hose
(10) water hoses
(10)
(9)
(10)
9. Install the radiator grills (12).
(12) radiator grills
10. Install the camshaft holder assembly (page 58).
11. Install the cylinder head cover (page 61).
12. Install the spark plug and direct ignition coil
(page 52).
13. Install the exhaust pipe (page 87).
14. Install the carburetor (page 116).
15. Install the fuel tank (page 31) and seat
(page 29).
16. Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
(page 41).
Check for the following:
– compression leaks
– abnormal engine noise
– secondary air leaks
– coolant leaks
(12)
0 – 0.04 in
(0 – 1 mm)
(11)
(11) hose clamp screw
6. Connect the radiator overflow hose (9).
7. Connect the water hoses (10).
70 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Loose, worn, or damaged suspension components
may adversely affect the handling and stability of
your CRF. If any suspension components appear
worn or damaged, see your dealer for further
inspection. Your dealer is qualified to determine
whether or not replacement parts or repairs are
needed.
Front Suspension Inspection
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour to ensure that the
suspension has worked in (page 16).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the
front suspension at the standard setting before
attempting any adjustments.
• For optimum fork performance, we
recommend that you disassemble and clean
the fork after riding your CRF for 3 hours.
See page 94 for fork disassembly.
• Replace the fork oil every 3 races or 7.5 hours
of running. See pages 73, 74 for oil level
adjustment after changing the fork oil.
• Use HP Fork Oil, SS-19 or an equivalent
which contains special additives to assure
maximum performance of your CRF's front
suspension.
• Periodically check and clean all front
suspension parts to assure top performance.
Check the dust seals for dust, dirt, and foreign
materials. Check the oil for any
contamination.
(1) fork protector (2) dust seal
3. Inspect the wear rings (3) for wear or damage.
Replace the wear ring if it is 0.06 in (1.5 mm)
or flat with the outer tube (4).
Remove the fork leg when replacing the wear
ring (page 94).
Install the wear ring with its end gap (5)
facing rearward.
(3) wear ring (4) outer tube
(3) wear rings (5) end gap
4. Make a quick check of fork operation by
locking the front brake and pushing down on
the handlebar several times.
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
(3)
(5)
(5)
(3)
• Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page 107). Make all rebound and
compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn
increments. (Adjusting 1/2 or more turns at a
time may cause you to pass over the best
adjustment.) Test ride after each adjustment.
• If you become confused about adjustment
settings, return to the standard position and
start over.
• If the fork is still too stif f/soft after adjusting
compression damping, determine which
portion of the travel is still too stif f/soft. This
is an important step that will help you solve
suspension problems.
1. Make sure that the fork protectors (1) and dust
seals (2) are clean and not packed with mud
and dirt.
2. Check for signs of oil leakage. Damaged or
leaking fork seals should be replaced before
your CRF is ridden.
Servicing Your Honda 71
Suspension
Rear Suspension Inspection
The swingarm is controlled by one hydraulic
shock absorber with an aluminum reservoir for
oil and nitrogen gas pressure. The gas pressure
in the reservoir is contained within a rubber
bladder.
The shock absorber’s spring pre-load and
damping adjustments (compression and rebound)
should be adjusted for the rider ’s weight and
track conditions (pages 104,106,107).
Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or
dis
pose of the damper; see your dealer. The
instructions found in this owner ’s manual are
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only.
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour with the standard
suspension settings before attempting to
adjust the rear suspension.
• Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page 107). Make all compression and
rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn
increments. (Adjusting 1/2 or more turns at a
time may cause you to pass over the best
adjustment.) Test ride after each adjustment.
• If the rear suspension is too stif f/soft, adjust it
by turning both the compression and rebound
damping adjusters in 1/4 turn increments until
the suspension feels approximately “right”.
(Turning just one adjuster, rather than both,
may cause a loss of balance between
compression and rebound damping.) After
adjusting both adjusters simultaneously,
suspension may be fine-tuned by turning
either the compression or rebound damping
adjuster in 1/4 turn increments.
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable
adjustment, return to the standard position and
begin again.
1. Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down
and check for smooth suspension action.
2. Remove the subframe (page 32).
3. Check for a broken or collapsed spring.
4. Check the rear shock absorber (1) for a bent
shaft or oil leaks.
(1) rear shock absorber
5. Push the rear wheel sideways to check for
worn or loose swingarm bearings. There
should be no movement. If there is, have the
bearings replaced by your dealer.
(1)
Suspension
72 Servicing Your Honda
Recommended Fork Oil
Fork Oil Change
1. Remove the fork cap, and fork spring as
described in Front Suspension Oil Level
(page 94).
2. Pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork tube
and piston rod (1) eight - ten times with the
rod end down as shown.
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
Improper disposal of drained oil is harmful to the
environment.
(1) piston rod
3. Pour half of the recommended fork oil into
the fork slider and fork tube.
4. Raise the fork tube (2) and cover the top of
the tube with your hand. Compress the fork
tube fully, then release your hand. Use your
other hand to secure the fork tube. Repeat
this procedure three times.
(2) fork tube
5. Pour the remaining fork oil into the piston rod
until a little oil flows out of the top of the rod.
Pump the piston rod slowly eight - ten times
through a stroke of 10 in (25 cm). Gently
slide the fork tube down onto the lower end of
the slider pipe (3).
Wait about 5 minutes.
(1) piston rod (3) lower end of the slider
(2) fork tube pipe
NOTICE
suggested oil
HP Fork Oil, SS-19
(2)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(1)
(2)
Optional Stiffer 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Servicing Your Honda 73
Suspension
1 coil at both ends
(factory products)
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
7.61 in
193.4 mm
10.14 US oz
(299.9 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Optional Softer 17.9 lbf/in (3.14 N/mm) Fork Spring
2 coils at one end;
1 coil at other end
(4)
(5)
(cont’d)
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
7.64 in
194.1 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 scribe mark
4.88 in
124.0 mm
12.04 US oz
(356.0 cm
3
)
4.83 in
122.8 mm
12.07 US oz
(357.0 cm
3
)
7.43 in
188.7 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
6. With the fork tube held upright, measure the
oil level (4) from the top of the tube.
(4) oil level
7. Adjust the oil level by adding or removing the
oil with an after market syringe (5).
(5) syringe
Fork Oil Level (CRF150R)
Standard 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
Suspension
74 Servicing Your Honda
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.43 in
137.9 mm
11.65 US oz
(344.5 cm
3
)
5.04 in
127.9 mm
11.92 US oz
(352.6 cm
3
)
7.50 in
190.6 mm
10.21 US oz
(301.9 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
2 scribe mark
1 scribe mark
(factory products)
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.55 in
141.0 mm
11.57 US oz
(342.0 cm
3
)
5.16 in
131.0 mm
11.84 US oz
(350.1 cm
3
)
7.63 in
193.7 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Optional Softer 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
1 coil at both ends
5.34 in
135.7 mm
11.71 US oz
(346.3 cm
3
)
4.95 in
125.7 mm
11.99 US oz
(354.4 cm
3
)
7.42 in
188.4 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
Fork Oil Level (CRF150RB)
Standard 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 21.3 lbf/in (3.73 N/mm) Fork Spring
Be sure to check the oil level. Some oil will be
left in the fork tube when the oil is drained and
causes the oil level to be raised slightly.
Be sure the oil level is the same in both fork legs.
If a syringe is not available, first set the oil level
somewhat lower than normal, then add small
amounts of oil until the correct level is obtained,
measuring the level each time oil is added.
8. Install the fork spring and fork cap.
Servicing Your Honda 75
Brakes
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Both the front and rear brakes are the hydraulic
disc type. As the brake pads wear, the brake
fluid level will drop. A leak in the system will
also cause the level to drop.
Frequently inspect the system to ensure there are
no fluid leaks. Periodically inspect the brake
fluid level and the brake pads for wear .
If the front brake lever or rear brake pedal
freeplay does not feel within the normal range
while riding, check the brake pads. If they are
not worn beyond the recommended limit
(page 78), there is probably air in the brake
system. Refer to the Honda Service Manual or
see your dealer to have the air bled from the
system.
(1) lock nut (3) piston
(2) adjuster
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. To position the brake lever farther away from
the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2) clockwise.
To position the brake lever closer to the
handgrip, turn the adjuster counterclockwise.
3. While holding the adjuster, tighten the lock
nut to the specified torque:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
4. Apply the brake, release it, then spin the
wheel and check that it rotates freely. Repeat
this procedure several times.
5. Check freeplay by pulling in slowly on the
front brake lever until the brake starts to
engage.
Freeplay
: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
6. Apply silicone grease to the contacting faces
of the adjuster and piston (3).
Rear Brake Pedal Height
The brake pedal height should be approximately
level with the right footpeg.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1) and turn the adjusting
bolt (2) in direction (+) to raise the rear brake
pedal (3) or in direction ( –) to lower it.
2. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque at
the desired pedal height:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
(1) lock nut (+) raise the pedal height
(2) adjusting bolt (–) lower the pedal height
(3) rear brake pedal
(1)
(2)
(3)
3/8 – 13/16 in
(10 – 20 mm)
(3)
(1)
(2)
(+)
(–)
Front Brake Lever Adjustment
76 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Fluid Level Inspection
Front Brake Fluid Level Check
(1) LWR mark
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LWR mark (1). If the level
is at or below the LWR mark, check the brake
pads for wear (page 78).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected
for leaks.
If the brake lever freeplay exceeds 0.8 in
(20 mm), there is probably air in the brake
system and it must be bled. Refer to the Honda
Service Manual or see your dealer for brake
bleeding.
Rear Brake Fluid Level Check
(1) LOWER mark
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LOWER mark (1). If the
level is at or below the LOWER mark, check the
brake pads for wear (page 78).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected
for leaks.
If the brake pedal freeplay exceeds 1.2 in
(30 mm), there is probably air in the brake
system and it must be bled. Refer to the Honda
Service Manual or see your dealer for brake
bleeding.
(1)
(1)
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks.
Check for deterioration or cracks in the hoses and
fittings.
Servicing Your Honda 77
Brakes
Adding Front Brake Fluid
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage
instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also
harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful
whenever you remove the reservoir cap; make
sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not
be compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent.
NOTICE
(1) front brake reservoir cap screws
(2) reservoir cap
(3) diaphragm
(4) upper level mark
1. Remove the front brake reservoir cap screws
(1), reservoir cap (2) and diaphragm (3).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to
the upper level mark (4). Do not overfill.
3. Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the front brake reservoir cap screws
to the specified torque:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
Adding Rear Brake Fluid
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage
instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also
harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful
whenever you remove the reservoir cap; make
sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not
be compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent.
NOTICE
(1) rear brake reservoir cap bolts
(2) reservoir cap
(3) set plate
(4) diaphragm
(5) upper level mark
1. Remove the rear brake reservoir cap bolts (1)
reservoir cap (2), set plate (3) and diaphragm (4).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to
the upper level mark (5). Do not overfill.
3. Set the diaphragm as shown.
4. Install the set plate and reservoir cap.
5. Tighten the rear brake reservoir cap bolts to
the specified torque:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(4)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(3)
(1)
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks.
Check for deterioration or cracks in the hoses and
fittings.
78 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Brake Pad Wear
Brake pad wear depends on the severity of usage
and track conditions. (Generally, the pads will
wear faster on wet and dirty tracks) Inspect the
pads at each regular maintenance interval
(page 21).
Front Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) through the front
wheel to determine the pad wear. If either pad is
worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in (1 mm),
both pads must be replaced.
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) front brake caliper
Rear Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) from the rear side of
the caliper to determine the pad wear. If either
pad is worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in
(1 mm), both pads must be replaced.
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) rear brake caliper
Other Inspections
Check that the brake lever and pedal assemblies
are positioned properly and the securing bolts are
tight.
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
minimum thickness
indicator
0.04 in
(1 mm)
(1)
(3)
(2)
replace
minimum thickness
indicator
0.04 in
(1 mm)
(1)
(2)
(3)
replace
Servicing Your Honda 79
Wheels
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Keeping the wheels true (round) and maintaining
correct spoke tension is critical to safe
motorcycle operation. During the first few rides,
spokes will loosen more rapidly due to the initial
seating of the parts. Excessively loose spokes
may result in instability at high speeds and the
possible loss of control. It ’s also important that
the rim locks are secure to prevent tire slippage.
It is not necessary to remove the wheels to
perform the recommended service in the
Maintenance Schedule (page 21). However,
information for wheel removal is provided for
emergency situations.
Wheel Rims & Spokes
(1) wheel rim (3) rim lock
(2) spoke
1. Inspect the wheel rims (1) and spokes (2) for
damage.
2. Tighten, any loose spokes and rim locks (3) to
the specified torque:
Spokes
:2.7 lbf·ft (3.7 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Rim Locks : 9 lbf·ft (12.4 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)
3. Check wheel rim runout. If runout is
noticeable, see the Honda Service Manual for
inspection instructions.
Axles & Wheel Bearings
See the Honda Service Manual for inspection
information:
1. Check the axle shaft for runout.
2. Check the condition of the wheel bearings.
(1)
(3)
(2)
80 Servicing Your Honda
Tires & Tubes
WARNING
Using tires that are excessively worn or
improperly inflated can cause a cr ash in
which you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding tire inflation and
maintenance.
Front 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
To safely operate your CRF the tires must be the
proper type (off-road) and size, in good condition
with adequate tread, and correctly inflated.
The following pages give detailed information on
how and when to check your air pressure, how to
inspect your tires for wear and damage, and our
recommendations on tire repair and replacement.
Air Pressure
Properly inflated tires provide the best
combination of handling, tread life, and riding
comfort. Generally, underinflated tires wear
unevenly, adversely affect handling, and are more
likely to fail from being overheated.
Underinflated tires can also cause wheel damage
on hard terrain. Overinflated tires make your
CRF ride harshly, are more prone to damage
from surface hazards, and wear unevenly.
Make sure the valve stem caps are secure. If
necessary, install new caps.
Always check air pressure when your tires are
“cold.” If you check air pressure when your tires
are “warm” — even if your CRF has only been
ridden for a few miles — the readings will be
higher. If you let air out of warm tires to match
the recommended cold pressures, the tires will be
underinflated.
The correct “cold” tire pressures are:
If you decide to adjust tire pressures for a
particular riding condition, make changes a little
at a time.
Inspection
Take time to inspect your tires and wheels before
you ride.
• Inspect carefully for bumps or bulges in the
side of the tire or the tread. Replace any tire
that has a bump or bulge.
• Look closely for cuts, slits, or cracks in the
tires. Replace a tire if you can see fabric or
cord.
• Check for rocks or other objects embedded in
the tire or tread. Remove any objects.
• Check the position of both valve stems. A
tilted valve stem indicates the tube is slipping
inside the tire or the tire is slipping on the
rim.
Tube Replacement
If a tube is punctured or damaged, you should
replace it as soon as possible. A repaired tube
may not have the same reliability as a new one,
and it may fail while you are riding.
Use a replacement tube equivalent to the original.
Servicing Your Honda 81
Tires & Tubes
Tire Replacement
The tires that came on your CRF were designed
to provide a good combination of handling,
braking, durability, and comfort across a broad
range of riding conditions.
• Use a replacement tire equivalent to the
original.
• Replace the tube any time you replace a tire.
The old tube will probably be stretched and, if
installed in a new tire, could fail.
Front
Rear
AC
CM
AC
CM
CRF150R
70/100 – 17 40M
70/100 – 17 40M
90/100 – 14 49M
90/100 – 14 49M
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
bias – ply, tubeTire type
K490G
M23
K695
M22
Front
Rear
AC
CM
AC
CM
CRF150RB
70/100 – 19 42M
70/100 – 19 42M
90/100 – 16 52M
90/100 – 16 52M
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
bias – ply, tubeTire type
K490
M61
K695
M58
WARNING
Installing improper tires on your
motorcycle can affect handling and
stability. This can cause a cr ash in which
you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Always use the size and type of tires
recommended in this owner’s manual.
82 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
The service life of the chain depends on proper
lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance
can cause premature wear or damage to the drive
chain or sprockets.
When the motorcycle is ridden on unusually
dusty or muddy tracks, more frequent
maintenance will be necessary.
Before servicing your drive chain, turn the
engine OFF, raise the rear wheel of f the ground
by placing the optional workstand or equivalent
support under the engine and check that your
transmission is in neutral.
Inspection
1. Turn the engine off, raise the rear wheel off
the ground by placing an optional workstand
or equivalent support under the engine and
shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Check the drive chain slack (1) in the upper
drive chain run midway between the drive (2)
and driven sprockets (3). Drive chain slack
should allow the following vertical movement
by hand:
1 3/8 – 1 3/4 in (35 – 45 mm)
(1) drive chain slack (3) driven sprocket
(2) drive sprocket
3. Check drive chain slack at several points
along the chain. The slack should remain
constant. If it isn’t, some links may be kinked
and binding. Lubricating the chain will often
eliminate binding and kinking.
Excessive chain slack may allow the drive chain
to damage the engine cases.
4. Inspect the drive chain for:
• damaged rollers
• loose pins
• dry or rusted links
• kinked or binding links
• excessive wear
Replace the drive chain (page 84) if it has
damaged rollers, loose pins, or kinks that cannot
be free. Lubricate the drive chain (page 83) if it
appears dry or shows signs of rust. Lubricate
any kinked or binding links and work them free.
Adjust chain slack if needed (page 83).
NOTICE
(1) chain slider
2. Check the chain guide slider (2) for wear .
Replace the chain guide slider if the chain is
visible through the wear inspection window (3).
(2) chain guide slider
(3) wear inspection window
(2)
(1)
(3)
(1)
(2)
(3)
Drive Chain Sliders
1. Check the chain slider (1) for wear.
If the wear is 0.2 in (5 mm) or more, replace
it.
Servicing Your Honda 83
Drive Chain
(1) drive chain roller (3) washers
(2) bolt (4) collar
(1) rear axle nut (4) index mark
(2) chain adjuster lock nut (5) axle plate
(3) adjusting bolt (6) reference mark
3. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified
torque:
65 lbf·ft (88 N·m, 9.0 kgf·m)
4. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
5. Turn the adjusting bolts counterclockwise
until it touches the axle plates lightly. Then
tighten the chain adjuster lock nut to the
specified torque while holding the adjusting
bolt with a wrench:
20 lbf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m)
(1)
(2)
(1)
(4)
(3)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(6)
Lubrication
Commercially prepared drive chain lubricants
may be purchased at most motorcycle shops and
should be used in preference to motor oil. Pro
Honda HP Chain Lube or an equivalent is
recommended.
Saturate each chain joint so that the lubricant
penetrates the space between adjacent surfaces of
the link plates and rollers.
Adjustment
1. Loosen the rear axle nut (1).
2. Loosen both chain adjuster lock nuts (2) and
turn the adjusting bolts (3) counterclockwise
to decrease slack or clockwise to increase
slack.
Align the index marks (4) of the axle plates
(5) with the same reference marks (6) on both
sides of the swingarm.
Drive Chain Rollers
1. Check the drive chain roller (1) for wear or
damage.
2. Measure the outer diameter of the drive chain
roller and replace it if below the service limit.
Service Limit:
0.7 in (18 mm)
Replace the roller if necessary as follows.
Remove the bolt (2), washers (3), collar (4) and
drive chain roller.
Install a new drive chain roller, collar, washers
and tighten the bolt.
84 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
4. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear or damage.
We recommend replacing the sprocket
whenever a new chain is installed.
Both chain and sprockets must be in good
condition, or the new replacement chain or
sprocket(s) will wear rapidly.
Excessively worn sprocket teeth have a
hooked, worn appearance. Replace any
sprocket which is damaged or excessively
worn.
Use of a new chain with worn spr ockets will
cause rapid chain wear.
5. Measure a section of the drive chain to
determine whether the chain is worn beyond
its service limit. Put the transmission in gear ,
and then turn the rear wheel forward until the
lower section of the chain is pulled taut. With
the chain held taut and any kinked joints
straightened, measure the distance between a
span of 21 pins, from pin center to pin center .
If the measurement exceeds the service limit,
replace the chain. After the chain is
measured, shift the transmission into neutral
again before proceeding with inspection and
service.
NOTICE
MEASURE A SPAN OF 21 PINS (20 PITCHES)
6. Lubricate the drive chain (page 83).
7. Pass the chain over the sprockets and join the
ends of the chain with the master link. For
ease of assembly, hold the chain ends against
adjacent rear sprocket teeth while inserting
the master link. Install the master link
retaining clip so that the closed end of the clip
will face the direction of forward wheel
rotation.
8. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
More About Drive Chain
• The master link is the most critical element of
drive chain security. Master links are
reusable, as long as they remain in excellent
condition. We recommend installing a new
master link retaining clip when the drive
chain is reassembled.
• You may find it easier to install a new chain
by connecting it to the old chain with a
master link and pulling the old chain to
position the new chain on the sprockets.
Removal, Cleaning & Replacement
For maximum service life, the drive chain should
be cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted before each
outing.
1. Remove the master link retaining clip (1) with
pliers. Do not bend or twist the clip.
Remove the master link (2). Remove the
drive chain.
(1) master link retaining clip (2) master link
2. Clean the drive chain in high flash-point
solvent and allow it to dry.
3. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or
damage. Replace the drive chain if it has
damaged rollers, loose fitting links, or
otherwise appears unserviceable.
(2)
(1)
Service limit: 10.20 in (259.0 mm)
Replacement chain:
Size/link
CRF150R
CRF150RB
DID420DS3/120
DID420DS3/126
Servicing Your Honda 85
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Inspection
Check the mounting bolts and joint nuts for
tightness.
Check the exhaust pipe and muffler for cracks or
deformation.
A damaged exhaust pipe and muffler may reduce
engine performance.
Muffler Removal
1. Remove the seat mounting bolt (1), side cover
bolt (2) and right side cover (3).
(1) seat mounting bolt (3) right side cover
(2) side cover bolt
2. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt (4).
3. Remove the muffler (5) by removing the
muffler mounting bolts (6) and washer (7).
(4) muffler clamp bolt
(5) muffler
(6) muffler mounting bolts
(7) washer
(1)
(3)
(2)
(5)
(7)
(4)
(6)
86 Servicing Your Honda
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Muffler Installation
1. Remove the old gasket.
2. Install the muffler clamp (1) by aligning the
tab (2) of the muffler clamp with the cut-out
(3) of each muffler (4).
(1) muffler clamp (3) cut-out
(2) tab (4) muffler
3. Install a new gasket (5) to the exhaust pipe
(6).
4. Install the muffler (7) to the exhaust pipe.
(5) gasket (new) (7) muffler
(6) exhaust pipe
5. Install the muffler mounting bolts (8) and
washer (9).
6. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt (10) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
7. Tighten the muffler mounting bolts (8) to the
specified torque:
24 lbf·ft (32 N·m, 3.3 kgf·m)
(8) muffler mounting bolts
(9) washer
(10) muffler clamp bolt
(11) right side cover (13) seat mounting bolt
(12) side cover bolt
(4)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(7)
(6)
(5)
(9)
(10)
(8)
(12)
(13)
(11)
8. Install the right side cover (11) and side cover
bolt (12).
9. Install the seat mounting bolt (13) and tighten
to the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Servicing Your Honda 87
Exhaust Pipe Installation
1. Install a new exhaust pipe gasket (1) as
shown.
2. Install the exhaust pipe (2) and exhaust pipe
joint nuts (3)
(1) exhaust pipe gasket (new)
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) exhaust pipe joint nuts
3. Install the muffler (page 86) but do not tighten
the bolts yet.
4. Tighten the exhaust pipe joint nuts to the
specified torque:
8 lbf·ft (11 N·m, 1.1 kgf·m)
5. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt and muffler
mounting bolts (page 86).
6. Installation can be done in the reverse order
of removal.
Exhaust Pipe Removal
1. Remove the muffler (page 85).
2. Remove the exhaust pipe joint nuts (1),
exhaust pipe (2) and old gasket (3).
(1) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) gasket (old)
(1)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(2)
88 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Steering Head Bearings Inspection
1. With your CRF on a box or optional
workstand (front wheel elevated), turn the
handlebar to the right and left to check for
roughness in the steering head bearings.
Handlebar Inspection
1. Check the handlebar (1) for bends or cracks.
2. Check that the handlebar has not moved from
its proper position (by inspecting the punch
mark (2)).
3. Check the torque of the handlebar upper
holder bolts (3):
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Tighten the front bolts first.
(1) handlebar (3) handlebar upper holder bolts
(2) punch mark
Control Cables
Periodically, disconnect the throttle, clutch and
hot start cables at their upper ends. Thoroughly
lubricate the cable pivot points with a
commercially-available cable lubricant. If the
clutch lever, hot start lever and throttle operation
is not smooth, replace the cable.
Be sure the throttle returns freely from fully open
to fully closed automatically, in all steering
positions.
(1)
(2)
(3)
88 Servicing Your Honda
Additional Maintenance Procedures
2. Stand in front of your CRF, grab the fork (at
the axle), look at the steering head, and push
the fork in and out (toward the engine) to
check for play in the steering head bearings.
If any roughness or play is felt, but you do
not see any movement in the steering head,
the fork bushings may be worn. Refer to the
Honda Service Manual for replacement or
adjustment procedures, or see your dealer.
Servicing Your Honda 89Servicing Your Honda 89
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners
before every outing.
Item
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Cylinder head cover bolts
Exhaust pipe joint nuts
Coolant drain bolt
Crankshaft hole cap
Transmission oil check
bolt
Cylinder bolt
Oil filter cover bolts
Cylinder head bolts
Drive sprocket bolt
Transmission oil drain bolt
Engine oil drain bolt
ENGINE
Torque
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
7
8
7
11
7
7
7
7
10
16
16
10
11
10
15
10
10
10
10
13
22
22
1.0
1.1
1.0
1.5
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.3
2.2
2.2
(1) cylinder head cover bolts
(2) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(3) coolant drain bolt
(4) crankshaft hole cap
(5) transmission oil check bolt
(6) cylinder bolt
(7) oil filter cover bolts
(8) cylinder head bolts
(9) drive sprocket bolt
(10) transmission oil drain bolt
(11) engine oil drain bolt
(5)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(11) (10)
RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE
90 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Frequent cleaning and polishing will keep your
Honda looking newer longer. Frequent cleaning
also identifies you as an owner who values his
motorcycle. A clean CRF is also easier to inspect
and service.
While you’re cleaning, be sure to look for
damage, wear, and gasoline or oil leaks.
General Recommendations
• To clean your CRF you may use:
– water
– a mild, neutral detergent and water
– a mild spray and wipe cleaner/polisher
– a mild spray and rinse cleaner/degreaser and
water
• Avoid products that contain harsh detergents
or chemical solvents that could damage the
metal, paint, and plastic on your CRF or
discolor the seat and decals.
• If your CRF is still warm from recent
operation, give the engine and exhaust system
time to cool off.
• We recommend the use of a garden hose to
wash your CRF. High pressure washers, (like
those at coin-operated car washes) can
damage certain parts of your CRF. The force
of water under extreme pressure can penetrate
the dust seals of the suspension pivot points
and steering head bearings-driving dirt inside
and needed lubrication out.
If you use a high pressure washer, avoid spraying
the following areas:
wheel hubs
muffler outlet
under seat
engine stop button
brake master cylinders
under fuel tank
drive chain
carburetor
steering head bearings
suspension pivot points
(1) steering head bearings
(2) suspension pivot points
High pressure water (or air) can damage
certain parts of your CRF.
You may use Pro Honda Hondabrite, a
multi-surface cleaner/degreaser, to remove both
dirt and petroleum-based grime from paint, alloy,
plastic, and rubber surfaces. Wet any heavy
deposits with water first. Then spray on the
Hondabrite and rinse with a garden hose at full
pressure. Stubborn deposits may require a quick
wipe with a sponge.
NOTICE
Washing Your Motorcycle with a Mild
Detergent
1. Rinse your CRF thoroughly with cool water to
remove loose dirt.
2. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild,
neutral detergent, such as dish washing liquid
or a product made especially for
washing motorcycles or automobiles.
3. Wash your CRF with a sponge or a soft towel.
As you wash, check for heavy grime. If
necessary, use a mild cleaner/degreaser to
remove the grime.
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it
could damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch-Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) should only be used for removing
stains on the non-coated aluminum frame only.
4. After washing, rinse your CRF thoroughly
with plenty of clean water to remove any
residue.
5. Dry your CRF with a chamois or a soft towel.
6. Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
7. Start the engine and let it idle for several
minutes. The engine heat will help dry moist
areas.
8. As a precaution, ride at a slow speed and
apply the brakes several times. This will help
dry the brakes and restore normal braking
performance.
NOTICE
(1)
(2)
90 Servicing Your Honda
Appearance Care
Servicing Your Honda 91Servicing Your Honda 91
Appearance Care
Condensation Control
Some condensation can form within the
transmission cavity as well. This is natural and
just one more reason you should change the
engine and transmission oil often.
After Cleaning Lubrication
There are some things you should do just after
washing your CRF to help prevent rust and
corrosion.
Once your CRF is clean and dry, you should
protect any bare steel from rusting by applying a
light coating of a rust-inhibitor. Lubricate the
drive chain and drive sprocket after removing
and thoroughly cleaning in solvent. Be sure the
chain is wiped clean and is dry before applying
the chain lube.
Follow the suggestions given in the pages of this
manual for lubricating items such as the brake
and clutch lever pivot points and footpeg pivot
pins.
Exhaust Pipe And Muffler Maintenance
The exhaust pipe and muffler are stainless steel
but may become stained by mud or dust.
To remove mud or dust, use a wet sponge and a
liquid kitchen abrasive, then rinse well with clean
water. Dry with a chamois or a soft towel.
If necessary, remove heat stains by using a
commercially available fine texture compound.
Then rinse by the same manner as removing mud
or dust.
92 Servicing Your Honda
Adjustments for Competition 93
Adjustments for Competition
This section tells you how to fine tune your CRF
for maximum competition performance.
Initial suspension adjustments should be
performed after a minimum of 2 hours of easy
break-in time.
Optional front and rear suspension springs are
available in both stiffer and softer than standard
rates, in order to tailor your CRF specifically for
your weight, riding style and course conditions.
Follow the instructions given in the rear
suspension sag setting section of
Rear
Suspension Adjustments
to determine if your
combined rider and sprung machine weight (rider
fully dressed for competition and machine
coolant, oil and fuel levels ready for competition)
requires an optional stiffer or softer rear spring.
The need for either optional rear spring may need
to be balanced by installing the optional fork
springs of a similar rate.
Front Suspension Adjustments...........................94
Front Suspension Air Pressure......................94
Front Suspension Oil Level ..........................94
Front Suspension Damping ........................100
Fork Springs................................................101
Rear Suspension Adjustments..........................102
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load ..............102
Rear Suspension Damping..........................103
Rear Suspension Race Sag .........................104
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions ........................................................106
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines..................107
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips ...........110
Carburetor Components ..............................110
Carburetor Circuit Functions ......................112
Carburetor Removal....................................112
Carburetor Disassembly/Assembly.............114
Standard Tuning Recommendations ...........117
Adjustments for Altitude & Temperature ...117
Optional Muffler Settings ...........................118
Special Tuning Conditions..........................119
Pre-Adjustment Checks ..............................119
Carburetor Minor Adjustments...................120
Spark Plug Reading ....................................122
Chassis Adjustments.........................................123
Rear End .....................................................123
Fork Height/Angle ......................................123
Wheelbase...................................................123
Gearing .............................................................124
Tire Selection for Track Conditions.................125
Personal Fit Adjustments .................................126
Control Positioning .....................................126
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape...........126
94 Adjustments for Competition
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
The front suspension can be adjusted for the
rider’s weight and riding conditions by using one
or more of the following methods:
•
Oil volume — The effects of higher or lower
fork oil level are only felt during the final 3.9
in (100 mm) of fork travel.
•
Compression damping — Turning the
compression damping screw adjusts how
quickly the fork compresses.
•
Rebound damping — Turning the rebound
damping screw adjusts how quickly the fork
extends.
•
Fork springs — Optional springs are
available in softer and stiffer types than the
standard rate (page 144).
Front Suspension Air Pressure
Air is an unstable gas which builds up pressure
as it is worked (such as in a fork). Air pressure
acts as a progressive spring and affects the entire
range of fork travel. This means the fork action
on your CRF will get stiffer during a race. For
this reason, release built-up air pressure in the
fork legs between motos. Be sure the fork is
fully extended with the front tire off the ground
when you release the pressure.
The standard air pressure is 0 psi (0 kPa, 0
kgf/cm
2
). You may relieve accumulated air
pressure in the fork legs by using the fork air
pressure release screws. The front wheel should
be off the ground before you release the pressure.
The air pressure should be adjusted according to
the altitude and outside temperature.
1. Place an optional workstand under the engine,
so that the front wheel is off the ground.
Do not adjust air pressure with the front wheel
on the ground as this will give false pressure
readings.
2. Remove the fork air pressure release screw (1).
3. Check that the O-ring (2) is in good condition.
4. Install and tighten the fork air pressure release
screw to the specified torque:
1.0 lbf·ft (1.3 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
(1) fork air pressure release screw (2) O-ring
Front Suspension Oil Level
• If your CRF is brand-new, put enough part-
throttle break-in time (about 1 hour) on it to
ensure that the suspension has worked in.
• For optimum performance, and extended fork
life, the fork should be completely
disassembled and cleaned after the first 3
hours of riding. See the Service Manual or
your dealer for this service.
1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support with the front wheel off the
ground.
2. Loosen the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (1)
(before loosening the fork caps to avoid
damaging the fork caps).
3. Loosen the fork caps (2), but do not remove
them yet.
Using an adjustable wrench to loosen the fork
caps may damage them.
(1) fork bridge upper pinch bolt (2) fork cap
NOTICE
Front Suspension Adjustments
(2)
(1)
(2)
(1)
Adjustments for Competition 95
Front Suspension Adjustments
4. Remove the front axle nut (3).
5. Pull the front axle shaft (4) out of the wheel
hub and remove the front wheel.
(3) front axle nut (4) front axle shaft
6. Remove the fork protectors (5) and brake
caliper (6).
• Do not support the brake caliper by the brake
hose.
• Do not operate the brake lever after the front
wheel is removed. To do so will cause
difficulty in fitting the brake disc between the
brake pads.
(5) fork protectors (6) brake caliper
7. Loosen the fork bridge lower pinch bolts (7),
then pull the fork legs down and out.
(7) fork bridge lower pinch bolts
8. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding
surface of the slider pipe (8) and dust seal (9).
The fork tube (10) can drop on the slider and
damage the fork dust seal and guide bushing (1 1)
when the fork cap is removed. To avoid damage
hold both the fork tube and slider pipe when
removing the fork cap.
(8) slider pipe (10) fork tube
(9) dust seal (11) guide bushing
9. Record the rebound damping adjuster position
and turn the adjuster screw (12) counterclockwise
until it stops.
10. Hold the fork tube (10), then remove the
fork cap (2), from the fork tube. Gently slide
the fork tube down onto the lower end of the
slider pipe (13).
(2) fork cap (12) adjuster screw
(10) fork tube (13) slider pipe, lower end
When removing the fork cap, be careful not to
damage the damping force adjuster needle rod
(14) and the needle on the rod end.
11. Remove the fork cap (2) from the piston
rod (15) by holding the lock nut (16).
12. Remove the fork spring (17).
(2) fork cap (16) lock nut
(14) adjuster needle rod (17) fork spring
(15) piston rod
NOTICE
NOTICE
(6)
(5)
(3)
(4)
(10)
(8)
(9)
(7)
(2)
(10)
(11)
(12)
(13)
(10)
(2)
(14)
(17)
(16)
(15)
(cont’d)
96 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
(18)
(15)
(19)
13. Pour the recommended fork oil into the
piston rod (15) until a little oil flows out of
the top of the piston rod. Leave the piston
rod for about one minute.
14. With the fork held upright, measure the oil
level (18) from the top of the fork tube to the
fork oil.
(15) piston rod (18) oil level
15. Adjust the oil level by adding or removing
oil with an aftermarket syringe (19).
(19) syringe
Optional Stiffer 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 coil at both ends
(factory products)
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
7.61 in
193.4 mm
10.14 US oz
(299.9 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Optional Softer 17.9 lbf/in (3.14 N/mm) Fork Spring
2 coils at one end;
1 coil at other end
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
7.64 in
194.1 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 scribe mark
4.88 in
124.0 mm
12.04 US oz
(356.0 cm
3
)
4.83 in
122.8 mm
12.07 US oz
(357.0 cm
3
)
7.43 in
188.7 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
Fork Oil Level (CRF150R)
Standard 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
Adjustments for Competition 97
Front Suspension Adjustments
• Be sure the oil level is the same in both fork
legs.
• Always use the after market syringe while
adjusting the oil level.
If it isn’t used, air may get into the fork.
• If a syringe is not available, first set the oil
level somewhat lower than the normal level,
then add small amounts of oil until the correct
level is obtained, measuring the level each
time oil is added.
(cont’d)
16. Inspect both ends of the fork spring. If you
find any roughness or burred edge on the
end of either spring, smooth the roughness
with a file and some emery cloth.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.43 in
137.9 mm
11.65 US oz
(344.5 cm
3
)
5.04 in
127.9 mm
11.92 US oz
(352.6 cm
3
)
7.50 in
190.6 mm
10.21 US oz
(301.9 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
2 scribe mark
1 scribe mark
(factory products)
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
5.55 in
141.0 mm
11.57 US oz
(342.0 cm
3
)
5.16 in
131.0 mm
11.84 US oz
(350.1 cm
3
)
7.63 in
193.7 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Optional Softer 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
1 coil at both ends
5.34 in
135.7 mm
11.71 US oz
(346.3 cm
3
)
4.95 in
125.7 mm
11.99 US oz
(354.4 cm
3
)
7.42 in
188.4 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
Fork Oil Level (CRF150RB)
Standard 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 21.3 lbf/in (3.73 N/mm) Fork Spring
(15)
(16)
(2)
(16)
(2)
98 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
(21)
(16)
17. Clean the spring and spring seat thoroughly
with a high flash point solvent to remove all
metal particles and dirt.
18. Dry the spring and spring seat with air
pressure rather than a shop towel. Using a
shop towel allows lint to stick to the springs.
Lint or any particles that stick in the damping
passages can cause inconsistent damping.
19. Turn the adjuster needle rod (14)
counterclockwise and remove it from the fork
cap (2).
Check the adjuster needle rod for bent or
damage.
Check that the O-rings (20) on the fork cap
and needle rod are in good condition. Apply
the recommended fork oil to the O-rings.
(2) fork cap (20) O-rings
(14) adjuster needle rod
20. Loosen the lock nut (16) slightly.
21. Attach a two-foot length of mechanic ’s
wire (21) to the threaded portion on the lock
nut. Wrap the wire securely around the threads.
(16) lock nut (21) mechanic's wire
22. Install the fork spring (17) as follows:
– With the fork spring held upright on its
marked end, feed the mechanic’s wire up
through the spring.
– Angle the fork spring and slowly slide it
down into the fork using a gentle rocking
motion.
23. Reaching through the two adjacent coils near
the oil lock valve, hold the spring guide (22)
with your finger.
Remove the mechanic’s wire and hand
tighten the lock nut (16) to the spring guide
(22).
(22)
(16)
(17)
(16) lock nut (22) spring guide
(17) fork spring
24. Set the adjuster screw (12) to 0.06 in
(1.5mm) from the fork cap (2) top, then
install the fork cap onto the piston rod.
(2) fork cap (12) adjuster scre w
When installing the fork cap, be careful not to
damage the damping force adjuster needle rod
and the needle or the rod end.
25. Hand tighten the fork cap (2) on the piston
rod (15) lightly until it stops, then tighten the
lock nut (16) to the fork cap to the specified
torque:
15 lbf·ft (19.7 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
NOTICE
(2) fork cap (16) lock nut
(15) piston rod
26. Temporarily thread the fork cap into the fork
tube.
27. Insert both fork legs into the fork clamps.
(12)
(2)
0.06 in
(1.5 mm)
(2)
(20)
(14)
Adjustments for Competition 99
Front Suspension Adjustments
28. Align the groove (23) in the fork tube (10)
with the top surface of the upper fork clamps
(24).
29. Temporarily tighten the fork bridge lower
pinch bolts (7) and then tighten the fork cap
(2) to the specified torque:
25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
30. For ease of releasing air pressure after the
forks are installed, loosen the fork bridge
lower pinch bolts and position the fork outer
tubes so that the fork air pressure release
screws are in front of the rebound damping
adjusters.
31. Tighten the fork bridge lower pinch bolts to
the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
32. Tighten the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (1)
to the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Over-tightening the pinch bolts can deform the
fork tubes. Deformed fork tubes must be
replaced.
(1) fork bridge upper pinch bolt (10) fork tube
(2) fork cap (23) groove
(7) fork bridge lower pinch bolts (24) upper fork clamp
33. Clean the threads of the fork protector bolts
and axle holder thoroughly.
34. Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
35. Install the fork protectors (5) and tighten the
bolts to the specified torque:
5.2 lbf·ft (7 N·m, 0.7 kgf·m)
(5) fork protectors
36. Clean the surfaces where the front axle shaft
and axle clamps contact each other.
37. Install the left and right side collars into the
wheel hub.
38. Insert the front axle shaft (4) through the
wheel hub from the right side. Make sure
the axle shaft is seated firmly onto the left
fork leg clamp inner surface.
39. Install the front axle nut (3).
40. Align the brake caliper (6) with the left fork
leg, making sure that the brake hose is not
twisted. An improperly routed brake hose
may rupture and cause a loss of braking
efficiency.
41. Clean the threads of the brake caliper
mounting bolts (25) and brake caliper
thoroughly.
42. Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
43. Install the brake caliper on the fork slider
and tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts
to the specified torque:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
Fit the brake caliper over the disc, taking car e
not to damage the brake pads.
(3) front axle nut (6) brake caliper
(4) front axle shaft (25) brake caliper mounting bolts
NOTICE
NOTICE
(cont’d)
(7)
(2)
(1)
(10)
(24)
(23)
(5)
(4)
(25)
(3)
(6)
44. With the front brake applied, pump the fork
up and down several times to seat the axle
and check front brake operation.
45. Tighten the front axle nut (3) to the specified
torque:
51 lbf·ft (69 N·m, 7.0 kgf·m)
(3) front axle nut
46. Turn the rebound damping adjuster screws
back to their original settings.
Front Suspension Damping
Compression Damping
Compression damping affects how quickly the
fork compresses.
The compression damping adjuster has 6 1/4
turns or less.
Always start with the full hard position when
adjusting damping.
To adjust to the standard position:
(1) compression damping adjuster
1. Turn the compression damping adjuster (1)
clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly
seats). This is the full hard position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 1/2 turn.
This is the standard position.
3. Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to
the same position.
Rebound Damping
Rebound damping effects how quickly the fork
rebounds.
The rebound damping adjuster has 3 turns or
less.
Always start with the full hard position when
adjusting damping.
To adjust to the standard position:
(1) rebound damping adjuster
1. Turn the rebound damping adjuster (1)
clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly
seats). This is the full hard position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 1/4 turn.
This is the standard position.
3. Make sure both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
(1)
100 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
(1)
(3)
Adjustments for Competition 101
Front Suspension Adjustments
Fork Springs
If the fork is too hard on big bumps, turn the
damping adjuster counterclockwise 1/4 turn and
lower the oil level in increments of 0.2 in (5 mm)
in both fork legs until the desired performance is
obtained. Do not, however, lower the oil level
below the minimum oil level.
Minimum oil level: (CRF150R)
Standard Spring: 7.43 in (188.7 mm)
Softer Spring: 7.61 in (193.4 mm)
Stiffer Spring: 7.64 in (194.1 mm)
Minimum oil level: (CRF150RB)
Standard Spring: 7.63 in (193.7 mm)
Softer Spring: 7.42 in (188.4 mm)
Stiffer Spring: 7.50 in (190.6 mm)
When adjusting oil levels, bear in mind that the
air in the fork will increase in pressure while
riding; therefore, the higher the oil level, the
higher the eventual pressure of any air in the
fork.
Fork Travel Characteristics
CRF150RB
Oil level: 4.83 in (122.8 mm)(MAX)
Oil level: 4.88 in (124.0 mm)(STD)
Oil level: 7.43 in (188.7 mm)(MIN)
CRF150R
Oil level: 5.16 in (131.0 mm)(MAX)
Oil level: 5.55 in (141.0 mm)(STD)
Oil level: 7.63 in (193.7 mm)(MIN)
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
The rear suspension can be adjusted for the
rider’s weight and riding conditions by changing
the spring pre-load and the rebound and
compression damping.
The rear shock absorber assembly includes a
damper unit that contains high pressure nitrogen
gas. Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or
dispose of the damper; see your dealer.
The instructions found in this owner ’s manual are
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly
only.
Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in
an explosion, causing serious injury.
Service or disposal should only be done by your
authorized dealer or a qualified mechanic,
equipped with the proper tools, safety equipment
and the official Honda Service Manual.
If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle
break-in time (about 1 hour) on it to ensure that
the suspension has worked in.
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load
An optional pin spanner is available for turning
the lock nut and adjusting nut to adjust spring
pre-load.
1. Place an optional workstand under the engine
to raise the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Remove the subframe. See page 32.
3. Check that the spring pre-load is adjusted to
the standard length. Adjust as necessary by
loosening the lock nut (1) and turning the
adjusting nut (2).
Each complete turn of the adjuster nut
changes the spring length by 0.06 in (1.5
mm).
4. After adjustment, hold the adjusting nut and
tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
(1) lock nut (3) pin spanners
(2) adjusting nut (4) spring length
To increase spring pre-load:
Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin
spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to shorten
the spring length (4). Do not shorten to less
than:
8.7 in (222 mm) ................CRF150R
8.9 in (226 mm) ................CRF150RB
To decrease spring pre-load:
Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin
spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to
increase the spring length (4). Do not increase to
more than:
9.27 in (235.5 mm) ...........CRF150R
9.25 in (235.0 mm) ...........CRF150RB
Each turn of the adjuster changes spring length
and spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring
length/spring pre-load:
0.06 in (1.5 mm)/16.5 lbf (7.5 kgf)..CRF150R
0.06 in (1.5 mm)/17.2 lbf (7.8 kgf)..CRF150RB
Pin spanners should be used for turning the lock
nut and adjusting nut.
(CRF150R)
Spring preload length (Standard spring)
Standard: 9.23 in (234.5 mm)
Min. : 8.7 in (222 mm)
Spring preload length (Optional spring)
Min. (Softer, 268.4 lbf/in (47.0 N/mm)):
8.8 in (223 mm)
Min. (Stiffer, 291.2 lbf/in (51.0 N/mm)):
8.9 in (226 mm)
(CRF150RB)
Spring preload length (Standard spring)
Standard: 9.21 in (234.0 mm)
Min. : 8.9 in (226 mm)
Spring preload length (Optional spring)
Min. (Softer, 279.8 lbf/in (49.0 N/mm)):
8.7 in (222 mm)
Min. (Stiffer, 302.6 lbf/in (53.0 N/mm)):
8.7 in (221 mm)
102 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustments
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
Adjustments for Competition 103
Rear Suspension Damping
Compression Damping
Compression damping can be adjusted with the
adjuster located on the rear shock absorber's
reservoir.
The compression damping adjuster has 3 turns or
less.
To increase damping, turn the adjuster screw
clockwise.
To decrease damping, turn the screw
counterclockwise.
(1) compression damping adjuster (3) reference mark
(2) punch mark
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the compression damping adjuster (1)
clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly
seats). This is the full hard position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 – 1 1/4
turns, and make sure that the punch mark (2)
on the adjuster aligns with the reference mark
(3) on the shock absorber.
Rebound Damping
The rebound damping adjuster (1) is located at
the lower end of the shock absorber.
The rebound damping adjuster has 3 turns or
less.
To increase damping, turn the adjuster screw
clockwise.
To decrease damping, turn the adjuster screw
counterclockwise.
(1) rebound damping adjuster (3) reference mark
(2) punch mark
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard
position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 3/8 – 5/8
turns, and make sure that the punch mark (2)
on the adjuster aligns with the reference mark
(3) on the shock absorber.
Rear Suspension Adjustments
(1)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(3)
Rear Suspension Adjustments
4. Calculate the race sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the
loaded with rider
dimension (step 3) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Standard Race Sag:
3.3 in (85 mm)
Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain
the desired handling results.
Decreasing the race sag dimension (example:
3.5 in, 90 mm) improves turning ability for
tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced
straight line stability.
Increasing the race sag dimension (example:
3.9 in, 100 mm) may improve stability on
faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce
turning performance slightly and may upset
the balance between the front and rear
suspension, producing a harsher ride. This
will happen if the adjustment shifts the
effective wheel travel toward the more
progressive end of its range.
5. Measure the
loaded without rider dimension.
Do this with your CRF set at the standard race
sag.
Rear Suspension Race Sag
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very
important for competition use.
Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel
travel used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride,
with you on the seat. As a general rule of thumb,
the race sag dimension should be about one-third
of the maximum travel.
On your CRF, ride height is changed by adjusting
the rear suspension spring pre-load.
Spring Pre-load & Race Sag
Adjustment
The following adjustment procedure establishes
the correct starting point for any suspension
tuning — the proper rear spring pre-load
adjustment for your specific needs.
Your CRF should be at normal racing weight,
including fuel and transmission oil. You should
be wearing all your normal protective apparel.
You will need two helpers.
To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary
to measure between two fixed points — from the
center of the rear fender mounting bolt to the
center of the chain adjuster lock nut as illustrated
here — for three different situations:
unloaded: motorcycle on an optional workstand
with rear suspension fully extended, no rider.
loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with
rider.
loaded without rider: motorcycle on ground,
without rider
1. Support your CRF on an optional workstand
with the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Measure the
unloaded dimension.
3. Measure the
loaded with rider dimension.
Remove the workstand. With two helpers
available, sit as far forward as possible on
your CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel.
Ask one helper to steady your CRF perfectly
upright so you can put both feet on the pegs.
Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of
times to help the suspension overcome any
situation and settle to a good reference point.
Ask the other helper to measure the
loaded
with rider
dimension.
Example:
Unloaded
= 23.4 in (595 mm)
– Loaded = 20.1 in (510 mm)
Race Sag = 3.3 in (85 mm)
UNLOADED MEASUREMENT
(without rider)
EXAMPLE: 23.4 in (595 mm)
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
LOADED MEASUREMENT
(on ground, with rider)
EXAMPLE: 20.1 in (510 mm)
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
LOADED MEASUREMENT
(on ground without rider)
EXAMPLE: 22.8 in (580 mm)
Example:
Unloaded
= 23.4 in (595 mm)
– Loaded = 22.8 in (580 mm)
Sag = 0.6 in (15 mm)
(Without Rider)
104 Adjustments for Competition
Adjustments for Competition 105
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Because of the great absorption quality of the
shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you
to notice when your CRF’s suspension is
bottoming. Some riders may think the damping
or perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh. In
reality, the problem is most likely insuf ficient
spring pre-load or a spring that is too soft. Either
situation prevents utilizing the full travel.
Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension
system may bottom slightly every few minutes at
full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this
occasional bottoming may cost more in overall
suspension performance than it is worth.
A spring that is too stiff for your weight will not
allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration
and will pass more bumps on to you.
6. Calculate the
free sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the
loaded without rider
dimension (step 5) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Free sag indicates the distance your rear
suspension should sag from the weight of the
sprung portion of your CRF.
With the spring pre-load set to obtain the
proper race sag, the rear suspension should
sag:
0.4 to 1.0 in (10 to 25 mm)
If the rear of your CRF sags less than 0.4 in
(10 mm) from its own weight, the spring is
too stiff for your weight. It is not compressed
enough, even though you have the proper race
sag adjustment. As a result, the rear
suspension will not extend as far as it should.
Spring Rates
If you are lighter or heavier than the average
rider and cannot set the proper ride height
without altering the correct spring pre-load,
consider an aftermarket shock absorber spring.
A spring that is too soft for your weight forces
you to add excessive spring pre-load to get the
right race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the
motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear
wheel to unload too much in the air and top out
as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out
from light braking, or kick sideways over lips
and square-edged terrain. It may even top-out
when you dismount your CRF.
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions
106 Adjustments for Competition
Soft Surface
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud,
consider increasing compression damping front
and rear.
Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping
to minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps
are usually larger, there’s more distance between
them, giving the shock more time to recover .
You may want a little bit stif fer front suspension
for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and
improve straight-line stability.
In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs
front and rear may help, especially if you are
heavier than the average rider. Your CRF may be
undersprung because of the added weight of the
clinging mud. This additional weight may
compress the suspension too much and affect
traction.
Hard Surface
For a fast, hard track with no lar ge jumps, you
can probably run the same spring as normal, but
run softer damping both ways-compression and
rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the
wheel will follow the rough ground and small
bumps much better, and you will hook up better.
With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns
very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground
quickly enough after each bump. The result is a
loss of traction and slower lap times.
Adjustments for Competition 107
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF , using the methods described on pages 94 – 103. Remember to make all adjustments in
1/4 turn increments. Test ride after each adjustment.
Front Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Damping
Hard-surfaced track
Sand track
Mud track
Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the char t below.
Adjust to a stiffer position.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiff er position.
– Install the optional stiff spr ing. (Adjust compression damping to a softer position and rebound damping to a stiff er position at
this time.)
Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiff er setting.
– Install the optional stiff spr ing.
Soft
suspension
Symptom
Initial travel too soft:
• Steering is too quick.
• Front end darts while cornering or riding in a straight line.
Middle travel too soft:
• Front end dives when cornering.
Final travel too soft:
• Bottoms on landings.
• Bottoms on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
Entire travel too soft:
• Front end shakes.
• Fork bottoms over any type of terrain.
Action
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Test stiffer rebound damping in 1/4 tur n increments.
If suspension isn’t stiff in initial tr avel:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
If initial travel becomes stiff because of the abo ve adjustment:
– Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spr ing.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
If initial and middle travel are stiff:
– Install the optional stiff spr ing.
If initial travel is stiff after installing the optional stiff spr ing:
– Test soft compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
If initial travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spr ing:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
If final travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spr ing:
– Increase the fork oil level in increments of 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
– Install the optional stiff spr ing.
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Increase rebound damping in 1/4 tur n increments.
Action
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Check for dirt in the dust seals. Check the fork oil for any contamination.
If the front end dives while cornering after the above adjustment:
Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 tur n increments. If that doesn’t solve the
problem, install the optional stiff spr ing.
If the stiff spring makes the suspension too stiff o ver the full range of travel:
test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments until the
desired compression damping for initial travel is obtained.
If initial travel isn’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle tr avel.)
If initial and middle travel is stiff:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 tur n increments.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle tr avel.)
If final travel is still stiff after the abo ve adjustment, or
If initial and middle travel becomes stiff:
– Install the optional soft spr ing.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
If the entire travel feels stiff after the above adjustment:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments until the
desired initial travel compression damping is obtained.
– Lower the oil level by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 tur n increments.
– Lower the oil level by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
108 Adjustments for Competition
Stiff
suspension
Symptom
Initial travel too stiff:
•
Stiff on small bumps while riding at full throttle in a str aight line.
• Stiff on small cornering bumps.
• Front end wanders while riding at full throttle in a str aight line.
Middle travel too stiff:
• Stiff on bumps when cornering.
• Front end wanders when cornering.
• Stiff suspension on bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• While braking, front end dives during initial travel, then feels stiff.
Final travel too stiff:
• Doesn’t bottom on landings, but feels stiff.
• Stiff on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• Stiff on large bumps when cornering.
Entire travel too stiff:
• Stiff suspension on any type of terrain.
Adjustments for Competition 109
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Rear Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Hard-surfaced track
Sand track
Mud track
Begin with the standard settings. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the char t below.
Lower the rear end (to improve front wheel stability) by increasing Race Sag (reduce spr ing pre-load).
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster and, especially, rebound damping adjuster to a stiff er setting.
– Increase standard Race Sag (+0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).
Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Adjust the compression and rebound damping adjusters to stiff er settings.
– Install the optional stiff spr ing.
– Reduce standard Race Sag ( –0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Suspension
Stiff
suspension
Entire travel too stiff – Test softer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Install the optional soft spring.
Symptom Action
Soft
suspension
Suspension bottoms or rear end shakes: – Test stiffer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Suspension
Rear end kicks up on deep bumps on sand track. – Test stiffer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments until the rear end does not
kick up and/or the suspension becomes stiff.
– Then test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
Symptom Action
Suspension bottoms and rear end kicks up on large bumps
on a hard-surface track.
– Test stiffer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
Rear end gets poor traction accelerating away from a
corner.
– Test softer rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments. (Test no more than 3 turns.)
– If 1/2 or 3/4 turns don’t produce satisfactory results, test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn
increments.
– After the above adjustment, check if the suspension bottoms after jumping. If it does, test stiffer compression
damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
Rear end kicks sideways and suspension feels stiff on
continuous bumps.
– Test softer rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– After the above adjustment, check if the suspension bottoms after jumping. If it does, test stiffer compression
damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
110 Adjustments for Competition
The carburetor used on your CRF should perform
suitably with the standard recommended settings
under average load, climatic, and barometric
conditions. However, to fine tune the engine ’s
power output, the carburetor may require
adjustments for specific competition needs.
Optional main jets, slow jets, leak jets and
accelerator pump diaphragms are available for
your CRF. See your dealer.
Any engine or air cleaner housing modifications
or the use of an aftermarket exhaust system may
require jetting changes.
Carburetor Components
Cold Start Circuit
A very rich mixture must be delivered to the
cylinder when a cold engine is being started.
When the choke knob (1) is pulled out, fuel is
metered by the starter jet (2) and is mixed with
air from the air passage (3) (located above the
throttle valve (4)) to provide a rich mixture for
starting. The mixture discharges through the
orifice (5) into the cylinder.
(1) choke knob (4) throttle valve
(2) starter jet (5) orifice
(3) air passage
Hot Start Circuit
A lean mixture must be delivered to the cylinder
when a hot engine is being started. When the hot
start lever is pulled back, the hot start valve (1)
opens, allowing air to be supplied to the main
bore (2) through the hot start air passage (3). This
extra air enters the air-fuel mixture from the slow
circuit resulting in a lean condition.
(1) hot start valve
(2) main bore
(3) hot start air passage
(1)
(5)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(3)
Adjustments for Competition 111
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Accelerator Pump Circuit
The accelerator pump circuit operates when the
throttle is opened. As the throttle valve (1) opens,
the pump rod (2) depresses the diaphragm (3). At
this time, the inlet check valve (4) is shut
resulting in a sharp increase in pressure in the
pump chamber (5). The outlet check valve (6)
then opens, supplying fuel to the main bore via
the accelerator nozzle (7). Leak jet (8) operation
is related to both the length of time before the
fuel starts flowing after the opening of the
throttle (time lag) and the flow amount.
(1) throttle valve (5) pump chamber
(2) pump rod (6) outlet check valve
(3) diaphragm (7) accelerator nozzle
(4) inlet check valve (8) leak jet
Slow Circuit
Fuel is metered by the slow jet (1) and mixed
with air from the air passage (2). The mixture
enters the venturi through the bypass (3) and
pilot outlet (4) that has been metered by the pilot
screw (5).
(1) slow jet (4) pilot outlet
(2) air passage (5) pilot screw
(3) bypass
Main Circuit
Fuel is metered by the main jet (1), jet needle (2)
and needle jet (3). It is then mixed with air
coming from the air jet (4) and enters the venturi
past the needle jet.
Baf
fle Plate
The baffle plate (5) prevents foaming of fuel or
abnormal fuel level around the mainjet.
Float Bowl
The float (6) and float valve (7) operate to
maintain a constant level of fuel in the float
bowl.
(1) main jet (5) baffle plate
(2) jet needle (6) float
(3) needle jet (7) float valve
(4) air jet
(1)
(8)
(7)
(6)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(3)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(4)
(2)
(7)
(1)
(3)
(5)
(6)
112 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Carburetor Circuit Functions
The carburetor has several major circuits, each
providing the fuel/air mixture over a given
portion of throttle valve opening.
These major circuits overlap as shown below.
(1) straight section (2) clip
Slow Jet and Pilot Screw
The slow jet and pilot screw affects fuel/air ratio
over fully closed to 1/4 throttle.
Adjust the pilot screw to obtain the best of f-idle
performance.
• If the engine blubbers (rich) exiting a corner ,
turn the pilot screw clockwise to lean the mixture.
• If the engine surges (lean) exiting a corner,
turn the pilot screw counterclockwise to
richen the mixture.
The minimum to maximum range of pilot screw
adjustment is 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 turns out from the
lightly seated position.
If you exceed 2 1/4 turns out, the next lar ger
slow jet is needed.
If you are under 1 1/2 turns out, the next smaller
slow jet is needed.
Leak jet
The smaller the number, the smaller the jet bore
diameter. This controls the amount of fuel returned
to the float chamber under pressure, therefore the
flow amount is increased or decreased. With a
small jet, pressure is raised faster and the elapsed
time before the fuel starts flowing is shorter .
Carburetor Removal
1. Remove the seat and fuel tank (pages 29,30).
2. Drain the remaining fuel in the float bowl by
loosening the drain screw (1).
(1) drain screw
(2)
(1)
LEANER
RICHER
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
(1)
Jet Needle
The jet needle controls fuel/air mixture over fully
closed to 3/4 throttle. The straight section (1)
affects throttle response at smaller throttle
openings. By changing the position of the clip
(2) in its groove, you can improve acceleration at
medium low and medium speed.
Main jet
The main jet affects fuel/air ratio from half (1/2)
to full throttle (4/4). The size should be reduced
at higher altitudes.
Honda carburetor jet sizes are numbered in
increments of 2 or 3. When changing the main jet
size, increase or decrease it gradually until the
desired jetting is obtained. Because Honda jet
size numbers do not correspond with other
carburetor manufacturer’s jet size numbers, use
only Honda jets.
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
seriously injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
3. Drain the carburetor into an approved gasoline
container and dispose of it in an approved
manner (page 130).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Adjustments for Competition 113
7. Release the throttle sensor wire from the wire
band (6) and clamp (7).
8. Disconnect the throttle position sensor
connector (8).
(6) wire band
(7) clamp
(8) throttle position sensor connector
9. Pull the dust cover (9) back.
10. Remove the throttle drum cover bolt (10) and
throttle drum cover (11).
11. Loosen the lock nuts (12), adjuster (13) and
disconnect the throttle cables (14) from the
throttle drum (15).
(12) lock nuts (14) throttle cables
(13) adjuster (15) throttle drum
12. Remove the hot start cable holder (16).
(8)
(7)
(6)
(11)
(10)
(9)
(16)
(2)
(2) insulator band screw
(3) connecting tube clamp screw
(4) tabs
(5) grooves
(5)
(5)
(3)
(4)
(9) dust cover
(10) throttle drum cover bolt
(11) throttle drum cover
(15)
(13)
(12)
(14)
(16) hot start cable holder
4. Tighten the drain screw.
5. Loosen the insulator band screw (2) and
connecting tube clamp screw (3).
6. When installing the carburetor, align the
carburetor tabs (4) with the insulator and
connecting tube grooves (5).
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
114 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Disassembly/Assembly
1. Pull up the cable clamp (1) and remove the
carburetor top screws (2).
Then remove the carburetor top (3).
(1) cable clamp
(2) carburetor top screws
(3) carburetor top
2. Remove the jet needle/holder assembly (4)
from the throttle valve (5).
(4) jet needle/holder assembly
(5) throttle valve
3. Remove the link arm torx screw (6).
When installing the link arm torx screw, apply
a locking agent to the link arm torx screw
threads.
4. Remove the throttle valve (5).
(7) floating valve (8) roller
When installing the floating valve (7) onto the
throttle valve (5), make sure the floating
valve’s flat side faces out and the hole (9)
faces down.
(5) throttle valve
(7) floating valve
(9) hole
(1)
(3)
(2)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(5)
(8)
(7)
(9)
(5)
(7)
(5) throttle valve
(6) link arm torx screw
5. Remove the floating valve (7) and roller (8)
from the throttle valve.
Adjustments for Competition 115
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
6. Remove the accelerator pump cover screws
(10) and accelerator pump cover (11).
(10) accelerator pump cover screws
(11) accelerator pump cover
7. Remove the U-ring (12), O-ring (13), spring
(14) and diaphragm (15).
Clean the diaphragm.
When installing the U-ring into the accelerator
pump cover (11) make sure the U-ring flatside
faces the accelerator pump cover, away from
the float bowl (16).
(11) accelerator pump cover (14) spring
(12) U-ring (15) diaphragm
(13) O-ring (16) float bowl
8. Remove the holder screw (17), throttle stop
screw holder (18), float bowl screws (19),
hose guides (20), float bowl (16) and O-ring (21).
(16) float bowl
(17) holder screw
(18) throttle stop screw holder
(19) float bowl screws
(20) hose guides
(21) O-ring
9. Remove the pump rod (22).
Clean the pump rod and rod passage (23).
Install the pump rod by pushing the rod
forcibly into the link lever (24) until it snaps
into place.
(22) pump rod (24) link lever
(23) rod passage
(25) float level (27) carburetor intake
(26) float level gauge
11. Remove the leak jet (28) from the float bowl
(16). Clean the leak jet.
10. Measure the float level (25) with the float
level gauge (26) while the float tab is just
contacting the float valve and the carburetor
intake (27) is facing up. The float level
should be 0.28 in (7.0 mm).
If the float level is out of specification,
adjust it by bending the float tab carefully.
(16) float bowl (28) leak jet
(11)
(10)
(12)
(11)
(16)
(11)
(12)
(13)
(15)
(14)
(16)
(18)
(17)(19)
(21)
(20)
(23)
(24)
(22)
(24)
(22)
(26)
(25)
(27)
(16)
(28)
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
116 Adjustments for Competition
To assemble, reverse the disassembly procedures.
To install the carburetor, reverse the removal
procedures.
Tighten the following parts to the specified
torque.
float bowl screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
float bowl plug:
3.6 lbf·ft (4.9 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)
accelerator pump cover screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
carburetor top screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
jet needle/holder assembly:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
link arm torx screw:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
throttle drum cover bolt:
2.5 lbf·ft (3.4 N·m, 0.3 kgf·m)
hot start cable nut:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
throttle cable lock nut:
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
leak jet:
0.2 lbf·ft (0.3 N·m, 0.03 kgf·m)
main jet:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
slow jet:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
(2) hot start cable
(3) throttle position sensor connector
(4) air vent hoses
(5) overflow hose
(3)
(2)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(4)
• Route the throttle cables (1), hot start cable
(2) and throttle position sensor wire correctly.
• After installing the carburetor, adjust the
throttle grip freeplay and hot start lever
freeplay.
• After installing the carburetor, check the
throttle position sensor connector (3) for
correct routing.
• After installing the carburetor, check the air
vent hoses (4) and overflow hose (5) for
kinking or pinching and correct routing.
• Check that the U-ring and O-ring are in good
condition. Replace them if necessary.
(1) throttle cables
Adjustments for Competition 117
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Standard Tuning Recommendations
For the following recommendations to be
accurate, you must use the standard settings as a
baseline. Also, don’t change any of the settings
until you’ve determined what changes are
necessary.
Adjustment
Pilot screw opening
Slow jet
Jet needle
Needle clip position
Main jet
Float level
Identification number
Standard settings
2 turns out
#38
NMQT
3rd groove
#140
0.28 in (7.0 mm)
FCR08D
Adjustments for Altitude & Temperature
All jetting recommendations are based on
standard jetting with an unmodified engine. The
following conditions can affect the fuel mixture.
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
118 Adjustments for Competition
Optional Muffler Settings
Your CRF dose not conform to AMA noise
emission regulation for 2012 year.
If you use optional AMA noise emission
regulation conformed muffler, you should change
the carburetor settings.
Adjustment
Pilot screw opening
Slow jet
Jet needle
Needle clip position
Main jet
Settings
2 1/4 turns out
#38
NMQT
3rd groove
#132
Adjustments for Competition 119
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Special Tuning Conditions
There are some unique atmospheric conditions or
situations that may require additional
adjustments.
It should not be necessary to go more than one
jet size richer or leaner to fine tune your CRF . If
larger jetting changes are necessary, check for air
leaks, blocked or restricted exhaust or fuel
systems, or a dirty air cleaner.
Condition
long straights
uphill sections
sand
mud
high humidity
raining
hotter than 113 °F (45 °C)
Main Jet Adjustment
next larger
next smaller
Once you’ve adjusted the carburetor for
temperature and altitude, it shouldn’t need major
readjustment unless race conditions change
drastically. However, there are some unique
atmospheric conditions or race day situations that
may require additional adjustments. They are as
follows.
To prevent engine damage, always adjust the
main jet before adjusting the jet needle. Always
choose the next richer jet if there is any doubt so
there is a margin for safety.
Main Jet • Go richer on the main jet by one
size when: the track has a very long
straightaway or uphill section, a
high percentage of sand, or the
track is muddy.
• Go leaner on the main jet by one
size when: it is very humid or
raining, or it is hotter than 113°F
(45°C).
After using the chart, and making any
adjustments for special conditions, it shouldn ’t be
necessary to go more than one jet size richer or
leaner to fine tune your CRF. If larger jetting
changes are necessary, check for worn crankshaft
seals, air leaks, blocked or restricted exhaust or
fuel systems, or a dirty air cleaner.
Pre-Adjustment Checks
Before adjusting carburetor settings, check the
following:
• air cleaner
• air leaks
• float level
• clogged carburetor jets
• spark plug fouling (improper heat range or
other cause)
• freshness of fuel
• owner modifications (such as exhaust system,
holes in the air cleaner housing, etc.)
• ignition timing
• compression
If the above check out, adjust the carburetor for
your specific racing conditions. Engine response
and appearance of the firing end of a spark plug
are highly indicative of the engine condition.
Refer to the list on page 143 for the optional
carburetor parts.
To prevent engine damage, always adjust the
main jet before adjusting the jet needle. If there
is any doubt — always choose the next richer jet
so there is a margin for safety.
120 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Carburetor Minor Adjustments
The standard carburetor settings are ideal for the
following conditions: sea level altitude, and 68 °F
(20°C) air temperature. If your conditions are
different, you may need to adjust the carburetor
settings, using the tuning information on pages
117 to 119. Confirm your settings are correct
before proceeding.
Minor
Adjustments
1. Adjust the carburetor setting using the tuning
information on pages 117 to 119.
2. When the engine is warm enough to run
without the choke, push the choke knob in to
its off position.
3. Adjust the pilot screw (1) to obtain the best
off-idle performance.
– If the engine blubbers (rich) exiting a
corner, turn the pilot screw clockwise to
lean the mixture.
– If the engine surges (lean) exiting a corner,
turn the pilot screw counterclockwise to
richen the mixture.
The minimum to maximum range of pilot screw
adjustments is 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 turns out from the
lightly seated position. If you exceed 2 1/4 turns
out, the next larger slow jet is needed. If you are
under 1 1/2 turn out, the next smaller slow jet is
needed.
(1) pilot screw
Adjustment Procedure
1. Turn the pilot screw in until it is lightly seated
and record the number of turns. Turn the pilot
screw out the same number of turns.
2. Warm up the engine.
3. Adjust the engine idle speed (page 48).
4. Make two or three laps of a course with the
standard setting or corrected jetting (page 117)
and spark plug. Note engine acceleration and
other engine conditions in relation to throttle
opening. Verify carburetion by removing the
spark plug and reading its firing end (page
122). It may take more than two or three laps
to get a good spark plug reading with a new
spark plug.
5. Change carburetor settings or select suitable
carburetor jets, taking into consideration the
engine conditions and factors for temperature
and altitude (page 117).
6. Adjust the pilot screw as required.
(2) drain screw (4) float bowl plug O-ring
(3) float bowl plug
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
10. Remove the float bowl plug (3).
Check the float bowl plug O-ring (4) is in
good condition. Replace it if necessary.
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
seriously injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
If you’ve determined that the main and slow jets
must be changed, you must rotate the carburetor
and remove the float bowl plug.
7. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
8. Drain the remaining fuel in the float bowl by
loosening the drain screw (2). Then tighten
the drain screw after draining the fuel.
Drain the carburetor into an approved gasoline
container and dispose of it in an approved
manner (page 130).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
9. Loosen the connecting tube clamp and
insulator band screws. Rotate the carburetor.
NOTICE
Adjustments for Competition 121
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
11. Change the main jet (5) and slow jet (6) as
required.
Main jet;
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
Slow jet:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
15. Remove the clip (11) and jet needle (12)
from the jet needle holder (13).
(11) clip
(12) jet needle
(13) jet needle holder
16. Change the clip position of jet needle or jet
needle as required.
17. Reinstall the jet needle/holder assembly and
tighten it to the specified torque:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
18. Reinstall the carburetor top, cable clamp and
carburetor top screws. Tighten the
carburetor top screws to the specified torque:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
(14) tabs
(15) grooves
(16) connecting tube clamp screw
(5)
(6)
(10)
(9)
(8)
(7)
(13)
(11)
(12)
(15)
(15)
(16)(14)
(7) carburetor top screws
(8) cable clamp
(9) carburetor top
(10) jet needle/holder assembly
19. Rotate the carburetor and align the tabs (14)
on the carburetor with the grooves (15) on
the insulator and connecting tube.
20. Tighten the connecting tube clamp screw
(16) so the gap between the tabs of the
clamp is 0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1 mm).
(5) main jet (6) slow jet
12. Reinstall the float bowl plug and tighten it to
the specified torque:
3.6 lbf·ft (4.9 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)
If you’ve determine that the jet needle or clip
position of jet needle must be changed, you must
remove the carburetor top.
13. Rotate the carburetor to the right and remove
the carburetor top screws (7), cable clamp (8)
and carburetor top (9).
14. Remove the jet needle/holder assembly (10).
0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1 mm)
(cont’d)
122 Adjustments for Competition
21. Tighten the insulator band screw (17) so the
gap between the tabs of the clamp is 0.3 ±
0.04 in (7 ± 1 mm).
(17) insulator band screw
22. Start the engine.
If the engine idle speed is too high or too
low or engine is not idling, adjust the engine
idle speed (page 48).
23. Repeat steps 4 – 22 until the engine gives
maximum power with the correct spark plug
reading. It is always better to jet a little rich
than a little lean. It is advisable to record the
settings, course conditions, lap times, and
climatic and barometric conditions for future
reference.
(17)
0.3 ± 0.04 in
(7 ± 1 mm)
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Spark Plug Reading
Refer to Spark Plug on page 52.
Check any jetting change by reading the spark
plug. The following procedure is recommended.
You may not get an accurate reading if you
simply turn off the engine and pull the plug for
inspection.
Use a new spark plug. Inspect the plug before
installing it.
Using spark plugs with an improper heat range
or incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Before removing the spark plug, clean the spark
plug area thoroughly to prevent dirt from
entering the cylinder.
Ride for 10 – 15 minutes before taking a plug
reading. A new plug will not color immediately.
To obtain an accurate reading of a new spark
plug:
1. Accelerate at full-throttle on a straight.
2. Push the engine stop button and pull the
clutch lever in to release the clutch.
3. Coast to a stop.
4. Remove the spark plug.
5. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator (1) around the
center electrode (2) should appear clean and
colorless with a gray ring around the center
electrode where it exits the porcelain.
Metallic specks indicate lean jetting that is
removing metal from the piston. Black sooty
streaks on the porcelain indicate rich jetting.
NOTICE
Condition
Normal
Overheating
(Lean)
Wet
(Rich)
Spark Plug Appearance
Dark brown to light tan
color with dry electrode
Light gray or white color
Wet or sooty
Mixture
correct
lean
rich
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may
be damaged. If a plug is too tight, the thr eads
may be damaged.
NOTICE
(1) porcelain insulator (3) side electrode
(2) center electrode
Spark Plug Coloring Guidelines
Remember that in addition to improper jetting:
• A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in
the inlet tract or exhaust system, the passage
of too much air because of the use of the
wrong air cleaner, use of a less-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system, or a hole or holes
(deliberate or unintentional) in the air cleaner
housing.
• A rich condition can be caused by a plugged
or dirty air cleaner, use of a more-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system, a clogged spark
arrester, or excessive oil on the air cleaner .
Excessive smoking will occur.
(2)
(3)
(1)
Adjustments for Competition 123
Chassis Adjustments
The following suggestions may improve a
specific concern. Subtle changes in overall
handling may also be noted.
Rear End
If you have a problem with rear wheel traction,
raise the rear end of your CRF by increasing the
rear spring pre-load. Instead of running 3.3 in
(85 mm) of sag, you can run 3.1 in (80 mm) or 3.0
in (75 mm) so the rear of the bike will sit a little
higher. This should produce more traction
because of the change to the swingarm and
location of your CRF’s center of gravity.
If you have a problem with the steering head
shaking when you use the front brake hard or if
your CRF wants to turn too quickly, lower the
rear of the motorcycle by reducing the rear spring
pre-load. This will increase fork rake and trail
and should improve stability in a straight line.
The effective suspension travel will be
transferred toward the firmer end of wheel travel.
Keep the race sag adjustment (page 104) in the
3.3 – 4.1 in (85 – 105 mm) range.
Wheelbase
Adjusting your CRF’s wheelbase can offer subtle
changes in overall handling. You may adjust
wheelbase by adding or removing links on the
drive chain. If you change the wheelbase, be
sure to recheck race sag and adjust it, if necessary .
In the past, a general rule was lengthen the
wheelbase to add straight line stability, shorten
the wheelbase to improve turning. However, we
suggest you do not lengthen the wheelbase of
your CRF unless you are racing on a track with
more fast sections than normal.
As a general recommendation, keep the
wheelbase as short as possible. This positions
the wheels closer together, improves turning
response, increases weighting (traction) on the
rear wheel, and reduces weight on the front
wheel.
With your CRF, you will probably find that the
standard setting or a shorter wheelbase will of fer
more overall benefits.
(2)
(1)
(1) groove (2) upper fork clamp
Fork Height/Angle
The position of the fork tubes in the clamps is
not adjustable. Align the groove in the outer tube
with the top surface of the upper fork clamp.
Standard Position
Align the groove (1) in the outer tube with the
top surface of the upper fork clamp (2).
124 Adjustments for Competition
Gearing
You can “adjust” the power delivery of the
standard engine to suit track conditions by
changing gearing. This allows you to utilize a
different portion of the engine’s power range at a
given throttle setting. New gearing may provide
the change you are looking for without the need
to consider further modifications.
The portion of your engine’s power range you
use can be adjusted by changing the final drive
ratio with different sized rear sprockets. Gearing
changes allow you to more closely match the
type of terrain and the available traction.
Normally, a change of one tooth on the driven
sprocket will be sufficient.
There is a choice of both higher and lower final
drive ratios with three optional aluminum driven
sprockets. For muddy or sandy courses, standard
steel driven sprocket is a more durable. Like the
optional springs, these sprockets are listed in the
Optional Parts List section of this manual.
Unless you have the required mechanical
knowhow, tools, and an official Honda Service
Manual, sprocket changing should be done by
your dealer.
Higher Gearing (less driven sprocket teeth)
• increases top speed in each gear (provided the
engine will pull the higher gearing)
• reduces frequency of shifting (wider gear
ratios)
• reduces engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may allow better rear
wheel traction on slippery or loose terrain)
However:
• the engine may not pull the higher gearing
• the spacing between gears may be too wide
• engine rpm may be too low
Lower Gearing (more driven sprocket teeth)
• decrease top speed in each gear
• increases frequency of shifting (narrower gear
ratios)
• increases engine rpm at a given throttle
setting or ground speed (which may provide
more power-to-the-ground on good traction
surfaces)
However:
• spacing between gears may be too narrow
• engine rpm may be too high
Some tracks may be watered heavily prior to the
first race, then lightly or not at all during the day .
This results in a track surface that is slippery
during the first few races, then changes from
good to great and back to good, and possibly
ends the day with a slick rock-hard consistency.
Ideally, your gearing should be adjusted to suit
all these conditions.
• Wet and slippery or sandy conditions: use a
higher gear (less teeth) to keep engine rpm
down, and avoid unwanted wheelspin. The
engine may bog in certain corners so you ’ll
need to slip the clutch to compensate;
downshifting may be too drastic a change in
speed.
• Average conditions: use the standard sprocket.
• Hard (but not slippery) track conditions: use
lower gearing (more teeth) to keep the engine
rpm high where the engine produces the most
power. This may require an extra upshift on
certain sections or perhaps you can just rev it
out a bit longer.
For tight tracks, consider lower gearing to avoid
having to slip the clutch frequently. Repeated
fanning or pulling of the clutch lever in a turn to
raise engine rpm may eventually damage the
clutch system.
A gearing change may help for riding in sand,
where you want to keep the front end light so it
can float from the peak of one sand whoop to the
next. Generally, with higher gearing, it is easier
to maintain that perfect attitude (maximum rear
wheel traction and a light front end) because you
remain in the powerband longer in each gear .
The higher gearing allows you to steer more
efficiently with throttle control and body English.
If you are riding a track with sections where you
choose to over-rev the engine temporarily rather
than shifting up, higher gearing might help.
Sometimes you have to sacrifice performance on
one section of the track to gain a better overall
time. Your goal is the fastest overall lap time,
even if the trade-off is gearing that feels wrong in
some sections.
If you decide to try a gearing change, have
someone check your times with a stopwatch
(before and after the change) to get an accurate
appraisal of the gearing change. “Seat-of-the-
pants” feelings can’t be trusted. Eliminating
wheelspin with a gearing change can make you
feel like you’re going slower when, in reality,
you’ve decreased your time by increasing your
speed with better traction.
These gearing recommendations should be
evaluated by considering your ability, your riding
style, and the track.
Adjustments for Competition 125
Tire Selection for Track Conditions
Choosing the correct tire tread pattern and rubber
compound can affect your placing in competition.
The tires on your CRF offer a “happy medium”
for the variety of soil conditions the majority of
riders are likely to encounter.
Experienced competitors often switch to tires
developed for specific terrain conditions. If you
do switch, stay with the factory recommended
sizes. Other tires may affect handling or
acceleration.
Be aware that tire sizes (width and aspect ratio)
do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer or
even among tires made by the same
manufacturer. Variations in tires, especially the
sidewall profile, can change the attitude of your
CRF and its handling. Tire variations that raise
or lower the rear of your CRF have a more
significant effect on handling than variations in
front tires which, generally, don’t vary as much.
Often, you can see or feel the change in tire size.
Another way to check is to measure the rolling
circumference of the old and new tires. A higher
profile tire will have a larger rolling
circumference.
If you do switch to tires designed for special
terrain use, remember they will be less
acceptable in other circumstances. For example,
an aggressive mud tire will give excellent grip on
wet, loamy terrain, but less impressive grip on a
hard surface.
If you choose a tire with a sticky compound for
added traction, remember that it may transfer
additional loads to the transmission because it
grips so well, especially when riding in situations
that normally place unusual demands on the
transmission.
Complete consumer information can be obtained
from the various tire manufacturer
representatives and dealers.
Some general recommendations for specific
terrain follow:
Hard, Slick Soil
Use tires with many relatively short knobs that
are close together in order to obtain the lar gest
possible contact patch on the surface. The rubber
compound needs to be softer for hard ground in
order to hook up, but not so soft that the knobs
roll over easily and affect holding a straight line.
These tires tend to wear more quickly than
standard tires because of the combination of soft
rubber and hard terrain.
Muddy Soil
Use a more open tread pattern to avoid clogging.
For these conditions, the relatively long knobs
will probably be made from a harder rubber
compound to reduce any tendency to bend back
under acceleration or wear quickly.
Loose, Sandy Soil
Use a tire that is similar in construction to those
needed for tacky soil and mud, but with a few
more knobs.
126 Adjustments for Competition
Personal Fit Adjustments
The following suggestions may make your ride
both more comfortable and more responsive to
your control input.
Control Positioning
• Position the control levers so that you can use
them comfortably when seated and standing.
• Adjust the mounting bolt torque of the clutch
and brake lever assemblies so that they can
rotate on the handlebar in a fall. If an
assembly does not rotate, it may bend or
break a control lever. Make sure that the
bolts are torqued securely enough to prevent
slippage during normal operation.
Apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent to
the threads of these bolts prior to adjustment to
help ensure the correct torque is retained.
Tighten the top bolts first.
(1) control lever mounting bolts
As an alternative, consider wrapping the
handlebar area under the control assemblies with
teflon tape. Then tighten the assemblies to their
normal torque. Upon impact, the fully-tightened
assemblies should rotate on the teflon tape.
• Position the shift lever and brake pedal so
they are close to your boot for rapid access,
but not so close that either is depressed when
sitting or standing comfortably on your CRF.
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape
• Position the handlebar so that both gripping
the bar and operating the controls is
comfortable while both seated and standing,
while riding straight ahead and turning.
Tighten the forward bolts first.
• Be sure to check control cable and wiring
harness routing after the adjustment.
• Chamfer the edges to remove burrs and other
irregularities or roughness after sawing the
handlebar.
• An alternate handlebar shape, through varying
rise or rearward sweep dimensions, will
provide further adjustment to riding position
and may better suit your particular body size
or riding style. Each of the ergonomic
dimensions of the machine were determined
to suit the greatest possible number of riders
based on an average size rider.
(1)
(1)
• Handlebar width can be trimmed with a
hacksaw to better suit your particular shoulder
width and riding preference. Think this
through carefully and cut off just a small
amount at a time from both sides equally. It is
obviously much easier to make the handlebar
narrower than it is to add material.
Tips 127
Tips
Here’s helpful advice on how to transport and
store your Honda, as well as three
troubleshooting flow charts.
Transporting Your Motorcycle .........................128
Storing Your Honda..........................................129
Preparation for Storage ...............................129
Removal from Storage ................................129
You & the Environment ...................................130
Troubleshooting................................................131
Transporting Your Motorcycle
128 Tips
If you use a truck or motorcycle trailer to
transport your Honda, we recommend that you
follow these guidelines:
• Use a loading ramp.
• Make sure the fuel valve is off.
• Secure the motorcycle in an upright position,
using motorcycle tie-down straps. Avoid
using rope, which can loosen and allow the
motorcycle to fall over.
To secure your CRF, brace the front wheel
against the front of the truck bed or trailer rail.
Attach the lower ends of two straps to the tie-down
hooks on your CRF. Attach the upper ends of the
straps to the handlebar (one on the right side, the
other on the left), close to the fork.
Check that the tie-down straps do not contact any
control cables or electrical wiring.
Tighten both straps until the front suspension is
compressed about half-way. Too much pressure
is unnecessary and could damage the fork seals.
Use another tie-down strap to keep the rear of the
motorcycle from moving.
We recommend that you do not transport your
CRF on its side. This can damage the
motorcycle, and leaking gasoline could be a
hazard.
Storing Your Honda
Tips 129
If you won’t be riding for an extended period,
such as during the winter, thoroughly inspect
your Honda and correct any problem before
storing it. That way, needed repairs won’t be
forgotten and it will be easier to get your CRF
running again.
To reduce or prevent deterioration that can occur
during storage, also follow the following
procedures.
Preparation for Storage
1. Completely clean all parts of your CRF. If
your CRF has been exposed to sea air or salt
water, wash it down with fresh water and
wipe dry.
2. Change the engine oil and filter (page 37).
3. Replace the transmission oil (page 40).
4. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank and carburetor
into an approved gasoline container.
Turn the fuel valve OFF and loosen the
carburetor drain screw. Drain gasoline into an
approved container. Retighten the drain screw.
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
seriously injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
5. Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain
bolt/sealing washer (1) at the water pump (2) to
drain coolant.
After the coolant has been completely
drained, ensure that the drain bolt sealing
washer is in good condition and install the
drain bolt/sealing washer and radiator cap.
Coolant drain bolt:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
Removal from Storage
1. Uncover and clean your CRF.
Change the engine and transmission oil if
more than 4 months have passed since the
start of storage.
2. Uncover the end of the muffler and remove
the rag from the muffler outlet.
3. Fill the fuel tank with the recommended fuel
(page 34).
4. Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
(page 41) slowly into the radiator fill hole up
to the filler neck.
Capacity:
0.80 US qt (0.76R)
after disassembly
Lean your CRF slightly right and left several
times to bleed trapped air in the cooling
system.
If the coolant level lowers, add coolant and
repeat the above procedure.
Install the radiator cap securely.
5. Perform all maintenance checks (page 9).
(1)
(2)
(1) coolant drain bolt/sealing washer (2) w ater pump
6. Lubricate the drive chain.
7. Inflate the tires to their recommended
pressures.
8. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent to raise both tires off the ground.
9. Stuff a rag into the muf fler outlet. Then tie a
plastic bag over the end of the muf fler to
prevent moisture from entering.
10. Store your CRF in an unheated area, free of
dampness, away from sunlight, with a
minimum of daily temperature variation.
11. Cover your CRF with a porous material.
Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing,
coated materials that restrict air flow and
allow heat and moisture to accumulate.
You & the Environment
130 Tips
Owning and riding a motorcycle can be
enjoyable, but you must do your part to protect
nature. When you show respect for the land,
wildlife, and other people, you also help preserve
the sport of off road riding.
Following are tips on how you can be an
environmentally responsible motorcycle owner.
•
Choose Sensible Cleaners. Use a
biodegradable detergent when you wash your
CRF. Avoid aerosol spray cleaners that
contain chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) which
damage the atmosphere’s protective ozone
layer. Don’t throw cleaning solvents away;
see the following guidelines for proper
disposal.
•
Recycle Wastes. It’s illegal and thoughtless to
put used engine oil in the trash, down a drain,
or on the ground. Used oil, gasoline, and
cleaning solvents contain poisons that can hurt
refuse workers and contaminate our drinking
water, lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Before changing your oil, make sure you have
the proper containers. Put oil and other toxic
wastes in separate sealed containers and take
them to a recycling center. Call your local or
state office of public works or environmental
services to find a recycling center in your area
and get instructions on how to dispose of
nonrecyclable wastes.
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
Troubleshooting
Tips 131
The items that are serviceable using this Manual
are followed by the page number reference in
parenthesis. The items that require use of the
Honda Service Manual are followed by an
asterisk (
*
).
ENGINE DOES NOT START OR IS HARD TO START
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the fuel
flow to carburetor
REACHING
CARBURETOR
NOT REACHING
CARBURETOR
WEAK OR NO
SPARK
LOW
ENGINE STARTS
BUT SOON STOPS
2. Try spark test
*
GOOD SPARK
• No fuel in fuel tank
• Clogged fuel line or
fuel filter (P.34)
• Sticking float valve
*
• Clogged fuel fill cap
breather tube
• Faulty spark plug (P.52)
• Fouled spark plug (P.52)
• Faulty ignition control
module
*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil wire
• Faulty exciter coil
*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil
• Faulty engine stop button
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator
*
3. Test cylinder
compression
*
NORMAL
• Valve stuck open
• Worn cylinder and piston
ring
*
• Leaking/damaged
cylinder head gasket
• Improper valve timing
*
• Seized valve
4. Start by following
normal starting
procedure
ENGINE DOES
NOT FIRE
• Improper choke operation
• Pilot screw incorrectly
adjusted
*
• Insulator leaking
• Improper ignition timing
(Faulty direct ignition coil
or ignition pulse
generator)
*
• Fuel contaminated
• Improper hot start
operation (P. 13)
WET PLUG
5. Remove and
inspect spark plug
DRY
• Carburetor flooded
• Choke closed
• Throttle valve open
• Air cleaner dirty (P. 43)
6. START WITH CHOKE ON
POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW AND UNSTABLE
IDLE SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check if air
cleaner is over-
oiled (P.43)
CORRECT
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
LEAKING
CLOGGED
INCORRECT
LOW
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
CORRECT
CORRECT
NOT LEAKING
NOT CLOGGED
GOOD SPARK
2. Check if the
connecting tube
and/or insulator
is leaking
3. Check carburetor
pilot screw
adjustment
4. Check carburetor
jets and accelerator
pump for clogs
5. Try spark test
6. Check the throttle
position sensor
*
CORRECT
7. Test cylinder
compression
*
• Over-oiled air cleaner
• Loose connecting tube
and/or insulator band
• Damaged connecting
tube and/or insulator
• Fuel-air mixture too
lean (Turn the pilot
screw out) (P.120)
• Fuel-air mixture too rich
(Turn the pilot screw in)
(P. 120)
• Contaminants in the
fuel
• Not cleaned frequently
enough (P.112)
• Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.52)
• Faulty ignition control
module
*
• Faulty exciter coil
*
• Faulty engine stop
button
• Faulty direct ignition coil
*
• Broken or shorted
direct ignition coil wire
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator
*
• Faulty throttle position
sensor
*
• Ring worn
• Cylinder worn or
damaged
*
• Piston worn or
damaged
*
• Head gasket not
sealing
• Valve stuck open
POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Disconnect fuel
line at carburetor
and check for
clogging (P.34)
UNRESTRICTED
FUEL FLOW
FUEL FLOW
RESTRICTED
CONDITION
WORSE
DIRTY
2. Remove air
cleaner (P.43)
AIR FILTER
NOT DIRTY
• Lack of fuel in tank (P.34)
• Clogged fuel line (P.34)
• Clogged fuel fill
cap breather tube (P.34)
• Clogged fuel filter (P.35)
• Clogged fuel valve (P.34)
• Not cleaned
frequently enough
(P.43)
CLOGGED
INCORRECT
LOW
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
NOT CLOGGED
CORRECT
CORRECT
GOOD SPARK
4. Check carburetor
jets for clogging
5. Check valve
timing
6. Try spark test
7. Test cylinder
compression
*
• Contaminants in
the fuel
CORRECT
3. Install a larger
carburetor main
jet (P. 117)
• Jet size wrong, rejet
in the opposite
direction (P.120)
• Cam sprocket not
installed properly
• Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark pulg
(P.52)
• Faulty ignition control
module
*
• Faulty exciter coil
*
• Faulty engine stop button
• Faulty direct ignition coil
*
• Broken or shorted
direct ignition coil wire
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator
*
• Ring worn
• Cylinder worn or damaged
• Piston worn or damaged
• Head gasket not sealing
• Valve stuck open
132 Tips
Technical Information
Technical Information 133
This section contains dimensions, capacities, and
other technical data.
Vehicle Identification .......................................134
Specifications ...................................................135
Torque Specifications.......................................137
Oxygenated Fuels .............................................140
Competition Logbook ......................................141
Optional Parts List ...........................................143
Spare Parts & Equipment .................................145
Wiring Diagram................................................146
Vehicle Identification
134 Technical Information
Serial Numbers
The VIN and engine serial number are required
when you register your CRF. They may also be
required when ordering replacement parts. You
may record these numbers in the Quick
Reference section at the rear of this manual.
The VIN (vehicle identification number) (1) is
stamped on the right side of the steering head.
RIGHT SIDE
(1) VIN
The engine number (2) is stamped on the left
crankcase.
LEFT SIDE
(2) engine number
(1)
(2)
Specifications
Technical Information 135
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Wheelbase
Seat height
Footpeg height
Ground clearance
Item
CRF150R
English
72.1 in
30.3 in
44.6 in
49.6 in
32.8 in
14.9 in
11.9 in
Metric
Type
Dimension
Frame
F. suspension
R. suspension
Front tire
Semi double cradle
Telescopic fork
travel 9.5 in (241 mm)
stroke 10.8 in (275 mm)
Pro-link
travel 10.7 in (272 mm)
70/100 – 17 40M
CM
AC
DUNLOP K490G
70/100 – 17 40M
BRIDGESTONE
M23
90/100 – 14 49M
CM
AC
DUNLOP K695
90/100 – 14 49M
BRIDGESTONE
M22
Rear tire
bias-ply, tube
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire type
Tire pressure, front (cold)
Tire pressure, rear (cold)
F. brake, swept area
R. brake, swept area
Fuel capacity
Caster angle
Trail length
Fork oil capacity
Single disc brake
55.5 in
2
(358.1 cm
2
)
Single disc brake
46.6 in
2
(300.7 cm
2
)
Fuel recommendation
unleaded gasoline, pump
octane number of 91 or
higher
27°2’
1.14 US gal
3.1 in
12.04 US oz
4.3R
78 mm
356 cm
3
Item English
2.60 x 1.72 in
0.28 in
0.80 US qt 0.76R
Cylinder arrangement
Bore and stroke
Displacement
Compression ratio
Valve clearance Intake:
Exhaust:
0.006 ± 0.001 in
(0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
0.010 ± 0.001 in
(0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
After draining
After draining and
oil filter change
After disassembly
After disassembly
Transmission oil
capacity
After draining
Type
Identification number
Main jet (standard)
Jet needle (standard)
Piston valve
FCR08D
# 140
NMQT
Needle clip position
(standard)
Slow jet (standard)
Pilot screw opening
Float level
Idle speed
Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Single 19° inclined from
vertical
0.59 US qt
0.62 US qt
0.74 US qt
0.60 US qt
0.69 US qt
3rd groove
# 38
2 turns out
2,100 ± 100 rpm
Type
Metric
0.56R
0.59R
0.70R
0.57R
0.65R
66.0 x 43.7
mm
7.0 mm
Engine
Carburetor
Cooling System
Coolant capacity
After disassembly
11.7 : 1
Clutch type
Transmission
Primary reduction
Gear ratio I
Gear ratio II
Gear ratio III
Gear ratio IV
Gear ratio V
Final reduction
Item English Metric
Drive train
Electrical
Wet, multi-plate type
5-speed, constant mesh
4.117
2.214
1.647
1.318
1.105
0.956
3.333
Gear shift pattern
Ignition
Starting system
Spark plug :
Standard
ICM
Kickstarter
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
NGK CR8EH-9
DENSO U24FER9
Spark plug gap
0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
Optional NGK CR9EH-9
DENSO U27FER9
1,832 mm
770 mm
1,133 mm
1,260 mm
832 mm
379 mm
301 mm
9.13 cu-in 149.7 cm
3
136 Technical Information
Specifications
CRF150RB
Item English
2.60 x 1.72 in
0.28 in
0.80 US qt 0.76R
Cylinder arrangement
Bore and stroke
Displacement
Compression ratio
Valve clearance Intake:
Exhaust:
0.006 ± 0.001 in
(0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
0.010 ± 0.001 in
(0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
After draining
After draining and
oil filter change
After disassembly
After disassembly
Transmission oil
capacity
After draining
Type
Identification number
Main jet (standard)
Jet needle (standard)
Piston valve
FCR08D
# 140
NMQT
Needle clip position
(standard)
Slow jet (standard)
Pilot screw opening
Float level
Idle speed
Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Single 19° inclined from
vertical
0.59 US qt
0.62 US qt
0.74 US qt
0.60 US qt
0.69 US qt
3rd groove
# 38
2 turns out
2,100 ± 100 rpm
Type
Metric
0.56R
0.59R
0.70R
0.57R
0.65R
66.0 x 43.7
mm
7.0 mm
Engine
Carburetor
Cooling System
Coolant capacity
After disassembly
11.7 : 1
Clutch type
Transmission
Primary reduction
Gear ratio I
Gear ratio II
Gear ratio III
Gear ratio IV
Gear ratio V
Final reduction
Item English Metric
Drive train
Electrical
Wet, multi-plate type
5-speed, constant mesh
4.117
2.214
1.647
1.318
1.105
0.956
3.733
Gear shift pattern
Ignition
Starting system
Spark plug :
Standard
ICM
Kickstarter
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
NGK CR8EH-9
DENSO U24FER9
NGK CR9EH-9
DENSO U27FER9
Optional
Spark plug gap
0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
9.13 cu-in 149.7 cm
3
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Wheelbase
Seat height
Footpeg height
Ground clearance
Item English
74.8 in
30.3 in
46.1 in
50.6 in
34.1 in
16.3 in
13.2 in
Metric
Type
Dimension
Frame
F. suspension
R. suspension
Front tire
Semi double cradle
Telescopic fork
travel 9.5 in (241 mm)
stroke 10.8 in (275 mm)
Pro-link
travel 11.1 in (282 mm)
70/100 – 19 42M
CM
AC
DUNLOP K490
70/100 – 19 42M
BRIDGESTONE
M61
90/100 – 16 52M
CM
AC
DUNLOP K695
90/100 – 16 52M
BRIDGESTONE
M58
Rear tire
bias-ply, tube
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire type
Tire pressure, front (cold)
Tire pressure, rear (cold)
F. brake, swept area
R. brake, swept area
Fuel capacity
Caster angle
Trail length
Fork oil capacity
Single disc brake
55.5 in
2
(358.1 cm
2
)
Single disc brake
46.6 in
2
(300.7 cm
2
)
Fuel recommendation
unleaded gasoline, pump
octane number of 91 or
higher
27°48’
1.14 US gal
3.8 in
11.57 US oz
4.3R
96 mm
342 cm
3
1,900 mm
770 mm
1,171 mm
1,285 mm
866 mm
413 mm
336 mm
Torque Specifications
Technical Information 137
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before every outing.
Engine
Item
ENGINE
1
2
3
4
6
7
8
9
10
11
NOTES: 1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and seating surface.
4. Alock bolt.
5. Apply grease to the threads.
6. Apply locking agent to the threads.
Cylinder head cover bolts
Exhaust pipe joint nuts
Coolant drain bolt
Crankshaft hole cap
Cylinder bolt
Oil filter cover bolts
Cylinder head bolts
Drive sprocket bolt
Transmission oil drain bolt
Engine oil drain bolt
Torque
Remarks
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
7
8
7
11
7
7
7
7
10
16
16
10
11
10
15
10
10
10
10
13
22
22
1.0
1.1
1.0
1.5
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.3
2.2
2.2
NOTE 5
NOTE 3
NOTE 3
Transmission oil check
bolt
5
(9)
(7)
(6)
(8)
(10)(11)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(5)
RIGHT SIDE
LEFT SIDE
Torque Specifications
138 Technical Information
Frame
Item
11
Swingarm pivot nut
Torque
Remarks
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
61 83 8.5
9
Middle engine mounting
nut
47 64 6.5
8
Front engine hanger
bracket nut (8 mm)
25 34 3.5
7
Front engine hanger
bracket nuts (10 mm)
47 64
6.5
Rear axle nut
65 88 9.0
5 Front axle nut
51 69 7.0
Shock spring lock nut
Kickstarter arm bolt
32
28
44
38
4.5
3.9
13
Rear shock link nuts
(frame side)
32 44 4.5
Rear shock arm nuts
(swingarm side)
(shock link side)
32
32
44
44
4.5
4.5
12
14
15
16
NOTE 1
NOTE 1
NOTE 1
10
Throttle cable adjuster
lock nut
3.0 4.0 0.4
17
Brake lever adjuster
lock nut
4.4 5.9 0.6
18
Brake pedal adjuster
lock nut
4.4 5.9 0.6
19
Shock absorber
32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
6
Chain adjuster lock nuts
20 27 2.8 NOTE 2
NOTE 1
NOTE 1
4 Handlebar upper holder
bolts
16 22 2.2
3
Fork bridge lower pinch
bolts
16 22 2.2
2
Fork bridge upper pinch
bolts
16 22 2.2
1 Steering stem nut
94 128 13.1
FRAME
1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and flange surface.
4. Alock bolt.
5. Apply grease to the threads.
6. Apply locking agent to the threads.
NOTES:
(1)
(4)
(2)
(3)
(5)
(12)
(8)
(10)(16)(14)
(11)
(7)
(9)
(6)
(2)
(13)
(19)
(15)
(18)
(17)
Torque Specifications
Technical Information 139
Item
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
Brake hose bolts
Brake caliper mounting
bolts
Fork cap
Fork cap lock nut
Fork protector bolts
Muffler mounting bolts
Muffler clamp bolt
Driven sprocket nuts
Seat mounting bolts
Subframe upper/lower
mounting bolts
Torque
Remarks
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
25 34 3.5
15
24
2.7
9
20
32
3.7
12.4
2.0
3.3
0.4
1.3
22 30 3.1
Fork air pressure release
screw
Fuel valve bolts
Rear brake reservoir
cap bolts
Front brake reservoir
cap screws
34
35
36
37
1.1 1.5 0.2
1.1 1.5 0.2
1.0 1.3 0.1
7 10 1.0
NOTE 4
NOTE 1
NOTE 4
22
25
15
5.2
24
15
24
19
30
34
19.7
7
32
21
32
26
3.1
3.5
2.0
0.7
3.3
2.1
3.3
2.7
NOTE 4
1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and flange surface.
4. Alock bolt.
5. Apply grease to the threads.
6. Apply locking agent to the threads.
NOTES:
FRAME
Brake disc bolts
Brake pedal pivot bolt
Spokes
Rim locks
Frame
(27)
(28)
(22)
(37)
(26) (33)
(32)
(20)
(21)
(34)
(36)
(24)
(25)
(29)(23)
(22)
(35)
(33)
(31)(30)
140 Technical Information
Oxygenated Fuels
Some conventional gasolines are being blended
with alcohol or an ether compound. These
gasolines are collectively referred to as
oxygenated fuels. To meet clean air standards,
some areas of the United States and Canada use
oxygenated fuels to help reduce emissions.
If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is
unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating
requirement.
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm
the fuel’s contents. Some states/provinces
require this information to be posted on the
pump.
The following are the EPA-approved percentages
of oxygenates:
ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol) 10% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 10%
ethanol by volume. Gasoline containing ethanol
may be marketed under the name “Gasohol”.
MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether) 15% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 15%
MTBE by volume.
METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol) 5% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing methanol
containing up to 15% methanol by volume as
long as it contains cosolvents and corrosion
inhibitors to protect the fuel system. Gasoline
containing more than 5% methanol by volume
may cause starting and/or performance problems.
It may also damage metal, rubber, and plastic
parts of your fuel system.
If you notice any undesirable operating
symptoms, try another service station or switch
to another brand of gasoline.
Fuel system damage or performance problems
resulting from the use of an oxygenated fuel
containing more than the percentages of
oxygenates mentioned above are not covered
under warranty.
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
Be careful not to spill fuel when filling the fuel
tank. Wipe up any spills immediately.
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
NOTICE
Technical Information 141
Competition Logbook
Any serious competition effort relies heavily on
the knowledge gained and compiled from
previous racing events. The best way to organize
the many bits of information is to record them in
a logbook.
Your logbook can include such information as
suspension adjustments, carburetor adjustments,
gearing, and tire selection. This detailed
information, along with your comments, can
prove valuable when you compete at the same
track or on similar terrain.
Your logbook can also tell you when
maintenance was performed and when it will be
necessary again. Your logbook also lets you
record any repairs and lets you keep track of the
running time on the engine and suspension
components.
If you choose to sell your CRF, the accurate
maintenance records in your logbook might be
the deciding deal-maker for a potential buyer.
Consider using different color pens or pencils to
record important information on specific
subjects. For example, record results in black,
jetting changes in red, suspension/chassis settings
in blue, and gearing selections in green. Color
codes will help you identify the information you
want with a glance.
Tuning & Adjustment Records
Keep track of the settings and adjustments that
worked best at a particular location. These items
include:
• basic track conditions, altitude, and
temperature
• carburetion changes
• suspension settings
• chassis adjustments tested and selected
• gearing
• tire selection
• air pressure
Competition Records
• your placings
• thoughts to improve performance next time:
both yours and your CRF
• strategy notes
Maintenance Records
• regular interval maintenance
• repairs
• running time on engine
• running time on suspension components
Timekeeping
This Manual lists maintenance intervals for
every-so-many races or every-so-many hours of
running.
Because all races are not the same, the most
effective way to schedule maintenance is by the
hours you have run your CRF.
An official “guesstimate” is close enough for our
timekeeping purposes. You may choose to record
your time the same way aircraft operators do (but
without the benefit of an electrical hourmeter).
All running time is broken down into hours and
tenths of an hour (each six minutes represents
one tenth of an hour).
Racing Records
Information worth recording for this section of
your logbook may include:
• Your placing in each moto and overall
finishing position.
• Thoughts on what you could do to improve
your performance next time.
• Notes on any patterns noted in choice of
starting gate positions or in riding portions of
the course as the day progressed that may
prove helpful in future events.
• Any places on the course where you chose the
wrong line and were passed too easily.
• Notes on strategy used by your competition or
by riders in another event that are worth
remembering.
Maintenance Records
Regular maintenance items you’ll want to record
in your logbook should include:
• Dates and results of cylinder, piston and ring
examinations
• Patterns for frequency of need for
decarbonization with a particular oil
• When you last performed shock linkage and
swingarm pivot bearing maintenance
• Engine, transmission, and suspension oil
changes
• Chain, sprocket, chain guide and slider
replacements
• Coolant changes and related component
replacements
• Spark plug, brake pad and control cable
replacements
In addition, you should record any irregularities
noted in component wear so you ’ll remember to
keep a close eye on these areas in the future.
Date Running Location/Event Comments (Jetting, Suspension Settings, Gearing, Chassis Adjustments, Maintenance
Time Performed, etc.)
(Make several photocopies of this page for future use)
142 Technical Information
Competition Logbook
Technical Information 143
Optional Parts List
These parts and tools may be ordered from your
authorized dealer.
Fuel flow amount
decrease
Remarks
Leak jet number
#75
#70
#65 (standard)
#60
#55
CARBURETOR
increase
RemarksMUFFLER
Using an optional muffler,
change the carburetor
settings.
See page 118 f
or more
details.
AMA Noise Emission
Regulation
Conformed Muffler
* Your CRF dose not conform to AMA noise emission
regulation for 2012 year.
An optional AMA noise emission regulation conformed
muffler may be available. Contact your dealer.
CARBURETOR
Main jet
(Standard: #140)
Slow jet
(Standard: #38)
Jet Needle
Standard needle: NMQT
Straight diameter: ø2.775 mm
Specific flow
characteristics
at 1/16 to 1/4
throttle
Rich
Lean
Jet needle
number
(1/2 clip
position leaner
than standard
at 1/8 to 3/4
throttle)
NMRS
ø2.765 mm
NMRU
ø2.785 mm
NMRT
ø2.775 mm
Jet needle
number
(standard
series)
NMRR
ø2.755 mm
NMQR
ø2.755 mm
NMQS
ø2.765 mm
NMQU
ø2.785 mm
NMRV
ø2.795 mm
NMQV
ø2.795 mm
MARK
Size
Remarks
#128 – #148 (
in increments of 2 or 3
)
#35 – #42
(
in increments of 2 or 3
)
NMQT
ø2.775 mm
(standard
needle)
Remarks
< >: Drive chain links
49T, Aluminum <120>
50T, steel <120> (standard)
50T, Aluminum <120>
51T, Aluminum <120>
< >: Drive chain links
55T, Aluminum <126>
56T, steel <126> (standard)
56T, Aluminum <126>
57T, Aluminum <126>
DID420DS3:
120 Links (CRF150R)
126 Links (CRF150RB)
Driven
sprocket
Drive
chain
CRF150R
CRF150RB
Standard
DID420DS3: 130 Links
Optional
FRAME
Remarks
For maintenance
Workstand
To adjust spring preload
Pin spanner A
To torque the shock spring lock
nut
Pin spanner B
TOOLS
Optional Parts List
144 Technical Information
2 scribe
mark
1 coil at
both ends
1 scribe
mark
Stiffer
Remarks
Fork
springs
1 coil at
both ends
1 scribe
mark
CRF150R
Softer
Standard
Stiffer
CRF150RB
Softer
Standard
FRAME
2 coils at
one end;
1 coil at
other end
17.9 lbf/in
(3.14 N/mm)
19.0 lbf/in
(3.33 N/mm)
20.2 lbf/in
(3.53 N/mm)
19.0 lbf/in
(3.33 N/mm)
20.2 lbf/in
(3.53 N/mm)
21.3 lbf/in
(3.73 N/mm)
CRF150RB
Remarks
Shock
springs
FRAME
279.8 lbf/in
(49.0 N/mm)
White mark
291.2 lbf/in
(51.0 N/mm)
No mark
302.6 lbf/in
(53.0 N/mm)
Black mark
Rider Weight
The maximum load capacity is 150 lb (68 kg).
Rider weight must not exceed this limit.
Softer
Standard
Stiffer
Remarks
Shock
springs
FRAME
The maximum load capacity is 150 lb (68 kg).
Rider weight must not exceed this limit.
Rider Weight
CRF150R
Softer
Standard
Stiffer
Red mark
White mark
No mark
268.4 lbf/in
(47.0 N/mm)
279.8 lbf/in
(49.0 N/mm)
291.2 lbf/in
(51.0 N/mm)
Spare Parts & Equipment
Technical Information 145
There are numerous spare parts you can take to
an event to help ensure you get in a full day of
riding. In addition to the usual nuts and bolts,
consider the following:
Spare Parts
spark plugs
air cleaner (clean & oiled, sealed in a plastic bag)
optional carburetor jets/needles
chain & masterlinks
chain guide slider
chain guide
chain rollers
inner tubes (front & rear)
fenders
footpegs
number plate & side covers
handlebar
grips
levers (brake, clutch & hot start)
clutch lever handlebar mount
clutch cable
hot start cable
throttle assembly
throttle cable
shift lever
brake pedal
spokes (front & rear, each side)
sprockets (larger & smaller than standard, for
gearing changes & collision damage
replacement)
assorted nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cotter pins
Additional Spares
front brake master cylinder
rear brake assembly
wheels & tires (front & rear, mounted)
clutch discs and plates
engine & transmission oil
seat
ignition components
radiator hoses
radiator shrouds (L & R)
brake hoses (front & rear)
General Tools
sockets (3/8 in drive)
screwdrivers: blade & Phillips No. 1, 2, 3
wrench, large adjustable
wrenches: open end & box
wrenches: hex (Allen)
wrench, spoke
torque wrench (metric scale, click-stop style)
pliers: standard, needle-nose, channel-lock set
hammer, plastic head
syringe with adjustable stop
tire pressure gauge
tire irons
tire pump or air tank
feeler gauge set
vernier caliper (metric)
pressure/vacuum testing equipment (USA only)
Honda Special Tools
Any special tools for your CRF purchased from
your dealer.
• Spoke Wrench 07701-0020300
• Tensioner Stopper 070MG-0010100
07AMG-001A100
(USA only)
Chemical Products
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil (Engine and
Transmission Oil)
SAE 80 or 90 gear oil
HP Fork Oil, SS-19
Pro Honda DOT 4 Brake Fluid
Pro Honda HP Chain Lube
Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
Pro Honda Hondabrite
Pro Honda Dielectric Grease
Pro Honda Handgrip Cement
Pro Honda Hondalock
Molybdenum Disulfide Grease (containing more
than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive)
Pro Honda White Lithium Grease
Multi-purpose Grease
Rust-inhibiting Oil
Cable lubricant
Pro Honda HP Coolant
Urea based multi-purpose grease with extreme
pressure (example: EXCELITE EP2
manufactured by KYODO YUSHI, Japan or
Shell Stamina EP2 or equivalent)
Other Products
pliers-safety wire
safety wire
mechanic’s wire
duct tape
plastic tie-wraps
hose clamps
drop light
electrical tape
Scotch-Brite Hand Pad #7447 (maroon)
Teflon tape
Wiring Diagram
146 Technical Information
THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR
SPARK
PLUG
Consumer Information 147
Consumer Information
This section contains information about
contacting Honda and how to get an of ficial
Honda Service Manual.
Authorized Manuals .........................................148
Contacting Honda.............................................149
Your Honda Dealer...........................................150
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only) ..............151
Publication Item No. Description
61KSE03 2012 CRF150R/RB Service Manual
61CM002 Common Service Manual
31KSE630 2012 CRF150R/RB Owner’s Manual
*
Prices are subject to change without notice and without incurring obligation.
The Service Manual used by your authorized dealer is available from your
Honda dealer or Helm, Inc. (USA only, Canada: See your Honda dealer to
order authorized manuals.)
Also available but not necessary to service your model is the Honda Common
Service Manual which explains theory of operation and basic service
information for various systems on Honda motorcycles, scooters, ATVs, MUVs,
and PWCs.
These Honda manuals are written for the professional technician, but most
mechanically-capable owners should find them helpful if they have the proper
tools and skills. Special Honda tools are necessary for some procedures.
148 Consumer Information
Authorized Manuals
Order On-Line: www.helminc.com
Order Toll Free: 1-888-CYCLE93 (1-888-292-5393)
(NOTE: For Credit Card Orders Only)
Monday - Friday 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM EST
Consumer Information 149
Your owner’s manual was written to cover most
of the questions you might ask about your
Honda. Any questions not answered in the
owner’s manual can be answered by your dealer .
If he doesn’t have the answer right away, he will
get it for you.
If you have a difference of opinion with your
dealer, please remember that each dealership is
independently owned and operated. That’s why
it’s important to work to resolve any dif ferences
at the dealership level.
If you wish to comment on your experiences with
your Honda or with your dealer, please send your
comments to the following address (USA only):
Motorcycle Division, American Honda Motor
Co., Inc., P.O. Box 2200, Torrance CA 90509-
2200, mailstop: 100-4C-7B,
telephone: (866) 784-1870.
Canada: Refer to the warranty booklet that was
supplied with your vehicle.
Please include the following information in your
letter:
• name, address, and telephone number
• product model, year, and VIN
• date of purchase
• dealer name and address
We will likely ask your dealer to respond, or
possibly acknowledge your comments directly.
Contacting Honda
Your Honda Dealer
150 Consumer Information
Once you purchase your new Honda, get familiar
with the organization of your Honda dealer so
you can utilize the full range of services
available.
The service department is there to perform
regular maintenance and unexpected repairs. It
has the latest available service information from
Honda.
The parts department offers Honda Genuine
Parts, Pro Honda products, Honda Genuine
Accessories (USA only), and Honda accessories
and products (Canada only). The same quality
that went into your Honda can be found in Honda
Genuine replacement parts. You’ll also find
comparable quality in the accessories and
products available from the parts department.
Your dealer can inform you about competition
events in your area. You’ll also find that your
dealer is a source of information (USA only) the
Honda Rider’s Club of America.
We’re sure you’ll be as pleased with the service
your dealer continues to provide after the sale as
you are with the quality and dependability of
your Honda.
Consumer Information 151
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only)
The Honda Rider’s Club of America (HRCA)
sponsors local riding chapters at Authorized
Honda Dealerships across the country. You can
log on to the HRCA Clubhouse website for more
information at
www.hrca.honda.com.
152 Index
accessories...........................................................3
adjustments,
altitude and temperature .............................117
carburetor ...................................................110
chassis ........................................................123
control freeplay ................................46, 49, 51
engine idle speed..........................................48
for competition .............................................93
gearing........................................................124
personal fit..................................................126
suspension, front ..........................................94
suspension, rear ..........................................102
suspension, track conditions ......................106
tire selection ...............................................125
after competition maintenance ..........................26
air cleaner ..........................................................43
air pressure,
front suspension ...........................................94
tires...............................................................80
appearance care .................................................90
authorized manuals..........................................148
basic operation...................................................11
before riding ........................................................7
between motos & practice maintenance ...........26
brakes,
fluid level .....................................................76
lever, front adjustment .................................75
pad wear .......................................................78
pedal height ..................................................75
break-in guidelines ............................................16
capacity, fuel .....................................................34
carburetor,
adjustment ..................................................110
circuit functions..........................................112
components.................................................110
disassembly/assembly ................................114
idle speed......................................................48
minor adjustments ......................................120
optional muffler settings.............................118
care, appearance ................................................90
chain drive .........................................................82
chassis adjustments .........................................123
choke knob ........................................................13
cleaner, air .........................................................43
cleaning, appearance care .................................90
clutch system, adjustment .................................49
competition logbook........................................141
consumer information .....................................147
contacting Honda ............................................149
controls, operating...............................................5
coolant ...............................................................41
customer service ..............................................149
cylinder system..................................................62
damping adjustments,
front............................................................100
rear..............................................................103
dealer, your Honda ..........................................150
diagram, wiring ...............................................146
drive chain .........................................................82
engine,
flooded .........................................................13
idle speed......................................................48
number .......................................................134
oil .................................................................36
pinging .........................................................34
starting..........................................................13
stop button....................................................14
stopping........................................................14
won’t start ....................................................13
environment, protecting ..................................130
filter,
air .................................................................43
oil .................................................................37
flooded engine, starting .....................................13
fork,
front suspension adjustment.........................94
front suspension inspection..........................70
oil recommendation......................................72
front brake lever adjustment .............................75
front suspension maintenance ...........................70
fuel,
line................................................................34
filter..............................................................35
recommendation...........................................34
refueling .......................................................34
system...........................................................34
oxygenated .................................................140
tank capacity ................................................34
valve .............................................................13
F
E
D
C
B
A
Index
Index 153
Index
gap, spark plug ..................................................52
gasohol ............................................................140
gasoline..............................................................34
gearing.............................................................124
guidelines, suspension adjustment ..................107
handlebar inspection..........................................88
Honda,
contacting ...................................................149
Rider’s Club ...............................................151
service manual............................................148
your dealer..................................................150
identification, vehicle ......................................134
idle speed, engine ..............................................48
inspection, pre-ride..............................................9
labels, safety ........................................................4
logbook, competition.......................................141
maintenance,
additional procedures ...................................88
after competition ..........................................26
before & after competition ...........................26
between motos & practice............................26
component locations ....................................28
general competition......................................22
importance....................................................18
safety ............................................................19
schedule........................................................20
manual, service................................................148
modifications.......................................................3
oil,
engine ...........................................................36
fork ...............................................................72
transmission .................................................39
operating,
controls...........................................................5
instructions ...................................................11
operation component locations ...........................6
optional,
muffler settings...........................................118
parts list ......................................................143
sprockets.....................................................124
oxygenated fuels..............................................140
pads, brake.........................................................78
parts, optional ..................................................143
personal fit adjustments ..................................126
pinging, engine ..................................................34
plug, spark .........................................................52
pre-load, rear suspension.................................102
pre-ride inspection...............................................9
protective apparel ................................................2
rear suspension maintenance.............................71
Rider’s Club Honda.........................................151
riding,
basic operation .............................................11
before..............................................................7
important safety information..........................2
safety precautions.........................................19
safety,
a few words about ................Safety Messages
important information ....................................2
important precautions.....................................2
labels ..............................................................4
maintenance..................................................19
riding precautions...........................................2
schedule, maintenance.......................................20
seat ....................................................................29
serial numbers .................................................134
service,
customer .....................................................148
manuals ......................................................151
spare parts........................................................145
spark knock .......................................................34
spark plug,
maintenance..................................................52
reading........................................................122
specifications............................................135,136
spring pre-load, rear suspension .....................102
starting,
engine ...........................................................13
troubleshooting...........................................131
steering stem inspection ....................................88
stopping engine .................................................14
storage .............................................................129
subframe ............................................................32
S
R
P
O
M
L
I
H
G
(cont’d)
154 Index
suspension,
front.........................................................70,94
rear.........................................................71,102
suspension adjustment,
front..............................................................94
rear..............................................................102
for track conditions ....................................106
guidelines ...................................................107
transmission oil .................................................39
tuning tips ........................................................110
throttle,
freeplay.........................................................46
inspection .....................................................47
tires,
air pressure ...................................................80
flat ................................................................80
selection........................................................81
tools ...............................................................145
torque specifications,
carburetor ...................................................116
engine .........................................................137
frame ...................................................138-139
transporting......................................................128
troubleshooting................................................131
tubes, replacing .................................................80
valve, fuel ..........................................................13
valve clearance ..................................................54
vehicle identification no. (VIN) ......................134
washing your motorcycle ..................................90
wheels................................................................79
wiring diagram ................................................146
W
V
T
Index
Record important information here:
VIN
Engine No.
Owner’s:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Dealer’s:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Service Mgr.
Check the items listed on the Pre-ride inspection checklist each time before you ride
(page 9):
unleaded gasoline, pump octane number of 91 or higher
tank: 1.14 US gal (4.3R)
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent.
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent.
Maintenance
Pre-ride Inspection
Fuel/Capacity
Engine oil
Transmission oil
CRF150R
CRF150RB
Type
Front
AC
CM
70/100–17 40M
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
K490G
M23
Tires
Rear
AC
CM
90/100–14 49M
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
K695
M22
Front
AC
CM
70/100–19 42M
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
K490
M61
Rear
AC
CM
90/100–16 52M
DUNLOP
BRIDGESTONE
K695
M58
bias-ply, tube
Standard: CR8EH-9 (NGK), U24FER9 (DENSO)
Optional: CR9EH-9 (NGK), U27FER9 (DENSO)
DID420DS3
Front: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0kgf/cm
2
)
Rear: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0kgf/cm
2
)
Tire Pressure (cold)
ethylene glycol antifreeze (silicate-free) for aluminum engines in 50/50 solution with
Pro Honda HP Coolant or equivalent distilled water.
Coolant
Spark Plug
Drive Chain
The maintenance schedule (page 21) lists service frequencies for:
each race or about 2.5 hours,
every 3 races or about 7.5 hours, and
every 6 races or about 15.0 hours
every 9 races or about 22.5 hours
Quick Reference
Quick Reference
The following is a brief, but important collection
of information you need to know about your
Honda. You’ll also find space to record
important notes.
How To Avoid Costly Repairs
The engine of your Honda can be the most
expensive component to repair. Proper
maintenance, especially the use of the
recommended fluids and filters, prevents
premature wear and damage.
Frequent causes of costly engine repairs are:
• Transmission oil & engine oil: insuf ficient
quantity, improper oil.
• Air cleaner: dirty, leaking because of
improper installation (poor seal).
