OWNER'S MANUAL
SEARS
MACHINE
MODEL 385. ,1
IMPO RTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.
Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.
DAN G E R- Toreducether,skofo'ectr,cshock:
1.
2.
3.
4.
An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always
unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
Always unplug before relampmg. Replace bulb with same type rated
15 Watts.
Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug
immediately.
Do not place or store appliance where It can fall or be pulled into a tub
or sink. Do not place in or drop Into water or other liquid.
WAR NING- Toreduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,
or injury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this
appliance ]s used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in
this manual.
3.
Never operate this appliance if ]t has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
worMng properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into
water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service
center for examination, repair, electrical or mechamcal adjustment.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Never operate the appliance with any mr opening blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from
accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Never drop or Insert any object into any opening.
Do not use outdoors.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ('O") position, then remove
plug from outlet.
Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the
cord.
Keep fingers away from all moving pa_s. Special care is required
around the sew_ngmachine needle.
Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the
needle to break.
Do not use bent needles.
Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
It may deflect the needle causing Jt to break.
Switch the sewing machine off ('O") when making any adjustment in
the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the llke.
Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when
remowng covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in a very fine ztgzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc, This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control,
Advice on the operation and care of your machine Is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store,
Please remember, if you have questions about your machne or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you require.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record In space provided below the model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serlal number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference,
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
SECTION 1.
SECTION 2.
SECTION 3.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable case or Cabinet Is Available ........... 2
Locate and Identify the parts ............. 2_3
Identify the Accessories .................. 4
PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ....................... 5_9
o Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ...... 5
o Foot Control Use .................... 5
o Set the Pressure Dial ................ 6
• Setting Spool Pins ...................... 7
• Adjustthe Presser Foot Lever .................. 7
o Accessory Storage Box ................ 8
o Free Arm Sewing: the Removal Extension Table , . 8_9
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do .......... 10_13
a Check Your Presser Foot ................ 10
o Change the Presser Foot ................ 10
• Presser FootTypes .......... 11_13
Choose Your Needle and Thread ......... 13_14
• Check Your Needle ..................... 13
a Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart _ , 14
e To Change Your Needle ............ 14
Prepare the Bobbin .............. 1B_16
a To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ........ 15
• Wind the Bobbin ................. 15
prJpnaSreertytoherBT°obpb[_h'nta_ the a°bb'n H°lder : : : : : : : 17_1 _
• Thread Your Needle .............. 17
o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread .............. 18
• Adjust the Top Thread Tension ........... 19_20
Stitch Selector ................... 20
Stitch Width Control ................ 21
Stitch Length Control .................. 21
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ............ 21
Reverse Stitch Control .................... 22
Starting To Sew .................... 22
LEARN THE STITCHES
Practical Stitch Chart ............... 23_27
Straight Stitches ...................... 28"29
• Straight Stitch ................... 28
• Use the Seam Guides ............... 28
• Turn a Square Corner ...................... 28
o Use the Darning Plate ......... 29
o Topstltching .................... 29
Darmng .............................. 30
Strmght Stretch ............................ 30
Zigzag Stitches ........................ 31_38
Basic Zigzag ......................... 31
6 Satin Stitch ........................ 32
Q Applique ............................. 33
o Bar Tacking ........................ 33
Monogramming ......................... 34
Q Embroidery .......................... 34
o Sew a Button ....................... 35
e Overcasting Stitch ...................... 36
o Rick-Rack Stretch .................... 36
o Three-Step Zigzag ................. 37
o Overcast Stretch Stitching ............... 38
Sergmg or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ......... 38
Blind Hemming ........................ 39
Lace Work .............................. 40
Buttonhole Making .................. 41_47
• Learmngto Sew Buttonholes ............... 41
• Built-in System ....................... 42_43
o Using Buttonhole Attachment ............. 44_47
Sew in a Zipper ......................... 48_49
Shell Stitching ...................... 50
Two-Polnt Shell Stitching ................ 50
Smocking .............................. 51
Stretch Patching ...................... 52
Fagoting Stitch ........................ 52
Herring Bone Stretch .................... 52
Elastic Stretch Stitch ..................... 53
Box Stitching ........................ 53
Two-point Box Stitch ..................... 54
Overedgmg Stitch ......................... 54
Decorate with Geometric Patterns ........... 55
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
When to Do When ....................... 56_57
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replace the Light Bulb .................. 58
Clean the Bobbin Holder .................. 58
Clean the Nook Race and Feed Dogs ............ 59
Oiling the Machine ....................... 59
PARTS LIST ........................... 60_61
INDEX ................................ 62_63
A full line of sewing cabinets _s available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option , _ buy a Carrying Case then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where.
2
Upper Thread Guide
Take-up Lever
Top Thread Tension
Control
Pace Cover Plate
Needle Plate
Thread Spoo! Pins
Bobbin W_nd_ng Spindle
Stitch Width Control
Stitch Length Control
Extension Table
_{Accessory storage bo×l
Arm Cover Plate
Carrymg Handle
Presser Foot
Thumb Screw
Thl
Needle Clamp
Hand Wheel
Push-Pull Clutch
Slttch Selector
Stretch St_lch Adiuster
Presser Foot Lever
Free Arm
Presser Foot
L_ght and
Power Switch
Foot Control
Plug Connector
Nomenclature Plate
Bobbin
Buttonhole opener
Needle set
Lint brush
Darning plate
Large screw drwer Small screw dr_ver
Y
Spool p_n lelt
Zipper loot Stralghl
stitch toot
Sliding
buttonhole foot
Satin stitch
boot
Buttonhole guide
plate
.%
°..o.,.o,°,°.°,.,°._#Y
Buttonhole loot
4
Setupth; Machine
Plug m the Machine and Switch on the Power Foot Control Use
NOTE.
1.
2.
3.
Power supply plug Power
Power _. .J supply
SWitCh
Plug
connec[or
Machine
plug
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF
Check your outlet to be sure_tts a 110 to 120
Volt AC outlet.
Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way.
Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
Push the light and power sw_tch to turn
on the power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power swEtch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
/
Foot control
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your toot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed _mmediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
5
Set the Pressure Dial
Pressure
control
dial
The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate,
Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dlal with the groove as follows.
3 ..... most sewing
2 ..... applique and Cut-Out work
1 ..... basting,'sewingchiffon, lace, organdyandotherlightweightfabrics.
Also for velours and knits (with more stretch).
NOTE: The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so
the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use
it.
6
= Setting Spool Pins
Spool pin leith. 0
i
The spool pins are used for holding the
spools of thread In order to feed thread to
the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pms. Place the
spool felt on the pins. Push down for
storage.
Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
Normal up
posITIOn
High
posit ion
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot.
7
= Accessory Storage Box = Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:
Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.
This feature makes sewing easy for:
The lid of the accessory storage box lifts
open toward you,
Sew=ng accessones are convemently located
in the box.
To Remove the Extension Table
(for free-arm sewing)
t. Gr=p the table with your index finger and thumb
as shown.
2. Pull gently toward you.
The extension table will snap out.
To Attach:
Extension table
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat-bed sewing)
I.
2.
Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.
With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
* Bar tacking to reinforce pockets, plackets
and waistlines on ready-made or home-
made garments to avoid fabric bunching
around the needle.
* Stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs,
or any mreular garment area.
_i_ '"__ _,_ _ _ ,_L_
Darning socks or mending knees, e_bows.
or areas of wear _n children's clothes.
* Sewing buttons on sleeves, waistbands,
etc.
9
• Check Your Presser Foot
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know
what each foot does in order to use them effectively.
Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder, Each presser foot merely
snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.
If you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here rs what you do:
• Change the PresserFoot
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consu{t the
Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various
presser feet.
To Remove:
Foot
To Remove: To Attach:
Turn the screw toward the back of
the machine. Use the large screw
driver.
To Attach:
Presser ba
1. Match the hole in the foot
holder with the threaded hole in
the presser bar.
2. Fit the foot holder screw into
the hole.
3. Tighten the screw by turmng it
toward you.
To Snap Off:
To Snap Off the Presser Foot:
J
Snap-on 1
button
\
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel
toward you,
2. Raise the presser foot,
3. Press the snap-on button on the back of the foot holder. The presser
foot will drop off.
10
. Presser Foot Types
Zigzag Foot
Straight Foot
To Snap On
Gr°°ve _ Pi_n
To Snap On the Presser Foot:
1. Place the presser foot so the hori-
zontal pin on the foot Hes just
under the groove of the foot
holder,
2. Lower the presser foot holder to
lock the presser foot in place.
NOTE: If you do not hear the
presser foot snap in place,
t3ress down on the presser
foot holder firmly until you
hear the snap.
A: Zigzag foot
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag
stitching.
Uses: Zigzag stitching (see page 31),
Bar tacking (see page 33),
Button sewing {see page 35),
Rick-rack stretch (see page 36),
Three-step zigzag (see page 37),
Overcast stretch (see page 38),
Lace work !see page 40},
Two-polnt shell stitching
Isee page 50),
Smocking (see page 51),
Stretch patching (see page 51),
Fagoting (see page 52),
Herring bone stretch (see page 52),
Elastic stretch {see page 53),
Box stitching {see page 53),
Two-point box stitch (see page 54),
Overedging stitch {seepage 54).
H: Stra=ght foot
Use this foot exclusively for straightstitching
using center needle position only.
Uses: Stralght stitching Isee page 2__8),
Topstitching (see page 2_99),
Straight stretch (seepage 30).
11
= PresserFoot Types (Continued)
Sliding Buttonhole Foot Zipper Foot
Satin Stitch Foot
Sliding buttonhole toot
Use this foot for buttonholes of built in
system. It is marked to measure your
buttonholes accurately.
Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 42).
E: Zipper toot
This foot can be set to sew on each side of
your zipper. The edgesof the foot guide the
zipper and keep the seam straight.
Uses: Zipper application (see page 48).
F Satin stitch foot
Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and
outlining applique.
Uses: Satin stitch (see page 32),
Applique (see page 33),
Monogramming (see page 34),
Shell stitching (see page 50),
Geometric dacoratwe stitching
(see page 55).
12
= Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Buttonhole Foot
Burronho)e foot
Use this foot when making buttonholes with
buttonhole attachment system.
Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 44)
Your choice of nead)e and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing,
in your needle case, you wiU find the followmg color-coded needles:
Blue (11 ) ........ for stretch fabrics
Orange (11 ) ........ for lightweight fabrics
Red (14) .......... for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics
Purple (16) ....... for medium*heavy weight and decorat=ve
topstitching on these fabrtcs
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstitching thread,)
Green (18) ......... for heavy wmght fabrics and decorative top-
stitching on these fabrics
o Check Your Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt poet,
2, A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and s)lk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread, It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent tn thickness.
13
Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
FABRIC
Lightwe=ght :
Batiste, Dim=ty, Chiffon,
Silks. Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta_ Voile,
Organdy
Medium Wetght:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percale. Gingham.
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Kmts_
Vinyl Sultlngs, Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Denim, Woo{,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabardine, Velvets,
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Duck Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching
on all types of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Kmts,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cire Tricot
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16*PURPLE
18-GREEN
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Sitk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Polyesler Core/Cotton
Wrap
S;tk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches per
mch)
2--2.5
(10-12 stitches
per mch)
2--3
{8-tO stitches
per inch)
3
{8 st{tches per
mch)
3--4
16-PURPLE Buttonhole Tw=st (6-8 stitches
18-GREEN (Use as top thread only) per inch)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
1 1-BLUE
{STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
2--2.5
(I0-12 stitches
per inch )
14
To Change Your Needle
Fial
side
B_ay
Irom
you
l
Needin clamp screw
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to =ts highest posi-
tion by turning the hand wheel toward
you.
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning _t
toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling It downward.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the fiat side away from you,
4, Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5, Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the
large screwdriver from your accessory storage
box.
= To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine
1, Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide
it towards you.
2. Set aside.
3. Lift out the bobbin, as shown.
o Wind the Bobbin
Bobbin winding spindle
_lutch
1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction
shown.
2. Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you
winding the bobbin.
3. Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown.
4. Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes
out on top.
5. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it clicks.
6. Holding onto end of thread, depress the foot control.
7. When the bobbin is slightly filled, stop the machine and clip the thread coming from
the bobbin.
8. Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbin stops.
9. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the left and clip the thread.
10. Remove the bobbin.
11. Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation.
15
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder
1. Put the bobbin mto the bobbin
holder so that the thread feeds
counter-clockwise (left).
2. PuN about 4 _nches of thread
toward you through the tension
slot @
3. Then pull the thread clockwise
toward the back of the machine
through the slot (_)
4, Slide the bobbin cover plate while
pushing it down slightly over the
bobbin. Allow about 4 inches of
thread to show above the needle
plate.
_reading
* Threading chart is located behind
the face cover plate.
16
= Thread Your Needle
The numbered steps above follow the numbers
on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show places where the thread
loops and then is pulled tight.
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
Raise presser foot lever.
Place spool on spool pin as shown, wlth thread coming from the back of the spool.
I. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.
2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
4. Draw thread down and slip =t through the thread guide.
5. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.
6. Thread needle from front to back.
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
17
,, Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
(
!
Raise presser foot lever. Hold
needle thread loosely in left hand
and rotate handwheel toward
you one complete turn.
2.
Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
top thread.
3. Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 4
to 6 inches of thread clear.
18
= Adjust the Top Thread Tens=on
Top stde ol iabr_c
Top-J
thread
Setting mark
\
Loosen _
Tighten
For Straight Stitch
The tdeal straight st=tch will have threads Iocked between the two layers of
fabric,as shown above, magnified to show detad.
If you look at the stitch,front and back, you will notice that there are no
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the t_ghter the top
thread,
Choose the Correct Tension :
The best tension will depend on;
-- the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
-- the number of fabric layers
-- the type of stitch
The top thread
ts I00 lOOSe
Top side
of tabrlc
The top thread
appear5 on the
under,tale ot the
iabr_c
Tension is too loose:
The top thread
ts [oo t_ght
The bobbin lhread
appears on lhe
upper suriace Ot the
fabric
Tension {s too t_ght:
.{
The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through
bottom of the fabric, The bottom stde the top of the fabric, The top side of
of the stitch wil! feel bumpy, the stitch will feel bumpy.
19
For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side, See
below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top
tension,
Top tension Top tension
Tdo Tight Too Loose
Just Right
Top s_de of JCabrlc
Bottom s_de of Fabric
Top stde of Fabric
Bottom s_de of Fabric
Too Tight: Too Loose:
-- Corner ot each -- The top thread
ztgzag will pull will loop through
together on the bottom side ot
top s_de of fabrics, tabrtc and will be
pulled alrnost
together.
Top side ot Fabrrc
Bottom s_de of Fabric
Just Right:
Minimize the amount
ot top thread visible on
the bottom s_de of
tabrtc without causing
excessive puckering or
causing the bobbin
thread to show on the
top s_de. Results vary
wnh fabric, thread and
sewing conditions.
2O
C3 C3 E3 E3 E3 C3 C3 E3 C3 E3 E3E3 E31 E3 ICI £3 E3 O
Red
indicator
Stitch
,"_ /Selector
The stitch selector control determines the stitch you select,
Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator
on the stitch indicator panel. The bottom row of stitches =sselected when the
stitch length control =sset at the stretch stitch position.
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of
fabric when selecting a stitch.
Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length
control.
ZONES
= Orange ...... Strmght, Zigzag and Utility Stitches
o Green ...... Geometric Decorative Stitches
• Blue ....... Builtqn Buttonhole Making
= Yellow ...... Stretch Stitches
Width
The stitch width control regulates the
width of the stitch you select.
The higher the number, the wider the
stitch.
V Lenglh
StreIch Stitch
The stitch length control regulates the
length of stitch, and also has a stretch
stitches setting.
The higher the number, the longer the
stitch.
0 means no feed.
To select Stretch Stitches, set this
control at Stretch Stitch.
NOTE:
When you select decorative
stitches (green) or builtqn
buttonhole (blue), make sure
that you do not set the stitch
lengh control at "Stretch
Stitch"
Study the orange, green,
yellow and blue sections
around this control. These
are recommended zones of
stitch length and color*coded
to the stitches pictured on
the stitch indicator panel.
4- T --
Rickrack slretch
In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch
adjuster should usuagy be _n a neutral
position (between "+'* and "'_". or
position). When sewing some fabrics, you
may need to adjust this control to
balance the stitches for appearance sake.
{f design seems open like the illustrations
to the left, adjust the control slightly
toward "'-" until design looks like the
center design.
If the design appears to be closed as in
the right hand illustrations, turn the
control toward "'+" until stitching is as
you desire,
21
aove_o
To reverse stitch, hold down this con-
trol during sewing.
Release to sew forward agmn.
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow
each time you s_t down to sew:
1. Inspect the needle, tt should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size
for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new
fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before plamng the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4
inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the
seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust
the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot wtth the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and
the right edge of the mateNa] placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple
seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the
machine will sew.
6_ Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way
that the normal feeding is altered.
9, When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn tt toward you.
22
Practical stitch Chart
Stitch
STRAIGHT
t
t
t
t
t
[
STRAIGHT
STRETCH
ZIGZAG
RICK-RACK
STRETCH
BLIND H EM
STITCH
Stitch
Selectmn
I
I
I
I
III
III
III
IU
Foot and Other Attach,
Straight
Darmng Zipper
_late foot
Straight
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
,%
Zigzag
%
Needle
Check
Chart
on p, 14
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on p. 1!
Check
Chart
on p, 1__4
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Thread
Tensmn
2_6
2_6
3~8
2_6
2N6
Stitch
Length
Orange
Zone
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Pos=tion
O_nge
Zone
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Orange
Zone
Stitch
Width
1_5
2-5
2_3
Uses
Regular searms, zippers, topstitching, darmng,
etc.
Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good
for topst_tch_ng.
Fimsh edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique,
monogram, embroidery, sewng bar tacks.
Decorate garments with one row or several,
Use for fimshlng seams.
Refer to Page
28 _ 30,
48 _ 49
30
31 _ 35
36
39
23
Stitch
OVERCAST
STRETCH
THREE*STEP
ZIGZAG
SMOCKING
STITCH
,,J
SHELL
STITCH
SERGING
Stitch
Selection
_P
<)
<l
o _
I%
Foot and Other Attach.
Zigzag
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Needle
Check
Cha_
on p. 14
Check
Cha_
on p. 14
Check
Cha_
on p. 14
Check
Chart
onp. 14
Blue 111}
on p, 14
Thread
Tension
2~6
I 2~ 6
2~6
4_9
3_6
Stitch
Length
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
O.B_ 1
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Posttion
Orange
Zone
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Stitch
Width
3-5
5
3N5
3_5
3-5
Uses
Use for swlmwear, ski pants and other
garments that require stretch.
Use for finishing seams.
Use m smocking or as a decorative stitch.
F{Msh hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Use on nylon tncot and other llnger;e to
overcast and 5earn.
Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Use on nylon trtcot and other lingerie to
overcast and seam.
Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie,
Referto Page
38
37
51
5O
38
24
Stitch
BOX
STITCHING
ELASTIC
STRETCH
J
J
J
FAGOTING
>
<
>
STRETCH
PATCHING
<>
<>
<>
TWO-POINT SHELL
STITCHING
L>
C
C>
>
¢
Stitch
Select=on
<>
<>
<>
L>
C>
Foot and Other Attach.
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
I
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Needle
Check
Chart
onp. 14
Check
Chart
on p, L4
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
onp. 14
Check
Cha_
on p. 14
Thread
Tension
3_8
3_6
3-8
2-6
3-8
Stitch
Length
Orange
Zone
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Pos_t_on
0.5 _ 2
I
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Orange
Zone
Stitch
Width
3_5
3-5
3-5
Uses
Use for overlapping seams_
Use for applying elastic.
Join two folded edges for decorative
open-work appearance.
Use for patchwork quilting.
Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
This stitch can also be used as a single
overlock stitch as well.
Referto Page
53
53
52
51
5O
25
Stitch
HERRING BONE
STRETCH
33No-POINT
BOX STITCH
L_
r_
OVEREDGE
STITCH
DECORATIVE
GEOMETRICS
SATIN STITCH
Stitch
Selection
C_
C
Foot and Other Attach.
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
Zigzag
Satin
%
Satin
Needle
Check
Cha_
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on p. 1-4
Check
Chart
on p, 1-4
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Thread
Tensmn
2~6
3-8
3-8
3-8
3~8
Stitch
Length
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Ol_ange
Zone
Orange
Zone
Green
Zone
0.5~ 1
Stitch
Width
3-5
3_5
3~5
Uses
Use as hemmmg stitch for blankets, tabl_
cloth and draperies.
Use for overlapping seams.
Use for Overedg=ng.
Decorate garments with one row or several,
one st=tch or a combination.
Use for applique work, also as decorative
fimsh for placemats, blankets, collars,
cuffs and pockets.
Referto Page
52
54
54
55
32
26
Thread Stitch Stitch Uses Refer to Page
Stitch Tension Length Width
2 _ 6 Blue Zone Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 42 N 43
BUTTONHOLE
!il i_
Stitch
Selection
0
Foot and Other Attach.
Sliding
buttonhole
Buttonhole
Needle
Check
Chart
oR p. 1_
Check
Cha_
on p. 14
2_6 4
3_5
IBlue Zone)
Raund-end buttonholes and keyhole
buttonholes.
44 _ 47
27
= Straight Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
, Stitch length
_ control orange
zone
H: Straight foot
NOTE:
Stretch Stitch
/
Best sewing results are
obtained with the straight
stitch foot, but the zigzag
foot will also provide
acceptable results.
28
Before sewing with the straight stitch
foot, always set the stitch width
con_ol to 0 to avoid breaking the
needle.
1. Raise the presser foot,
2. Rinse the needle to its h=ghest
position.
3. Place the edge of the fabric next
to a stitching guide line on the
needle plate (5/8" Is most
common).
4. Draw the threads toward the back
and lower the presser foot.
5. Press the foot control.
8_ Hold the fabnc loosely and gently
guide it along the guide line, so
that it feeds naturally.
Do not force the fabric or try to
pull it tight,
7.
8,
9.
!
At the beginning and end of
seam, you may want to reverse to
lock the stitch.
Raise the presser foot and remove
the fabric.
Cut the threads.
Use the Seam Guides
Cornering guide
The seam guides on the needle plate
are engraved to help you measure seam
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, w_th
the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
Turn a Square Corner
To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge:
1. Stop stitching and lower the
needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabric edge
facing you lines up with the
cornering guide, as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric to line the edge w_th
the 5/8" seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
stitching in the new direction.
Usethe Darning Plate
Darning plate
J
Sometnmes when you sew, you want to control the fabric yourself.
The Darmng Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the tabrrc.
To Put on the Darning Plate:
NOTE: The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the
needle plate. In the darning plate, these holes are slightly to the
right of center.
1. Position the darmng plate with the pros on the bottom.
2. Fit the darmng plate pms into the needle plate holes at the
5/8" mark. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate
holes,
Use the darmng plate In the following ways:
Darning (see page 30),
Button Sewing (see page 35)
Topstttching
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
H: Stra=ght foot
Stitch length
contro_ orange
zone
4
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Topstitchmg emphasizes the lines of
your garment and keeps seams and
edges flat and crisp,
Accent sukts or blouses with one or
two rows of topstitching around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.
Here's How
1÷
2.
3.
Lowerthe presserfoot.
Keep the edge of the fabric next
to the right edge of the presser
foot,
Evenly guide the fabric along this
edge to produce an even row of
topstltchmg 5/8" from the edge.
29
Set the Machine
Top thread
tension
control
2to6
No presser
foot
Darnmg plate
Stitch width
control 0
StitcP; length
control any number
(Rot necessary to
adjust)
Stretch Stitch
3O
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate
(see page 29).
2. Remove presser foot and foot holder
(see page 10), stretch fabric between
embroidery hoops with hole centered.
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
one stitch at the spot where you wash to
start darning.
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
you have covered the darning area.
6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew antother
layer of st_tchlng over the first layer.
NOTE. If your fabric as thin or badly damaged.
use a separate p_ece of fabric under the
hole to reinforce at.
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning
plate and replace foot holder and foot.
Set the Machine
Stitch w_dth
_ 2 3 4
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
H: Stratght foot
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
pOSlt_On
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Th_s stitch is the stretch variation of
the straight stitch, especially develop-
ed for knits and stretch fabrics.
This stitch can also be used for
topst_tching on all fabrics,
Stretch stitching was developed
to be used on stretch fabrics and
kmts. It can be used on other
fabrics as well. It works well on
curved seams and on any
garments that will recmve a great
deal of strain (ie. children's
clothes).
The stretch stitch does not
actually stretch as it _sbeing
sewn, but Es stitched m a
forward and back motLon
(sometimes called a "reverse-
action" stitch), so that _t will
gEve when the fabNc stretches
mstead of breakmg.
Zigzag StitChes
Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control I tO 5
t 234
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch Length
control orange
zone
StrotchStitch
The Stttch and Its Uses
The z_gzag stitch _s one of the most
common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. It can be a utility stitch
tor sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-
mmg, overcasting, mending and darn-
rag. It can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch.
Here's How
There are many ways to sew a z_gzag stltch.
Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.
Satin Stitch page 32,
Applique Work page 333,
Bar Tacking page 33,
Monogramming page 34,
Embroidery page 34,
Button Sewing page 35,
Overcasting page 36,
31
o Satin Stitch
Set the Machine
Top thread
tension
control 3 to 8
F: Satin stitch
foot
Stitch wBdth
control 2 to 5
!234
Stitch length
control 0.5 to !
Stretch Stitch
Or 2_--
Pressure dial: I
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Satin stitch _sa versatile and often
used decorative strtch, but _t can also
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex-
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins).
The Satin stitch _sespemally attractwe
In applique,
Zigzag widlh
SlllCh
length: I
2
3
4
Ctose to 0
Here's How
Once your machine _s set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment
of the fabric you are planmng to use. Too tight satin stitch may pucker some light
weight fabrics.
32
- Applique
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 2 [a 6
Stitch _en_th
control 0.5 to I
[_ Stretch Stitch
F" Satin stitch _/_'-'_
tOOt
Pressure dlal: 2
Baste _or fuse w_th tron-on fabric
joiner) applique pteces on the fabric,
Stttch around the applique making
sure the needle falls along the outer
edge of the applique,
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pLvot the fabric to the rtght
or left.
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 2 to 5
Top thread tension
control 2 1o 6 Stitch length
_k_ control 0.5 to i
2
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
This sttteh is similar to a very short
setm stitch and Js used to reinforce
points "of strata such as corners or
pockets and straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
3."
Monogramming
S_t the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to O
F" Satin stitch
toot
Stitch width
control5
i 2 3 4
©
Stitch length
control 0.5 to I
Stretch Stitch
34
Hera_s How
1.
2.
3,
4.
5.
Set the same as satin stitch.
Back the fabric w_th paper or
mterfacing,
Draw the letters on the fabric
with tailor's chalk.
Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch
width as necessary to form each
pa_ern,
If using paper, carefully remove it
when you have finished sewing.
Embroidery
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control "1to5
lop thread tension
control 2 to 6
NO presser
foot
Stltch length control
AnV number (not
necessary to adjust)
Stretch Stltch
DarNin
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle
plate (see page 29),
2. Remove foot holder (see page 10),
3, Adjust the stitch wtdth as desired
(see page 2j).
4. Draw the design on to the fabric
w_th tailor's chalk.
5. Stretch the fabric between embrot-
dery hoops and place under the
needle,
6.
7,
Lower the presser foot lever to
engage the top thread tension,
Holding the top thread in your left
hand, rotate the hand wheel toward
you one complete turn.
Pull the top thread to draw the
bobbin thread through to the surface
of the fabric.
8. Using a medium speed, stitch along
the marked outline, gufding the
fabric carefully by hand.
• SewaButton
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch width control
Must be adjusted
Stitch length control
Any number Inot
necessarv to adiust}
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
Darning p
Use the darning plate for button sewing (see page 29).
1. Match the center of the button holes to the canter of the slot on the presser
foot.
2.
3,
Adjust the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole.
Lower the foot to hotd the button in ptace.
Turn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the
button.
4. Stitch several times.
To strengthen the shank, cut the
threads leaving a 8" tail, Bring the
needle thread down through the hole
in the button and w_nd _t around the
shank.
Draw the thread to the bottom side
and knot.
35
Overcasting Stitch
Set the Machine
Top thread tens=on
control 3 to8
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
Stitch length
control orange
zone
2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
This zigzag vanatlon is very useful m
garment construction and tn finishing
raw edges of any sewing prolect
Helpful Hints
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the
raw corner of your seam. If you start
right at the edge, the fabric will bunch
up and the stitches will become
tangled.
Rick-Rack Stretch
Set the Machine
Stitch width
lop thread tensmn
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
position
2
Stretch Stitch
The Strtch and Its Uses
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
you m_ght use a zigzag stitch.
This stitch can be used as a decorattve
top stitch as wall.
36
Three-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine
lop thread tens=on
control 2 [o 6 Stitch length
control 0.5 to I
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
The three-step zigzag =s a combination
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere VOU
would use the basic z=gzag stitch. It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step zigzag stitch is espemal-
ly useful for:
- mending
-- sewing patches smoothly and
seeurety.
-- repairing straight tears.
-- f{nishmg seams.
Seam Fimsh_ng (Overcasting}
Place the tabne under the presser foot
so that the edge will be slightty inside
the right hand s_de of the presser toot.
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
Mending
Pos_t_on the tear under the needle so
that the stitching wilt catch both s_des.
37
= Overcast Stretch Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
FOpthread tension
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
pOSltIOR
2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
ThJs stttch can be used for sewing a
seam with an overcast finish.
The seam is formed and finished m
one operation. It can be used when
you are making sw{mwear, sk_ pants
and other garments that requrre
stretch.
Here's How
Place the raw edge of the fabric to
the LEFT of the needle as shown,
Stitch so the needle p=erces the fabric
just short of the outside edge.
Or, place your fabric to allow a 5/8"
seam, then trim seam allowance
after.
Raw or worn edges of older garments
can be overcast to prevent further
raveling.
NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric
needle, which effectively
prevents skipped st{tches.
Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitchin,
Set the Machine
Fop thread tens=on
control 3 to 6
A: Zigzag toot
k
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
i 2 3 4
©
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
posltlon
2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use th_s stitch when you want a
narrow seam that you do not need to
press open flat. It ts _deal for 1/4"
seams on kmts or on medium to
heavyweight woven fabrics where you
want a narrow seam. It _s also great
for making elastic swtm wear.
Here's How
Place the fabric under the presser
foot so that the stitches are made
over the edge.
NOTE:
When using stretch kmt
fabric, use a blue stretch
fabric needle which
effectively prevents
skipped stitches.
38
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 2 to 3
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch length
COntrOl o/ange
zone
Stretch Stitch
i!4"
Light
Weight
Fabric
1/4"
Heavy
Weight
Fabric
1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire. (See overcrastmg page 36).
2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin.
NOTE. For light weight fabrics, you may need a double fold.
3. Fold the material (bottom side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4" of the finished hem edge
showing.
4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag
stitch should just catch the fold of the garment.
5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches.
39
Set the Machine
top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control "1
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzagfoot
Lace acids a fanciful, feminine touch
to blouses and lingerie. Table linens
and pillows become more elegant
when trimmed with lace.
Turn raw edge of fabric under at least
5/8" Place lace underneath and top-
stitch using stretch blind hem stitch.
TNm excess fabric close to stttchlng.
4O
Buttonhole Making
= Learning to Sew Buttonholes
With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of making
buttonholes. You may use the built-in system or you may use the
snap*m automatic buttonhole attachment system.
Choose the buttonhole style
1. Built÷in bottonholes (rectangular).
Choose this style for waistband, cuffs, belt slots or where you will
need only one ortwo buttons.
2. Round end buttonholes (Template No. 213504005, 213505006).
Choose this style for series of buttonholes on dresses, blouses,
vests, jackets or coats.
Tips on buttonholing
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to
use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use,
Always use an interfacing m area of garment where buttonholes are
placed.
Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used, Tear paper away after
stitching, if it Is used..
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top thread tension slightly.
3, Keyhole buttonholes (Template No. 213506007).
Choose th_s style for tailored vests, jackets, coats or any time you
need more room for button shank.
41
Built-in System
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
|11
r--a
13!
° ,
!,!
J
Top thread tens=on
control 2 to fi
control 3 to 5
(Blue zone)
Stitch length
control
Blue zone
Stretch Stitch
_k_ Sliding buttonhole foot
-- J
Adiustmg the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference m buttonholes, you
may alter the buttonhole stitch
density within the blue buttonhole
range on the stJteh length dial.
1. For less density, turn the dial
toward "1"
2. For more density, turn the dial
toward "'0'"
NOTE: Always make a practice but-
tonhole on a scrap fabr=c you
plan to use to find the more
sultabJe strtch length.
42
1. a, Carefully mark the buttonhole
length on your garment.
b. Change to thesliding buttonhole
foot.
e. Insert the garment under the
foot ruth the buttonhole mark-
mg running toward you.
2. a. Move the slider (A) toward you
so that the top mark (C) on the
slider meets the start mark IB).
b. Line up the markings on the
foot w_th the top mark on your
garment.
e, Lower the presser toot.
NOTE: The markings on the slider
are engraved m centimeters.
Q
Coarse
Stllches
tor heavy
iabrics
®
Fine
Slltches
lot lighl
iabr)cs
2
Stretch St_lch
rl
3. a. Set the stitch selector at I'l
b. Sew forward until you reach the
front markmg of your button-
hole.
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
4. a. Setthestitchselectorat [_
k
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c. Stop sewing at the right stitch.
rl
5. a, Set the stitch selector at I_1
b, Sew until you reach the back of
the buttonhole.
c. Stop sewing at the r_ght stitch.
m
6. a. Set the stitch selector at I,I
b, Sew 4 to 6 stitches,
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
7. Remove the fabric and cut the
hole open with the buttonhole
opener m your accessory storage
box.
NOTE:
When sewing at the edge of fabric, set
sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated
sow,orovor,o,J,J m4,J m,.
LJ _ U "L_J
43
= Using Buttonhole Attachment
Buttonhole Attachment System
For more varied and accurate buttonholes, you will enjoy using the button-
hole attachment and templates. Know the parts read carefully how to set up
your machine properiy_ You will need these items for the buttonhole
attachment system.
Guide slot
Measuremen t
arking
Catch
Buttonhole guide plate
Buttonhole templates
Base plate
Buttonhole foot
44
Buttonhole Style and Size
NOTE:
Round End
Buttonhole
Keyhole
Buttonhole
Template 213504005 213505006 213506007
3/8" 1/2" 15/16"1÷1/16" 7/8" 1-1/16"
Sizes
5/8" t3/16" 1-1/4" 1-1/2"' 1-t/4" !-3/8"
Illustrations of buttonhole on template show actual length of
buttonhole to be sewn. You will find the most suitable buttonhole
length easily by matching the button with the proper illustration
on the template.
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 2
Fop thread tenston
control 2 _o 6
stchent
rcontrol 4
_2
4
_ Stretch Stitch
Buttonhole toot
Helpful Hints
You can obtain best results to use
#6D _ #80 light we}ght threads as
bobbin thread.
NOTE. It is advtsable to use a blue
stretch fabric needle when
sewing knits and synthetic
fabrics.
You can obtain buttonholes
with a wider cutting space by
setting the stitch width
control at 1.5 instead of 2.
Top
1.
thread
Pins (A)
fRound
holesiB)
a. Remove the extension table.
b. Raise the needle to _ts high,st position.
c. Remove the foot holder.
d. Pull bobbin thread out about 3" straight back toward rear of machine.
e. Insert hook of base plate into rectangular hole of needle plate.
f. Pull lever back to align the hook with the rectangular hole.
g. Snap base plate down to fit two pins (A) at the back of base plate into
two round holes !B) on needle plate.
Release lever.
45
2.
Guide block
_L i :atch
i Settzng Mark
a. When you have selected the template with the size and style button- 3.
hole you need, slide the template into the guide plate.
b. Pull catch toward you while sliding the template until the button-
hole s_ze you have chosen is at the setting mark.
c. Insert gear of base plate into slot of template and fit guide block
into the center of the guide slot.
Top
lhread
thread
But tonho[e foot
Gear_[_ Sl°t
I
\
Starting
pomt
a. Attach the buttonhole foot.
b, Adjust position of gear so It is aligned with the starting point of
template.
The lever can be used to change gear position.
c. Pull the bobbin thread up through guide slot by turning the hand wheel
toward you while holding top thread.
d. Place the bobbin and top threads to the left side of guide plate.
Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread.
46
Marked __
buttonhole
le
Measurement
maPkings
4. a. Mark your buttonhole position carefully on the garment,
b. Placing your garment behind the machine, mserL it between the gutde
plate and the buttonhole foot as shown,
c. Align marked buttonhole with center marking on buttonhole foot.
d. Line up your fabric edge with the measurement markings on the guide
plate )ust in front of the buttonhole foot as shown.
Pierce the fabric with the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole.
e,
NOTE:
If you want your buttonhole to be 1/2 inch from the garment edge,
line up the fabric with the 1/2 inch markings each time you start to sew
a buttonhole.
5,
a. Lower the buttonhole foot.
b. Start sewing slowly,
c, Allow the machine to do the work by itself.
{Do not try to guide the fabric.)
d. Stop sewing when the needle returns to the position where it begins.
To release the buttonhole base plate, pull the lever toward you and lift the
base plate off the machine.
Adjusting the stitch density
You may alter the closeness of the stitches by turning the stitch length
control from 4 to 3.
Fine stitches tot light
(_) fabrics
Stitch length
control 4
0 _ ÷'-g-
(1_ Coarse stitches
for heavy fabr=cs
Stretch Stitch
47
Fabric Preparation:
Put the top sides of the fabric together
and sew to the end of the zipper
opening, Use the reverse to lock the
stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with stitch
length at "4"' and top thread tension
at "3"',
Top side
o! {abnc
End of openmg
\
Top edge of fabric
Set the Machine
Stitch wJdth
control 0
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
_ Stitch length
control 2
h1_3
Stretch Stitch
E: Zipper
toot
_,v_ k _-The p,n on the_|
% k.h====_ r_ght hands,de }
The pm on the
left hand side
To attach the zipper foot:
= To sew on the left side of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the right pins
on the zipper foot.
• To sew on the right side of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the left pins
on the zipper foot.
To Sew:
1.
2.
3,
/Zipper [eelh
Zipper tape
Reset stitch length at 2 and top
thread tension at 2 to 6.
Fold back the left seam allowance
as shown.
Turn under the right seam allow-
ance to form a 1/8" fold.
PEacethe zipper teeth next to the
1/8" fold and pin in place.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Attach the presser bar to the right
pins on the zipper foot.
Lower the zipper foot on the top
side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
and the zipper tape.
Sew through the fold and the
zipper tape to the point where the
slider begins.
Lower the needle to hold the
fabric and raise the presser foot.
k
48
8. Openthezipper.
9, Lowerthepresserfootendstitch
"herestoftheseam.
10. Close the z_pper and turn the
fabric top s_de up.
1 1. Remove the zipper foot and
attach the presser bar to the left
pins on the zipper foot.
12. Stitch across and below the bot-
tom of the zipper.
13. Turn the corner and continue to
guide the foot along the zipper
teeth, as shown.
Stitch through the fabric and
z_pper tape.
14. Stop about 2" from the top of the
ztpper.
15. Lower the needle into the tabrlc
and raise the presser foot.
16. Remove the basting stitches and
open the zJpper.
17, Lower the foot and stitch the rest
of the seam. Make sure the'fold is
even.
49
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 4 to 9
F: Satin s_itch
foot
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
1234
©
Stitch length
_ont _-o_ orange
zone
g
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a
blind hem over folded fabric. Several
rows of shell stitching are called shell
tucks.
Shell stltchmg can be used to finish
hems, sleeve and neck opemngs.
Shell tucking can be Jsed to create
scalloped tucks on blouses and
lingerie.
i
), ;;
Here's How
1. For best effect:
-- set the stitch length as you
desire.
- you may need to tighten the
top thread tension slightly,
- allow the needle to just
clear the folded edge of the
fabrtc when it zigzags,
2. If you sew rows of shell stitches,
space the rows 5/8" apart.
You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or
soft silky wovens m any direction.
Set the Machine
Stitch width
op thread tensmn
control 3 to 8 Stitch length
_ control orange
2'ORe
2
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
J
This stitch can also be used as a
single overloek stitch as we_L
5O
Smocking Stretch Patching
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
ontrol 2 to 6 Stitch length
_ control yellow
s_re[ch $[itch
pos_tE_n
2
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigza 9 foot
With the stitch Length at "4", sew
straight stitching lines 3/8" apart
across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pu!l out the gathenng stitches.
NOTE. Loosen the top thread
tension to make gathering
easier.
S_t the Machine
Stitch width
control 5
Top _hread t_nsson
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length contro
yellow stretch stitch
position
4
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
For patching worn out elbows or
knees.
51
Set the Machine
Stitch width
1 234
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8 Stitch length
_ control 0.5 to 2
A: Zigzag toot
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch to }ore two pieces of
fabric to create an open work
appearance and add design interest.
Here's How
1.
2.
3.
Fold under each fabric edge 5/8"
and press.
Pin the two edges to paper or
tear-away backing 1/8" apart.
Sew slowly, guiding the fabric
so the needle catches the folded
edge on each side.
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6 Stitch length
'_ control yellow
stretch stitch
position
0
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzagfoot
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use as hemming stitch for blankets,
tablecloth and draperies.
Here's How
Place the fabric top srde up, and sew
3/8" from the edge.
Trim close to stitching. The stitch will
prevent raveling.
52
ElasticStretchStitch
:' _ • _ !; 7
Box Stitch ng
Set the Machine
Stitch wtdth
control 3 to 5
Top thread tension
controt 3 to 6 Stitch length
_ control yellow
Stretch stitch
poslIlOn
0
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
/
Choose thls stitch to attach e[astlcto
Set the Machine
Stitch w_dth
Top threadtension
contro] 3 to 8 Stitch length
_ coRtro_ orBrlge
zone
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
Use this stitch to iota heavy weight
interlining.
Overlap two raw edges together and
use thss stitch to jo{n them.
garments.
1. Mark the elastic into quarters and
match these to the center front,
center back and side seams.
2. Place the m_ddle of the elastic
under the center of the presser
toot and stitch into place, making
sure the elastic _s evenly distri-
buted.
53
Set f_e Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
23#,
@
Top thread tension Stitch length
control 3 to 8 control orange
_ zone 2
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
This stitch is useful for elastic fabrics
tojoin them together.
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension Stitch length
control 3 to 8 control orange
4
Stretch Stitch
A; Zigzag foot
This stitch can be used for a over-
edging stitch.
54
; Decoratewi_ Geometric Patterns
Set the Machine
Top thread tenston
control 3 to 8
F Satin stitch
foot
Stitch width
control 3 Io 5
©
Stitch length
contro_ greeR
zone
Stretch Stitch
The Stitches and Their Uses
These stitches are purely decoratwe,
You can sew one row or several or vary the stitch width and length for
special effects.
Experiment on a scrap of fabric to see what special effects are possible.
Here's How
1. Adjust the stitch width and length as
you desire.
2. Practice the stttch on a scrap of fabric,
3, Mark the lines for decoration on the
fabric, using a washable fabric marker.
4, Lower the needle at the starting point.
5. Lower the presser foot.
6, Gently guide the fabric along the
maked line.
55
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Incorrect s_ze needle. Choose correct stze needle for thread and fabric.
Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension,
Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric, Do not pull fabric; guide rt gently.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin, Rewind bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; gutde it gently.
Incorrect s_ze needle, Choose correct s_ze needle for thread and fabric.
Breaking Needle Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle,
Loose presser foot, Reset presser foot.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
Bunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.
Puckering
Incorrect thread tension.
Using two different s_zes or kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft.
Reset thread tension.
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same s_ze and kind.
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot,
Use underlay of t_ssue paper.
56
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Incorrect s{ze needle. Choose correct stze needle for thread and fabric.
Sk_ppmg Stitches Bent or blunt needle, insert new needle,
Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension.
Starttng to stitch too fast. Start to stitch at a medium speed,
Improper threading, Rethread machme.
Tight upper thread tension, Loosen upper thread tension,
Breaking Upper Thread Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Sharp eye m needle. Insert new needle.
Nicks oF-burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle p ate. or po ish off burrs completely.
Improper bobbin threading. Check bobbin threading.
Breaking Bobbin Thread Lint in bobbin holder or hook race, Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
Remove darnmg plate.
Darning plate m place, Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Stitch Length set at O. Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
Fabric not Moving Thread knotted under fabric,
Push-pull clutch _sdisengaged, to stitch.
Push in the clutch.
Machine Jamrnmg Knocking Noise Thread caught m hook race, Disassemble and clean hook race.
Lint in bobbin holder or hook race. Clean bobbin bolder and hook race.
57
r '!'
f J r
1, Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
CAUTION! The I{£bt butb will be
HOT. Protect your
fingers when you
handle _t.
2,
3,
Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
it.
Put the new bulb in by pushing it
up and turmng _t clockwise.
To _nsure that your machme operates at _ts best, you need to keep the
essential parts clean at all t_mes.
The bobbin area can attract dust and lint, Your machine can become sluggrsh
or knock loudly if a thread is caught.
cover plate
Follow these directfons:
1. Turn off the power or unplug the
machine,
2. Remove the bobbin cover plate by
firmly pulling _t toward you.
3. Remove the bobbin,
Brush or vacuum the dust and lint
out of the bobbin holder.
Replace the bobbm.
6. Slide on the bobbtn cover plate by
pushing it into the grooves.
58
Cleanthe Hook Race and Feed DOgs
oiling the Mach_he
Open face cover plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year. One or
two drops of oil is sufficient.
Remove excess oil, otherwise _t may stem fabrics.
1.
2.
3.
Unplug the machine and remove
the presser foot and needle.
Remove the bobbin cover plate.
Remove the screw on the left stde
of the needle with the large screw
drtver.
4. Remove the needle plate.
6.
5. Take out the bobbin. Lift up the
bobbin holder and remove _t.
Use the lint brush to clean the
feed dogs, hook race and bobbin
holder. Also use a soft, dry
cloth.
r
Red marks
L
7. Line up the red marks and place
the bobbin holder so the knob fits
next to the stopper Jn the hook
race, as shown above.
In case machine Is not used for an
extended time, oil it before sewing.
Use good quality sewing machine oil.
No other oiling is required
Above points are only area which
require oiling on this machine.
59
PARTS LIST
2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11 12
15
21
16 17
22 23
% %
24
%
18
25
13
19
26
14
/
20
6O
All parts listed hereto may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store
or service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
1. PART NUMBER
2. PART DESCRIPTION
3. MODEL NUMBER
4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited
handling.
Ref, No. Part No. Description
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
"20-6868
102403202
813404013
647814020
647814031
647814042
647814053
652806014
685502019
825813005
823803006
822804118
*6854
000009906
820832005
647803004
802424004
647808009
*6889
652802009
213502003
2135O1OO2
213504005
213505006
213506007
213503004
*200002008
*200603009
*200005001
*206613105
*214872600
*941620000
Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
Spool pin felt
No, 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
No. 14 Single needles (RED)
No. 16 Single needles (PUR)
No. 18 Single needles (GRN)
Straight foot
Zigzag foot
Sliding bottonhole foot
Zipper foot
Satin stitch foot
Needle threader
Light bulb
Large screw drwer
Small screw driver
Lmt brush
Buttonhole opener
Oil and lint brush
Darning plate
Buttonhole guide plate
Base plate
Template (Round end small)
Template (Round end large)
Template (Keyhole)
Buttonhole foot
Piping foot
Gathering foot
Pin-tucking foot
Hemmer foot
Walking foot
Ruffler
* These items are not furmshed with the machine, but may be ordered
per instructions above.
61
INDEX
A
Accessory storage box .......... 2, 8
Appliqueing ............ 23, 33
B
Bar tacking .......... 23, 33
Base ....................... 2
Baseplate ............. 4, 48, 60_61
Basic zigzag ................ 23, 31
Blind hemming .......... 23, 39"40
Bobbin ....... 4, 15_16, 58, 60_61
Bobbin holder ........... 16, 5B_59
Bobbin thread ......... 18"-19
Bobbin winding ............. 15
Bobbin winding spindle ....... 2, 15
Box stitching ........... 25, 53
Buttonhole ................. 27, 41
Buttonhole attachment , _ , 27, 41, 44
Buttonhole foot ........ 4, 13, 27, 44_45
Buttonhole guide plate , _ , 4, 27, 44, 60"6t
Buttonhole making ...... 41"47
Buttonhole opener ........ 4, 43, 60_61
Buttonhole template .... 4, 27, 44, 60_61
Button sewing ............... 23, 35
C
Cabinet .............. 2
Changing needle .......... 14
Changing presser foot ......... 10"11
Cleaning hook race and feed dogs 59
Cornering guide ............ 28
D
Darning .......... 23, 29, 31
Darning plate , ,, 4, 29, 31, 34_35, 60_61
Decorative geometric patterns 26, 55
E
Elastic stretch ........... 25, 53
Embroidery ............ 23, 34
Extension table ........... 2, 8
F
Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length
chart ................... 14
Face cover plate ........ 2, 6, 58_59
Fagoting ............... 25, 52
Feed dogs .............. 59
Foot control ................ 3, 5
Free arm sewing .............. 8_9
H
Hand wheel ............ 3, 18
Herring bone stretch ......... 26, 52
Hook race ........... 59
L
Lace work ................ 40
Large screw driver ....... 4, 60_61
Light and power switch .......... 3, 5
Light bulb ........... 57, 60_61
Lint brush ............. 4, 58_61
M
Monogramming .......... 23, 34
N
Needle ......... 13_14, 60_61
Needle clamp ............... 3, 14
Needle plate ............. 2, 16
Needle, thread and fabbc chart ..... 14
Needle threading ..... 17_18
0
Oiling ................. 59
Overcasting stitch .............. 36
Overcast stretch ................ 24, 38
Overedging stitch .... 26, 54
P
Parts list ............... 60"61
Performance problems ........... 56_57
Plug connector ............ 3, 5
Portable case .............. 2
Power switch ............ 3, 5
Practical stitch chart ........ 23"27
Pressure control dial .............. 6
Presser foot ................ 3, 10_13
Presser foot lever .............. 3, 7
Push-pull clutch ................ 3, 15
R
Reverse stitch control ....... 2, 22, 28
Rick-rack stretch stitching ...... 23, 36
S
Satin stitch foot ..............
....... 4, 12, 24, 26, 32_34, 50, 55, 60"61
Sating stitching ........ 26, 32
Seam guides ................ 28
Serglng ................ 24, 38
Serging or pine leaf stretch ........ 24, 38
Sewing light ................ 5
Shell stitching ............ 24, 50
Sliding buttonhole foot ............
............. 4, 12, 27, 42_43, 60_61
Small screw drwer ....... 4, 60_61
Smocking ......... 24, 51
Snap-on button .............. 3, 10
Spool pin felt .......... 4, 7, 60"61
Spool pins ............... 2, 7
Stitch length control ...... 2, 21
Stitch selector .................. 3, 20
Stitch width control ............ 2, 21
Straight stitching ........ 23, 28_29
Straight stitch foot ...............
.......... 4, 11, 23, 28_30, 60_61
Straight stretch stitching .......... 23, 30
Stretch patching ........ 25, 51
Stretch stitch adjuster ........ 3, 21
T
Take-up lever ............... 2, 17
Thread guide .......... 2_3, 17
Three-step zigzag ........... 24, 37
Topstitching ................ 23, 29
62
Topthread............ 17_20
Topthreadtension ......... 19_20
Topthreadtenstoncontrol...... 2,19_20
Turningasquarecorner.......... 28
Two-pointboxstitching........ 26,54
Two-pointshellstitching........ 25,50
Z
Zigzagfoot .................
11,23_26,31,35_40,50_53,60_61
Zigzagstitching............ 23,31_36
Zigzagovercasting.............. 36
Zipperapplication ....... 23,48_49
Zipperfoot ..... 4,12,23,48_49,60_61
63
WARRANTY
FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects m material or workmanship which appear
m the mechamcal components of tile sewing machine head.
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date ot purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, w_ring, switch and
speed control.
FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
For B0 days from tile date ot purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES.
This warranty g_ves you specific legal rights, and you may also have other nghts which vary from state to state.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or serwce, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION
if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electromcaliy transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385 Pr 1ted in Taiwan Part No. 652820003
