Contents
Contents
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY............................. 1
Important Safety Information ........................... 2
Important Safety Precautions ........................ 2
Important Message to Parents ....................... 2
Accessories & Modifications ........................... 3
Safety Labels .................................................... 4
OPERATING CONTROLS ........................... 5
Operation Component Locations ...................... 6
BEFORE RIDING........................................... 7
Are You Ready to Ride? .................................. 8
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride? ................. 9
Pre-ride Inspection ........................................ 9
BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS .... 11
Safe Riding Precautions .............................. 12
Starting & Stopping the Engine ...................... 13
Preparation .................................................. 13
Starting Procedure ....................................... 13
Flooded Engine ........................................... 13
How to Stop the Engine .............................. 14
Shifting Gears ................................................. 15
Break-in Guidelines ........................................ 16
SERVICING YOUR HONDA...................... 17
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance ..................... 18
Maintenance Safety ........................................ 19
Important Safety Precautions ...................... 19
Maintenance Schedule .................................... 20
General Competition Maintenance ................. 22
Before & After Competition Maintenance ..... 26
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance .... 26
After Competition Maintenance.................. 26
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations ............... 28
Seat ................................................................. 29
Fuel Tank ........................................................ 30
Subframe ........................................................ 32
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System .....................................................34
Engine Oil .......................................................36
Transmission Oil .............................................39
Coolant ............................................................41
Air Cleaner ......................................................43
Crankcase Breather .........................................45
Engine
Throttle ............................................................46
Engine Idle Speed ...........................................48
Clutch System .................................................49
Hot Start Lever ................................................51
Spark Plug .......................................................52
Valve Clearance ..............................................53
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin ........................62
Chassis
Suspension ......................................................70
Brakes .............................................................75
Wheels .............................................................79
Tires & Tubes .................................................80
Drive Chain .....................................................82
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler ......................................85
Additional Maintenance Procedures ...............88
Appearance Care .............................................90
ADJUSTMENTS FOR COMPETITION ....93
Front Suspension Adjustments .......................94
Rear Suspension Adjustments........................102
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions .....................................................106
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines ..............107
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips .......110
Chassis Adjustments ......................................123
Gearing ..........................................................124
Tire Selection for Track Conditions ..............125
Personal Fit Adjustments ..............................126
TIPS .............................................................. 127
Transporting Your Motorcycle ..................... 128
Storing Your Honda ..................................... 129
You & the Environment ............................... 130
Troubleshooting ............................................ 131
TECHNICAL INFORMATION ................ 133
Vehicle Identification ................................... 134
Specifications ............................................... 135
Torque Specifications ................................... 137
Oxygenated Fuels ......................................... 140
Competition Logbook ................................... 141
Optional Parts List ........................................ 143
Spare Parts & Equipment ............................. 145
Wiring Diagram ............................................ 146
CONSUMER INFORMATION ................. 147
Authorized Manuals ..................................... 148
Contacting Honda ......................................... 149
Your Honda Dealer ....................................... 150
The Honda Rider's Club (USA only) ............ 151
INDEX .......................................................... 152
QUICK REFERENCE
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31KSE690
CRF150R/RB
MOM 16215 (1702)
2018
Honda CRF150R/RB
OWNER’S MANUAL & COMPETITION HANDBOOK
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Introduction
Introduction
Introduction
Congratulations on choosing your Honda CRF
motocross motorcycle.
When you own a Honda, you’re part of a
worldwide family of satisfied customers — people
who appreciate Honda’s reputation for building
quality into every product.
Your CRF is a high performance racing
motorcycle that utilizes the latest motocross
technology and is intended for competition use in
sanctioned, closed-course events by experienced
riders only.
Be aware that motocross is a physically demanding
sport that requires more than just a fine
motorcycle. To do well, you must be in excellent
physical condition and be a skillful rider. For the
best results, work diligently on your physical
conditioning and practice frequently.
Before riding, take time to get acquainted with
your CRF and how it works. To protect your
investment, we urge you to take responsibility for
keeping your CRF well maintained. Scheduled
service is a must, of course. But it’s just as
important to observe the break-in guidelines, and
perform all the pre-ride and other periodic checks
detailed in this manual.
You should also read the owner’s manual before
you ride. It’s full of facts, instructions, safety
information, and helpful tips. To make it easy to
use, the manual contains a table of contents, a
detailed list of topics at the beginning of each
section, and an index at the back of the book.
As you read this manual, you will find information
that is preceded by a symbol. This
information is intended to help you avoid damage
to your Honda, other property, or the environment.
Unless you are mechanically qualified and have
the proper tools, you should see your dealer for the
service and adjustment procedures discussed in
this manual.
The official Honda Service Manual for your CRF
is available (page 148). It is the same manual your
dealer uses. If you plan to do any service on your
CRF beyond the standard maintenance procedures
in this manual, you will find the Service Manual a
valuable reference.
If you have any questions, or if you ever need a
special service or repairs, remember that your
Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is
dedicated to your complete satisfaction.
Please report any change of address or ownership
to your dealer so we will be able to contact you
concerning important product information
You may also want to visit our website at
USA: www.powersports.honda.com
Canada: www.honda.ca
Happy riding!
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Safety Messages
A Few Words About Safety
A Few Words About Safety
Your safety, and the safety of others, is very important. And operating this motorcycle safely is an important responsibility.
To help you make informed decisions about safety, this manual contains a section devoted to Motorcycle Safety, as well as a number of Safety Messages throughout
the manual.
Safety Messages are preceded by a safety alert symbol and one of three signal words: DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.
These signal words mean:
Of course, it is not practical or possible to warn you about all hazards associated with operating or maintaining a motorcycle. You must use your own good
judgment.
You WILL be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
DANGER
WARNING
CAUTION
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Motorcycle Safety
Motorcycle Safety 1
Motorcycle Safety
This section presents some of the most important
information and recommendations to help you ride
your CRF safely. Please take a few moments to
read these pages. This section also includes
information about the location of safety labels on
your CRF.
Important Safety Information ............................2
Important Safety Precautions.........................2
Important Message to Parents........................2
Accessories & Modifications.............................3
Safety Labels......................................................4
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Important Safety Information
2 Motorcycle Safety
Important Safety Information
Your CRF can provide many years of pleasure, if
you take responsibility for your own safety and
understand the challenges you can meet in
competitive racing.
As an experienced rider, you know there is much
you can do to protect yourself when you ride. The
following are a few precautions we consider to be
most important.
Never Carry a Passenger.
Your CRF is designed for one operator only.
Carrying a passenger can cause an crash in which
you and others can be hurt.
Wear Protective Gear.
Whether you’re practicing to improve your skills,
or riding in competition, always wear an approved
helmet, eye protection, and proper protective gear.
Take Time to Get to Know Your CRF.
Because every motorcycle is unique, take time to
become thoroughly familiar with how this one
operates and responds to your commands before
placing your machine, and yourself, in
competition.
Learn and Respect Your Limits.
Never ride beyond your personal abilities or faster
than conditions warrant. Remember that alcohol,
drugs, illness and fatigue can reduce your ability to
perform well and ride safely.
Don’t Drink and Ride.
Alcohol and riding don’t mix. Even one drink can
reduce your ability to respond to changing
conditions, and your reaction time gets worse with
every additional drink. So don’t drink and ride, and
don’t let your friends drink and ride either.
Keep your Honda in Safe Condition.
Maintaining your CRF properly is critical to your
safety. A loose bolt, for example, can cause a
breakdown in which you can be seriously injured.
Your child's safely is very important to Honda.
That’s why we urge you to read this message
before you let any young person ride this
motorcycle. Competitive riding can be fun. But
bad judgment can result in injury, and we don’t
want that to happen. As a parent, you can help
prevent accidents by making good decisions about
when and how your youngster rides this
motorcycle.
• Remember, this CRF is designed only for
competition use by experienced junior riders. It
is an operator-only model, and the maximum
load capacity is 150 lb (68 kg). Rider weight
must not exceed this limit.
• The junior rider must be tall enough to hold the
motorcycle up while straddling it with both feet
on the ground. He or she must also be strong
enough to pick up the motorcycle if it is on its
side.
• The parent and junior rider must be fully familiar
with the motorcycle, the motorcycle controls and
control functions. Both must also fully
understand everything in this manual before
riding begins.
• For your child's safely, be sure to make pre-
practice and pre-race inspections, and impress on
the junior rider the importance of checking all
the items thoroughly before riding.
Important Safety Precautions Important Message to Parents
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Accessories & Modifications
Motorcycle Safety 3
Accessories & Modifications
Installing non-Honda accessories, removing
original equipment, or modifying your CRF in any
way that would change its design or operation,
could seriously impair your CRF’s handling,
stability, and braking, making it unsafe to ride.
Accessories & Modifications
WARNING
Improper accessories or modifications
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding modifications and
accessories.
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Safety Labels
4 Motorcycle Safety
Read this label carefully and don’t remove it.
If the label comes off or becomes hard to read, contact your dealer for replacement.
(For Canada)
Safety Labels
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Operation Component Locations
6 Operating Controls
Operation Component Locations
clutch lever
hot start lever
front brake lever
engine stop button
throttle grip
choke knob
fuel valve shift lever
kickstarter
rear brake pedal
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Before Riding
Before Riding 7
Before Riding
Before each ride, you need to make sure you and
your Honda are both ready to ride. To help get you
prepared, this section discusses how to evaluate
your riding readiness, and what items you should
check on your CRF.
For information about suspension, carburetor, and
other adjustments, see page 93.
Are You Ready to Ride? ....................................8
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride? ..................9
Pre-ride Inspection.........................................9
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Are You Ready to Ride?
8 Before Riding
Are You Ready to Ride?
Before riding your CRF for the first time, we
strongly recommend that you read this owner’s
manual, make sure you understand the safety
messages, and know how to operate the controls.
Before each ride, it’s also important to make sure
you and your CRF are both ready to ride.
For information about suspension, carburetor, and
other adjustments, see page 93.
Whether you’re preparing for competition or for
practice, always make sure you are.
• In good physical and mental condition
• Free of alcohol and drugs
• Wearing an approved helmet, eye protection,
and other appropriate riding gear
Although complete protection is not possible,
wearing the proper gear can reduce the chance or
severity of injury when you ride.
WARNING
Not wearing a helmet increases the
chance of serious injury or death in a
crash.
Be sure you always wear a helmet, eye
protection and other protective apparel
when you ride.
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Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?
Before Riding 9
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?
Competitive riding can be tough on a motorcycle,
so it’s important to inspect your CRF and correct
any problems you find before each ride. Check the
following items (page numbers are at the right):
Check the following before each ride:
• Engine oil level ........................................... 37
• Transmission oil level................................. 40
• Fuel line for condition ................................ 34
• Coolant for proper level.............................. 41
• Cooling system and hoses for condition..... 42
• Spark plug for proper heat range, carbon
fouling and spark plug wire terminal for
looseness ..................................................... 52
• Air cleaner for condition and
contamination ............................................. 43
• Clutch lever adjustment and freeplay ......... 49
• Hot start lever freeplay ............................... 51
• Breather drain for cleaning ......................... 45
• Steering head bearing and related parts
for condition................................................ 88
• Carburetor throttle operation ...................... 46
• Tires for damage or improper inflation
pressure ....................................................... 80
• Spokes for looseness................................... 79
• Rim locks for looseness .............................. 79
• Front and rear suspension for proper
operation ................................................ 70,71
• Front and rear brakes, check operation....... 75
• Drive chain for correct slack and adequate
lubrication ................................................... 82
• Drive chain sliders and drive chain rollers
for damage or wear ................................ 82,83
• Exhaust pipe/Muffler inspection................. 85
• Every possible part for looseness (such as
cylinder head nuts, engine mounting bolts/
nuts, axle nuts, handlebar holder bolts, fork
bridge pinch bolts, drive chain adjuster, drive
chain guide, wire harness connectors,
kickstarter mounting bolt)............ 89,137–139
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before riding
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always perform a pre-ride inspection
before every ride and correct any
problems.
Pre-ride Inspection
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10 Before Riding
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BLANK PAGE
Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions 11
Basic Operating Instructions
This section gives basic information on how to
start and stop your engine as well as break-in
guidelines.
Safe Riding Precautions ..............................12
Starting & Stopping the Engine ......................13
Preparation ..................................................13
Starting Procedure .......................................13
Flooded Engine ...........................................13
How to Stop the Engine ..............................14
Shifting Gears ..................................................15
Break-in Guidelines .........................................16
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Basic Operating Instructions
12 Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions
Before riding your CRF for the first time, please
review the Important Safety Precautions
begininng on page2 and the previous section,
titled Before Riding.
For your safety, avoid starting or operating the
engine in an enclosed area such as a garage.
Your CRF’s exhaust contains poisonous carbon
monoxide gas which can collect rapidly in an
enclosed area and cause illness or death.
Safe Riding Precautions
WARNING
Running the engine of your vehicle while
in an enclosed or even partially enclosed
area can cause a rapid build-up of toxic
carbon monoxide gas.
Breathing this colorless, odorless gas can
quickly cause unconsciousness and lead
to death.
Only run your vehicle’s engine when it is
located in a well ventilated area outdoors.
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Starting & Stopping the Engine
Basic Operating Instructions 13
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described below.
Your CRF can be kickstarted with the transmission
in gear by pulling in the clutch lever before
operating the kickstarter.
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral.
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described as follows.
(1) fuel valve (2) choke knob
Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant
levels before starting the engine (pages 37, 40, 41).
Snapping the throttle or fast idling for more than 5
minutes at normal air temperature may cause
exhaust pipe discoloration.
Cold Engine Starting
1. Turn the fuel valve (1) ON.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. If the temperature is 95°F (35°C) or below,
pull the choke knob (2) fully out.
4. If the temperature is below 32°F (0°C), open
the throttle two or three times. (The engine
requires a richer mixture for starting in cold
weather. When the throttle is so opened, the
accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the
cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold
weather.)
5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter
starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke,
and kick through to the bottom of the stroke
with a rapid, continuous motion.
(Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is
equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive
fuel will be charged into the engine, and the
spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is
opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel
in the engine makes kickstarting difficult.)
6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the
choke knob all the way to fully OFF.
If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.
Warm Engine Starting
1. Turn the fuel valve ON.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. Pull the hot start lever (1) and kick-start the
engine. (Do not open the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
(1) hot start lever
Starting the engine after a stall during riding or
after a fall
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine
(Do not open the throttle).
3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
If the engine fails to start after repeated attempts, it
may be flooded with excess fuel. To clear a
flooded engine:
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately ten times
very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from
the engine.
3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the
engine. (Do not open the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.
Preparation
Starting Procedure
(1)
(2)
Flooded Engine
(1)
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14 Basic Operating Instructions
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Normal Engine Stop
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
3. Lightly open the throttle (1) two or three times,
and then close it.
4. Push and hold the engine stop button (2) until
the engine stops completely.
Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the
carburetor to overflow, result in hard starting.
Emergency Engine Stop
To stop the engine in an emergency, push and hold
the engine stop button.
How to Stop the Engine
(1) throttle (2) engine stop button
(1)
(2)
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Shifting Gears
Basic Operating Instructions 15
Break-in Guidelines
1. After the engine has been warmed up, the
motorcycle is ready for riding.
2. While the engine is idling, pull in the clutch
lever and depress the shift lever to shift into 1st
(low) gear.
3. Slowly release the clutch lever and at the same
time gradually increase engine speed by
opening the throttle. Coordination of the
throttle and clutch lever will assure a smooth
positive start.
NOTICE
When moving off from a standing start, be careful
not to use too much throttle. The motorcycle may
“wheelie” over backwards.
4. When the motorcycle attains a moderate speed,
close the throttle, pull in the clutch lever and
shift to 2nd gear by raising the shift lever.
5. This sequence is repeated to progressively shift
to 3rd, 4th, 5th (top) gear. Raise the shift lever
to shift to a higher gear and depress it to
downshift. Each stroke of the shift lever
engages the next gear in sequence. The shift
lever automatically returns to the horizontal
position when released.
NOTICE
Improper shifting may damage the engine,
transmission, and drive train.
NOTICE
Downshifting can help slow your motorcycle,
especially on downhills. However, downshifting
when engine rpm is too high can cause engine
damage.
NOTICE
To prevent transmission damage, do not coast or
tow the motorcycle for long distances with the
engine off.
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Break-in Guidelines
16 Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions
Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and
performance by paying extra attention to
how you ride during the first operating day or
15 miles (25 km).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts
and rapid acceleration.
This same procedure should be followed each time
when:
• piston is replaced
• piston rings are replaced
• cylinder is replaced
• crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced
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Servicing Your Honda
Servicing Your Honda 17
Servicing Your Honda
Keeping your CRF well maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
protect your investment, get maximum
performance, avoid breakdowns, and have more
fun.
To help keep your CRF in good shape, this section
includes a Maintenance Schedule for required
servicing and step-by-step instructions for specific
maintenance tasks. You’ll also find important
safety precautions, information on oils, and tips for
keeping your Honda looking good.
An ICM (Ignition Control Module) system is used
on this motorcycle; consequently, routine ignition
timing adjustment is unnecessary. If you want to
check the ignition timing, refer to the Honda
Service Manual (page 148).
An optional tool kit may be available. Check with
your dealer’s parts department.
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance ......................18
Maintenance Safety..........................................19
Important Safety Precautions.......................19
Maintenance Schedule .....................................20
General Competition Maintenance ..................22
Before & After Competition Maintenance ......26
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance.....26
After Competition Maintenance ..................26
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations ................28
Seat...................................................................29
Fuel Tank .........................................................30
Subframe ..........................................................32
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System......................................................34
Engine Oil ........................................................36
Transmission Oil..............................................39
Coolant.............................................................41
Air Cleaner.......................................................43
Crankcase Breather ..........................................45
Engine
Throttle.............................................................46
Engine Idle Speed ............................................48
Clutch System ..................................................49
Hot Start Lever.................................................51
Spark Plug........................................................52
Valve Clearance ...............................................53
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin.........................62
Chassis
Suspension....................................................... 70
Front Suspension Inspection ....................... 70
Rear Suspension Inspection......................... 71
Recommended Fork Oil .............................. 72
Fork Oil Change .......................................... 72
Brakes .............................................................. 75
Wheels ............................................................. 79
Tires & Tubes .................................................. 80
Drive Chain ..................................................... 82
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler....................................... 85
Additional Maintenance Procedures................ 88
Appearance Care ............................................. 90
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The Importance of Maintenance
18 Servicing Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance
Keeping your CRF well-maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to get
maximum performance during each moto. Careful
pre-ride inspections and good maintenance are
especially important because your CRF is designed
to be ridden in off-road competition.
Remember, proper maintenance is your
responsibility. Be sure to inspect your CRF before
each ride and follow the Maintenance Schedule in
this section.
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before you ride
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the inspection and
maintenance recommendations and
schedules in this owner’s manual.
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Maintenance Safety
Servicing Your Honda 19
Maintenance Safety
This section includes instructions on how to
perform some important maintenance tasks. Some
of the most important safety precautions follow.
However, we cannot warn you of every
conceivable hazard that can arise in performing
maintenance. Only you can decide whether or not
you should perform a given task.
• Make sure the engine is off before you begin
any maintenance or repairs.
This will help eliminate several potential
hazards:
Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine
exhaust. Be sure there is adequate ventilation
whenever you operate the engine.
Burns from hot motorcycle parts. Let the
engine and exhaust system cool before
touching.
Injury from moving parts. Do not run the
engine unless instructed to do so.
• Read the instructions before you begin, and
make sure you have the tools and skills
required.
• To help prevent the motorcycle from falling
over, park it on a firm, level surface, using an
optional workstand or a maintenance stand to
provide support.
• To reduce the possibility of a fire or explosion,
be careful when working around gasoline. Use
only a non-flammable (high flash point)
solvent such as kerosene —not gasoline— to
clean parts. Keep cigarettes, sparks, and flames
away from all fuel-related parts.
WARNING
Failure to properly follow maintenance
instructions and precautions can cause
you to be seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the procedures and
precautions in this owner’s manual.
Important Safety Precautions
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Maintenance Schedule
20 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Schedule
To maintain the safety and reliability of your CRF,
regular inspection and service is required as shown
in the Maintenance Schedule that follows.
The Maintenance Schedule lists items that can be
performed with basic mechanical skills and hand
tools. Procedures for these items are provided in
this manual.
The Maintenance Schedule also includes items that
involve more extensive procedures and may
require special training, tools, and equipment.
Therefore, we recommend that you have your
dealer perform these tasks unless you have
advanced mechanical skills and the required tools.
Procedures for items in this schedule are provided
in a service manual available for purchase from
your dealer (page 148).
Service intervals in the maintenance schedule are
expressed in terms of races and riding hours. To
avoid overlooking required service, we urge you to
develop a convenient way to record the number of
races and/or hours you ride.
If you do not feel capable of performing a given
task or need assistance, remember that your Honda
dealer knows your CRF best and is fully equipped
to maintain and repair it. If you decide to do your
own maintenance, use only Honda Genuine Parts
or their equivalents for repair or replacement to
ensure the best quality and reliability.
Perform the pre-ride inspection (page 9) at each
scheduled maintenance period.
Summary of Maintenance Schedule Notes and
Procedures:
Notes:
1. Clean after every moto for dusty riding
conditions.
2. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires
mechanical skill.
3. Replace after the first break-in ride.
4. Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5. Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs
and plates are replaced.
Maintenance Procedures:
I : inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate, or replace,
if necessary
C: clean
A: adjust
L : lubricate
R: replace
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Maintenance Schedule
Servicing Your Honda 21
Perform the Pre-ride Inspection at each scheduled maintenance period.
I: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. R: Replace. A: Adjust. L: Lubricate.
This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machines subjected to severe use require more frequent servicing.
NOTE: 1.Clean after every moto for dusty riding conditions.
2.Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.
3.Replace after the first break-in ride.
4.Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5.Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs and plates are replaced.
FREQUENCY
ITEMS
NOTE
Each race
or about
2.5 hours
Every 3 races
or about
7.5 hours
Every 6 races
or about
15.0 hours
Every 9 races
or about
22.5 hours
Ref. Page
THROTTLE OPERATION I 46
HOT STARTER I 51
AIR FILTER (NOTE 1) C 43
CRANKCASE BREATHER I 45
SPARK PLUG I 52
VALVE CLEARANCE/DECOMPRESSOR SYSTEM (NOTE 4) I 53
ENGINE OIL (NOTE 3) R 36
ENGINE OIL FILTER (NOTE 3) R 37
ENGINE IDLE SPEED I 48
PISTON AND PISTON RINGS R62
PISTON PIN R64
TRANSMISSION OIL (NOTE 5) I R 39
RADIATOR COOLANT (NOTE 2) I 41
COOLING SYSTEM I 42
DRIVE CHAIN I, L R 82
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER I 82
DRIVE CHAIN ROLLER I 83
DRIVE SPROCKET I 84
DRIVEN SPROCKET I 84
BRAKE FLUID (NOTE 2) I 76
BRAKE PADS WEAR I 78
BRAKE SYSTEM I 75
CLUTCH SYSTEM (NOTE 5) I 49
CONTROL CABLES I, L 88
EXHAUST PIPE/MUFFLER I 85
SUSPENSION I 70, 71
SWINGARM/SHOCK LINKAGE L 25, 71
FORK OIL (NOTE 3) R 72
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS I 89, 137 – 139
WHEELS/TIRES I 79, 80 – 81
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
I8
8
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General Competition Maintenance
22 Servicing Your Honda
General Competition Maintenance
Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using
an optional workstand, or an equivalent support.
When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with
the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten
them to the specified torque using a crisscross
pattern.
Use Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalent when
servicing your CRF.
Clean parts in non-flammable (high flash point)
cleaning solvent (such as kerosene) when
disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surface,
O-rings, and seals before reassembling. Grease
parts by coating or filling where specified.
After any engine disassembly, always install new
gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, piston pin clips, snap
rings, etc. when reassembling. After reassembly,
check all parts for proper installation and
operation.
All Pre-ride Inspection Items
Refer to Pre-ride Inspection page9.
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General Competition Maintenance
Servicing Your Honda 23
Spark Plug
Some non-resistor plugs may cause ignition problems. Refer
to the recommendations elsewhere in this manual for specific
types so you will be sure to use the proper reach and heat
range. Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance
Schedule. (page 21).
Air Cleaner
Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly because the volume
of air is able to pass through it has a great effect on
performance. Both engine performance and long term
durability may be affected by an air cleaner that has
deteriorated and allows dirt to pass. Inspect the air cleaner
closely each time it’s serviced for evidence of small tears or
seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and ready to
install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty conditions
may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing it with a
pre-serviced air cleaner between motos. Be careful not to
over oil the air cleaner. While it is important to oil the air
cleaner thoroughly, over oiling will cause an overall rich
running condition, probably more noticeable off idle and in
low rpm performance. Follow the servicing instructions in
the Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or
an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner flange where
it contacts the air cleaner housing. Pro Honda White Lithium
Grease, or an equivalent, is handy for this because any dirt
that penetrates this sealing area will show up clearly
(page 43).
Use the Honda Genuine air cleaner or an equivalent air
cleaner specified for your model.
Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda air
cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may cause
premature engine wear or performance problems.
Engine Oil and Filter
Drain and replace engine oil often to ensure the greatest
service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft.
Also replace the engine oil filter often to ensure the
greatest service life. Frequent changes will also assure
consistent performance of power and response. (page 37).
Transmission Oil
Drain and replace transmission oil often to ensure the greatest
service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent changes
will also assure consistent performance of both shifting and
clutch action (page 40).
Air Cleaner Housing Sealing
Remove and reseal the air cleaner housing boot where it
connects to the air cleaner housing with Pro Honda Handgrip
Cement or an equivalent if there is any doubt to its sealing
integrity. Inspect the air cleaner and air intake tract regularly
for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.
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Before & After Competition Maintenance
26 Servicing Your Honda
Before & After Competition Maintenance
After practice or between motos you have a chance
to make additional checks and adjustments.
• Clean accumulated dirt from under the fenders
and off the wheels, suspension components,
handgrips, controls, and footpegs. A stiff,
nylon parts cleaning brush works well.
• Check tire air pressure.
• Check spoke tension, and make sure the rim
locks are secure.
• Check to make sure the sprocket bolts and nuts
are secure.
• Clean the sides of the drive chain with a stiff,
nylon parts-cleaning brush. Lubricate and
adjust the chain as necessary.
Do not perform maintenance while engine is
running. Injury to your fingers or hands may
result.
• After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster
index marks (1) are in the same position on
each side. This will ensure that the rear wheel
is in proper alignment and allow maximum
performance from the rear disc brake.
Maintaining proper wheel alignment will also
extend brake pad wear.
• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and
use the fork air pressure release screws (2) to
release the built-up pressure (in excess of
normal atmospheric pressure: 0 psi (0 kPa, 0
kgf/cm
2
)) in the fork tubes. This pressure is
caused by normal fork action while riding. (If
you are riding at altitude, remember that fork
pressure of 0 at sea level will increase as
elevation increases.)
It is important to the long term performance of
your CRF to practice a consistent maintenance
program. Right after the event is a good time to
begin your next maintenance cycle.
After Race Lubrication
Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the
drive sprocket and any steel portions of the chassis
or engine where the paint has worn away. This will
prevent rusting of the exposed metal.
Apply rust-inhibiting oil more heavily if the event
was particularly wet or muddy. Take care to avoid
spraying any oil near the brake pads or brake disc.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers between
the chain and sprocket.
Remove the drive chain, clean and lubricate it
(pages 83, 84). Be sure the chain is wiped clean
and is dry before lubricating the chain.
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance
(1) chain adjuster index marks
(2) fork air pressure release screw
(1)
(2)
After Competition Maintenance
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Servicing Your Honda 27
Before & After Competition Maintenance
Routine Cleaning
If your CRF is only slightly dirty, it is best to clean
it by hand with the aid of a stiff bristled nylon
brush and some clean rags.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers between
the chain and sprocket.
A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes
are available from variety, drug, food, and
hardware stores. Some of these brushes are
extremely useful in removing dirt from the many
tight contours of the metal pieces of your CRF.
Avoid using stiff, abrasive brushes on the plastic or
rubber parts.
If your CRF was exposed to sea air or salt water,
rinse it as soon as possible after the event, dry it,
and apply a spray lubricant to all metal parts.
If you decide to wash your CRF or use cleaners,
refer to Appearance Care (page90).
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Maintenance Component Locations
28 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Component Locations
clutch lever
hot start lever front brake fluid reservoir
front brake lever
fuel fill cap
radiator cap
throttle grip
front brake caliper
choke knob
crankcase breather tube
drive chain
transmission oil
drain bolt
engine oil drain bolt
throttle stop screw
(engine idle speed)
engine oil filter
engine oil fill
cap/dipstick
air cleaner
rear brake
caliper
rear brake
fluid reservoir
rear suspension
rebound damping adjuster
transmission oil
fill cap
rear
brake pedal
transmission oil
check bolt
front suspension compression
damping adjuster
rear suspension compression
damping adjuster
front suspension rebound
damping adjuster
spark plug
rear suspension
spring pre-load adjuster
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Seat
Servicing Your Honda 29
Seat
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Removal
1. Remove the seat mounting bolts (1), side cover
bolts (2) and side covers (3).
2. Remove the seat (4) by sliding it backward.
Installation
1. Install the seat while aligning the front prong
(1) with the seat bracket (2) and rear prong (3)
with the tab (4) of the frame.
2. Install the side covers (5) and tighten the side
cover bolts (6).
3. Install and tighten the seat mounting bolts (7)
to the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(1) seat mounting bolt (3) side cover
(2) side cover bolt
(4) seat
(3)
(2)
(1)
(4)
(1) front prong (3) rear prong
(2) seat bracket (4) tab
(5) side cover (7) seat mounting bolt
(6) side cover bolt
(1)
(3)
(4)
(2)
(5)
(6)
(7)
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Fuel Tank
30 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel Tank
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Removal
1. Turn the fuel valve (1) OFF.
2. Remove the shroud A bolts/collars (2).
3. Remove the shroud B bolts (3) and shrouds (4).
4. Remove the seat (page 29).
5. Pull the breather tube (5) out of steering stem
nut.
6. Disconnect the fuel line (6).
7. Unhook the fuel tank band (7).
8. Remove the fuel tank bolts/washers (8).
9. Remove the fuel tank.
(1) fuel valve
(2) shroud A bolt/collar
(3) shroud B bolts
(4) shroud
(1)
(4)
(2)
(3)
(5) breather tube
(6) fuel line
(7) fuel tank band
(8) fuel tank bolts/washers
(5)
(7)
(6)
(8)
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
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Servicing Your Honda 31
Fuel Tank
Installation
1. Install the fuel tank on the frame.
2. Install the fuel tank bolts/washers (1), then
tighten them.
3. Hook the fuel tank band (2).
4. Connect the fuel line (3).
5. Put the breather tube (4) in the steering stem
nut.
6. Install the seat (page 29).
7. Install the left shroud tab (5) under the
crankcase breather tube (6).
8. Install the shrouds (7) and shroud B bolts (8).
9. Install and tighten the shroud A bolts/collars
(9).
10. Tighten the shroud B bolts.
(1) fuel tank bolts/washers
(2) fuel tank band
(3) fuel line
(4) breather tube
(4)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(5) left shroud tab (6) crankcase breather tube
(7) shroud
(8) shroud B bolts
(9) shroud A bolt/collar
(6)
(5)
(7)
(9)
(8)
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Subframe
32 Servicing Your Honda
Subframe
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Removal
1. Remove the muffler (page 85).
2. Remove the seat (page 29).
3. Disconnect the crankcase breather tube (1).
4. Pull out the transmission breather tube (2)
from the air cleaner housing.
5. Loosen the screw (3) on the air cleaner
connecting tube clamp (4).
6. Remove the subframe lower mounting bolts
(5) and upper mounting bolt (6). Then remove
the subframe (7) by pulling it straight
backward.
(1) crankcase breather tube
(2) transmission breather tube
(3) screw
(4) air cleaner connecting tube clamp
(2)
(1)
(4)
(3)
(5) subframe lower mounting bolts
(6) subframe upper mounting bolt
(7) subframe
(6)
(7)
(5)
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Servicing Your Honda 33
Subframe
Installation
1. Loosely attach the upper and lower ends of the
subframe (1) to the mainframe while
connecting the air cleaner connecting tube to
the carburetor.
Be careful not to bend the subframe.
Install the subframe upper mounting bolt (2)
and lower mounting bolts (3).
Tighten the upper mounting bolt and lower
mounting bolts to the specified torque:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
2. Make sure the carburetor tab (4) aligns with the
air cleaner connecting tube groove (5).
3. Tighten the connecting tube clamp screw (6)
so the gap between the tabs of the clamp is
0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1mm).
4. Connect the crankcase breather tube (7).
5. Route the transmission breather tube (8) into
the air cleaner housing.
6. Install the seat (page 29).
7. Install the muffler (page 86).
(1) subframe
(2) subframe upper mounting bolt
(3) subframe lower mounting bolts
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4) carburetor tab
(5) air cleaner connecting tube groove
(6) connecting tube clamp screw
(7) crankcase breather tube
(8) transmission breather tube
(5)
(4)
(6)
0.1 0.04 in (3 1 mm)
(8)
(7)
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Fuel System
34 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Use only unleaded fuel in your Honda. If you ride
your Honda in a country where leaded fuel might
be available, take precautions to use only unleaded
fuel.
Your engine is designed to use any unleaded
gasoline that has a pump octane number of 91 or
higher. Gasoline pumps at service stations
normally display the pump octane number. For
information on the use of oxygenated fuels, see
page 140.
Use of lower octane gasoline can cause persistent
“pinging” or “spark knock” (a louder rapping
noise) which, if severe, can lead to engine damage.
(Light pinging experienced while operating under
a heavy load, such as climbing a hill, is no cause
for concern.)
If pinging or spark knock occurs at a steady engine
speed under normal load, change brands of
gasoline. If pinging or spark knock persists,
consult your dealer.
Never use stale or contaminated gasoline. Avoid
getting dirt, dust or water in the fuel tank.
Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.14 US gal (4.3 ℓ)
1. To open the fuel fill cap (1), pull the breather
tube (2) out of the steering stem nut (3). Turn
the fuel fill cap counterclockwise and remove
it.
2. Add fuel until the level reaches the bottom of
the filler neck. Avoid overfilling the tank.
There should be no fuel in the filler neck.
3. Close the fuel fill cap and insert the breather
tube in the steering stem nut.
1. Check for leaks.
2. Check the fuel line (1) for cracks,
deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace the
fuel line, if necessary.
Fuel Recommendation
Type Unleaded
Pump Octane Number 91 (or higher)
Refueling Procedure
(1) fuel fill cap (3) steering stem nut
(2) breather tube
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(3)
(2)
(1)
Fuel Line
(1) fuel line
(1)
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Servicing Your Honda 35
Fuel System
The fuel filter is mounted on the bottom left side of
the fuel tank. Dirt accumulated in the filter will
restrict the flow of the fuel to the carburetor.
Therefore, the fuel filter should be serviced
frequently.
To service the fuel filter:
1. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank into an
approved gasoline container.
2. Remove the fuel tank (page 30)
3. Remove the fuel valve (1) from the fuel tank by
removing the bolts/collars (2).
4. Wash the fuel filter (3) in high flash-point
cleaning solvent.
5. Make sure the O-ring (4) is in good condition
and install it onto the fuel valve.
6. Install the fuel valve in the fuel tank by
tightening the bolts/collars to the specified
torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
7. Install the fuel tank (page 31) and refill the
fuel.
Turn the fuel valve ON; check for leaks.
Fuel Filter
(1) fuel valve (2) bolts/collars
(2)
(1)
(3) fuel filter (4) O-ring
(4)
(3)
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Engine Oil
36 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the engine. Even the best oil wears
out. Changing oil helps get rid of dirt and deposits.
Operating the engine with old or dirty oil can
damage your engine. Running the engine with
insufficient oil can cause serious damage to the
engine.
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving or resource conserving on
the circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives.
Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine oils
displaying the circular API “energy conserving”
or “resource conserving” service label on the
container. They may affect lubrication.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart may
be used when the average temperature in your
riding area is within the indicated range.
Oil Recommendation
API
classification
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving and resource
conserving on the circular
API service label
viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W-30
JASO T 903 standard MA
suggested oil* Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil
(USA & Canada), or Honda
4-stroke oil, or an
equivalent motorcycle oil.
NOT RECOMMENDED RECOMMENDED
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Engine Oil
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 37
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the oil
container. For example, the following label shows
the MA classification.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
engine.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1),
wipe it clean, and insert the engine oil fill cap/
dipstick without screwing it in. Remove the
engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
5. Check that the oil level is between the upper
(2) and lower (3) level marks on the engine oil
fill cap/dipstick.
• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark,
you do not have to add oil.
• If the oil is below or near the lower level
mark, add the recommended oil until it
reaches the upper level mark. (Do not
overfill.)
Reinstall the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
Repeat steps 1–5.
6. Reinsert the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
7. Check for oil leaks.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut it
off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1)
from the left crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch
the oil. Then remove the engine oil drain bolt
(2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and tighten it with a new
sealing washer to the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
(2)
(1)
(2)
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) upper level mark
(3) lower level mark
(1)
(2)
(3)
Changing Engine Oil & Filter
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) engine oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer
(1) (3)
(2)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
38 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Oil
6. It is recommended to replace the oil and filter
every 6 races or about every 15.0 hours.
However, if you replace only the oil before the
recommended interval, see page 21.
7. Remove the oil filter cover bolts (4) and oil
filter cover (5).
8. Remove the oil filter (6) and O-ring (7) from
the oil filter cover.
NOTICE
Using the wrong oil filter may result in leaks or
engine damage.
9. Apply grease to the filter side of the spring end,
then install the spring (8) into a new oil filter.
10. Position the spring against the engine
crankcase and install a new oil filter with the
rubber seal (9) facing out, away from the
engine. You should see the “OUT-SIDE” mark
(10) on the filter body, near the seal. Use a new
Honda Genuine oil filter or a filter of equal
quality specified for your model.
NOTICE
If the oil filter is not installed properly, it will
cause serious engine damage.
11. Apply engine oil to the new O-ring and install
it to the oil filter cover.
12. Install the oil filter cover being careful not to
damage the O-ring, then tighten the oil filter
cover bolts to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
13. Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil.
14. Install the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
15. Check the engine oil level by following the
steps in Checking & Adding Oil (page37).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
(4) oil filter cover bolts
(5) oil filter cover
(6) oil filter
(7) oil filter cover O-ring
(8) spring
(9) rubber seal
(10) “OUT-SIDE” mark
(8)
(10)
(7)
(6)
(9)
(5)
(4)
Capacity: 0.62 US qt (0.59 ℓ)
after draining and oil filter change
0.59 US qt (0.56 ℓ)
after draining
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Transmission Oil
Servicing Your Honda 39
Transmission Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the transmission and clutch. Even
the best oil wears out. Changing oil helps get rid of
dirt and deposits. Operating the engine with old or
dirty oil can damage your engine. Running the
engine with insufficient oil can cause serious
damage to the engine and transmission.
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving or resource conserving on
the circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives. Use the
recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum
additives. They may adversely affect clutch
operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine oils
displaying the circular API “energy conserving”
or “resource conserving” service label on the
container. They may affect lubrication and
clutch performance.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart may
be used when the average temperature in your
riding area is within the indicated range.
Oil Recommendation
API classification
(4-stroke engine oil
only)
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving and resource
conserving on the circular
API service label
Viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W-30
JASO T903
standard
MA
others without friction modifiers as
molybdenum additives
suggested oil*
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil
(USA & Canada), or Honda
4-stroke oil, or an equivalent
motorcycle oil.
NOT RECOMMENDED RECOMMENDED
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
40 Servicing Your Honda
Transmission Oil
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the oil
container. For example, the following label shows
the MA classification.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
clutch and transmission.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1), oil
check bolt (2) and sealing washer (3) from the
right crankcase cover. A small amount of oil
should flow out of the oil check bolt hole.
Allow any excess oil to flow out of the oil
check bolt hole.
If no oil flows out of the oil check bolt hole,
add oil slowly through the transmission oil fill
hole until oil starts to flow out of the oil check
bolt hole.
Install the oil check bolt with a new sealing
washer and transmission oil fill cap. Repeat
step 1–4.
5. After inspecting the oil level or adding oil,
tighten the oil check bolt to the specified
torque:
Oil Check Bolt: 7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
6. Install the transmission oil fill cap securely.
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1) from
the right crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch
the oil. Then remove the transmission oil drain
bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and tighten it with a new
sealing washer to the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
6. Fill the crankcase with recommended oil.
Capacity: 0.60 US qt (0.57 ℓ) after draining
7. Check the transmission oil level by following
the steps in Checking & Adding Oil (this page).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
(2)
(1)
(2)
Checking & Adding Oil
(1) transmission oil fill cap (3) sealing washer
(2) oil check bolt
(1)
(2)
(3)
Replacing Transmission Oil
(1) transmission oil fill cap (3) sealing washer
(2) transmission oil drain bolt
(1)
(3)
(2)
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Coolant
Servicing Your Honda 41
Coolant
Your CRF’s liquid cooling system dissipates
engine heat through the coolant jacket that
surrounds the cylinder and cylinder head.
Maintaining the coolant will allow the cooling
system to work properly and prevent freezing,
overheating, and corrosion.
Use Pro Honda HP Coolant or an equivalent high
quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing
corrosion protection inhibitors specifically
recommended for use in aluminum engines.
Check the antifreeze container label.
Use only distilled water as a part of the coolant
solution. Water that is high in mineral content or
salt may be harmful to the aluminum engine.
NOTICE
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause
premature wear of the water seal or blockage of
the radiator passages. Using tap water may cause
engine damage.
The factory provides a 50/50 solution of antifreeze
and water in this motorcycle. This coolant solution
is recommended for most operating temperatures
and provides good corrosion protection.
Decreasing the concentration of antifreeze to less
than 40% will not provide proper corrosion
protection.
Increasing the concentration of antifreeze is not
recommended because it decreases cooling system
performance. Higher concentrations of antifreeze
(up to 60%) should only be used to provide
additional protection against freezing.
Check the cooling system frequently during
freezing weather.
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
1. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap
(1) and check coolant level. The coolant level
is correct when it is at the bottom of the
radiator filler neck (2).
2. Add coolant up to the filler neck if the level is
low.
Inspect the coolant level before each outing.
A coolant loss of 0.7 – 2.0 US oz (20 – 60 cm
3
)
through the over flow tube is normal. If coolant
loss is more than this, inspect the cooling
system.
Capacity:
0.80 US qt (0.76 ℓ) after disassembly
3. Install the radiator cap securely.
NOTICE
If the radiator cap is not installed properly, it will
cause excessive coolant loss and may result in
overheating and engine damage.
Coolant Recommendation
Checking & Adding Coolant
(1) radiator cap
(2) radiator filler neck
(1)
(2)
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
42 Servicing Your Honda
Coolant
1. Check the cooling system for leaks (see the
Honda Service Manual for troubleshooting of
leaks).
2. Check the water hoses (1) for cracks,
deterioration, and hose clamps bands for
looseness.
3. Check the radiator mount for looseness.
4. Make sure the overflow hose (2) is connected
and not clogged.
5. Check the radiator fins for clogging.
6. Check the bleed hole (3) below the water pump
cover (4) for leakage. Check for signs of seal
leakage. A small amount of “weeping” from
the bleed hole is normal. See the Honda
Service Manual or consult your dealer for
replacing the water seal or the oil seal. Both
seals should be replaced at the same time.
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Coolant should be replaced by your dealer, unless
you have the proper tools and service data and are
mechanically qualified. Refer to the Honda
Service Manual (page 148).
To properly dispose of drained coolant, refer to
You & the Environment, page130.
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Cooling System Inspection
(1) water hoses
(2) overflow hose
(3) bleed hole
(4) water pump cover
(1)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
Coolant Replacement
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Air Cleaner
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 43
Air Cleaner
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
The air cleaner uses polyurethane inner and outer
pieces which can’t be separated.
A dirty air cleaner will reduce engine power.
Proper air cleaner maintenance is very important
for off-road vehicles. A dirty, water-soaked,
worn-out, or defective air cleaner will allow dirt,
dust, mud, and other impurities to pass into the
engine.
Service the air cleaner more frequently if you ride
in unusually wet or dusty areas. Your dealer can
help you determine the correct service interval for
your riding conditions.
Your CRF’s air cleaner has very specific
performance requirements. Use a new Honda
Genuine air cleaner specified for your model or an
air cleaner of equal quality.
NOTICE
Using the wrong air cleaner may result in
premature engine wear.
Proper air cleaner maintenance can prevent
premature engine wear or damage, expensive
repairs, low engine power, poor gas mileage, and
spark plug fouling.
NOTICE
Improper or lack of proper air cleaner
maintenance can cause poor performance and
premature engine wear.
1. Remove the seat (page 29).
2. Remove the air cleaner retaining bolt (1) and
air cleaner assembly (2).
3. Remove the air cleaner element (3) from the air
cleaner holder (4).
4. Wash the air cleaner element in clean non-
flammable cleaning solvent. Then wash in hot,
soapy water, rinse well, and allow to dry
thoroughly.
The air cleaner element is made in two pieces:
inner and outer, which cannot be separated.
5. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.
6. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly. After
drying, apply 1.7 US oz (50 cm
3
) of clean Pro
Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent air
cleaner oil from the inside of the element.
Place the element into a plastic bag and spread
the oil evenly by hand.
7. Apply 0.09 – 0.11 oz (2.6 – 3.0 g) of Pro Honda
White Lithium Grease or an equivalent to the
air cleaner housing contact area of the air
cleaner element.
8. Assemble the air cleaner element and holder.
Install the holder tab (5) in the hole (6) of the
air cleaner tab (7).
Cleaning
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(2) air cleaner assembly
(3) air cleaner element (6) hole
(4) air cleaner holder (7) air cleaner tab
(5) holder tab
(1)
(2)
(7)
(5)
(3)
(4)
(6)
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Air Cleaner
44 Servicing Your Honda
9. Install the air cleaner assembly into the air
cleaner housing.
• Install the air cleaner assembly with the air
cleaner element tab (8) facing up.
• Position the air cleaner element stay boss (9)
between the air cleaner holder tabs (10).
10. Install and tighten the air cleaner retaining
bolt (1).
NOTICE
Improper installation of the air cleaner assembly
may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine and
cause rapid wear of the piston rings and cylinder.
11. Install the seat (page 29).
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(8) air cleaner element tab
(9) air cleaner element stay boss
(10) air cleaner holder tabs
(1)
(8)
(9)
(10)
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Crankcase Breather
Servicing Your Honda 45
Crankcase Breather
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Service more frequently if your CRF is ridden in
the rain or often at full throttle.
Service the breather if you can see deposits in the
transparent section of the drain tube.
1. Remove the crankcase breather tube plug (1)
from the tube (2) and drain deposits into a
suitable container.
2. Reinstall the crankcase breather tube plug.
Draining
(1) crankcase breather tube plug
(2) tube
(1)
(2)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Throttle
46 Servicing Your Honda
Throttle
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
\
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay: 1/8 – 3/16 in (3 – 5 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Upper Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
upper adjuster.
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (2).
3. Turn the adjuster (3).
Turning the adjuster in direction (–) will
decrease freeplay and turning it in direction (+)
will increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Return the dust cover to its normal position.
5. After adjustment, check for smooth rotation of
the throttle grip from fully closed to fully open
in all steering positions.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or
the correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in and back out one
turn.
Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Install the dust cover and make the adjustment
with the lower adjuster.
Lower Adjustment
The lower adjuster is used for major freeplay
adjustment, such as after replacing the throttle
cables or removing the carburetor. It is also used if
you cannot get the proper adjustment with the
upper adjuster.
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (2).
3. Turn the adjuster (3) in direction (–) to
decrease freeplay, and in direction (+) to
increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
5. Operate the throttle grip to ensure that it
functions smoothly and returns completely.
6. Install the dust cover.
If you can’t get the freeplay within the specified
range, contact your dealer.
Throttle Freeplay
(1) freeplay
(1) dust cover (+) increase freeplay
(2) lock nut (–) decrease freeplay
(3) adjuster
(1)
(1)
(+)
(–)
(2)
(3)
(1) dust cover (+) increase freeplay
(2) lock nut (–) decrease freeplay
(3) adjuster
(3)
(+)
(–)
(1)
(2)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Throttle
Servicing Your Honda 47
1. Check that the throttle assembly is positioned
properly (the end of the throttle housing (1) is
aligned with the punch mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
2. Check for smooth rotation of the throttle (3)
from fully open to fully closed in all steering
positions. If there is a problem, see your dealer.
3. Inspect the condition of the throttle cables
from the throttle grip down to the carburetor.
If the cable is kinked or chafed, have it
replaced.
4. Check the cables for tension or stress in all
steering positions.
5. Lubricate the cables with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
rust and corrosion.
Throttle Inspection
(1) throttle housing (2) punch mark
(3) throttle
(1)
(2)
(3)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Engine Idle Speed
48 Servicing Your Honda
Engine Idle Speed
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Remember, idle speed adjustment is not a
“cure-all” for other problems in your engine’s
fuel-delivery system. Adjusting the idle will not
compensate for a fault elsewhere.
The engine must be at normal operating
temperature for accurate idle speed adjustment.
The best way to assure proper carburetion is to see
your dealer for regularly scheduled servicing,
including carburetor adjustment.
1. If the engine is cold, start it and warm it up 3
minutes and then shut it off.
2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. Shift the transmission into neutral and start the
engine.
4. Keep the motorcycle in an upright position.
5. Adjust idle speed with the throttle stop screw
(1).
Idle speed:
2,100 ± 100 rpm
Idle Speed Adjustment
(1) throttle stop screw
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Clutch System
Servicing Your Honda 49
Clutch System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Inspection
Check freeplay.
Freeplay: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Improper freeplay adjustment can cause premature
clutch wear.
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
the clutch cable is disconnected.
Cable End Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
cable end adjuster.
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (2) and turn the cable end
adjuster (3). Turning the adjuster in direction
(–) will decrease freeplay and turning in the
direction (+) will increase freeplay.
3. After adjustment, tighten the lock nut and
install the dust cover.
4. Check the freeplay again.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the
correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in direction (+) and make the
adjustment with the integral cable adjuster.
Integral Cable Adjustment
The integral cable adjuster is used if the cable end
adjuster is threaded out near its limit — or the
correct freeplay cannot be obtained.
1. Turn the cable end adjuster in direction (+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out one
turn.
2. Loosen the lock nut (1).
3. Turn the integral cable adjuster (2) to obtain
the specified freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut. Check the freeplay.
5. Start the engine, pull the clutch lever in, and
shift into gear. Make sure the engine does not
stall and the motorcycle does not creep.
Gradually release the clutch lever and open the
throttle. Your CRF should move smoothly and
accelerate gradually.
If you can’t get proper adjustment, or the clutch
does not work properly, the cable may be kinked or
worn, or the clutch discs may be worn. See your
dealer or refer to the Honda Service Manual
(page 148).
Clutch Lever Freeplay
(1) clutch lever
(1)
(1) dust cover (+) increase freeplay
(2) lock nut (–) decrease freeplay
(3) cable end adjuster
(2)
(3)
(1)
(–)
(+)
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) integral cable adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
(2)
(–)
(+)
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
50 Servicing Your Honda
Clutch System
• Check that the clutch lever assembly is
positioned properly (the end of the holder (1) is
aligned with the punch mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
• Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of
wear. If necessary, have it replaced.
• Lubricate the clutch cable with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
wear and corrosion.
1. Check for smooth clutch lever operation. If
necessary, lubricate the clutch lever pivot or
clutch cable.
2. Check the clutch cable for deterioration, kinks,
or damage.
Other Inspections & Lubrication
(1) end of the holder (2) punch mark
Clutch Operation
(1)
(2)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Hot Start Lever
Servicing Your Honda 51
Hot Start Lever
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Inspection
Check freeplay:
Freeplay: 1/16 – 1/8 in (2 – 3 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
Adjustment
Adjustments can be made with the cable adjuster.
Loosen the lock nut (1) and turn the adjuster (2).
Turning the adjuster clockwise (+) will increase
freeplay and turning it counterclockwise (–) will
decrease freeplay. After adjustment, tighten the
lock nut.
Hot Start Lever Freeplay
(1) hot start lever
(2) hot start lever freeplay
(2)
(1)
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
(2)
(–)
(+)
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Spark Plug
52 Servicing Your Honda
Spark Plug
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
The recommended standard spark plug is
satisfactory for most racing conditions.
Use only the recommended type of spark plugs in
the recommended heat range.
NOTICE
Using a spark plug with an improper heat range or
incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Using a non-resistor spark plug may cause
ignition problems.
1. Pull the dust cover (1) back.
2. Disconnect the direct ignition coil connector
(2).
3. Disconnect the direct ignition coil (3).
4. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug
base.
5. Remove the spark plug (4).
6. Check the electrodes for wear or deposits, the
sealing gasket (5) for damage, and the insulator
for cracks. Replace if you detect them.
7. Check the spark plug gap (6) using a feeler
gauge, and adjust by carefully bending the side
electrode (7).
The recommended spark plug gap is:
0.031 – 0.035 in (0.8 – 0.9 mm)
8. To obtain accurate spark plug readings,
accelerate up to speed on a straightaway. Push
the engine stop button and disengage the clutch
by pulling the lever in.
Coast to a stop, then remove and inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator around the center
electrode should appear tan or medium gray.
If you're using a new plug, ride for at least 10
minutes before taking a plug reading; a brand-new
plug will not show color initially.
If the electrodes appear burnt, or the insulator is
white or light gray (lean) or the electrodes and
insulator are black or fouled (rich), there is a
problem elsewhere (page 122).
Check the carburetor, fuel system and ignition
timing.
9. W
ith the sealing gasket attached, thread the
spark plug in by hand to prevent crossthreading.
10. Tighten the spark plug:
• If the old plug is good:
1/8 turn after it seats.
• If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to
prevent loosening:
a) First, tighten the plug:
NGK: 1/2 turn after it seats.
DENSO: 1 turn after it seats.
b) Then loosen the plug.
c) Next, tighten the plug again:
1/8 turn after it seats.
NOTICE
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, the piston may be
damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may be
damaged.
11. Connect the direct ignition coil. Take care to
avoid pinching any cables or wires.
12. Connect the direct ignition coil connector.
13. Install the dust cover.
Spark Plug Recommendation
Standard
CR8EH-9 (NGK)
U24FER9 (DENSO)
Optional
CR9EH-9 (NGK)
U27FER9 (DENSO)
Spark Plug Inspection & Replacement
(1) dust cover (3) direct ignition coil
(2) direct ignition coil connector (4) spark plug
(5) sealing gasket
(6) spark plug gap
(7) side electrode
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(6)
(7)
(5)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Valve Clearance
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 53
Valve Clearance
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Excessive valve clearance will cause noise and
eventual engine damage. Little or no clearance will
prevent the valve from closing and cause valve
damage and power loss. Check the valve clearance
when the engine is cold at the intervals specified in
the Maintenance Schedule (page 21).
The checking or adjusting of the valve clearance
should be performed while the engine is cold.
The valve clearance will change as engine
temperature rises.
Before inspection, clean the engine thoroughly to
keep dirt from entering the engine.
1. Remove the seat and fuel tank (page 29, 30).
2. Remove the spark plug (page 52).
3. Disconnect the breather tube (1).
4. Remove the cylinder head cover bolts (2) and
cylinder head cover (3).
5. Remove the spark plug hole packing.
1. Remove the crankshaft hole cap (1).
2. Remove the spark plug (page 52).
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
(1) breather tube
(2) cylinder head cover bolts
(3) cylinder head cover
(1)
(3)
(2)
Positioning At Top Dead Center On The
Compression Stroke
(1) crankshaft hole cap
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
54 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
3. Rotate the crankshaft by turning the primary
drive gear bolt (2) (crankshaft) clockwise until
the punch mark (3) on the primary drive gear
aligns with the index mark (4) on the right
crankcase cover. In this position, the piston
may either be on the compression or exhaust
stroke.
If the crankshaft passed the punch mark, rotate
the primary drive gear bolt clockwise again
and align the punch mark with the index mark.
The inspection must be made when the piston
is at the top of the compression stroke when
both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.
This condition can be determined by moving
the exhaust rocker arms (5). If they are free, it
is an indication that the valves are closed and
that the piston is on the compression stroke. If
they are tight and the valves are open, rotate
the primary drive gear bolt 360° and realign the
punch mark with the index mark.
1. Measure the intake valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the valve
lifters (2) and intake cam lobes (3).
2. Measure the exhaust valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the
exhaust rocker arms (4) and exhaust valve
shims (5).
Valve Clearance:
If intake valve clearance and exhaust valve
clearance need adjustment, see Camshaft Holder
Assembly Removal (page 55) and select the correct
shim for each valve.
(2) primary drive gear bolt (4) index mark
(3) punch mark
(2)
(4)
(3)
(5) exhaust rocker arms
Valve Clearance Inspection
(1) feeler gauge
(2) valve lifters
(3) intake cam lobes
(5)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1) feeler gauge
(4) exhaust rocker arms
(5) exhaust valve shims
IN: 0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.010 ± 0.001 in (0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
(1)
(5)
(4)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Valve Clearance
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 55
1. Record the intake valve clearance and exhaust
valve clearance.
Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead
Center) on the compression stroke (page 53).
2. Loosen the connecting tube clamp screw (1)
and insulator band screw (2) and rotate the
carburetor to access for the cam chain
tensioner lifter.
3. Remove the cam chain tensioner lifter cover
bolt (3) and sealing washer (4).
Use the tensioner stopper tool.
• Tensioner stopper 070MG-0010100
07AMG-001A100
(USA only)
4. Turn the tensioner shaft clockwise with the
tensioner stopper (5) until it stops, in order to
retract the tensioner fully.
Then insert the tensioner stopper fully to hold
the stopper in the fully retracted position.
5. Remove the bolt (6), stopper plate (7), return
spring (8) and decompressor weight (9).
NOTICE
Do not let the bolt, stopper plate, return spring
and decompressor weight fall into the crankcase.
6. Remove the cam sprocket bolts (10) and cam
sprocket (11), then attach a piece of wire to the
cam chain (12) to prevent it from falling into
the crankcase.
NOTICE
Do not let the bolts, sprocket and cam chain fall
into the crankcase.
Camshaft Holder Assembly Removal
(1) connecting tube clamp screw
(2) insulator band screw
(3) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(4) sealing washer
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5) tensioner stopper
(6) bolt (8) return spring
(7) stopper plate (9) decompressor weight
(5)
(5)
(9)
(8)
(7)
(6)
(10) cam sprocket bolts (12) cam chain
(11) cam sprocket
(12)
(11)
(10)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
56 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
7. Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead
Center) on the compression stroke. Loosen the
camshaft holder assembly bolts (13) in a
crisscross pattern in two or three steps.
Remove the camshaft holder assembly bolts
and camshaft holder assembly (14).
• As you remove the camshaft holder assembly,
valve lifters and shims may be sticking in the
camshaft holder assembly.
• Keep the intake valve lifters and the shims
separate so you can easily identify the
originally installed location such as intake or
exhaust, right or left.
NOTICE
Do not let the valve lifters and shims fall into the
crankcase.
8. Remove the valve lifters (15).
9. Remove the O-ring (16).
10. Remove the shims (17).
Keep the shims separate so you can easily identify
the originally installed location, such as intake or
exhaust, right or left.
NOTICE
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase.
(13) camshaft holder assembly bolts
(14) camshaft holder assembly
(13)
(14)
(15) valve lifters (16) O-ring
(16)
(15)
(17) shims
(17)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 57
Valve Clearance
1. Clean the valve shim contact area in the valve
lifter (1) with compressed air.
2. Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer
and record it.
Sixty-nine different thickness shims (2) are
available from the thinnest (1.200 mm thickness)
shim to the thickest (2.900 mm thickness) in
intervals of 0.025 mm.
3. Calculate the new shim thickness using the
equation below.
A = (B – C) + D
A: New shim thickness
B: Recorded valve clearance
C: Specified valve clearance
D: Old shim thickness
• Make sure of the correct shim thickness by
measuring the shim with a micrometer.
• Reface the intake valve seat if carbon deposits
result in a calculated dimension of over
2.450 mm.
Reface the exhaust valve seat if carbon deposits
result in a calculated dimension of over
2.900 mm.
Shim Selection
(1) valve lifter
(2) shim
(1)
(2)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
58 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
1. While holding the cam chain, rotate the
primary drive gear bolt (1) (crankshaft)
clockwise and align the punch mark (2) with
the index mark (3).
2. Install the newly selected shims (4) on the
valve spring retainers (5).
NOTICE
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase.
3. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the outer surface of each
valve lifter (6).
4. Install the valve lifters in their original location
into the camshaft holder assembly.
5. Apply oil to new O-ring (7) and install it.
6. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the surface of the cam
lobes.
Install the camshaft holder assembly onto the
cylinder head aligning the index line (8) on the
camshaft flange with the index mark (9) on the
camshaft holder as illustrated above. Apply oil
to the camshaft holder assembly bolt threads
and seating surface.
Align the camshaft holder assembly bolt holes
(10) with the rocker arm shaft cut-outs (11).
Tighten the camshaft holder assembly bolts
(12) in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps
to the specified torque:
10 lbf·ft (13 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Do not let the bolts and valve lifters fall into the
crankcase.
Camshaft Holder Assembly Installation
(1) primary drive gear bolt
(2) punch mark
(3) index mark
(4) shims (5) valve spring retainers
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6) valve lifters (7) O-ring
(7)
(6)
(8) index line
(9) index mark
(12) camshaft holder assembly bolts
(10) camshaft holder assembly bolts holes
(11) rocker arm shaft cut-outs
(12)
(8)
(9)
(10)
(11)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Valve Clearance
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 59
7. Install the cam chain (13) on the cam sprocket
(14) while aligning the timing marks (15) on
the cam sprocket with the “ ” marks (16) on
the camshaft holder, then install the cam
sprocket on the camshaft.
Install the cam sprocket with its “OUT” mark (17)
facing out.
NOTICE
Do not let the sprocket and cam chain fall into the
crankcase.
8. Clean and apply locking agent to the cam
sprocket bolt threads.
9. Tighten the cam sprocket bolts (18) alternately
to the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Do not let the bolts fall into the crankcase.
10. Install the decompressor weight (19) and
return spring (20) as illustrated below.
11. Clean and apply locking agent to the bolt
threads (coating width: 0.26 ± 0.04 in (6.5 ±
1 mm) from tip).
12. Install the stopper plate (21) and tighten the
bolt (22) to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
(13) cam chain
(16) “ ” marks
(14) cam sprocket (17) “OUT” mark
(15) timing marks
(13)
(14)
(17)
(16)
(15)
(18) cam sprocket bolts
(1)
(18)
(19) decompressor weight
(20) return spring
(21) stopper plate (22) bolt
(20)
(19)
(21)
(22)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
60 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
13. Remove the tensioner stopper (23) from the
cam chain tensioner lifter.
14. Install a new sealing washer (24) and tighten
the cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt (25).
15. Rotate the primary drive gear bolt (crankshaft)
clockwise two turns and align the punch mark
(2) with the index mark (3).
16. Measure the intake valve clearance and
exhaust valve clearance by inserting a feeler
gauge (26).
Valve Clearance:
17. Coat a new O-ring (27) with oil and install it
onto the crankshaft hole cap (28).
Apply grease to the crankshaft hole cap
threads.
Install and tighten the crankshaft hole cap to
the specified torque:
11 lbf·ft (15 N·m, 1.5 kgf·m)
(23) tensioner stopper
(24) sealing washer
(25) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(23)
(25)
(24)
(2) punch mark
(3) index mark
IN: 0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.010 ± 0.001 in (0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
(26) feeler gauge
(2)
(3)
(26)
(26)
(27) O-ring
(28) crankshaft hole cap
(28)
(27)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 61
Valve Clearance
18. Rotate the carburetor and align the tabs (29) on
the carburetor with the grooves (30) on the
insulator and connecting tube.
19. Tighten the connecting tube clamp screw (31)
so the gap between the tabs of the clamp is
0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1 mm).
20. Tighten the insulator band screw (32) so the
gap between the tabs of the clamp is 0.3 ± 0.04
in (7 ± 1 mm).
1. Check the spark plug hole packing (1) is in
good condition, replace it if necessary.
Apply oil to the spark plug hole packing.
Install the spark plug hole packing to the
cylinder head cover.
2. Inspect the cylinder head cover packing (2) for
damage or deterioration, replace it if
necessary.
Install the cylinder head cover packing into the
groove of the cylinder head cover (3).
3. Check the rubber seal (4) is in good condition,
replace them if necessary.
Install the rubber seals onto the cylinder head
cover with their “UP” marks (5) facing up.
4. Install the cylinder head cover (3) and tighten
the cylinder head cover bolts (6) to the
specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Connect the breather tube (7).
6. Install the spark plug and direct ignition coil
(page 52).
7. Install the fuel tank and the seat (pages 31, 29).
(29) tabs (31) connecting tube clamp screw
(30) grooves
(30)
(30)
(31)
(29)
0.1 0.04 in (3 1 mm)
(32) insulator band screw
Cylinder Head Cover Installation
(1) spark plug hole packing
(2) cylinder head cover packing
(3) cylinder head cover
(32)
0.3 0.04 in
(7 1 mm)
(3)
(1)
(2)
(4) rubber seal (5) “UP” marks
(3) cylinder head cover
(6) cylinder head cover bolts
(7) breather tube
(4)
(5)
(7)
(3)
(6)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
62 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Clean the area above the engine before
removal to prevent dirt falling into the engine.
2. Drain the radiator coolant after cooling the
motorcycle (page 42).
3. Remove the seat and fuel tank (pages 29, 30).
4. Remove the carburetor (page 112).
5. Remove the exhaust pipe (page 87).
6. Remove the spark plug (page 52).
7. Remove the cylinder head cover (page 53).
8. Remove the camshaft holder assembly
(page 55).
9. Remove the radiator grills (1)
10. Loosen the water hose clamp screws and
disconnect the water hoses (2).
11. Disconnect the radiator overflow hose (3).
• Note the direction of the hose clamp.
• Be careful not to damage the radiator core.
12. Remove the radiator mounting bolts/washers
(4) and radiators (5).
Cylinder Head Removal
(1) radiator grills
(1)
(2) water hoses
(3) radiator overflow hose
(2)
(3)
(2)
(2)
(4) radiator mounting bolts/washers
(5) radiators
(5)
(4)
(4)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 63
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
13. Remove the cylinder head bolts (6).
14. Loosen the cylinder bolt (7).
15. Remove the cylinder head nuts/washers (8)
and cylinder head (9).
Loosen the nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three steps.
NOTICE
Do not let the nuts, washers and cam chain fall
into the crankcase.
16. Remove the dowel pins (10), cylinder head
gasket (11) and cam chain guide (12).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins and cam chain fall into
the crankcase.
(6) cylinder head bolts
(7) cylinder bolt
(7)
(6)
(8) cylinder head nuts/washers
(9) cylinder head
(8)
(9)
(10) dowel pins (12) cam chain guide
(11) cylinder head gasket
(11)
(12)
(10)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
64 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Remove the cylinder bolt (1) and cylinder (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the cam chain fall into the crankcase.
Do not pry on or strike the cylinder.
2. Remove the dowel pins (3) and cylinder
gasket (4).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
1. Place clean shop towels in the crankcase to
keep the piston pin clips or other parts from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Remove the piston pin clips (1) using a pair of
needle-nose pliers.
3. Press the piston pin (2) out of the piston (3),
and remove the piston.
Under racing conditions, the piston should be
replaced after 15.0 hours of running. Replace the
piston pin after 15.0 hours of running.
Spread each piston ring (1) and remove by lifting it
up at a point just opposite the gap.
Under racing conditions, the piston rings should be
replaced after 15.0 hours of running.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
Cylinder Removal
(1) cylinder bolt
(2) cylinder
(3) dowel pins
(4) cylinder gasket
(2)
(1)
(4)
(3)
Piston Removal
(1) piston pin clip (3) piston
(2) piston pin
(2)
(1)
(3)
Piston Ring Removal
(1) piston ring
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 65
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
We recommend you consult the Service Manual or
your dealer for correct Service Limit
measurements.
1. Remove the carbon deposits from the piston
crown and piston ring grooves with the
removed ring (1).
2. Apply engine oil to piston rings and install
them.
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
Do not damage the piston during piston ring
installation.
• To install the oil ring, install the spacer first,
then install the side rails.
• Install the top ring on the piston with the
marking side facing up.
3. After installing the rings they should rotate
freely, without sticking.
Space the ring end gaps 180 degrees apart
between top ring and upper side rail.
Space the ring end gaps 90 degrees apart
between upper side rail, spacer and lower side
rail.
Piston/Piston Pin/Piston Ring Inspection Piston Ring Installation
(1) removed ring
(1)
top ring
oil ring
mark
top ring
oil
ring
side rail
side rail
spacer
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
66 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
1. Place clean shop towels over the crankcase
opening to keep the piston pin clips from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the inner surface of the
connecting rod small end.
3. Place the piston (1) with the “IN” mark (2) and/
or the large valve recesses (3) facing the intake
side of the engine.
4. Apply engine oil to the piston pin (4) and inner
surface of the piston pin hole.
Install the piston pin and new piston pin clips (5).
NOTICE
Use new piston pin clips. Never reuse old piston
pin clips.
Do not let the piston pin clips fall into the
crankcase.
Do not align the piston pin clip end gap with the
piston cut-out (6).
1. Clean off any gasket material from the gasket
surface of the crankcase, being careful not to
let any material fall into the crankcase. Be
careful not to remove any metal from the
gasket surface.
2. Remove the shop towel. Do not let any gasket
debris fall into the crankcase, being careful not
to let any material fall into the crankcase.
Be careful not to remove any metal from the
gasket surface.
3. Install the dowel pins (1) and a new cylinder
gasket (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
4. Clean any gasket material off the cylinder.
Piston Installation
(1) piston (4) piston pin
(2) “IN” mark (5) piston pin clip
(3) large valve recesses
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(5) piston pin clip (6) piston cut-out
(6)
(5)
Cylinder Installation
(1) dowel pins
(2) cylinder gasket
(2)
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 67
5. Apply clean engine oil to the cylinder wall,
piston outer surface and piston rings.
Route the cam chain (3) through the cylinder
(4).
Install the cylinder over the piston rings by
hand while compressing the piston rings (5).
NOTICE
Do not damage the piston rings and cylinder wall.
6. Install the cam chain guide (6) and fit the cam
chain guide tabs (7) in the cylinder cut-outs
(8).
Push the guide until it bottoms in the crankcase
guide hole.
1. Install the dowel pins (1) and a new cylinder
head gasket (2).
NOTICE
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
(3) cam chain (5) piston rings
(4) cylinder
(4)
(3)
(5)
(6) cam chain guide
(7) cam chain guide tabs
(8) cylinder cut-outs
(6)
(7)
(8)
(8)
Cylinder Head Installation
(1) dowel pins
(2) cylinder head gasket
(2)
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
68 Servicing Your Honda
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
2. Route the cam chain through the cylinder head.
Install the cylinder head (3).
NOTICE
Do not damage mating surfaces when installing
the cylinder head.
3. Apply engine oil to the cylinder head nut
threads and seating surfaces.
Install the washers and cylinder head nuts (4).
Tighten the cylinder head nuts in a crisscross
pattern in two or three steps to the specified
torque:
21 lbf·ft (29 N·m, 3.0 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Do not let the washers and nuts fall into the
crankcase.
4. Install the cylinder bolt (5) and cylinder head
bolts (6) and tighten them to the specified
torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
5. Install the radiators (7) and tighten the radiator
mounting bolts/washers (8).
(3) cylinder head
(4) cylinder head nuts/washers
(4)
(3)
(5) cylinder bolt
(6) cylinder head bolts
(5)
(6)
(7) radiators
(8) radiator mounting bolts/washers
(7)
(8)
(8)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 69
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
6. Connect the radiator overflow hose (9).
7. Connect the water hoses (10).
8. Tighten the hose clamp screws (11) as
illustrated below.
• Route the hoses correctly.
• Be careful not to damage the radiator core.
9. Install the radiator grills (12).
10. Install the camshaft holder assembly (page 58).
11. Install the cylinder head cover (page 61).
12. Install the spark plug and direct ignition coil
(page 52).
13. Install the exhaust pipe (page 87).
14. Install the carburetor (page 116).
15. Install the fuel tank (page 31) and seat
(page 29).
16. Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
(page 41).
Check for the following:
– compression leaks
– abnormal engine noise
– secondary air leaks
– coolant leaks
(9) radiator overflow hose
(10) water hoses
(10)
(9)
(10)
(11) hose clamp screw
0 – 0.04 in
(0 – 1 mm)
(11)
(12) radiator grills
(12)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Suspension
70 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Loose, worn, or damaged suspension components
may adversely affect the handling and stability of
your CRF. If any suspension components appear
worn or damaged, see your dealer for further
inspection. Your dealer is qualified to determine
whether or not replacement parts or repairs are
needed.
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour to ensure that the
suspension has worked in (page 16).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the
front suspension at the standard setting before
attempting any adjustments.
• For optimum fork performance, we
recommend that you disassemble and clean the
fork after riding your CRF for 3 hours.
See page 94 for fork disassembly.
• Replace the fork oil every 3 races or 7.5 hours
of running. See pages 73, 74 for oil level
adjustment after changing the fork oil.
• Use HP Fork Oil, SS-19 or an equivalent
which contains special additives to assure
maximum performance of your CRF's front
suspension.
• Periodically check and clean all front
suspension parts to assure top performance.
Check the dust seals for dust, dirt, and foreign
materials. Check the oil for any contamination.
•Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page107). Make all rebound and compression
damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
(Adjusting 1/2 or more turns at a time may
cause you to pass over the best adjustment.)
Test ride after each adjustment.
• If you become confused about adjustment
settings, return to the standard position and
start over.
• If the fork is still too stiff/soft after adjusting
compression damping, determine which
portion of the travel is still too stiff/soft. This is
an important step that will help you solve
suspension problems.
1. Make sure that the fork protectors (1) and dust
seals (2) are clean and not packed with mud
and dirt.
2. Check for signs of oil leakage. Damaged or
leaking fork seals should be replaced before
your CRF is ridden.
3. Inspect the wear rings (3) for wear or damage.
Replace the wear ring if it is 0.06 in (1.5 mm)
or flat with the outer tube (4).
Remove the fork leg when replacing the wear
ring (page 94).
Install the wear ring with its end gap (5) facing
rearward.
4. Make a quick check of fork operation by
locking the front brake and pushing down on
the handlebar several times.
Front Suspension Inspection
(1) fork protector (2) dust seal
(2)
(1)
(3) wear ring (4) outer tube
(3) wear rings (5) end gaps
(3)
(4)
(3)
(5)
(5)
(3)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 71
Suspension
The swingarm is controlled by one hydraulic shock
absorber with an aluminum reservoir for oil and
nitrogen gas pressure. The gas pressure in the
reservoir is contained within a rubber bladder.
The shock absorber’s spring pre-load and damping
adjustments (compression and rebound) should be
adjusted for the rider’s weight and track conditions
(pages 104, 106, 107).
Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or dispose
of the damper; see your dealer. The instructions
found in this owner’s manual are limited to
adjustments of the shock assembly only.
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour with the standard
suspension settings before attempting to adjust
the rear suspension.
•Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page 107). Make all compression and rebound
damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
(Adjusting 1/2 or more turns at a time may
cause you to pass over the best adjustment.)
Test ride after each adjustment.
• If the rear suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust it
by turning both the compression and rebound
damping adjusters in 1/4 turn increments until
the suspension feels approximately “right”.
(Turning just one adjuster, rather than both,
may cause a loss of balance between
compression and rebound damping.) After
adjusting both adjusters simultaneously,
suspension may be fine-tuned by turning either
the compression or rebound damping adjuster
in 1/4 turn increments.
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable
adjustment, return to the standard position and
begin again.
1. Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down
and check for smooth suspension action.
2. Remove the subframe (page 32).
3. Check for a broken or collapsed spring.
4. Check the rear shock absorber (1) for a bent
shaft or oil leaks.
5. Push the rear wheel sideways to check for
worn or loose swingarm bearings. There
should be no movement. If there is, have the
bearings replaced by your dealer.
Rear Suspension Inspection
(1) rear shock absorber
(1)
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72 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
1. Remove the fork cap, and fork spring as
described in Front Suspension Oil Level
(page 94).
2. Pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork tube
and piston rod (1) eight - ten times with the rod
end down as shown.
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 130).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained oil is harmful to the
environment.
3. Pour half of the recommended fork oil into the
fork slider and fork tube.
4. Raise the fork tube (2) and cover the top of the
tube with your hand. Compress the fork tube
fully, then release your hand. Use your other
hand to secure the fork tube. Repeat this
procedure three times.
5. Pour the remaining fork oil into the piston rod
until a little oil flows out of the top of the rod.
Pump the piston rod slowly eight - ten times
through a stroke of 10 in (25 cm). Gently slide
the fork tube down onto the lower end of the
slider pipe (3).
Wait about 5 minutes.
Recommended Fork Oil
suggested oil HP Fork Oil, SS-19
Fork Oil Change
(1) piston rod
(1)
(2) fork tube
(1) piston rod
(2) fork tube
(3) lower end of the slider
pipe
(2)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(3)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Suspension
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 73
6. With the fork tube held upright, measure the
oil level (4) from the top of the tube.
7. Adjust the oil level by adding or removing the
oil with an after market syringe (5).
Fork Oil Level (CRF150R)
Standard 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Softer 17.9 lbf/in (3.14 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
(4) oil level
(5) syringe
(4)
(5)
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
4.88 in
124.0 mm
12.04 US oz
(356.0 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
4.83 in
122.8 mm
12.07 US oz
(357.0 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.43 in
188.7 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.61 in
193.4 mm
10.14 US oz
(299.9 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 coil at both ends
(factory products)
2 coils at one end;
1 coil at other end
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.64 in
194.1 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 scribe mark
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74 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
Fork Oil Level (CRF150RB)
Standard 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Softer 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 21.3 lbf/in (3.73 N/mm) Fork Spring
Be sure to check the oil level. Some oil will be left
in the fork tube when the oil is drained and causes
the oil level to be raised slightly.
Be sure the oil level is the same in both fork legs.
If a syringe is not available, first set the oil level
somewhat lower than normal, then add small
amounts of oil until the correct level is obtained,
measuring the level each time oil is added.
8. Install the fork spring and fork cap.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.55 in
141.0 mm
11.57 US oz
(342.0 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.16 in
131.0 mm
11.84 US oz
(350.1 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.63 in
193.7 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.34 in
135.7 mm
11.71 US oz
(346.3 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
4.95 in
125.7 mm
11.99 US oz
(354.4 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.42 in
188.4 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 scribe mark
(factory products)
1 coil at both ends
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.43 in
137.9 mm
11.65 US oz
(344.5 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
127.9 mm
11.92 US oz
(352.6 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.50 in
190.6 mm
10.21 US oz
(301.9 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
2 scribe mark
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Brakes
Servicing Your Honda 75
Brakes
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Both the front and rear brakes are the hydraulic
disc type. As the brake pads wear, the brake fluid
level will drop. A leak in the system will also cause
the level to drop.
Frequently inspect the system to ensure there are
no fluid leaks. Periodically inspect the brake fluid
level and the brake pads for wear.
If the front brake lever or rear brake pedal freeplay
does not feel within the normal range while riding,
check the brake pads. If they are not worn beyond
the recommended limit (page 78), there is probably
air in the brake system. Refer to the Honda Service
Manual or see your dealer to have the air bled from
the system.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. To position the brake lever farther away from
the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2) clockwise.
To position the brake lever closer to the
handgrip, turn the adjuster counterclockwise.
3. While holding the adjuster, tighten the lock nut
to the specified torque:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
4. Apply the brake, release it, then spin the wheel
and check that it rotates freely. Repeat this
procedure several times.
5. Check freeplay by pulling in slowly on the
front brake lever until the brake starts to
engage.
Freeplay: LESS THAN 13/16 in (20 mm)
6. Apply silicone grease to the contacting faces of
the adjuster and piston (3).
The brake pedal height should be approximately
level with the right footpeg.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1) and turn the adjusting
bolt (2) in direction (+) to raise the rear brake
pedal (3) or in direction (–) to lower it.
2. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque at
the desired pedal height:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
Front Brake Lever Adjustment
(1) lock nut (3) piston
(2) adjuster
(1)
(2)
(3)
LESS
THAN
13/16 in
(20 mm)
Rear Brake Pedal Height
(1) lock nut (+) raise the pedal height
(2) adjusting bolt (–) lower the pedal height
(3) rear brake pedal
(3)
(1)
(2)
(+)
(–)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
76 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Front Brake Fluid Level Check
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LWR mark (1). If the level
is at or below the LWR mark, check the brake pads
for wear (page 78).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected
for leaks.
If the brake lever freeplay exceeds 0.8 in (20 mm),
there is probably air in the brake system and it must
be bled. Refer to the Honda Service Manual or see
your dealer for brake bleeding.
Rear Brake Fluid Level Check
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LOWER mark (1). If the
level is at or below the LOWER mark, check the
brake pads for wear (page 78).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected for
leaks.
If the brake pedal freeplay exceeds 1.2 in (30 mm),
there is probably air in the brake system and it must
be bled. Refer to the Honda Service Manual or see
your dealer for brake bleeding.
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks.
Check for deterioration or cracks in the hoses and
fittings.
Fluid Level Inspection
(1) LWR mark
(1)
(1) LOWER mark
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 77
Brakes
Adding Front Brake Fluid
NOTICE
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage painted
surfaces. It is also harmful to some rubber parts.
Be careful whenever you remove the reservoir
cap; make sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not be
compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the front brake reservoir cap screws
(1), reservoir cap (2) and diaphragm (3).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to the
upper level mark (4). Do not overfill.
3. Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the front brake reservoir cap screws to
the specified torque:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
Adding Rear Brake Fluid
NOTICE
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage painted
surfaces. It is also harmful to some rubber parts.
Be careful whenever you remove the reservoir
cap; make sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
• Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not be
compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the rear brake reservoir cap bolts (1),
reservoir cap (2), set plate (3) and diaphragm
(4).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to the
upper level mark (5). Do not overfill.
3. Set the diaphragm as shown.
4. Install the set plate and reservoir cap.
5. Tighten the rear brake reservoir cap bolts to the
specified torque:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks.
Check for deterioration or cracks in the hoses and
fittings.
(1) front brake reservoir cap screws
(2) reservoir cap
(3) diaphragm
(4) upper level mark
(2)
(3)
(1)
(4)
(1) rear brake reservoir cap bolts
(2) reservoir cap
(3) set plate
(4) diaphragm
(5) upper level mark
(2)
(5)
(4)
(3)
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
78 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Brake pad wear depends on the severity of usage
and track conditions. (Generally, the pads will
wear faster on wet and dirty tracks) Inspect the
pads at each regular maintenance interval
(page 21).
Front Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) through the front wheel
to determine the pad wear. If either pad is worn
anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in (1 mm), both
pads must be replaced.
Rear Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) from the rear side of the
caliper to determine the pad wear. If either pad is
worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in (1 mm),
both pads must be replaced.
Check that the brake lever and pedal assemblies
are positioned properly and the securing bolts are
tight.
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
Brake Pad Wear
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) front brake caliper
minimum thickness
indicator
0.04 in
(1 mm)
(1)
(3)
(2)
replace
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) rear brake caliper
Other Inspections
minimum thickness
indicator
0.04 in
(1 mm)
(1)
(2)
(3)
replace
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Wheels
Servicing Your Honda 79
Wheels
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Keeping the wheels true (round) and maintaining
correct spoke tension is critical to safe motorcycle
operation. During the first few rides, spokes will
loosen more rapidly due to the initial seating of the
parts. Excessively loose spokes may result in
instability at high speeds and the possible loss of
control. It’s also important that the rim locks are
secure to prevent tire slippage.
It is not necessary to remove the wheels to perform
the recommended service in the Maintenance
Schedule (page 21). However, information for
wheel removal is provided for emergency
situations.
1. Inspect the wheel rims (1) and spokes (2) for
damage.
2. Tighten, any loose spokes and rim locks (3) to
the specified torque:
Spokes: 2.7 lbf·ft (3.7 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Rim Locks: 9 lbf·ft (12.4 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)
3. Check wheel rim runout. If runout is
noticeable, see the Honda Service Manual for
inspection instructions.
See the Honda Service Manual for inspection
information:
1. Check the axle shaft for runout.
2. Check the condition of the wheel bearings.
Wheel Rims & Spokes
(1) wheel rim (3) rim lock
(2) spoke
(1)
(3)
(2)
Axles & Wheel Bearings
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Tires & Tubes
80 Servicing Your Honda
Tires & Tubes
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
To safely operate your CRF, the tires must be the
proper type (off-road) and size, in good condition
with adequate tread, and correctly inflated.
The following pages give detailed information on
how and when to check your air pressure, how to
inspect your tires for wear and damage, and our
recommendations on tire repair and replacement.
Properly inflated tires provide the best
combination of handling, tread life, and riding
comfort. Generally, underinflated tires wear
unevenly, adversely affect handling, and are more
likely to fail from being overheated.
Underinflated tires can also cause wheel damage
on hard terrain. Overinflated tires make your CRF
ride harshly, are more prone to damage from
surface hazards, and wear unevenly.
Make sure the valve stem caps are secure. If
necessary, install new caps.
Always check air pressure when your tires are
“cold.” If you check air pressure when your tires
are “warm” — even if your CRF has only been
ridden for a few miles — the readings will be
higher. If you let air out of warm tires to match the
recommended cold pressures, the tires will be
underinflated.
The correct “cold” tire pressures are:
If you decide to adjust tire pressures for a
particular riding condition, make changes a little at
a time.
Take time to inspect your tires and wheels before
you ride.
• Inspect carefully for bumps or bulges in the
side of the tire or the tread. Replace any tire
that has a bump or bulge.
• Look closely for cuts, slits, or cracks in the
tires. Replace a tire if you can see fabric or
cord.
• Check for rocks or other objects embedded in
the tire or tread. Remove any objects.
• Check the position of both valve stems. A
tilted valve stem indicates the tube is slipping
inside the tire or the tire is slipping on the rim.
If a tube is punctured or damaged, you should
replace it as soon as possible. A repaired tube may
not have the same reliability as a new one, and it
may fail while you are riding.
Use a replacement tube equivalent to the original.
WARNING
Using tires that are excessively worn or
improperly inflated can cause a crash in
which you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding tire inflation and
maintenance.
Air Pressure
Front 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Inspection
Tube Replacement
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Servicing Your Honda 81
Tires & Tubes
The tires that came on your CRF were designed to
provide a good combination of handling, braking,
durability, and comfort across a broad range of
riding conditions.
CRF150R
CRF150RB
• Use a replacement tire equivalent to the
original.
• Replace the tube any time you replace a tire.
The old tube will probably be stretched and, if
installed in a new tire, could fail.
Tire Replacement
WARNING
Installing improper tires on your
motorcycle can affect handling and
stability. This can cause a crash in which
you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Always use the size and type of tires
recommended in this owner’s manual.
Front
AC
70/100 – 17 40M
DUNLOP MX71F
CM
70/100 – 17 40M
BRIDGESTONE M23
Rear
AC
90/100 – 14 49M
DUNLOP MX71
CM
90/100 – 14 49M
BRIDGESTONE M22
Tire type bias – ply, tube
Front
AC
70/100 – 19 42M
DUNLOP MX71F
CM
70/100 – 19 42M
BRIDGESTONE M61
Rear
AC
90/100 – 16 52M
DUNLOP MX71
CM
90/100 – 16 52M
BRIDGESTONE M58
Tire type bias – ply, tube
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Drive Chain
82 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
The service life of the chain depends on proper
lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance can
cause premature wear or damage to the drive chain
or sprockets.
When the motorcycle is ridden on unusually dusty
or muddy tracks, more frequent maintenance will
be necessary.
Before servicing your drive chain, turn the engine
OFF, raise the rear wheel off the ground by placing
the optional workstand or an equivalent support
under the engine and check that your transmission
is in neutral.
1. Turn the engine off, raise the rear wheel off the
ground by placing an optional workstand or an
equivalent support under the engine and shift
the transmission into neutral.
2. Check the drive chain slack (1) in the upper
drive chain run midway between the drive (2)
and driven sprockets (3). Drive chain slack
should allow the following vertical movement
by hand:
1 3/8 – 1 3/4 in (35 – 45 mm)
3. Check drive chain slack at several points along
the chain. The slack should remain constant. If
it isn’t, some links may be kinked and binding.
Lubricating the chain will often eliminate
binding and kinking.
NOTICE
Excessive chain slack may allow the drive chain to
damage the engine cases.
4. Inspect the drive chain for:
• damaged rollers
• loose pins
• dry or rusted links
• kinked or binding links
• excessive wear
Replace the drive chain (page 84) if it has damaged
rollers, loose pins, or kinks that cannot be free.
Lubricate the drive chain (page 83) if it appears dry
or shows signs of rust. Lubricate any kinked or
binding links and work them free.
Adjust chain slack if needed (page 83).
1. Check the chain slider (1) for wear.
If the wear is 0.2 in (5 mm) or more, replace it.
2. Check the chain guide slider (2) for wear.
Replace the chain guide slider if the chain is
visible through the wear inspection window
(3).
Inspection
(1) drive chain slack (3) driven sprocket
(2) drive sprocket
(2)
(1)
(3)
Drive Chain Sliders
(1) chain slider
(2) chain guide slider
(3) wear inspection window
(1)
(2)
(3)
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Servicing Your Honda 83
Drive Chain
1. Check the drive chain roller (1) for wear or
damage.
2. Measure the outer diameter of the drive chain
roller and replace it if below the service limit.
Service Limit: 0.7 in (18 mm)
Replace the roller if necessary as follows.
Remove the bolt (2), washers (3), collar (4) and
drive chain roller.
Install a new drive chain roller, collar, washers and
tighten the bolt.
1. Loosen the rear axle nut (1).
2. Loosen both chain adjuster lock nuts (2) and
turn the adjusting bolts (3) counterclockwise to
decrease slack or clockwise to increase slack.
Align the index marks (4) of the axle plates (5)
with the same reference marks (6) on both
sides of the swingarm.
3. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified
torque:
65 lbf·ft (88 N·m, 9.0 kgf·m)
4. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
5. Turn the adjusting bolts counterclockwise until
it touches the axle plates lightly. Then tighten
the chain adjuster lock nut to the specified
torque while holding the adjusting bolt with a
wrench:
20 lbf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m)
Commercially prepared drive chain lubricants may
be purchased at most motorcycle shops and should
be used in preference to motor oil. Pro Honda HP
Chain Lube or an equivalent is recommended.
Saturate each chain joint so that the lubricant
penetrates the space between adjacent surfaces of
the link plates and rollers.
Drive Chain Rollers
(1) drive chain roller (3) washers
(2) bolt (4) collar
(1)
(2)
(1)
(4)
(3)
Adjustment
(1) rear axle nut (4) index mark
(2) chain adjuster lock nut (5) axle plate
(3) adjusting bolt (6) reference mark
(2)
(3)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(6)
Lubrication
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84 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
For maximum service life, the drive chain should
be cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted before each
outing.
1. Remove the master link retaining clip (1) with
pliers. Do not bend or twist the clip.
Remove the master link (2). Remove the drive
chain.
2. Clean the drive chain in high flash-point
solvent and allow it to dry.
3. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or
damage. Replace the drive chain if it has
damaged rollers, loose fitting links, or
otherwise appears unserviceable.
Replacement chain:
4. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear or damage.
We recommend replacing the sprocket
whenever a new chain is installed.
Both chain and sprockets must be in good
condition, or the new replacement chain or
sprocket(s) will wear rapidly.
Excessively worn sprocket teeth have a
hooked, worn appearance. Replace any
sprocket which is damaged or excessively
worn.
NOTICE
Use of a new chain with worn sprockets will cause
rapid chain wear.
5. Measure a section of the drive chain to
determine whether the chain is worn beyond its
service limit. Put the transmission in gear, and
then turn the rear wheel forward until the lower
section of the chain is pulled taut. With the
chain held taut and any kinked joints
straightened, measure the distance between a
span of 21 pins, from pin center to pin center.
If the measurement exceeds the service limit,
replace the chain. After the chain is measured,
shift the transmission into neutral again before
proceeding with inspection and service.
6. Lubricate the drive chain (page 83).
7. Pass the chain over the sprockets and join the
ends of the chain with the master link. For ease
of assembly, hold the chain ends against
adjacent rear sprocket teeth while inserting the
master link. Install the master link retaining
clip so that the closed end of the clip will face
the direction of forward wheel rotation.
8. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
• The master link is the most critical element of
drive chain security. Master links are reusable,
as long as they remain in excellent condition.
We recommend installing a new master link
retaining clip when the drive chain is
reassembled.
• You may find it easier to install a new chain by
connecting it to the old chain with a master link
and pulling the old chain to position the new
chain on the sprockets.
Removal, Cleaning & Replacement
(1) master link retaining clip (2) master link
Size/link
CRF150R DID420DS3/120
CRF150RB DID420DS3/126
(2)
(1)
More About Drive Chain
MEASURE A SPAN OF 21 PINS (20 PITCHES)
Service limit: 10.20 in (259.0 mm)
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Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Servicing Your Honda 85
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Check the mounting bolts and joint nuts for
tightness.
Check the exhaust pipe and muffler for cracks or
deformation.
A damaged exhaust pipe and muffler may reduce
engine performance.
1. Remove the seat mounting bolt (1), side cover
bolt (2) and right side cover (3).
2. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt (4).
3. Remove the muffler (5) by removing the
muffler mounting bolts (6) and washer (7).
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Inspection
Muffler Removal
(1) seat mounting bolt (3) right side cover
(2) side cover bolt
(1)
(3)
(2)
(4) muffler clamp bolt
(5) muffler
(6) muffler mounting bolts
(7) washer
(5)
(7)
(4)
(6)
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86 Servicing Your Honda
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
1. Remove the old gasket.
2. Install the muffler clamp (1) by aligning the tab
(2) of the muffler clamp with the cut-out (3) of
the muffler (4).
3. Install a new gasket (5) to the exhaust pipe (6).
4. Install the muffler (7) to the exhaust pipe.
5. Install the muffler mounting bolts (8) and
washer (9).
6. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt (10) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
7. Tighten the muffler mounting bolts (8) to the
specified torque:
24 lbf·ft (32 N·m, 3.3 kgf·m)
8. Install the right side cover (11) and side cover
bolt (12).
9. Install the seat mounting bolt (13) and tighten
to the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
Muffler Installation
(1) muffler clamp (3) cut-out
(2) tab (4) muffler
(5) gasket (new) (7) muffler
(6) exhaust pipe
(4)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(7)
(6)
(5)
(8) muffler mounting bolts
(9) washer
(10) muffler clamp bolt
(9)
(10)
(8)
(11) right side cover (13) seat mounting bolt
(12) side cover bolt
(12)
(13)
(11)
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Servicing Your Honda 87
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
1. Remove the muffler (page 85).
2. Remove the exhaust pipe joint nuts (1),
exhaust pipe (2) and old gasket (3).
1. Install a new exhaust pipe gasket (1) as shown.
2. Install the exhaust pipe (2) and exhaust pipe
joint nuts (3).
3. Install the muffler (page 86) but do not tighten
the bolts yet.
4. Tighten the exhaust pipe joint nuts to the
specified torque:
8 lbf·ft (11 N·m, 1.1 kgf·m)
5. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt and muffler
mounting bolts (page 86).
6. Installation can be done in the reverse order of
removal.
Exhaust Pipe Removal
(1) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) gasket (old)
(1)
(3)
(2)
Exhaust Pipe Installation
(1) exhaust pipe gasket (new)
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(1)
(3)
(2)
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Additional Maintenance Procedures
88 Servicing Your Honda
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
1. With your CRF on a box or optional workstand
(front wheel elevated), turn the handlebar to
the right and left to check for roughness in the
steering head bearings.
2. Stand in front of your CRF, grab the fork (at
the axle), look at the steering head, and push
the fork in and out (toward the engine) to check
for play in the steering head bearings.
If any roughness or play is felt, but you do not
see any movement in the steering head, the
fork bushings may be worn. Refer to the
Honda Service Manual for replacement or
adjustment procedures, or see your dealer.
1. Check the handlebar (1) for bends or cracks.
2. Check that the handlebar has not moved from
its proper position (by inspecting the punch
mark (2)).
3. Check the torque of the handlebar upper holder
bolts (3):
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Tighten the front bolts first.
Periodically, disconnect the throttle, clutch and hot
start cables at their upper ends. Thoroughly
lubricate the cable pivot points with a
commercially-available cable lubricant. If the
clutch lever, hot start lever and throttle operation is
not smooth, replace the cable.
Be sure the throttle returns freely from fully open
to fully closed automatically, in all steering
positions.
Steering Head Bearings Inspection
Handlebar Inspection
(1) handlebar (3) handlebar upper holder bolts
(2) punch mark
Control Cables
(1)
(2)
(3)
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Servicing Your Honda 89
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before
every outing.
RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
ENGINE
Item
Torque
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
1 Cylinder head cover
bolts 7 10 1.0
2 Exhaust pipe joint nuts 8 11 1.1
3 Coolant drain bolt 7 10 1.0
4 Crankshaft hole cap 11 15 1.5
5 Transmission oil check
bolt 7 10 1.0
6 Cylinder bolt 7 10 1.0
7 Oil filter cover bolts 7 10 1.0
8 Cylinder head bolts 7 10 1.0
9 Drive sprocket bolt 10 13 1.3
10 Transmission oil drain
bolt 16 22 2.2
11 Engine oil drain bolt 16 22 2.2
(1) cylinder head cover bolts
(2) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(3) coolant drain bolt
(4) crankshaft hole cap
(5) transmission oil check bolt
(5)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(6) cylinder bolt
(7) oil filter cover bolts
(8) cylinder head bolts
(9) drive sprocket bolt
(10) transmission oil drain bolt
(11) engine oil drain bolt
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(11) (10)
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Appearance Care
90 Servicing Your Honda
Appearance Care
Refer to Safety Precautions on page19.
Frequent cleaning and polishing will keep your
Honda looking newer longer. Frequent cleaning
also identifies you as an owner who values his
motorcycle. A clean CRF is also easier to inspect
and service.
While you’re cleaning, be sure to look for damage,
wear, and gasoline or oil leaks.
• To clean your CRF you may use:
–water
– Hondabrite
– a mild, neutral detergent and water
– a mild spray and wipe cleaner/polisher
– a mild spray and rinse cleaner/degreaser and
water
• Avoid products that contain harsh detergents
or chemical solvents that could damage the
metal, paint, and plastic on your CRF or
discolor the seat and decals.
• If your CRF is still warm from recent
operation, give the engine and exhaust system
time to cool off.
• We recommend the use of a low pressure
garden hose to wash your CRF. High pressure
washers, (like those at coin-operated car
washes) can damage certain parts of your CRF.
The force of water under extreme pressure can
penetrate the dust seals of the suspension pivot
points and steering head bearings-driving dirt
inside and needed lubrication out.
If you use a high pressure washer, avoid spraying
the following areas:
wheel hubs
muffler outlet
under seat
engine stop button
brake master cylinders
under fuel tank
drive chain
carburetor
steering head bearings
suspension pivot points
NOTICE
High pressure water (or air) can damage certain
parts of your CRF.
You may use Pro Honda Hondabrite, a multi-
surface cleaner/degreaser, to remove both dirt and
petroleum-based grime from paint, alloy, plastic,
and rubber surfaces. Wet any heavy deposits with
water first. Then spray on Pro Honda Hondabrite
and rinse with a low pressure garden hose.
Stubborn deposits may require a quick wipe with a
sponge.
1. Rinse your CRF thoroughly with cool water to
remove loose dirt.
2. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild,
neutral detergent, such as dish washing liquid
or a product made especially for washing
motorcycles or automobiles.
3. Wash your CRF with a sponge or a soft towel.
As you wash, check for heavy grime. If
necessary, use a mild cleaner/degreaser to
remove the grime.
NOTICE
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it could
damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch-Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) should only be used for removing
stains on the non-coated aluminum frame only.
4. After washing, rinse your CRF thoroughly
with plenty of clean water to remove any
residue.
5. Dry your CRF with a chamois or a soft towel.
6. Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
7. Start the engine and let it idle for several
minutes. The engine heat will help dry moist
areas.
8. As a precaution, ride at a slow speed and apply
the brakes several times. This will help dry the
brakes and restore normal braking
performance.
General Recommendations
(1) steering head bearings
(2) suspension pivot points
(1)
(2)
Washing Your Motorcycle with a Mild
Detergent
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Servicing Your Honda 91
Appearance Care
Some condensation can form within the
transmission cavity as well. This is natural and just
one more reason you should change the engine and
transmission oil often.
There are some things you should do just after
washing your CRF to help prevent rust and
corrosion.
Once your CRF is clean and dry, you should
protect any bare steel from rusting by applying a
light coating of a rust-inhibitor. Lubricate the drive
chain and drive sprocket after removing and
thoroughly cleaning in solvent. Be sure the chain is
wiped clean and is dry before applying the chain
lube.
Follow the suggestions given in the pages of this
manual for lubricating items such as the brake and
clutch lever pivot points and footpeg pivot pins.
The exhaust pipe and muffler are stainless steel but
may become stained by mud or dust.
To remove mud or dust, use a wet sponge and a
liquid kitchen abrasive, then rinse well with clean
water. Dry with a chamois or a soft towel.
If necessary, remove heat stains by using a
commercially available fine texture compound.
Then rinse by the same manner as removing mud
or dust.
Condensation Control
After Cleaning Lubrication
Exhaust Pipe And Muffler Maintenance
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92 Servicing Your Honda
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BLANK PAGE
Adjustments for Competition
Adjustments for Competition 93
Adjustments for Competition
This section tells you how to fine tune your CRF
for maximum competition performance.
Initial suspension adjustments should be
performed after a minimum of 2 hours of easy
break-in time.
Optional front and rear suspension springs are
available in both stiffer and softer than standard
rates, in order to tailor your CRF specifically for
your weight, riding style and course conditions.
Follow the instructions given in the rear
suspension sag setting section of Rear Suspension
Adjustments to determine if your combined rider
and sprung machine weight (rider fully dressed for
competition and machine coolant, oil and fuel
levels ready for competition) requires an optional
stiffer or softer rear spring.
The need for either optional rear spring may need
to be balanced by installing the optional fork
springs of a similar rate.
Front Suspension Adjustments ........................94
Front Suspension Air Pressure.....................94
Front Suspension Oil Level .........................94
Front Suspension Damping........................100
Fork Springs...............................................101
Rear Suspension Adjustments........................102
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load .............102
Rear Suspension Damping.........................103
Rear Suspension Race Sag.........................104
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions ......................................................106
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines ...............107
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips ........110
Carburetor Components.............................110
Carburetor Circuit Functions .....................112
Carburetor Removal...................................112
Carburetor Disassembly/Assembly............114
Standard Tuning Recommendations..........117
Adjustments for Altitude & Temperature..117
Optional Muffler Settings ..........................118
Special Tuning Conditions.........................119
Pre-Adjustment Checks .............................119
Carburetor Minor Adjustments..................120
Spark Plug Reading ...................................122
Chassis Adjustments ......................................123
Rear End ....................................................123
Fork Height/Angle .....................................123
Wheelbase..................................................123
Gearing...........................................................124
Tire Selection for Track Conditions ..............125
Personal Fit Adjustments ...............................126
Control Positioning ....................................126
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape..........126
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Front Suspension Adjustments
94 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
The front suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s
weight and riding conditions by using one or more
of the following methods:
• Oil volume — The effects of higher or
lower fork oil level are only felt during the
final 3.9 in (100 mm) of fork travel.
• Compression damping — Turning the
compression damping screw adjusts how
quickly the fork compresses.
• Rebound damping — Turning the rebound
damping screw adjusts how quickly the fork
extends.
• Fork springs — Optional springs are
available in softer and stiffer types than the
standard rate (page 144).
Air is an unstable gas which builds up pressure as
it is worked (such as in a fork). Air pressure acts as
a progressive spring and affects the entire range of
fork travel. This means the fork action on your
CRF will get stiffer during a race. For this reason,
release built-up air pressure in the fork legs
between motos. Be sure the fork is fully extended
with the front tire off the ground when you release
the pressure.
The standard air pressure is 0 psi (0 kPa,
0 kgf/cm
2
). You may relieve
accumulated air pressure in the fork legs
by using the fork air pressure release
screws. The front wheel should be off the
ground before you release the pressure.
The air pressure should be adjusted according to
the altitude and outside temperature.
1. Place an optional workstand under the engine,
so that the front wheel is off the ground.
Do not adjust air pressure with the front wheel
on the ground as this will give false pressure
readings.
2. Remove the fork air pressure release screw (1).
3. Check that the O-ring (2) is in good condition.
4. Install and tighten the fork air pressure release
screw to the specified torque:
1.0 lbf·ft (1.3 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
• If your CRF is brand-new, put enough part-
throttle break-in time (about 1 hour) on it to
ensure that the suspension has worked in.
• For optimum performance, and extended fork
life, the fork should be completely
disassembled and cleaned after the first 3 hours
of riding. See the Service Manual or your
dealer for this service.
1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or an
equivalent support with the front wheel off the
ground.
2. Loosen the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (1)
(before loosening the fork caps to avoid
damaging the fork caps).
3. Loosen the fork caps (2), but do not remove
them yet.
NOTICE
Using an adjustable wrench to loosen the fork
caps may damage them.
Front Suspension Air Pressure
(1) fork air pressure release
screw
(2) O-ring
(2)
(1)
Front Suspension Oil Level
(1) fork bridge upper pinch bolt (2) fork cap
(2)
(1)
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Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 95
4. Remove the front axle nut (3).
5. Pull the front axle shaft (4) out of the wheel
hub and remove the front wheel.
6. Remove the fork protectors (5) and brake
caliper (6).
• Do not support the brake caliper by the brake
hose.
• Do not operate the brake lever after the front
wheel is removed. To do so will cause
difficulty in fitting the brake disc between the
brake pads.
7. Loosen the fork bridge lower pinch bolts (7),
then pull the fork legs down and out.
8. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding
surface of the slider pipe (8) and dust seal (9).
NOTICE
The fork tube (10) can drop on the slider and
damage the fork dust seal and guide bushing (11)
when the fork cap is removed. To avoid damage
hold both the fork tube and slider pipe when
removing the fork cap.
9. Record the rebound damping adjuster position
and turn the adjuster screw (12)
counterclockwise until it stops.
10. Hold the fork tube (10), then remove the fork
cap (2), from the fork tube. Gently slide the
fork tube down onto the lower end of the slider
pipe (13).
NOTICE
When removing the fork cap, be careful not to
damage the damping force adjuster needle rod
(14) and the needle on the rod end.
11. Remove the fork cap (2) from the piston rod
(15) by holding the lock nut (16).
12. Remove the fork spring (17).
(3) front axle nut (4) front axle shaft
(5) fork protectors (6) brake caliper
(3)
(4)
(6)
(5)
(7) fork bridge lower pinch bolts
(8) slider pipe (10) fork tube
(9) dust seal (11) guide bushing
(7)
(9)
(8)
(11)
(10)
(2) fork cap (12) adjuster screw
(10) fork tube (13) slider pipe, lower end
(2) fork cap (16) lock nut
(14) adjuster needle rod (17) fork spring
(15) piston rod
(12)
(10)
(2)
(10)
(13)
(2)
(16)
(15)
(14)
(17)
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96 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
13. Pour the recommended fork oil into the piston
rod (15) until a little oil flows out of the top of
the piston rod. Leave the piston rod for about
one minute.
14. With the fork held upright, measure the oil
level (18) from the top of the fork tube to the
fork oil.
15. Adjust the oil level by adding or removing oil
with an aftermarket syringe (19).
Fork Oil Level (CRF150R)
Standard 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Softer 17.9 lbf/in (3.14 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
(15) piston rod (18) oil level
(19) syringe
(18)
(15)
(19)
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
4.88 in
124.0 mm
12.04 US oz
(356.0 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
4.83 in
122.8 mm
12.07 US oz
(357.0 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.43 in
188.7 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.02 in
127.5 mm
11.95 US oz
(353.2 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.61 in
193.4 mm
10.14 US oz
(299.9 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 coil at both ends
(factory products)
2 coils at one end;
1 coil at other end
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
128.1 mm
11.93 US oz
(352.7 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.64 in
194.1 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 scribe mark
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Front Suspension Adjustments
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 97
Fork Oil Level (CRF150RB)
Standard 20.2 lbf/in (3.53 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Softer 19.0 lbf/in (3.33 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Stiffer 21.3 lbf/in (3.73 N/mm) Fork Spring
• Be sure the oil level is the same in both fork
legs.
• Always use the after market syringe while
adjusting the oil level.
If it isn’t used, air may get into the fork.
• If a syringe is not available, first set the oil
level somewhat lower than the normal level,
then add small amounts of oil until the correct
level is obtained, measuring the level each time
oil is added.
16. Inspect both ends of the fork spring. If you find
any roughness or burred edge on the end of
either spring, smooth the roughness with a file
and some emery cloth.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.55 in
141.0 mm
11.57 US oz
(342.0 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.16 in
131.0 mm
11.84 US oz
(350.1 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.63 in
193.7 mm
10.13 US oz
(299.4 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.34 in
135.7 mm
11.71 US oz
(346.3 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
4.95 in
125.7 mm
11.99 US oz
(354.4 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.42 in
188.4 mm
10.27 US oz
(303.7 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
1 scribe mark
(factory products)
1 coil at both ends
Standard oil
level
[capacity]
5.43 in
137.9 mm
11.65 US oz
(344.5 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
level
[capacity]
5.04 in
127.9 mm
11.92 US oz
(352.6 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
level
[capacity]
7.50 in
190.6 mm
10.21 US oz
(301.9 cm
3
)
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
2 scribe mark
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
98 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
17. Clean the spring and spring seat thoroughly
with a high flash point solvent to remove all
metal particles and dirt.
18. Dry the spring and spring seat with air pressure
rather than a shop towel. Using a shop towel
allows lint to stick to the springs. Lint or any
particles that stick in the damping passages can
cause inconsistent damping.
19. Turn the adjuster needle rod (14)
counterclockwise and remove it from the fork
cap (2).
Check the adjuster needle rod for bent or
damage.
Check that the O-rings (20) on the fork cap and
needle rod are in good condition. Apply the
recommended fork oil to the O-rings.
20. Loosen the lock nut (16) slightly.
21. Attach a two-foot length of mechanic’s wire
(21) to the threaded portion on the lock nut.
Wrap the wire securely around the threads.
22. Install the fork spring (17) as follows:
– With the fork spring held upright on its
marked end, feed the mechanic’s wire up
through the spring.
– Angle the fork spring and slowly slide it
down into the fork using a gentle rocking
motion.
23. Reaching through the two adjacent coils near
the oil lock valve, hold the spring guide (22)
with your finger.
Remove the mechanic’s wire and hand tighten
the lock nut (16) to the spring guide (22).
24. Set the adjuster screw (12) to 0.06 in (1.5mm)
from the fork cap (2) top, then install the fork
cap onto the piston rod.
NOTICE
When installing the fork cap, be careful not to
damage the damping force adjuster needle rod
and the needle or the rod end.
25. Hand tighten the fork cap (2) on the piston rod
(15) lightly until it stops, then tighten the lock
nut (16) to the fork cap to the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (19.7 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
26. Temporarily thread the fork cap into the fork
tube.
27. Insert both fork legs into the fork clamps
(2) fork cap (20) O-rings
(14) adjuster needle rod
(16) lock nut (21) mechanic’s wire
(2)
(20)
(14)
(21)
(16)
(16) lock nut (22) spring guide
(17) fork spring
(2) fork cap (12) adjuster screw
(22)
(16)
(17)
(12)
(2)
0.06 in
(1.5 mm)
(2) fork cap (16) lock nut
(15) piston rod
(15)
(16)
(2)
(16)
(2)
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Adjustments for Competition 99
Front Suspension Adjustments
28. Align the groove (23) in the fork tube (10) with
the top surface of the upper fork clamps (24).
29. Temporarily tighten the fork bridge lower
pinch bolts (7) and then tighten the fork cap (2)
to the specified torque:
25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
30. For ease of releasing air pressure after the forks
are installed, loosen the fork bridge lower
pinch bolts and position the fork outer tubes so
that the fork air pressure release screws are in
front of the rebound damping adjusters.
31. Tighten the fork bridge lower pinch bolts to the
specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
32. Tighten the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (1) to
the specified torque:
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Over-tightening the pinch bolts can deform the
fork tubes. Deformed fork tubes must be replaced.
33. Clean the threads of the fork protector bolts
and axle holder thoroughly.
34. Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
35. Install the fork protectors (5) and tighten the
bolts to the specified torque:
5.2 lbf·ft (7 N·m, 0.7 kgf·m)
36. Clean the surfaces where the front axle shaft
and axle clamps contact each other.
37. Install the left and right side collars into the
wheel hub.
38. Insert the front axle shaft (4) through the wheel
hub from the right side. Make sure the axle
shaft is seated firmly onto the left fork leg
clamp inner surface.
39. Install the front axle nut (3).
40. Align the brake caliper (6) with the left fork
leg, making sure that the brake hose is not
twisted. An improperly routed brake hose may
rupture and cause a loss of braking efficiency.
41. Clean the threads of the brake caliper
mounting bolts (25) and brake caliper
thoroughly.
42. Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
43. Install the brake caliper on the fork slider and
tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to the
specified torque:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
NOTICE
Fit the brake caliper over the disc, taking care not
to damage the brake pads.
(1) fork bridge upper pinch bolt (10) fork tube
(2) fork cap (23) groove
(7) fork bridge lower pinch bolts (24) upper fork clamp
(7)
(2)
(1)
(10)
(24)
(23)
(5) fork protectors
(5)
(3) front axle nut (6) brake caliper
(4) front axle shaft (25) brake caliper mounting
bolts
(4)
(25)
(3)
(6)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
100 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
44. With the front brake applied, pump the fork up
and down several times to seat the axle and
check front brake operation.
45. Tighten the front axle nut (3) to the specified
torque:
51 lbf·ft (69 N·m, 7.0 kgf·m)
46. Turn the rebound damping adjuster screws
back to their original settings.
Compression Damping
Compression damping affects how quickly the
fork compresses.
The compression damping adjuster has 6 1/4 turns
or less.
Always start with the full hard position when
adjusting damping.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the compression damping adjuster (1)
clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly
seats). This is the full hard position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 1/4 turn.
This is the standard position.
3. Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to
the same position.
Rebound Damping
Rebound damping effects how quickly the fork
rebounds.
The rebound damping adjuster has 3 turns or less.
Always start with the full hard position when
adjusting damping.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the rebound damping adjuster (1)
clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly
seats). This is the full hard position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 1/4 turn.
This is the standard position.
3. Make sure both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
(3) front axle nut
(3)
Front Suspension Damping
(1) compression damping adjuster
(1)
(1) rebound damping adjuster
(1)
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Adjustments for Competition 101
Front Suspension Adjustments
If the fork is too hard on big bumps, turn the
damping adjuster counterclockwise 1/4 turn and
lower the oil level in increments of 0.2 in (5 mm)
in both fork legs until the desired performance is
obtained. Do not, however, lower the oil level
below the minimum oil level.
When adjusting oil levels, bear in mind that the air
in the fork will increase in pressure while riding;
therefore, the higher the oil level, the higher the
eventual pressure of any air in the fork.
Fork Springs
Minimum oil level: (CRF150R)
Standard Spring: 7.43 in (188.7 mm)
Softer Spring: 7.61 in (193.4 mm)
Stiffer Spring: 7.64 in (194.1 mm)
Minimum oil level: (CRF150RB)
Standard Spring: 7.63 in (193.7 mm)
Softer Spring: 7.42 in (188.4 mm)
Stiffer Spring: 7.50 in (190.6 mm)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Rear Suspension Adjustments
102 Adjustments for Competition
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
The rear suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s
weight and riding conditions by changing the
spring pre-load and the rebound and compression
damping.
The rear shock absorber assembly includes a
damper unit that contains high pressure nitrogen
gas. Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or
dispose of the damper; see your dealer.
The instructions found in this owner’s manual are
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only.
Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in an
explosion, causing serious injury.
Service or disposal should only be done by your
authorized dealer or a qualified mechanic,
equipped with the proper tools, safety equipment
and the official Honda Service Manual.
If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle break-
in time (about 1 hour) on it to ensure that the
suspension has worked in.
An optional pin spanner is available for turning the
lock nut and adjusting nut to adjust spring pre-
load.
1. Place an optional workstand under the engine
to raise the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Remove the subframe. See page 32.
3. Check that the spring pre-load is adjusted to
the standard length. Adjust as necessary by
loosening the lock nut (1) and turning the
adjusting nut (2).
Each complete turn of the adjuster nut changes
the spring length by 0.06 in (1.5 mm).
4. After adjustment, hold the adjusting nut and
tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
To increase spring pre-load:
Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin spanners
(3) and turn the adjusting nut to shorten the spring
length (4). Do not shorten to less than:
8.7 in (222 mm).............................CRF150R
8.9 in (226 mm).......................... CRF150RB
To decrease spring pre-load:
Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin spanners
(3) and turn the adjusting nut to increase the spring
length (4). Do not increase to more than:
9.27 in (235.5 mm)........................CRF150R
9.25 in (235.0 mm)..................... CRF150RB
Each turn of the adjuster changes spring length and
spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring length/
spring pre-load:
0.06 in (1.5 mm)/16.5 lbf (7.5 kgf) ....... CRF150R
0.06 in (1.5 mm)/17.2 lbf (7.8 kgf) .....CRF150RB
Pin spanners should be used for turning the lock
nut and adjusting nut.
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load
(1) lock nut (3) pin spanners
(2) adjusting nut (4) spring length
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(CRF150R)
Spring preload length (Standard spring)
Standard: 9.23 in (234.5 mm)
Min. : 8.7 in (222 mm)
Spring preload length (Optional spring)
Min. (Softer, 268.4 lbf/in (47.0 N/mm)):
8.8 in (223 mm)
Min. (Stiffer, 291.2 lbf/in (51.0 N/mm)):
8.9 in (226 mm)
(CRF150RB)
Spring preload length (Standard spring)
Standard: 9.21 in (234.0 mm)
Min. : 8.9 in (226 mm)
Spring preload length (Optional spring)
Min. (Softer, 279.8 lbf/in (49.0 N/mm)):
8.7 in (222 mm)
Min. (Stiffer, 302.6 lbf/in (53.0 N/mm)):
8.7 in (221 mm)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 103
Compression Damping
Compression damping can be adjusted with the
adjuster located on the rear shock absorber's
reservoir.
The compression damping adjuster has 3 turns or
less.
To increase damping, turn the adjuster screw
clockwise.
To decrease damping, turn the screw
counterclockwise.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the compression damping adjuster (1)
clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly
seats). This is the full hard position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 – 1 1/4
turns, and make sure that the punch mark (2)
on the adjuster aligns with the reference mark
(3) on the shock absorber.
Rebound Damping
The rebound damping adjuster (1) is located at the
lower end of the shock absorber.
The rebound damping adjuster has 3 turns or less.
To increase damping, turn the adjuster screw
clockwise.
To decrease damping, turn the adjuster screw
counterclockwise.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard
position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 3/8 – 5/8
turns, and make sure that the punch mark (2)
on the adjuster aligns with the reference mark
(3) on the shock absorber.
Rear Suspension Damping
(1) compression damping adjuster (3) reference mark
(2) punch mark
(1)
(3)
(2)
(1) rebound damping adjuster (3) reference mark
(2) punch mark
(1)
(2)
(3)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Rear Suspension Adjustments
104 Adjustments for Competition
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very
important for competition use.
Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel travel
used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride, with you
on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, the race sag
dimension should be about one-third of the
maximum travel.
On your CRF, ride height is changed by adjusting
the rear suspension spring pre-load.
Spring Pre-load & Race Sag Adjustment
The following adjustment procedure establishes
the correct starting point for any suspension tuning
— the proper rear spring pre-load adjustment for
your specific needs.
Your CRF should be at normal racing weight,
including fuel and transmission oil. You should be
wearing all your normal protective apparel.
You will need two helpers.
To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary
to measure between two fixed points — from the
center of the rear fender mounting bolt to the
center of the chain adjuster lock nut as illustrated
here — for three different situations:
unloaded: motorcycle on an optional workstand
with rear suspension fully extended, no rider.
loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with
rider.
loaded without rider: motorcycle on ground,
without rider
1. Support your CRF on an optional workstand
with the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Measure the unloaded dimension.
3. Measure the loaded with rider dimension.
Remove the workstand. With two helpers
available, sit as far forward as possible on your
CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel. Ask
one helper to steady your CRF perfectly
upright so you can put both feet on the pegs.
Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of
times to help the suspension overcome any
situation and settle to a good reference point.
Ask the other helper to measure the loaded
with rider dimension.
Example:
4. Calculate the race sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the loaded with rider
dimension (step 3) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Standard Race Sag: 3.3 in (85 mm)
Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain
the desired handling results.
Decreasing the race sag dimension (example:
3.5 in, 90 mm) improves turning ability for
tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced
straight line stability.
Increasing the race sag dimension (example:
3.9 in, 100 mm) may improve stability on
faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce
turning performance slightly and may upset the
balance between the front and rear suspension,
producing a harsher ride. This will happen if
the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel
toward the more progressive end of its range.
5. Measure the loaded without rider dimension.
Do this with your CRF set at the standard race
sag.
Example:
Rear Suspension Race Sag
Unloaded = 23.4 in (595 mm)
– Loaded = 20.1 in (510 mm)
Race Sag = 3.3 in (85 mm)
UNLOADED MEASUREMENT
(without rider)
EXAMPLE: 23.4 in (595 mm)
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
LOADED MEASUREMENT
(on ground, with rider)
EXAMPLE: 20.1 in (510 mm)
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
Unloaded = 23.4 in (595 mm)
– Loaded = 22.8 in (580 mm)
Sag = 0.6 in (15 mm)
(Without Rider)
LOADED MEASUREMENT
(on ground without rider)
EXAMPLE: 22.8 in (580 mm)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 105
6. Calculate the free sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the loaded without rider
dimension (step 5) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Free sag indicates the distance your rear
suspension should sag from the weight of the
sprung portion of your CRF.
With the spring pre-load set to obtain the
proper race sag, the rear suspension should
sag: 0.4 to 1.0 in (10 to 25 mm)
If the rear of your CRF sags less than 0.4 in (10
mm) from its own weight, the spring is too stiff
for your weight. It is not compressed enough,
even though you have the proper race sag
adjustment. As a result, the rear suspension
will not extend as far as it should.
Spring Rates
If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider
and cannot set the proper ride height without
altering the correct spring pre-load, consider an
aftermarket shock absorber spring.
A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you
to add excessive spring pre-load to get the right
race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the
motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear wheel
to unload too much in the air and top out as travel
rebounds. The rear end may top out from light
braking, or kick sideways over lips and square-
edged terrain. It may even top-out when you
dismount your CRF.
Because of the great absorption quality of the
shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to
notice when your CRF’s suspension is bottoming.
Some riders may think the damping or perhaps the
leverage ratio is too harsh. In reality, the problem
is most likely insufficient spring pre-load or a
spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents
utilizing the full travel.
Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension
system may bottom slightly every few minutes at
full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this
occasional bottoming may cost more in overall
suspension performance than it is worth.
A spring that is too stiff for your weight will not
allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration
and will pass more bumps on to you.
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions
106 Adjustments for Competition
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions
Soft Surface
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider
increasing compression damping front and rear.
Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to
minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps are
usually larger, there’s more distance between
them, giving the shock more time to recover.
You may want a little bit stiffer front suspension
for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and
improve straight-line stability.
In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs front
and rear may help, especially if you are heavier
than the average rider. Your CRF may be
undersprung because of the added weight of the
clinging mud. This additional weight may
compress the suspension too much and affect
traction.
Hard Surface
For a fast, hard track with no large jumps, you can
probably run the same spring as normal, but run
softer damping both ways-compression and
rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the
wheel will follow the rough ground and small
bumps much better, and you will hook up better.
With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns
very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground quickly
enough after each bump. The result is a loss of
traction and slower lap times.
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Adjustments for Competition 107
Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF, using the methods described on pages 94 – 103. Remember to make all adjustments in 1/4
turn increments. Test ride after each adjustment.
Front Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Sand track Adjust to a stiffer position.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer position.
– Install the optional stiff spring. (Adjust compression damping to a softer position and rebound damping to a stiffer position at
this time.)
Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Damping
Symptom Action
Soft suspension Initial travel too soft:
• Steering is too quick.
• Front end darts while cornering or riding in a straight line.
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Test stiffer rebound damping in 1/4 turn increments.
Middle travel too soft:
• Front end dives when cornering.
If suspension isn’t stiff in initial travel:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
If initial travel becomes stiff because of the above adjustment:
– Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 turn increments.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring.
Final travel too soft:
• Bottoms on landings.
• Bottoms on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
If initial and middle travel are stiff:
– Install the optional stiff spring.
If initial travel is stiff after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test soft compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
If initial travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
If final travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Increase the fork oil level in increments of 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Entire travel too soft:
• Front end shakes.
• Fork bottoms over any type of terrain.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Increase rebound damping in 1/4 turn increments.
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Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
108 Adjustments for Competition
Symptom Action
Stiff suspension Initial travel too stiff:
• Stiff on small bumps while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
• Stiff on small cornering bumps.
• Front end wanders while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Check for dirt in the dust seals. Check the fork oil for any contamination.
If the front end dives while cornering after the above adjustment:
Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 turn increments. If that doesn’t solve the
problem, install the optional stiff spring.
If the stiff spring makes the suspension too stiff over the full range of travel: test
softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments until the desired
compression damping for initial travel is obtained.
Middle travel too stiff:
• Stiff on bumps when cornering.
• Front end wanders when cornering.
• Stiff suspension on bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• While braking, front end dives during initial travel, then feels stiff.
If initial travel isn’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments. (This should
produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If initial and middle travel is stiff:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 turn increments.
Final travel too stiff:
• Doesn’t bottom on landings, but feels stiff.
• Stiff on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• Stiff on large bumps when cornering.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments. (This should
produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If final travel is still stiff after the above adjustment, or
If initial and middle travel becomes stiff:
– Install the optional soft spring.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
If the entire travel feels stiff after the above adjustment:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments until the
desired initial travel compression damping is obtained.
– Lower the oil level by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Entire travel too stiff:
• Stiff suspension on any type of terrain.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in 1/4 turn increments.
– Lower the oil capacity by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Adjustments for Competition 109
Rear Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard settings. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Sand track Lower the rear end (to improve front wheel stability) by increasing Race Sag (reduce spring pre-load).
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster and, especially, rebound damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Increase standard Race Sag (+0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).
Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Adjust the compression and rebound damping adjusters to stiffer settings.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
– Reduce standard Race Sag (–0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Suspension
Symptom Action
Stiff suspension Entire travel too stiff – Test softer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Install the optional soft spring.
Soft suspension Suspension bottoms or rear end
shakes:
– Test stiffer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Suspension
Symptom Action
Rear end kicks up on deep bumps on sand track. – Test stiffer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments until the rear end does not
kick up and/or the suspension becomes stiff.
– Then test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
Suspension bottoms and rear end kicks up on large bumps
on a hard-surface track.
– Test stiffer compression and rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
Rear end gets poor traction accelerating away from a corner. – Test softer rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments. (Test no more than 3 turns.)
– If 1/2 or 3/4 turns don’t produce satisfactory results, test softer compression damping adjustments in 1/4 turn
increments.
– After the above adjustment, check if the suspension bottoms after jumping. If it does, test stiffer compression
damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
Rear end kicks sideways and suspension feels stiff on
continuous bumps.
– Test softer rebound damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
– After the above adjustment, check if the suspension bottoms after jumping. If it does, test stiffer compression
damping adjustments in 1/4 turn increments.
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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
110 Adjustments for Competition
The carburetor used on your CRF should perform
suitably with the standard recommended settings
under average load, climatic, and barometric
conditions. However, to fine tune the engine’s
power output, the carburetor may require
adjustments for specific competition needs.
Optional main jets, slow jets, leak jets and
accelerator pump diaphragms are available for
your CRF. See your dealer.
Any engine or air cleaner housing modifications or
the use of an aftermarket exhaust system may
require jetting changes.
Cold Start Circuit
A very rich mixture must be delivered to the
cylinder when a cold engine is being started. When
the choke knob (1) is pulled out, fuel is metered by
the starter jet (2) and is mixed with air from the air
passage (3) (located above the throttle valve (4)) to
provide a rich mixture for starting. The mixture
discharges through the orifice (5) into the cylinder.
Hot Start Circuit
A lean mixture must be delivered to the cylinder
when a hot engine is being started. When the hot
start lever is pulled back, the hot start valve (1)
opens, allowing air to be supplied to the main bore
(2) through the hot start air passage (3). This extra
air enters the air-fuel mixture from the slow circuit
resulting in a lean condition.
Carburetor Components
(1) choke knob (4) throttle valve
(2) starter jet (5) orifice
(3) air passage
(1)
(5)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(1) hot start valve
(2) main bore
(3) hot start air passage
(2)
(1)
(3)
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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Adjustments for Competition 111
Accelerator Pump Circuit
The accelerator pump circuit operates when the
throttle is opened. As the throttle valve (1) opens,
the pump rod (2) depresses the diaphragm (3). At
this time, the inlet check valve (4) is shut resulting
in a sharp increase in pressure in the pump
chamber (5). The outlet check valve (6) then
opens, supplying fuel to the main bore via the
accelerator nozzle (7). Leak jet (8) operation is
related to both the length of time before the fuel
starts flowing after the opening of the throttle (time
lag) and the flow amount.
Slow Circuit
Fuel is metered by the slow jet (1) and mixed with
air from the air passage (2). The mixture enters the
venturi through the bypass (3) and pilot outlet (4)
that has been metered by the pilot screw (5).
Main Circuit
Fuel is metered by the main jet (1), jet needle (2)
and needle jet (3). It is then mixed with air coming
from the air jet (4) and enters the venturi past the
needle jet.
Baffle Plate
The baffle plate (5) prevents foaming of fuel or
abnormal fuel level around the main jet.
Float Bowl
The float (6) and float valve (7) operate to maintain
a constant level of fuel in the float bowl.
(1) throttle valve (5) pump chamber
(2) pump rod (6) outlet check valve
(3) diaphragm (7) accelerator nozzle
(4) inlet check valve (8) leak jet
(1)
(8)
(7)
(6)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(3)
(1) slow jet (4) pilot outlet
(2) air passage (5) pilot screw
(3) bypass
(3)
(2)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(1) main jet (5) baffle plate
(2) jet needle (6) float
(3) needle jet (7) float valve
(4) air jet
(4)
(2)
(7)
(1)
(3)
(5)
(6)
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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
112 Adjustments for Competition
The carburetor has several major circuits, each
providing the fuel/air mixture over a given portion
of throttle valve opening.
These major circuits overlap as shown below.
Main jet
The main jet affects fuel/air ratio from half (1/2) to
full throttle (4/4). The size should be reduced at
higher altitudes.
Honda carburetor jet sizes are numbered in
increments of 2 or 3. When changing the main jet
size, increase or decrease it gradually until the
desired jetting is obtained. Because Honda jet size
numbers do not correspond with other carburetor
manufacturer’s jet size numbers, use only Honda
jets.
Jet Needle
The jet needle controls fuel/air mixture over fully
closed to 3/4 throttle. The straight section (1)
affects throttle response at smaller throttle
openings. By changing the position of the clip (2)
in its groove, you can improve acceleration at
medium low and medium speed.
Slow Jet and Pilot Screw
The slow jet and pilot screw affects fuel/air ratio
over fully closed to 1/4 throttle. Adjust the pilot
screw to obtain the best off-idle performance.
• If the engine blubbers (rich) exiting a corner,
turn the pilot screw clockwise to lean the
mixture.
• If the engine surges (lean) exiting a corner,
turn the pilot screw counterclockwise to richen
the mixture.
The minimum to maximum range of pilot screw
adjustment is 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 turns out from the
lightly seated position. If you exceed 2 1/4 turns
out, the next larger slow jet is needed.
If you are under 1 1/2 turns out, the next smaller
slow jet is needed.
Leak jet
The smaller the number, the smaller the jet bore
diameter. This controls the amount of fuel returned
to the float chamber under pressure, therefore the
flow amount is increased or decreased. With a
small jet, pressure is raised faster and the elapsed
time before the fuel starts flowing is shorter.
1. Remove the seat and fuel tank (pages 29, 30).
2. Drain the remaining fuel in the float bowl by
loosening the drain screw (1).
3. Drain the carburetor into an approved gasoline
container and dispose of it in an approved
manner (page 130).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
Carburetor Circuit Functions
(1) straight section (2) clip
(2)
(1)
LEANER
RICHER
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Carburetor Removal
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(1) drain screw
(1)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Adjustments for Competition 113
4. Tighten the drain screw.
5. Loosen the insulator band screw (2) and
connecting tube clamp screw (3).
6. When installing the carburetor, align the
carburetor tabs (4) with the insulator and
connecting tube grooves (5).
7. Release the throttle sensor wire from the wire
band (6) and clamp (7).
8. Disconnect the throttle position sensor
connector (8).
9. Pull the dust cover (9) back.
10. Remove the throttle drum cover bolt (10) and
throttle drum cover (11).
11. Loosen the lock nuts (12), adjuster (13) and
disconnect the throttle cables (14) from the
throttle drum (15).
12. Remove the hot start cable holder (16).
(2) insulator band screw
(3) connecting tube clamp screw
(4) tabs
(5) grooves
(2)
(5)
(5)
(3)
(4)
(6) wire band
(7) clamp
(8) throttle position sensor connector
(9) dust cover
(10) throttle drum cover bolt
(11) throttle drum cover
(8)
(7)
(6)
(11)
(10)
(9)
(12) lock nuts (14) throttle cables
(13) adjuster (15) throttle drum
(16) hot start cable holder
(15)
(13)
(12)
(14)
(16)
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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
114 Adjustments for Competition
1. Pull up the cable clamp (1) and remove the
carburetor top screws (2).
Then remove the carburetor top (3).
2. Remove the jet needle/holder assembly (4)
from the throttle valve (5).
3. Remove the link arm torx screw (6).
When installing the link arm torx screw, apply
a locking agent to the link arm torx screw
threads.
4. Remove the throttle valve (5).
5. Remove the floating valve (7) and roller (8)
from the throttle valve.
When installing the floating valve (7) onto the
throttle valve (5), make sure the floating
valve’s flat side faces out and the hole (9) faces
down.
Carburetor Disassembly/Assembly
(1) cable clamp
(2) carburetor top screws
(3) carburetor top
(4) jet needle/holder assembly
(5) throttle valve
(1)
(3)
(2)
(4)
(5)
(5) throttle valve
(6) link arm torx screw
(7) floating valve (8) roller
(6)
(5)
(8)
(7)
(5) throttle valve
(7) floating valve
(9) hole
(9)
(5)
(7)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Adjustments for Competition 115
6. Remove the accelerator pump cover screws
(10) and accelerator pump cover (11).
7. Remove the U-ring (12), O-ring (13), spring
(14) and diaphragm (15).
Clean the diaphragm.
When installing the U-ring into the accelerator
pump cover (11) make sure the U-ring flatside
faces the accelerator pump cover, away from
the float bowl (16).
8. Remove the holder screw (17), throttle stop
screw holder (18), float bowl screws (19), hose
guides (20), float bowl (16) and O-ring (21).
9. Remove the pump rod (22).
Clean the pump rod and rod passage (23).
Install the pump rod by pushing the rod
forcibly into the link lever (24) until it snaps
into place.
10. Measure the float level (25) with the float level
gauge (26) while the float tab is just contacting
the float valve and the carburetor intake (27) is
facing up. The float level should be 0.28 in
(7.0 mm). If the float level is out of
specification, adjust it by bending the float tab
carefully.
11. Remove the leak jet (28) from the float bowl
(16). Clean the leak jet.
(10) accelerator pump cover screws
(11) accelerator pump cover
(11) accelerator pump cover (14) spring
(12) U-ring (15) diaphragm
(13) O-ring (16) float bowl
(11)
(10)
(12)
(11)
(16)
(11)
(12)
(13)
(15)
(14)
(16) float bowl
(17) holder screw
(18) throttle stop screw holder
(19) float bowl screws
(20) hose guides
(21) O-ring
(22) pump rod (24) link lever
(23) rod passage
(16)
(18)
(17)
(19)
(21)
(20)
(23)
(24)
(22)
(24)
(22)
(25) float level (27) carburetor intake
(26) float level gauge
(16) float bowl (28) leak jet
(26)
(25)
(27)
(16)
(28)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
116 Adjustments for Competition
To assemble, reverse the disassembly procedures.
To install the carburetor, reverse the removal
procedures.
Tighten the following parts to the specified torque.
float bowl screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
float bowl plug:
3.6 lbf·ft (4.9 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)
accelerator pump cover screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
carburetor top screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
jet needle/holder assembly:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
link arm torx screw:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
throttle drum cover bolt:
2.5 lbf·ft (3.4 N·m, 0.3 kgf·m)
hot start cable nut:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
throttle cable lock nut:
3.0 lbf·ft (4.0 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
leak jet:
0.2 lbf·ft (0.3 N·m, 0.03 kgf·m)
main jet:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
slow jet:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
• Route the throttle cables (1), hot start cable (2)
and throttle position sensor wire correctly.
• After installing the carburetor, adjust the
throttle grip freeplay and hot start lever
freeplay.
• After installing the carburetor, check the
throttle position sensor connector (3) for
correct routing.
• After installing the carburetor, check the air
vent hoses (4) and overflow hose (5) for
kinking or pinching and correct routing.
• Check that the U-ring and O-ring are in good
condition. Replace them if necessary.
(1) throttle cables
(1)
(2) hot start cable
(3) throttle position sensor connector
(4) air vent hoses
(5) overflow hose
(3)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(4)
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Adjustments for Competition 117
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
For the following recommendations to be accurate,
you must use the standard settings as a baseline.
Also, don’t change any of the settings until you’ve
determined what changes are necessary.
All jetting recommendations are based on standard
jetting with an unmodified engine. The following
conditions can affect the fuel mixture.
Standard Tuning Recommendations
Adjustment Standard settings
Pilot screw opening 2 1/8 turns out
Slow jet #38
Jet needle NMQT
Needle clip position 3rd groove
Main jet #140
Float level 0.28 in (7.0 mm)
Identification number FCR08D
Adjustments for Altitude &
Temperature
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118 Adjustments for Competition
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Your CRF dose not conform to AMA noise
emission regulation for 2017 year.
If you use optional AMA noise emission
regulation conformed muffler, you should change
the carburetor settings.
Optional Muffler Settings
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Adjustments for Competition 119
There are some unique atmospheric conditions or
situations that may require additional adjustments.
It should not be necessary to go more than one jet
size richer or leaner to fine tune your CRF. If larger
jetting changes are necessary, check for air leaks,
blocked or restricted exhaust or fuel systems, or a
dirty air cleaner.
Once you’ve adjusted the carburetor for
temperature and altitude, it shouldn’t need major
readjustment unless race conditions change
drastically. However, there are some unique
atmospheric conditions or race day situations that
may require additional adjustments. They are as
follows.
To prevent engine damage, always adjust the main
jet before adjusting the jet needle. Always choose
the next richer jet if there is any doubt so there is a
margin for safety.
After using the chart, and making any adjustments
for special conditions, it shouldn’t be necessary to
go more than one jet size richer or leaner to fine
tune your CRF. If larger jetting changes are
necessary, check for worn crankshaft seals, air
leaks, blocked or restricted exhaust or fuel
systems, or a dirty air cleaner.
Before adjusting carburetor settings, check the
following:
• air cleaner
• air leaks
• float level
• clogged carburetor jets
• spark plug fouling (improper heat range or
other cause)
• freshness of fuel
• owner modifications (such as exhaust system,
holes in the air cleaner housing, etc.)
• ignition timing
• compression
If the above check out, adjust the carburetor for
your specific racing conditions. Engine response
and appearance of the firing end of a spark plug are
highly indicative of the engine condition.
Refer to the list on page 143 for the optional
carburetor parts.
To prevent engine damage, always adjust the main
jet before adjusting the jet needle. If there is any
doubt — always choose the next richer jet so there
is a margin for safety.
Special Tuning Conditions
Condition Main Jet Adjustment
long straights next larger
uphill sections
sand
mud
high humidity next smaller
raining
hotter than 113 °F (45 °C)
Main Jet • Go richer on the main jet by one
size when: the track has a very long
straightaway or uphill section, a
high percentage of sand, or the
track is muddy.
• Go leaner on the main jet by one
size when: it is very humid or
raining, or it is hotter than 113°F
(45°C).
Pre-Adjustment Checks
.6(B1$ERRN࣮࣌ࢪ㸰㸮㸯㸵ᖺ㸲᭶㸰㸮᪥ࠉᮌ᭙᪥ࠉ༗ᚋ㸯㸯㸷ศ
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
120 Adjustments for Competition
The standard carburetor settings are ideal for the
following conditions: sea level altitude, and 68°F
(20°C) air temperature. If your conditions are
different, you may need to adjust the carburetor
settings, using the tuning information on pages 117
to 119. Confirm your settings are correct before
proceeding.
Minor Adjustments
1. Adjust the carburetor setting using the tuning
information on pages 117 to 119.
2. When the engine is warm enough to run
without the choke, push the choke knob in to
its off position.
3. Adjust the pilot screw (1) to obtain the best off-
idle performance.
– If the engine blubbers (rich) exiting a corner,
turn the pilot screw clockwise to lean the
mixture.
– If the engine surges (lean) exiting a corner,
turn the pilot screw counterclockwise to
richen the mixture.
The minimum to maximum range of pilot screw
adjustments is 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 turns out from the
lightly seated position. If you exceed 2 1/4 turns
out, the next larger slow jet is needed. If you are
under 1 1/2 turn out, the next smaller slow jet is
needed.
Adjustment Procedure
1. Turn the pilot screw in until it is lightly seated
and record the number of turns. Turn the pilot
screw out the same number of turns.
2. Warm up the engine.
3. Adjust the engine idle speed (page 48).
4. Make two or three laps of a course with the
standard setting or corrected jetting (page
117) and spark plug. Note engine acceleration
and other engine conditions in relation to
throttle opening. Verify carburetion by
removing the spark plug and reading its firing
end (page 122). It may take more than two or
three laps to get a good spark plug reading
with a new spark plug.
5. Change carburetor settings or select suitable
carburetor jets, taking into consideration the
engine conditions and factors for temperature
and altitude (page 117).
6. Adjust the pilot screw as required.
If you’ve determined that the main and slow jets
must be changed, you must rotate the carburetor
and remove the float bowl plug.
7. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
8. Drain the remaining fuel in the float bowl by
loosening the drain screw (2). Then tighten the
drain screw after draining the fuel.
Drain the carburetor into an approved gasoline
container and dispose of it in an approved manner
(page 130).
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
9. Loosen the connecting tube clamp and
insulator band screws. Rotate the carburetor.
10. Remove the float bowl plug (3).
Check the float bowl plug O-ring (4) is in
good condition. Replace it if necessary.
Carburetor Minor Adjustments
(1) pilot screw
(1)
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(2) drain screw (4) float bowl plug O-ring
(3) float bowl plug
(2)
(3)
(4)
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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
Adjustments for Competition 121
11. Change the main jet (5) and slow jet (6) as
required.
Main jet;
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
Slow jet:
1.1 lbf·ft (1.5 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
12. Reinstall the float bowl plug and tighten it to
the specified torque:
3.6 lbf·ft (4.9 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)
If you’ve determine that the jet needle or clip
position of jet needle must be changed, you must
remove the carburetor top.
13. Rotate the carburetor to the right and remove
the carburetor top screws (7), cable clamp (8)
and carburetor top (9).
14. Remove the jet needle/holder assembly (10).
15. Remove the clip (11) and jet needle (12) from
the jet needle holder (13).
16. Change the clip position of jet needle or jet
needle as required.
17. Reinstall the jet needle/holder assembly and
tighten it to the specified torque:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
18. Reinstall the carburetor top, cable clamp and
carburetor top screws. Tighten the carburetor
top screws to the specified torque:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
19. Rotate the carburetor and align the tabs (14)
on the carburetor with the grooves (15) on the
insulator and connecting tube.
20. Tighten the connecting tube clamp screw (16)
so the gap between the tabs of the clamp is
0.1 ± 0.04 in (3 ± 1 mm).
(cont’d)
(5) main jet (6) slow jet
(5)
(6)
(7) carburetor top screws (9) carburetor top
(8) cable clamp (10) jet needle/holder
assembly
(11) clip (13) jet needle holder
(12) jet needle
(10)
(9)
(8)
(7)
(13)
(11)
(12)
(14) tabs (16) connecting tube clamp screw
(15) grooves
(15)
(15)
(16)(14)
0.1 0.04 in (3 1 mm)
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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips
122 Adjustments for Competition
21. Tighten the insulator band screw (17) so the
gap between the tabs of the clamp is 0.3 ±
0.04 in (7 ± 1 mm).
22. Start the engine.
If the engine idle speed is too high or too low
or engine is not idling, adjust the engine idle
speed (page 48).
23. Repeat steps 4 – 22 until the engine gives
maximum power with the correct spark plug
reading. It is always better to jet a little rich
than a little lean. It is advisable to record the
settings, course conditions, lap times, and
climatic and barometric conditions for future
reference.
Refer to Spark Plug on page 52.
Check any jetting change by reading the spark
plug. The following procedure is recommended.
You may not get an accurate reading if you simply
turn off the engine and pull the plug for inspection.
Use a new spark plug. Inspect the plug before
installing it.
NOTICE
Using spark plugs with an improper heat range or
incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Before removing the spark plug, clean the spark
plug area thoroughly to prevent dirt from entering
the cylinder.
Ride for 10 – 15 minutes before taking a plug
reading. A new plug will not color immediately.
To obtain an accurate reading of a new spark plug:
1. Accelerate at full-throttle on a straight.
2. Push the engine stop button and pull the clutch
lever in to release the clutch.
3. Coast to a stop.
4. Remove the spark plug.
5. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator (1) around the
center electrode (2) should appear clean and
colorless with a gray ring around the center
electrode where it exits the porcelain. Metallic
specks indicate lean jetting that is removing
metal from the piston. Black sooty streaks on
the porcelain indicate rich jetting.
NOTICE
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, the piston may be
damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may be
damaged.
Spark Plug Coloring Guidelines
Remember that in addition to improper jetting:
• A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in
the inlet tract or exhaust system, the passage of
too much air because of the use of the wrong
air cleaner, use of a less-restrictive aftermarket
exhaust system, or a hole or holes (deliberate
or unintentional) in the air cleaner housing.
• A rich condition can be caused by a plugged or
dirty air cleaner, use of a more-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system, a clogged spark
arrester, or excessive oil on the air cleaner.
Excessive smoking will occur.
(17) insulator band screw
(17)
0.3 0.04 in
(7 1 mm)
±
±
Spark Plug Reading
(1) porcelain insulator (3) side electrode
(2) center electrode
Condition Spark Plug
Appearance
Mixture
Normal Dark brown to light tan
color with dry
electrode
correct
Overheating
(Lean)
Light gray or white
color
lean
Wet
(Rich)
Wet or sooty rich
(2)
(3)
(1)
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Chassis Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 123
The following suggestions may improve a specific
concern. Subtle changes in overall handling may
also be noted.
If you have a problem with rear wheel traction,
raise the rear end of your CRF by increasing the
rear spring pre-load. Instead of running 3.3 in (85
mm) of sag, you can run 3.1 in (80 mm) or 3.0 in
(75 mm) so the rear of the bike will sit a little
higher. This should produce more traction because
of the change to the swingarm and location of your
CRF’s center of gravity.
If you have a problem with the steering head
shaking when you use the front brake hard or if
your CRF wants to turn too quickly, lower the rear
of the motorcycle by reducing the rear spring pre-
load. This will increase fork rake and trail and
should improve stability in a straight line. The
effective suspension travel will be transferred
toward the firmer end of wheel travel.
Keep the race sag adjustment (page 104) in the
3.3 – 4.1 in (85 – 105 mm) range.
The position of the fork tubes in the clamps is not
adjustable. Align the groove in the outer tube with
the top surface of the upper fork clamp.
Standard Position
Align the groove (1) in the outer tube with the top
surface of the upper fork clamp (2).
Adjusting your CRF’s wheelbase can offer subtle
changes in overall handling. You may adjust
wheelbase by adding or removing links on the
drive chain. If you change the wheelbase, be sure
to recheck race sag and adjust it, if necessary.
In the past, a general rule was lengthen the
wheelbase to add straight line stability, shorten the
wheelbase to improve turning. However, we
suggest you do not lengthen the wheelbase of your
CRF unless you are racing on a track with more
fast sections than normal.
As a general recommendation, keep the wheelbase
as short as possible. This positions the wheels
closer together, improves turning response,
increases weighting (traction) on the rear wheel,
and reduces weight on the front wheel.
With your CRF, you will probably find that the
standard setting or a shorter wheelbase will offer
more overall benefits.
Rear End
Fork Height/Angle
(1) groove (2) upper fork clamp
(2)
(1)
Wheelbase
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124 Adjustments for Competition
Gearing
GearingYou can “adjust” the power delivery of the
standard engine to suit track conditions by
changing gearing. This allows you to utilize a
different portion of the engine’s power range at a
given throttle setting. New gearing may provide
the change you are looking for without the need to
consider further modifications.
The portion of your engine’s power range you use
can be adjusted by changing the final drive ratio
with different sized rear sprockets. Gearing
changes allow you to more closely match the type
of terrain and the available traction.
Normally, a change of one tooth on the driven
sprocket will be sufficient.
There is a choice of both higher and lower final
drive ratios with three optional aluminum driven
sprockets. For muddy or sandy courses, standard
steel driven sprocket is a more durable. Like the
optional springs, these sprockets are listed in the
Optional Parts List section of this manual.
Unless you have the required mechanical
knowhow, tools, and an official Honda Service
Manual, sprocket changing should be done by your
dealer.
Higher Gearing (less driven sprocket teeth)
• increases top speed in each gear (provided the
engine will pull the higher gearing)
• reduces frequency of shifting (wider gear
ratios)
• reduces engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may allow better rear
wheel traction on slippery or loose terrain)
However:
• the engine may not pull the higher gearing
• the spacing between gears may be too wide
• engine rpm may be too low
Lower Gearing (more driven sprocket teeth)
• decrease top speed in each gear
• increases frequency of shifting (narrower gear
ratios)
• increases engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may provide more
power-to-the-ground on good traction
surfaces)
However:
• spacing between gears may be too narrow
• engine rpm may be too high
Some tracks may be watered heavily prior to the
first race, then lightly or not at all during the day.
This results in a track surface that is slippery
during the first few races, then changes from good
to great and back to good, and possibly ends the
day with a slick rock-hard consistency.
Ideally, your gearing should be adjusted to suit all
these conditions.
• Wet and slippery or sandy conditions: use a
higher gear (less teeth) to keep engine rpm
down, and avoid unwanted wheelspin. The
engine may bog in certain corners so you’ll
need to slip the clutch to compensate;
downshifting may be too drastic a change in
speed.
• Average conditions: use the standard sprocket.
• Hard (but not slippery) track conditions: use
lower gearing (more teeth) to keep the engine
rpm high where the engine produces the most
power. This may require an extra upshift on
certain sections or perhaps you can just rev it
out a bit longer.
For tight tracks, consider lower gearing to avoid
having to slip the clutch frequently. Repeated
fanning or pulling of the clutch lever in a turn to
raise engine rpm may eventually damage the
clutch system.
A gearing change may help for riding in sand,
where you want to keep the front end light so it can
float from the peak of one sand whoop to the next.
Generally, with higher gearing, it is easier to
maintain that perfect attitude (maximum rear
wheel traction and a light front end) because you
remain in the powerband longer in each gear. The
higher gearing allows you to steer more efficiently
with throttle control and body English.
If you are riding a track with sections where you
choose to over-rev the engine temporarily rather
than shifting up, higher gearing might help.
Sometimes you have to sacrifice performance on
one section of the track to gain a better overall
time. Your goal is the fastest overall lap time, even
if the trade-off is gearing that feels wrong in some
sections.
If you decide to try a gearing change, have
someone check your times with a stopwatch
(before and after the change) to get an accurate
appraisal of the gearing change. “Seat-of-the-
pants” feelings can’t be trusted. Eliminating
wheelspin with a gearing change can make you
feel like you’re going slower when, in reality,
you’ve decreased your time by increasing your
speed with better traction.
These gearing recommendations should be
evaluated by considering your ability, your riding
style, and the track.
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Adjustments for Competition 125
Tire Selection for Track Conditions
Tire Selection for Track ConditionsChoosing the correct tire tread pattern and rubber
compound can affect your placing in competition.
The tires on your CRF offer a “happy medium” for
the variety of soil conditions the majority of riders
are likely to encounter.
Experienced competitors often switch to tires
developed for specific terrain conditions. If you do
switch, stay with the factory recommended sizes.
Other tires may affect handling or acceleration.
Be aware that tire sizes (width and aspect ratio) do
vary from manufacturer to manufacturer or even
among tires made by the same manufacturer.
Variations in tires, especially the sidewall profile,
can change the attitude of your CRF and its
handling. Tire variations that raise or lower the
rear of your CRF have a more significant effect on
handling than variations in front tires which,
generally, don’t vary as much.
Often, you can see or feel the change in tire size.
Another way to check is to measure the rolling
circumference of the old and new tires. A higher
profile tire will have a larger rolling
circumference.
If you do switch to tires designed for special terrain
use, remember they will be less acceptable in other
circumstances. For example, an aggressive mud
tire will give excellent grip on wet, loamy terrain,
but less impressive grip on a hard surface.
If you choose a tire with a sticky compound for
added traction, remember that it may transfer
additional loads to the transmission because it
grips so well, especially when riding in situations
that normally place unusual demands on the
transmission.
Complete consumer information can be obtained
from the various tire manufacturer representatives
and dealers.
Some general recommendations for specific
terrain follow:
Hard, Slick Soil
Use tires with many relatively short knobs that are
close together in order to obtain the largest
possible contact patch on the surface. The rubber
compound needs to be softer for hard ground in
order to hook up, but not so soft that the knobs roll
over easily and affect holding a straight line.
These tires tend to wear more quickly than
standard tires because of the combination of soft
rubber and hard terrain.
Muddy Soil
Use a more open tread pattern to avoid clogging.
For these conditions, the relatively long knobs will
probably be made from a harder rubber compound
to reduce any tendency to bend back under
acceleration or wear quickly.
Loose, Sandy Soil
Use a tire that is similar in construction to those
needed for tacky soil and mud, but with a few more
knobs.
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126 Adjustments for Competition
Personal Fit Adjustments
Personal Fit AdjustmentsThe following suggestions may make your ride
both more comfortable and more responsive to
your control input.
• Position the control levers so that you can use
them comfortably when seated and standing.
• Adjust the mounting bolt torque of the clutch
and brake lever assemblies so that they can
rotate on the handlebar in a fall. If an assembly
does not rotate, it may bend or break a control
lever. Make sure that the bolts are torqued
securely enough to prevent slippage during
normal operation.
Apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent to
the threads of these bolts prior to adjustment to
help ensure the correct torque is retained.
Tighten the top bolts first.
As an alternative, consider wrapping the handlebar
area under the control assemblies with teflon tape.
Then tighten the assemblies to their normal torque.
Upon impact, the fully-tightened assemblies
should rotate on the teflon tape.
• Position the shift lever and brake pedal so they
are close to your boot for rapid access, but not
so close that either is depressed when sitting or
standing comfortably on your CRF.
• Position the handlebar so that both gripping the
bar and operating the controls is comfortable
while both seated and standing, while riding
straight ahead and turning.
Tighten the forward bolts first.
• Be sure to check control cable and wiring
harness routing after the adjustment.
• Handlebar width can be trimmed with a
hacksaw to better suit your particular shoulder
width and riding preference. Think this
through carefully and cut off just a small
amount at a time from both sides equally. It is
obviously much easier to make the handlebar
narrower than it is to add material.
• Chamfer the edges to remove burrs and other
irregularities or roughness after sawing the
handlebar.
• An alternate handlebar shape, through varying
rise or rearward sweep dimensions, will
provide further adjustment to riding position
and may better suit your particular body size or
riding style. Each of the ergonomic dimensions
of the machine were determined to suit the
greatest possible number of riders based on an
average size rider.
Control Positioning
(1) control lever mounting bolts
(1)
(1)
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape
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Tips
Tips 127
Tips
Here’s helpful advice on how to transport and store
your Honda, as well as three troubleshooting flow
charts.
Transporting Your Motorcycle...................... 128
Storing Your Honda ...................................... 129
Preparation for Storage.............................. 129
Removal from Storage .............................. 129
You & the Environment ................................ 130
Troubleshooting............................................. 131
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Transporting Your Motorcycle
128 Tips
Transporting Your Motorcycle
If you use a truck or motorcycle trailer to transport
your Honda, we recommend that you follow these
guidelines:
• Use a loading ramp.
• Make sure the fuel valve is off.
• Secure the motorcycle in an upright position,
using motorcycle tie-down straps. Avoid using
rope, which can loosen and allow the
motorcycle to fall over.
To secure your CRF, brace the front wheel against
the front of the truck bed or trailer rail.
Attach the lower ends of two straps to the tie-down
hooks on your CRF. Attach the upper ends of the
straps to the handlebar (one on the right side, the
other on the left), close to the fork.
Check that the tie-down straps do not contact any
control cables or electrical wiring.
Tighten both straps until the front suspension is
compressed about half-way. Too much pressure is
unnecessary and could damage the fork seals.
Use another tie-down strap to keep the rear of the
motorcycle from moving.
We recommend that you do not transport your
CRF on its side. This can damage the motorcycle,
and leaking gasoline could be a hazard.
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Storing Your Honda
Tips 129
Storing Your Honda
If you won’t be riding for an extended period, such
as during the winter, thoroughly inspect your
Honda and correct any problem before storing it.
That way, needed repairs won’t be forgotten and it
will be easier to get your CRF running again.
To reduce or prevent deterioration that can occur
during storage, also follow the following
procedures.
1. Completely clean all parts of your CRF. If your
CRF has been exposed to sea air or salt water,
wash it down with fresh water and wipe dry.
2. Change the engine oil and filter (page 37).
3. Replace the transmission oil (page 40).
4. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank and carburetor
into an approved gasoline container.
Turn the fuel valve OFF and loosen the
carburetor drain screw. Drain gasoline into an
approved container. Retighten the drain screw.
5. Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain
bolt/sealing washer (1) at the water pump (2) to
drain coolant.
After the coolant has been completely drained,
ensure that the drain bolt sealing washer is in
good condition and install the drain bolt/
sealing washer and radiator cap.
Coolant drain bolt:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
6. Lubricate the drive chain.
7. Inflate the tires to their recommended
pressures.
8. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or an
equivalent to raise both tires off the ground.
9. Stuff a rag into the muffler outlet. Then tie a
plastic bag over the end of the muffler to
prevent moisture from entering.
10. Store your CRF in an unheated area, free of
dampness, away from sunlight, with a
minimum of daily temperature variation.
11. Cover your CRF with a porous material.
Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing,
coated materials that restrict air flow and allow
heat and moisture to accumulate.
1. Uncover and clean your CRF.
Change the engine and transmission oil if more
than 4 months have passed since the start of
storage.
2. Uncover the end of the muffler and remove the
rag from the muffler outlet.
3. Fill the fuel tank with the recommended fuel
(page 34).
4. Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
(page 41) slowly into the radiator fill hole up to
the filler neck.
Capacity:
0.80 US qt (0.76 ℓ)
after disassembly
Lean your CRF slightly right and left several
times to bleed trapped air in the cooling
system.
If the coolant level lowers, add coolant and
repeat the above procedure.
Install the radiator cap securely.
5. Perform all maintenance checks (page 9).
Preparation for Storage
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(1) coolant drain bolt/sealing washer
(2) water pump
(1)
(2)
Removal from Storage
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You & the Environment
130 Tips
You & the Environment
Owning and riding a motorcycle can be enjoyable,
but you must do your part to protect nature. When
you show respect for the land, wildlife, and other
people, you also help preserve the sport of off road
riding.
Following are tips on how you can be an
environmentally responsible motorcycle owner.
• Choose Sensible Cleaners. Use a
biodegradable detergent when you wash your
CRF. Avoid aerosol spray cleaners that contain
chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) which damage the
atmosphere’s protective ozone layer. Don’t
throw cleaning solvents away; see the following
guidelines for proper disposal.
• Recycle Wastes. It’s illegal and thoughtless to
put used engine oil in the trash, down a drain, or
on the ground. Used oil, gasoline, and cleaning
solvents contain poisons that can hurt refuse
workers and contaminate our drinking water,
lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Before changing your oil, make sure you have
the proper containers. Put oil and other toxic
wastes in separate sealed containers and take
them to a recycling center. Call your local or
state office of public works or environmental
services to find a recycling center in your area
and get instructions on how to dispose of
nonrecyclable wastes.
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
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Troubleshooting
Tips 131
Troubleshooting
The items that are serviceable using this Manual
are followed by the page number reference in
parenthesis. The items that require use of the
Honda Service Manual are followed by an asterisk
(
*).
ENGINE DOES NOT START OR IS HARD TO START
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the fuel flow
to carburetor
• No fuel in fuel tank
• Clogged fuel line or fuel
filter (P.34)
• Sticking float valve
*
• Clogged fuel fill cap
breather tube
2. Try spark test
*
• Faulty spark plug (P.52)
• Fouled spark plug (P.52)
• Faulty ignition control
module
*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil wire
• Faulty exciter coil
*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil
• Faulty engine stop button
*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator
*
3. Test cylinder
compression
*
• Valve stuck open
• Worn cylinder and piston
ring
*
• Leaking/damaged
cylinder head gasket
• Improper valve timing
*
• Seized valve
4. Start by following
normal starting
procedure
• Improper choke operation
• Pilot screw incorrectly
adjusted
*
• Insulator leaking
• Improper ignition timing
(Faulty direct ignition coil
or ignition pulse
generator)
*
• Fuel contaminated
• Improper hot start
operation (P. 13)
5. Remove and
inspect spark plug
• Carburetor flooded
• Choke closed
• Throttle valve open
• Air cleaner dirty (P. 43)
6. START WITH CHOKE ON
REACHING
CARBURETOR
NOT
REACHING
CARBURETOR
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
NO SPARK
NORMAL
LOW
ENGINE DOES
NOT FIRE
ENGINE
STARTS
BUT SOON
STOPS
DRY
WET PLUG
POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW AND UNSTABLE
IDLE SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check if air cleaner
is overoiled (P.43)
• Over-oiled air cleaner
2. Check if the
connecting tube
and/or insulator is
leaking
• Loose connecting tube
and/or insulator band
• Damaged connecting
tube and/or insulator
3. Check carburetor
pilot screw
adjustment
• Fuel-air mixture too lean
(Turn the pilot screw out)
(P.120)
• Fuel-air mixture too rich
(Turn the pilot screw in)
(P. 120)
4. Check carburetor
jets and accelerator
pump for clogs
• Contaminants in the fuel
• Not cleaned frequently
enough (P.112)
5. Try spark test • Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.52)
• Faulty ignition control
module
*
• Faulty exciter coil
*
• Faulty engine stop button
• Faulty direct ignition coil
*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil wire
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator
*
6. Check the throttle
position sensor
*
• Faulty throttle position
sensor
*
7. Test cylinder
compression
*
• Ring worn
• Cylinder worn or
damaged
*
• Piston worn or damaged
*
• Head gasket not sealing
• Valve stuck open
CORRECT
INCORRECT
NOT LEAKING
LEAKING
CORRECT
INCORRECT
NOT CLOGGED
CLOGGED
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
I
NTERMITTENT
SPARK
CORRECT
INCORRECT
CORRECT
LOW
POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Disconnect fuel line
at carburetor and
check for clogging
(P.34)
• Lack of fuel in tank (P.34)
• Clogged fuel line (P.34)
• Clogged fuel fill cap
breather tube (P.34)
• Clogged fuel filter (P.35)
• Clogged fuel valve (P.34)
2. Remove air cleaner
(P.43)
• Not cleaned frequently
enough (P.43)
3. Install a larger
carburetor main jet
(P. 117)
• Jet size wrong, rejet in the
opposite direction (P.120)
4. Check carburetor
jets for clogging
• Contaminants in the fuel
5. Check valve timing • Cam sprocket not
installed properly
6. Try spark test • Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark pulg (P.52)
• Faulty ignition control
module
*
• Faulty exciter coil
*
• Faulty engine stop button
• Faulty direct ignition coil
*
• Broken or shorted direct
ignition coil wire
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator
*
7. Test cylinder
compression
*
• Ring worn
• Cylinder worn or
damaged
• Piston worn or damaged
• Head gasket not sealing
• Valve stuck open
UNRESTRICTED
FUEL FLOW
FUEL FLOW
RESTRICTED
AIR FILTER
NOT DIRTY
DIRTY
CORRECT
CONDITION
WORSE
NOT CLOGGED
CLOGGED
CORRECT
INCORRECT
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
CORRECT
LOW
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132 Tips
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BLANK PAGE
Technical Information
Technical Information 133
Technical Information
This section contains dimensions, capacities, and
other technical data.
Vehicle Identification.....................................134
Specifications.................................................135
Torque Specifications ....................................137
Oxygenated Fuels...........................................140
Competition Logbook ....................................141
Optional Parts List .........................................143
Spare Parts & Equipment...............................145
Wiring Diagram .............................................146
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Vehicle Identification
134 Technical Information
Vehicle Identification
The VIN and engine serial number are required
when you register your CRF. They may also be
required when ordering replacement parts. You
may record these numbers in the Quick Reference
section at the rear of this manual.
The VIN (vehicle identification number) (1) is
stamped on the right side of the steering head.
RIGHT SIDE
(1) VIN
The engine number (2) is stamped on the left
crankcase.
LEFT SIDE
Serial Numbers
(2) engine number
(1)
(2)
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Specifications
Technical Information 135
Specifications
CRF150R
Item English Metric
Dimension
Overall length 72.1 in 1,832 mm
Overall width 30.3 in 770 mm
Overall height 44.6 in 1,133 mm
Wheelbase 49.6 in 1,260 mm
Seat height 32.8 in 832 mm
Footpeg height 14.9 in 379 mm
Ground clearance 11.9 in 301 mm
Frame
Type Semi double cradle
F. suspension
Telescopic fork
travel 9.5 in (241 mm)
stroke 10.8 in (275 mm)
R. suspension
Pro-link,
travel 10.7 in (272 mm)
Front tire
AC
70/100 – 17 40M
DUNLOP MX71F
CM
70/100 – 17 40M
BRIDGESTONE
M23
Rear tire
AC
90/100 – 14 49M
DUNLOP MX71
CM
90/100 – 14 49M
BRIDGESTONE
M22
Tire type bias-ply, tube
Tire pressure,
front (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire pressure,
rear (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
F. brake, swept
area
Single disc brake
55.5 in
2
(358.1
cm
2
)
R. brake, swept
area
Single disc brake
46.6 in
2
(300.7
cm
2
)
Fuel
recommendation
unleaded gasoline, pump octane
number of 91 or higher
Fuel capacity 1.14
US gal
4.3 ℓ
Caster angle 27°2’
Trail length 3.1 in 78 mm
Fork oil capacity 12.04
US oz
356 cm
3
Item
English Metric
Engine
Type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Cylinder arrangement
Single 19° inclined from
vertical
Bore and stroke
2.60 x 1.72 in 66.0 x 43.7 mm
Displacement 9.13 cu-in 149.7 cm
3
Compression ratio 11.7 : 1
Valve clearance
Intake: 0.006 ± 0.001 in
(0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
Exhaust: 0.010 ± 0.001 in
(0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
0.59 US qt 0.56 ℓAfter draining
After draining and
oil filter change 0.62 US qt 0.59 ℓ
After disassembly 0.74 US qt 0.70 ℓ
Transmission oil capacity
0.60 US qt 0.57 ℓAfter draining
After disassembly 0.69 US qt 0.65 ℓ
Carburetor
Type Piston valve
Identification number FCR08D
Main jet (standard) # 140
Jet needle (standard) NMQT
Needle clip position
(standard)
3rd groove
Slow jet (standard) # 38
Pilot screw opening 2 1/8 turns out
Float level 0.28 in 7.0 mm
Idle speed 2,100 ± 100 rpm
Cooling system
Cooling capacity
0.80 US qt 0.76 ℓAfter disassembly
Item English Metric
Drive train
Clutch type Wet, multi-plate type
Transmission 5-speed, constant mesh
Primary reduction 4.117
Gear ratio I 2.214
Gear ratio II 1.647
Gear ratio III 1.318
Gear ratio IV 1.105
Gear ratio V 0.956
Final reduction 3.333
Gear shift pattern
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
Electrical
Ignition ICM
Starting system Kickstarter
Spark plug :
Standard
NGK CR8EH-9
DENSO U24FER9
Optional NGK CR9EH-9
DENSO U27FER9
Spark plug gap
0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
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Specifications
136 Technical Information
Specifications
CRF150RB
Item English Metric
Dimension
Overall length 74.8 in 1,900 mm
Overall width 30.3 in 770 mm
Overall height 46.1 in 1,171 mm
Wheelbase 50.6 in 1,285 mm
Seat height 34.1 in 866 mm
Footpeg height 16.3 in 413 mm
Ground clearance 13.2 in 336 mm
Frame
Type Semi double cradle
F. suspension
Telescopic fork
travel 9.5 in (241 mm)
stroke 10.8 in (275 mm)
R. suspension
Pro-link
travel 11.1 in (282 mm)
Front tire
AC
70/100 – 19 42M
DUNLOP MX71F
CM
70/100 – 19 42M
BRIDGESTONE
M61
Rear tire
AC
90/100 – 16 52M
DUNLOP MX71
CM
90/100 – 16 52M
BRIDGESTONE
M58
Tire type bias-ply, tube
Tire pressure,
front (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Tire pressure,
rear (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
F. brake, swept
area
Single disc brake
55.5 in
2
(358.1
cm
2
)
R. brake, swept
area
Single disc brake
46.6 in
2
(300.7
cm
2
)
Fuel
recommendation
unleaded gasoline, pump octane
number of 91 or higher
Fuel capacity 1.14
US gal
4.3 ℓ
Caster angle 27°48’
Trail length 3.8 in 96 mm
Fork oil capacity 11.57
US oz
342 cm
3
Item
English Metric
Engine
Type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Cylinder arrangement
Single 19° inclined from
vertical
Bore and stroke
2.60 x 1.72 in 66.0 x 43.7 mm
Displacement 9.13 cu-in 149.7 cm
3
Compression ratio 11.7 : 1
Valve clearance
Intake: 0.006 ± 0.001 in
(0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
Exhaust: 0.010 ± 0.001 in
(0.26 ± 0.03 mm)
Engine oil capacity
0.59 US qt 0.56 ℓAfter draining
After draining and
oil filter change 0.62 US qt 0.59 ℓ
After disassembly 0.74 US qt 0.70 ℓ
Transmission oil capacity
0.60 US qt 0.57 ℓAfter draining
After disassembly 0.69 US qt 0.65 ℓ
Carburetor
Type Piston valve
Identification number FCR08D
Main jet (standard) # 140
Jet needle (standard) NMQT
Needle clip position
(standard)
3rd groove
Slow jet (standard) # 38
Pilot screw opening 2 1/8 turns out
Float level 0.28 in 7.0 mm
Idle speed 2,100 ± 100 rpm
Cooling system
Cooling capacity
0.80 US qt 0.76 ℓAfter disassembly
Item English Metric
Drive train
Clutch type Wet, multi-plate type
Transmission 5-speed, constant mesh
Primary reduction 4.117
Gear ratio I 2.214
Gear ratio II 1.647
Gear ratio III 1.318
Gear ratio IV 1.105
Gear ratio V 0.956
Final reduction 3.733
Gear shift pattern
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
Electrical
Ignition ICM
Starting system Kickstarter
Spark plug :
Standard
NGK CR8EH-9
DENSO U24FER9
Optional NGK CR9EH-9
DENSO U27FER9
Spark plug gap
0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
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Torque Specifications
Technical Information 137
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before every outing.
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
RIGHT SIDE
Engine
LEFT SIDE
ENGINE
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
1 Cylinder head cover bolts
7101.0
2 Exhaust pipe joint nuts
8111.1
3 Coolant drain bolt
7101.0
4 Crankshaft hole cap
11 15 1.5 NOTE 5
5 Transmission oil check
bolt
7101.0
6 Cylinder bolt
7101.0
7 Oil filter cover bolts
7101.0
8 Cylinder head bolts
7101.0
9 Drive sprocket bolt
10 13 1.3
10 Transmission oil drain bolt
16 22 2.2 NOTE 3
11 Engine oil drain bolt
16 22 2.2 NOTE 3
NOTES: 1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and seating surface.
4. Alock bolt.
5. Apply grease to the threads.
6. Apply locking agent to the threads.
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Torque Specifications
138 Technical Information
Frame
FRAME
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
1 Steering stem nut
94 128 13.1
2 Fork bridge upper pinch
bolts
16 22 2.2
3 Fork bridge lower pinch
bolts
16 22 2.2
4 Handlebar upper holder
bolts
16 22 2.2
5 Front axle nut
51 69 7.0 NOTE 1
6 Rear axle nut
65 88 9.0 NOTE 1
7 Chain adjuster lock nuts
20 27 2.8 NOTE 2
8 Front engine hanger
bracket nuts (10 mm)
47 64 6.5
9 Front engine hanger
bracket nut (8 mm)
25 34 3.5
10 Middle engine mounting
nut
47 64 6.5
11 Shock absorber
32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
12 Swingarm pivot nut
61 83 8.5
13 Rear shock arm nuts
(swingarm side)
32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
(shock link side)
32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
14 Rear shock link nuts
(frame side)
32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
15
Shock spring lock nut
32 44 4.5
16 Kickstarter arm bolt
28 38 3.9
17 Throttle cable adjuster
lock nut
3.0 4.0
0.4
18 Brake lever adjuster
lock nut
4.4 5.9 0.6
19 Brake pedal adjuster
lock nut
4.4 5.9 0.6
NOTES: 1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and flange surface.
4. Alock bolt.
5. Apply grease to the threads.
6. Apply locking agent to the threads.
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Torque Specifications
Technical Information 139
Frame
FRAME
Item
Torque
Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
20 Brake hose bolts
25 34 3.5
21 Brake caliper mounting
bolts
22 30 3.1 NOTE 4
22 Brake disc bolts
15 20 2.0 NOTE 4
23 Brake pedal pivot bolt
24 32 3.3
24 Spokes
2.7 3.7 0.4
25 Rim locks
912.41.3
26 Subframe upper/lower
mounting bolts
22 30 3.1
27 Fork cap
25 34 3.5
28 Fork cap lock nut
15 19.7 2.0
29 Fork protector bolts
5.2 7 0.7 NOTE 4
30 Muffler mounting bolts
24 32 3.3
31 Muffler clamp bolt
15 21 2.1
32 Driven sprocket nuts
24 32 3.3 NOTE 1
33 Seat mounting bolts
19 26 2.7
34 Front brake reservoir
cap screws
1.1 1.5 0.2
35 Rear brake reservoir
cap bolts
1.1 1.5 0.2
36 Fork air pressure release
screw
1.0 1.3 0.1
37 Fuel valve bolts
7101.0
NOTES: 1. U-nut
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and flange surface.
4. Alock bolt.
5. Apply grease to the threads.
6. Apply locking agent to the threads.
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Oxygenated Fuels
140 Technical Information
Oxygenated Fuels
Some conventional gasolines are being blended
with alcohol or an ether compound. These
gasolines are collectively referred to as oxygenated
fuels. To meet clean air standards, some areas of
the United States and Canada use oxygenated fuels
to help reduce emissions.
If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is
unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating
requirement.
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm the
fuel’s contents. Some states/provinces require this
information to be posted on the pump.
The following are the EPA-approved percentages
of oxygenates:
ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol) up to 10% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 10%
ethanol by volume. Gasoline containing ethanol
may be marketed under the name “Gasohol”.
METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol) up to 5%
by Volume
You may use gasoline containing methanol
containing up to 15% methanol by volume as long
as it contains cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors to
protect the fuel system. Gasoline containing more
than 5% methanol by volume may cause starting
and/or performance problems. It may also damage
metal, rubber, and plastic parts of your fuel system.
If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms,
try another service station or switch to another
brand of gasoline.
Fuel system damage or performance problems
resulting from the use of an oxygenated fuel
containing more than the percentages of
oxygenates mentioned above are not covered
under warranty.
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic. Be
careful not to spill fuel when filling the fuel tank.
Wipe up any spills immediately.
NOTICE
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
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Competition Logbook
Technical Information 141
Any serious competition effort relies heavily on
the knowledge gained and compiled from previous
racing events. The best way to organize the many
bits of information is to record them in a logbook.
Your logbook can include such information as
suspension adjustments, carburetor adjustments,
gearing, and tire selection. This detailed
information, along with your comments, can prove
valuable when you compete at the same track or on
similar terrain.
Your logbook can also tell you when maintenance
was performed and when it will be necessary
again. Your logbook also lets you record any
repairs and lets you keep track of the running time
on the engine and suspension components.
If you choose to sell your CRF, the accurate
maintenance records in your logbook might be the
deciding deal-maker for a potential buyer.
Consider using different color pens or pencils to
record important information on specific subjects.
For example, record results in black, jetting
changes in red, suspension/chassis settings in blue,
and gearing selections in green. Color codes will
help you identify the information you want with a
glance.
Tuning & Adjustment Records
Keep track of the settings and adjustments that
worked best at a particular location. These items
include:
• basic track conditions, altitude, and
temperature
• carburetion changes
• suspension settings
• chassis adjustments tested and selected
• gearing
• tire selection
• air pressure
Competition Records
• your placings
• thoughts to improve performance next time:
both yours and your CRF
• strategy notes
Maintenance Records
• regular interval maintenance
• repairs
• running time on engine
• running time on suspension components
Timekeeping
This Manual lists maintenance intervals for every-
so-many races or every-so-many hours of running.
Because all races are not the same, the most
effective way to schedule maintenance is by the
hours you have run your CRF.
An official “guesstimate” is close enough for our
timekeeping purposes. You may choose to record
your time the same way aircraft operators do (but
without the benefit of an electrical hourmeter). All
running time is broken down into hours and tenths
of an hour (each six minutes represents one tenth
of an hour).
Racing Records
Information worth recording for this section of
your logbook may include:
• Your placing in each moto and overall
finishing position.
• Thoughts on what you could do to improve
your performance next time.
• Notes on any patterns noted in choice of
starting gate positions or in riding portions of
the course as the day progressed that may
prove helpful in future events.
• Any places on the course where you chose the
wrong line and were passed too easily.
• Notes on strategy used by your competition or
by riders in another event that are worth
remembering.
Maintenance Records
Regular maintenance items you’ll want to record
in your logbook should include:
• Dates and results of cylinder, piston and ring
examinations
• Patterns for frequency of need for
decarbonization with a particular oil
• When you last performed shock linkage and
swingarm pivot bearing maintenance
• Engine, transmission, and suspension oil
changes
• Chain, sprocket, chain guide and slider
replacements
• Coolant changes and related component
replacements
• Spark plug, brake pad and control cable
replacements
In addition, you should record any irregularities
noted in component wear so you’ll remember to
keep a close eye on these areas in the future.
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Competition Logbook
142 Technical Information
Date Running
Time
Location/Event Comments (Jetting, Suspension Settings, Gearing, Chassis Adjustments, Maintenance,
Performed, etc.)
(Make several photocopies of this page for future use)
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Optional Parts List
Technical Information 143
Optional Parts List
These parts and tools may be ordered from your
authorized dealer.
* Your CRF dose not conform to AMA noise emission
regulation for 2017 year.
An optional AMA noise emission regulation conformed
muffler may be available. Contact your dealer
.
CARBURETOR Remarks
Main jet
(Standard: #140)
#128 – #148 (in
increments of 2 or 3)
Slow jet
(Standard: #38)
#35 – #42
(in increments of
2 or 3)
Jet Needle
Standard needle: NMQT
Straight diameter: ø2.775 mm)
Specific flow
characteristics
at 1/16 to 1/4
throttle
Jet needle
number
(standard
series)
Jet needle
number
(1/2 clip
position leaner
than standard
at 1/8 to 3/4
throttle)
Rich
NMQR
ø2.755 mm
NMRR
ø2.755 mm
NMQS
ø2.765 mm
NMRS
ø2.765 mm
(standard
needle)
NMQT
ø2.775 mm
NMRT
ø2.775 mm
NMQU
ø2.785 mm
NMRU
ø2.785 mm
Lean NMQV
ø2.795 mm
NMRV
ø2.795 mm
MARK
CARBURETOR Remarks
Fuel flow amount Leak jet number
decrease #75
#70
#65 (standard)
#60
increase #55
MUFFLER* Remarks
AMA Noise Emission
Regulation
Conformed Muffler
Using an optional muffler,
change the carburetor
settings.
See page 118 for more
details.
FRAME Remarks
Driven
sprocket
CRF150R
< >:
Drive chain links
49T, Aluminum
<
120
>
50T, steel <120> (standard)
50T, Aluminum
<
120
>
51T, Aluminum
<
120
>
CRF150RB
< >:
Drive chain links
55T, Aluminum
<
126
>
56T, steel <126> (standard)
56T, Aluminum
<
126
>
57T, Aluminum
<
126
>
Drive
chain
Standard
DID420DS3:
120 Links (CRF150R)
126 Links (CRF150RB)
Optional DID420DS3: 130 Links
TOOLS Remarks
Workstand For maintenance
Pin spanner A To adjust spring preload
Pin spanner B To torque the shock spring lock
nut
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Optional Parts List
144 Technical Information
Specifications
FRAME Remarks
Shock
springs
CRF150R
Softer
268.4 lbf/in
(47.0 N/mm)
Standard
279.8 lbf/in
(49.0 N/mm)
Stiffer
291.2 lbf/in
(51.0 N/mm)
Red mark
White mark
No mark
FRAME Remarks
Shock
springs
CRF150RB
Softer
279.8 lbf/in
(49.0 N/mm)
Standard
291.2 lbf/in
(51.0 N/mm)
Stiffer
302.6 lbf/in
(53.0 N/mm)
White mark
No mark
Black mark
FRAME Remarks
Fork
springs
CRF150R
Softer
17.9 lbf/in
(3.14 N/mm)
Standard
19.0 lbf/in
(3.33 N/mm)
Stiffer
20.2 lbf/in
(3.53 N/mm)
CRF150RB
Softer
19.0 lbf/in
(3.33 N/mm)
Standard
20.2 lbf/in
(3.53 N/mm)
Stiffer
21.3 lbf/in
(3.73 N/mm)
2 coils at
one end;
1 coil at
other end
1 coil at
both ends
1 scribe
mark
1 coil at
both ends
1 scribe
mark
2 scribe
mark
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Spare Parts & Equipment
Technical Information 145
Spare Parts & Equipment
There are numerous spare parts you can take to an
event to help ensure you get in a full day of riding.
In addition to the usual nuts and bolts, consider the
following:
spark plugs
air cleaner (clean & oiled, sealed in a plastic bag)
optional carburetor jets/needles
chain & masterlinks
chain guide slider
chain guide
chain rollers
inner tubes (front & rear)
fenders
footpegs
number plate & side covers
handlebar
grips
levers (brake, clutch & hot start)
clutch lever handlebar mount
clutch cable
hot start cable
throttle assembly
throttle cable
shift lever
brake pedal
spokes (front & rear, each side)
sprockets (larger & smaller than standard, for
gearing changes & collision damage replacement)
assorted nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cotter pins
Additional Spares
front brake master cylinder
rear brake assembly
wheels & tires (front & rear, mounted)
clutch discs and plates
engine & transmission oil
seat
ignition components
radiator hoses
radiator shrouds (L & R)
brake hoses (front & rear)
sockets (3/8 in drive)
screwdrivers: blade & Phillips No. 1, 2, 3
wrench, large adjustable
wrenches: open end & box
wrenches: hex (Allen)
wrench, spoke
torque wrench (metric scale, click-stop style)
pliers: standard, needle-nose, channel-lock set
hammer, plastic head
syringe with adjustable stop
tire pressure gauge
tire irons
tire pump or air tank
feeler gauge set
vernier caliper (metric)
pressure/vacuum testing equipment (USA only)
Any special tools for your CRF purchased from
your dealer.
• Spoke Wrench 07701-0020300
• T e n s i o n e r S t o p p e r 0 7 0 M G - 0 0 1 0 1 0 0
0 7 A M G - 0 0 1 A 1 0 0
(USA only)
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
(Engine and Transmission Oil)
SAE 80 or 90 gear oil
HP Fork Oil, SS-19
Pro Honda DOT 4 Brake Fluid
Pro Honda HP Chain Lube
Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
Pro Honda Hondabrite
Pro Honda Dielectric Grease
Pro Honda Handgrip Cement
Pro Honda Hondalock
Molybdenum Disulfide Grease (containing more
than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive)
Pro Honda White Lithium Grease
Multi-purpose Grease
Rust-inhibiting Oil
Cable lubricant
Pro Honda HP Coolant
Urea based multi-purpose grease with extreme
pressure (example: EXCELITE EP2 manufactured
by KYODO YUSHI, Japan or Shell Stamina EP2
or an equivalent)
pliers-safety wire
safety wire
mechanic’s wire
duct tape
plastic tie-wraps
hose clamps
drop light
electrical tape
Scotch-Brite Hand Pad #7447 (maroon)
Teflon tape
Spare Parts
General Tools
Honda Special Tools
Chemical Products
Other Products
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Wiring Diagram
146 Technical Information
Wiring Diagram
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Consumer Information
Consumer Information 147
Consumer Information
This section contains information about contacting
Honda and how to get an official Honda Service
Manual.
Authorized Manuals.......................................148
Contacting Honda ..........................................149
Your Honda Dealer ........................................150
The Honda Rider's Club (USA only).............151
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Authorized Manuals
148 Consumer Information
Authorized Manuals
The Service Manual used by your authorized dealer is available from your
Honda dealer or Helm, Inc. (USA only, Canada: See your dealer to order
authorized manuals.)
Also available but not necessary to service your model is the Honda Common
Service Manual which explains theory of operation and basic service
information for various systems on Honda motorcycles, scooters, and ATV.
The Winter Storage Guide in conjunction with the Owner’s Manual and
Service Manual can help you prepare your Honda motorcycle, scooter, ATV,
and SxS for winter storage.
These Honda manuals are written for the professional technician, but most
mechanically-capable owners should find them helpful if they have the proper
tools and skills. Special Honda tools are necessary for some procedures.
Order On-Line: www.helminc.com
Order Toll Free: 1-888-CYCLE93 (1-888-292-5393)
(NOTE: For Credit Card Orders Only)
Monday - Friday 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM EST
Publication Item No. Description
61KSE09 2018 CRF150R/RB Service Manual
61CSM00 Common Service Manual
S9507 Winter Storage Guide
31KSE690 2018 CRF150R/RB Owner’s Manual
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Contacting Honda
Consumer Information 149
Contacting Honda
Your owner’s manual was written to cover most of
the questions you might ask about your Honda.
Any questions not answered in the owner’s manual
can be answered by your dealer. If he doesn’t have
the answer right away, he will get it for you.
If you have a difference of opinion with your
dealer, please remember that each dealership is
independently owned and operated. That’s why
it’s important to work to resolve any differences at
the dealership level.
If you wish to comment on your experiences with
your Honda or with your dealer, please send your
comments to the following address:
Motorcycle Division, American Honda Motor Co.,
Inc., P.O. Box 2200, Torrance CA 90509- 2200,
mailstop: 100-4C-7B,
telephone: (866) 784-1870.
Canada: Honda Canada Inc., Customer Relations
Dept, 180 Honda Boulevard, Markham, Ontario
L6C 0H9, telephone: (888) 946 – 6329,
facsimile: (877) 939 – 0909.
E-mail: [email protected]
Please include the following information in your
letter:
• name, address, and telephone number
• product model, year, and VIN
• date of purchase
• dealer name and address
We will likely ask your dealer to respond, or
possibly acknowledge your comments directly.
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Your Honda Dealer
150 Consumer Information
Your Honda Dealer
Once you purchase your new Honda, get familiar
with the organization of your Honda dealer so you
can utilize the full range of services available.
The service department is there to perform regular
maintenance and unexpected repairs. It has the
latest available service information from Honda.
The parts department offers Honda Genuine Parts,
Pro Honda products, Honda Genuine Accessories
(USA only), and Honda accessories and products
(Canada only). The same quality that went into
your Honda can be found in Honda Genuine
replacement parts. You’ll also find comparable
quality in the accessories and products available
from the parts department.
Your dealer can inform you about competition
events in your area. You’ll also find that your
dealer is a source of information (USA only) the
Honda Rider’s Club of America.
We’re sure you’ll be as pleased with the service
your dealer continues to provide after the sale as
you are with the quality and dependability of your
Honda.
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The Honda Rider's Club (USA only)
Consumer Information 151
The Honda Rider's Club (USA only)
The Honda Rider's Club of America (HRCA)
sponsors local riding chapters at Authorized
Honda Dealerships across the country.
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Index
152 Index
Index
accessories ......................................................... 3
adjustments,
altitude and temperature ........................... 117
carburetor ................................................. 110
chassis....................................................... 123
control freeplay .............................. 46, 49, 51
engine idle speed ........................................ 48
for competition ........................................... 93
gearing...................................................... 124
personal fit................................................ 126
suspension, front......................................... 94
suspension, rear ........................................ 102
suspension, track conditions..................... 106
tire selection ............................................. 125
after competition maintenance ........................ 26
air cleaner ........................................................ 43
air pressure,
front suspension.......................................... 94
tires............................................................. 80
appearance care ............................................... 90
authorized manuals........................................ 148
basic operation................................................. 11
before riding ...................................................... 7
between motos & practice maintenance.......... 26
brakes,
fluid level.................................................... 76
lever, front adjustment................................ 75
pad wear ..................................................... 78
pedal height ................................................ 75
break-in guidelines .......................................... 16
capacity, fuel ....................................................34
carburetor,
adjustment.................................................110
circuit functions ........................................112
components ...............................................110
disassembly/assembly...............................114
idle speed ....................................................48
minor adjustments.....................................120
optional muffler settings ...........................118
care, appearance...............................................90
chain drive........................................................82
chassis adjustments ........................................123
choke knob .......................................................13
cleaner, air........................................................43
cleaning, appearance care ................................90
clutch system, adjustment ................................49
competition logbook ......................................141
consumer information ....................................147
contacting Honda ...........................................149
controls, operating..............................................
5
coolant................
..............................................41
customer service.............................................149
cylinder system ................................................62
damping adjustments,
front...........................................................100
rear ............................................................103
dealer, your Honda.........................................150
diagram, wiring ..............................................146
drive chain........................................................82
engine,
flooded........................................................ 13
idle speed.................................................... 48
number...................................................... 134
oil................................................................ 36
pinging........................................................ 34
starting ........................................................ 13
stop button .................................................. 14
stopping ...................................................... 14
won’t start................................................... 13
environment, protecting................................. 130
filter,
air................................................................ 43
oil................................................................ 37
flooded engine, starting ................................... 13
fork,
front suspension adjustment ....................... 94
front suspension inspection ........................ 70
oil recommendation.................................... 72
front brake lever adjustment............................ 75
front suspension maintenance.......................... 70
fuel,
line.............................................................. 34
filter ............................................................ 35
recommendation ......................................... 34
refueling...................................................... 34
system......................................................... 34
oxygenated................................................ 140
tank capacity............................................... 34
valve ........................................................... 13
A
B
C
D
E
F
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Index 153
Index
gap, spark plug ................................................ 52
gasohol........................................................... 140
gasoline............................................................ 34
gearing ........................................................... 124
guidelines, suspension adjustment ................ 107
handlebar inspection........................................ 88
Honda,
contacting ................................................. 149
Rider’s Club ............................................. 151
service manual.......................................... 148
your dealer................................................ 150
identification, vehicle .................................... 134
idle speed, engine ............................................ 48
inspection, pre-ride............................................ 9
labels, safety ...................................................... 4
logbook, competition..................................... 141
maintenance,
additional procedures..................................88
after competition .........................................26
before & after competition..........................26
between motos & practice...........................26
component locations ...................................28
general competition.....................................22
importance ..................................................18
safety...........................................................19
schedule ......................................................20
manual, service ..............................................148
modifications......................................................3
oil,
engine..........................................................36
fork..............................................................72
transmission ................................................39
operating,
controls..........................................................5
instructions..................................................11
operation component locations ..........................6
optional,
muffler settings .........................................118
parts list.....................................................143
sprockets ...................................................124
oxygenated fuels ............................................140
pads, brake....................................................... 78
parts, optional ................................................ 143
personal fit adjustments................................. 126
pinging, engine ................................................ 34
plug, spark ....................................................... 52
pre-load, rear suspension ............................... 102
pre-ride inspection ............................................. 9
protective apparel .............................................. 2
G
H
I
L
M
O
P
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154 Index
Index
rear suspension maintenance ........................... 71
Rider’s Club Honda....................................... 151
riding,
basic operation............................................ 11
before............................................................ 7
important safety information........................ 2
safety precautions....................................... 19
safety,
a few words about ................Safety Messages
important information .................................. 2
important precautions................................... 2
labels............................................................. 4
maintenance................................................ 19
riding precautions......................................... 2
schedule, maintenance..................................... 20
seat................................................................... 29
serial numbers................................................ 134
service,
customer ................................................... 148
manuals..................................................... 151
spare parts...................................................... 145
spark knock...................................................... 34
spark plug,
maintenance................................................ 52
reading...................................................... 122
specifications .......................................... 135,136
spring pre-load, rear suspension.................... 102
starting,
engine ......................................................... 13
troubleshooting......................................... 131
steering stem inspection .................................. 88
stopping engine................................................ 14
storage ........................................................... 129
subframe .......................................................... 32
suspension,
front........................................................70,94
rear .......................................................71,102
suspension adjustment,
front.............................................................94
rear ............................................................102
for track conditions ...................................106
guidelines..................................................107
transmission oil ................................................39
tuning tips.......................................................110
throttle,
freeplay .......................................................46
inspection....................................................47
tires,
air pressure..................................................80
flat ...............................................................80
selection ......................................................81
tools................................................................145
torque specifications
carburetor ..................................................116
engine........................................................137
frame
..................................................138-139
transporting ....
................................................128
troubleshooting ..............................................131
tubes, replacing ................................................80
valve, fuel.........................................................13
valve clearance.................................................54
vehicle identification no. (VIN).....................134
washing your motorcycle ................................ 90
wheels .............................................................. 79
wiring diagram............................................... 146
R
S
T
V
W
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Quick Reference
Quick Reference
Quick Reference
The following is a brief, but important collection
of information you need to know about your
Honda. You’ll also find space to record important
notes.
The engine of your Honda can be the most
expensive component to repair. Proper
maintenance, especially the use of the
recommended fluids and filters, prevents
premature wear and damage.
Frequent causes of costly engine repairs are:
• Transmission oil & engine oil: insufficient
quantity, improper oil.
• Air cleaner: dirty, leaking because of improper
installation (poor seal).
How To Avoid Costly Repairs
Record important information here:
VIN
Engine No.
Owner's:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Dealer's:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Service Mgr.
Maintenance The maintenance schedule (page 21) lists service frequencies for:
each race or about 2.5 hours,
every 3 races or about 7.5 hours, and
every 6 races or about 15.0 hours
every 9 races or about 22.5 hours
Pre-ride Inspection Check the items listed on the Pre-ride inspection checklist each time before you ride (page 9):
Fuel/Capacity unleaded gasoline, pump octane number of 91 or higher
tank: 1.14 US gal (4.3
ℓ)
Engine Oil/Capacity Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil (USA & Canada), or Honda 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
0.62 US qt (0.59
ℓ) after draining and oil filter change
0.59 US qt (0.56
ℓ) after draining
Transmission Oil/
Capacity
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil (USA & Canada), or Honda 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
0.60 US qt (0.57
ℓ) after draining
Tires
CRF150R Front
70/100–17 40M
Rear
90/100–14 49M
AC DUNLOP MX71F
AC DUNLOP
MX71
CM
BRIDGESTONE
M23 CM
BRIDGESTONE
M22
CRF150RB
Front
70/100–19 42M
Rear
90/100–16 52M
AC DUNLOP MX71F AC DUNLOP MX71
CM
BRIDGESTONE
M61 CM
BRIDGESTONE
M58
Type bias-ply, tube
Tire Pressure (cold) Front: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Spark Plug Standard: CR8EH-9 (NGK), U24FER9 (DENSO)
Optional: CR9EH-9 (NGK), U27FER9 (DENSO)
Coolant ethylene glycol antifreeze (silicate-free) for aluminum engines in 50/50 solution with Pro Honda HP Coolant
or equivalent distilled water.
Drive Chain DID420DS3
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California Proposition 65 Warning
Operating, servicing and maintaining a passenger vehicle or off-road vehicle can expose you to
chemicals including engine exhaust, carbon monoxide, phthalates, and lead, which are known to the
State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. To minimize exposure,
avoid breathing exhaust, do not idle the engine except as necessary, service your vehicle in a well-
ventilated area and wear gloves or wash your hands frequently when servicing your vehicle. For more
information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/passenger-vehicle.
WARNING
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