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14 JL Audio
“How do I properly set the input sensitivity on my amplifier?”
Please refer to Appendix A (page 12) to set the input sensitivity for
maximum, low-distortion output.
“My amplifier doesn’t turn on.”
Check the fuse, not just visually, but with a continuity meter. It is
possible for a fuse to have poor internal connections that
cannot be found by visual inspection. It is best to take the
fuse out of the holder for testing. If no problem is found with
the fuse, inspect the fuse holder.
Check the integrity of the connections made to each of the
“+12VDC”, “Ground”, and “Remote” terminals. Ensure
that no wire insulation is pinched by the terminal set screw
and that each connection is tight.
Check to make sure there is +12V at the “Remote” connection of the
amplifier. In some cases, the turn-on lead from the source unit
is insufficient to turn on multiple devices and the use of a relay
is required. To test for this problem, jump the “+12VDC” wire
to the “Remote” terminal to see if the amplifier turns on.
“I hear a repetitive ticking or popping sound coming out of the speaker(s).”
Check the speaker wires for a possible short, either between the
positive and negative leads or between either speaker lead
and the vehicle’s chassis ground. If a short is present, you
will experience distorted and/or attenuated output. The
“Protection LED” will turn red in this situation. It may be
helpful to disconnect the speaker wires from the amplifier
and use a different set of wires connected to a test speaker.
Check the nominal load impedance to verify that the amplifier is
driving a load equal to or greater than 2 ohms.
“My amplifier’s output fluctuates when I tap on it or hit a bump.”
Check the connections to the amplifier. Make sure that the
insulation for all wires has been stripped back far enough to
allow a good contact area inside the terminal block.
Check the input connectors to ensure that they all are making good
contact with the input jacks on the amplifier.
APPENDIX C: TROUBLESHOOTING
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