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28
UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR
Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old
one did not make. Because the sounds are new to you,
you might be concerned about them. Most of the new
sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls
and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than
they actually are. The following list describes the kinds of
sounds and what may be making them.
• The defrost timer will click when the automatic
defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control
(or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will
also click when cycling on and off.
• Rattling noises may come from the ow of
refrigerant, the water line, or items stored on top of the
refrigerator.
• Your refrigerator is designed to run more efciently to
keep your food items at the desired temperature. The
high efciency compressor may cause your new
refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you
may hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound.
• You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the
air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
• As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound
due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator.
• Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may
cause a popping noise.
• Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost
cycle may cause a sizzling sound.
• You may hear air being forced over the condenser by
the condenser fan.
• You may hear water running into the drain pan during
the defrost cycle.
Problem Possible causes Solutions
REFRIGERATOR
DOES NOT
OPERATE
• The power supply cord is unplugged.
• A household fuse has blown or
circuit breaker tripped.
• The refrigerator control is set to the
OFF position.
•Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle.
• Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with
proper voltage.
• Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
• Refer to the CONTROL PANEL FEATURES.
• Wait about 30 minutes for defrost
cycle to end.
VIBRATION OR
RATTLING NOISE
• The refrigerator is not resting solidly on
the floor.
• Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need
adjusting. See DOOR ALIGNMENT Section.
LIGHTS DO NOT
WORK
• The power supply cord is unplugged.
• LED Light failure.
• Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with
proper voltage.
•Do not remove LED light, it is only to be
removed by a qualied technician.
COMPRESSOR
MOTOR SEEMS TO
RUN TOO MUCH
• The refrigerator that was replaced was
an older model.
• The room temperature is hotter than
normal.
• The door is opened often or a large
amount has just been added.
• The refrigerator was recently plugged
in and the refrigerator control was set
correctly.
• Modern refrigerators with more storage space
require more operating time.
• The motor will run longer under warm
conditions. At normal room temperatures,
expect your motor to run about 40% to 80%
of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect
it to run even more often.
• Adding food and opening the door warms
the refrigerator. It is normal for the refrigera-
tor to run longer in order to conserve energy,
try to get everything you need out of the
refrigerator at once, keep food organized
so it is easy to nd and close the door as
soon as the food is removed. See the FOOD
STORAGE GUIDE section.
• The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to
cool completely.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
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