Name: Craftsman 113198311 10 Radial Saw
Brand: Craftsman
SKU: 113198311
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Operators

Manual

MODEL NO.

113.198311

10" RADIAL SAW

WITH 44" CABINET

Serial

Number

Model and serial numbers

may be found at the rear of

the base.

You should record both

model and serial number in

a safe place for future use.

CAUTION:

READ ALL

INSTRUCTIONS

CAREFULLY

CRRFTgMRN

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

• Assembly

• Operating

• Repair parts

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. SP5103 Printed in U.S.A.

FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY ON CRAFTSMAN RADIAL SAW

If within one year from the date of purchase, this Craftsman Radial Saw fails due to a defect in material or

workmanship, Sears will repair it, free of charge.

WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY SIMPLY CONTACTING THE NEAREST SEARS

SERVICE CENTER/DEPARTMENT THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.

This warranty applies only while this product is used in the United States.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other :rights which vary from state to

state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., DEPT. 698/731A Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684

Table of Contents

Section Title Page Numbers

Safety Information ........................................................... 3-6

Putting Your Saw Together ................................................. 7-18

Location and Function of Controls ........................................ 19-22

Alignment of the Blade ..................................................... 23-38

Electrical Connections ..................................................... 39-40

Crosscutting ............................................................... 41-47

Ripping ................................................................... 48-56

Cutting Accessories ....................................................... 57-60

Recommended Accessories ................................................... 61

Glossary ...................................................................... 62

Helpful Hints ............................................................. 63-64

Maintaining Your Saw .................................................... 65-70

Trouble Shooting ......................................................... 71-75

Parts List .................................................................. 76-91

Safety Information

The operator's manual contains safety infor-

mation, instructions and signs for your protec-

tion against serious injuries, including:

Loss of fingers, hand, arm or leg from contact

with the saw blade.

Eye injuries, including being blinded from

being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the saw blade.

Impact injuries, including broken bones and

internal organ damage, from being hit by a

thrown workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces

of the saw blade.

Shock, electrocution, or burn injuries from

contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.

Safety Symbol and Signal Words

The safety information in this manual is high-

lighted by the following safety alert symbol.

Fig. 1 Safety Alert Symbol

The following signal words are used to indi-

cate the level of risk.

'_ DANGER: Means that if the safety infor-

mation is not followed, someone will be

seriously injured or killed.

WARNING: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone could be

seriously injured or killed.

'_, CAUTION: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone may be in-

jured.

All of the safety information and cutting

steps are critical to the safe operation of the

radial arm saw.

Major Hazards

1. Workpiece Kickback

Kickback is an uncontrolled grabbing and

throwing of the workpiece during ripping. If

kickback occurs, the workpiece can hit

you hard enough to cause broken bones, in-

ternal organ injury or death. To reduce or

prevent kickback, read and follow the safety

information in the Ripping section of the

manual.

Kickback.

Internal injury can

result.

Use anti-kickback

pawls/spreader.

Fig. 2 Kickback Safety Sign

2. Kickback Followed by Blade Contact

Kickback followed by blade contact can hap-

pen when the saw blade is pinched or bound

by the workpiece during ripping. Kickback

can happen if you reach around the blade to

the end with the anti-kickback pawls, (out-

feed end), and try to hold-down or pull the

workpiece through to complete the cut. Your

fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the

blade if the workpiece kicks back.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 3 Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. Wrong Way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece

into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback

pawls. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

blade and pull your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,

hand or arm can be cut off.

can be blinded

Wear safety

goggles.

Wrong Way Feed.

Fingers,hand, arm

can be cut off.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety,Sign

If a workpiece is fed into the end of the saw

with the anti-kickback pawls, it can take off

like a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece

can be killed. Feed the workpiece into the in-

feed end of the saw blade, the end that does

not have the anti-kickback pawls.

Wrong Way Feed.

Workpiece impact

can kill others.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 5 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

4. Thrown Workpiece Chips and Blade

Pieces

The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the blade violently. You

can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled

"ANSI Z87.1" on the package.

Fig. 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign

_i, DANGER: Follow the 8 steps listed

below to reduce or eliminate the risk of

being injured when using the radial arm

saw. Failure to do so can result in a life

threatening injury or death.

1. Lower the anti-kickback pawls and

spreader when crosscutting and ripping.

2. Set blade guard in horizontal position

when crosscutting.

3. Lower blade guard nose only when rip-

ping.

4. Keep hands as far away from the blade

as possible when cutting.

5. Return the saw to its rearmost position

after each crosscut.

6. Wait until the blade has stopped turn-

ing before reaching for the workpiece or

anything else on the table.

7. Read and follow the safety information

and safety instructions in the operator's

manual and in the safety labels on the

radial arm saw.

8. Know location and function of all con-

trols before using saw. See the Location

and Function of Controls section.

Personal Safety

1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"

on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,

they are not safety glasses.

2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve

shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie

long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes,

gloves, neckties, rings, watches or any other

jewelry.

3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety gog-

gles, if cutting operation is dusty.

4. Wear hearing protectors, ear plugs or

muffs, if you use the saw daily.

5. Keep good footing and balance. Don't over-

reach.

Work Area Safety

1. Keep children, pets and visitors out of the

work area.

2. Make the work area child proof. Remove

the yellow key from the red switch and place

it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.

3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust, wax

or other slippery materials.

4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered and

well lighted.

5. Use the saw in a dry area. Do not use in

wet or damp area. Do not use outside.

6. Clear the table of all objects (adjusting

wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except

the workpiece to be cut, fixtures or clamps

before turning the saw on.

7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work

on the table while the blade is turning.

8. Store items away from the saw. Do not

climb on the saw to reach items. Do not

stand on the table; the saw can tip over.

Saw Safety

1. Keep guards and anti-kickback pawls in

place and in working order.

2. Check for broken or damaged parts before

using saw. A damaged guard or other saw

part should be checked for alignment, bind-

ing, breakage and correct mounting to make

sure they are working properly. Repair or

replace damaged guards or other saw parts.

3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,

making adjustments, and changing blades and

accessories.

4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece

when practical. It's safer than using your

hands and frees them to operate the saw.

5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or acces-

sories to do jobs they are not designed to do.

6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and

the red switch is in the off position before

plugging in the power cord.

7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic

materials. Do not cut metal materials.

8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or

table if it slides, tips or walks during use.

9. Feed the workpiece against the direction

of rotation of the blade when ripping.

10. Turn the saw off before leaving work

area. Do not leave the saw until the blade

has stopped.

11. Lock the rip and miter locks before

moving the saw from one location to another.

12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if

the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed

workpiece with the saw on.

13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively

or makes an unfamiliar noise. Correct any

problems before restarting saw.

14.Rip workpieces that are longer than the

diameter of the blade being used.Do not rip

a workpiece that is shorter than the diameter

of the blade being used.

15.Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do

not cut stackedworkpieces or lay them edge

to edgefor cutting.

Workpiece Support Safety

1. Use additional supports for workpieces

which extend beyond the saw table. Large

workpieces can shift, twist, rise from table or

fall after they are cut.

2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,

workpiece chips or pieces of the blade. Use

table extensions or other supports. Do not

use helpers.

3. Helpers can cause the workpiece to kick-

back. Do not use other people to support or

assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece.

Use table extensions. See Recommended Ac-

cessories section of the manual.

4. When table extensions over 24 inches wide

are added to either side of the saw, make

sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or

support the outer end of the extension from

the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.

Blade Safety

1. Use blades marked for 3450 rpm or higher.

2. Do not use blades larger than l0 inches in

diameter.

3. Keep blade sharp and clean.

4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapid-

ly; the blade can loosen.

5. Do not overtighten the blade; the blade

collar can be warped.

Safety Labels on the Radial Arm Saw

The following labels are on your radial arm

saw. Locate, read and follow the safety in-

structions and information contained in these

labels.

1. Wrong way feed label located on the out-

feed end of the blade guard.

I DANGER J

TO AVOID

INJURY DO NOT

FEED MATERIAL

INTO CUTTING

TOOL FROM

THIS END

Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Label

2. Safety instruction label located on the

front of the saw near the handwheel.

Fig. 8

[ DANGER I

FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY:

1. Read and understand owner's manual

before operating machine.

2. Wear safety goggles complying with

ANSIZ87.t.

3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade.

4. Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS_'

5. Use "PUSH STICK" for narrow work.

6. Never reach around the saw blade.

7. Never perform any operation

"FREEHAND:'

8. Return carriage to the full rear position

after each cross-cut type operation.

9. Shut off power and allow saw blade to

stop before adjusting or servicing.

Safety Instruction Label

3. Ripping safety label located on the motor.

IDANGERI

WHEN RIPPING

1. Read and understand owner's manual

operaUng m4_blne.

2. Woar salfMy goggles complying with

ANSi 7.87.1.

3. KINIp hands out of path of law bllide.

4. Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS:'

5. Use "PUSH STICK" for narrow work.

6. Nero" roach around the law blade.

7. Never perform any oporatlon

"FREEHAND:'

8. Shut o4/power and allow law blade to

StOp before adjusting o¢ N/'_'lclng.

TO AVOID RUNAWAY WORKPIECE

ALWAYS PUSH WO_,KPIIECE into

cutt_ tool FROM THIS END ONLY

DANGER AT OUTFEED

Wotkpleca can smlck_ kick beck and

, and under out_ too_

ZONE

KEEP HANDS AWAYI

e._d417

Motor:. 120 Volts 12 Amps 3450 R.P.M. 60 Hz. 1 Phase

Fig. 9 Ripping Safety Label

Puttin etherYour Saw To

Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,

however it will take time. Ask a friend to

help, and follow these assembly instructions.

It is important for your safety, and for the

quality of your cuts, that the saw be put

together with care.

'_ WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during assembly can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm be-

ing cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during as-

sembly. The saw should only be

plugged in when it is to be used.

F D

Unpacking/Set up

1. As you unpack, try to keep the contents of

each of the smaller bags together and separate

from the others. This will help you identify and

locate the parts you need during assembly.

LIST OF LOOSE PARTS MODEL 113.198311

A. Basic Saw Assembly ..................... 1

B. Operators Manual ....................... 1

C. Cabinet Assembly ....................... 1

D. Front Table Board ....................... 1

E. Fence Rip ............................... 1

F. Spacer Board ............................ 1

G. Rear Table ............................... 1

H. Trim Ledge .............................. 1

I. Cap Trim ................................ 2

J. Loose Parts Bag* ......................... 6

*This is the total number of loose parts bags.

Fig. 10- Parts for Model 113.198311

2. Identify the large parts of your saw before

beginning each section. Your task will be

easier if you are familiar with these parts.

3. Identify the tools required for assembly.

Make sure that you have all of the tools you

will need. (Figure 11)

---_=a_ Medium Screwdriver

_7/16,, Wrench _//_ No. 2 Phillips Screwdriver

1/2" Wrench i'( _--]T

llJ

9/16" Wrench Hammer

3/4" Wrench

3/4"' Socket

9/16" Socket

Socket Wrench

Fig. 11

I::.":;, ", " ..i. :_: -

Framing Square

ut_s_

Pe nci I

Socket Extension 1/8" Hex "L" Wrench

3/16" Hex "L" Wrench

Pliers

4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the

contents into piles on the floor or table. This

will make it easier for you to find the part(s)

you need during assembly.

A. Handwheel Assembly .................... 1

B. Shaft Wrench ............................. 1

C. Arbor Wrench ............................ 1

D. Leveling Foot 3/8 ........................ 4

E. Hex Jam Nut 3/8-16 ..................... 8

F. Truss Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 1/2 ........... 48

G. Lockwasher Ext. 1 / 4 .................... 48

H. Hex Nut 1/4-20 ......................... 48

I. Screw Pan Hd. By BT 1/4 x 1/2 .......... 8

J. Rip Indicator ............................. 2

K. Bevel Indicator ........................... 1

L. Motor Support Cap ...................... 1

M. Pan Hd. Screw 10-32 x 1/2 .............. 1

N. Lockwasher Ext. #10 ..................... 1

O. Plastic Cover for J-Slots ................. 2

P. Switch Key ............................... 1

Q. Right Table Rail ......................... 1

R. Left Table Rail ........................... 1

S. Lock Handle With Rods ................. 2

Q,R

T. Pan Hd. Screw Ty "T" 1/ 4-20 x 1-1 / 2 .... 5

U. Washer 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 .............. 5

V. Rubber Bushing .......................... 5

W. U-Clip 1/ 4-20 ............................ 5

X. Tee Nut .................................. 3

Y. Soc. Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 .............. 3

Z. Pan Hd. Screw Ty AB 1/4 x 1-1/4 ....... 4

AA. Washer 17/64 x 3/4 x 1/16 ............. 4

AB. Table Slide Button ..................... 2

Information

1. If you are missing any part while putting

your saw together, do not continue assembly.

Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail

Store and get the missing part before continu-

ing assembly or trying to use the saw.

©u

iiiii. iiiUil z

AC. Lock Nut 1/4-20 ....................... 2

AD. Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 3/64 ........... 4

AE. Hex Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 5/8 ........... 4

AF. Lockwasher Ext. 1/4 ................... 4

AG. Hex Nut 1/ 4-20 ........................ 2

Complete parts listing is located at the end of

this manual. Use these lists to identify the

number of any missing part.

2. Sometimes small parts get lost in packag-

ing materials. Do not throw away any pack-

aging until your saw is put together. If you

are missing a part, check the packaging be-

fore contacting Sears.

3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be

fastened together using truss head bolts, lock-

washers and hex nuts of the sizes shown.

(Figure 12) When different sizes are needed,

the instructions will include a sketch to help

you locate the correct size.

@@ ©@

AC AD AE AF AG

Fig. 12 - Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher, Hex Nut

4. As you assemble your radial arm saw,

some of the holes in the parts will line up and

others will not. This happens because some

parts are used in other equipment or for other

purposes. Follow the instructions carefully.

The figures will show which holes should line

up in each step.

5. If it is difficult to get bolts through the

holes, you may need to use a Phillips screw-

driver to help shift the parts into place.

Left Side Panel ....................... 1

Right Side Panel ..................... 1

Shelf ................................. 1

Under Support ....................... 1

Skirts ................................ 2

Front Shelf Stiffener ................. 1

Corner Brackets ...................... 4

Spacers ............................... 2

Rear Shelf Stiffener .................. 1

Fig. 13 - Cabinet Assembty

1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.

The wide edge should point down, and the

three narrow edges should point up.

(Figure 14)

Rear Shelf T

Stiffener _ e

• " Under Support

Front Shelf Stiffener

2. Place the front shelf stiffener inside and

against the front edge of the shelf so that all

six holes line up. (Figure 14)

3. Place the under support on the shelf so that

the two holes on one end line up with the

center holes on the other two parts.

(Figure 14)

4. Line up the four holes in the under support

with the four holes in the shelf.

5. Place the rear shelf stiffener on the shelf so

that the two ends fit beween the edges of the

shelf and the two center holes line up with

the holes at the end of the under support.

(Figure 14)

6. Put truss head bolts through the eight

holes indicated. Put a lockwasher and hex nut

on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket..

7. Put a comer bracket in each corner of the

shelf (Figure 15)

Long End Of Shelf

, l

r_ ,

Long End Of Shelf

_Co-_rner Bracket

Shelf

Fig. 14

Fig. 15

8. Put two truss head bolts through the shelf

and each comer bracket to hold the brackets

in place. Only put bolts through holes in the

long edges of the shelf not the narrow ends,

as shown. (Figure 15)

9. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt

and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

10. Find the right and left side panels. Look

carefully to find the "R" and "L" stamped in

the metal near the center of the wide edge.

These stamps are the easiest way to tell the

right sidepanel from the left. (Figure 16)

13. Put two truss head bolts through right side

panel and spacer, one on each side.

14. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each

bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

15. Put a plastic cover over the J-shaped slot

in the side panel. (Figure 17)

16. Repeat steps 11-15 with the left sidepanel.

17. Lay the shelf on the rear edge with the

bottom side toward you.

18. Place the right side panel on the right side

of the shelf. The spacer should be on the

inside of the cabinet. (Figure !8)

Fig. 16

11. Turn the right side panel so that the J-

shaped slot is at the bottom and facing you.

12. Put a spacer inside the right side panel as

shown. The side of the spacer with two round

holes should be opposite the J-shaped slot in

the side panel, and the side with one larger

hole should be on the bottom. (Figure 17)

Spacer

Two Round Holes

Fig. ¢7

Right Side Panel

-Shaped Slot

Plastic Cover

Bottom Side Of Shelf

Fig. 18

Right Side Panel

19. Put bolts through the four holes along the

bottom edge of the right side panel. Put a

lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and

tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

(Figure 18)

Note: It is sometimes difficult to get bolts

through these four holes. You may need to

use a Phillips screwdriver to help shift the

parts into place.

20. Repeat steps 18-19 with the left sidepanel

and the left side of the shelf.

21. Turn the cabinet right side up. Attach the

skirts to the top of the side panels, with one

on the front of the cabinet and the other on

the back. (Figure 19)

Skirt ., Rear

Right Side Panel

Left Side Panel

Fig. 19

Shelf Front

Skirt

22. Use eight truss head bolts, lOckwashers,

and hex nuts to hold the skirts in place. Hand-

tighten. (Figure 19)

23. Put a truss head bolt through the hole at

the back, right corner of the shelf. This hold

goes through the shelf and the right side

panel. (Figure 20)

25. Repeat steps 23-24 on the left side of the

shelf.

26. Put a truss head bolt through the back of

the right spacer and front edge of the shelf.

(Figure 21)

t'\

f----i

i i

I I

I.... -3

I I

.... s

tP_

Fig. 21

)

Side Panel

Spacer

Shelf

27. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt

and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

28. Repeat steps 23-24 with the left spacer.

29. Move the cabinet to the location where

you will use your saw.

Right Side Panel

Rear

Fig. 20

Front

24. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt

and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

30. Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.

(Figure 22)

Fig. 22 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot

31. Put the leveling feet through the holes in

the bottom of the side panels, at the four

corners of the shelf.

32. Put another hex nut on each of the

leveling feet and hand-tighten until they are

against the side panels.

WARNING: Saw blade can roll for-

ward toward you if the leveling feet are

not correctly adjusted. Workpiece or

saw can move unexpectedly if cabinet

rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut

off from blade contact. Adjust leveling

feet before using your saw.

33. If the leveling feet raise the front of the

saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the

cabinet does not rock, go to step 39, or

If the leveling feet do not raise the front of the

saw slightly higher than the rear, go to step

34, or

If the cabinet rocks, go to step 34.

34. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired

leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

35. Loosen the top nut by hand.

36. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch

wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired

height.

37. Tighten the top nut by hand.

38. Repeat steps 34-37 for the other three

leveling feet if necessary.

39. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16

inch wrench.

Attaching Handwheel

1. Place the handwheel on the front of the

saw. The front of the saw has a D-shaft that

fits into a D-slot in the handwheeL

2. Attach the handwheel using a screw and ex-

ternal lockwasher. (Figures 23 & 24)

Handwheel

Fig. 23

o= ©

Fig. 24 - Screw and External Lockwasher

Mounting the Motor

A H_

JkWARNING: Plugging the saw in

during alignment can result in your

fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from

blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at

any time during alignment. The saw

should only be plugged in when it is to be

used.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw and remove

the guard from the motor.

2. Use the arbor wrenches to remove the blade

from the saw. The arbor shaft has left-handed

threads, so you will have to turn the nut

clockwise to loosen.

3. Lock the rip lock.

4. Raise the radial arm about 2 inches and

remove the styrofoam packing blocks.

5. Clean the small pieces of styrofoam off the

saw.

6. Place the motor on the center channel of

the saw and remove the three table boards and

fence.

7. Remove the lock nut and flat washer from

the motor pivot support. (Figure 25)

8. Slide the motor onto the motor pivot

support. Make sure that the motor is firmly in

place.

Fig. 25

9. Put the flat washer and locknut back in

place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket

wrench. Move the bevel lock back and forth

as you tighten the locknut. Do not over-

tighten.

10. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it

will go. (Figure 26)

If the bevel lock touches the left side of the

yoke, unlock the bevel lock and tighten the

locknut on the motor pivot support. Then go

to step 9 and repeat, or

If there is more than a 1/ 16 inch gap between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke,

unlock the bevel lock and loosen the locknut

on the motor pivot support. Then go to step 9

and repeat.

12. Repeat steps 9-10 until the bevel lock will

not touch the left side of the yoke, and the gap

is not more othan 1/ 16 inch.

13. Lock the bevel lock.

Mounting the Saw

1. Hold the saw by the front edge and the

back of the column support, and lift it onto

the cabinet. Make sure that eight holes in the

bottom of the saw line up with eight holes in

the top of the cabinet.

2. Fasten the saw to the cabinet with eight

truss head bolts. Put a lockwasher and hex

nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket. (Figure 27)

Truss Head Bolt

Saw/

OaOnet\

"N,'

Lockwasher-_

Hex Nut

:11!iI1illl:

Cabinet Set

(Top View)

Fig. 27

Fig. 26

11. If there is a 1/ 16 inch gap or less between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke

(and they are not touching), go to step 13, or 14

3. Check all the nuts holding the cabinet

together and tighten them using a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket.

Attaching Trim Ledge and

Trim Caps

1. Hold the trim ledge against the front of the

saw.

2. Reach through the top of the saw and use

four screws to fasten the trim ledge in place.

Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.

(Figures 28 & 29)

Trim Ledge

Fig. 28

Fig. 29 - Phillips Head Screws

3. Hold the right trim cap in place on the

front right side of the cabinet. (Figure 30)

Fig. 30

Trim Cap

4. Reach through the top of the saw and use

two screws to hold the trim cap in place.

Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.

5. Repeat steps 3-4 with the left trim cap.

Mounting Table Locks

The following parts are used in mounting the

table locks:

A°

Lock Handles with Rods ........... 2

Right Table Rail .................. 1

Left Table Rail ................... 1

Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 ......... 4

Lockwashers 1/4 .................. 4

Pan Head Screws 1/4x1-1/4 ......... 4

Hex Nuts 1/4-20 .................. 2

Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 3/64 ......... 4

Locknuts 1/4-20 ................... 2

Slide Button ...................... 2

B,C D

Fig. 31- Parts for Table Locks

1. Put a lockwasher on a hex head bolt.

(Figure 32)

Fig. 32 - Lockwasher, Hex Nut, and Hex Head Bolt

2. Lift a lock handle and put the bolt through

the hole in the mounting plate as shown.

(Figure 33)

Square Hole----

Fig. 33

Lock Handle With

Mounting Plate Underneath

3. Slide the rod through one of the square

holes in the front of the saw. Then put the

hex head bolt through the round hole above

it. (Figure 33)

4. Put another lockwasher and a hex nut on

the bolt and tighten with a 7/16 inch wrench

or socket.

5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 on the other side of the

saw.

6. Turn the front table (44" x 17") upside

down. The top of the front table has five large

holes and seven smaller ones. This side

should be toward the floor.

7. Place the two table rails on the front table

as shown. The tabs should point toward each

other when both rails are in place, and the ec-

centric circles should be toward the floor.

(Figure 34)

Slide

Eccentric Circle Slide Button

Eccentric Table Rail

Circle Tab "_

Front Table - Upside Down

Fig. 34

8. Push a sfide button through the small hole

in front of the eccentric circle on each table

rail.

9. Fasten the table rails to the front table

using four pan head screws and flat washers.

Tighten with a Phillips screwdriver.

(Figures 34 & 35)

Fig. 35- Pan Head Screws and Washers

Mounting the Front Table

The following parts are used to mount the

front table:

Tee Nuts ......................... 3

U-Clips 1/4-20 .................... 5

Mounting Screws 1/4-20 x l-l/2 ..... 5

Rubber Grommets ................ 5

Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 ......... 2

Washers 17/64-5/8xl/32 ............ 5

A C

D F

Fig. 36 - Parts for Mounting Table

1. Place a tee nut over each of the three

leveling holes and hammer them into place.

(Figure 37)

Mounting Holes

Leveling Holes

Leveling Hole

Mounting

Holes

Front Table - Upside Down

Fig. 37 - Leveling and Mounting Holes

2. Slide four U-clips over the holes in the saw

as shown. (Figure 38)

Io]==

Fig. 30

3. Slide one U-clip over the hole in the left

side of the center channel as shown.

(Figure 38)

4. Put a washer on each of the mounting

screws. (Figure 39)

Fig. 39 - Mounting Screw and Washer

5. Stand the front table on one edge.

6. Put a mounting screw through each of the

mounting holes. Then put a rubber grommet

on the bottom of each mounting screw.

(Figure 40)

Rubber

Grommet

Table Rail

Front Table On Front Edge

Fig. 40

7. Place the front table on the saw so that the

mounting screws line up with the U-clips. The

front table should extend about one inch

beyond the trim caps.

8. Start the mounting screws into the U-clips

using a Phillips screwdriver. Tighten the

screws until the heads are just touching the

table. Make sure that the table is not

squeezing the rubber grommets. Otherwise,

leveling the table later on will be difficult.

9. Start the leveling screws into the leveling

holes using a 1/8 inch Hex-L wrench. Tighten

the screws until they are flush with the table.

10. Attach the left rod to the left table rail

with a hex head bolt and flat washer. Then

put another washer and a locknut on the bolt,

and tighten using two 1/2 inch wrenches or

sockets. (Figure 41)_

Left Table Rail

Fig. 41

11. Repeat step 10 with the right table rail.

Location and Function of Controls

Fig. 42 - Radial Saw Controls

On/Off Switch

The on!off switch turns the power to the saw

on and off.

To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into

the red switch and then pull the switch to the

right. To turn the saw off, push the red switch

to the left. Remove the yellow key from the

red switch whenever the saw is turned off, and

keep it out of the reach and sight of children.

(Figure 43)

Fig. 43 - On/Off Switch

AI& WARNING: The saw can start ac-

cidentally or be used by children and

others when the yellow key is left in the

red switch. Always remove the yellow

key when the saw is off, and keep it out

of the reach and sight of children.

£L

AI& WARNING: The saw will start im-

mediately when the power comes back

on after a blackout if the red switch is

left on. Always turn the switch off and

remove the yellow key when the power

goes off for any reason,

Miter Lock

The miter lock is used to hold the radial arm

at various angles to the fence.

To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the

right. (Figure 44)

Bevel Lock

The bevel lock is used to hold the blade at

various angles to the table. To unlock the

bevel lock, move the lock to the right. Always

hold the motor when you unlock the bevel

lock. (Figure 46)

'_, CAUTION' The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured by the arbor shaft or blade.

Hold the motor when you unlock the

bevel lock.

Fig. 44 - Miter Lock - Unlocked

To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the

left. (Figure 45)

Fig. 46- Bevel Lock - Unlocked

Fig. 45 - Miter Lock - Locked

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,

0°, and -45 °. You will feel the radial arm

snap into position at these miter angles. To

unlock the arm when it is in one of these posi-

tions, pull the miter lock all the way to the

right and move the arm as you hold the lock

in this position.

To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the

left. (Figure 47)

Fig. 47 - Bevel Lock - Locked

There are five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,

-45 °, 0 °, 45 °, and 90 °. To unlock the bevel

lock when the blade is at one of these angles,

move the bevel lock all the way to the right

and turn the motor while holding the lock in

this position.

Swivel Lock

The swivel lock is used to hold the blade in

the crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and

to position the blade for molding or edging.

To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the

saw handle and pull the swivel sock toward

you. (Figure 48)

Fig. 48 - Swivel Lock - Unlocked

To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw

handle and push the swivel lock away from

you. (Figure 49)

swivel lock when the motor is in one of these

positions, stand facing the saw handle, pull

the swivel lock all the way toward you, and

turn the motor as you hold the lock in this

position.

Rip Lock

The rip lock is used to hold the motor and

blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.

It is used during ripping to hold the blade a

desired distance from the fence while the

workpiece is fed through. It is used before

and after each crosscut to keep the blade

from moving forward on its own.

To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle toward

the front of the arm. (Figure 50)

Fig. 50 - Rip Lock - Unlocked

To lock the rip lock, push the handle toward

the rear of the arm. (Figure 51)

Fig. 49- Swivel Lock - Locked

The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip positions of

the blade are pre-set positions. To unlock the

Fig. 51- Rip Lock - Locked

Handwheel

The handwheel controls the height of the

radial arm.

To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel

clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the

handwheel counterclockwise. (Figure 52)

Fig. 52- Handwheel

One complete turn of the handwheel moves

the arm 1/16 inch.

The handle can be folded in by pushing the

red button while pushing the handle in.

All Controls

Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks

before making a cut on your radial arm saw.

When ripping, the rip lock must also be lock-

ed. When crosscutting, the rip lock should be

locked before and after each cut, when the

saw is in the rearmost position.

Alignment of the Blade

The blade of your radial arm saw must be

aligned properly for two reasons: to make

cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the

blade and workpiece which can cause jams or

thrown workpieces.

These adjustments must be done in order,

before using your saw for the first time. If

they are not done in order the saw will not

cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment, you

must go back to the adjustment you missed

and repeat all steps from that point on.

These adjustments are like fine tuning a

piece of equipment. Often a series of steps

must be repeated more than once in order to

get the adjustment just right.

WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during alignment can result in your

fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from

blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at

any time during alignment. The saw

should only be plugged in when it is to be

used.

Make sure that the blade and blade guard are

removed from the arbor shaft before begin-

ning to align your saw. Do not install the

blade or blade guard until you are instructed

to do so.

Adjusting Elevation

The goal of this adjustment is to make up-

ward and downward movement of the radial

arm smooth and firm. If the column that sup-

ports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to

move the arm up and down and to get ac-

curate depth of cut. If the column is loose the

blade may "walk" on the workpiece and stall

the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and com-

pound cuts.

1. Use a 1/8" hex "L"wrench to loosen the

four screws in the front of the column

support. (Figure 53)

Four Socket

2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning

the handwheel a few turns in each direction.

It should take about the same amount of ef-

fort to lower the arm as to raise it.

3. If movement seems smooth and the

column does not rock back and forth, go to

the next section, or

If movement seems difficult, loosen the four

bolts in the back of the column slightly

(Figure 54) and go back to step 2, or

If column rocks back and forth, tighten the

four bolts in the back of the column slightly

(Figure 54) and go back to step 2.

Leveling Front Table.

The goal of this adjustment is to make the

front work table flat and parallel to the radial

arm. In order to do this, you will choose four

points on the table. When these four points

are level, the entire table should be level.

You will use two methods to make the four

points level:

3. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor.

Hold onto the motor as you do this.

'_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the arbor shaft hits you.

Hold the motor when you unlock the

bevel lock.

• Tighten the mounting screws which pull

down on the table making a given point

lower. (Figure 55)

4. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is

pointing straight down toward the table.

(Figure 56)

•Tighten the leveling screws which push

up on the table making a given point

higher. (Figure 55)

et 5 Mounting °e_ _lle

Screws

I_ Leveling Screws

Fig. 55

1. Loosen the three leveling screws and be

sure that the five mounting screws are snug

but not overtightened.

2. Raise the radial arm until the bottom of

the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the

front table.

Fig. 56

5. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor in

this position.

6. Draw two lines on the front table, over the

table rails. (Figure 56)

7. Unlock the rip lock and pull the motor out

to the end of the arm.

8. Unlock the miter lock and swing the arm to

the right until the arbor shaft is over the right

line.

9. Mark the point on the line under the cen-

ter of the arbor shaft.

10. Move the arm and motor until the arbor

shaft is over the right line at the rear of the

front table.

11. Mark the point on the line under the cen-

ter of the arbor shaft.

12. Repeat steps 7-11 on the left side.

13. Label the points A, B, C, and D.

14. Move the arbor shaft over these points

again, and measure the distance between the

table and the bottom of the arbor shaft at

each. Do not change the elevation of the arm

as you move from point to point.

15. Determine which point has the largest dis-

tance between the table and the arbor shaft.

This is the lowest point.

16. Move the arbor shaft over the lowest

point.

17. Place the handle end of the arbor wrench

over this point and lower the arm until the

arbor shaft is just touching the wrench. The

wrench should slide back and forth with slight

contact. (Figure 57)

18. Move the arbor shaft over another point.

Do not change the elevation of the arm.

19. Tighten the mounting screws and/or level-

ing screws until the handle of the arbor

wrench just fits between this point and the

arbor shaft. The wrench should slide back and

forth with slight contact. Use a 1/8 inch

Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling screws.

20. Repeat steps 18-19 for the last two points.

21. Lay the edge of the rear table across the

front edge of the front table. There should be

no gaps between the two.

22. If you see a gap larger than 1/32 inch,

tighten the center mounting screw and/or the

leveling screws until the gap is gone. Use a 1/8

inch Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling

screws. (Figure 58)

Fig. 58

23. Repeat steps 21-22 at the rear edge of the

front table.

24. Unlock the bevel lock and return the

motor to its original position with the arbor

shaft parallel to the table. (Figure 59)

Fig. 57

o o

Fig. 59

2. Lock the table locks. If you cannot lock the

table locks, go directly to step 5.

3. Pull up on the fence.

4. If the fence is held firmly, no change is

needed. Go to the next section, or

If the fence is loose and can be pulled out of

position, go to step 5.

5. Unlock the table locks.

6. Loosen the nuts under the circular clamps

using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

(Figure 60)

25. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock, swivel lock

and miter lock.

Adjusting Table Locks

The table locks are designed to hold the rear

table, spacer, and fence in place while cut-

ting. There are circular clamps at the back of

the table which are controlled by the table

locks. When locked, these clamps put pres-

sure on the rear table to hold it and the other

pieces in place. If the circular clamps are too

close to the rear table, the locks cannot be

locked. If they are too far from the table, the

locks will not hold the pieces firmly in place.

_llb WARNING: Workpiece, rear table,

fence, and/or spacer can shift during use

if table clamps are left loose. Your hands

may slip, and could be cut off by blade

contact. Table locks must be adjusted to

hold rear table, fence and spacer firmly in

place.

1. Put the fence in the front position, and the

spacer and rear table behind it.

3/16 Inch

Fig. 60

7. Turn each clamp until there is a 3/16 inch

space between the clamp and the rear table.

Make sure that the rear table, fence and

spacer are firmly against the front table.

(Figure 60)

8. Tighten each clamp with a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket.

9. Go back to step 2 and repeat until rear

table, spacer and fence are held firmly in

place.

Squaring Crosscut Travel

The blade must travel perpendieular to the

fence along the radial arm in order for cross-

cuts to be accurate. If the radial arm is not

perpendicular to the fence, there will be a

slight miter angle in all crosscuts.

_l_ WARNING" Plugging in the saw dur-

ing alignment can result in your fingers,

hands, or arm being cut off from blade

contact. Do not plug in the saw at any

time during alignment. The saw should

only be plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Place the radial arm in the 0 ° miter posi-

tion and lock the miter lock.

2. Place the blade on the arbor shaft with a

blade collar on each side. Make sure that the

directional arrow is on the outside of the

blade, and the teeth are pointing down at the

front side of the blade. (Figure 61)

_i_ CAUTION: Overtightening the arbor

nuts may cause the blade collars to

warp and the blade to wobble while cut-

ting. Use the arbor wrenches to tighten

the arbor nuts but do not overtighten.

4. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

until the blade is over the front table.

5. Lock the rip lock, miter lock and bevel

lock.

6. Lower the radial arm until the blade is

just above the front table.

7. Lay a framing square on the front table

with the long edge along the back of the table

and the short edge alongside the blade.

(Figure 62)

8. Move the framing square toward the blade

until a tooth of the blade just touches the edge

of the square. (Figure 62)

9. Mark this tooth with a pencil.

10. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

back and forth along the radial arm. Do not

move the framing square.

I I. If the marked tooth just touches the

square at all points, no change is needed. Go

to step 15, or

If the marked tooth moves away from the

square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go to

step 12 (Figure 62)

Fig. 61

3. Place the arbor nut on the arbor shaft and

use the arbor wrenches to tighten. The arbor

shaft has left-handed threads, so you will

have to turn the nut counterclockwise to

tighten. Do not overtighten.

If the blade tried to "walk" on the square,

tighten the top left screw to move the arm to

the right. Then tighten the top right screw to

meet the column. Go to step 14.

14. Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Repeat step 13 until the marked

tooth just touches the square at all points.

Then go to step 15.

15. Tighten the bottom screws in the front of

the column support, switching from right to

left several times so that you do not force the

radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten or

it will be difficult to raise and lower the

radial arm.

Fig. 62

12. Use a 1/8" hex "L"wrench to loosen the

four screws in the front of the column support

slightly, if you have not already done so in the

Adjusting Elevation section. (Figure 63)

Four Socket

_ / LL_ ,d_ Head Screws

...........................i _LT__L___ __-

Fig. 63 _-----___

13. Use the top two screws to move the

radial arm into line:

If the blade moved away from the square,

tighten the top right screw to move the arm to

the left. Then tighten the top left screw to

meet the column. Go to step 14, or

16. Raise and lower the radial arm. If this is

difficult, loosen the four screws in the front

of the column support slightly and try again.

Loosen all of these screws the same amount

so that you do not force the radial arm out of

line.

17. Repeat step 16 until movement of the

radial arm is smooth but firm. Then go to

step ! 8.

18. Lay a framing square on the front table

with the long edge along the back of the table

and the short edge alongside the blade, as

before.

19. Move the framing square toward the

blade, and rotate the blade with your hand,

until the marked tooth of the blade just

touches the edge of the square.

20. Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Do not move the square.

21. If the marked tooth just touches the edge

of the square at all points, go to step 22, or

If the marked tooth moves away from the

edge of the square or tries to "walk" on top

of it, go back to step 13 and repeat.

22. Set miter indicator on 0° position as

shown. (Figure 64)

Fig. 64

23. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence

and rear table back in place, lock the table

clamp, and go to the next section.

Squaring Blade to Table

for Crosscutting

These steps are necessary so that your blade

will be perpendicular to the table and cuts

will be accurate. If this is not done correctly,

your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.

1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position

with the blade over the front table.

2. Lock the table clamps and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the flaming square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade. Make sure that the square is against

the blade surface and not the set of a tooth.

(Figure 65)

4. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

66) Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

the blade after any rotation (Figure 66), go

to step 6.

Right

Square

[

Table

Wrong Wrong

Square j II_'L___--_ Square

I --/ r

Table Table

Fig. 66

6. Unlock the bevel lock, but do not move tile

motor.

7. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke

using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. (Figure 67)

Framing

Square

Fig. 65

Fig. 67

4 Socket

_Setscrews

8. Hold the square in place and move the

motor slowly until tile square is flush with tile

blade.

9. Hold the motor tightly and lock the bevel

lock. Do not let the motor move out of place.

10. Check the square to make sure that it is

still flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws behind the yoke.

12. Raise the radial arm until the blade is

1-1/2 inches above the table.

13. Unlock the bevel lock and move the motor

to the 45 ° bevel position. (Figure 68)

_, CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation, go back to step 6 and

repeat.

19. Install bevel scale indicator by inserting

one end into the opening in the yoke. Slide the

indicator to one side and push until it snaps in

place. Tabs are located on the outside of the

opening. Adjust indicator by sliding red line

to 0 ° position. (Figure 69)

Fig. 69

Fig. 68

14. Move the motor back to the 0° bevel posi-

tion and lock the bevel lock.

15. Lower the radial arm until the blade is

just above the table.

16. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade as before. Make sure the square is

against the surface of the blade and not the

set of a tooth.

Squaring Blade to Fence

These steps are done so that your blade will

be perpendicular to the fence. This will help

reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and

splintering of the workpiece and burning of

the kerf when ripping and crosscutting.

Fig. 70 - Squaring Blade to Fence

1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position

with the blade just in front of the fence.

(Figure 70)

2. Lock the rip lock.

17. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

18. if the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to Step 19, or

3. Place the framing square with the long

edge against both the fence and the table, and

the short edge against the bla&, just above

the arborsh@. Make sure that the edge of

the square is on the blade and not on the set

of a tooth. (Figure 70)

4. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

71) Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation, go to step 6.

(Figure 71)

Square

Right

Fence

Fence Fence

Square Square

Wrong Wrong

Fig. 71

6. Unlock the swivel lock.

7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke

using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if

necessary. (Figure 72)

l'k _

4ULWARNINL_: The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen

screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with

pliers.

Fig. 72

8. Hold the square in place and turn the

motor until the square is flush with the blade.

9. Hold the saw handle tightly and lock the

swivel lock.

10. Check the square to make sure it is still

flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws under the yoke

using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. Do not use

pliers!

12. Place the framing square with the long

edge against both the fence and the table, and

the short edge against the blade just above

the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the

edge of the square is on the blade and not on

the set of a tooth.

13. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

14. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping

1. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor

to the out-rip position with the motor be-

tween the blade and fence. (Figure 73)

Fig. 73 - Out-rip Position

2. Lock swivel lock and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade alongside the arbor shaft. Make sure

the square is against the surface of the blade

and not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 74)

[ I

Fig. 74

4. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation (Figure 75) go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 75), go to

step 6.

L I Right I_

Table Fence

Wrong _M_ Wrong

I l' _k. L I

Table Fence Table Fence

Fig. 75

6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear carriage

bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the

bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.

(Figure 76)

Fig. 76

7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16

inch wrench to turn the bolt until the square

is flush with the blade.

8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten the hex

nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.

9. Turn the blade several times and check to

see if the square is still flush with the blade.

10. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

as far back as it will go.

12. Pinch the front carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull

the motor forward with the other hand. Try to

keep the carriage bearing from turning.

(Figure 77)

Fig. 77

13. Move the motor as far forward as it will

go.

14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull

the motor toward the rear with the other

hand. Try to keep the carriage bearing from

turning.

15. If you can keep either of the carriage bear-

ings from turning while the motor moves

along the radial arm, go to step 16, or

If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from

turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.

16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each car-

riage bearing, and the track they ride on, with

a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris.

Oil if necessary.

17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bear-

ing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to

hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen

the nut.

18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench

until the looseness is gone.

19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/16 inch

wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2

inch wrench. Do not overtighten.

20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the

same amount so that the blade will still be

square with the table.

21. Repeat steps 11-15 to make sure that the

carriage bearings are not still loose.

22. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.

Make sure the square is against the surface of

the blade and not on the set of a tooth.

23. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

24. If the square is flush with the blade, go to

the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

Olade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

Making Blade Parallel to

Table

These steps are done to help prevent the

workpiece from being thrown or damaged

when the saw is used for edging.

>,,,,,/--,il _ Ld aYi.._P_

I'1 '_", I I II-_P] -'_ ,r'--%

I I IV'-" I

k___!_, I I LI b ==_! I

Fig. 78

1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position.

2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2

inches above the front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor

so that the blade is parallel to the table.

(Figure 78)

,_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

4. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock and swivel lock.

5. Place the corner of the framing square

against the fence so that the long edge is on

the table under the blade and the short edge

is sticking up in the air. Make sure that the

long edge is perpendicular to the fence.

(Figure 79)

J-;:- /_............ _

Saw Ha

-__ _--_- -: _- _" Framing Square

Fig. 79

6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just

rests on the edge of the framing square.

Make sure that the square is on the blade

and not on the set of a tooth.

7. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

8. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation (Figure 80) go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 80) go to

step 9.

Right

Square "X_ _ Motor

Table

Square

Fe_l

Wrong Wrong

Square

/__tOr\nc_i ] __M°t°r

Table Table

Fig. 80

9. Unlock the bevel lock.

10. Loosen the two screws on the back of the

motor support using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench

and pliers if necessary. (Figure 81)

_l_ WARNING" The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen

screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with

pliers.

16. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

17. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.

18. Snap the motor support cap into the back

of the motor support. The cap is in the loose

parts bag. (Figure 82)

Saw

Handle

Saw Handle

Motor Support

Capscrews

Fig. 81

11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower

the bottom side of the motor support until the

square is flush with the blade.

12. Hold the motor firmly and lock the bevel

lock.

13. Check the square to make sure that it is

still flush with the blade.

14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the

motor support. Do not use pliers!

15. Place the corner of the framing square

against the fence so that the long edge is on

the table under the blade and the short edge

is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure

that the long edge is perpendicular to the

fence.

Motor Support

Motor Support Cap

Fig. 82

Installing Guard / Setting

Spreader

The blade guard and the spreader are very

important safety features of your saw. The

guard covers a large part of the blade and

reduces the risk of amputation. The spreader

rides in the kerf of the cut wood during rip-

ping, and helps keep the two sides from

pinching the blade and causing a kickback.

WARNING" Fingers, hand or arm

can be cutoff from blade contact if the

blade guard is not used properly. Always

put the proper blade guard on your saw

and adjust it correctly.

WARNING: Kickback can occur if

the spreader is not in line with the

blade. You can be injured or killed. Al-

ways adjust the spreader and make sure

that it is directly in line with the blade.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw until it no

longer touches the metal plate. (Figure 83)

3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard

is parallel to the table. (Figure 85)

4. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor

to the in-rip position, with the blade between

the motor and the fence. (Figure 85)

Guard Clamp Screw

Fig. 83

Metal Plate

2. Place the guard over the blade. You will

feel the guard fall into place when the ridge

on the inside of the guard slides into the slot

on the motor. (Figure 84)

Fig. 85 - In-rip Position

6. Lock the swivel lock.

7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just

above the table.

Fig. 84

8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

back until the blade touches the fence.

9. Lock the rip lock.

10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the

spreader in place.

11. Lower the spreader and antikickback

pawls until the spreader is against the fence,

and the pawls on one side of the spreader are

on top of the fence. (Figure 86)

ISpreader

Table

Fig. 86

12. If the spreader and blade both rest against

the fence, no adjustment is needed. (Figure

87 -A) Go to step 17, or

If the spreader is in front of the .[once but not

touching it (Figure 87-B), go to step 13, or

If the spreader hits the top of the fence

(Figure 87-C), go to step 13.

A - Right

Pawl--.--_ _

Fence -----[

...... i

Yablel

Spreader

Saw Blade

13. Loosen both nuts on the spreader using a

1/2 inch wrench.

14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it

is against the fence directly behind the blade.

15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch

wrench. Do not move the spreader as you

tighten these nuts.

16. Check the blade and spreader again to

make sure that they are both against the

fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.

17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,

raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten

the wing screw to hold it in place.

18. Unlock the rip lock.

19. Pull the motor forward so that the blade is

away from the fence and lock the rip lock.

20. Unlock the swivel lock.

21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon

with the blade and arm perpendicular to the

fence.

22. Lock the swivel lock.

B - Wron¢

Pawl ..__l_ti

_-_i!_Spreader

Fence -_I _ _

Table t

Saw Blade

Fig. 87

C - Wrong

Pawl Spreader

Fence

Table

Saw Blade

Installing and Adjusting Rip Scale Indica-

tors

NOTE: The rip scales indicators are intended

to be used for quick settings. Adjustments

will be necessary for blades of different thick-

nesses. For greater accuracy take direct mea-

surements between blade and fence with ruler

or measuring tape.

1. Locate rip scale indicators in a loose parts

bag and slide indicators onto mounting brack-

ets.

2. Unlock the swivel lock and move the

blade into the OUT-RIP position. Lock the

swivel lock.

3. Measures 2" from rip fence to nearest

tooth on the blade and lock rip lock handle.'

4. Adjust "out rip" scale indicator by slid-

ing until indicator line reads 2 inches on the

upper of the two "out rip" scales as illus-

trated. Out rip scales are located on left side

of arm.

5. Unlock rip lock and move blade away

from fence. Unlock the swivel lock and rotate

the motor to the IN-RIP position. Lock the

swivel lock. Push the motor until the blade

rests against the fence.

6. Adjust "in-rip" scale indicator (located

on right side of arm) by sliding until indicator

line reads "0" inches.

®1

2 Inches

Fig. 88 - Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)

Electrical Connections

Motor Specifications

The AC motor used in this saw is a capacitor-

start, non-reversible type having the following

specifications:

Rated H.P .......................... 1.5

Maximum Developed H.P ............. 2.5

Voltage ........................... 120

Amperes .......................... 11.5

Hertz (cycles) ....................... 60

Phase ........................... Single

RPM ............................. 3450

Rotation of Arbor Shaft ......... Clockwise

Power Supply

_i, WARNING: Your saw is wired at

the factory for 120V operation. Connect

to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and

use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit

breaker. Failure to connect in this way

can result in injury from shock or fire.

,_, WARNING: To avoid shock or fire, if

power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in

any way have it replaced immediately.

Your unit is wired for 120V and it has a plug

that looks like the one shown below. (Figure

89)

3-Prong Plug

Grounding Prong

Properly

Grounded

Outlet

Fig. 89 - Plug for Less Than 150V

Your saw must be properly grounded. Not all

outlets are properly grounded. If you are not

sure that your outlet is properly grounded,

have it checked by a qualified electrician.

_lb WARNING: If not properly

grounded this power tool can cause

electrical shock, particularly when used

in damp locations.

£L _

A&WARNING: If an electrical shock oc-

curs, your reaction to the shock may

bring your hands into contact with the

blade.

This power tool is equipped with a 3-

conductor cord and grounding type plug listed

by Underwriters' Laboratories. The ground

conductor has a green jacket and is attached

to the tool housing at one end and to the

ground prong in the attachment plug at the

other end.

This plug requires a mating 3-conductor

grounded type outlet as shown above. If you

have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it

is recommended that you have a qualified

electrician replace the it with a properly

grounded three prong outlet.

_1_ WARNING: To maintain proper

tool grounding, whenever the outlet you

are planning to use for this power tool

is of the two prong type do not remove

or alter the grounding prong in any man-

ner.

An adapter is available for connecting plug to

2-prong receptacles. The green grounding

lead extending from the adapter must be con-

nected to a permanent ground such as to a

properly grounded outlet box. (Figure 90)

Grounding Lug

/ _ MakeSureZhisls

3-Prong Plug _:_'_ _lr_--":-_'-- Connected To A

_!1_ I_(_')11 Known Ground

__' __"""_ 2-Prong

/ Receptacle

Adapter

Extension Cords

The use of any extension cord will cause

some loss of power. Use the following table

to determine the minimum wire size

(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire ex-

tension cords which have 3-prong grounding

type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which ac-

cept the tool's plug.

Length of

Conductor

Wire sizes Required

(American Wire Gage No.)

120V Lines

0 - 25 feet No. 16

26 - 50 feet No. 14

51- 100 feet No. 12

For circuits that are farther away from electri-

cal circuit box, the wire size must be in-

creased proportionately in order to deliver

ample voltage to the saw motor.

Fig. 90 - Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles

'_ WARNING: The adapter illustrated

is for use only if you already have a

properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is used to cut a workpiece to

length. The workpiece is held against the

fence. The saw blade is pulled through the

workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the

grain of the workpiece.

Types of Crosscuts

The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.

Notice the hand and body position in each.

Fig. 91 Straight Crosscut

Fig. 93 Bevel Crosscut

Fig. 94 Compound Crosscut

Fig. 92 Miter Crosscut

Miter Bevel

Fig. 95 Basic Crosscuts

Safety Information for

Crosscutting

Read and follow the safety information below

before making any type of crosscut.

_lb WARNING

1. Set guard and anti-kickback pawls to

proper height to serve as a partial barrier.

2. The saw blade can throw the

workpiece over the fence if the blade is

pushed backwards into workpiece.You

or others can be hit and injured by the

thrown workpiece. Start a crosscut with

the blade in its rearmost position.

3. If the blade is pulled through the

workpiece beyond the middle of the

blade, it can:

• pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the

area, or;

• lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and pull your

hand into the blade as the blade

is returned. Pull the saw blade

through the workpiece to the dis-

tance shown below.

4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw

blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers,

hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the

hand holding the workpiece at least 8 in-

ches to the side of the workpiece, out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand

holding the workpiece in view at all

times.

5. The blade can come completely off

table edge beyond the 30 ° left miter

position. Fingers, hands, arms or legs

can be cut off. Use the right miter posi-

tion whenever possible to make miter

crosscuts.

6. The blade continues to turn for about

12 seconds after the saw is turned

off. Wait for the blade to stop before

reaching for the workpiece.

7. If length stops are used on the cut-off

end of workpiece, the cut-off end can

be thrown by the blade. The workpiece

could hit and injure you or others in the

area. Do not use a length stop on the

cut-off end of the workpiece. Use a

length stop only on the end of the

workpiece which is held down.

8. Holding on to or touching the cut off

end of the workpiece while the saw

blade is still turning can cause the

workpiece to pinch the blade. The

workpiece can be thrown and hit and in-

jure you or others in the area. Do not

touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cut-

off piece of the workpiece while the

power is on or the saw blade is turning.

9. The saw can throw the workpiece,

workpiece chips or pieces of the blade

violently. You can be blinded. Wear

safety goggles.

Fig. 96 Blade Distance to Complete Crosscut 42

10. The workpiece cannot be controlled

or held stable enough to do free hand

cutting. The workpiece can be thrown or

slip and pull fingers and hand into the

saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut

off. Set the radial arm to the desired

cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on

table and solidly against the fence.

Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate

the risk of injury from contact with the upper

half of the blade and the leading edge of the

blade when:

11. Saw parts loosen and wear with

use. You or others can be injured. Keep

all parts tight and in working order.

• the guard is in the horizontal position

and;

12. The fence must be of at least equal

height to the workpiece or else the

workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit

and injure you or others in the area. See

Cutting Accessories section for instruc-

tions to make a fence.

• the pawls and spreader are set to

clear the top of the fence and

workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

The Blade Guard:

13. The blade will try to pull itself

through the workpiece. Be prepared to

hold the saw handle back to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or

else the blade will suddenly come

toward you when you lower it to make a

crosscut.

15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep

one hand on the saw handle to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

16. Cutting more than one workpiece at

a time can cause you to lose control of

the workpieces, which can be thrown

and hit and injure you or others in the

area. Cut only one workpiece at a time.

Do not stack or lay workpieces edge to

edge.

• provides protection from contact with

the upper half of the blade;

• helps keep the workpiece from jam-

ming in the guard and;

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-kickback Bar, Pawls and Spreader:

• serve as a partial barrier to provide

protection from contact with the lead-

ing edge of the blade.

£k

A WARNING: To reduce the risk of

contact with the upper half of the blade

and keep the workpiece from jamming

in the guard, set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 100.

Crosscutting ChecMist

Use the following checklist at the beginning

of each new cutting period to reduce the risk

of an accident.

Yellow key removed from red switch.

Saw unplugged and switch off.

No play in the carriage bearings, motor

support or column. See Alignment of the

Blade section for instructions.

Arm slo_s to the rear and table level side

to side.

Blade sharp.

Fen_.se_re, solid (knot free) and in

eonditiom _ good

• iI

.-ence in correct table position.

not extend above the top

position and

bevel and table locks

to do.

Cutting Table and Fence

Kerfs

You will need to cut a new table kerf (shal-

low cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence

from sawing through it with the blade), each

time a new cutting angle is used. The table

kerf lets the blade cut all the way through a

workpiece.

Fig. 97 Table and Fence Kerfs

Note: To extend the life of your table top,

you can make an additional table top. See

Helpful Hints section.

Making Table and Fence Kerfs for Crosscut-

ting

To make a crosscut kerf in your table and

fence:

1. Put your fence between the front table and

spacer board. Lock the table locks.

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-

hind the fence.

3. Lock rip lock.

_i, WARNING: The saw blade will sud-

denly come toward you when lowered

into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock

the rip lock before and after each

crosscut.

Fig. 98 Locked Position for Rip Lock

8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm

in line with the saw handle as shown below.

4. Lower the radial arm until the blade al-

most touches the table top.

5. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet. Check

Electrical Connections section of manual if

you are not sure the outlet is grounded.

6. Wear safety goggles labeled ANSI Z87.1

on the package.

,'k

A WARNING: The saw can throw the

workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of

the blade violently. You can be

blinded. Wear safety goggles.

Blade throws

objects violently.

Wear safety

goggles.

Fig. 99 Safely Goggles Safely Sign

7. Insert yellow key into the red switch.

Fig. 100 Crosscut Blade Guard and Body Position

I'k

WARNING: Saw blade can sudden-

ly come toward you when turned on.

Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.

Keep one hand on the saw handle at all

times.

9. Turn the saw on.

10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade

touches the table.

11. Turn the handwheel another 1/2 turn

more. This will let you make a 1132 to 1/16

inch kerf in the table.

12. Unlock rip lock.

13. Pull the saw blade forward through the

fence and along the table as far as it will go.

14. Return the saw blade to its rearmost posi-

tion behind the fence.

15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the

saw handle.

16. Wait for blade to stop turning.

17. Lock rip lock.

18. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Making Crosscuts

The following section contains safety informa-

tion and instructions for making crosscuts.

Anyone who uses your saw should read and

follow these steps.

WARNING: The blade guard must be

horizontal to provide protection from

contact with the upper half of the blade

and avoid the workpiece being jammed in

the blade. Set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 100.

DANGER: The anti-kickback pawls

serve as a barrier for the leading edge

or the blade. Set the anti-kickback

pawls to clear the top of the fence and

workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

A WARNING: The fence must be at

least equal height or higher than the

workpiece you are going to cut or else

the workpiece can be thrown and injure

you or others in the area. Install a fence

of at least equal height to the workpiece.

1. Put your fence in position A as shown and

lock the table locks.

B C A

" ql

i I

Fig. 101 Fence Position for Crosscut

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-

hind the fence.

3. Lower the blade into but not touching the

table kerr.

4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback

pawls to clear top of fence and workpiece by

about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help

provide protection from the leading edge of

blade.

5. Plug saw into grounded outlet.

6. Put on safety goggles.

7. Place the workpiece against the fence.

8. Unlock rip lock.

9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your

forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.

Zk _

&lkWARNIN(3: The saw blade tries to

pull itself through the workpiece. Be

prepared to hold saw handle back to

keep the saw blade from coming toward

you. Keep one hand on the saw handle

at all times.

A _

&IWARNIN(3: If the saw blade is pulled

through the workpiece beyond the mid-

dle of the saw blade, it can:

• pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the

area, or;

• lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and draw your

hand into the blade as the blade

is returned.

Pull the saw blade through the

workpiece to the distance shown below.

Fig. 102 Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut

12. Support and hold the workpiece down

and against the fence firmly with your left

hand.

13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece

just enough to complete the cut. Fig 102

14. Return saw to its rearmost position and

continue to hold the saw handle.

15. Turn saw off.

16. Wait for the blade to stop turning.

17. Remove yellow key form red switch.

10. Insert yellow key into red switch.

11. Turn saw on.

AlL WARNING: Saw blade can be

pulled into or over fingers or

hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.

Keep hand holding the workpiece at

least 8 inches to the left of, and out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand in

view at all times.

Repetitive Crosscuts

To make repetitive crosscuts:

1. Use two pieces of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch

lumber.

2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each

side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.

3. Clamp pieces of lumber at the distance

necessary to complete the crosscut.

Fig. 103 Hand Placement for Crosscuts

Fig. 104

Ripping

Ripping is used to change the width of the

workpiece by sawing along its length. The

workpiece is fed into the saw blade. The

fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually

made with the grain of the workpiece.

Saw Positions for Ripping

There are two saw blade positions for making

rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.

In in-rip position, motor is toward the front

of the table, and blade is toward the fence.

Fig. 105 In-Rip ,Saw Position

In out-rip position, motor is toward fence and

the blade is toward the front of the table.

Fig. 106 Out-Rip Saw Fosition (Infeed End)

_1_ WARNING: Stand only at infeed end

of saw. Feed workpiece only into infeed

end of saw as shown above.

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better

visibility of both the workpiece and your

hands than does the out-rip saw position.

The only time you should use the out-rip saw

position is when the workpiece is 14 inches

or wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest

part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to

take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

A _

IILWARNINbi: If the blade is set between 2

inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Use a push

stick.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw

blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a push stick.

WARNING: If the blade is set between

1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers/hand can be cut off. Use an auxiliary

fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

Safety Information for

Ripping

Read and follow the safety information below

before making any type of rip cut.

DANGER

1. Kickback can happen when the saw

blade is pinched or bound by the

workpiece. This creates force in the op-

posite direction to which the workpiece

is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab

and throw the workpiece violently back

out of the saw.

2. One of the most common and the

most dangerous mistakes people make

is to reach for the workpiece at the out-

feed side of the saw. DON'T ! The

workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or try to pull the workpiece

through the blade. You can lose your

fingers, hand, or arm. The blade guard

does NOT provide complete protection

at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach

for the workpiece at outfeed end of the

saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut

off. Follow instructions for ripping.

Kickback,

Blade Contact.

Fingers, hand or arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for ripping.

Fig. 107 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. The workpiece can also kickback

violently toward you during a rip cut.

You can be hit hard enough to cause

broken bones and/or internal injury.

Keep blade guard, anti-kickback pawls

and spreader in place and adjusted.

Apply feed pressure to the section of

the workpiece next to the fence. Do not

apply feed pressure on the section of

the workpiece away from the fence.

Stand out of the path of the workpiece.

Kickback.

Broken bones/inter-

nalinjuriesresult.

Use pawls/spreader.

Stand out of

workpiece path.

Fig. 108 Kickback, Thrown Workpiece Safety Sign

4. Non-thru cuts increase the chance of

kickback because the anti-kickback

pawls cannot always grab the irregular

workpiece surface. Use a featherboard.

See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a featherboard.

5. The workpiece can snag or hang up

on a fence with a kerr in it. The

workpiece can be thrown or pinch the

blade, causing kickback. Use solid fen-

ces when making rip cuts.

6. Wood cut with the grain can spring

the kerr closed, bind the blade, and

cause a kickback. Adjust spreader to

ride in the kerr and prevent the kerr

from closing on saw blade.

7. Composition materials, like particle

boards and plastics, may be cut on the

saw. Because these materials often

have a harder and more slippery surface

than wood, the anti-kickback pawls may

not stop a kickback. Place finished side

of workpiece down, roughest side of

workpiece up. Make anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments. Stand out of

the path of workpiece.

2. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

saw blade and take off like a missile.

Anyone standing in the path of the

workpiece can be killed.

Wrong Way Feed,

Blade Contact.

can be cut off.

Feed from infeed

end of saw.

Wrong Way Feed.

Thrown Workpiece.

Anyone hit can

be killed.

Feed from

infeed end of saw.

Fig. 109 Wrong Way Feed Safety Signs

Always feed the workpiece against the

direction of rotation of the blade, at the

infeed end of the blade.

_1_ DANGER: wrong way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece

into the end of the blade with pawls, the

outfeed end. (Fig. 110) There are two

things that can happen if you feed the

workpiece into the outfeed end of the saw

blade:

1. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

blade and pull your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back.

Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.

Infeed End of Outfeed End

Saw Blade of Saw Blade

"GER

Fig. 110 Infeed and Outfeed Ends of Saw Blade

Blade Guard, Anti-kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

workpiece spreader are designed to reduce or

eliminate the risk of injury from blade con-

tact, workpiece kickback and wrong way feed.

The Blade Guard:

• serves as a partial barrier to help

keep hands from contacting the blade

at the infeed end of the saw blade.

• helps keep the workpiece from lifting

or fluttering during ripping.

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-Kickback Pawls :

• help reduce kickback by grabbing into

and holding the workpiece.

• act as a barrier to provide some

protection from blade contact.

The Spreader:

• helps keep the kerf of the workpiece

open, which helps prevent the blade

from being pinched and causing

workpiece kickback.

• when correctly set, helps reduce or

eliminate the chance of wrong way

feed because it blocks the workpiece

from contacting the saw blade.

'_ WARNING: The anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments must be made

each time a different thickness workpiece

is cut to reduce or eliminate kickback.

Rip Cutting Checklist

Use the following rip cutting checklist at the

beginning of each new cutting period to

reduce the risk of an accident.

Rip Cutting Chec ist

he rearand table level side

Arbor nut snug.

Blade sharp.

Fence secure, solid (knot free), no kerfs.

Fence in correct rip position.

Saw blade desired distance from the fence

for cut.

Swivel, bevel, rip, miter and table

lock locked.

Blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

6 inches offworkpiece.

Use push block if cutting between 1/2

and 2 inches off workpiece.

Use featherboard if making a non-through

cut and when needed on through cuts.

Read and follow instructions for the type

of rip cut you want to make.

Making a Rip Cut Table Kerf

You will need to make a table kerf before a

rip cut can be made. Every time you move

the blade a new distance from the fence, you

will need to make a new kerf.

1. Put saw in desired rip position and lock the

saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table

locks.

Blade Guard Adjustments

1. Unplug saw and remove yellow key.

2. Put saw in In-Rip position and lock the

saw arm in the 0° position.

3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel until the

saw blade almost touches the table top.

4. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet.

5. Put on safety goggles.

6. Insert the yellow key in the red switch.

7. Turn saw on.

8. Lower saw blade until blade touches the

table.

9. Turn the handwheel about 1 full turn

more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerr

in the table.

_WARNING: For workpieces 1/4 inch

thick or less, make the rip kerf at least

1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade

from rising up on top of workpieces and

violently throwing them.

10. Turn saw off and remove yellow key.

11. Unplug saw at the end of cutting session.

Adjustments for Ripping

DANGER: You will need to make

blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjustments before making a rip

cut.

Fig. 111 In-Rip Saw Position

3. Lock rip, miter, bevel, swivel and table

locks.

4. Go to the in-feed end of the saw blade.

Fig. 110.

5. Put the workpiece on the table, in line with

blade and under the nose of blade guard, so

it touches the blade.

6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate

the guard until the guard nose just clears the

workpiece. Fig. 112.

7. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

Infeed

Direction

Lder

Fig. 112 Blade Guard Position for Ripping

Anti-kickback Pawls and Spreader Adjust-

ments

1. Go to the outfeed end of the saw blade.

2. Put edge of workpiece beside the blade

and under the pawls.

3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kick-

back pawls and spreader until the spreader

hangs next to the edge of the workpiece and

the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest

on the workpiece.

Making Rip Cuts

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better

visibility of both the workpiece and your

hands than does the out-rip saw position. The

only time you should use the out-rip saw posi-

tion is when the workpiece is 14 inches or

wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest

part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to

take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

411WARNING: If the blade is set be-

tween 2 inches and 6 inches from the

fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers and hand can be

cut off. Use a push stick.

Fig. 113 Anti-kickback Pawl Position

4. Tighten wing screw.

5. Go to the infeed end of the saw blade.

6. Push the workpiece a few inches in the

direction of the cut and then pull the

workpiece back toward you. The pawls

should have grabbed the wood and stopped

the kickback motion by grabbing into the

workpiece. If they did not, repeat adjust-

ments until the pawls grab the workpiece. If

the pawls fail to grab the workpiece, sharpen

or replace them. If that fails to work, use a

featherboard. Repeat steps for making anti-

kickback pawls and spreader adjustments

above.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw

blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a push stick.

_lb WARNING" If the blade is set be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the

fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers/hand can be cut

off. Use an auxiliary fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

_kWARNING: When making through

rip cuts do not set the blade closer than

1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary

fence, your hands will be brought too

close to the blade. Your fingers and

hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial

arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch

wide workpieces.

1. Set the blade to desired distance from the

fence and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table

locks.

3. Make blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjustments.

4. Remove workpiece from table.

5. Turn saw on.

6. Place workpiece under the guard nose,

keeping workpiece edge against the fence.

7. Place one hand flat on the workpiece and

next to fence.

8. Place the other hand behind the first so

that your fingers are:

• on the back edge of workpiece;

• out of the blade path and,

• as close to the fence as possible.

a3, _

dUkWARNING: Even when all steps to

reduce kickback are taken, the

workpiece can still kickback. You or

others in the area can be hit hard

enough to cause broken bones or inter-

nal organ injury. Stand out of the line of

the saw blade and workpiece.

9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece to

be clear of workpiece in case of kickback.

Fig. 114 Hand and Body Position for Making an In-

Rip Cut

10. Position your body at the infeed end of

the saw blade. Start and complete the cut

from that same side.

11. Push the workpiece, putting pressure on

the part of the workpiece between the blade

and the fence. If you push the part of the

workpiece on the other side of the blade, the

blade could be pinched and the workpiece

will kickback.

12. Keep pushing the section of the

workpiece between the blade and the fence

until the piece has been pushed completely

past the anti-kickback pawls.

_lb DANGER: The blade guard does

NOT provide complete protection at out-

feed end of the saw blade. The

workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or pull the workpiece through

the blade, pulling your hand into the

blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut

off. Do not pull, hold-down or touch the

workpiece at the outfeed end of the saw.

Kickback,

Blade Contact.

Fingers,hand or arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for ripping.

Fig. 115 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

13. Turn the saw off

_1_ WARNING: Blade continues to turn

for about 12 seconds after power is

turned off. Do not reach for cut

workpiece until blade stops. Fingers or

hand can be cut off by the turning

blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.

14. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Bevel Ripping

To make a bevel rip cut:

1. Set the saw in the desired position.

2. Index the arm to 0 ° and lock in position.

3. Bevel the blade to the desired angle.

4. Follow steps for making a rip cut.

Note: For dadoing, molding and edging, fol-

low instructions for crosscutting.

Dadoing

1. Instructions for using dado blades are

provided with the dado blade.

2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set

up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado

on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor

nut to spin off. Take several passes of the

dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of

an inch wide.

3. To avoid excessive load on the motor

never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper than

1/8 inch in one pass.

4. When installing the dado on the arbor, al-

ways install the inside loose collar first to en-

sure good arbor nut engagement. Make sure

the arbor nut is snug. Install the arbor nut

directly against the outside of the dado.

Molding

1. Instructions for using the molding head are

provided with the molding head.

2. Use of molding head or drum sander with

the saw arbor vertical requires an opening

(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor

clearance. See Cutting Accessories section to

make a molding fence.

Edging

1. Edging requires the use of a dado or mold-

ing head in the horizontal position (parallel

to table).

2. Use proper accessory guard when edging.

See Recommended Accessories section.

_WARNING: Using the saw without the

proper accessory guard for edging is ex-

tremely dangerous. Hands, fingers or

arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow

instructions for edging guard.

3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with

the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See

Cutting Accessories section to make auxiliary

fence for edging in the 0° miter position.

,_ WARNING: If the auxiliary fence is

not used when the saw arm is in the 0°

crosscut position, the molding head can-

not be located behind the fence for safe

and proper operation.

4. Edging can also be done in the 30 ° left

miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.

Follow the instructions below.

3. Remove saw blade, dado, or other acces-

sory from the saw arbor shaft before using

the accessory shaft. Do not use the saw with

accessories installed on both ends of the saw

arbor shaft at the same time.

4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a

guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid

being pulled into moving parts by hair,

threads, clothing.

• Miter the arm to the left approximate-

ly 30°.

• Swivel the motor until bottom of

motor is parallel to and facing the rip

fence and operating instructions label

is visible.

5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the

drill bit can break. You can be blinded or in-

jured if hit by thrown pieces. Do not use twist

drills longer than 7 inches.

6. Use a spade type drill of 1 inch diameter

or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plas-

tic because the speed is not high enough for

other types of materials.

• Follow all steps outlined on motor

label as shown below.

Know this toot:

1 Read and Understand all warnings and InsIruclion$ on

saw in Owner's Manual and with recommended acces-

series.

2 Properly guard the curling 3 Provide proper workp*ece

tool support

4 Position the culling Iool

behind the lence by mov-

ing the arm tO the left and

clamping Ihe yoke so this

label faces the lence, or

construct an auxlhary

lence per Owners Man-

-- ual

5 With power oHIhe switch

key removed lurn cutting

tool by hand Io make sure

_1_ it does not Slrl_e guard,

fence or any othe¢ saw

parts. _E_,t,I_

Fig. 116 Edging Label

Accessory Safety

1. For your safety use only recommended ac-

cessories. Use of any other accessories may

increase the risk of injury. See Recom-

mended Accessory section of manual.

7. Do not use other reduced shank drills.

8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of

checking to see that adjusting wrenches are

removed from tool before turning it on.

9. When using the accessory shaft in the verti-

cal position, swivel the motor 90 ° so that the

arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.

_,WARNING: Clothing, hair, jewelry can

be caught and pulled into an exposed

arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be

broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft

under the radial arm when using the ac-

cessory shaft.

2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off

wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because

they can break explosively and throw pieces.

You can be blinded or recieve a life threaten-

ing puncture wound. Do not use grinding

wheels, abrasive/cut off wheels or wire wheels.

Fig. 117 Arbor Shaft Position When Usmg Acces-

sory Shaft

Cutting Accessories

Fences

Fences are required for all saw operations.

Crosscutting requires fences with kerfs (slots)

to match the path of the saw, because the saw

blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence

to cut the workpiece.

Ripping requires a solid fence witt: no kerfs

or slots, because the fence serves as a guide

for the workpiece being pushed into the saw

blade. If the workpiece is pushed along a

fence with kerfs, the workpiece can get

caught on a kerr, pinch the blade and cause

the workpiece to kickback.

Make a new fence:

• when the fence used for crosscutting

has weakened from having too many

kerfs cut in it;

• when you want to make a rip cut but

the fence on the saw has kerfs;

• when you want to crosscut a

workpiece higher than your current

fence.

To make a new fence:

1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber. Do not use

particle board or other composite material be-

cause they are not strong enough.

2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length

of the table, and to a width equal to the

height of the workpiece plus one inch. The

installed fence must be equal to or higher

than the workpiece.

Push Stick

Push sticks are used during ripping when the

blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from

the fence.

Make a push stick when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 to 6 in-

ches from the fence;

• existing push stick has been damaged.

To make a push stick:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free) piece of lum-

ber.

2. Cut a piece 15 inches long by 1 5/8 inches

wide.

3. Cut a 45 degree notch in one end as shown.

Slightly Less Than

Thickness of Workpiece

up to 3/8"---_.

--!- '2--h_

Notch--L- __._.

15 "_ 1/2

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 118 Push Stick Dimensions

Fig. 119 Way to Use Push Stick

Auxiliary Fence and Push

Block

An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade

is positioned between 1/2 inch and 2 inches

from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary

fence must always be used with a push block.

Their purpose is to keep your hands away

from the saw blade. They are also needed

when you use the molding head.

Make an auxiliary fence when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 inches or

less from the fence;

• an existing auxiliary fence is not the

same width all along its length;

• the existing auxiliary fence has been

damaged by blade contact.

To make auxiliary fence:

1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood and two

pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 44 inches

long by 5 1/2 inches wide.

3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44 in-

ches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.

4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44

inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.

5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces

together so that they line up square (flush)

on an edge.

6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right

angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide

3/4 inch plywood.

7. Reinforce with nails.

3/8" Plywood

This Face and This

Edge Must Be Parallel

3/4" Plywood

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 120 Auxiliary Fence Dimensions

Push Block

Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary

fence.

Make a push block when:

• the blade is to be placed 1/2 inch to 2

inches from the fence;

• you make the first auxiliary fence;

• existing push block has been damaged.

To make a push block:

1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood and one

piece of 3/8 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood to 12 inches long

by 5 inches wide.

3. Cut a triangular piece off each of two

corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a

pencil in and down from the corners 1 1/4 in-

ches and cutting along the diagonal formed

by the points.

4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 12 inches long

by 5 1/8 inches wide.

5. Cut out a notch from the 12 inch side of

the 3/8 plywood that is 9 1/2 inches long by

3/8 inch wide. The dimensions of the remain-

ing 3/8 plywood are shown in Fig. 165.

6. Glue the 3/4 inch plywood on top of the

3/8 inch plywood so that their 12 inch sides

are square, as shown;

These Edges Must

Be Parallel

5-1/8 t_ _

3/4" Plywood

1-1/4 x

1-1/4

3/8" Plywood

2-1/2

318 318

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 121 Push Block Dimensions

Auxiliary Fence for Edging

Make an auxiliary fence for edging:

• before doing edging with the arm at

0° miter position.

• when existing ones have been

damaged.

To make a fence for edging:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free) lumber.

2. Cut to the dimensions shown.

Auxiliary Fence Spacer Table

Rear Table

7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by

2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside

of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge

that sticks out. Do not use nails because if

you accidently cut into the push block with

the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.

8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary

fence to make sure that their widths match ex-

actly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.

l 45° --z545° " 12-1/43/4

T'- ..L.

[ II I F--d l-

Note: All Dimensions in Inches 3/4--_ _'_'-_1

Fig. 123 Auxiliary Fence for Edging

For use of the molding head or drum sander

with saw arbor vertical, the rear table re-

quires an opening (next to rear face of fence)

for arbor clearance. Cut opening directly

below arbor in vertical position. Opening

dimensions are shown below.

Fig. 122 Way to Use Auxiliary Fence/Push Block

Rear Table-,. I ---,11._1_--3 j1_3-1/2

I--- T

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 124 Rear Table Opening Dimensions

Featherboard

Featherboards are used during rip cutting to

help keep the workpiece against the fence.

The featherboard is clamped to the front

table, so that the angled edge of the feather-

board is against the workpiece on the infeed

end of the blade. The other edge of the

workpiece is against the fence.

Make new featherboards when existing ones

have been damaged.

1. Use solid (knot free) lumber 24 inches by

5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.

2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 in-

ches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down

on the right from the edge of the board.

Draw a line between the points.

3.Crosscut workpiece at a 30 ° angle then rip

to make the kerfs.

4. Do not clamp the featherboard against the

cut off part of the workpiece.

24 5-112

5.-->-'--

4-1/2

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 125 Featherboard Dimensions

_ii_iiiili i i ¸¸....

Fig. 126 Way to Use a Featherboard

Attaching Auxiliary Board to

Crooked Workpiece

If the workpiece you want to rip cut does not

have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board

to the workpiece.

1. Place irregular side of workpiece against

fence.

2. Place straight edged auxiliary board on top

of workpiece and against fence.

3. Tack the auxiliary board to the workpiece.

The auxiliary board must not extend beyond

the leading end of the workpiece and should

cover the workpiece width only enough to

pass between the blade and fence.

3. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than

the combined height of the workpiece and

auxiliary board.

*Recommended Accessories

Item Cat. No.

Saw blades

(10" diameter with 5/8" hole) See Catalog

Caster 9-22254

Sanding Drum 9-25246

Drill Chuck and Key 9-2980

Dust Collector See Catalog

Molding Head Guard 8" 9-29523

Taper Jig 9-3233

Auxiliary Table Cover See Catalog

Miter Square 9-32056

Pin Router 9-32765

Extension Table 9-32787

Satin Cut Dado

7" 9-3257

8" 9-3253

8" Carbide 9-3264

Standard Cut Dado

8" 9-32475

Adjustable Dado

7"-24 Tooth Carbide 9-3261

7"-32 Tooth Carbide 9-3262

7"-16 Tooth Carbide 9-3263

8"-48 Tooth Carbide 9-32708

Molding Heads

7"-Bits Not Included 9-3214

7"-27 Piece Set 9-3217

7"-15 Piece Set 9-3218

Sanding Wheel-10" 9-22723

Blade Stabilizer 9-2952

Cabinet Acessories

Shelf 9-22251

Door 9-22252

3 Drawer Set 9-22253

Books

PowerTool KnowHow Handbook See Catalog

Guards

Lower Retractable Guard 9-29009

(For 90° Crosscut Only)

* Recommended means that these accessories

are designed to fit this radial arm saw. Read and

follow accessory instructions on their use and

limitations.

Lower Retractable Guard

A lower retractable guard which meets

OSHA requirements for occupational use

of the radial saw is available. (See Note)

The lower guard is designed to provide

protection from contact with the fiat sides

of the blade when the radial saw is in the

90 ° crosscut position and in its rearmost

position behind the fence. The lower

guard only provides protection against

minor laceraUons and bruises.

_WARNING: The lower guard does

not provide protection during actual

crosscutting or ripping, or from con-

tact in line with or at an angle to the

saw blade teeth. When in the cut, the

inner and outer guards ride on top of

the fence or workpiece exposing the

saw blade teeth. Fingers, hands or

arm can be cut off if the saw blade is

contacted. Additional hazards are ex-

plained in the instructions accompan-

ing the lower blade guard.

_lb WARNING: The lower blade

guard can get caught or jammed in

fence and table kerfs, jam while set-

ting up for and while making bevel

and compound miter cuts and jam

during certain in-rip cuts. The

workpiece or narrow cut-off pieces

could kickback causing your hands

to be cut by the blade. Use the

lower retractable guard in the 90 °

crosscut position only.

WARNING:

TO AVOID INJURY

SHUT OFF POWER

BEFORE CLEARING A

JAMMED LOWER GUARD

Fig. 127Lower Guard Label

Note: Employers are required to provide the

lower retractable guard unless OSHA grants an

exemption. This saw is designed for use in non-

commercial settings.

Glossary

Anti-kickback Pawls: Pivoted objects with

teeth which help prevent workpiece kickback.

Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw

blade.

Bevel: The slanting of the motor and blade to

an angle between 0° and 90 °.

Crosscut: Cutting a workpiece to length.

Dado: Non-through cut which produces a

square sided notch or trough in the workpiece.

Featherboard: Device used to keep

workpiece in contact with the fence during rip-

ping.

Freehand: Performing a cut without the use

of fence, guide or hold-down designed to

prevent the workpiece from moving during

the cutting operation.

Heel: Misalignment of the blade relative to

blade travel path.

Infeed: The end of the saw blade where the

workpiece is fed during ripping; identified by

the absence of pawls.

In-Rip: Positioning the the motor toward the

front of the table, the blade toward the fence.

Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by

the blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot

produced by the blade in a non-through cut.

Kickback: Uncontrolled throwing of the

workpiece during ripping.

Miter: Positioning the saw arm to the right or

left of 0°.

Molding Cut: Non-through cut which

produces a contoured surface on the

workpiece.

Outfeed: The end of the saw blade where the

rip cut workpiece leaves the saw blade; iden-

tified by presence of pawls.

Out-rip: Positioning the motor toward the

fence, the blade toward the front of the table

during ripping.

Parallel: When two surfaces are the same dis-

tance apart at all points.

Perpendicular: When two surfaces are 90 °

(square) to each other.

Push Block!Auxiliary Fence: Two accessories

used together for ripping a workpiece be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.

Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during rip-

ping a workpiece between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches wide.

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM): Number of

turns completed by an object in one minute.

Ripping: Used to change the width of a

workpiece by cutting along its length.

Spreader: Used during ripping to keep the

kerf from closing and pinching the blade. It

helps prevent kickback.

Workpiece: Object being cut by the saw.

Helpful Hints

In order to get accurate cutting results from

your radial arm saw, do the following:

1. Follow all steps in the Alignment of

the Blade section.

2. Place the long edge of your framing

square against the edge of the

workpiece that will be held against the

fence during cutting. Make sure that

this edge of the workpiece is straight.

3. Make sure that your workpiece lays

flat on the front table of your saw.

4. Clean all sawdust and woodchips

from the table.

5. Hold the workpiece firmly against the

fence and table during all cuts. You

should use extra force during miter and

bevel cuts since the workpiece tends to

move when these cuts are made.

6. Use the right sawblade for each job,

and make sure that all blades and cut-

ting tools are sharp.

3. Place the same edge of the workpiece

against the fence for all cuts. Make the

first cut at one end of the workpiece,

then flip the workpiece over and make

the second cut from the other end. Con-

tinue this way until all four cuts are

made. (Figure 128)

This Edge of Board Fence

Against Fence For All Cuts /

l /)-,I

Turn workpiece over end for end.,

keep same edge against fence when

making successive cuts.

///,.

2nd and 4th Cut

Pencil Line for

Gauging Required Length

_t Scrap

Fig. 128 Making a 4-Sided Frame

When making a four-sided frame:

1. Make sure that the top and bottom

pieces are exactly the same length.

4. Make a pencil line on the table for

gauging the length of each cut.

2. Make sure that both side pieces are

exactly the same length.

Motor

To avoid motor damage this motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust buildup which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

If the motor fails to start, turn the power

switch to the "OFF" position immediately.

Remove the yellow key. UNPLUG THE

TOOL. Check the saw blade to insure that it

turns freely and that its teeth are not wedged

into the table top. After the blade has been

freed, try to start the motor again. If, at this

point, the motor still fails to start, refer to the

"Motor Trouble-Shooting Chart."

If the motor should suddenly stall while cut-

ting wood, the power switch should be turned

off, remove the yellow key and unplug the

power cord. Free the blade from the wood.

The motor may now be restarted and the cut

finished.

Frequently blowing of fuses or tripping of

circuit breakers may result if:

• Motor is overloaded: Overloading can oc-

cur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is mis-

aligned so that the blade heels.

• Motor circuit is fused differently from rec-

ommendations: Always follow instructions

for the proper fuse/breaker. Do not use a

fuse/breaker of greater capacity without

consulting a qualified electrician.

Low voltage: Although the motor is de-

signed for operation on the voltage and fre-

quency specified on the nameplate, normal

loads will be handled safely on voltages not

more than 10% above or below the name-

plate voltage. Heavy loads, however, re-

quire that voltage at motor terminals equal

the voltage specified on nameplate.

• Improper extension cord size.

t 0

Maintaining Your Saw

General

l'k _

4UkWARNING: For your own safety,

turn power switch off and remove plug

from power source outlet before main-

taining or lubricating your saw.

When you receive your new Craftsman radial

saw, it requires no lubrication. The radial

saw has been partially aligned and all bear-

ings are lubricated and sealed for life. In

time, however, in order to keep your saw in

perfect working order and accurate, it will be

necessary to lubricate and realign. In fact

your radial saw needs more of a cleaning

than a lubrication.

Replacing Antikickback Pawls

Make sure the teeth of the antikickbackpawls

are always sharp. If they become dull they

must be replaced. With a 1/2 inch wrench or

socket remove the 5/16 hex nut and old

pawls. Reassemble new antikickback pawls

and spreader to the bar. Check spreader for

proper alignment and correct if necessary.

(See Alignment of the Blade, Installing

Guard / Setting Spreader section.)

Cleaning

Periodically remove any heavy build-up of

sawdust that may accumulate on the saw.

The absorbing tendency of sawdust will draw

lubricants away from the areas where they

are needed. Clean the carriage bearings and

track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease

accumulate repeatedly on carriage bearings

and track inspect the wipers for wear and

replace if necessary. (See Adjustments to

Compensate for Wear, Swivel Lock, later in

this section.)

To avoid motor damage the motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust build-up which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

Lubrication

Your saw is precision built and should be

kept properly lubricated. Before describing

the various points which may periodically re-

quire lubrication, it is more important to first

mention the points which should not be lubri-

cated.

Do not lubricate the following:

• carriage ball bearings

• motor bearings

• area between the miter locking rings

and the column tube

The carriage ball bearings and motor bearings

are sealed ball bearings which require no

added lubrication.

Do lubricate the following, periodically, using

SAE No 10W-30 automotive engine oil:

• Apply a few drops of oil along the

swivel index pin and the bevel index pin

only if the pins have a tendency to

stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for

easy access to the swivel index pin.

Bevel to 45°and bevel indexpin can be

easily accessed behind the yoke as il-

lustrated. (Figure 129)

• Lubricate the cam surfaces of the rip

lock assembly.

• A light film of oil should be wiped on

the face of the column tube to lubricate

the fit between the column tube and

column support. With elevation hand-

wheel raise arm to upper limit.

.The thread on the elevation shaft as-

sembly can be lubricated through the

oil hole in the center of the radial arm

cap. Lubricate ramp on the swivel index

spring.

Fig. 129- Swivel and Bevel Index Pins

.Lubricate the bearing points where the

arm attaches to the column tube. With

a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover for ac-

cess to these points. Be careful not to

get lubricant on the locking rings as this

will adversely affect the miter locking

function. (Figure 130)

• Apply a few drops of oil to the foot as-

semblies, where the levers are inserted

through the rods.

Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any

location will attract airborne dust particles

and sawdust.

Refer to parts lists for locations of parts as

needed.

LOCKING RING

Fig. 130 - Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to

Column Tube

Adjustments for Wear

Bevel Lock

The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the

motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment is

required if the motor can be easily moved by

hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel

lock offers minimal resistance when moving it

to the locked position. To make this adjust-

ment:

Swivel Lock

This handle provides a friction lock between

the upper face of the yoke and the bottom

face of the carriage. It should eliminate any

play or rotation between these two parts when

locked. An adjustment is required if the yoke

can be easily rotated by hand when handle is

locked or yoke lock handle offers minimal

resistance when moving handle to the locked

position. To make this adjustment:

1. Remove motor support cover.

2. Position the motor at approximately 30 °

bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 131)

Fig. 132

Fig. 131- Bevel Lock - Locked

3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex

nut located at the back of the motor support

casting until the motor can no longer be easily

moved by hand. Do not overtighten.

4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any

of the five index positions. If the motor does

not index securely the adjustment is too tight.

Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin

seats properly.

5. Adjustment is complete when both locking

and indexing functions are working properly.

Replace motor support cover.

1. Remove screw and nut from knob on

swivel lock. Remove knob from swivel lock

arm using a regular screw driver.

2. Remove the two screws from swivel lock

arm. This will separate the wrench portion

from the arm portion of the swivel lock.

3. Using the wrench portion tighten the

square nut one quarter rotation at a time. This

is done by locating the wrench across the

corners of the square nut then moving the

wrench until it lines up with the arm portion

and the two screw holes are in line.

Fig. 133

4. Holding the wrench and arm in position

rotate yoke to a non-preset position and

rotate swivel lock to the locked position. If the

yoke can still be moved the square nut has not

been tightened enough. Repeat step 3.

5. When the adjustment is such that the yoke

can no longer be moved when the swivel lock

is in the locked position. Install the two

screws.

6. Unlock swivel arm and rotate yoke to a

non-preset position. Return yoke to a rip

position. If the index pin does not securely

seat at the preset position, the adjustment is

too tight. Remove the two screws and loosen

the square nut one quarter turn until swivel

index pin seats securely.

7. Adjustment is complete when both locking

and preset position functions are working

properly.

8. Re-install the two screws mounting the

wrench portion of the swivel lock.

9. Re-install knob to swivel handle and install

screw and nut in knob.

Arm and Column

With the miter lock unlocked and in the unin-

dexed position the arm should fit snugly to

the column tube and not allow any vertical

movement. If you can move the end of the

arm up and down an adjustment is needed.

1. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover.

2. With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket tighten

evenly the top two 3/8-16 hex head tapping

screws. The bottom two screws should also be

tightened evenly but not as tight as the top

screws. (Figure 134)

Fig. 134 - Location of Hex Head Tapping Screws

3. This adjustment is correct when the arm

moves firmly without vertical movement.

4. Re-install the rear arm cover.

Carriage Bearings

The carriage should roll freely but with some

resistance for the entire length of travel. To

check for bearing looseness, perform the fol-

lowing steps.

1. Place yoke in either the in-rip or out-rip

position.

611

2. Push the carriage back against the rear stop.

3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your

fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage

forward at the same time. If you can prevent

the bearing from turning an adjustment is re-

quired. (Figure 135)

Fig. 135- Front Carriage Bearings

4. Repeat step 3 with the rear carriage bear-

ings.

To adjust the carriage bearings perform the

following steps:

1. Clean and lubricate the bearing races and

the bead on which they ride prior to adjust-

ment.

2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch

wrench to hold the bolt head while using a

1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.

(Figure 136)

Fig. 136- Location of Hex Nut

3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn

(left or right) as required to take up loose-

ness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal

amount to maintain blade squareness to the

table in the rip positions.

4. Hold the head of the eccentric bolts in their

new position and retighten the nuts. Do not

overtighten. Overtightening the bearings will

cause difficult operation and severly reduce

the life of the track and bearings.

5. Repeat the test procedure as described

above and readjust if necessary.

Miter Lock

The miter lock operates adjustable locking

bands which lock the arm to the column tube

in both indexed and unindexed positions. If

the arm can be easily moved by hand when

locked in an unindexed position the following

adjustment must be made.

1. Move the arm to an unindexed position

and leave the miter lock in the unlocked posi-

tion. (Figure 137)

Miter Lock Handle

Fig. 137 - Miter Lock - Unlocked

2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the

1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole

in the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn

the wrench clockwise approximately 1/4 turn.

(Figure 138)

Fig. 138 - Location ot Hex Socket Cap Screw

3. Lock the miter lock and try again to move

the arm. Readjust if necessary.

4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push

the miter lock into the locked position too

much adjustment has been made. Turn the

wrench counterclockwise one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again

to lock the arm.

Rip Lock

The rip lock locks the carriage in any position

along the length of the arm. If the carriage

can be easily moved by pushing and pulling

on the yoke handle when the rip lock is in the

locked position an adjustment is required.

1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position

and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/4-

20 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 139)

L!t

Rip Lock

Lever

Track

Spring Locknut

@ Washer

Cam Carriage

Bolt

Fig. 139 - Location of Hex Lock Nut

2. Lock the @ lock and try again to move the

carriage. Make additional adjustments if

necessary.

3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position

and move the carriage back and forth from

stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to

move at any point or you can feel the n_p lock

dragging on the track the adjustment is too

tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again.

Trouble Shooting

Motor

Problem

A WARNING: To avoid injury, turn

power switch off and remove plug from

power source outlet before trouble

shooting.

Probable Cause

What to Do

Motor will not run.

Low voltage.

Check power line for proper

voltage.

Motor will not run and

fuses blow.

Short circuit in line, cord, or

plug.

Inspect line, cord, and plug for

damaged insulation and shorted

wires.

Short circuit in motor or loose

connections.

Inspect all terminals in motor

for loose or shorted terminals

or worn insulation wires.

Incorrect fuses in power line.

Install correct fuses.

Motor fails to develop full

power.

(Power output of motor

decreases rapidly with

decrease in voltage at

motor terminals. For ex-

ample: a reduction of

10% in voltage causes a

reduction of 19% in maxi-

mum power output of

which the motor is

capable, while a reduction

of 20% in voltage causes a

reduction of 36% in maxi-

mum power output.)

Power line overloaded with

lights, appliances, and other

motors.

Reduce the line load.

Undersize wires or circuit too

long.

Increase wire sizes, or reduce

length of wiring.

General overloading of power

company's facilities.

(In many sections of the

country, demand for electrical

power exceeds the capacity of

existing generating and distribu-

tion systems).

Request a voltage check from

power company.

Motor- 2

Problem

Probable Cause What to Do

Motor overheats.

Excessive feed rate when

crosscutting or ripping.

Slow down rate of feed.

Improper cooling.

(Air circulation restricted

through motor due to sawdust,

etc.)

Clean out sawdust to provide

normal air circulation through

motor.

Saw blade has heel.

Refer to Making Blade Parallel

to Table section.

Motor starts slowly or

fails to come up to full

speed.

Starting switch will not trip due

to low voltage.

Correct low voltage condition.

Motor stalls resulting in

blown fuses or tripped cir-

cuit breakers.

Voltage too low to permit

motor to reach operating speed.

Correct the low line voltage con-

dition.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not

have sufficient capacity.

Replace fuses or circuit

breakers with proper capacity

units.

Frequent opening of fuses

or circuit breakers.

Motor overloaded.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not

have sufficient capacity.

Reduce motor load.

Replace fuses or circuit

breakers.

Saw Operations

Problem

Crosscuts not accurate

0° and 45 ° miter.

Probable Cause

Looseness between column tube

and column support.

What to Do

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Crosscut travel not square

with fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Crosscut Travel.

Column is loose in support. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Arm not indexing properly. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Miter

Lock.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping.

Looseness between yoke and car- Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

riage assembly. Adjustments for Wear, Swivel

Lock.

Sawdust between workpiece and Keep front table clean.

fence.

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Saw cuts at slight bevel

(not 90 ° to table).

Work table not properly leveled. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade not square to table. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Crosscutting.

Carriage Bearings Loose Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping.

Bevel lock loose.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

Saw Operations - 2

Problem Probable Cause

What to Do

Workpiece kerf rough

with tooth marks from

blade (also called heel).

Saw blade not square

to fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Fence.

Saw blade not parallel

to table.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Using improper blade for finish

cut desired.

Use proper smooth cutting

blade.

Wood binds, smokes, and

motor slows down or stops

when ripping.

Dull blade or warped board. Sharpen or replace the saw

blade. Do not use severely

warped material.

Feed rate too fast. Slow feed rate.

Saw blade heels. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Rip-

ping.

Board pulls away from

fence when ripping.

Workpiece strikes

spreader when ripping.

Saw does not travel

smoothly on arm.

Clamping force not suffi-

cient at miter angles other

than 45 ° .

Saw blade has heel.

Spreader not in line with blade.

Dirty track.

Bad bearing.

Worn track.

Miter lock needs adjustment.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Installing Guard / Setting

Spreader.

Clean track and lubricate with

light grease.

Replace bearing.

Replace track.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Miter

Lock.

Saw Operations - 3

Problem

Probable Cause What to Do

Clamping force not suffi-

cient at bevel angles other

than 45 o.

Bevel lock needs adjusting. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

Depth of cut varies from

one end of the workpiece

to the other.

Table top not parallel with arm.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade tends to advance

through lumber too fast.

Dull blade.

Not advancing saw properly.

Replace or sharpen blade.

Draw saw blade across lumber

with a slow and steady pull.

Table cannot be leveled.

(Right side is higher than

left side with no adjustment

left, or vice versa.)

Column support shifted where it

mounts to saw base.

Loosen the six bolts that hold

the column support to the saw

base and shift arm.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

3 \

(SEE FIG. 7)

7 10

19 11

(SEE FIG. 3)

(SEEFIG. 8)

22 2

(SEE FIG. 2)

37 36

*(SEE FIG. 5)

FIGURE 1

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 1

Key Part

No. No. Description

1 STD601103

2 STD551010

3 815857-1

4 815649

5 815777

6 816333-1

7 815778

10 806828-4

11 60128

12 60074

13 37384

14 815989

15 815762

16 815832

17 STD551012

18 STD522506

19 STD532512

20 815834

21 STD551225

22 STD541025

23 815990

24 STD541425

25 817113

817114

26 446188

*Screw, Pan Rec.

Type T 10-32 x 3/8

*Washer, Flat

13/64 x ! 7/32 x 1/16

Screw, Hex Washer Hd.

3/8-16 x 1-1/2

Bearing, Arm

Scale, Miter

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "TT" 10-32 x 1/2

Indicator, Miter

Arm Assembly (see Fig. 5)

Table Boards Set (see Fig. 9)

*Screw, Pan Cross Ty T

1/4-20 x 1-1/2

Washer, 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

Screw, Hex Socket Set

1/4-20 x 7/8

Nut, Tee

Clip, "U" 1/4-20

Bushing, Rubber

Rod, Actuator

*Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/32

*Screw, Hex Hd. 1/4-20 x 5/8

*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 1-1/4

Bushing, Eccentric

*Lockwasher, External 1/4

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

Button, Table Slide

*Nut, Lock 1/4-20

Rail Assembly, L.H.

Rail Assembly, R.H

Washer, 17/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

Key Part

No. No. Description

27 815797

32 i815881

33 1815922

34 '815753

35 8O2955-7

36 815766

37 802279-8

38 62410

39 815764

40 STD601103

41 815869

42 815935

43 805589-5

44 815856-1

Screw, Pan Hd. Rec.

Type AB 1/4 x 1-1/4

Yoke and Motor Assembly

(see Fig. 3)

Guard Assembly (see Fig. 6)

Cabinet Assembly (see Fig. 7)

Base and Column Assembly

(see Fig. 2)

Cap, Trim R.H.

Ledge, Trim

Cover, Lever

Ring, Push-On

Lever, Lock

Bushing

Bracket, Pivot

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "T" #10-32 x 3/8

815980

60208

815774

816115

815773

SP5103

507787

507788

507789

507796

Cap, Trim L.H.

Screw Pan Hd. Ty "BT"

1/4 x 1/2

Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2

Screw, Hex Wash Hd.

5/16-18 x 1-1/4

Bushing

Nut, Push 1/4

Rivet 1/4 x 1/2

Cord with Plug

Cover, Rear Arm

Owners Manual (Not Ills.)

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

16J_

16/_/32

'iJ

16'

FIGURE 2

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 2 - BASE AND COLUMN ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

Part

No=

815857-1

815649

141594-31

815774

815702

602O8

815763

816647

9 815672

10 330751

11 815754

12 815770

13 817149

14 815690

15 STD581043

16 63500

Description

Screw, Hex Washer Hd.

3/8-16 x 1-1/2

Bearing, Arm

*Screw, Socket Hd. Cap

1/4-20 x 1-1/4

17 63618

18 63614

19 STD523107

Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2

Lock Assembly

Nut, Push 1/4

Latch Arm

Screw, Soc. Hal.

Ty "T" 1/4-20 x 3/4

Tube

Fastener

Bellows, Tube

Gib, Column Tube

Screw, Locking Set

1/4-20 x 5/8

Support, Column Tube

*Ring, Retaining 7/16

Washer, Thrust

.502 x .927 x .031

Gear, Pinion

Bearing Lift Shaft

*Screw, Hex Hd.

5/16-18 x 3/4

Key Part

No. No. Description

20 815772

21 STD582050

22 815699

23 STD511105

24 STD551210

25 815707

26 804182

27 9416187

28 STD551031

29 STD551131

30 STD541031

31 815646-2

32 8171O6

33 !STD541450

34 816977

35 816976

36 815771

37 815864

38 815273

39 !3540

40 ,63062

Bushing, Elevation

*Ring, Retaining 1/2

Shaft, Elevating Crank

*Screw, Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2

*Lockwasher, External #10

Handwheel

*Ring, Retaining

Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"

5/16-18 x 3/4

*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

I*Lockwasher, External 5/16

*Nut, Hex 5/16-18

Base Assembly

Washer, Keyed

*Nut, Lock 1/2-13

Gear, Bevel

Shaft, Elevating

Nut, Elevation

Cover, Column Support

Screw, Truss Rec. Hd.

1/4-20 x 1/2

Wrench, Arbor

Wrench, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

MOTOR CORD

_ 15

\\ 16

_21 20

17 18

FIGURE 3

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

12 16

1313

FIGURE 5

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 3 - YOKE AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

815803

810214-2

STD551225

STD551025

75128

808380-6

815682

815683

817162

815678

815679-1

805561-10

815791

815677

815813

!815836

Cap, Motor Support

Screw, Low Hal.,

Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

*Lockwasher, Internal 1/4

*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/16

eMotor

Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4)

Screw, Pan Hd.,

Plastite No. 8 x 1

Cover, Handle

Handle

Grip

Washer, Shaft

Pin, Index

Washer, .505 x 7/8 x 1/16

Spring, Bevel

Lever, Bevel Lock

*Nut, Square 1/2-13

Wedge, Bevel Spring

Key

No.

Part

No.

18 815685

19 815788

20 815686

21 808380-2

22 STD600803

23 815676

24 455734

25 815674

26 815673

27 STD541450

28 62498

29 9-32668

3O 30495

31 9420474

32 815800

Description

Cover, Yoke

Indicator, Bevel

Knob, Bevel Lock

Screw, Pan Hd.,

Plastite No. 8 x 3/8

*Screw, Pan Hd.

8-32 x 3/8

Shaft Support

Pin, Roll 1/8 x 3/4

Plate, Adjustment

Plate, Index

*Nut Lock 1/2-13

Collar, Blade

tBlade, Saw

Nut, Shaft

Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"

10-32 x 1/2

Scale, Bevel

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

l-Stock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order

Houses.

eAny attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create a HAZARD unless repair is done

by a qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the motor support to the motor. This

assembly is factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

7 13 _14

20......_ 19

36 35

FIGURE 4

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 4- YOKE ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

Part

No.

810214-3

STD315485

STD551031

817181

815805

815806

159572-98

815689

STD551062

815817

STD541462

62636

815693

STD541425

273229

16 816497

17 815671

18 815804

19 815692

20 STD532507

21 808380-2

Description

Screw, Low Hd.

Cap 5/16-18 x 7/8

*Bearing, Ball .3150 I.D.

*Washer, 21/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

Wiper, Track

Support Indicator

Indicator Rip

Screw, Hex Wash

Ty "T" 8-32 x 1/4

Carriage

*Washer, .630 x 1-1/8 x 3/32

Nut, Sq. Lock

*Nut, Lock 5/8-11

Nut, Sq. 1/4-20

Bracket, Rip Lock

*Nut, Lock 1/4-20

Screw, Hex Hd.

Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1/2

Spring, Rip Lock

Cam, Rip Lock

Knob, Rip Lock

Lever, Rip Lock

*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 3/4

Screw, Pan Hd.,

Plastite No. 8 x 3/8

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Key Part

No. No. Description

STD541231

STD551131

815691

STD551012

815798

810214-2

28 815645

29 109529

3O 815679

31 81568O

32 9420474

33 815694

34 STD551031

35 63777

36 6O438

37 815807

38 STD41025

39 816988

40 816987

41 816986

42 STD512515

43 STD510602

44 62520

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18

*Lockwasher, External 5/16

Ring, Yoke Index

*Washer, 17/64 x 7/16 x 1/32

Lockwasher, High Collar 1/4

Screw, Low Hd.,

Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

Yoke

Nut, Square 5/8-11

Pin, Index

Spring, Swivel

Screw, Hex Type "T"

10-32 x 3/8

Stud, Yoke Clamp

*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

Bearing, Carriage

Washer, No. 2 Carriage

Bearing

Screw, Eccentric

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

Knob, Swivel

Wrench, Adjustment

Actuator, Swivel

*Screw, Pan Hd. 1/4-20 x 1-1/2

*Screw, Pan Hd. 6-32 x 1/4

Spacer

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 5 - ARM ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

Part

No.

815688

815809

815774

815790

STD601103

815703

815856

8 815779

9 815716

10 815704

11 STD551208

12 803709

13 STD600803

Description

Arm, Radial

Cable

Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2

Actuator Assembly

*Screw, Pan Rec.

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

Knob, Miter Lock

Screw, Hex Washer Hd.

5/16-18 x 3/4

Bushing

Trim, Arm

Housing, Switch

*Lockwasher, Internal #8

Connector, Wire

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "T" 8-32 x 3/8

!Key] PaN

No. No. Desc_ption

14 816113

15 815863

16 815976

17 815938

18 815786

19 816178

20 815867

21 815708

22 815868

23 815670

24 346030

60208

815785

69138

Switch, Locking

Key, Switch

Bezel, Switch

Pad, Guard

Label, Trim L.H.

Sleeve, Rubber

Spring, Compression

Spring, Miter Lock

Relief, Strain

Arm, Carriage Support

Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Plastite #8 x 1/2

Push Nut, 1/4

Label. Trim R.H.

Ring, Cord

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

, 10

18 1_ 11

o 2

FIGURE 6

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 6 - GUARD ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

816264-1

120399

63258

63541

815816

STD551010

STD601103

STD541231

815815

Guard

*Nut, Square 5/16-18

Elbow, Dust

Bar, Anti-Kickback

Guide, Anti-Kickback

*Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

*Screw, Pan Hal.

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/6-18

Pawl

Key Part

No. No.

10 STD581050

11 63270

12 816341

13 60435

14 816070

15 166785-3

16 63538

17 STD510805

18 STD551208

19 STD541008

Description

*Ring, Retaining

Spreader

Bearing (Includes Key #10)

Grip

Screw, Guard Clamp

Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4

Clamp, Guard

*Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 1/2

*Lockwasher, External No. 8

*Nut, Hex 8-32

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

]

FIGURE 7

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 7 - CABINET ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

Part

No.

805589-5

815898

STD541025

STD551225

817150

STD541237

816111

817108

Description

Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2

Skirt 44"

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

*Lockwasher, External 1/4

Panel, L.H. Side

*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16

Cover

Spacer

Key

No.

Part

No,

803835-1

815942

815993

815991

817151

815889

816336

507795

Description

Foot, Leveling

Stiffener, Shelf

Support, Caster

Support, Under

Panel, R.H. Side

Shelf, Lower

Stiffener, Shelf Rear

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 8 - MOTOR ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

i507744

STD376116

64950

64951

64948

30582

Housing, Motor

*Capacitor

Screw, Type "T"

Screw, Flat Head

Screw, Ground

Cap, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 9- TABLE ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

815757

815755

815758

817102

Table, Rear

Table Spacer

Fence, Rip

Table, Front

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

NOTES

_A,/R8

Operators

Manual

SERVICE

MODEL NO.

113.198311

10" RADIAL SAW

WITH 44" CABINET

HOW TO ORDER

REPAIR PARTS

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

Now that you have purchased your 10-inch radial saw, should a need

ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service

Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Be sure to provide all

pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your 10-inch radial saw will be found on a plate

attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOW-

ING INFORMATION:

PART NUMBER

MODEL NUMBER

113.198311

PART DESCRIPTION

NAME OF ITEM

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most

Sears stores. If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will

be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center

for handling.

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. SP5103 Form No. SP5103 Printed in U.S.A. 11/}

Craftsman 113198311 10" Radial Saw

Product's Documents

Operators Manual

Specifications

Craftsman 113198311 Questions and Answers