Instruction Manual
3
TABLE OF CONTENTS
NAME OF PARTS
Details of machine 6
ACCESSORIES
Standard 8
Needle Information 8
HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER
Principal Parts behind the Looper Cover 9
PREPARATION TO SEWING
Power Switch 9
Foot Controller 10
PREPARATION FOR THREADING
Setting up the Retractable thread stand 11
Spool net 11
Spool Cap 11
HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES
Needle Position 12
To Remove Needle(s) 12
To Insert Needle(s) 13
Stitch Overview
THREADING THE MACHINE
Threading Diagram Chainstitch 15
Threading Diagram Coverstitch 15
Threading the Chainstitch/Coverstitch Looper
(Violet) 16
Threading the Right Coverstitch Needle (Blue) 18
Threading the Center Coverstitch/Chainstitch
Needle (Green) 20
Threading the Coverstitch Needle (Yellow) 22
HOW TO CHANGE THREADS
Tie on method 24
HOW TO ADJUST
Stitch lenght dial 25
Presser Foot pressure 25
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Gathered Coverstitch (1–2.0) 26
Stretch Coverstitch (1
–0.6) 26
HOW TO SEW A CHAINSTITCH
2–Thread Chainstitch 27
HOW TO SEW A COVERSTITCH
Machine set up 28
Additional Information About Coverstitch 29
3–Thread Coverstitch 30
4–Thread Coverstitch 31
SECURING THE SEAM END
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Cleaning the Machine 33
Oiling the Machine 33
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Snap–On Type Presser Foot 34
Optional Cover Presser Feet 35
TROUBLESHOOTING
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART
SPECIFICATION
Technical Summary 38
4
IMPORTANT
WARNING!
DANGER!
As a protection against burns, fire, electric
shock or injury to persons:
1. Use this machine only for purposes
as described in this manual. Use
only attachments, accessories and
parts recommended by the
manufacturer.
2. Do not allow this machine to be
used as a toy. Close attention is
necessary when this machine is
used by or near children. The
machine is not intended for use by
persons (and children) with reduced
physical, sensory or mental
capabilities or lack of experience
and knowledge. Unless they have
been given supervision or instruction
concerning use of the machine by a
person responsible for their safety.
To ensure children do not play with
Precautions should always be followed,
including the following:
Read all the instructions before using this
machine.
In general when the machine is not in
use, it should be disconnected from
the electricity supply.
the machine they must be
supervised.
Never operate this machine if:
⦁
the cord or the plug are damaged,
⦁
it is not working properly,
⦁
it has been dropped or damaged,
⦁
it has fallen into water.
3. Return the machine to your local
authorized BERNINA dealer for
examination or repair.
4. Never operate the machine with any
air openings blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the machine
free from the accumulation of lint,
dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving
parts. Special care is required
around the sewing needle and the
knife.
6. Never insert any objects into any
openings on the machine.
7. Do not use the machine outdoors.
8. Do not operate the machine where
aerosol products (sprays) or oxygen
are being used.
9. Do not pull or push the fabric while
stitching. This can result in needle
breakage.
10. Switch the machine off «0» when
making any adjustments in the
needle area, such as threading the
needle, changing the needle,
threading the looper, or changing
the presser foot.
11. Always unplug the machine from the
electrical outlet when removing
covers, when covers are opened to
raise the knife or thread the loopers,
when lubricating or when making
any other user servicing adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
12. Do not use bent needles.
As a protection against electrical shock:
1. The machine should never be left
unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this machine from
the electrical outlet after using and
before cleaning.
3. LED Radiation. Do not view directly
with optical instruments. Class 1M
LED product.
5
In a double–insulated product two
systems of insulation are provided instead
of grounding. No grounding means is
provided on a double–insulated product,
nor should a means for grounding be
added to the product. Servicing a double–
insulated product requires extreme care
and knowledge of the system and should
be done only by qualified service
personnel. Replacement parts for a
double–insulated product must be
identical to the original parts in the
product. A double–insulated product is
marked with the words: «Double
insulation» or «Double insulated».
The symbol
may also mark such a
product.
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement rea-
sons, the machine‘s features, parts and
accessory are subject to unannounced
changes and alterations at any time. The
accessory included can differ from country
to country.
SERVICING OF DOU-
BLE–INSULATED
PRODUCTS
13. Always use the original BERNINA
stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate
can cause needle breakage.
14. This machine is provided with double
insulation (except for USA and
Canada). Use only original spare
parts. See instructions for servicing
of double–insulated products.
15. Use only foot controller provided
with this machine. (Type 4C–316B
for USA & CANADA only).
Europe only: This appliance may only be
used by children over eight and by persons
with reduced physical, sensory or mental
capabilities or by persons who lack experi-
ence and knowledge of how to operate the
machine under supervision, after instruc-
tion on how to use the equipment safely
and once they have understood the poten-
tial dangers. Children shall not play with
the appliance. Cleaning and user mainte-
nance shall not be made by children with-
out supervision.
Outside of Europe (except for the USA and
Canada): This appliance may only be used
by persons (including children) with
reduced physical, sensory or mental capa-
bilities or by persons who lack experience
and knowledge of how to operate the
machine under supervision and after
instruction on how to use the equipment
safely by a person responsible for their
safety. Children should be supervised to
ensure that they do not play with the appli-
ance.
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
PLEASE NOTE:
If the machine is stored in a cold room, it
should be brought to a warm room about
one hour before use.
CAUTION:
This machine is intended for household
use only. If used intensively or commer-
cially, regular cleaning and especially
attentive care is required.
Signs of wear and tear owing to intensive
or commercial use are not covered auto-
matically, even if they occur within the
warranty period. The decision on how to
deal with any such cases rests with the
local authorised servicing staff.
6
1
1
2
2
4
4
7
7
8
8
9
9
1
1
0
0
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
3
1
1
4
4
1
1
2
2
3
3
5
5
6
6
1
1
5
5
NAME OF PARTS
Details of machine
Retractable thread stand
Carrying handle
Cover left needle thread tension dial (yellow)
Cover center needle thread tension dial (green)
Cover right needle thread tension dial (blue)
Chain stitch looper thread tension dial (violet)
Stitch plate
Sewing table
Looper cover
Power / Light switch
Stitch length dial
Handwheel
Thread stand
Spool stabilizer
Spool pin
7
16
17
18
19
Presser foot lifter
Differential feed dial
Presser foot pressure wheel
Standard presser foot Coverstitch
8
7
11
10
6
98
12
3
5
4
ACCESSORIES
Standard
Needle Information
Screw driver (large size)
Oiler
Spool net (4x)
Spool cap (4x)
Brush
Needle set (ELx705)*
Needle Threader / inserter
Allen screw driver (small)
Tweezers
Spool stabilizer (4x)
Dust cover
This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle
(ELx705).
Do not attempt to use a standard household
sewing machine needle of any size or type in
this overlock.
Needle ELx705 size 80/12 is furnished with the
machine.
Only use needles of system ELx705 sizes 70/10
- 90/14.
9
OFF
ON
2
1
1
2
OFF
ON
2
1
1
2
OFF
ON
2
1
1
2
Principal Parts behind the Looper
Cover
PREPARATION TO SEWING
HOW TO OPEN LOOPER
COVER
(1) Standard presser foot
(2) Chainstich /Coverstitch looper
Power Switch
– Connect the controller/electric plug to the
machine receptacle.
– Plug power line into electric outlet.
– Push " l " mark side to turn "ON"
– Push "O" mark side to turn "OFF"
1. Push the looper cover to the right as far as it will
go.
2. Pull looper cover down toward you.
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
CAUTION:
Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.
10
OFF
ON
2
1
1
2
CAUTION:
Use only foot controller provided with this
machine. (Type 4C–316B for USA & CANADA
only). Be sure to make reference to “Warning”
on following Page.
• Polarized plug information
(FOR USA & CANADA ONLY)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the
plug.
If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to
install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any
way.
CAUTION:
– Be sure that the electrical voltage of the
electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as
the rated voltage of the motor.
– Handle the foot controller with care and avoid
dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place
anything on top of it when not in use.
– Disconnect the power line plug from the
electric outlet when changing needles,
presser feet or when leaving the machine
unattended. This eliminates the possibility of
starting the machine by accidentally pressing
the controller.
Foot Controller
– To run the machine and control the speed,
press the controller.
– The harder you press, the faster the machine
will sew.
– To stop the machine from sewing, remove your
foot from the controller
11
PREPARATION FOR
THREADING
Setting up the Retractable thread
stand
– Take out the retractable thread stand from the
top of Styrofoam, and insert it as shown on the
left illustration.
– This machine is shipped with the retractable
thread stand on the top of styrofoam.
– Fully extend the retractable thread stand.
– The two joints on the telescope will click into
place when they are correctly positioned.
– Center the retractable thread stand above the
spool pins.
– Place thread over the cone adapters on the
spool pins.
Spool net
When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the
cone, slip the spool net (1) furnished with the machine
over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving
the thread end hanging free at the top the spool net.
Spool Cap
When using a regular thread spool, fit the spool cap
(2) supplied with the machine onto the thread spool
(3).
3
2
1
12
HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT
NEEDLES
Needle Position
– With this machines, three needles can be
inserted to the Needle holder as shown.
– The Stitch overview refers to different needle
positions by illustrating the Needle holder.
C
D
E
D
DCE
E
D
C
C
D
E
1
2
3
C
D
E
D
DCE
E
D
C
C
D
E
1
2
3
PLEASE NOTE:
When all coverstitch needles are inserted, the
left needle will be slightly higher than the others.
To Remove Needle(s)
– Turn the hand wheel counterclockwise until the
needles are at their highest position.
– Hold the needle to be removed with the needle
holder (stored in the looper cover).
– Loosen the setscrew and remove the needle.
(C) Left Coverstitch Needle (LC)
(D) Center Coverstitch Needle (CC)
(E) Right Coverstitch Needle (RC)
CAUTION:
After removing the specific needle which is not
currently to be used for sewing, remember to
fasten the set screw in the screw hole of the
Needle holder and to just fasten tight into the
hole.
Please do not over–tighten the screw into the
hole or the Needle holder will be damaged.
CAUTION:
Be sure to disconnect the machine from the
electric outlet before removing needle(s).
13
To Insert Needle(s)
– Hold the needle with the flat surface (1) to the
back.
– Insert the needle into the needle socket as far
as it will go.
– When inserting a needle, if you first lower it
down into the hole in the stitch plate it will line
up with the needle socket. Then direct it
upwards.
This machine uses ELx705 needles.
Do not use Standard Household Needles.
C
D
E
D
DCE
E
D
C
C
D
E
1
2
3
PLEASE NOTE:
When inserting needles into a sockets (C-E) it
is necessary to loosen
(3) all Allen Screws.
After inserting the needles equally tighten all
Screws
(2).
14
Stitch Type
(BERNINA Stitch Number)
Suggested Machine Settings Thread Tension
SL DF NP Yellow Green Blue Violet
16 2–Thread Chainstitch 3 1 – 2.5 – 5.5
21 4–Thread Coverstitch 3 1
4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
22 3–Thread Coverstitch wide 3 1
4.0 – 4.0 4.0
23 3–Thread Coverstitch narrow 3 1
4.0 4.0 – 4.0
The thread tension becomes tighter as the dials are tumed to higher numbers. The tension settings shown on
this page as well as throughout the Instruction book are suggested guides. Adjust thread tensions to suit the
fabric and size of thread of thread used. For best results make tension adjustments in small increments of no
greater than half a number at a time.
– When sewing chainstitches, set stitch length to over 2 mm.
– When sewing coverstitches, set stitch length to over "•" (2.5 mm).
STITCH OVERVIEW
This machine is capable of producing 4 types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions,
threading methods, tension adjustment.
Stitch Type Use
Page
16 2–Thread Chainstitch
1-needle 2-Thread straight stitch is used for construction
or decorative stitching.
27
21 4–Thread Coverstitch
3-needle, 4-Thread coverstitch is suitable for stretchy
fabrics such as knits, etc.
A triple seam is formed by using left, middle, and right
needles.
31
22 3–Thread Coverstitch wide
2-needle, 3-Thread coverstitch is suitable for stretchy
fabrics such as knits, etc.
A wide seam is formed by using left and right needles.
30
23 3–Thread Coverstitch narrow
2-needle, 3-Thread coverstitch is suitable for stretchy
fabrics such as knits, etc.
A narrow seam is formed by using left and center
needles.
30
Suggested Machine Setting
SL = Stitchlength
DF = Differential feed dial
NP = Needleposition
Thread Tension Color Code
yellow = (LC)
green = (CC)
blue = (RC)
violet = (CL)
15
THREADING THE MACHINE
Threading Diagram Chainstitch
• Chainstitches
– A color coded threading diagram is located
inside the looper cover for quick reference.
– Thread the machine in the order
(1)–(2).
Threading Diagram Coverstitch
• Coverstitch
– A color coded threading diagram is located
inside the looper cover for quick reference.
– Thread the machine in the order
(1)–(4).
• Tension Color Code
(1)
Chain stitch looper thread (Violet)
(2) Chain stitch needle thread (Green)
(5) Topside of fabric
(6) Underside of fabric
• Tension Color Code
(1)
Chain stitch looper thread (Violet)
(2) Right Coverstitch Needle (Blue)
(3) Center Coverstitch Needle (Green)
(4) Left Coverstitch Needle (Yellow)
(5) Topside of fabric
(6) Underside of fabric
2
12
5
6
1
1
4
3
2
5
6
1
2
3
4
2
12
5
6
1
1
4
3
2
5
6
1
2
3
4
16
Threading the Chainstitch/
Coverstitch Looper (Violet)
– Raise the presser foot to open the tension
discs.
– Thread the chainstitch/coverstitch looper as
indicated
(1)–(11).
9
10
11
2
3
8
6
4
5
7
1
1
2
2
3
3
9
10
11
2
3
8
6
4
5
7
1
1
2
2
3
3
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
– Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide
(1).
– Thread the pre-tension guide by pulling the
thread towards the left until it slips under guide
(2). Then pull thread along the right side of pre-
tension as illustrated.
– While holding thread with fingers, pass it
between the tension discs and pull thread down
to make certain it is properly located in between
the tension discs
(3).
17
8
7
6
9
10
11
11
C
10
D
B
A
4
5
8
7
6
9
10
11
11
C
10
D
B
A
4
5
8
7
6
9
10
11
11
C
10
D
B
A
4
5
– Turn the hand wheel toward you until the
chainstitch looper extends out 10mm from the
needle plate edge.
– Thread the looper area of the machine following
the violet color–coded thread guides
(4)–(11).
– Place the thread with the point of the tweezers
through threading guide
(4).
– Place the thread with the point of the tweezers
through the front slot of threading guide
(5).
– Place the thread with the point of the tweezers
through threading guide
(6-9).
– Thread the looper eye
(A) from front to back.
– Pull about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread through
the looper.
– Position thread into V cutout
(B) on threader.
– Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull
Threader lever
(C) up into place (D).
PLEASE NOTE:
Use of tweezers in the looper cover will make
needle eye threading easy.
18
Threading the Right Coverstitch
Needle (Blue)
(E on Needle holder)
– Raise the presser foot to open the tension
discs.
– Thread the Right Coverstitch needle as
indicated
(1)–(10).
3
2
3
4
1
1
2
2
5
6
7
8
9
3
10
3
2
3
4
1
1
2
2
5
6
7
8
9
3
10
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
– Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide
(1).
– Thread the pre-tension guide by pulling the
thread towards the right until it slips under guide
(2). Then pull thread along the right side of pre-
tension as illustrated.
– While holding thread with fingers, pass it
between the tension discs and pull thread down
to make certain it is properly located in between
the tension discs
(3).
19
2
3
4
1
5
6
7
8
9
10
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
10
9
2
3
4
1
5
6
7
8
9
10
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
10
9
– Continue to thread points (4)–(9).
– Before threading eye of needle, make sure
thread is in front of thread guide located on the
bottom of Needle holder for Coverstitch.
– Thread the eye of the right needle
(10).
PLEASE NOTE:
Slide thread into rear slot on thread guide (5).
Slip the thread into the slot of the Take–up Lever
Cover
(6).
Slip the thread into the right slots for thread
guides
(7-9).
PLEASE NOTE:
Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make
needle eye threading easy.
– Draw about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread through
needle eye towards the rear of the machine.
– Place the thread to the back, under the presser
foot.
20
Threading the Center Coverstitch/
Chainstitch Needle (Green)
(D on Needle holder)
– Raise the presser foot to open the tension
discs.
– Thread the Center Coverstitch/Chainstitch
needle as indicated
(1)–(10).
2
3
4
1
5
6
7
8
9
10
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
10
9
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
3
1
2
2
3
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
– Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide
(1).
– Thread the pre-tension guide by pulling the
thread towards the right until it slips under guide
(2). Then pull thread along the right side of pre-
tension as illustrated.
– While holding thread with fingers, pass it
between the tension discs and pull thread down
to make certain it is properly located in between
the tension discs
(3).
21
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
3
1
2
2
3
2
3
4
1
1
2
2
5
6
7
8
9
10
10
9
– Continue to thread points (4)–(9)
– Before threading eye of needle, make sure
thread is in front of thread guide located on the
bottom of Needle holder for Coverstitch.
– Thread the eye of the middle needle
(10).
PLEASE NOTE:
Slide thread into middle slot on thread guide (5).
Slip the thread into the slot of the Take–up Lever
Cover
(6).
Slip the thread into the middle slots for thread
guides
(7-9).
PLEASE NOTE:
Use of tweezers in the looper cover will make
needle eye threading easy.
– Draw about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread through
needle eye towards the rear of the machine.
– Place the thread to the back, under the presser
foot.
22
Threading the Coverstitch Needle
(Yellow)
(C on Needle holder)
– Raise the presser foot to open the tension
discs.
– Thread the Center Coverstitch/chainstitch
needle as indicated
(1)–(10).
2
3
4
1
1
2
2
5
6
7
8
9
10
10
9
2
3
4
1
1
2
2
5
6
7
8
9
10
10
9
3
3
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
10
9
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
– Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide
(1).
– Thread the pre-tension guide by pulling the
thread towards the right until it slips under guide
(2).
Then pull thread along the right side of pre-
tension as illustrated.
– While holding thread with fingers, pass it
between the tension discs and pull thread down
to make certain it is properly located in between
the tension discs
(3).
23
3
3
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
10
9
3
3
6
7
8
10
5
4
9
10
9
– Continue to thread points (4)–(9).
– Before threading eye of needle, make sure
thread is in front of thread guide located on the
bottom of Needle holder for Coverstitch.
– Thread the eye of the left needle
(10).
PLEASE NOTE:
Slide thread into front slot on thread guide (5).
Slip the thread into the slot of the Take–up Lever
Cover
(6).
Slip the thread into the left slots for thread
guides
(7-9).
PLEASE NOTE:
Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make
needle eye threading easy.
– Draw about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread through
needle eye towards the rear of the machine.
– Place the thread to the back, left under the
presser foot.
24
HOW TO CHANGE THREADS
Tie on method
– To change thread type or color, clip thread near
the spool.
– Place new thread on stand.
– Tie new thread and old thread ends together
with a square knot. Clip thread tails to 2–3cm
(1 inch) length. If clipped too short, threads may
come untied.
– Firmly pull both thread to test knot security.
– Raise the presser foot to open the tension
discs.
– Pull the threads through the machine one at a
time.
– If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on
thread guides or looping under thread stand.
– When pulling thread through the needles,
STOP when the knot is in front of the needle.
– Cut the knot and thread the threads in the
needle eye.
25
1
2
●
3
HOW TO ADJUST
Stitch lenght dial
– The stitch length dial should be set on the "•"
setting for most sewing conditions.
– Adjust the stitch length to
• – 4 when sewing
heavy weight fabrics.
– Adjust the stitch length to 2 – 4 when sewing
highly stretchy fabrics.
1
2
●
3
Presser Foot pressure
The presser foot pressure of this machine is pre–
adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium
weight fabrics.
Most of the materials do not require adjustment of
presser foot pressure. However, there are some
instances where adjustment is necessary, such as
when sewing light weight and heavy weight fabrics.
In such case, "•" for normal, "L" for the lightest
pressure, and "H" for the heaviest.
– For light weight fabric decrease the pressure.
– For heavy weight fabric increase the pressure.
– Testsew to define the optimal pressure for your
sewing project.
26
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
– Differential feed is a system which "stretches"
or “gathers" the fabric, when the amount of feed
of front feed dogs in relation to the rear feed
dogs is changed.
– The differential feed ratio ranges from 0.6–2.0.
Adjustment is made by means of the differential
feed dial at left.
– Use of differential feed is very effective in
overedging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the
bias.
– Setting "1" is differential feed dial setting for
ratio 1:1.
Gathered Coverstitch (1–2.0)
• To set the dierential feed dial for gathe-
ring
– Set differential feed dial above setting "1".
– Setting of adjusting dial depends on material
being sewn as well as the amount of desired
gather.
– Therefore set dial to suit the fabric and test sew
before sewing your garment.
Stretch Coverstitch (1–0.6)
• To set the dierential feed dial for
stretch
– Set differential feed dial between setting "0.6" -
"1".
27
2
1
2
1
25mm
(1")
1
2
23456
HOW TO SEW A CHAINSTITCH
2–Thread Chainstitch
• Correct balance
– Set each tension dial to recommended setting
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
• How to balance the thread tension
When the chainstitch needle thread tension is too
loose;
– Turn the needle thread tension dial (green)
toward a higher number.
– Or, turn the chainstitch looper thread tension
dial (violet) toward a lower number.
• How to sew
The chainstitch is sewn with 2 threads, one needle
and one looper.
• Start and end of sewing
– When starting to sew, pull the thread chain
lightly to the rear of machine until the needle
penetrates the fabric.
– When starting to sew after threading the
machine, sew 2–3 cm on a scrap fabric and
chain–off to make a chain.
– At end of sewing, pull the fabric lightly to the
rear of machine and chain–off.
PLEASE NOTE:
– These are suggested tension settings only.
– Tension settings are effected by;
1. Type and thickness of fabric
2. Needle size
3. Size, type and fiber content of thread
– Stitch length for chainstitch should be set at
over 2 mm.
2–Thread Chainstitch
Medium weight
fabric
Thread tension dial
Yellow Green Blue Violet
Polyester
2.5 5.5
Thread Color Code refer page 15.
NP
Refer page 12
SL
2–4
Refer page 25
28
1
( )
1"
25mm
234
2
65
E
D
C
D
1
( )
1"
25mm
234
2
65
E
D
C
D
1
( )
1"
25mm
234
2
65
E
D
C
D
HOW TO SEW A COVERSTITCH
– This machine can produce a 3–thread 5.6 mm
wide bottom coverstitch.
– The coverstitch can be used for covering,
binding or top–stitching necklines and for
hemming the bottom, of T–shirts and sweat
suits, etc. in addition to flat joining seams (plain
seaming).
– The coverstitch is most suitable for stretchy
fabrics such as knit.
– It also can be used in woven fabrics such as
denim, but careful attention must be paid to the
tension settings or there is the possibility of
thread breakage and or skipping.
– If you experience skipping or thread breakage
sewing denim change needles first and then
adjust the tensions little by little (1/4 number at
a time).
Machine set up
– Open looper cover. (Refer page 9)
– For Triple 5.6 mm coverstitch, install Right
Coverstitch Needle
(E), Coverstitch Center
Needle (D) and Coverstitch Needle (C). (Refer
page 12)
– Pass thread through needles (E), (D) and (C)
and thread chainstitch looper (violet) (Refer
pages 18-23)
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
– The graduations on cover stitch insert indicate
the distance from Center Coverstitch Needle.
– Use it as a guide when positioning fabric edge.
– Close looper cover.
29
a
c
b
d
e
f
g
h
Additional Information About
Coverstitch
• At start of sewing
(a) Raise presser foot.
PLEASE NOTE:
(h) The instructions given when sewing coverstit-
ches because chaining–off at the end of sewing
is not possible.
(b) Place fabric under presser foot behind the
needle.
(c) Lower presser foot.
• At end of sewing
(d) Stop sewing when the fabric is at the seam end.
(e) Raise presser foot.
(f) Turns the hand wheel toward you one circle
(anti–clockwise) ,then turns contrary one circle
back (Clockwise).
(g) Pull out the fabric lightly to rear of machine and
cut the threads to take out the fabric.
PLEASE NOTE:
When you start to sew from the middle of the
fabric, place the fabric at the desired of starting
point of sewing.
30
3–Thread Coverstitch
• Correct balance
– Set each tension dial to recommended setting
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
• How to balance the thread tension
When the coverstitch looper thread is too loose;
– Turn the coverstitch looper thread tension dial
(violet) toward a higher number.
When the Coverstitch Needle thread tension is too
loose;
– Turn the Left Coverstitch Needle thread tension
dial (yellow) toward a higher number.
– Or, turn coverstitch looper thread tension dial
(violet) toward a lower number.
When the Right Coverstitch needle thread tension is
too loose;
– Turn the Right Coverstitch needle thread tension
dial (green) or (blue) toward a higher number.
– Or, turn the coverstitch looper thread tension
dial (violet) toward a lower number.
When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle
threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric
becomes tight;
– Turn the coverstitch looper thread tension dial
(violet) toward a lower number.
PLEASE NOTE:
– These are suggested tension settings only.
– Tension settings are effected by;
1. Type and thickness of fabric
2. Needle size
3. Size, type and fiber content of thread
– Stitch length for coverstitch should be set at
over "•" (2.5 mm).
3-Thread Coverstitch wide
Fabric
Thread tension dial
Yellow Green Blue Violet
Polyester
4.0 4.0 4.0
3-Thread Coverstitch narrow
Fabric
Thread tension dial
Yellow Green Blue Violet
Polyester
4.0 4.0 4.0
Thread Color Code refer page 15.
/
2
3
2
3
1
4
6
5
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
NP
/
Refer page 12
SL
3–4
Refer page 25
/
2
3
2
3
1
4
6
5
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
/
2
3
2
3
1
4
6
5
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
/
2
3
2
3
1
4
6
5
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
/
2
3
2
3
1
4
6
5
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
2
3
1
4
6
5
31
4–Thread Coverstitch
• Correct balance
– Set each tension dial to recommended setting
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
• How to balance the thread tension
When the coverstitch looper thread is too loose;
– Turn the coverstitch looper thread tension dial
(violet) toward a higher number.
When the Left Coverstitch Needle thread tension is
too loose;
– Turn the Left Coverstitch Needle thread tension
dial (yellow) toward a higher number.
– Or, turn coverstitch looper thread tension dial
(violet) toward a lower number.
When the Center Coverstitch Needle thread tension is
too loose;
– Turn the Center Coverstitch Needle thread
tension dial (green) toward a higher number.
– Or, turn coverstitch looper thread tension dial
(violet) toward a lower number.
When the Right Coverstitch needle thread tension is
too loose;
– Turn the Right Coverstitch needle thread tension
dial (blue) toward a higher number.
– Or, turn the coverstitch looper thread tension
dial (violet) toward a lower number.
When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle
threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric
becomes tight;
– Turn the coverstitch looper thread tension dial
looper thread (violet) toward a lower number.
PLEASE NOTE:
– These are suggested tension settings only.
– Tension settings are effected by;
1. Type and thickness of fabric
2. Needle size
3. Size, type and fiber content of thread
– Stitch length for coverstitch should be set at
over "•" (2.5 mm).
4-Thread Coverstitch
Fabric
Thread tension dial
Yellow Green Blue Violet
Polyester
4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
NP
Refer page 12
SL
3–4
Refer page 25
Thread Color Code refer page 15.
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
2
1
4
6
5
3
32
PLEASE NOTE:
– Normally, the seams at the start of sewing
do not unravel, but it is safe to secure the
seam end following the same steps as
described when sewing through to the edge
of fabric.
SECURING THE SEAM END
– Since the seams formed by coverstitch unravel
when the looper thread is pulled out at the end
of sewing, secure the seam end in the following
manner.
– When sewing through to the edge of fabric,
among the threads coming out of the fabric
edge, knot the needle threads (2 or 3 threads)
together first, as shown on the left illustration.
Then, tie these threads with the looper threads.
– When sewing is stopped halfway, pull out the
needle threads (2 or 3 threads) on the underside
of the fabric and knot the threads in the same
manner as described above.
– Cut extra threads.
33
A
A
Oil
A
A
Oil
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Cleaning the Machine
Oiling the Machine
– Clean the lint from the looper and needle plate
area often with a dry lint brush.
– The oiling points shown in the diagram, should
be oiled periodically.
CAUTION:
Before cleaning your machine, disconnect
power line plug from the wall receptacle.
CAUTION:
Before lubricating your machine, disconnect
power line plug from the wall receptacle.
PLEASE NOTE:
Use only sewing machine oil. Do not use any
other oil or damage could result.
34
C
B
A
C
B
A
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
The following optional presser feet specially prepared
for this machine are available at extra–charge.
The snap–on type presser foot of this machine permits
easy removal and replacement.
Snap–On Type Presser Foot
• Removal
– Turn the handwheel to raise the needles to the
highest position.
– Raise the presser foot.
– Press red colored lever (A) located on back of
clamp under the presser foot shank, raise
presser foot shank to its High Lift position and
while holding the presser foot shank in this
position, remove the presser foot sole.
• Replacement
– Place presser foot sole on stitch plate under
presser foot shank so that hinge pin
(C) will fit
in slot
(B) of the shank. Then lower presser foot
shank.
– If presser foot sole can not be placed under
presser foot shank easily, raise presser foot
shank to its High Lift position and while holding
it in this position, place presser foot sole under
presser foot shank. Then lower presser foot
shank.
– Raise presser foot shank and make sure the
presser foot sole is properly attached to the
presser foot shank.
PLEASE NOTE:
Do not use presser foot made for other machi-
nes. Use of such presser foot may result in inter-
ference with the needle and knife and can be
hazardous.
35
Optional Cover Presser Feet
• Elasticator Foot
– The Elasticator foot guides and stretches the
elastic as it is being sewn on. Ideal for lingerie,
swimwear, sportswear and home textiles.
• Standard Presser Foot with clear sole
– The clear sole affords the perfect view of your
sewing project. It is ideal for decorative seams
which have been previously tailor-tacked, as
well as for positioning at the beginning or end of
a seam.
• Cording Foot and Guide
– This presser foot guides decorative and fine
cords of up to 2 mm thickness exactly and
precisely below the coverstitch seam as they
are being sewn on. Alternatively, it can also be
used to create and insert piping.
• Lace Foot
– For sewing lace, trim and tapes onto hems. The
bottom edge of the fabric is simultaneously
neatened with a narrow or wide coverstitch,
creating a flat joining seam.
• Binder Attachment for unfolded bias tape
– The binder attachment creates practical edge
finishes with unfolded bias tape in a width of 25
to 28 mm. Self-cut bias tape can also be used
for a professional look.
• Hemmer Foot
– The hemmer foot quickly and easily sews even
seams with a depth of 2.5 cm. A narrow or wide
coverstitch can be used to neaten the cut edge.
• Belt-loop Foot
– The belt-loop foot is used to fold bias or straight
binding, which it then quickly and easily turns
into straps or belt loops with the cover- or
chainstitch.
• Hemmer and Lace Foot
– This presser foot sews tapes or lace below a
fabric edge, which is simultaneously folded to
form a hem. A coverstitch neatens both edges
at the same time, whilst the material is folded by
1 cm.
36
TROUBLESHOOTING
Condition Cause Remedy Page
Fabric does not
feed well.
1. Lengthen stitch length.
2. Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric.
3. Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabric.
25
25
25
Needle breaks.
1. Insert needle correctly.
2. Tighten needle set screw.
3. Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics.
12
12
12
Thread breaks.
1. Check threading.
2. Check for tangled or caught thread.
3. Insert needle correctly.
4. Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or have a
blunt point.
5. Use only high quality thread.
6. Loosen thread tension.
15–23
20
12
12
37
27–31
Stitch skip.
1. Insert new needles, current needles may be bent or have
a blunt point. Use only ELx705 overlock needles.
2. Tighten needle set screw.
3. Insert needles correctly.
4. Change type or size of needles.
5. Check threading.
6. Increase presser foot pressure.
7. Use a high quality thread.
12
12
12
12
15–23
25
37
Irregular stitches.
1. Balance thread tension.
2. Check for tangled or caught thread.
3. Check threading.
27–31
20
15–23
Fabric puckers.
1. Loosen thread tension.
2. Check for tangled or caught thread.
3. Use high quality light weight thread.
4. Shorten stitch length.
5. Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabrics.
27–31
20
37
25
25
Fabric jams.
1. Close looper cover before sewing.
2. Check for tangled or caught thread.
3. Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional machine
before sewing with overlock.
9
20
Machine does not
operate.
1. Connect machine to power source. 9, 10
37
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART
Woven
Fabric Thread Needle ELx705
Light weight
Lawn
Organdy
Voile
Crepe
Cotton: #100
Silk/ Rayon: #100
Spun: #80– #90
Polyester: #80– #100
#80/12
Medium weight
Muslin
Seersucker
Satin
Gabardine
Broadcloth
Cotton: #60– #80
Silk/ Rayon: #50
Spun: #60– #80
Polyester: #60– #80
#90/14, #80/12
Heavy weight
Oxford
Denim
Tweed
Serge
Corduroy
Cotton: #40– #60
Silk/ Rayon: #40– #60
Spun: #60– #80
Polyester: #50– #80
#90/14
Knit
Fabric Thread Needle ELx705
Light weight Tricot
Spun: #80– #90
Polyester: #60– #80
#80/12
Medium weight Jersey
Spun: #60– #80
Polyester: #60– #80
Cotton: #60– #80
#90/14, #80/12
Heavy weight
Wool (woven,
knit)
Spun: #60– #80
Polyester: #50– #60
Woolly nylon
#90/14, #80/12
38
SPECIFICATION
Technical Summary
Stitch Formations 4 stitches
1–3 needles
1 looper
Needle system ELx705
Coverstitch needle gauge Two needles: 2.8 mm (narrow), 5.6 mm (wide)
Triple needles: 5.6 mm
Differential feed dial stretching 0.6–1
gathering 1–2
Presser foot lift 4.5 mm
Sewing speed 1300 stitches/minutes
Foot control Type 4C–316B
for (USA/Canada)
Type 4C–316C / 4C–326C / 4C–326G /
4C–345G
for other countries
Dimensions (L x B x H) mm 336 x 263 x 294
Weight (kg) 6.8 kg
EN – 06/2023 – 5th Edition
5040003.0.04 / G8P02-01
© BERNINA International AG
Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com
www.mybernette.com/yellow-shirt
EN – 06/2023 – 5th Edition
5040003.0.04 / G8P02-01
© BERNINA International AG
Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com
