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User Manual
- Owner's manual - (English, French, Spanish)
- Energy Guide - (English)
- INSTALLATION
- HOW TO USE
- MAINTENANCE
- TROUBLESHOOTING
Table of contents
OWNER’S MANUAL SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR
INSTALLATION
Removing/Assembling the Refrigerator Door Handles
Removing the Handles
- Loosen the set screws with a 3/32 in. Allen wrench and remove the handle.
- Loosen the mounting fasteners that connect to the refrigerator door and handle using a ¼ in. Allen wrench, remove the mounting fasteners.
Assembling the Handles
- Assemble the mounting fasteners at both ends of the handle using a ¼ in. Allen wrench.
- Place the handle on the door by fitting the handle footprints over the mounting fasteners and tightening the set screws with a 3/32 in. Allen wrench.
Connecting the Water Line
Before You Begin
This water line installation is not covered by the refrigerator warranty. Follow these instructions carefully to minimize the risk of expensive water damage.
Water hammer (water banging in the pipes) in house plumbing can cause damage to refrigerator parts and can lead to water leakage or flooding. Call a qualified plumber to correct water hammer before installing the water supply line to the refrigerator.
Water Pressure
You will need a cold water supply. The water pressure must be between 20 and 120 psi ( 138 – 827 kPa ) on models without a water filter and between 40 and 120 psi ( 276 – 827 kPa ) on models with a water filter. If the water pressure does not reach the minimum required pressure, a separate booster pump may be required for normal automatic icemaker and cool water dispensing operation.
If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply, this water line installation is not covered by the refrigerator warranty. Follow these instructions carefully to minimize the risk of expensive water damage.
If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 - 413 kPa, or less than 2.0~3.0 sec. to fill a cup of 7 oz capacity).
If the water pressure from the reverse osmosis system is less than 21 psi or 1.5 kgf/cm2 (takes more than 4.0 sec to fill a cup of 7 oz capacity):
- Check to see if the sediment filter in the reverse osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.
- Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill after heavy usage.
- If the issue concerning water pressure from reverse osmosis remains, call a licensed, qualified plumber.
- All installations must be in accordance with local plumbing code requirements.
Water Line Installation Instructions
1 SHUT OFF THE MAIN WATER SUPPLY
Turn on the nearest faucet to relieve the pressure on the line.
2 CHOOSE THE VALVE LOCATION
Choose a location for the valve that is easily accessible. It is best to connect into the side of a vertical water pipe. When it is necessary to connect into a horizontal water pipe, make the connection to the top or side, rather than at the bottom, to avoid drawing off any sediment from the water pipe.
3 DRILL THE HOLE FOR THE VALVE
Drill a ¼ in. hole in the water pipe using a sharp bit. Remove any burrs resulting from drilling the hole in the pipe. Be careful not to allow water to drain into the drill. Failure to drill a ¼ in. hole may result in reduced ice production or smaller cubes.
4 FASTEN THE SHUTOFF VALVE
Fasten the shutoff valve to the cold water pipe with the pipe clamp.
5 TIGHTEN THE PIPE CLAMP
6 ROUTE THE TUBING
Route the tubing between the cold water line and the refrigerator.
Route the tubing through a hole drilled in the wall or floor (behind the refrigerator or adjacent base cabinet) as close to the wall as possible.
7 CONNECT THE TUBING TO THE VALVE
Place the compression nut and ferrule (sleeve) for copper tubing onto the end of the tubing and connect it to the shutoff valve. Make sure the tubing is fully inserted into the valve. Tighten the compression nut securely.
8 FLUSH OUT THE TUBING
Turn the main water supply on and flush out the tubing until the water is clear.
Shut the water off at the water valve after about one quart of water has been flushed through the tubing.
9 CONNECT THE TUBING TO THE REFRIGERATOR
NOTE: Before making the connection to the refrigerator, be sure that the refrigerator power cord is not plugged into the wall outlet.
a. Remove the plastic flexible cap from the water valve.
b. Place the compression nut and ferrule (sleeve) onto the end of the tubing as shown.
c. Insert the end of the copper tubing into the connection as far as possible. While holding the tubing, tighten the fitting.
10 TURN THE WATER ON AT THE SHUTOFF VALVE
Tighten any connections that leak.
11 PLUG IN THE REFRIGERATOR
Arrange the coil of tubing so that it does not vibrate against the back of the refrigerator or against the wall. Push the refrigerator back to the wall.
12 START THE ICEMAKER
The icemaker will not begin to operate until it reaches its operating temperature of 15°F (–9°C) or below.
HOW TO USE
Control Panel
The refrigerator control functions as the thermostat for the entire appliance (refrigerator and freezer sections). The colder the setting, the longer the compressor will run to keep the temperature colder. The freezer control adjusts the cold air flow from the freezer to the refrigerator. Setting the freezer control to a lower temperature keeps more cold air in the freezer compartment to make it colder.
Airflow
Cold air circulates from the freezer to the fresh food section and back again through air vents in the wall dividing the two sections. Be sure not to block vents while packing your refrigerator. Doing so will restrict airflow and may cause the refrigerator temperature to become too warm or cause interior moisture buildup. (See air flow diagram below.)
Control Panel Features
* Depending on the model, some of the following functions may not be available.
Vertical Display
Horizontal Display
Automatic Icemaker
Ice is made in the automatic icemaker and sent to the dispenser. The icemaker will produce 7 cubes per cycle - approximately 70-120 cubes in a 24-hour period, depending on freezer compartment temperature, room temperature, number of door openings and other operating conditions.
- It takes about 12 to 24 hours for a newly installed refrigerator to begin making ice. Wait 72 hours for full ice production to occur.
- Ice making stops when the ice storage bin is full. When full, the ice bin holds approximately 6 to 8 (12-16 oz) glasses of ice.
- To turn off the automatic icemaker, set the Ice ON/OFF button on the display to Ice Off . To turn on the automatic icemaker, set the ON/OFF button on the display to Ice On .
When You Should Turn the Icemaker Off
Set the Ice ON/OFF Button to "Ice Off ":
- When the water supply will be shut o for several hours.
- When the ice bin is removed for more than one or two minutes.
- When the refrigerator will not be used for several days.
NOTE: The ice bin should be emptied when the Ice ON/OFF button is set to the Ice Off mode.
Normal Sounds You May Hear
NOTE: Keeping the Ice ON/OFF button set to the Ice On mode before the water line is connected can damage the icemaker.
- You will hear the sound of cubes dropping into the bin and water running in the pipes as the icemaker refills
Preparing for Vacation
- Set the Ice ON/OFF button to the Ice Off mode and shut off the water supply to the refrigerator.
NOTE: The ice bin should be emptied any time the Ice ON/OFF button is set to the Ice O mode.
- If the ambient temperature will drop below freezing, have a qualitified technician drain the water supply system to prevent serious property damage due to flooding caused by ruptured water lines or connections.
Power Failure
During a power failure, ice may drop into the freezer compartment. Remove the ice storage bin and discard all the ice. Dry the storage bin and reinstall it. Once power is restored, crushed ice will be selected by default.
NOTE: Do not dispense ice continuously for more than 30 sec. Depress and release the dispenser pad for cycles of 30 seconds ON and 60 seconds OFF.
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning
- Both the refrigerator and freezer sections defrost automatically; however, clean both sections about once a month to prevent odors.
- Wipe up spills immediately.
- Always unplug the refrigeration before cleaning.
General Cleaning Tips
- Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
- Remove all removable parts, such as shelves, crispers, etc.
- Use a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners.
- Hand wash, rinse and dry all surfaces thoroughly.
Exterior
Waxing external painted metal surfaces helps provide rust protection. Do not wax plastic parts. Wax painted metal surfaces at least twice a year using appliance wax (or auto paste wax). Apply wax with a clean, soft cloth.
For products with a stainless steel exterior, use a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners. Dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.
Inside Walls (allow freezer to warm up so the cloth will not stick)
To help remove odors, you can wash the inside of the refrigerator with a mixture of baking soda and warm water. Mix 2 tablespoons of baking soda to 1 quart of water (26 g soda to 1 liter water.) Be sure the baking soda is completely dissolved so it does not scratch the surfaces of the refrigerator.
Door Liners and Gaskets
Use a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use cleaning waxes, concentrated detergents, bleaches, or cleaners containing petroleum on plastic refrigerator parts.
Plastic Parts (covers and panels)
Use a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use window sprays, abrasive cleansers, or flammable fluids. These can scratch or damage the material.
Condenser Coils
Use a vacuum cleaner with an attachment to clean the condenser cover and vents. Do not remove the panel covering the condenser coil area.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Noises You Might Hear
| Noise | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Clicking | The defrost control will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control on some models) will also click when cycling on and off. | Normal Operation |
| Rattling | Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line on the back of the unit, or items stored on top of or around the refrigerator. | Normal Operation |
| Refrigerator is not resting solidly on the floor. | Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need to be adjusted. See the Door Alignment section. | |
| Refrigerator with linear compressor was jarred while running. | Normal Operation | |
| Whooshing | Evaporator fan motor is circulating air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. | Normal Operation |
| Air is being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan. | Normal Operation | |
| Gurgling | Refrigerant flowing through the cooling system. | Normal Operation |
| Popping | Contraction and expansion of the inside walls due to changes in temperature. | Normal Operation |
| Sizzling | Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle. | Normal Operation |
| Vibrating | If the side or back of the refrigerator is touching a cabinet or wall, some of the normal vibrations may make an audible sound. | To eliminate the noise, make sure that the sides and back cannot vibrate against any wall or cabinet. |
| Dripping | Water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. | Normal Operation |
| Pulsating or high-pitched sound | Your refrigerator is designed to run more effi ciently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high effi ciency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, but it is still more energy effi cient than previous models. While the refrigerator is running, it is normal to hear a pulsating or highpitched sound. | Normal Operation |
Before Calling for Service
Review this section before calling for service; doing so will save you both time and money.
Cooling
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator and Freezer section are not cooling. | The refrigerator control is set to OFF (some models). | Turn the control ON. Refer to the Setting the Controls section for proper temperature settings. |
| Refrigerator is set to Demo Mode | Demo Mode allows the lights and control display to work normally while disabling cooling, to save energy while the refrigerator is on the showroom floor. See the FAQs or the Setting the Controls section of this manual for instructions on how to disable Demo Mode. | |
| Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. | During the defrost cycle, the temperature of each compartment may rise slightly. Wait 30 minutes and confirm the proper temperature has been restored once the defrost cycle has completed. | |
| Refrigerator was recently installed. | It may take up to 24 hours for each compartment to reach the desired temperature. | |
| Refrigerator was recently relocated. | If the refrigerator was stored for a long period of time or moved on its side, it is necessary for the refrigerator to stand upright for 24 hours before connecting it to power. | |
| Cooling System runs too much. | Refrigerator is replacing an older model. | Modern refrigerators require more operating time but use less energy due to more efficient technology. |
| Refrigerator was recently plugged in or power restored. | The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to cool completely. | |
| The door is opened often or a large amount of food / hot food was added. | Adding food and opening the door warms the refrigerator, requiring the compressor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. (Refer to the Food Storage Guide.) | |
| Doors are not closed completely. | Firmly push the doors shut. If they will not shut all the way, see the Doors will not close completely or pop open section in Troubleshooting. | |
| Refrigerator is installed in a hot location. | The compressor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures (70°F) expect your compressor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more often. The refrigerator should not be operated above 110°F. | |
| Condenser / back cover is clogged. | Use a vacuum cleaner with an attachment to clean the condenser cover and vents. Do not remove the panel covering the condenser coil area. | |
| Refrigerator or Freezer section is too warm. | Refrigerator was recently installed. | It may take up to 24 hours for each compartment to reach the desired temperature. |
| The air vents are blocked. Cold air circulates from the freezer to the fresh food section and back again through air vents in the wall dividing the two sections. | Locate air vents by using your hand to sense airflow and move all packages that block vents and restrict airflow. Rearrange items to allow air to flow throughout the compartment. (Refer to the Airflow diagram in the UsingYour Refrigerator section.) | |
| Doors are opened often or for long periods of time. | When the doors are opened often or for long periods of time, warm, humid air enters the compartment. This raises the temperature and moisture level within the compartment.To lessen the effect, reduce the frequency and duration of door openings. | |
| A large amount of food or hot food was added to either compartment. | Adding food warms the compartment requiring the cooling system to run. Allowing hot food to cool to room temperature before putting it in the refrigerator will reduce this effect. | |
| Doors not closed correctly. | See the Doors will not close correctly or pop open section in Parts & FeaturesTroubleshooting. | |
| Temperature control is not set correctly | If the temperature is too warm, adjust the control one increment at a time and wait for the temperature to stabilize. Refer to the Setting the Controls section for more information | |
| Defrost cycle has recently completed. | During the defrost cycle, the temperature of each compartment may rise slightly and condensation may form on the back wall.Wait 30 minutes and confirm the proper temperature has been restored once the defrost cycle has completed. | |
| Refrigerator or Freezer section is too cold. | Incorrect temperature control settings. | If the temperature istoo cold, adjust the control one increment at a time and wait for the temperature to stabilize. Refer to the Setting the Controls section for more information. |
| Items in the Cheese & Butter and Condiment bins are not as cool as other items in the refrigerator. | The Cheese & Butter and Condiment bins will be slightly warmer than the refrigerator compartment. | This is normal. Items that you would like to keep cooler should be stored in the refrigerator section. |
| Interior moisture buildup. | Doors are opened often or for long periods of time. | When the doors are opened often or for long periods of time, warm, humid air enters the compartment. This raises the temperature and moisture level within the compartment. To lessen the effect, reduce the frequency and duration of door openings. |
| Doors not closed correctly. | See the Doors will not close correctly section in the Troubleshooting section. | |
| Weather is humid. | Humid weather allows additional moisture to enter the compartments when the doors are opened leading to condensation or frost. Maintaining a reasonable level of humidity in the home will help to control the amount of moisture that can enter the compartments. | |
| Defrost cycle recently completed. | During the defrost cycle, the temperature of each compartment may raise slightly and condensation may form on the back wall. Wait 30 minutes and confirm that the proper temperature has been restored once the defrost cycle has completed. | |
| Food is not packaged correctly. | Food stored uncovered or unwrapped, and damp containers can lead to moisture accumulation within each compartment. Wipe all containers dry and store food in sealed packaging to prevent condensation and frost. | |
| Food is freezing in the refrigerator compartment. | Food with high water content was placed near an air vent. | Rearrange items with high water content away from air vents. |
| Refrigerator temperature control is set incorrectly. | If the temperature is too cold, adjust the control one increment at a time and wait for the temperature to stabilize. Refer to the Setting the Controls section for more information. | |
| Refrigerator is installed in a cold location. | When the refrigerator is operated in temperatures below 41°F (5°C), food can freeze in the refrigerator compartment. The refrigerator should not be operated in temperatures below 55°F (13°C). | |
| Frost or ice crystals form on frozen food (outside of package). | Door is opened frequently or for long periods of time. | When the doors are opened often or for long periods of time, warm, humid air enters the compartment. This raises the temperature and moisture level within the compartment. Increased moisture will lead to frost and condensation. To lessen the effect, reduce the frequency and duration of door openings. |
| Door is not closing properly. | Refer to the Doors will not close correctly or pop open section in the Troubleshooting section. |
Cooling/Ice & Water
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Frost or ice crystals on frozen food (inside of sealed package). | Condensation from food with a high water content has frozen inside of the food package. | This is normal for food items with a high water content. |
| Food has been left in the freezer for a long period of time. | Do not store food items with high water content in the freezer for a long period of time. | |
| Icemaker is not making enough ice. | Demand exceeds ice storage capacity. | The icemaker will produce approximately 70-120 cubes in a 24 hour period. |
| House water supply is not connected, valve is not turned on fully, or valve is clogged. | Connect the refrigerator to a cold water supply with adequate pressure and turn the water shutoff valve fully open. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber | |
| Water filter has been exhausted. | Replacing the water filter is recommended:
| |
| Low house water supply pressure | The water pressure must be between 20 and 120 psi (138 - 827 kPa) on models without a water filter and between 40 and 120 psi (276 – 827 kPa) on models with a water filter. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber. | |
| Reverse Osmosis filtration system is used. | Reverse osmosis filtration systems can reduce the water pressure below the minimum amount and result in icemaker issues. (Refer to water Pressure section.) | |
| Tubing connecting refrigerator to house supply valve is kinked. | The tubing can kink when the refrigerator is moved during installation or cleaning resulting in reduced water flow. Straighten or repair the water supply line and arrange it to prevent future kinks. | |
| Doors are opened often or for long periods of time. | If the doors of the unit are opened often, ambient air will warm the refrigerator which will prevent the unit from maintaining the set temperature. Lowering the refrigerator temperature can help, as well as not opening the doors as frequently. | |
| Doors are not closed completely. | If the doors are not properly closed, ice production will be affected. See the Doors will not close completely or pop open section in Parts & Features Troubleshooting for more information. | |
| The temperature setting for the freezer is too warm. | The recommended temperature for the freezer compartment for normal ice production is 0°F. If the freezer temperature is warmer, ice production will be affected. |
Ice & Water
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Icemaker is not making enough ice (continued). | Refrigerator was recently installed or icemaker recently connected. | It may take up to 24 hours for each compartment to reach the desired temperature and for the icemaker to begin making ice. |
| Icemaker not turned on. | Locate the icemaker ON/OFF button on the display and confirm that it is set to the Ice On mode. | |
| The ice detecting sensor is obstructed. | Foreign substances or frost on the ice-detecting sensor can interrupt ice production. Make sure that the sensor area is clean at all times for proper operation. | |
| The refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the supply shutoff valve is not turned on | Connect the refrigerator to the water supply and turn the water shutoff valve fully open. | |
| Icemaker shutoff (arm or sensor) obstructed. | If your icemaker is equipped with an ice shutoff arm, make sure that the arm moves freely. If your icemaker is equipped with the electronic ice shutoff sensor, make sure that there is a clear path between the two sensors. | |
| Ice has bad taste or odor. | Water supply contains minerals such as sulfur. | A water filter may need to be installed to eliminate taste and odor problems. NOTE: In some cases, a filter may not help. It may not be possible to remove all minerals/odor/taste in all water supplies. |
| Icemaker was recently installed. | Ice that has been stored for too long will shrink, become cloudy, and may develop a stale taste. Throw away old ice and make a new supply. | |
| The food has not been stored properly in either compartment. | Rewrap the food. Odors may migrate to the ice if food is not wrapped properly | |
| The interior of the refrigerator needs to be cleaned. | See the Care and Cleaning section for more information. | |
| The ice storage bin needs to be cleaned. | Empty and wash the bin (discard old cubes). Make sure that the bin is completely dry before reinstalling it. | |
| Icemaker is making too much ice. | Icemaker shuto (arm/sensor) is obstructed | Empty the ice bin. If your icemaker is equipped with an ice shuto arm, make sure that the arm moves freely. If your icemaker is equipped with the electronic ice shuto sensor, make sure that there is a clear path between the two sensors. Reinstall the ice bin and wait 24 hours to confirm proper operation. |
| Ice is not dispensing. | Doors are not closed completely. | Ice will not dispense if any of the refrigerator doors are left open. |
| Infrequent use of the dispenser. | Infrequent use of the ice dispenser will cause the cubes to stick together over time, which will prevent them from properly dispensing. Check the ice bin for ice cubes clumping/sticking together. If they are, break up the ice cubes to allow for proper operation | |
| The delivery chute is clogged with frost or ice fragments. | Eliminate the frost or ice fragments by removing the ice bin and clearing the chute with a plastic utensil. Dispensing cubed ice can also help prevent frost or ice fragment buildup. | |
| The dispenser display is locked. | Press and hold the Lock button for three seconds to unlock the control panel and dispenser. | |
| Ice bin is empty. | It may take up to 24 hours for each compartment to reach the desired temperature and for the icemaker to begin making ice. Make sure that the shutoff (arm/sensor) is not obstructed. Once the ice supply in the bin has been completely exhausted, it may take up to 90 minutes before additional ice is available, and approximately 24 hours to completely refill the bin | |
| Water is dispensing slowly. | Water filter has been exhausted. | Replacing the water filter is recommended:
|
| Reverse osmosis filtration system is used. | Reverse osmosis filtration systems can reduce the water pressure below the minimum amount and result in icemaker issues. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber or install a booster pump to compensate for the low pressure. | |
| Low house water supply pressure. | The water pressure must be between 20 and 120 psi (138 - 827 kPa) on models without a water filter and between 40 and 120 psi (276 – 827 kPa) on models with a water filter. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber or install a booster pump to compensate for the low pressure. | |
| Water is not dispensing. | New installation or water line recently connected. | Dispense 2.5 gallons of water (flush for approximately 5 minutes) to remove trapped air and contaminants from the system. Do not dispense the entire 2.5 gallon amount continuously. Depress and release the dispenser pad for cycles of 30 seconds ON and 60 seconds OFF |
| The dispenser panel is locked. | Press and hold the Lock button for three seconds to unlock the control panel and dispenser. | |
| Refrigerator or freezer doors are not closed properly. | Water will not dispense if any of the refrigerator doors are left open. | |
| Water filter has been recently removed or replaced. | After the water filter is replaced, dispense 2.5 gallons of water (flush for approximately 5 minutes) to remove trapped air and contaminants from the system. Do not dispense the entire 2.5 gallon amount continuously. Depress and release the dispenser pad for cycles of 30 seconds ON and 60 seconds OFF | |
| Tubing connecting refrigerator to house supply valve is kinked. | The tubing can kink when the refrigerator is moved during installation or cleaning resulting in reduced water flow. Straighten or repair the water supply line and arrange it to prevent future kinks. | |
| The house water supply is not connected, the valve is not turned on fully, or the valve is clogged. | Connect the refrigerator to the water supply and turn the water shutoff valve fully open. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber | |
| Dispensing warm water. | Refrigerator was recently installed. | Allow 24 hours after installation for the water storage tank to cool completely. |
| The water dispenser has been used recently and the storage tank was exhausted. | Depending on your specific model, the water storage capacity will range from approximately 20 to 30 oz. | |
| Dispenser has not been used for several hours. | If the dispenser has not been used for several hours, the first glass dispensed may be warm. Discard the first 10 oz. | |
| Refrigerator is connected to the hot water supply. | Make sure that the refrigerator is connected to a cold water pipe. WARNING: Connecting the refrigerator to a hot water line may damage the icemaker. |
Ice & Water/Parts & Features
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Water has bad taste or odor. | Water supply contains minerals such as sulfur. | A water filter may need to be installed to eliminate taste and odor problems. |
| Water filter has been exhausted. | Replacing the water filter is recommended:
| |
| Refrigerator was recently installed. | Dispense 2.5 gallons of water (flush for approximately 5 minutes) to remove trapped air and contaminantsfrom the system. Do not dispense the entire 2.5 gallon amount continuously. Depress and release the dispenser pad for cycles of 30 seconds ON and 60 seconds OFF | |
| Doors will not close correctly or pop open. | Food packages are blocking the door open. | Rearrange food containers to clear the door and door shelves. |
| Ice bin, crisper cover, pans, shelves, door bins, or baskets are out of position. | Push bins all the way in and put crisper cover, pans, shelves and baskets into their correct positions. See the UsingYour Refrigerator section for more information. | |
| The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced. | Remove and replace the doors according to the Removing and Replacing Refrigerator Handles and Doors section. | |
| Refrigerator is not leveled properly. | See Door Alignment in the Refrigeration Installation section to level refrigerator. | |
| Doors are difficult to open. | The gaskets are dirty or sticky. | Clean the gaskets and the surfaces that they touch. Rub a thin coat of appliance polish or kitchen wax on the gaskets after cleaning. |
| Door was recently closed. | When you open the door, warmer air enters the refrigerator. As the warm air cools, it can create a vacuum. If the door is hard to open, wait one minute to allow the air pressure to equalize, then see if it opens more easily. | |
| Refrigerator wobbles or seems unstable. | Leveling legs are not adjusted properly. | Refer to the Leveling and Door Alignment section. |
| Floor is not level. | It may be necessary to add shims under the leveling legs or rollers to complete installation. | |
| Lights do not work. | LED interior lighting failure. | The lamps are LED interior lighting, and service should be performed by a qualified technician. |
Parts & Features
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| The interior of the refrigerator is covered with dust or soot. | The refrigerator is located near a fire source, such as a fireplace, chimney, or candle. | Make sure that the refrigerator is not located near a fire source, such as a fireplace, chimney or candle. |
See other models: GML936NSHV LUTE4619SN LGX210 GSX960MTAZ LSXS26386S
