Contents
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY...............................1
Important Safety Information..............................2
Important Safety Precautions..........................2
Accessories & Modifications ..............................3
Safety Labels .......................................................4
INSTRUMENTS & CONTROLS....................5
Operation Component Locations ........................6
Indicator ..............................................................7
MIL Blink Pattern...........................................7
Current DTC/Freeze DTC ..............................7
Circuit Inspection............................................8
DTC Index ......................................................9
BEFORE RIDING...........................................11
Are You Ready to Ride? ...................................12
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?..... .............13
Pre-ride Inspection ........................................13
BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS ......15
Safe Riding Precautions................................16
Starting & Stopping the Engine ........................17
Fast Idle Knob ..............................................17
Preparation ....................................................17
Starting Procedure ........................................17
How to Stop the Engine ................................18
Break-in Guidelines ......................................19
Contents
SERVICING YOUR HONDA........................21
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance .......................22
Maintenance Safety ...........................................23
Important Safety Precautions........................23
Maintenance Schedule ......................................24
General Competition Maintenance ...................26
Before & After Competition Maintenance........30
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance .....30
After Competition Maintenance ...................30
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations..................32
Seat ....................................................................33
Fuel Tank...........................................................34
Subframe ...........................................................36
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System .......................................................40
Engine Oil .........................................................49
Transmission Oil ...............................................52
Coolant ..............................................................54
Air Cleaner ........................................................56
Crankcase Breather ...........................................58
Engine
Throttle ..............................................................59
Engine Idle Speed .............................................61
Clutch System ...................................................62
Spark Plug .........................................................67
Valve Clearance.................................................68
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin..........................77
Chassis
Suspension.........................................................87
Brakes................................................................91
Wheels...............................................................95
Tires & Tubes....................................................96
Drive Chain .......................................................98
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler ......................................101
Steering Damper..............................................104
Additional Maintenance Procedures ...............107
Appearance Care .............................................109
Contents
ADJUSTMENTS FOR COMPETITION....111
Front Suspension Adjustments........................112
Front Suspension Air Pressure....................112
Front Suspension Damping.........................113
Fork springs ................................................113
Front Suspension Disassembly ...................114
Damper Oil Change ....................................117
Fork Assembly............................................120
Rear Suspension Adjustments.........................126
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load ..............126
Rear Suspension Damping..........................127
Rear Suspension Race Sag .........................128
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions .......................................................130
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines.................131
Tuning Tips .....................................................134
Spark Plug Reading ....................................134
Steering Damper Adjustment ..........................135
Steering Damper Damping .........................135
Steering Damper Adjustment Guidelines........136
Chassis Adjustments........................................137
Rear End .....................................................137
Fork Height/Angle ......................................137
Wheelbase ...................................................137
Gearing ............................................................138
Tire Selection for Track Conditions................139
Personal Fit Adjustments ................................140
Control Positioning .....................................140
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape...........140
TIPS ................................................................141
Transporting Your Motorcycle ........................142
Storing Your Honda.........................................143
Preparation for Storage ...............................143
Removal from Storage ................................143
You & the Environment ..................................144
Troubleshooting...............................................145
TECHNICAL INFORMATION ..................147
Vehicle Identification ......................................148
Serial Numbers ...........................................148
Specifications ..................................................149
Torque Specifications ......................................150
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners .................................150
Oxygenated Fuels............................................153
Competition Logbook .....................................154
Optional Parts List ..........................................156
Spare Parts & Equipment ................................157
Spare Parts ..................................................157
General Tools..............................................157
Honda Special Tools ...................................157
Chemical Products ......................................157
Other Products ............................................157
Wiring Diagram...............................................158
CONSUMER INFORMATION ...................159
Authorized Manuals ........................................160
Contacting Honda............................................161
Your Honda Dealer..........................................162
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only) .............163
Contents
INDEX ............................................................164
QUICK REFERENCE
2012
Honda CRF450R
OWNER’S MANUAL & COMPETITION HANDBOOK
31MEN680
Introduction
Congratulations on choosing your Honda CRF
motocross motorcycle.
When you own a Honda, you’re part of a
worldwide family of satisfied customers – people
who appreciate Honda’s reputation for building
quality into every product.
Your CRF is a high performance racing
motorcycle that utilizes the latest motocross
technology and is intended for competition use in
sanctioned, closed-course events by experienced
riders only.
Be aware that motocross is a physically
demanding sport that requires more than just a
fine motorcycle. To do well, you must be in
excellent physical condition and be a skillful
rider. For the best results, work diligently on
your physical conditioning and practice
frequently.
Before riding, take time to get acquainted with
your CRF and how it works. To protect your
investment, we urge you to take responsibility for
keeping your CRF well maintained. Scheduled
service is a must, of course. But it’ s just as
important to observe the break-in guidelines, and
perform all the pre-ride and other periodic checks
detailed in this manual.
You should also read the owner ’s manual before
you ride. It’s full of facts, instructions, safety
information, and helpful tips. To make it easy to
use, the manual contains a table of contents, a
detailed list of topics at the beginning of each
section, and an index at the back of the book.
As you read this manual, you will find
information that is preceded by a
symbol. This information is intended to help you
avoid damage to your CRF, other property, or the
environment.
Unless you are mechanically qualified and have
the proper tools, you should see your dealer for
the service and adjustment procedures discussed
in this manual.
An official Honda Service Manual for your CRF
is available (page 160). It is the same manual
your dealer uses. If you plan to do any service
on your CRF beyond the standard maintenance
procedures in this manual, you will find an
official Honda Service Manual a valuable
reference.
If you have any questions, or if you ever need a
special service or repairs, remember that your
Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is
dedicated to your complete satisfaction.
Please report any change of address or ownership
to your dealer so we will be able to contact you
concerning important product information.
You may also want to visit our website at
USA: www.powersports.honda.com.
Canada: www.honda.ca.
Happy riding!
California Proposition 65
Warning
WARNING: This product contains or emits
chemicals known to the State of California to
cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm.
NOTICE
ABBREVIATION
Throughout this manual, the following
abbreviations are used to identify the respective
parts or system.
Introduction
Abbrev. term
CKP sensor
DLC
DTC
ECM
ECT sensor
HPSD
IAT sensor
MAP sensor
MIL
PGM-FI
TDC
TP sensor
Crankshaft Position sensor
Data Link Connector
Diagnostic Trouble Code
Engine Control Module
Engine Coolant Temperature sensor
Honda Progressive Steering Damper
Intake Air Temperature sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
Programmed Fuel Injection
Top Dead Center
Throttle Position sensor
Full term
A Few Words About Safety
Your safety, and the safety of others, is very important. And operating this motorcycle safely is an important responsibility .
To help you make informed decisions about safety, this manual contains a section devoted to
Motorcycle Safety, as well as a number of Safety Messages
throughout the manual.
Safety Messages are preceded by a safety alert symbol and one of three signal words:
DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.
These signal words mean:
You WILL be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
You CAN be HURT if you don’t follow instructions.
Of course, it is not practical or possible to warn you about all hazards associated with operating or maintaining a motorcycle. You must use your own good
judgement.
Safety Messages
DANGER
WARNING
CAUTION
Motorcycle Safety
This section presents some of the most important
information and recommendations to help you
ride your CRF safely. Please take a few
moments to read these pages. This section also
includes information about the location of safety
labels on your CRF.
Important Safety Information...............................2
Important Safety Precautions..........................2
Accessories & Modifications ...............................3
Safety Labels ........................................................4
Motorcycle Safety 1
Important Safety Information
Important Safety Precautions
Your CRF can provide many years of pleasure, if
you take responsibility for your own safety and
understand the challenges you can meet in
competitive racing.
As an experienced rider, you know there is much
you can do to protect yourself when you ride.
The following are a few precautions we consider
to be most important.
Never Carry a Passenger.
Your CRF is designed for one operator only.
Carrying a passenger can cause an accident in
which you and others can be hurt.
Wear Protective Gear.
Whether you’re practicing to improve your skills,
or riding in competition, always wear an
approved helmet, eye protection, and proper
protective gear.
Take Time to Get to Know Your CRF.
Because every motorcycle is unique, take time to
become thoroughly familiar with how this one
operates and responds to your commands before
placing your machine, and yourself, in
competition.
Learn and Respect Your Limits.
Never ride beyond your personal abilities or
faster than conditions warrant. Remember that
alcohol, drugs, illness and fatigue can reduce
your ability to perform well and ride safety.
Don’t Drink and Ride.
Alcohol and riding don’t mix. Even one drink
can reduce your ability to respond to changing
conditions, and your reaction time gets worse
with every additional drink. So don ’t drink and
ride, and don’t let your friends drink and ride
either.
Keep your Honda in Safe Condition.
Maintaining your CRF properly is critical to your
safety. A loose bolt, for example, can cause a
breakdown in which you can be seriously
injured.
2 Motorcycle Safety
Accessories & Modifications
Motorcycle Safety 3
Accessories & Modifications
Installing non-Honda accessories, removing
original equipment, or modifying your CRF in
any way that would change its design or
operation, could seriously impair your CRF ’s
handling, stability, and braking, making it unsafe
to ride.
WARNING
Improper accessories or modifications
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding modifications and
accessories.
4 Motorcycle Safety
(For Canada)
Safety Labels
Read these labels carefully and don ’t remove them.
If a label comes off or becomes hard to read, contact your dealer for replacement.
Instruments & Controls 5
Instruments & Controls
Read this section carefully before you ride. It
presents the location of the basic controls on
your CRF.
Operation Component Locations .........................6
Indicator ...............................................................7
MIL Blink Pattern............................................7
Current DTC/Freeze DTC ...............................7
Circuit Inspection.............................................8
DTC Index .......................................................9
6 Instruments & Controls
Operation Component Locations
clutch lever
MIL
front brake lever
engine stop button
throttle grip
fast idle knob
(engine idle speed)
shift lever
kickstarter
rear brake pedal
Instruments & Controls 7
Indicator
The MIL on your CRF keeps you informed,
alerts you to possible problems, and makes your
riding safer and more enjoyable. Refer to the
MIL frequently.
(1)
(1) MIL
The MIL flashes when there is any abnormality
in the PGM-FI system. It should also light for a
few seconds and then go off when the engine is
started.
If the MIL comes on at any other time, reduce
speed and refer to an official Honda Service
Manual available for purchase from your dealer
(page 160).
If the MIL does not come on when it should,
have your dealer check it for problems.
MIL Blink Pattern
The MIL will blink the appropriate DTC number
if the ECM detects an active problem while the
engine is running at less than 4,000 rpm.
The MIL will stay on when engine speed is over
4,000 rpm.
The MIL has two types of blinks: a long blink
and short blink. The long blinking lasts for 1.2
seconds, the short blinking lasts for 0.4 seconds.
One long blink is the equivalent of ten short
blinks. For example, when one long blink is
followed by two short blinks, the MIL is 12 (one
long blink = 10 blinks, plus two short blinks).
When the ECM stores more than one DTC, the
MIL will indicate them by blinking in the order
from the lowest number to highest number.
Current DTC/Freeze DTC
The DTC is indicated in two ways according to
the failure status.
– In the case that the ECM detects an active
problem, the MIL will come on and will start to
blink the DTC when the engine is started.
– In the case that the ECM does not detect an
active problem but has recorded a previous
problem in its memory, the MIL will not come
on. If it is necessary to retrieve any past
problems stored in the memory, refer to an
official Honda Service Manual.
8 Instruments & Controls
Indicator
Circuit Inspection
Always clean around the ECM and keep debris
away from the connectors before disconnecting
them.
A faulty PGM-FI system is often related to
poorly connected or corroded connections. Check
the following connections.
(1) MAP sensor connector
(2) ECT sensor connector
(3) TP sensor connector
(4) IAT sensor connector
(5) Injector connector
(6) No.1/No.2 CKP sensor connector
(7) ECM connector
Remember, circuit inspection is not a “cure-all”
for other problems in your engine ’s PGM-FI
system.
(1) (7)
(5)
(6)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Instruments & Controls 9
Indicator
DTC Index
MIL blinks
1
2
7
8
9
MAP sensor circuit malfunction
MAP sensor performance problem
ECT sensor circuit malfunction
TP sensor circuit malfunction
IAT sensor circuit malfunction
12 Injector circuit malfunction
19 No.1 CKP sensor circuit malfunction
69 No.2 CKP sensor circuit malfunction
Engine operates normally
Engine operates normally
Hard start at a low temperature
Poor engine acceleration
Engine operates normally
• Engine does not start
• Injector, fuel pump and ignition shut down
• Engine does not start
• Injector, fuel pump and ignition shut down
• Engine does not start
• Injector, fuel pump and ignition shut down
Function Failure Symptom/Fail-safe function
Should be serviced by your dealer, unless the owner has proper tools and is technically qualified.
The series of 12, 19, and 69 MIL blinks cannot be checked because the engine cannot be started.
If the engine does not start, check all connector connections and/or refer to an official Honda Service
Manual (page 160) for troubleshooting of the PGM-FI symptom.
Refer to MIL Blink Pattern on page 7.
10 Instruments & Controls
Before Riding 11
Before each ride, you need to make sure you and
your CRF are both ready to ride. To help get you
prepared, this section discusses how to
evaluate your riding readiness, and what items
you should check on your CRF.
For information about suspension, steering
damper, and other adjustments, see page 111.
Before Riding
Are You Ready to Ride?.....................................12
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride? ...................13
Pre-ride Inspection ........................................13
12 Before Riding
Are You Ready to Ride?
Before riding your CRF for the first time, we
strongly recommend that you read this owner ’s
manual, make sure you understand the safety
messages, and know how to operate the controls.
Before each ride, it’s also important to make sure
you and your CRF are both ready to ride.
For information about suspension, steering
damper, and other adjustments, see page 111.
Whether you’re preparing for competition or for
practice, always make sure you are:
• In good physical and mental condition
• Free of alcohol and drugs
• Wearing an approved helmet, eye protection,
and other appropriate riding gear
Although complete protection is not possible,
wearing the proper gear can reduce the chance or
severity of injury when you ride.
WARNING
Not wearing a helmet increases the
chance of serious injury or death in a
crash.
Be sure you always wear a helmet, eye
protection and other protective apparel
when you ride.
Before Riding 13
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?
Competitive riding can be tough on a motorcycle,
so it’s important to inspect your CRF and correct
any problems you find before each ride. Check
the following items (page numbers are at the
right):
Pre-ride Inspection
Check the following before each ride:
• Engine oil level .............................................50
• Transmission oil level ...................................53
• Fuel line for condition ..................................40
• Coolant for proper level............................... 54
• Cooling system and hoses for condition.......55
• Spark plug for proper heat range, carbon
fouling and spark plug wire terminal for
looseness .......................................................67
• Air cleaner for condition and
contamination................................................56
• Clutch lever adjustment and freeplay ...........62
• Breather drain for cleaning ...........................58
• Steering head bearing and related parts
for condition................................................107
• Steering damper operation ..........................104
• Throttle operation .........................................59
• Tires for damage or improper inflation
pressure ........................................................96
• Spokes for looseness.....................................95
• Rim locks for looseness ................................95
• Front and rear suspension for proper
operation .................................................87, 88
• Front and rear brakes, check operation ........91
• Drive chain for correct slack and adequate
lubrication ...............................................98, 99
• Drive chain sliders and drive chain rollers
for damage or wear .................................98, 99
• Exhaust pipe/Muffler for looseness ............101
• Every possible part for looseness (such as
cylinder head nuts, engine mounting
bolts/nuts, axle nuts, handlebar holder bolts,
fork bridge pinch bolts, drive chain adjuster ,
drive chain guide, wire harness connectors,
kickstarter mounting bolt) ...................150-152
• Indicator ..........................................................7
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before riding
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.
Always perform a pre-ride inspection
before every ride and correct any
problems.
14 Before Riding
Basic Operating Instructions 15Basic Operating Instructions 15
Basic Operating Instructions
This section gives basic information on how to
start and stop your engine as well as break-in
guidelines.
Safe Riding Precautions................................16
Starting & Stopping the Engine .........................17
Fast Idle Knob ..............................................17
Preparation ....................................................17
Starting Procedure ........................................17
How to Stop the Engine................................18
Break-in Guidelines ...........................................19
16 Basic Operating Instructions16 Basic Operating Instructions
Basic Operating Instructions
Safe Riding Precautions
Before riding your CRF for the first time, please
review the
Important Safety Precautions
beginning on page 2 and the previous section,
titled
Before Riding.
For your safety, avoid starting or operating the
engine in an enclosed area such as a garage.
Your CRF’s exhaust contains poisonous carbon
monoxide gas which can collect rapidly in an
enclosed area and cause illness or death.
Basic Operating Instructions 17Basic Operating Instructions 17
Starting & Stopping the Engine
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described below.
Your CRF can be kickstarted with the
transmission in gear by pulling in the clutch lever
before operating the kickstarter.
Fast Idle Knob
The fast idle knob has two functions:
• When pulled out, the fast idle knob assists in
first-time start-up for cold weather starting.
• When pushed in, it acts like an idle
adjustment screw. Refer to
Idle Speed
Adjustment
on page 61.
Preparation
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral.
Starting Procedure
Always follow the proper starting procedure
described as follow.
Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant
levels before starting the engine (pages 50, 53, 54).
Cold Engine Starting
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. If the temperature is 95°F (35°C) or below,
pull the fast idle knob (1) fully out.
(1) fast idle knob
3. With the throttle closed, operate the
kickstarter starting from the top of the
kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom
with a rapid, continuous motion.
4. About a minute after the engine starts, push
the fast idle knob back all the way to fully
OFF.
If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.
(1)
Warm Engine Starting
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Kick-start the engine. (Do not open the
throttle.)
If Dif
ficult to Start After Stalling
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately 10 times
to discharge excessive fuel from the engine.
3. Kick-start the engine. (Do not open the
throttle.)
Snapping the throttle or fast idling for more than
about 5 minutes may cause exhaust pipe and
muffler discolorations.
18 Basic Operating Instructions
Starting & Stopping the Engine
18 Basic Operating Instructions
How to Stop the Engine
(1)
(2)
(1) throttle (2) engine stop button
Normal Engine Stop
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Lightly open the throttle (1) two or three
times, and then close it.
3. Push and hold the engine stop button (2) until
the engine stops completely.
Emer
gency Engine Stop
To stop the engine in an emergency, push and
hold the engine stop button.
Basic Operating Instructions 19
Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and
performance by paying extra attention to how
you ride during the first operating day or 15
miles (25 km).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and
rapid acceleration.
This same procedure should be followed each
time when:
• piston is replaced
• piston rings are replaced
• cylinder is replaced
• crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced
Break-in Guidelines
20 Basic Operating Instructions
Servicing Your Honda 21
Servicing Your Honda
Keeping your CRF well maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
protect your investment, get maximum
performance, avoid breakdowns, and have more
fun.
To help keep your CRF in good shape, this
section includes a Maintenance Schedule for
required servicing and step-by-step instructions
for specific maintenance tasks. You’ll also find
important safety precautions, information on oils,
and tips for keeping your CRF looking good.
An ECM system is used on this motorcycle;
consequently, routine ignition timing adjustment
is unnecessary. If you want to check the ignition
timing, refer to the Honda Service Manual (page
160).
An optional tool kit may be available. Check
with your dealer’s parts department.
Before You Service Your Honda
The Importance of Maintenance ........................22
Maintenance Safety ............................................23
Important Safety Precautions........................23
Maintenance Schedule .......................................24
General Competition Maintenance ....................26
Before & After Competition Maintenance.........30
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance .....30
After Competition Maintenance ...................30
Service Preparations
Maintenance Component Locations...................32
Seat ....................................................................33
Fuel Tank ...........................................................34
Subframe ...........................................................36
Service Procedures
Fluids & Filters
Fuel System ........................................................40
Engine Oil ..........................................................49
Transmission Oil ................................................52
Coolant ...............................................................54
Air Cleaner .........................................................56
Crankcase Breather ............................................58
Engine
Throttle ...............................................................59
Engine Idle Speed ..............................................61
Clutch System ....................................................62
Spark Plug ..........................................................67
Valve Clearance..................................................68
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin ...........................77
Chassis
Suspension..........................................................87
Front Suspension Inspection ...........................87
Rear Suspension Inspection ............................88
Recommended Fork Oil ..................................89
Fork Oil Change..............................................89
Brakes.................................................................91
Wheels................................................................95
Tires & Tubes.....................................................96
Drive Chain ........................................................98
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler .......................................101
Steering Damper...............................................104
Additional Maintenance Procedures ................107
Appearance Care ..............................................109
22 Servicing Your Honda
WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before you
ride can cause a crash in which you can
be seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the inspection and
maintenance recommendations and
schedules in this owner’s manual.
The Importance of Maintenance
Keeping your CRF well-maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
get maximum performance during each moto.
Careful pre-ride inspections and good
maintenance are especially important because
your CRF is designed to be ridden in of f-road
competition.
Remember, proper maintenance is your
responsibility. Be sure to inspect your CRF
before each ride and follow the Maintenance
Schedule in this section.
Servicing Your Honda 23
Maintenance Safety
This section includes instructions on how to
perform some important maintenance tasks.
Some of the most important safety precautions
follow. However, we cannot warn you of every
conceivable hazard that can arise in performing
maintenance. Only you can decide whether or
not you should perform a given task.
Important Safety Precautions
• Make sure the engine is off before you begin
any maintenance or repairs.
This will help eliminate several potential
hazards:
Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine
exhaust.
Be sure there is adequate ventilation
whenever you operate the engine.
Burns from hot motorcycle parts. Let the
engine and exhaust system cool before
touching.
Injury from moving parts. Do not run the
engine unless instructed to do so.
• Read the instructions before you begin, and
make sure you have the tools and skills
required.
• To help prevent the motorcycle from falling
over, park it on a firm, level surface, using an
optional workstand or a maintenance stand to
provide support.
• To reduce the possibility of a fire or
explosion, be careful when working around
gasoline. Use only a non-flammable (high
flash point) solvent such as kerosene —not
gasoline— to clean parts. Keep cigarettes,
sparks, and flames away from all fuel-related
parts.
WARNING
Failure to properly follow maintenance
instructions and precautions can cause
you to be seriously hurt or killed.
Always follow the procedures and
precautions in this owner’s manual.
24 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Schedule
To maintain the safety and reliability of your
CRF, regular inspection and service is required as
shown in the Maintenance Schedule that follows.
The Maintenance Schedule list items that can be
performed with basic mechanical skills and hand
tools. Procedures for these items are provided in
this manual.
The Maintenance Schedule also includes items
that involve more extensive procedures and may
require special training, tools, and equipment.
Therefore, we recommend that you have your
dealer perform these tasks unless you have
advanced mechanical skills and the required
tools. Procedures for items in this schedule are
provided in an official Honda Service Manual
available for purchase from your dealer (page
160).
Service intervals in the maintenance schedule are
expressed in terms of races and riding hours. To
avoid overlooking required service, we urge you
to develop a convenient way to record the
number of races and/or hours you ride.
If you do not feel capable of performing a given
task or need assistance, remember that your
Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is fully
equipped to maintain and repair it. If you decide
to do your own maintenance, use only Honda
Genuine Parts or their equivalents for repair or
replacement to ensure the best quality and
reliability.
Perform the pre-ride inspection (page 13) at each
scheduled maintenance period.
Summary of Maintenance Schedule Notes and
Procedures:
Notes:
1. Clean after every moto for dusty riding
condition.
2. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires
mechanical skill.
3. Replace after the first break-in ride.
4. Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5. Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch
discs and plates are replaced.
6. Replace every year.
Maintenance Procedures:
I: inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate or replace
if necessary
C: clean
A: adjust
L: lubricate
R: replace
Servicing Your Honda 25
Maintenance Schedule
ITEMS
FUEL LINE
FUEL PUMP FILTER
THROTTLE OPERATION
AIR FILTER
CRANKCASE BREATHER
SPARK PLUG
VALVE CLEARANCE
ENGINE OIL
ENGINE OIL FILTER
ENGINE IDLE SPEED
PISTON AND PISTON RINGS
PISTON PIN
TRANSMISSION OIL
RADIATOR COOLANT
COOLING SYSTEM
DRIVE CHAIN
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER
DRIVE CHAIN ROLLER
DRIVE SPROCKET
DRIVEN SPROCKET
BRAKE FLUID
BRAKE PADS WEAR
BRAKE SYSTEM
CLUTCH SYSTEM
CONTROL CABLES
EXHAUST PIPE/MUFFLER
SUSPENSION
SWINGARM/SHOCK LINKAGE
FORK OIL EXCEPT DAMPER
FORK OIL DAMPER
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS
WHEELS/TIRES
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
(NOTE 6)
(NOTE 6)
(NOTE 1)
(NOTE 4)
(NOTE 3)
(NOTE 3)
(NOTE 5)
(NOTE 2)
(NOTE 2)
(NOTE 5)
(NOTE 3)
I
I
C
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I, L
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I, L
I
I
I
I
40
44
60
56
58
67
68-76
49
50
61
77
80
52
54
54
98
98
99
100
100
92
94
91
62
107
101
87, 88
29, 88
89
117
108, 150-152
95-97
107
R
L
R
I
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
I
FREQUENCY
NOTE Ref. Page
Each race
or about
2.5 hours
Every 3 races
or about
7.5 hours
Every 6 races
or about
15.0 hours
Every 9 races
or about
22.5 hours
Every 12 races
or about
30.0 hours
WE RECOMMENDED THESE ITEMS BE SERVICED BY REFERRING TO AN OFFICIAL HONDA SERVICE MANUAL.
This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machine subjected to severe use require more frequent servicing.
NOTE: 1.Clean after every moto for dusty riding condition.
2.Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.
3.Replace after the first break-in ride.
4.Inspect after the first break-in ride.
5.Replace the transmission oil, if the clutch discs and plates are replaced.
6.Replace every year.
Perform the Pre-ride Inspection (page 13) at each scheduled maintenance period.
I: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. A: Adjust. L: Lubricate. R: Replace.
26 Servicing Your Honda
General Competition Maintenance
Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using
an optional workstand, or equivalent support.
When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with
the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten
them to the specified torque using a crisscross
pattern.
Use Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalent
when servicing your CRF.
Clean parts in non-flammable (high flash point)
cleaning solvent (such as kerosene) when
disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surface,
O-rings, and seals before reassembling. Grease
parts by coating or filling where specified.
After any engine disassembly, always install new
gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, piston pin clips,
snap rings, etc. when reassembling. After
reassembly, check all parts for proper installation
and operation.
All Pre-ride Inspection Items
Refer to Pre-ride Inspection page 13.
Spark Plug
Some non-resistor plugs may cause ignition problems. Refer
to the recommendations elsewhere in this manual for specific
types so you will be sure to use the proper reach and heat
range. Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance
Schedule (page 25).
Engine Oil and Filter
Drain and replace engine oil often to ensure the greatest
service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft.
Also replace engine oil filter often to ensure the greatest
service life. Frequent changes will also assure consistent
performance of power and response (page 50).
Air Cleaner
Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly because the volume
of air able to pass through it has a great effect on
performance. Both engine performance and long term
durability may be affected by an air cleaner that has
deteriorated and allows dirt to pass. Inspect the air cleaner
closely each time it’s serviced for evidence of small tears or
seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and ready to
install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty conditions
may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing it with a
pre-serviced air cleaner between motos. Be careful not to
over oil the air cleaner. While it is important to oil the air
cleaner thoroughly, over oiling will cause an overall rich
running condition, probably more noticeable off idle and in
low rpm performance. Follow the servicing instructions in
the Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or
an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner flange where
it contacts the air cleaner housing. Pro Honda White
Lithium Grease, or an equivalent, is handy for this because
any dirt that penetrates this sealing area will show up clearly
(page 56).
Use the Honda Genuine air cleaner or an equivalent air
cleaner specified for your model.
Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda air
cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may cause
premature engine wear or performance problems.
Transmission Oil
Drain and replace transmission oil often to ensure the
greatest service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent
changes will also assure consistent performance of both
shifting and clutch action (page 53).
Air Cleaner Housing Sealing
Remove and reseal the air cleaner housing boot where it
connects to the air cleaner housing with Pro Honda Handgrip
Cement or equivalent if there is any doubt to its sealing
integrity. Inspect the air cleaner and air intake tract regularly
for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.
Spark Plug Cap
Install a small plastic tie-wrap around the spark plug cap to
reduce any possibility of it loosening or of water
penetration.
Servicing Your Honda 27
General Competition Maintenance
28 Servicing Your Honda
General Competition Maintenance
Handgrips
Always use Pro Honda Handgrip Cement when replacing
handgrips.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual (page 160) for
installation instructions.
Throttle Grip
Right throttle grip: Align the index mark on the throttle grip
with the index mark of the throttle pipe.
Left handlebar grip: Align the index mark on the left
handlebar grip with the paint mark on the handlebar.
For added security, you may choose to bind the handgrips to
the handlebar and throttle pipe with safety wires to prevent
the possibility of them loosening. Position the twisted wire
ends away from your palms and be sure to bend the wire
ends well into the handgrip rubber so they will not snag your
glove.
Throttle Control
Remove the throttle control every few rides, clean the inside
of the throttle pipe and handlebar thoroughly. Inspect the
cable carefully for kinks or other damage that may restrict
throttle control in anyway. Move the handlebar from lock to
lock to be sure there is no cable interference. Make certain
the throttle operation is perfect after servicing and
inspecting.
Gaskets
Always use new gaskets when reassembling components.
Cylinder head/Cylinder
Put a little grease on the dowel pins of the cylinder head and
cylinder to prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals. The
tolerances are quite tight, so it’s important to keep these
dowels absolutely clean (pages 77, 79).
Fuel Line
Refer to Fuel System on page 40.
Check the fuel line for deterioration, damage, or leakage.
Replace the fuel line every year.
Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts
Make sure the engine mounting bolts and nuts are tightened
to the proper torque specification. For added peace of mind,
remove the nuts, clean the threads, and apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent prior to torquing the nuts.
Electrical Connectors
Clean electrical connectors and wrap them with electrical
tape to reduce the possibility of unwanted disconnections,
water shorts or corrosion. Additional corrosion protection is
offered by using Pro Honda Dielectric Grease on all
electrical connections.
Suspension Linkage Lubrication
Disassemble, clean, inspect and lubricate all suspension
linkage pivot bearings with grease after each 7.5 hours of
running time in order to maintain proper suspension
performance and minimize component wear.
Swingarm Pivot Lubrication
Clean, inspect and lubricate the swingarm and suspension
linkage pivots with grease. Be sure all of the dust seals are
in good condition.
Swingarm
Do not attempt to weld or otherwise repair a damaged
swingarm. Welding will weaken the swingarm.
Footpegs
Worn footpeg teeth can be repaired by filing the grooves
between the teeth with a triangular shaped file.
Be aware that filing them too sharp will reduce boot sole
lifespan. Sharpen only the points of the teeth. Filing the
grooves deeper will weaken the footpegs. Be sure the pegs
are free to pivot freely and that the pivot pin retaining cotter
pins are in good condition.
Brake Fluid Replacement
Refer to Brake Pad Wear in your Owner’s Manual, page 94.
Brake Caliper Inspection: Be sure both the front and rear
calipers are able to move freely on the caliper pin and caliper
bracket pins. Check pad thickness periodically and replace
the pads when minimum thickness is reached. If the brakes
fade when they are hot, inspect the pads for glazing or
damage, and replace if necessary.
Brake Fluid Replacement: Refer to an official Honda
Service Manual (page 160) for brake fluid replacement
instructions. Replace the brake fluid in the brake system
every 2 years. Replace the fluid more frequently if you
subject your brakes to severe use. Heavy braking heats the
brake fluid and it may deteriorate sooner than expected. Any
type of riding, that requires frequent use of the brakes, such
as in tight woods, can shorten the service life of brake fluid.
Steering Head Bearings
Periodically clean, inspect and regrease the steering head
bearings — especially if wet, muddy or extremely dusty
courses are encountered often.
Use urea based multi-purpose grease designed for high
temperature, high pressure performance (example:
EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by KYODO YUSHI, Japan
or Shell Stamina EP2 or equivalent)
Bleed Hole
After every race, check the bleed hole below the water pump
cover for leakage. Clean away any clogged dirt or sand, if
necessary. Check for signs of seal leakage. If water leaks
through the bleed hole, replace the mechanical seal. If oil
leaks through the bleed hole, replace the oil seal. Make sure
that there is no continuous coolant leakage from the bleed
hole while operating the engine. A small amount of coolant
weeping from the bleed hole is normal. See an official
Honda Service Manual or consult your dealer for replacing
the mechanical seal or oil seal. Both seals should be
replaced at the same time.
Fork Oil/Performance
Disassemble, clean and inspect the fork and replace the oil
regularly. Contamination due to the tiny metal particles
produced from the normal action of the fork, as well as
normal oil breakdown, will deteriorate the performance of
the suspension. Refer to an official Honda Service Manual
(page 160). Use only KHL15-11 (KYB) which contains
special additives to assure maximum performance of your
CRF’s front suspension.
Frame
Because your CRF is a high-performance machine, the frame
should not be overlooked as part of your overall competition
maintenance program. Periodically inspect the frame
closely for possible cracking or other damage. It makes
good racing sense.
Spokes
Check spoke tension frequently between the first few rides.
As the spokes, spoke nuts and rim contact points seat-in, the
spokes may need to be retightened. Once past this initial
seating-in period, the spokes should hold their tension. Still,
be sure your race maintenance program includes checking
spoke tension and overall wheel condition on a regular basis
(page 95).
Nuts, Bolts, Etc
Application of a thread locking agent to essential fasteners
offers added assurance and security. Remove the nuts, clean
the threads of both the nuts and bolts, apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent and tighten to the specified
torque.
GREASE
GREASE
GREASE
Servicing Your Honda 29
General Competition Maintenance
(1) chain adjuster index marks
• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and
use the fork air pressure release screws (2) to
release the built-up pressure (in excess of
normal atmospheric pressure: 0 psi (0 kPa, 0
kgf/cm
2
)) in the fork tubes. This pressure is
caused by normal fork action while riding. (If
you are riding at altitude, remember that fork
pressure of 0 at sea level will increase as
elevation increases.)
30 Servicing Your Honda
Before & After Competition Maintenance
(1)
(2)
After Competition Maintenance
It is important to the long term performance of
your CRF to practice a consistent maintenance
program. Right after the event is a good time to
begin your next maintenance cycle.
After Race Lubrication
Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the
drive sprocket and any steel portions of the
chassis or engine where the paint has worn away .
This will prevent rusting of the exposed metal.
Apply rust-inhibiting oil more heavily if the
event was particularly wet or muddy. Take care
to avoid spraying any oil near the brake pads or
the brake discs.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers
between the chain and sprocket.
Remove the drive chain, clean and lubricate it
(pages 99, 100). Be sure the chain is wiped clean
and is dry before lubricating the chain.
(2) fork air pressure release screws
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance
After practice or between motos you have a
chance to make additional checks and
adjustments.
• Clean accumulated dirt from under the
fenders and off the wheels, suspension
components, handgrips, controls, and
footpegs. A stiff, nylon parts cleaning brush
works well.
• Check tire air pressure.
•
Check spoke tension, and make sure the rim
locks are secure.
• Check to make sure the sprocket bolts and
nuts are secure.
• Clean the sides of the drive chain with a stif f,
nylon parts-cleaning brush. Lubricate and
adjust the chain as necessary.
Do not perform maintenance while engine is
running. Injury to your fingers or hands may
result.
• After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster
index marks (1) are in the same position on
each side. This will ensure that the rear wheel
is in proper alignment and allow maximum
performance from the rear disc brake.
Maintaining proper wheel alignment will also
extend brake pad wear.
Servicing Your Honda 31
Before & After Competition Maintenance
Routine Cleaning
If your CRF is only slightly dirty, it is best to
clean it by hand with the aid of a stif f bristled
nylon brush and some clean rags.
Take care to prevent catching your fingers
between the chain and sprocket.
A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes
are available from variety, drug, food, and
hardware stores. Some of these brushes are
extremely useful in removing dirt from the many
tight contours of the metal pieces of your CRF .
Avoid using stiff, abrasive brushes on the plastic
or rubber parts.
If your CRF was exposed to sea air or salt water ,
rinse it as soon as possible after the event, dry it,
and apply a spray lubricant to all metal parts.
If you decide to wash your CRF or use cleaners,
refer to
Appearance Care (page 109).
32 Servicing Your Honda
Maintenance Component Locations
front brake
caliper
engine oil
filter
engine oil
fill cap
transmission
oil drain bolt
drive chain
crankcase
breather
tube
rear suspension
spring pre-load
adjuster
air cleaner
fast idle knob
(engine idle speed)
spark plug
rear brake
caliper
rear brake
fluid reservoir
rear brake
pedal
transmission oil
fill cap
engine oil
drain bolt
transmission oil
check bolt
front suspension
rebound damping
adjuster
front suspension compression
damping adjuster
steering damper
adjuster
rear suspension
rebound damping
adjuster
rear suspension high speed
compression damping adjuster
rear suspension low speed
compression damping adjuster
·
·
clutch lever
front brake lever
front brake fluid reservoir
throttle grip
radiator cap
fuel fill cap
Servicing Your Honda 33
Seat
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Removal
1. Remove the seat mounting bolts (1).
2. Remove the seat (2) by sliding it backward.
Installation
1. Install the seat while aligning the seat front
prong (1) with the seat bracket (2) and seat
rear prong (3) with the ECM bracket (4).
2. Install and tighten the seat mounting bolts to
the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(4)
(1) seat mounting bolts (2) seat
(1) seat front prong (3) seat rear prong
(2) seat bracket (4) ECM bracket
34 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel Tank
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Removal
1. Remove the seat (page 33).
2. Remove the shroud A bolts and collars (1).
3. Remove the shroud B bolts (2) and shrouds (3).
7. Remove the fuel tank bolt and collar (7).
(2)
(1)
(3)
(5)
(7)
(6)
(8)
(11)
(10)
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive.You can be burned or seriously
injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(8) fuel feed hose (11) fuel tank stopper cable
(10) fuel tank
10. Check for interference between the frame and
tank and adjust the cushion rubbers (12) if
necessary.
(1) shroud A bolts and collars (3) shrouds
(2) shroud B bolts
4. Install a hose clamp (4) to the breather tube
(5) and shut the hose clamp securely.
(5)
(4)
(4) hose clamp (5) breather tube
5. Pull the breather tube (5) out of steering stem
nut.
6. Unhook the fuel tank band (6).
(5) breather tube
(6) fuel tank band
(7) fuel tank bolt and collar
8. Unhook the fuel feed hose (8) from the
clamp (9).
(12)
2.4 in (60 mm)
(12) cushion rubbers
(8) fuel feed hose (9) clamp
9. Pull the fuel tank (10) out of the frame and
hang it to the left of the frame.
Check the fuel tank stopper cable (11) for
deterioration, kinks or other damaged.
Do not support the fuel tank by the fuel feed
hose (8).
(8)
(9)
Servicing Your Honda 35
Fuel Tank
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
Installation
1. Install the fuel feed hose (1) to the clamp (2)
if it is removed.
(1) fuel feed hose (2) clamp
2. Install the fuel tank (3) on the frame.
3. Install the collar and fuel tank bolt (4).
4. Hook the fuel tank band (5).
5. Put the breather tube (6) in the steering stem
nut (7).
6. Remove the hose clamp (8) from the breather
tube.
(6) breather tube (8) hose clamp
(7) steering stem nut
7. Install the shrouds (9) by aligning shroud
tabs (10) with the air cleaner housing cover
tabs (11).
(3) fuel tank (5) fuel tank band
(4) collar and fuel tank bolt
(12)
(13)
(10)
(11)
(9)
(9) shrouds
(10) shroud tabs
(11) air cleaner housing cover tabs
(12) shroud B bolts
(13) collars and shroud A bolts
8. Install the shroud B bolts (12), collars and
shroud A bolts (13).
Tighten the shroud B bolts to the specified
torque:
3.7 lbf·ft (5 N·m, 0.5 kgf·m)
9. Install the seat (page 33).
36 Servicing Your Honda
Subframe
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Removal
1. Remove the side covers (1) by removing the
seat mounting bolts (2) and bolts (3).
2. Remove the seat (4).
(1) side cover (3) bolts
(2) seat mounting bolts (4) seat
3. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt (5).
(3)
(4)
(2)
(1)
(5) muffler clamp bolt
(5)
(15)
(16)
4. Remove the muffler mounting A bolt (6),
muffler mounting B bolt (7), washer A (8),
washer B (9) and muffler (10).
(6) muffler mounting A bolt (9) washer B
(7) muffler mounting B bolt (10) muffler
(8) washer A
5. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector (11).
6. Remove the ECM mounting rubber (12) from
the ECM bracket (13).
Unhook the fuel tank band (14).
(12) ECM mounting rubber
(13) ECM bracket
(14) fuel tank band
7. Loosen the screw (15) on the air cleaner
connecting tube clamp (16).
(15) screw
(16) air cleaner connecting tube clamp
(6)
(10)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(12)
(14)
(13)
(11) IAT sensor connector
(11)
Servicing Your Honda 37
Subframe
8. Remove the right subframe lower bolt (17)
and left subframe lower bolt (18).
Remove the subframe upper bolts (19).
(17) right subframe lower bolt
(18) left subframe lower bolt
(19) subframe upper bolts
9. Slightly pull the subframe (20) backward and
disconnect the crankcase breather tube (21)
from the air cleaner connecting tube.
Remove the subframe.
Be careful not to damage the ECM and wires.
(20) subframe
(21) crankcase breather tube
(19)
(18)
(19)
(17)
Left side: Right side:
(20)
(21)
(1)
(1) crankcase breather tube
2. Position the ECM (2) in the bracket (3).
3. Align the shroud tabs (4) with the air cleaner
housing cover tabs (5).
4. Loosely attach the upper and lower end of the
subframe to the main frame while connecting
the air cleaner connecting tube (6) to the
throttle body (7).
5. Loosely install all subframe bolts.
Installation
1. Connect the crankcase breather tube (1).
(2) ECM (5) air cleaner housing cover tabs
(3) bracket (6) air cleaner connecting tube
(4) shroud tabs (7) throttle body
(4)
(2)
(3)
(7)
(6)
(5)
6. Align the subframe with the rear wheel and
tighten the subframe upper bolts (8), left
subframe lower bolt (9) and right subframe
lower bolt (10) to the specified torque:
subframe upper bolts:
24 lbf·ft (33 N·m, 3.4 kgf·m)
left subframe lower bolt:
24 lbf·ft (33 N·m, 3.4 kgf·m)
right subframe lower bolt:
36 lbf·ft (49 N·m, 5.0 kgf·m)
(8) subframe upper bolts
(9) left subframe lower bolt
(10) right subframe lower bolt
(8)
(9)
(8)
(10)
Left side: Right side:
(cont’d)
Subframe
38 Servicing Your Honda
7. Make sure the air cleaner connecting tube
tab (11) aligns with the air cleaner connecting
tube clamp hole (12).
(11) air cleaner connecting tube tab
(12) air cleaner connecting tube clamp hole
8. Tighten the screw (13) on the air cleaner
connecting tube clamp to the specified torque:
0.5 lbf·ft (0.7 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
Check the distance between the band ends is
0.18 ± 0.06 in (4.5 ± 1.5 mm).
(11)
(12)
9. Hook the fuel tank band (14).
Install the ECM mounting rubber (15) to the
ECM bracket (16).
(14) fuel tank band
(15) ECM mounting rubber
(16) ECM bracket
(15)
(14)
(16)
(18) muffler clamp (20) exhaust pipe
(19) gasket (new)
13. Install the muffler (21).
14. Install the muffler clamp (18) by aligning the
tab (22) of the muffler clamp with the
cutout (23) of the muffler.
(20)
(19)
(18)
(13) screw
(13)
0.18 ± 0.06 in
(4.5 ± 1.5 mm)
(17) IAT sensor connector
(17)
(18) muffler clamp (22) tab
(21) muffler (23) cutout
(23)
(21)
(22)
(18)
11. Remove the old gasket from exhaust pipe.
12. Install the muffler clamp (18) and a new
gasket (19) to the exhaust pipe (20).
10. Connect the IAT sensor connector (17).
Subframe
Servicing Your Honda 39
15. Install the washer A (24), washer B (25),
muffler mounting B bolt (26) and muf fler
mounting A bolt (27).
(24) washer (A)
(25) washer (B)
(26) muffler mounting B bolt
(27) muffler mounting A bolt
16. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt (28) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
(27)
(26)
(24)
(25)
17. Tighten the muffler mounting B bolt (26) and
muffler mounting A bolt (27) to the specified
torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
18. Install the seat (29).
19. Install the side covers (30), seat mounting
bolts (31) and bolts (32). Then tighten the seat
mounting bolts and side cover bolts to the
specified torque:
seat mounting bolts:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
side cover bolts:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
(26) muffler mounting B bolt
(27) muffler mounting A bolt
(29) seat
(30) side covers
(31) seat mounting bolts
(32) bolts
(32)
(29)
(27)
(26)
(31)
(30)
(28) muffler clamp bolt
(28)
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Fuel
Use only unleaded fuel in your CRF. If you ride
your CRF in a country where leaded fuel might
be available, take precautions to use only
unleaded fuel.
Your engine is designed to use any unleaded
gasoline that has a pump octane number of 91 or
higher. Gasoline pumps at service stations
normally display the pump octane number.
For information on the use of oxygenated fuels,
see page 153.
Use of lower octane gasoline can cause persistent
“pinging” or “spark knock” (a louder rapping
noise) which, if severe, can lead to engine
damage. (Light pinging experienced while
operating under a heavy load, such as climbing a
hill, is no cause for concern.)
If pinging or spark knock occurs at a steady
engine speed under normal load, change brands
of gasoline. If pinging or spark knock persists,
consult your dealer.
Never use stale or contaminated gasoline. Avoid
getting dirt, dust or water in the fuel tank.
Type Unleaded
Pump Octane Number 91 (or higher)
40 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
Refueling Procedure
1. To open the fuel fill cap (1), pull the breather
tube (2) out of the steering stem nut (3). Turn
the fuel fill cap counterclockwise and remove
it.
(1) fuel fill cap (3) steering stem nut
(2) breather tube
2. Add fuel until the level reaches the bottom of
the filler neck.
Fuel Tank Capacity:
1.51 US gal (5.7R)
Be careful not to damage the fuel pump while
filling the fuel tank.
Avoid overfilling the tank. There should be no
fuel in the filler neck.
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
seriously injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
(1) fuel quick connect fitting cover
(2) fuel line
(3)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(2)
3. Close the fuel fill cap and insert the breather
tube in the steering stem nut.
Fuel Line
1. Hang the fuel tank to the left side of the frame
(page 34).
2. Remove the fuel quick connect fitting cover
(1).
3. Check the fuel line (2) for cracks,
deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace the
fuel line, if necessary.
4. Install the fuel quick connect fitting cover.
5. Install the fuel tank (page 34).
Servicing Your Honda 41
Fuel System
Fuel Pressure Relieving
1. Hang the fuel tank to the left side of the frame
(page 34).
2. Disconnect the fuel pump connector (1).
(1) fuel quick connect fitting cover
(2) fuel pump
(3) fuel quick connect fitting
5. Remove the bolt (4), clamp and setting
rubber (5).
(1)
(2)
Injector side: Fuel Pump side:
(3)
(1)
Fuel Line Replacement
Disconnection
1. Relieve the fuel pressure (page 41).
2. Hang the fuel tank to the left side of the frame.
3. Remove the fuel quick connect fitting cover
(1) from the fuel pump (2).
4. Check the fuel quick connect fitting (3) for
dirt, and clean if necessary.
(1) fuel pump connector
3. Reposition the fuel tank and start the engine
and let it idle until the engine stalls.
(4) bolt (5) clamp and setting rubber
(5)
(4)
6. Pull and release the joint rubber (6) of the
injector side from the retainer (7).
(6) joint rubber (injector side only)
(7) retainer
7. Place a shop towel (8) over the fuel quick
connect fitting.
(6)
(7)
(8) shop towel
Injector side: Fuel Pump side:
(8)
(cont’d)
Fuel System
42 Servicing Your Honda
8. Hold the connector with one hand and squeeze
the retainer tabs (9) with the other hand to
remove them from the locking pawls (10).
Pull the connector off, then remove the retainer.
• Use a shop towel to absorb the remaining
fuel in the fuel feed hose.
• Be careful not to damage the hose or other
parts.
• Do not use tools.
• If the connector does not move, keep the
retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately
pull and push the connector until it comes
off easily.
(9) retainer tabs
(10) locking pawls
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
seriously injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
Injector side: Fuel Pump side:
(9)
(9)
(10)
(10)
9. To prevent damage and keep foreign matter
out, cover the disconnected connectors (11)
and fuel joints (12) with plastic bags (13).
(11) disconnected connector
(12) fuel joint
(13) plastic bags
(13)
(12)
(11)
Connection
1. Insert a new retainer (1) into the connector (2)
by aligning its locking pawls (3) with the
connector grooves (4).
• Always replace the retainer of the quick
connect fitting when the fuel feed hose is
disconnected.
• If the joint rubber is damaged or cut, replace
it with a new one.
• Do not bend or twist the fuel feed hose.
• If any retainer needs replacing, use the same
manufacture’s retainer as the ones being
removed (The various manufacture’s feature
different retainer specification).
(1) retainer (new) (3) locking pawls
(2) connector (4) connector grooves
(2)
(4)
Align
(1)
(3)
Fuel System
Servicing Your Honda 43
2. Install the joint rubber (5) and seat it onto the
fuel joint as shown. Align the fuel quick
connect fitting with the fuel joint. Then press
the quick fitting onto the pipe of the fuel joint
until both retainer pawls lock with a “click”.
If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of
engine oil on the pipe end.
(5) joint rubber (injector side only)
(5)
3. Make sure the connection is secure and that
the pawls are firmly locked into place; check
visually and by pulling the connector.
4. Make sure the joint rubber (5) is in place
between the flange (6) and retainer tab (7).
(5) joint rubber (injector side only)
(6) flange
(7) retainer tab
5. Install the rubber (8), clamp (9) and bolt (10)
by aligning the clamp tab (11) with the groove
(12) of the stay.
(5)
(7)
(6)
6. Install the fuel quick connect fitting cover
(13) and set the rubber cover tab (14) to the
hole (15) of the fuel quick connect fitting
cover.
Be sure the rubber cover (16) is properly
installed between the fuel quick connect fitting
cover and fuel pump.
(13) fuel quick connect fitting cover
(14) rubber cover tab
(15) fuel quick connect fitting cover hole
(16) rubber cover
7. Increase the fuel pressure (page 44).
(13)
(15)
(14)
(16)
(8) rubber (11) clamp tab
(9) clamp (12) groove
(10) bolt
(10)
(11)
(12)
(9)
(8)
44 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
Fuel Pump Filter Replacement
Empty the fuel tank into an approved gasoline
container using a commercially available hand
siphon or an equivalent method.
Be careful not to damage the fuel pump while
draining the fuel in the fuel tank.
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
seriously injured when handling fuel.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
Removal
1. Relieve the fuel pressure (page 41).
2. Disconnect the fuel line (page 41).
3. Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts (1),
stopper cable guide (2), stopper cable (3),
washers (4), collars (5), conical spring
washers (6) and fuel pump plate (7) while
holding the fuel tank.
4. Remove the fuel tank.
Be careful not to drop the fuel tank when remove
the stopper cable.
(1) fuel pump mounting bolts
(2) stopper cable guide
(3) stopper cable
(4) washers
(5) collars
(6) conical spring washers
(7) fuel pump plate
5. Remove the fuel pump unit (8) and O-rings
(9).
Be careful not to damage the fuel pump unit.
(8) fuel pump unit (9) O-rings
6. Disconnect the fuel pump wire terminals (10)
from the fuel pump base (11).
Be careful not to damage the wires when
disconnect the fuel pump wire terminals.
(10) fuel pump wire terminals
(11) fuel pump base
(7)
(6)
(5)
(4)
(1)
(3)
(2)
(8)
(9)
(11)
(10)
Servicing Your Honda 45
Fuel System
7. Check the hooks (12) of the fuel pump unit
holder and tabs (13) on the fuel pump base for
damage or discoloration.
If the hooks and tabs are damaged or
discolored, replace the fuel pump unit as an
assembly.
8. Release the hooks of the fuel pump unit
holder from the grooves (14) on the fuel pump
base tabs while pushing the holder against the
base and slightly spreading the base tabs.
Be careful not to damage the hooks and tabs.
9. Remove the fuel pump unit holder assembly
(15) from the fuel pump base (16) and remove
the O-ring (17).
Wipe the spilled out fuel immediately.
(15) fuel pump unit holder assembly
(16) fuel pump base
(17) O-ring
10. Remove the fuel pump stopper (18) and
damper rubber (19).
(12) hooks (14) grooves
(13) tabs
(18) fuel pump stopper
(19) damper rubber
11. Remove the fuel pump assembly (20) with
fuel pump filter (21), O-ring (22) from the
fuel pump unit holder (23).
(20) fuel pump assembly
(21) fuel pump filter
(22) O-ring
(23) fuel pump unit holder
12. Check the fuel pump filter (21) for clog,
damage or deterioration and replace if
necessary.
13. Remove the fuel pump filter from the fuel
pump assembly (20).
(20) fuel pump assembly (21) fuel pump filter
(12)
(13)
(14)
(13) (14)
(15)
(17)
(16)
(18)
(19)
(23)
(22)
(20) (21)
(20)
(21)
46 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
Installation
1. Install a new fuel pump filter (1) onto the fuel
pump assembly (2) aligning its hook (3) with
the joint boss (4) completely.
Be careful not to damage the hook.
(1) new fuel pump filter (3) hook
(2) fuel pump assembly (4) joint boss
2. Apply small amount of silicone grease to a
new O-ring (5).
Install a new O-ring to the fuel pump
assembly (6).
3. Install the fuel pump assembly with fuel pump
filter into the fuel pump unit holder (7) while
routing the fuel pump red (8) and black (9)
wires through the holder grooves (10) as
shown.
(5) new O-ring (8) red wire
(6) fuel pump assembly (9) black wire
(7) fuel pump unit holder (10) grooves
4. Install a new damper rubber (11) to the fuel
pump filter as shown.
Install fuel pump stopper (12).
(11) new damper rubber (12) fuel pump stopper
5. Apply small amount of silicone grease to a
new O-ring (13).
Install a new O-ring to the fuel pump base
(14).
6. Install the fuel pump unit holder assembly
(15) into the fuel pump base while aligning its
hooks (16) with the grooves (17) in the fuel
pump base tabs (18).
If the gap between the hooks and tabs is more
than 0.04 in (1.0 mm), replace the fuel pump
unit.
Be sure that the hooks are completely seated.
(13) new O-ring
(14) fuel pump base
(15) fuel pump unit holder assembly
(16) hooks
(17) grooves
(18) tabs
(2)
(3)
(4)
(1)
(10)
(10)
(7)
(9)
(9)
(8)
(8)
(10)
(10)
(5) (6)
(11)
(12)
(13)
(14)
(17) (18)
(17) (18)
(15)
(16)
Servicing Your Honda 47
7. Connect the fuel pump red (19) and black (20)
wire terminals to the fuel pump base terminals
(21). Push the wire terminals until they stops
as shown.
Be careful not to damage the wires.
8. Apply 0.5 g maximum of engine oil to a new
O-ring (22).
Install a new O-ring onto the fuel pump unit
(23).
(19) red wire terminal
(20) black wire terminal
(21) fuel pump base terminals
(22) new O-ring
(23) fuel pump unit
9. Install a new O-ring (24) into the fuel tank
groove.
10. Install the fuel pump unit (25) into the fuel
tank (26).
Be careful not to damage the wires.
(24) new O-ring (26) fuel tank
(25) fuel pump unit
11. Install the fuel pump plate (27) with its
identification mark (28) facing toward the
front side and facing up.
(27) fuel pump plate (28) identification mark
12. Install the conical spring washers (29), collars
(30), washers (31), stopper cable (32), stopper
cable guide (33) and fuel pump mounting
bolts (34).
13. Install the fuel tank.
Make sure that the convex surface of the conical
spring washers are upside.
(29) conical spring washers
(30) collars
(31) washers
(32) stopper cable
(33) stopper cable guide
(34) fuel pump mounting bolts
14. Tighten the fuel pump mounting bolts to the
specified torque in the specified sequence as
shown.
8 lbf·ft (11 N·m, 1.1 kgf·m)
15. Connect the fuel line (page 42).
16. Increase the fuel pressure (page 48).
(22)
(19)
(19)
(20)
(20)
(23)
(21)
(25)
(24)(26)
(27)
(28)
(34)(30)(29)
(33)
(32)
(31) (34)(30)(29)
Fuel System
48 Servicing Your Honda
Fuel System
Fuel Pressure Increasing
Make sure the fuel remains enough (0.3 US gal
(1.0
r) minimum) in the fuel tank and add fuel if
necessary before increasing fuel pressure.
1. Connect the fuel pump connector (1).
(1) fuel pump connector
2. Disconnect the DLC/fuel pump sub harness
connector (2).
(1)
6. Position the fuel tank on the main frame.
7. Turn the “PUMP” selector switch (9) ON.
The selector switches can be used to change
power delivery as follows:
–“ECM” selector switch ON:
Power to ECM only.
–“PUMP” selector switch ON:
Power to fuel pump only.
– Both selector switches ON:
Power to ECM and fuel pump.
8. Run the fuel pump for about 3 – 5 seconds,
and fuel pressure will rise.
9. Turn the “PUMP” selector switch OFF.
Check that there is no leakage in the fuel line.
(3)
(8)
(7)
(4)
(5) (6)
BATTERY
(2)
(9) “PUMP” selector switch
10. Make sure that the battery harness selector
switches are OFF.
11. Disconnect the battery harness negative ( –)
cable from the battery first, then disconnect
the battery harness positive (+) cable.
12. Remove the battery harness and battery
harness adaptor.
13. Connect the DLC/fuel pump sub harness
connector.
14. Install the fuel tank (page 35).
(9)
BATTERY
(2) DLC/fuel pump sub harness connector
(2)
3. Before connecting the battery harness cables
to a 12V battery (3), make sure that the
battery harness selector switches (4) are OFF.
4. Connect the battery harness positive (+) cable
(5) first, then connect the battery harness
negative (–) cable (6) to the terminals of a
12V battery .
5. Connect the battery harness adaptor (7)
between the battery harness (8) and the
DLC/fuel pump sub harness connector as
shown.
• Battery harness
070MZ-MEN0100
• Battery harness adaptor 070MZ-KRN0100
(2) DLC/fuel pump sub harness connector
(3) battery
(4) battery harness selector switches
(5) positive (+) cable
(6) negative (–) cable
(7) battery harness adaptor
(8) battery harness
Engine Oil
Servicing Your Honda 49
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving on the circular API service
label.
Refer to
Safety Precautions on page 23.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the engine. Even the best oil wears
out. Changing oil helps get rid of dirt and
deposits. Operating the engine with old or dirty
oil can damage your engine. Running the engine
with insufficient oil can cause serious damage to
the engine.
Oil Recommendation
API
classification
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy conserving
on the circular API service
label
suggested oil
*
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
(USA & Canada), or Honda
4-stroke oil (Canada only), or
an equivalent motorcycle oil
*
viscosity
(weight)
SAE 10W-30
JASO T 903 standard MA
Other viscosities shown in the following chart
may be used when the average temperature in
your riding area is within the indicated range.
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
• Your CRF does not need oil additives.
Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine
oils displaying a circular API “energy
conserving” service label on the container. They
may affect lubrication.
JASO
T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the
oil container. For example, the following label
shows the MA classification.
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
(1)
(2)
Engine Oil
50 Servicing Your Honda
6. Check that the O-ring (4) is in good condition
and replace it if necessary.
7. Reinsert the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1).
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) engine oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer (new)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(3)(2)
Changing Engine Oil & Filter
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1)
from the left crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to
catch the oil. Then remove the engine oil
drain bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. With the engine stop button pushed, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately five times
to drain the engine oil completely.
6. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and seating surface, then
tighten it with a new sealing washer to the
specified torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 144).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
Checking & Adding Oil
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting of f the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
engine.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the engine oil fill cap/dipstick (1),
wipe it clean, and insert the engine oil fill
cap/dipstick without screwing it in. Remove
the oil fill cap/dipstick.
5. Check that the oil level is between the upper
(2) and lower (3) level marks on the engine oil
fill cap/dipstick.
• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark,
you do not have to add oil.
• If the oil is below or near the lower level
mark, add the recommended oil until it
reaches the upper level mark. (Do not
overfill)
Reinstall the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
Repeat steps 1–5.
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(2) upper level mark
(3) lower level mark
(1)
(4)
(1) engine oil fill cap/dipstick
(4) O-ring
8. Check for oil leaks.
Engine Oil
Servicing Your Honda 51
If the oil filter is not installed properly, it will
cause serious engine damage.
13. Apply engine oil to a new O-ring and install it
to the oil filter cover.
14. Install the oil filter cover being careful not to
damage the O-ring, then tighten the oil filter
cover bolts to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
15. Install the left engine guard and collar , then
tighten the left engine guard bolt to the
specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
16. Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil.
Capacity:
0.66 US qt (0.62R)
after draining and filter change
0.61 US qt (0.58R)
after draining
17. Install the engine oil fill cap/dipstick.
18. Check the engine oil level by following the
steps in
Checking & Adding Oil (page 50).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 144).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
NOTICE
(4) left engine guard bolt/washer
(5) collar
(6) left engine guard
(7) oil filter cover bolts
(8) oil filter cover
(9) oil filter
(10) O-ring
(11) spring
(12) rubber seal
(13) “OUT-SIDE” mark
(6)
(5)
(4)
(13)
(11)
(9)
(10)
(8)
(7)
(12)
10. Remove the oil filter (9) and O-ring (10) from
the oil filter cover.
7. It is recommended to replace the oil and filter
every 6 races or about every 15.0 hours.
However, if you replace only the oil before
the recommended interval, see page 25.
8. Remove the left engine guard bolt/washer (4),
collar (5) and left engine guard (6).
9. Remove the oil filter cover bolts (7) and oil
filter cover (8).
Using the wrong oil filter may result in leaks or
engine damage.
11. Apply grease to the filter side of the spring
end, then install the spring (11) into the new
oil filter.
12. Position the spring against the engine
crankcase and install a new oil filter with the
rubber seal (12) facing out, away from the
engine. You should see the “OUT-SIDE” mark
(13) on the filter body, near the seal.
Use a new Honda Genuine oil filter or a filter
of equal quality specified for your model.
NOTICE
Transmission Oil
52 Servicing Your Honda
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving on the circular API service
label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives. Use the
recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum
additives. They may adversely affect clutch
operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine
oils displaying a circular API “energy
conserving” service label on the container. They
may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
Other viscosities shown in the following chart
may be used when the average temperature in
your riding area is within the indicated range.
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking,
adding, and changing oil will help extend the
service life of the transmission and clutch. Even
the best oil wears out. Changing oil helps get rid
of dirt and deposits. Operating the engine with
old or dirty oil can damage your engine.
Running the engine with insufficient oil can
cause serious damage to the clutch and
transmission.
Oil Recommendation
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the
oil container. For example, the following label
shows the MA classification.
(1)
(2)
(1) oil code
(2) oil classification
API classification
(4-stroke engine oil
only)
viscosity
(weight)
JASO T903
standard
others
suggested oil*
SG or higher except oils
labeled as energy
conserving on the circular
API service label
SAE 10W-30
MA
without friction modifiers as
molybdenum additives
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
(USA & Canada), or Honda
4-stroke oil (Canada only),
or an equivalent motorcycle
oil
*
Transmission Oil
Servicing Your Honda 53
Checking & Adding Oil
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting of f the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
clutch and transmission.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1), oil
check bolt (2) and sealing washer (3) from the
right crankcase cover. A small amount of oil
should flow out of the oil check bolt hole.
Allow any excess oil to flow out of the oil
check bolt hole.
If no oil flows out of the oil check bolt hole,
add oil slowly through the transmission oil fill
hole until oil starts to flow out of the oil check
bolt hole.
Install the oil check bolt with the sealing
washer and transmission oil fill cap. Repeat
steps 1 – 4.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(2) (3)
(1) transmission oil fill cap
(2) transmission oil drain bolt
(3) sealing washer (new)
6. Fill the crankcase with recommended oil.
Capacity:
0.62 US qt (0.59R) after draining.
7. Install the transmission oil fill cap.
8. Check the transmission oil level by following
the steps in
Checking & Adding Oil (this
page).
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 144).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
(1) transmission oil fill cap (3) sealing washer (new)
(2) oil check bolt
5. After inspecting the oil level or adding oil,
tighten the oil check bolt with a new sealing
washer to the specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
(1) (4)
(1) transmission oil fill cap
(4) O-ring
Replacing Transmission Oil
1. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
3. Remove the transmission oil fill cap (1) from
the right crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to
catch the oil. Then remove the transmission
oil drain bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
the drain bolt threads and seating surface, then
tighten it with a new sealing washer to the
specified torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
6. Check that the O-ring (4) is in good condition
and replace it if necessary.
7. Reinstall the transmission oil fill cap (1).
8. Check for oil leaks.
Coolant
Your CRF’s liquid cooling system dissipates
engine heat through the coolant jacket that
surrounds the cylinder and cylinder head.
Maintaining the coolant will allow the cooling
system to work properly and prevent freezing,
overheating, and corrosion.
Coolant Recommendation
Use Pro Honda HP Coolant or an equivalent high
quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing
corrosion protection inhibitors specifically
recommended for use in aluminum engines.
Check the antifreeze container label.
Use only distilled water as a part of the coolant
solution. Water that is high in mineral content or
salt may be harmful to the aluminum engine.
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause
premature wear of the mechanical seal or
blockage of the radiator passages. Using tap
water may cause engine damage.
The factory provides a 50/50 solution of
antifreeze and water in this motorcycle. This
coolant solution is recommended for most
operating temperatures and provides good
corrosion protection.
Decreasing the concentration of antifreeze to less
than 40% will not provide proper corrosion
protection.
Increasing the concentration of antifreeze is not
recommended because it decreases cooling
system performance. Higher concentrations of
antifreeze (up to 60%) should only be used to
provide additional protection against freezing.
Check the cooling system frequently during
freezing weather.
Checking & Adding Coolant
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
1. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap
(1) and check coolant level. The coolant level
is correct when it is at the bottom of the
radiator filler neck (2).
(1) radiator cap
(2) radiator filler neck
2. Add coolant up to the filler neck if the level is
low.
Inspect the coolant level before each outing.
A coolant loss of 0.7 - 2.0 US oz (20 - 60
cm
3
) through the overflow tube is normal. If
coolant loss is more than this, inspect the
cooling system.
Capacity:
1.12 US qt (1.06R) after disassembly
1.10 US qt (1.04R) after draining
3. Install the radiator cap securely.
If the radiator cap is not installed properly, it
will cause excessive coolant loss and may result
in overheating and engine damage.
NOTICE
NOTICE
54 Servicing Your Honda
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
(1)
(2)
Coolant
Cooling System Inspection
1. Check the cooling system for leaks (see an
official Honda Service Manual for
troubleshooting of leaks).
2. Check the water hoses (1) for cracks,
deterioration, and radiator hose clamps for
looseness.
3. Check the radiator mount for looseness.
4. Make sure the overflow hose (2) is connected
and not clogged.
5. Check the radiator fins (3) for clogging.
6. Check the bleed hole (4) below the water
pump cover (5) for leakage. Clean away any
clogged dirt or sand, if necessary. Check for
signs of seal leakage. If water leaks through
the bleed hole, replace the mechanical seal. If
oil leaks through the bleed hole, replace the
oil seal. Make sure that there is no continuous
coolant leakage from the bleed hole while
operating the engine.
A small amount of coolant weeping from the
bleed hole is normal. See an official Honda
Service Manual or consult your dealer for
replacing the mechanical seal or oil seal.
Both seals should be replaced at the same
time.
Coolant Replacement
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Coolant should be replaced by your dealer, unless
you have the proper tools and service data and
are mechanically qualified. Refer to an of ficial
Honda Service Manual (page 160).
To properly dispose of drained coolant, refer to
You & the Environment, page 144.
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
Servicing Your Honda 55
WARNING
Removing the radiator cap while the
engine is hot can cause the coolant to
spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.
(2)
(3)
(1)
(3)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(1) water hoses (3) radiator fins
(2) overflow hose
(4) bleed hole
(5) water pump cover
Air Cleaner
56 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
The air cleaner uses polyurethane inner and outer
pieces which can’t be separated.
A dirty air cleaner will reduce engine power.
Proper air cleaner maintenance is very important
for off-road vehicles. A dirty, water-soaked,
worn-out, or defective air cleaner will allow dirt,
dust, mud, and other impurities to pass into the
engine.
Service the air cleaner more frequently if you
ride in unusually wet or dusty areas. Your dealer
can help you determine the correct service
interval for your riding conditions.
Your CRF’s air cleaner has very specific
performance requirements. Use a new Honda
Genuine air cleaner specified for your model or
an air cleaner of equal quality.
Using the wrong air cleaner may result in
premature engine wear.
NOTICE
Cleaning
1. Remove the seat (page 33).
2. Remove the air cleaner retaining bolt (1) and
air cleaner assembly (2).
Proper air cleaner maintenance can prevent
premature engine wear or damage, expensive
repairs, low engine power, poor gas mileage, and
spark plug fouling.
Improper or lack of proper air cleaner
maintenance can cause poor performance and
premature engine wear.
NOTICE
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(2) air cleaner assembly
(1)
(2)
Air Cleaner
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
Improper installation of the air cleaner assembly
may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine and
cause rapid wear of the piston rings and
cylinder.
12. Install the seat (page 33)
NOTICE
Servicing Your Honda 57
(2) air cleaner assembly
(8) air cleaner assembly tabs
(9) air cleaner housing stay
(9)
(8)
(2)
10. Carefully position the sealing flange of the
element to prevent dirt intrusion.
3. Remove the air cleaner element (3) from the air
cleaner holder (4) by releasing the holder tabs
(5) from the holes (6) of the air cleaner
element.
(3) air cleaner element (5) holder tabs
(4) air cleaner holder (6) holes
4. Wash the air cleaner in clean non-flammable
cleaning solvent. Then wash in hot, soapy
water, rinse well, and allow to dry thoroughly.
The air cleaner element is made in two pieces:
inner and outer, which cannot be separated.
5. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.
6. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly. After
drying, apply 1.7 US oz (50 cm
3
) of clean Pro
Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent air
cleaner oil from the inside of the element.
Place the element into a plastic bag (7) and
spread the oil evenly by hand.
(3)
(5)
(6)
(4)
(6)
(5)
11. Install and tighten the air cleaner retaining
bolt (1) securely.
(1)
(7) plastic bag
7. Assemble the air cleaner element and holder.
Install the holder tabs (5) in the holes (6) of
the air cleaner element.
8. Apply 0.1 – 0.2 oz (3 – 5 g) of Pro Honda
White Lithium Grease or equivalent to the air
cleaner housing contact area of the air cleaner
element.
9. Install the air cleaner assembly (2) into the air
cleaner housing by aligning its tabs (8) with
the stay (9) of the air cleaner housing.
(7)
Crankcase Breather
58 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Service more frequently if your CRF is ridden in
the rain or often at full throttle.
Service the breather if you can see deposits in the
transparent section of the drain tube.
Draining
1. Remove the crankcase breather tube plug (1)
from the crankcase breather tube (2) and drain
deposits into a suitable container.
2. Reinstall the crankcase breather tube plug.
(1)
(2)
(1) crankcase breather tube plug
(2) crankcase breather tube
Throttle
Servicing Your Honda 59
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Throttle Freeplay
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay:
1/8 – 3/16 in (3 – 5 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
(1)
(2)
(+)
(–)
(4)
(3)
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
5. Operate the throttle grip to ensure that it
functions smoothly and returns completely.
6. Install the fuel tank (page 35).
If you can’t get the freeplay within the specified
range, contact your dealer.
(2)
(+)
(–)
(1)
(2) dust cover (+) increase
(3) lock nut (–) decrease
(4) adjuster
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Return the dust cover to its normal position.
5. After adjustment, check for smooth rotation of
the throttle grip from fully closed to fully
open in all steering positions.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or
the correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn
the adjuster all the way in and back out one
turn.
Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Install the dust cover and make the adjustment
with the lower adjuster.
(1) freeplay
Upper Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
upper adjuster.
1. Pull the dust cover (2) back.
2. Loosen the lock nut (3).
3. Turn the adjuster (4).
Turning the adjuster in direction ( –) will
decrease freeplay and turning it in direction
(+) will increase freeplay.
Lower
Adjustment
The lower adjuster is used for major freeplay
adjustment, such as after replacing the throttle
cables or removing the throttle body. It is also
used if you cannot get the proper adjustment with
the upper adjuster.
1. Hang the fuel tank to the left side of the frame
(page 34).
2. Loosen the lock nut (1).
3. Turn the adjuster (2) in direction ( –) to
decrease freeplay, and in direction (+) to
increase freeplay.
Throttle
60 Servicing Your Honda
Throttle Inspection
1. Check that the throttle assembly is positioned
properly (the end of the throttle housing (1) is
aligned with the paint mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
3. Inspect the condition of the throttle cables
from the throttle grip down to the throttle
body. If the cable is kinked or chafed, have it
replaced.
4. Check the cables for tension or stress in all
steering positions.
5. Lubricate the cables with a commercially
available cable lubricant to prevent premature
rust and corrosion.
(3)
(1) throttle housing (2) paint mark
2. Check for smooth rotation of the throttle (3)
from fully open to fully closed in all steering
positions. If there is a problem, see your
dealer.
(1)
(2)
(3) throttle
Engine Idle Speed
Servicing Your Honda 61
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Remember, idle speed adjustment is not a “cure-
all” for other problems in your engine ’s PGM-FI
system. Adjusting the idle will not compensate
for a fault elsewhere.
The engine must be at normal operating
temperature for accurate idle speed adjustment.
When pushed in, the fast idle knob acts as the
idle adjust screw.
Turning it counterclockwise results in a
faster/higher idle speed.
Turning it clockwise results in a slower/lower
idle speed.
Idle Speed Adjustment
1. If the engine is cold, start it and warm it up 3
minutes. Then shut it off.
2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. Shift the transmission into neutral. Start the
engine.
4. Keep the motorcycle in an upright position.
5. Adjust idle speed with the fast idle knob (1).
Idle speed:
1,800 ± 100 rpm
(1)
(+)
(–)
(1) fast idle knob
(+) increase
(–) decrease
Clutch System
(1) freeplay
Improper freeplay adjustment can cause
premature clutch wear.
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
the clutch cable is disconnected.
62 Servicing Your Honda
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Clutch Lever Adjustment
The distance between the tip of the clutch lever
and the grip may be adjusted.
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
the clutch lever position adjustment or clutch
cable disconnected.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. To position the clutch lever farther away from
the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2)
counterclockwise. To position the brake lever
closer to the handgrip, turn the adjuster
clockwise.
3. Tighten the lock nut.
(1) lock nut (2) adjuster
(3) cable end adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay
5. Loosen the lock nut (4) and turn the integral
cable adjuster (5) to adjust the clutch lever
freeplay at the tip of lever.
Freeplay:
3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
Tighten the lock nut.
(2)
(1)
(3)
(+)
(–)
4. Turn the cable end adjuster (3) in direction (+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out five
turns.
(4)
(5)
(+)
(–)
(4) lock nut
(5) integral cable adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay
6. Adjust the cable end adjuster for minor
adjustment (page 63).
Clutch Lever Freeplay
Inspection
Check freeplay (1).
Freeplay:
3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
(1)
Clutch System
Servicing Your Honda 63
Other Inspections & Lubrication
• Check that the clutch lever assembly is
positioned properly (the end of the holder (1)
is aligned with the paint mark (2) on the
handlebar) and the securing bolts are tight.
Integral Cable
Adjustment
The integral cable adjuster is used if the cable
end adjuster is threaded out near its limit — or
the correct freeplay cannot be obtained.
1. Turn the cable end adjuster in direction (
+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out five
turns.
2. Loosen the lock nut (1).
3. Turn the integral cable adjuster (2) to obtain
the specified freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut. Check the freeplay.
(1) lock nut (+) increase freeplay
(2) integral cable adjuster (–) decrease freeplay
5. Start the engine, pull the clutch lever in, and
shift into gear. Make sure the engine does not
stall and the motorcycle does not creep.
Gradually release the clutch lever and open
the throttle. Your CRF should move smoothly
and accelerate gradually.
If you can’t get proper adjustment, or the clutch
does not work properly, the cable may be kinked
or worn, or the clutch discs may be worn.
Inspect the clutch discs and plates (page 65).
(1)
(2)
(+)
(–)
Cable End Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the
clutch cable end adjuster.
Turning the cable end adjuster (1) in direction (+)
will increase freeplay and turning it in direction
(–) will decrease freeplay.
(1)
(+)
(–)
(1) cable end adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the
correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the
adjuster all the way in and back out one turn and
make the adjustment with the integral cable
adjuster.
(1) holder (2) paint mark
• Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of
wear. If necessary, have it replaced.
• Lubricate the clutch cable with a
commercially available cable lubricant to
prevent premature wear and corrosion.
Clutch Operation
1. Check for smooth clutch lever operation. If
necessary, lubricate the clutch lever pivot bolt
sliding surface with grease and/or clutch cable
with commercially available cable lubricant.
2. Check the clutch cable for deterioration,
kinks, or damage.
(1)(2)
Clutch System
64 Servicing Your Honda
Clutch Disc/Plate Removal
1. Drain the transmission oil (page 53).
2. Remove the rear brake pedal (1) by removing
its pivot bolt (2), washer and dust seals (3).
(1) rear brake pedal (3) washer and dust seals
(2) brake pedal pivot bolt
3. Remove the five clutch cover bolts (4) and
clutch cover (5).
(4) clutch cover bolts (5) clutch cover
4. Remove the four clutch spring bolts and
springs (6).
Loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three progressive steps.
5. Remove the clutch pressure plate (7).
(6) clutch spring bolts and springs
(7) clutch pressure plate
6. Remove the washer (8), needle bearing (9),
clutch lifter (10) and clutch lifter rod (1 1).
(8) washer (10) clutch lifter
(9) needle bearing (11) clutch lifter rod
7. Assemble the clutch lifter, needle bearing and
washer. Turn the needle bearing with your
finger. The needle bearing should turn
smoothly and quietly. Replace the needle
bearing and washer if the needle bearing does
not turn smoothly.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(5)
(4)
(7)
(6)
(8) (9) (10) (11)
(12) clutch discs, clutch plates, judder spring and
spring seat
(12)
8. Remove the eight clutch discs, seven clutch
plates, judder spring and spring seat (12).
Clutch System
Servicing Your Honda 65
(1) spring seat
(2) judder spring
(3) clutch discs
(4) clutch plates
(5) clutch disc A
(6) clutch lifter rod (8) washer
(7) needle bearing (9) clutch lifter
6. Install the clutch pressure plate (10).
7. Install the four clutch springs and bolts (1 1).
8. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two
or three steps to the specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
(10) clutch pressure plate
(11) clutch springs and bolts
(cont’d)
(1)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(3)
(8) (7)(9) (6)
(10)
(11)
3. Insert the clutch lifter rod (6) into the
mainshaft.
4. Apply engine oil to the needle bearing (7) and
washer (8) and install them onto the clutch
lifter (9).
5. Install the clutch lifter onto the rod.
If you feel the clutch slippage when replacing the
clutch discs and plates, replace the clutch springs.
Clutch Disc/Plate Installation
1. Install the spring seat (1) and judder spring (2)
onto the clutch center as shown.
Coat the clutch discs (3) and clutch plates (4)
with engine oil.
2. Install the clutch disc A (larger I.D. disc) (5)
onto the clutch outer.
Stack the seven clutch plates and seven clutch
discs alternately.
Clutch Disc/Plate Inspection
Replace the clutch discs (1) if they show signs of
scoring or discoloration.
Measure the thickness of each clutch disc.
Service Limit:
0.112 in (2.85 mm)
Replace the clutch discs and clutch plates as a set.
(1)
(2)
(1) clutch disc
Check the clutch plates (2) for excessive warpage
or discoloration.
Check the plate warpage on a surface plate using
a feeler gauge.
Service Limit:
0.006 in (0.15 mm)
Replace the clutch discs and plates as a set.
(2) clutch plate
Clutch System
66 Servicing Your Honda
(12) O-ring (new) (13) clutch cover
11. Lubricate the dust seals (14) and rear brake
pedal pivot bolt (15) with urea based multi-
purpose grease or equivalent.
12. Apply locking agent to the brake pedal pivot
bolt threads.
13. Install the dust seals into the rear brake
pedal (16).
(14) dust seals (17) washer
(15) brake pedal pivot bolt (18) brake pedal return spring
(16) rear brake pedal
15. Fill the crankcase with transmission oil (page 53).
(14)
(15)
(18)
(14)
(17)
(16)
(13)
(12)
9. Apply oil to a new O-ring (12) and install it in
the groove of the clutch cover (13).
10. Install the cover by tightening the five cover
bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or three
steps to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
14. Install the pivot bolt with the washer (17) and
tighten the pivot bolt to the specified torque:
27 lbf·ft (36 N·m, 3.7 kgf·m)
Connect the brake pedal return spring (18) if
it is removed.
(3)
(4)
Servicing Your Honda 67
Spark Plug
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Spark Plug Recommendation
The recommended standard spark plug is
satisfactory for most racing conditions.
Use only the recommended type of spark plugs in
the recommended heat range.
Using a spark plug with an improper heat range
or incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Using a non-resistor spark plug may cause
ignition problems.
This motorcycle uses spark plug that have an
iridium tip in the center electrode and a platinum
tip in the side electrode.
Be sure to observe the following when servicing
the spark plug.
• Do not clean the spark plug. If an electrode is
contaminated with accumulated objects or
dirt, replace the spark plug with a new one.
• To check the spark plug gap, use only a
“wire-type feeler gauge.” To prevent
damaging the iridium tip of the center
electrode and platinum tip of the side
electrode, never use a “leaf-type feeler gauge.’’
• Do not adjust the spark plug gap. If the gap is
out of specification, replace the spark plug
with a new one.
NOTICE
Spark Plug Inspection & Replacement
1. Remove the seat and hang the fuel tank to the
left of the frame (pages 33, 34).
2. Disconnect the spark plug cap (1).
3. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug base.
4. Remove the spark plug (2).
(1) spark plug cap (2) spark plug
5. Check the electrodes for wear or deposits, the
sealing gasket (3) for damage, and the
insulator for cracks. Replace if you detect
them.
6. Check the spark plug gap (4), using a wire-
type feeler gauge. If the gap is out of
specifications, replace the plug with a new
one.
The recommended spark plug gap is:
0.031 – 0.035 in (0.8 – 0.9 mm)
(3) sealing gasket
(4) spark plug gap
(1)
(2)
7. To obtain accurate spark plug readings,
accelerate up to speed on a straightaway.
Press and hold the engine stop button and
disengage the clutch by pulling the lever in.
Coast to a stop, then remove and inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator around the center
electrode should appear tan or medium gray.
If you’re using a new plug, ride for at least 10
minutes before taking a plug reading; a brand-new
plug will not color initially.
If the electrodes appear burnt, or the insulator is
white or light gray (lean) or the electrodes and
insulator are black or fouled (rich), there is a
problem elsewhere (page 134).
Check the PGM-FI system and ignition timing.
8. With the sealing gasket attached, thread the
spark plug in by hand to prevent cross-
threading.
9. Tighten the spark plug.
• If the old plug is good:
1/12 turn after it seats.
• If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to
prevent loosening:
a) First, tighten the plug:
NGK: 1/4 turn after it seats.
b) Then loosen the plug.
c) Next, tighten the plug again:
1/12 turn after it seats.
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may be
damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may
be damaged.
NOTICE
10. Connect the spark plug cap. Take care to
avoid pinching any cables or wires.
11. Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 33, 35).
Standard SILMAR9A – 9S (NGK)
SILMAR10A – 9S (NGK)
Optional
68 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
Before inspection, clean the engine thoroughly to
keep dirt from entering the engine.
1. Remove the seat and hang the fuel tank to the
left of the frame (pages 33, 34).
2. Disconnect the breather tube (1) and spark
plug cap (2).
Positioning At TDC On The Compression
Stroke
1. Remove the crankshaft hole cap (1).
(1) breather tube (2) spark plug cap
3. Remove the cylinder head cover socket
bolts (3), rubber seals (4) and cylinder head
cover (5).
(3) cylinder head cover socket bolts
(4) cylinder head cover rubber seals
(5) cylinder head cover
(1) crankshaft hole cap
2. Remove the spark plug (page 67).
3. Remove the cylinder head cover (page 68).
(2)
(1)
(5)
(4)
(3)
(1)
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Excessive valve clearance will cause noise and
eventual engine damage. Little or no clearance
will prevent the valve from closing and cause
valve damage and power loss. Check valve
clearance when the engine is cold at the intervals
specified in the Maintenance Schedule (page 25).
The checking or adjusting of the valve clearance
should be performed while the engine is cold.
The valve clearance will change as engine
temperature rises.
Valve Clearance
Valve Clearance Inspection
1. Set the piston at TDC on the compression
stroke (page 68).
2. Measure the intake valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the valve
lifters and cam lobes (2).
(5)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(1) feeler gauge
(2) valve lifters and cam lobes
4. Rotate the crankshaft by turning the primary
drive gear bolt (2) clockwise until the punch
mark (3) on the primary drive gear aligns with
the index mark (4) on the right crankcase cover .
In this position, the piston may either be on the
compression or exhaust stroke.
If the crankshaft passed the punch mark,
rotate the primary drive gear bolt clockwise
again and align the punch mark with the index
mark.
The inspection must be made when the piston
is at the top of the compression stroke when
both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.
This condition can be determined by moving
the exhaust rocker arms (5). If they are free,
an indication that the valves are closed and
that the piston is on the compression stroke. If
they are tight and the valves are open, rotate
the primary drive gear bolt 360 ° and realign
the punch mark with the index mark.
(2)
(3) (4)
(2) primary drive gear bolt (4) index mark
(3) punch mark
(5) exhaust rocker arms
Servicing Your Honda 69
(cont’d)
Valve Clearance
Camshaft Removal
1. Record the intake valve and exhaust valve
clearances (page 69).
Make sure the piston is at TDC on the
compression stroke (page 68).
2. Remove the cam chain tensioner lifter cover
bolt (1) and sealing washer (2).
(1) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(2) sealing washer
3. Insert the tensioner stopper (3) into the cam
chain tensioner lifter (4).
Turn the tensioner stopper clockwise and lock
the cam chain tensioner lifter by pushing the
handle (5) to the cam chain tensioner lifter .
• Tensioner stopper 070MG-0010100
(3) tensioner stopper
(4) cam chain tensioner lifter
(5) handle
(1)
(2)
(3)
(5)
(4)
3. Measure the exhaust valve clearance by
inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the
exhaust rocker arms (3) and shims (4).
(1) feeler gauge
(3) exhaust rocker arms
(4) exhaust valve shims
Valve Clearance:
IN: 0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
If intake valve clearance and exhaust valve
clearance need adjustment, see
Camshaft
Removal
(this page) and select the correct shim
for each valve.
(1)
(3)
(4)
70 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
4. Make sure the piston is at TDC on the
compression stroke (page 68).
Loosen the camshaft holder bolts (6) in a
crisscross pattern in two or three steps.
Remove the camshaft holder bolts, set
rings (7) and camshaft holder (8).
As you remove the camshaft holder, set rings
may be sticking in the camshaft holder.
(6) camshaft holder bolts
(7) set rings
(8) camshaft holder
Do not let the set rings fall into the crankcase.
If the set rings are remained on the camshaft
holder, remove the set rings carefully.
NOTICE
(9) left camshaft bearing
(10) camshaft
(11) cam chain
6. Remove the intake valve lifters (12).
Keep the intake valve lifters and shims separate
so you can easily identify the originally installed
location such as intake or exhaust, right or left.
(7)
(6)
(8)
(9)
(11)
(10)
(12)
5. Slide the left camshaft bearing (9) and remove
the camshaft (10) and cam chain (11).
(13) valve shims
(13)
(13)
7. Remove the valve shims (13).
Servicing Your Honda 71
(12) intake valve lifters
Valve Clearance
Shim Selection
1. Clean the valve shim contact area in the valve
lifter (1) with compressed air.
2. Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer
and record it.
Seventy-three different shims (2) are available
in 0.025 mm thickness intervals, from
1.200 mm (the thinnest) to 3.000 mm (the
thickest).
3. Calculate the new shim thickness using the
equation below.
A = (B – C) + D
A: New shim thickness
B: Recorded valve clearance
C: Specified valve clearance
D: Old shim thickness
• Make sure of the correct shim thickness by
measuring the shim with a micrometer.
• Reface the intake valve seat if carbon deposits
result in a calculated dimension of over 2.450
mm.
Reface the exhaust valve seat if carbon
deposits result in a calculated dimension of
over 3.000 mm.
(1)
(2)
(2) shim
(1) valve lifter
72 Servicing Your Honda
Valve Clearance
Servicing Your Honda 73
Camshaft Installation
1. Install the newly selected shims (1) on the
valve spring retainers (2).
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(1) shims
(2) valve spring retainers
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the following parts.
– camshaft cam lobes
– each valve lifter outer surface
– plunger whole surface
(1)
(2)
(2)
(1)
(4) cylinder head (10) cam sprocket
(7) camshaft (11) left camshaft bearing
(9) cam chain
(7)
(8)
(7) camshaft (8) intake cam lobes
7. Install the cam chain (9) over the cam
sprocket (10).
While holding the left camshaft bearing (11)
to the left fully, install the camshaft (7) onto
the cylinder head (4).
(7)
(9)
(4)
(10)
(11)
5. Make sure the piston is at TDC on the
compression stroke (page 68).
6. Install the camshaft (7) onto the cylinder head
with intake cam lobes (8) facing up as
illustrated below.
(cont’d)
(5) plunger
(6) decompressor weight
If the operation is not smooth, refer to an of ficial
Honda Service Manual (page 160) for
decompressor disassembly or see your dealer
.
(4)
(3)
(3) valve lifters
(4) cylinder head
4. Check the operation of the plunger (5) by
turning the decompressor weight (6) with your
finger; The plunger should be retracted and
protruded smoothly.
(6)
(5)
3. Install each valve lifter (3) in their original
location into the cylinder head (4).
Valve Clearance
74 Servicing Your Honda
(14) dowel pins (15) camshaft holder
10. Install the set rings (16) on the camshaft
bearing grooves (17).
Do not let the set rings fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(13)
Align
(12)
(12) timing mark
(13) camshaft holder mating surface
9. Make sure that the dowel pins (14) are
installed into the camshaft holder (15).
(14)
(15)
8. Make sure that the timing mark (12) on the
cam sprocket aligns with the camshaft holder
mating surface (13) of the cylinder head.
(17)
(16)
(19)
(18)
(21)
(20)
(18) camshaft holder (20) camshaft holder bolts (long)
(19) “∆” mark (21) camshaft holder bolts (short)
(16) set rings (17) camshaft bearing grooves
11. Apply engine oil to the camshaft holder bolt
threads.
Install the camshaft holder (18) with the “∆”
mark (19) facing forward.
Tighten the camshaft holder bolts (20) (21) to
the specified torque:
10 lbf·ft (14 N·m, 1.4 kgf·m)
Tighten the camshaft holder bolts in a criss-cross
pattern in two or three steps.
12. Remove the tensioner stopper (22) from the
cam chain tensioner lifter.
(22)
(22) tensioner stopper
13. Make sure that the piston is at TDC on the
compression stroke (page 68).
Check that the timing mark (12) on the cam
sprocket aligns with the camshaft holder
mating surface (13) of the cylinder head.
If the timing mark doesn’t align with the
camshaft holder mating surface, remove the
cam chain and realign the timing mark.
(13)
Align
(12)
(12) timing mark
(13) camshaft holder mating surface
Valve Clearance
Servicing Your Honda 75
14. Measure the intake valve and exhaust valve
clearances by inserting a feeler gauge (23).
Valve Clearance:
IN: 0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
(23) feeler gauge
15. Install a new sealing washer (24) and tighten
the cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt (25).
(23)
(23)
(24) sealing washer (new)
(25) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt
(25)
(24)
Crankshaft Hole Cap Installation
1. Install the spark plug (page 67).
2. Coat a new O-ring (1) with engine oil and
install it onto the crankshaft hole cap (2).
Apply grease to the crankshaft hole cap
threads. Install and tighten the crankshaft hole
cap to the specified torque:
11 lbf·ft (15 N·m, 1.5 kgf·m)
(1) O-ring (new)
(2) crankshaft hole cap
(2)
(1)
Cylinder Head Cover Installation
1. Check that the spark plug hole packing (1) is
in good condition and replace it if necessary.
Apply engine oil to the spark plug hole
packing and install it to the cylinder head
cover (2).
2. Check that the cylinder head cover
packing (3) is in good condition and replace it
if necessary.
Install the cylinder head cover packing into
the cylinder head cover groove.
(1) spark plug hole packing
(2) cylinder head cover
(3) cylinder head cover packing
(2)
(3)
(1)
(cont’d)
Valve Clearance
76 Servicing Your Honda
(6) cylinder head cover socket bolts
(6)
3. Check that the rubber seals (4) are in good
condition, replace them if necessary.
Install the rubber seals onto the cylinder head
cover with the “UP” marks (5) facing up.
(4) rubber seal
(5) “UP” marks
4. Install and tighten the cylinder head cover
socket bolts (6) to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
(4)
(5)
(5)
(7) spark plug cap
(8) breather tube
6. Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 33, 35).
(7)
(8)
5. Connect the spark plug cap (7) and breather
tube (8).
Servicing Your Honda 77
(1) ignition coil connectors (3) bolt and washer
(2) clamp
11. Remove the bolt (4), ground wire (5) and
ignition coil/stay (6).
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
Cylinder Head Removal
1. Clean the area above the engine before
disassembly to prevent dirt falling into the
engine.
2. Drain the radiator coolant after cooling the
motorcycle (page 143).
3. Remove the seat and hang the fuel tank
(pages 33, 34).
4. Remove the muffler (page 101) and subframe
(page 36).
5. Remove the exhaust pipe (page 103).
6. Remove the spark plug (page 67).
7. Remove the cylinder head cover (page 68).
8. Set the piston at TDC on the compression
stroke (page 68).
9. Remove the camshaft holder, camshaft, valve
lifters and shims (page 70).
10. Disconnect the ignition coil connectors (1)
and unclamp them from the clamp (2) .
Remove the bolt and washer (3).
(7) ECT sensor connector
13. Loosen the radiator hose clamp screw (8) and
disconnect the radiator hose (9).
(8) radiator hose clamp screw
(9) radiator hose
(3)
(2)
(1)
(9)
(8)
(cont’d)
(4) bolt (6) ignition coil/stay
(5) ground wire
(5)
(4)
(6)
12. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector (7).
(7)
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
78 Servicing Your Honda
(10) rear shock absorber upper nut
(11) bolt
15. Loosen the insulator band screw (12) and
pull the throttle body (13) out from the
insulator (14).
Do not hang the throttle body and support it with a
suitable strap.
(12) insulator band screw
(13) throttle body
(14) insulator
(13)
(14)
(12)
14. Remove the rear shock absorber upper nut
(10) and bolt (11).
(10)
(11)
16. Remove the cylinder head hanger bolts (15).
Remove the cylinder head hanger plate
bolts (16), left cylinder head hanger plate (17)
and right cylinder head hanger plate (18).
(15) cylinder head hanger bolts
(16) cylinder head hanger plate bolts
(17) left cylinder head hanger plate
(18) right cylinder head hanger plate
17. Remove the cylinder bolt (19).
18. Remove the cylinder head bolts, washers (20)
and the cylinder head (21).
Loosen the bolts in a criss-cross pattern in two or
three steps.
Do not let the washers and cam chain fall into the
crankcase.
NOTICE
(19) cylinder bolt
(20) cylinder head bolts and washers
(21) cylinder head
(18)
(15)
(16)
(21)
(19)
(20)
(17)
(15)
(16)
Servicing Your Honda 79
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
19. Remove the dowel pins (22) and cylinder
head gasket (23).
Do not let the dowel pins and cam chain fall into
the crankcase.
NOTICE
(22) dowel pins
(23) cylinder head gasket
20. Remove the cam chain guide (24) from the
cylinder (25).
(23)
(22)
(24) cam chain guide
(25) cylinder
(25)
(24)
Cylinder Removal
1. Remove the water hose joint bolts (1), water
hose joint (2) and O-ring (3).
(1) water hose joint bolts (3) O-ring
(2) water hose joint
2. Remove the cylinder (4) while holding the
piston (5).
Do not let the cam chain fall into the crankcase.
Do not pry on or strike the cylinder.
NOTICE
(6) dowel pins (7) cylinder gasket
(2)
(3)
(1)
(7)
(6)
3. Remove the dowel pins (6) and cylinder
gasket (7).
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(4) cylinder (5) piston
(4)
(5)
80 Servicing Your Honda
Piston Removal
1. Place clean shop towels in the crankcase to
keep the piston pin clips, or other parts, from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Remove the piston pin clips (1) using a pair of
needle-nose pliers.
3. Press the piston pin (2) out of the piston (3),
and remove the piston.
Under racing conditions, the piston and rings
should be replaced every 6 races or about every
15.0 hours of running. Replace the piston pin every
12 races or about every 30.0 hours of running.
Piston Ring Removal
Spread each piston ring (1) and remove by lifting
it up at a point just opposite the gap.
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
NOTICE
(2)
(3)
(1)
(1) piston pin clips (3) piston
(2) piston pin
(1)
(1) piston ring
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
Piston/Piston Pin/Piston Ring Inspection
We recommend you consult an of ficial Honda
Service Manual or your dealer for correct Service
Limit measurements.
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
Piston Ring Installation
1. Remove the carbon deposits from the piston
head and piston ring grooves with the
removed piston ring (1).
(5)
(3)
(3)
(5)
(4)
(3)
(3)
(2)
(2)
(6)
(1) removed piston ring
2. Apply engine oil to each piston ring whole
surface.
3. Install the spacer (2) first, then install the side
rails (3) to the piston (4).
4. Install the top ring (5) to the piston with “R”
mark (6) side facing up.
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far.
Do not damage the piston during piston ring
installation.
NOTICE
(1)
5. After installing the piston rings they should
rotate freely, without sticking.
Space the ring end gaps 180 degrees apart
between top ring and upper side rail.
Space the ring end gaps 90 degrees apart
between upper side rail, spacer and lower side
rail.
Servicing Your Honda 81
Piston Installation
1. Place clean shop towels (1) over the crankcase
opening to keep the piston pin clips from
falling into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the connecting rod small
end (2) inner surface.
(1) shop towels
(2) connecting rod small end
(2)
(1)
(cont’d)
(2) spacer (5) top ring
(3) side rails (6) “R” mark
(4) piston
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
(6) piston pin (8) piston cutout
(7) piston pin clips
Cylinder Installation
1. Clean off any gasket material from the gasket
surface of the crankcase, being careful not to
let any material fall into the crankcase.
Be careful not to remove any metal from the
gasket surface.
2. Remove the shop towels. Do not let any
gasket debris fall into the crankcase.
3. Install a new cylinder gasket (1) and dowel
pins (2).
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
(1) cylinder gasket (2) dowel pins
(3)
(4)
(5)
(8)
(6)
(7)
(6)
(7)
(1)
(2)
82 Servicing Your Honda
3. Install the piston (3) with the “IN” mark (4)
and/or the large valve recesses (5) facing the
intake side of the engine.
(3) piston (5) large valve recesses
(4) “IN” mark
4. Apply engine oil to the piston pin (6) outer
surface.
Apply engine oil to the piston outer surface
and piston pin hole inner surface.
Install the piston pin and new piston pin
clips (7).
Use new pin clips. Never reuse old clips.
Do not let the clips fall into the crankcase.
Do not align the piston pin clip end gap with the
piston cutout (8).
NOTICE
(cont’d)
(1)
(2)
(3)
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
4. Clean any gasket material off cylinder (3).
5. Apply engine oil to the cylinder wall, piston
outer surface and piston rings (4).
Route the cam chain (5) through the cylinder .
Install the cylinder over the piston rings by
hand while compressing the piston rings.
Do not damage the piston rings and cylinder
walls.
NOTICE
(3) cylinder (5) cam chain
(4) piston rings
(1) cam chain guide (3) cylinder cutouts
(2) cam chain guide tabs
2. Install the dowel pins (4) and a new cylinder
head gasket (5).
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
NOTICE
Cylinder Head Installation
1. Install the cam chain guide (1) and fit the cam
chain guide tabs (2) in the cylinder cutouts (3).
Push the guide until it bottoms in the
crankcase guide groove.
(4) dowel pins
(5) cylinder head gasket
(3)
(5)
(4)
(5)
(4)
Servicing Your Honda 83
(6) (7)
(8)
6. Install a new O-ring (6) to the water hose
joint (7).
Install the water hose joint and bolts (8), and
tighten them to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
(6) O-ring (new) (8) bolts
(7) water hose joint
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
3. Route the cam chain through the cylinder
head and install the cylinder head (6).
Do not damage mating surfaces when installing
the cylinder head.
4. Apply engine oil to all cylinder head bolt
threads and seating surface.
Install the washers and cylinder head bolts (7)
and tighten them to the specified torque in a
crisscross pattern in two or three steps:
38 lbf·ft (51 N·m, 5.2 kgf·m)
Do not let the washers fall into the crankcase.
5. Install the cylinder bolt (8) and tighten it to
the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
NOTICE
NOTICE
(6) cylinder head
(7) washers and cylinder head bolts
(8) cylinder bolt
(9) left cylinder head hanger plate
(10) right cylinder head hanger plate
(11) cylinder head hanger plate bolts
(12) cylinder head hanger bolts
(6)
(8)
(7)
(9)
(12)
(11)
6. Install the left cylinder head hanger plate (9)
and right cylinder head hanger plate (10), then
loosely install the cylinder head hanger plate
bolts (11) and cylinder head hanger bolts (12).
Tighten the cylinder head hanger bolts and
cylinder head hanger plate bolts to the
specified torque:
cylinder head hanger bolts:
40 lbf·ft (54 N·m, 5.5 kgf·m)
cylinder head hanger plate bolts:
24 lbf·ft (33 N·m, 3.4 kgf·m)
(10)
(12)
(11)
84 Servicing Your Honda
7. Install the throttle body (13) to the insulator
(14) by aligning the tab of the throttle body
with the groove of the insulator and tighten
the insulator band screw (15) so the distance
between the band ends is 0.43 ± 0.04 in
(11.0 ± 1.0 mm).
(13)
(14)
(15)
Align
0.43 ± 0.04 in
(11.0 ± 1.0 mm)
(13) throttle body (15) insulator band screw
(14) insulator
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
(19) radiator hose
(20) water hose joint
10. Tighten the radiator hose clamp screw (21) as
illustrated below.
(21) radiator hose clamp screw
(21)
0 – 0.04 in
(0 – 1.0 mm)
Servicing Your Honda 85
8. Set the rear shock absorber (16) and install the
rear shock absorber upper bolt (17) and nut
(18) as shown.
Tighten the rear shock absorber upper nut to
the specified torque:
32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
(16) (17)
Align
(18)
(16) rear shock absorber (18) nut
(17) rear shock absorber upper bolt
9. Connect the radiator hose (19) to the water
hose joint (20) of the cylinder head.
(19)
(20)
(cont’d)
11. Connect the ECT sensor connector (22).
(22) ECT sensor connector
12. Install the ignition coil/stay (23), ground wire
(24) and bolt (25).
Push the ground wire against the ignition
coil/stay.
Push the ignition coil/stay against the frame.
(22)
(25)
(24)
(23)
Push
(23) ignition coil/stay
(24) ground wire
(25) bolt
22. Fill and bleed the cooling system (page 143).
Check for the following:
– compression leaks
– abnormal engine noise
– secondary air leaks
– coolant leaks
– oil leaks
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin
86 Servicing Your Honda
13. Install the ignition coil/stay (23), washer (26)
and bolt (27).
Set the clamp facing rearward and tighten the
bolts (25) (27).
14. Clamp the ignition coil connector wires to the
clamp (28) and connect the ignition coil
connectors (29).
(27)
(26)
(23)
(28)
(29)
(23) ignition coil/stay
(26) washer
(27) bolt
(28) clamp
(29) ignition coil connectors
15. Install the shims, valve lifters, camshaft and
camshaft holder (page 73).
16. Install the crankshaft hole cap (page 75).
17. Install the cylinder head cover (page 75).
18. Install the spark plug (page 67).
19. Install the exhaust pipe (page 103).
20. Install the subframe (page 37) and muf fler
(page 102).
21. Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 33, 35).
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Loose, worn, or damaged suspension components
may adversely affect the handling and stability of
your CRF. If any suspension components appear
worn or damaged, see your dealer for further
inspection. Your dealer is qualified to determine
whether or not replacement parts or repairs are
needed.
Front Suspension Inspection
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour to ensure that the
suspension has worked in (page 19).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the
front suspension at the standard setting before
attempting any adjustments.
• For optimum fork performance, we
recommend that you disassemble and clean
the fork after riding your CRF for 3 hours.
See page 114 for fork disassembly.
• Replace the fork oil every 3 races or 7.5 hours
of running. See page 89 for oil capacity
adjustment after changing the fork oil.
• Replace the damper oil every 9 races or 22.5
hours of running. See page 117 for damper
fork oil replacement.
• Use KHL15-11 (KYB) which contains special
additives to assure maximum performance of
your CRF's front suspension.
• Periodically check and clean all front
suspension parts to assure top performance.
Check the dust seals for dust, dirt, and foreign
materials. Check the oil for any
contamination.
Suspension
• Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
(page 131). Make all rebound and
compression damping adjustments in one-
click increments. (Adjusting two or more
clicks at a time may cause you to pass over
the best adjustment.) Test ride after each
adjustment.
• If you become confused about adjustment
settings, return to the standard position and
start over.
• If the fork is still too stif f/soft after adjusting
compression damping, determine which
portion of the travel is still too stif f/soft. This
is an important step that will help you solve
suspension problems.
1. Make sure that the fork protectors (1) and dust
seals (2) are clean and not packed with mud
and dirt.
2. Check for signs of oil leakage. Damaged or
leaking fork seals should be replaced before
your CRF is ridden.
(1) fork protector (2) dust seal
3. Inspect the wear rings (3) for wear or damage.
Replace the wear ring if it is 0.06 in (1.5 mm)
or flat with the outer tube (4). Remove the
fork leg when replacing the wear ring.
Install the wear ring with its end gap (5)
facing rearward.
(3) wear ring (4) outer tube
(3) wear rings (5) end gaps
4. Make a quick check of fork operation by
locking the front brake and pushing down on
the handlebar several times.
(1)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(3)
0.06 in (1.5 mm)
(5)
(3)
Servicing Your Honda 87
Suspension
Rear Suspension Inspection
The swingarm is controlled by one hydraulic
shock absorber with an aluminum reservoir for
oil and nitrogen gas pressure. The gas pressure
in the reservoir is contained within a rubber
bladder.
The rear suspension’s spring pre-load and
damping adjustments (compression and rebound)
should be adjusted for the rider ’s weight and
track conditions (pages 128, 133).
Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or
dis
pose of the damper; see your dealer. The
instructions found in this owner ’s manual are
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only.
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour with the standard
suspension settings before attempting to
adjust the rear suspension.
• Refer to
Suspension Adjustment Information
(page 133) for making all rebound and
compression damping adjustments in one
click or 1/12 turn increments (Adjusting two
or more clicks or turns at a time may cause
you to pass over the best adjustment.) Test
ride after each adjustment.
• If the rear suspension is too stif f/soft, adjust it
by turning all the compression and rebound
adjusters according to the procedures
described in page 127. After adjusting the
adjusters simultaneously, suspension may be
fine-tuned by turning one of the compression
and rebound damping adjusters in one click or
in 1/12 turn increments.
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable
adjustment, return to the standard position and
begin again.
1. Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down
and check for smooth suspension action.
2. Remove the muffler (page 101) and subframe
(page 36).
3. Check for a broken or collapsed spring.
4. Check the rear shock absorber (1) for a bent
rod or oil leaks.
(1) rear shock absorber
5. Push the rear wheel sideways to check for
worn or loose swingarm bearings. There
should be no movement. If there is, have the
bearings replaced by your dealer.
(1)
88 Servicing Your Honda
Suspension
(1) outer tube (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork damper (4) slider
The outer tube (1) can drop on the slider (5) and
damage the fork dust seal (6). To avoid damage,
hold both the outer tube and slider when
removing the fork damper.
NOTICE
(1) outer tube (6) fork dust seal
(5) slider
3. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube (1).
Drain the fork oil from the oil holes (7) of the
fork damper.
(1) outer tube (7) oil holes
4. Drain the fork oil by turning the outer tube (1)
upside down. (About 0.5 US oz (15.8 cm
3
) of
fork oil will be left in the outer tube when it is
left inverted for about 20 minutes at
68°F/20°C.)
(1) outer tube
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 144).
Improper disposal of drained oil is harmful to the
environment.
NOTICE
Amount of fork oil left in the fork
(within damper and spring) unit: cm
3
minute
°F/°C
32/0
50/10
68/20
86/30
5
24.6
22.7
21.5
20.5
10
22.0
19.8
18.1
16.8
20
19.4
17.6
15.8
14.9
35
17.7
16.0
14.0
13.1
55
16.5
14.8
13.1
11.8
85
15.5
13.9
12.0
11.0
145
14.0
12.4
10.8
9.7
(2) (3)
(1)
(4)
(1)
(5)
(6)
(1)
NO GOOD
(1)
(7)
(1)
32°F/0°C
50°F/10°C
68°F/20°C
86°F/30°C
Recommended Fork Oil
Fork Oil Change
Refer to Front Suspension Disassembly on page
114 for front suspension removal.
1. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding
surface of the slider and dust seal.
2. Hold the outer tube (1), then remove the fork
damper (2) from the outer tube using the lock
nut wrench (3). Gently slide the outer tube
down onto the lower end of the slider (4).
• Lock nut wrench 070MA-MEN0100
suggested oil
KHL15-11 (KYB)
(cont’d)
Servicing Your Honda 89
Suspension
90 Servicing Your Honda
5. Pour the recommended fork oil (page 89) into
the outer tube.
Optional Soft 25.12 lbf/in (4.4 N/mm) Fork Spring
Standard oil
capacity
11.9 US oz
(352 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.1 US oz
(359 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.2 US oz
(303 cm
3
)
2 scribe marks
Standard oil
capacity
12.0 US oz
(355 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.2 US oz
(362 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.3 US oz
(305 cm
3
)
4 scribe marks
Optional Medium 26.27 lbf/in (4.6 N/mm) Fork Spring
6. Check that the O-ring (8) on the fork damper
(2) is in good condition. Apply the
recommended fork oil to the O-ring.
Temporarily install the fork damper to the
outer tube (1).
After installing the fork leg (page 114),
tighten the fork damper to the specified torque
using the lock nut wrench:
Actual:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
Torque wrench scale reading:
20 lbf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m), using a 20 in
(50 cm) long deflecting beam type torque
wrench.
When using the lock nut wrench, use a 20 in (50
cm) long deflecting beam type torque wrench
with a lock nut wrench. The lock nut wrench
increases the torque wrench’s leverage, so the
torque wrench reading will be less than the
torque actually applied to the fork damper.
(1) outer tube
(2) fork damper
(8) O-ring
(8)
(2)
(1)
Fork Oil Capacity:
Standard (Stiff) 27.41 lbf/in (4.8 N/mm) Fork Spring
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(350 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.1 US oz
(357 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.1 US oz
(300 cm
3
)
6 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
No mark
(factory products)
or
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
legs.
Servicing Your Honda 91
Brakes
(1) lock nut (3) knocker arm
(2) adjuster
1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
2. To position the front brake lever farther away
from the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2)
clockwise.
To position the front brake lever closer to the
handgrip, turn the adjuster counterclockwise.
3. While holding the adjuster, tighten the lock
nut to the specified torque:
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
4. Apply silicone grease to the contacting areas
of the adjuster and knocker arm (3).
Rear Brake Pedal Height
The rear brake pedal height should be
approximately level with the right footpeg.
1. Loosen the lock nut (1) and turn the push rod
(2) in direction (+) to raise the rear brake
pedal (3) or in direction ( –) to lower it.
2. Tighten the push rod lock nut to the specified
torque at the desired pedal height.
4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
(1) lock nut (+) raise the pedal height
(2) push rod (–) lower the pedal height
(3) rear brake pedal
(3)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(2)
(–)
(+)
(1)
Front Brake Lever Adjustment
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Both the front and rear brakes are the hydraulic
disc type. As the brake pads wear, the brake
fluid level will drop. A leak in the system will
also cause the level to drop.
Frequently inspect the system to ensure there are
no fluid leaks. Periodically inspect the brake
fluid level and the brake pads for wear .
If the braking response of the front brake lever or
rear pedal feels unusual, check the brake pads. If
the brake pads are not worn beyond the
recommended limit (page 94), there is probably
air in the brake system.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual or see
your dealer to have the air bled from the system.
92 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Fluid Level Inspection
Front Brake Fluid Level Check
(1) LWR mark
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LWR mark (1). If the level
is at or below the LWR mark, check the brake
pads for wear (page 94).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected
for leaks.
If the pulling distance for the front brake lever
feels excessive, there is probably air in the brake
system and it must be bled. Refer to an of ficial
Honda Service Manual or see your dealer for
brake bleeding.
Honda recommends using Pro Honda DOT 4
Brake Fluid from a sealed container, or an
equivalent.
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
Rear Brake Fluid Level Check
(1) LOWER mark
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check
the fluid level.
It should be above the LOWER mark (1). If the
level is at or below the LOWER mark, check the
brake pads for wear (page 94).
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
are not worn, have your brake system inspected
for leaks.
If the travel for the rear brake pedal feels
excessive, there is probably air in the brake
system and it must be bled. Refer to an of ficial
Honda Service Manual or see your dealer for
brake bleeding.
Honda recommends using Pro Honda DOT 4
Brake Fluid from a sealed container, or an
equivalent.
Other Checks:
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
(1)
(1)
Servicing Your Honda 93
Brakes
Adding Front Brake Fluid
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage
instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also
harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful
whenever you remove the reservoir cap; make
sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
•
Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not
be compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 Brake Fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the front brake reservoir cap screws
(1), reservoir cap (2) and diaphragm (3).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to
the upper level mark (4). Do not overfill.
3. Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the front brake reservoir cap screws
to the specified torque:
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
NOTICE
(1) front brake reservoir cap screws
(2) reservoir cap
(3) diaphragm
(4) upper level mark
Adding Rear Brake Fluid
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage
instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also
harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful
whenever you remove the reservoir cap; make
sure the reservoir is horizontal first.
•
Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not
be compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 Brake Fluid or an equivalent.
1. Remove the rear brake reservoir cap bolts (1),
reservoir cap (2), set plate (3) and diaphragm (4).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to
the upper level mark (5). Do not overfill.
NOTICE
(1) rear brake reservoir cap bolts
(2) reservoir cap
(3) set plate
(4) diaphragm
(5) upper level mark
(4)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(4)
(3)
(5)
(2)
(1)
3. Install the diaphragm, set plate and reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the rear brake reservoir cap bolts to
the specified torque:
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
94 Servicing Your Honda
Brakes
Brake Pad Wear
Brake pad wear depends on the severity of usage
and track conditions. (Generally, the pads will
wear faster on wet and dirty tracks) Inspect the
pads at each regular maintenance interval
(page 25).
Front Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) through the front
wheel to determine the brake pad wear. If either
brake pad is worn anywhere to a thickness of
0.04 in (1.0 mm), both brake pads must be
replaced.
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) front brake caliper
Rear Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) from the rear side of
the caliper to determine the brake pad wear . If
either brake pad is worn anywhere to a thickness
of 0.04 in (1.0 mm), both brake pads must be
replaced.
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) rear brake caliper
minimum thickness
indicator
wear indicator
grooves
replace
0.04 in
(1.0 mm)
(1)
0.04 in
(1.0 mm)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(2)
(3)
replace
0.04 in
(1.0 mm)
minimum thickness
indicator
(1)
Other Inspections
Check that the front brake lever and rear brake
pedal assemblies are positioned properly
(page 91) and the securing bolts are tight.
Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
Servicing Your Honda 95
Wheels
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Keeping the wheels true (round) and maintaining
correct spoke tension is critical to safe
motorcycle operation. During the first few rides,
spokes will loosen more rapidly due to the initial
seating of the parts. Excessively loose spokes
may result in instability at high speeds and the
possible loss of control. It ’s also important that
the rim locks are secure to prevent tire slippage.
It is not necessary to remove the wheels to
perform the recommended service in the
Maintenance Schedule (page 25). However,
information for wheel removal is provided for
emergency situations.
(2)
(3)
(1)
Axles & Wheel Bearings
See an official Honda Service Manual for
inspection information:
1. Check the axle shaft for runout.
2. Check the condition of the wheel bearings.
(1) wheel rim (3) rim lock
(2) spoke
Wheel Rims & Spokes
1. Inspect the wheel rims (1) and spokes (2) for
damage.
2. Tighten, any loose spokes and rim locks (3) to
the specified torque:
Spokes
:2.7 lbf·ft (3.7 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
Rim Locks : 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
3. Check wheel rim runout. If runout is
noticeable, see an official Honda Service
Manual for inspection instructions.
Tube Replacement
If a tube is punctured or damaged, you should
replace it as soon as possible. A repaired tube
may not have the same reliability as a new one,
and it may fail while you are riding.
Use a replacement tube equivalent to the original.
96 Servicing Your Honda
Tires & Tubes
WARNING
Using tires that are excessively worn or
improperly inflated can cause a crash in
which you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding tire inflation and
maintenance.
Front 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Rear 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
To safely operate your CRF, the tires must be the
proper type (off-road) and size, in good condition
with adequate tread, and correctly inflated.
The following pages give detailed information on
how and when to check your air pressure, how to
inspect your tires for wear and damage, and our
recommendations on tire repair and replacement.
Air Pressure
Properly inflated tires provide the best
combination of handling, tread life, and riding
comfort. Generally, underinflated tires wear
unevenly, adversely affect handling, and are more
likely to fail from being overheated.
Underinflated tires can also cause wheel damage
on hard terrain. Overinflated tires make your
CRF ride harshly, are more prone to damage
from surface hazards, and wear unevenly.
Make sure the valve stem caps are secure. If
necessary, install new caps.
Always check air pressure when your tires are
“cold.” If you check air pressure when your tires
are “warm” — even if your CRF has only been
ridden for a few miles — the readings will be
higher. If you let air out of warm tires to match
the recommended cold pressures, the tires will be
underinflated.
The correct “cold” tire pressures are:
If you decide to adjust tire pressures for a
particular riding condition, make changes a little
at a time.
Inspection
Take time to inspect your tires and wheels before
you ride.
• Inspect carefully for bumps or bulges in the
side of the tire or the tread. Replace any tire
that has a bump or bulge.
• Look closely for cuts, slits, or cracks in the
tires. Replace a tire if you can see fabric or
cord.
• Check for rocks or other objects embedded in
the tire or tread. Remove any objects.
• Check the position of both valve stems. A
tilted valve stem indicates the tube is slipping
inside the tire or the tire is slipping on the
rim.
Servicing Your Honda 97
Tires & Tubes
Tire Replacement
The tires that came on your CRF were designed
to provide a good combination of handling,
braking, durability, and comfort across a broad
range of riding conditions.
• When replacing, use the original equipment
tires or equivalent tires of the same size,
construction, speed rating, and load range as
the original.
• Replace the tube any time you replace a tire.
The old tube will probably be stretched and, if
installed in a new tire, could fail.
Front
Rear
Type
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP
120/80 – 19 63M
DUNLOP
MX51F
MX51
bias-ply, tube
WARNING
Installing improper tires on your
motorcycle can affect handling and
stability.This can cause a crash in which
you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Always use the size and type of tires
recommended in this owner’s manual.
98 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
The service life of the chain depends on proper
lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance
can cause premature wear or damage to the drive
chain or sprockets.
When the motorcycle is ridden on unusually
dusty or muddy tracks, more frequent
maintenance will be necessary.
Before servicing your drive chain, turn the
engine OFF and check that your transmission is
in neutral.
Inspection
1. Turn the engine off, raise the rear wheel of f
the ground by placing an optional workstand
or equivalent support under the engine and
shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Check the drive chain slack (1) in the upper
drive chain run midway between the drive (2)
and driven sprockets (3). Drive chain slack
should allow the following vertical movement
by hand:
1 – 1 3/8 in (25 – 35 mm)
(1) drive chain slack (3) driven sprocket
(2) drive sprocket
3. Check drive chain slack at several points
along the chain. The slack should remain
constant. If it isn’t, some links may be kinked
and binding. Lubricating the chain will often
eliminate binding and kinking.
Excessive chain slack may allow the drive chain
to damage the engine cases.
4. Inspect the drive chain for:
• damaged rollers
• loose pins
• dry or rusted links
• kinked or binding links
• excessive wear
Replace the drive chain (page 100) if it has
damaged rollers, loose pins, or kinks that cannot
be free. Lubricate the drive chain (page 99) if it
appears dry or shows signs of rust. Lubricate
any kinked or binding links and work them free.
Adjust chain slack if needed (page 99).
NOTICE
(1) chain slider
2. Check the chain guide slider (2) for wear .
Replace the guide slider if it is worn to the
bottom of the wear limit (3).
(2) chain guide slider (3) wear limit
(1) 1 – 1 3/8 in (25 – 35 mm)
(2)
(3)
(1)
0.2 in
(5 mm)
0.10 in
(2.5 mm)
(2)
(3)
Drive Chain Sliders
1. Check the chain slider (1) for wear.
Replace it if below the service limit.
SERVICE LIMIT:
upper side: 0.2 in (5 mm)
lower side: 0.10 in (2.5 mm)
Servicing Your Honda 99
Drive Chain Rollers
Check the upper drive chain roller (1) and lower
drive chain roller (2) for wear or damage.
Measure the diameter of the drive chain rollers
and replace them if below the service limit.
Service Limit:
Upper roller:
1.4 in (35 mm)
Lower roller: 1.2 in (31 mm)
Replace the roller if necessary as follows.
Install the upper drive chain roller (Green) with
the “
/” mark (3) facing toward the frame and
lower drive chain roller (Black) with the lar ge
concave facing outside.
Install the drive chain roller bolt and nut.
Drive Chain
(1) upper drive chain roller (Green)
(2) lower drive chain roller (Black)
(3) “
//
” mark
Tighten the drive chain roller bolt and nut to the
specified torque:
9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
Lubrication
Commercially prepared drive chain lubricants
may be purchased at most motorcycle shops and
should be used in preference to motor oil. Pro
Honda HP Chain Lube or an equivalent is
recommended.
Saturate each chain joint so that the lubricant
penetrates the space between adjacent surfaces of
the link plates and rollers.
(3)
(1)
(2)
(5)
(4)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(6)
Adjustment
1. Loosen the rear axle nut (1).
2. Loosen the chain adjuster lock nuts (2) and
turn the adjusting bolts (3) counterclockwise
to decrease slack or clockwise to increase
slack.
Align the index marks (4) of the axle plates
(5) with the same reference marks (6) on both
sides of the swingarm.
(1) rear axle nut (4) index marks
(2) chain adjuster lock nuts (5) axle plates
(3) adjusting bolts (6) reference marks
3. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified
torque:
94 lbf·ft (128 N·m, 13.1 kgf·m)
4. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
5. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise until
it touches the axle plates lightly. Then tighten
the chain adjuster lock nuts to the specified
torque while holding the adjusting bolts with a
wrench:
20 lbf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m)
100 Servicing Your Honda
Drive Chain
5. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear or damage.
We recommend replacing the sprocket
whenever a new chain is installed.
Both chain and sprockets must be in good
condition, or the new replacement chain or
sprocket(s) will wear rapidly.
Excessively worn sprocket teeth have a
hooked, worn appearance. Replace any
sprocket which is damaged or excessively
worn.
Service limit:
10.20 in (259.0 mm)
MEASURE A SPAN OF 17 PINS (16 PITCHES)
Use of a new chain with worn sprockets will
cause rapid chain wear.
6. Measure a section of the drive chain to
determine whether the chain is worn beyond
its service limit. Put the transmission in gear ,
and then turn the rear wheel forward until the
lower section of the chain is pulled taut. With
the chain held taut and any kinked joints
straightened, measure the distance between a
span of 17 pins, from pin center to pin center .
If the measurement exceeds the service limit,
replace the chain. After the chain is
measured, shift the transmission into neutral
again before proceeding with inspection and
service.
NOTICE
7. Lubricate the drive chain (page 99).
8. Pass the chain over the sprockets and join the
ends of the chain with the master link. For
ease of assembly, hold the chain ends against
adjacent driven sprocket teeth while inserting
the master link. Install the master link
retaining clip so that the closed end of the clip
will face the direction of forward wheel
rotation.
9. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
More About Drive Chain
• The master link is the most critical element of
drive chain security. Master links are
reusable, as long as they remain in excellent
condition. We recommend installing a new
master link retaining clip when the drive
chain is reassembled.
• You may find it easier to install a new chain
by connecting it to the old chain with a
master link and pulling the old chain to
position the new chain on the sprockets.
Removal, Cleaning & Replacement
For maximum service life, the drive chain should
be cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted before each
outing.
1. Remove the master link retaining clip (1) with
pliers.
Do not bend or twist the clip.
2. Remove the master link (2). Remove the
drive chain.
(1) master link retaining clip
(2) master link
3. Clean the drive chain in high flash-point
solvent and allow it to dry.
4. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or
damage. Replace the drive chain if it has
damaged rollers, loose fitting links, or
otherwise appears unserviceable.
Chain:
Size/link:
D.I.D 520DMA4/116RB
RK520TXZ/116RJ
(1)
(2)
Servicing Your Honda 101
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Inspection
Check the mounting bolts and exhaust pipe joint
nuts for tightness.
Check the exhaust pipe and muffler for cracks or
deformation.
A damaged exhaust pipe and muffler may reduce
engine performance.
(1) seat mounting bolt (3) right side cover
(2) side cover bolt
2. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt (4).
3. Remove the muffler mounting A bolt (5),
muffler mounting B bolt (6), washer A (7),
washer B (8) and muffler (9).
(5) muffler mounting A bolt
(6) muffler mounting B bolt
(7) washer A
(8) washer B
(9) muffler
(1)
(3)
(2)
(5)
(6)
(9)
(7)
(8)
Muffler Removal
1. Remove the seat mounting bolt (1), side cover
bolt (2) and right side cover (3).
(4) muffler clamp bolt
(4)
102 Servicing Your Honda
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Muffler Installation
1. Remove the gasket (1).
2. Install the muffler clamp (2) and a new gasket
onto the exhaust pipe (3).
(1) gasket (new) (3) exhaust pipe
(2) muffler clamp
3. Install the muffler (4).
4. Install the muffler clamp (2) by aligning the
tab (5) of the muffler clamp with the cutout
(6) of the muffler.
(2) muffler clamp (5) tab
(4) muffler (6) cutout
5. Install the washer A (7), washer B (8), muffler
mounting B bolt (9) and muffler mounting A
bolt (10).
(7) washer A
(8) washer B
(9) muffler mounting B bolt
(10) muffler mounting A bolt
6. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt (11) to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
(9) muffler mounting B bolt
(10) muffler mounting A bolt
(3)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(2)
(6)
(5)
(10)
(9)
(7)
(8)
(10)
(9)
7. Tighten the muffler mounting B bolt (9) and
muffler mounting A bolt (10) to the specified
torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(11) muffler clamp bolt
(11)
Servicing Your Honda 103
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Exhaust Pipe Installation
1. Install a new exhaust pipe gasket (1) as
shown.
2. Install the exhaust pipe (2) and exhaust pipe
joint nuts (3).
(1) exhaust pipe gasket (new)
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) exhaust pipe joint nuts
3. Install the muffler (page 102) but do not
tighten the bolts yet.
4. Tighten the exhaust pipe joint nuts to the
specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
5. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt, muffler
mounting A bolt and B bolt (page 102).
6. Installation can be done in the reverse order of
removal.
Exhaust Pipe Removal
1. Remove the muffler (page 101).
2. Remove the exhaust pipe joint nuts (1),
exhaust pipe (2) and gasket (3).
(1) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(2) exhaust pipe
(3) gasket
(2)
(3)
(1)
(2)
(1)
(3)
(12) right side cover (14) seat mounting bolt
(13) bolt
(14)
(12)
(13)
8. Install the right side cover (12) and bolt (13).
9. Install the seat mounting bolt (14) and tighten
it to the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
Tighten the bolt (12) to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
Steering Damper
104 Servicing Your Honda
(1)
(3)
(2)
(6)
(5)
(4)
Refer to Safety Precaution on page 23.
Loose, worn or damaged steering damper
components may adversely affect the handling
and stability of your CRF. If any steering damper
components appear worn or damaged, see your
dealer for further inspection. Your dealer is
qualified to determine whether or not
replacement parts are needed.
Do not attempt to disassemble the steering
damper; see your dealer.
The instructions found in this owner ’s manual are
limited to adjustment and service of the steering
damper assembly only.
Steering Damper Operation Inspection
• When your CRF is new, break it in for
approximately 1 hour to ensure that the
steering damper has worked in (page 19).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the
steering damper at the standard setting before
making any adjustments.
• Check the spherical bearings and dust seal for
dust, dirt, and foreign materials.
• Make all damping adjustments in one-click
increments. (Adjusting two or more clicks at a
time may cause you to pass over the best
adjustment.) Test ride after each adjustment.
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable
adjustment, return to the standard position and
begin again.
1. Unlock the number plate tab (1) from the
handlebar pad.
Remove the bolts (2) and number plate (3).
(4) steering damper
(5) damper rod
(6) steering damper mounting bolts
(1) number plate tab (3) number plate
(2) bolts
2. Check the steering damper (4) for deformation
or oil leaks.
Check the damper rod (5) for bending or damage.
Replace the damper case or damper rod if
there is any abnormality.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual or
see your dealer for steering damper
disassembly.
Check the torque of the steering damper
mounting bolts (6):
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
Servicing Your Honda 105
3. With your CRF on a box or an optional
workstand (front wheel elevated), check that
the steering moves smoothly from side-to-
side.
4. Install the number plate (3) by aligning its
holes (7) with the tabs (8) on the steering
stem.
Install and tighten the bolts (2).
Route the number plate tab (1) around the
handlebar pad (9) as shown.
(1)
(9)
(7)
(3)
(2)
(8)
(1) number plate tab (7) holes
(2) bolts (8) tabs
(3) number plate (9) handlebar pad
Steering Damper
(3)
(2)
(1)
(1)
Removal
1. Remove the number plate (page 104).
2. Remove the steering damper mounting bolts
(1), collar (2) and steering damper (3).
(1) steering damper mounting bolts
(2) collar
(3) steering damper
(1) damper rod
Inspection
1. Check the damper rod (1) operation.
The damper rod is fully extended and
compressed by hand. Release the damper rod,
then check that it extends to its maximum length.
If the damper rod does not extend to its
maximum length, refer to an official Honda
Service Manual for disassembly and
inspection instructions or see your dealer.
(cont’d)
106 Servicing Your Honda
Installation
1. Clean and apply a locking agent to the
steering damper mounting bolt threads.
2. Install the steering damper (1) with its “UP”
mark (2) facing up and forward. Turn the
damper rod and its stopper ring (3) facing
toward the front side.
3. Install the collar (4) and steering damper
mounting bolts (5).
Be sure to install the collar with its wide
flange side facing toward the steering head
pipe side.
4. Tighten the steering damper mounting bolts to
the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
5. With your CRF on a box or an optional
workstand (front wheel elevated), check that
the steering moves smoothly from side to
side.
Steering Damper
(2)
(3)
(4)
(1)
(5)
6. Install the number plate (page 105).
(1) steering damper
(2) “UP” mark
(3) stopper ring
(4) collar
(5) steering damper mounting bolts
(2) spherical bearings
(2)
2. Check the condition of the spherical
bearings (2).
Move the spherical bearing with your finger.
The spherical bearing should move smoothly
and quietly.
Replace the spherical bearing if it does not
move smoothly and quietly.
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual or
see your dealer.
Servicing Your Honda 107
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Steering Head Bearing Inspection
1. With your CRF on a box or optional
workstand (front wheel elevated), turn the
handlebar to the right and left to check for
roughness in the steering head bearings.
Handlebar Inspection
1. Check the handlebar (1) for bends or cracks.
2. Check that the handlebar has not moved from
its proper position the end of the right
handlebar holders (2) is aligned with the paint
mark (3).
3. Check the torque of the handlebar upper
holder bolts (4):
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Tighten the front bolts first.
(1) handlebar
(2) right handlebar holders
(3) paint mark
(4) handlebar upper holder bolts
(1)
(4)
(3)
(4)
(2)
2. Stand in front of your CRF, grab the fork (at
the axle), look at the steering head, and push
the fork in and out (toward the engine) to
check for play in the steering head bearings.
If any roughness or play is felt, but you do
not see any movement in the steering head,
the fork bushings may be worn. Refer to an
official Honda Service Manual for
replacement or adjustment procedures, or see
your dealer.
Control Cables
Periodically, disconnect the throttle and clutch
cables at their upper ends. Thoroughly lubricate
the cable pivot points with a commercially
available cable lubricant. If the clutch lever and
throttle operation is not smooth, replace the
cable.
Be sure the throttle returns freely from fully open
to fully closed automatically, in all steering
positions.
108 Servicing Your Honda
Additional Maintenance Procedures
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners
before every outing.
Item
2
3
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
1
Clutch cover bolts
Water pump cover bolts
Crankshaft hole cap
Oil filter cover bolts
Cylinder head bolts
Exhaust pipe joint nuts
Drive sprocket bolt
Engine oil drain bolt
Transmission oil drain bolt
Coolant drain bolt
Water hose joint bolts
ENGINE
Torque
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
7
7
7
9
11
7
38
15
23
12
12
7
7
10
10
10
12
15
10
51
21
31
16
16
10
10
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.2
1.5
1.0
5.2
2.1
3.2
1.6
1.6
1.0
1.0
Cylinder head cover
socket bolts
Transmission oil check
bolt
4
(1) cylinder head cover socket bolts
(2) clutch cover bolts
(3) water pump cover bolts
(4) transmission oil check bolt
(5) crankshaft hole cap
(7) cylinder head bolts
(10) engine oil drain bolt
(12) coolant drain bolt
(13) water hose joint bolts
(1) cylinder head cover socket bolts
(6) oil filter cover bolts
(7) cylinder head bolts
(8) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(9) drive sprocket bolt
(11) transmission oil drain bolt
(1)
(5)
(7)
(4)
(2)
(10)
(12)
(13)
(3)
(11)
(1)
(9)
(7)
(8)
(6)
RIGHT SIDE
LEFT SIDE
Servicing Your Honda 109
Appearance Care
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 23.
Frequent cleaning and polishing will keep your
CRF looking newer longer. Frequent cleaning
also identifies you as an owner who values his
motorcycle. A clean CRF is also easier to inspect
and service.
While you’re cleaning, be sure to look for
damage, wear, and gasoline or oil leaks.
General Recommendations
• To clean your CRF you may use:
– water
– a mild, neutral detergent and water
– a mild spray and wipe cleaner/polisher
– a mild spray and rinse cleaner/degreaser and
water
• Avoid products that contain harsh deter gents
or chemical solvents that could damage the
metal, paint, and plastic on your CRF or
discolor the seat and decals.
• If your CRF is still warm from recent
operation, give the engine and exhaust system
time to cool off.
• We recommend the use of a garden hose to
wash your CRF. High pressure washers (like
those at coin-operated car washes) can
damage certain parts of your CRF. The force
of water under extreme pressure can penetrate
the dust seals of the suspension pivot points
and steering head bearings-driving dirt inside
and needed lubrication out.
If you use a high pressure washer, avoid spraying
the following areas:
brake master cylinders
drive chain
electrical circuit
muffler outlet
steering head bearings
suspension pivot points
throttle body
under fuel tank
under seat
(1) steering head bearings
(2) suspension pivot points
High pressure water (or air) can damage
certain parts of your CRF.
You may use Pro Honda Hondabrite, a
multi-surface cleaner/degreaser, to remove both
dirt and petroleum-based grime from paint, alloy,
plastic, and rubber surfaces. Wet any heavy
deposits with water first. Then spray on the Pro
Honda Hondabrite and rinse with a garden hose
at full pressure. Stubborn deposits may require a
quick wipe with a sponge.
NOTICE
Washing Your Motorcycle with a Mild
Detergent
1. Rinse your CRF thoroughly with cool water to
remove loose dirt.
2. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild,
neutral detergent, such as dish washing
liquid or a product made especially for
washing motorcycles or automobiles.
3. Wash your CRF with a sponge or a soft towel.
As you wash, check for heavy grime. If
necessary, use a mild cleaner/degreaser to
remove the grime.
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it
could damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) is for removing stains on the
non-coated aluminum frame only.
4. After washing, rinse your CRF thoroughly
with plenty of clean water to remove any
residue.
Detergent residue can corrode alloy parts.
5. Dry your CRF with a chamois or a soft towel.
Leaving water on the surface to air dry can
cause dulling and water spots.
As you dry, inspect for chips and scratches.
6. Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
7. Start the engine and let it idle for several
minutes. The engine heat will help dry moist
areas.
8. As a precaution, ride at a slow speed and
apply the brakes several times. This will help
dry the brakes and restore normal braking
performance.
NOTICE
(1)
(2)
110 Servicing Your Honda
Appearance Care
Condensation Control
Some condensation can form within the
transmission cavity as well. This is natural and
just one more reason you should change the
engine and transmission oil often.
After Cleaning Lubrication
There are some things you should do just after
washing your CRF to help prevent rust and
corrosion.
Once your CRF is clean and dry, you should
protect any bare steel from rusting by applying a
light coating of a rust-inhibitor. Lubricate the
drive chain and drive sprocket after removing
and thoroughly cleaning in solvent. Be sure the
chain is wiped clean and is dry before applying
the chain lube.
Follow the suggestions given in the pages of this
manual for lubricating items such as the brake
and clutch lever pivot points and footpeg pivot
pins.
Aluminum Frame Maintenance
Aluminum corrodes when it comes in contact
with dust, mud and road salt.
To remove stains, use Scotch Brite Hand Pad
#7447 (maroon) or an equivalent.
Wet the pad and polish the surface using strokes
parallel to the length of the frame.
Clean the frame using a wet sponge and a mild
detergent, then rinse well with clean water. Dry
the frame with a soft clean cloth, using strokes
parallel to the length of the frame.
Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it
could damage or discolor the frame surface.
Muffler stain remover (Scotch Brite Hand Pad
#7447-maroon) is for removing stains on the
non-coated aluminum frame only.
NOTICE
Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Maintenance
The exhaust pipe and muffler are stainless steel
but may became stained by mud or dust.
To remove mud or dust, use a wet sponge and a
liquid kitchen abrasive, then rinse well with clean
water. Dry with chamois or a soft towel.
If necessary, remove heat stains by using a
commercially available fine texture compound.
Then rinse by the same manner as removing mud
or dust.
Adjustments for Competition 111
Adjustments for Competition
This section tells you how to fine tune your CRF
for maximum competition performance.
Initial suspension adjustments should be
performed after a minimum of 2 hours of easy
break-in time.
Optional front and rear suspension springs are
available in order to tailor your CRF specifically
for your weight, riding style and course
conditions.
Follow the instructions given in the rear
suspension sag setting section of
Rear
Suspension Adjustments
to determine if your
combined rider and sprung machine weight (rider
fully dressed for competition and machine
coolant, oil and fuel levels ready for competition)
requires an optional stiffer or softer rear spring.
The need for either optional rear spring may need
to be balanced by installing the optional fork
springs of a similar rate.
Front Suspension Adjustments.........................112
Front Suspension Air Pressure....................112
Front Suspension Damping.........................113
Fork Springs................................................113
Front Suspension Disassembly ...................114
Damper Oil Change ....................................117
Fork Assembly............................................120
Rear Suspension Adjustments..........................126
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load ..............126
Rear Suspension Damping..........................127
Rear Suspension Race Sag .........................128
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Conditions...................................................130
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines..................131
Tuning Tips ......................................................134
Spark Plug Reading ....................................134
Steering Damper Adjustment ...........................135
Steering Damper Damping .........................135
Steering Damper Adjustment Guidelines.........136
Chassis Adjustments.........................................137
Rear End .....................................................137
Fork Height/Angle ......................................137
Wheelbase...................................................137
Gearing .............................................................138
Tire Selection for Track Conditions.................139
Personal Fit Adjustments .................................140
Control Positioning .....................................140
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape...........140
112 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
The front suspension can be adjusted for the
rider’s weight and riding conditions by using one
or more of the following methods:
•
Oil volume — The effects of higher or lower
fork oil capacity are only felt during the final
3.9 in (100 mm) of fork travel.
•
Compression damping — Turning the
compression damping adjuster (1) adjusts how
quickly the fork compresses.
•
Rebound damping — Turning the rebound
damping adjuster (2) adjusts how quickly the
fork extends.
•
Fork springs — Optional springs are
available in softer types than the standard rate
(page 156).
(1) compression damping adjuster
(2) rebound damping adjuster
(1)
(2)
Front Suspension Air Pressure
Air is an unstable gas which builds up pressure
as it is worked (such as in a fork). Air pressure
acts as a progressive spring and affects the entire
range of fork travel. This means the fork action
on your CRF will get stiffer during a race. For
this reason, release built-up air pressure in the
fork legs between motos. Be sure the fork is
fully extended with the front tire off the ground
when you release the pressure.
The standard air pressure is 0 psi (0 kPa, 0
kgf/cm
2
). You may relieve accumulated air
pressure in the fork legs by using the fork air
pressure release screws. The front wheel should
be off the ground before you release the pressure.
The air pressure should be adjusted according to
the altitude and outside temperature.
1. Place an optional workstand under the engine,
so that the front wheel is off the ground.
Do not adjust air pressure with the front wheel
on the ground as this will give false pressure
readings.
2. Remove the fork air pressure release screw (1).
3. Check that the O-ring (2) is in good condition.
(1) fork air pressure release screw (2) O-ring
(1)
(2)
4. Install and tighten the fork air pressure release
screw to the specified torque:
0.9 lbf·ft (1.2 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
Adjustments for Competition 113
Front Suspension Adjustments
Front Suspension Damping
Compression Damping
Adjustment
This adjustment affects how quickly the fork
compresses. The fork compression damping
adjuster (1) has 18 positions or more. Turning the
adjuster screw one full turn changes the adjuster
four positions. To adjust the compression
damping to the standard position, proceed as
follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 12 clicks.
Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
Rebound Damping
Adjustment
The fork rebound damping adjuster (2) has 16
positions or more. Turning the adjuster screw one
full turn clockwise advances the adjuster four
positions. To adjust the rebound damping to the
standard setting, proceed as follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 8 clicks.
Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
same position.
Both compression and rebound damping can be
increased by turning the adjuster clockwise.
Always start with full hard when adjusting
damping.
Do not turn the adjuster screw more than the
given positions or the adjuster may be damaged.
Be sure that the compression and rebound
adjusters are firmly located in a detent, and not
between positions.
NOTICE
Fork Springs
The fork springs in CRF’s are about right for
riders weighing between 170 lb (77 kg) and 200
lb (91 kg) (less riding gear). So if you're a
heavier rider, you have to go up on the oil
capacity. Do not use less oil than the minimum
specified for each spring or there will be a loss of
rebound damping control near full extension. If
the fork is too hard on big bumps, turn the
damping adjuster counterclockwise 1-turn and
lower the oil capacity in increments of 0.2 US oz
(5 cm
3
) in both fork legs until the desired
performance is obtained. Do not, however, lower
the oil capacity below the minimum oil capacity.
Minimum oil capacity:
Standard spring:
10.1 US oz (300 cm
3
)
Medium spring: 10.3 US oz (305 cm
3
)
Soft spring: 10.2 US oz (303 cm
3
)
When adjusting oil capacity, bear in mind that
the air in the fork will increase in pressure while
riding; therefore, the higher the oil capacity, the
higher the eventual pressure of any air in the
fork.
(1) compression damping (2) rebound damping
adjuster adjuster
(1)
(2)
Oil capacity
(MAX)
12.1 US oz
(357 cm
3
)
Oil capacity
(MIN)
10.1 US oz
(300 cm
3
)
Oil capacity
(STANDARD)
11.8 US oz
(350 cm
3
)
114 Servicing Your Honda
Front Suspension Disassembly
• If your CRF is brand-new, put enough part-
throttle break-in time (about 1 hour) on it to
ensure that the suspension has worked in.
• For optimum performance, and extended fork
life, the fork should be completely
disassembled and cleaned after the first 3
hours of riding. See an official Honda
Service Manual or your dealer for this service.
• When disassembling the fork, turn the
compression (1) and rebound (2) damping
adjusters counterclockwise to the softest
position to prevent damaging the adjustment
needle (be sure to record the number of turns
from the starting position).
(1) compression damping (2) rebound damping
adjuster adjuster
(1)
(2)
Front Suspension Adjustments
(4)
(3)
4. Loosen the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (5).
5. Loosen the fork damper (6) using a lock nut
wrench (7), but do not remove them yet.
• Lock nut wrench 07WMA-MEN0100
Do not use an adjustable wrench to loosen the
fork damper: it may damage them.
NOTICE
(5) fork bridge upper pinch bolts
(6) fork damper
(7) lock nut wrench
6. Remove the disc cover socket bolt (8).
(8) disc cover socket bolt
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
1. Remove the number plate (page 104).
2. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support with the front wheel off the
ground.
3. Remove the handlebar lower holder nuts,
washers, mounting rubbers (3) and handlebar
(4).
Keep the master cylinder upright to prevent air
from entering system.
NOTICE
(3) handlebar lower holder nuts, washers and
mounting rubbers
(4) handlebar
Adjustments for Competition 115
Front Suspension Adjustments
(9) front axle nut (11) front axle shaft
(10) axle pinch bolts
8. Remove the brake hose clamp bolts (12),
stay A (13) and stay B (14).
9. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (15)
and brake caliper (16).
• Do not support the brake caliper by the brake
hose.
• Do not operate the brake lever after the front
wheel is removed. To do so will cause
difficulty in fitting the brake disc between the
brake pads.
(12) brake hose clamp bolts
(13) stay A
(14) stay B
(15) brake caliper mounting bolts
(16) brake caliper
10. Remove the fork protector socket bolts (17)
and fork protectors (18).
(11)
(9)
(10)
(10)
(16)
(14)
(13) (12)
(15)
7. Remove the front axle nut (9) and loosen the
axle pinch bolts (10) on both forks.
Pull the front axle shaft (11) out of the wheel
hub and remove the front wheel with disc
cover/collar.
(17) fork protector socket bolts
(18) fork protectors
(18)
(17)
(17)
(17)
(22)
(21) (20)
(19) fork bridge lower pinch bolts
12. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding
surface (20) of the slider and fork dust
seal (21).
13. Measure the length (22) between the axle
holder and outer tube and record it before
disassembling the fork.
(19)
11. Loosen the fork bridge lower pinch bolts (19),
then pull the fork legs down and out.
(20) sliding surface (22) length
(21) fork dust seal
(cont’d)
Front Suspension Adjustments
116 Adjustments for Competition
(26) outer tube/slider (27) oil holes
16. Place the lower end (axle holder) (23) of the
slider in a vise with a piece of wood or soft
jaws to avoid to damage.
Over-tightening the vice can damage the axle
holder.
17. Remove the fork center bolt (28).
NOTICE
(23) axle holder (28) fork center bolt
(6)
(23)
(7)
(26)
(27)
(28)
(23)
(21) fork dust seal (25) slider
(24) outer tube
(21)
(24)
(25)
NO GOOD
(6) fork damper (23) axle holder
(7) lock nut wrench
The outer tube (24) can drop on the slider (25)
and damage the fork dust seal (21).
To avoid damage, hold both the outer tube and
slider when removing the fork damper.
NOTICE
14. Hold the outer tube, then remove the fork
damper (6) from the outer tube using a lock
nut wrench (7). Gently slide the outer tube
down onto the lower end (axle holder) (23).
15. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube/slider
(26) and oil holes (27) of the fork damper .
19. Push the fork center bolt (28) out from the
axle holder (23) of the slider by pushing the
fork damper. While the fork center bolt is
pushed out, install the piston base (29) or a
mechanic’s stopper tool between the axle
holder and fork center bolt lock nut (30).
• Piston base 07958-2500001
20. Hold the fork center bolt lock nut and remove
the fork center bolt from the fork damper .
Do not remove the lock nut from the fork damper
piston rod. If the lock nut is removed, the piston
rod will fall in the fork damper and you may not
reassemble the fork damper.
NOTICE
18. Make the mechanic's stopper tool out of a thin
piece of steel (0.08 in (2.0 mm) thick) as
shown if you do not have a special tool.
1.5 in (39 mm)
0.6 in
(15 mm)
2.2 in (55 mm)
0.30 in
(7.5 mm)
1.0 in
(25 mm)
Front Suspension Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 117
(cont’d)
(23) axle holder (29) piston base
(28) fork center bolt (30) fork center bolt lock nut
21. Remove the push rod (31) from the fork damper .
22. Remove the piston base (29) or mechanic's
stopper tool between the axle holder (23) and
fork center bolt lock nut (30) while pushing
the fork damper.
Be careful not to damage the lock nut and fork
center bolt hole.
NOTICE
(28)(30)
(29)
(23)
23. Remove the fork damper assembly (32) from
the fork assembly (33).
Remove the fork from the vise.
Remove the fork spring (34) from the fork
assembly. Remove the O-ring (35).
Do not attempt to separate the fork assembly and
drop the axle holder out from the outer tube,
which can damage the guide bushings (36).
To avoid damage, hold both the outer tube and
slider.
NOTICE
Damper Oil Change
1. Place the fork damper (1) in a vise with a
piece of wood or soft jaws to avoid damage.
Over-tighten the vice can damage the axle holder.
2. Loosen the fork cap assembly (2) while
holding the fork damper (1) using the
following tools:
• Fork cap bolt holder, 36 mm (3)
070MB-MEN0100
• Lock nut wrench (4) 070MA-MEN0100
NOTICE
(1) fork damper (3) fork cap bolt holder, 36 mm
(2) fork cap assembly (4) lock nut wrench
(31)(30)
(29)
(23)
(32)
(35)
(33)
(34)
(2)(3)
(4)
(1)
(32) fork damper assembly (34) fork spring
(33) fork assembly (35) O-ring
(23) axle holder (30) fork center bolt lock nut
(29) piston base (31) push rod
(36)
NO GOOD
(36) guide bushings
Front Suspension Adjustments
118 Adjustments for Competition
(2) fork cap assembly (5) fork damper piston rod
5. Empty the fork oil from the oil holes (6) of
the fork damper oil/spring chamber (7) by
pumping the damper rod several times.
6. Clean the fork cap and fork damper threads
(8).
8. Pump the fork damper piston rod (5) slowly
several times to bleed the air from the fork
damper (1).
(1) fork damper (5) fork damper piston rod
9. Apply fork oil to the new O-rings (9) on the
fork cap assembly (2).
(2)
(5)
(7)
(6)
(1)
(1)
(5)
(8) fork cap and fork damper threads
7. Extend the fork damper piston rod to maximum
length.
Pour the recommended fork oil into the fork
damper (1).
Recommended Oil:
KHL15-11 (KYB)
Recommended Amount:
7.3 US oz (215 cm
3
)
3. Remove the fork cap assembly (2) from the
fork damper threads and then pop it out by
pumping the fork damper piston rod (5)
slowly.
4. Remove the fork cap assembly (2).
Be careful not to damage the fork cap bushings.
Do not disassemble the fork cap assembly.
Replace the fork cap as an assembly if it is
damaged.
(6) oil holes
(7) fork damper oil/spring chamber
(8)
(1) fork damper
(9)
(2)
(2) fork cap assembly (9) O-rings (new)
Front Suspension Adjustments
Adjustments for Competition 119
(cont’d)
10. Extend the fork damper piston rod (5) to
maximum length, holding it, install the fork
cap assembly (2) to the fork damper (1).
Be careful not to damage the fork cap piston ring.
If it is difficult to install the fork cap assembly,
the fork damper oil level might be higher than
standard oil level.
(1)
(2)
(5)
(1) fork damper (5) fork damper piston rod
(2) fork cap assembly
(7) fork damper oil/spring chamber
(11) soft jaws
(12) shop towel
13. Check the fork damper piston rod sliding
surface for damage.
14. Cover the fork damper piston rod end with
soft jaws (11) to prevent fork damage.
Cover the oil holes with shop towel (12) to
prevent blow out of fork oil.
Blow the extra oil off from the fork damper
oil/spring chamber (7) by pumping the fork
damper piston rod to full stroke.
Be careful not to bend or damage the fork
damper piston rod when the piston rod is stroked.
NOTICE
(5)
(10)
(7)
(12)
(11)
(1) fork damper (3) fork cap bolt holder, 36 mm
(2) fork cap assembly (4) lock nut wrench
12. Completely screw in the fork center bolt lock
nut (10) to the fork damper piston rod (5).
(1)
(4)
(2)
(3)
11. Place the fork damper (1) in a vise with a
piece of wood or soft jaws to avoid damage.
Tighten the fork cap assembly (2) using the
fork cap bolt holder, 36 mm (3) while holding
the cutout of the fork damper using the lock
nut wrench (4) to the specified torque:
21 Ibf·ft (28 N·m, 2.9 kgf·m)
• Fork cap bolt holder, 36 mm
070MB-MEN0100
• Lock nut wrench 070MA-MEN0100
(5) fork damper piston rod (10) fork center bolt lock nut
120 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
Fork Assembly
1. Drain the fork oil from the fork assembly (1)
by placing it upside down.
(About 0.3 US oz (9.8 cm
3
) of fork oil will be
left in the outer tube/slider when it is left
inverted for about 20 minutes at 68 °F/20°C)
(1) fork assembly
To properly dispose of drained fluids, refer to
You & the Environment (page 144).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
2. Tighten the fork center bolt lock nut (2) fully
and measure the thread length (A) as shown.
Standard:
0.6 – 0.7 in (16 – 18 mm)
Wipe the oil completely off the fork damper.
(2) fork center bolt lock nut (A) thread length
3. Blow out the oil completely off the fork
spring (3) using compressed air.
Install the fork spring to the fork damper
assembly (4).
Install the fork damper assembly to the fork
assembly (1).
(1) fork assembly (4) fork damper assembly
(3) fork spring
(1)
32°F/0°C
50°F/10°C
68°F/20°C
86°F/30°C
(2)
(A)
(4)
(1)
(3)
(6) oil holes (7) fork damper oil/spring chamber
Pour the drained oil into a suitable container and
dispose of it in an approved manner (page 144).
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
(7)
(6)
15. Drain the extra oil from the oil holes (6) of
the fork damper oil/spring chamber (7).
By doing above procedure, about 0.3 US oz
(10 cm
3
) of fork fluid will be drained from the
damper oil/spring chamber through the oil hole
and cause 6.9 US oz (205 cm
3
) of fork fluid to be
left in the chamber.
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 121
Front Suspension Adjustments
4. Place the lower end (axle holder) of the slider
in a vise with a piece of wood or soft jaws to
avoid to damage.
Over-tightening the vise can damage the axle
holder.
5. Push out the fork damper piston rod from the
axle holder of the slider by pushing the fork
damper.
Apply pressure to the fork damper and insert
the piston base (5) or mechanic's stopper tool
between the axle holder and fork center bolt
lock nut (2).
Measure the thread length again.
Standard:
0.6 – 0.7 in (16 – 18 mm)
6. Install the push rod (6) into the fork damper
piston rod until it stops.
7. Apply fork oil to new sealing washer (7) and
O-ring (8) and install them to the fork center
bolt (9).
Install the fork center bolt to the fork damper
piston rod. Tighten the fork center bolt fully
by hand.
NOTICE
(2) fork center bolt lock nut (7) sealing washer (new)
(5) piston base (8) O-ring (new)
(6) push rod (9) fork center bolt
8. Measure the length of the fork center bolt lock
nut (2) and fork center bolt (9) clearance.
Standard
: 0.04 – 0.14 in (1.0 – 3.5 mm)
If the clearance is out of specification, check the
fork center bolt lock nut and fork center bolt
installation.
(2) fork center bolt lock nut (9) fork center bolt
9. Tighten the fork center bolt lock nut (2) to the
fork center bolt (9) closely by hand. Tighten
the fork center bolt lock nut to the specified
torque using an open end wrench 9/16 in
(15 mm):
21 Ibf·ft (29 N·m, 3.0 kgf·m)
(2) fork center bolt lock nut
(9) fork center bolt
10. Remove the piston base or mechanic's stopper
tool while pushing the fork damper.
Apply locking agent to the fork center bolt
threads.
Install the fork center bolt (9) to the axle
holder and tighten it to the specified torque:
41 Ibf·ft (55 N·m, 5.6 kgf·m)
(9) fork center bolt
11. Measure the length between the axle holder
and outer tube.
Standard:
12.66 ± 0.1 in (321.5 ± 2 mm)
12. Compare the length (10) at assembly and at
disassembly. They should be the same length.
(10) length
(2) (5)
(6)
(8)
(7)
(9)
(2)
(9)
0.04 – 0.14 in
(1.0 – 3.5 mm)
(2)
(9)
(9)
(10)
If the length at assembly is longer than at
disassembly, check the fork center bolt and fork
center bolt lock nut installation.
122 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
13. Pour the recommended fork oil (11) into the
fork assembly (1).
Recommended Oil:
KHL15-11 (KYB)
(1) fork assembly (11) fork oil
(1)
(11)
Fork Oil Capacity:
Standard (Stiff) 27.41 lbf/in (4.8 N/mm) Fork Spring
Standard oil
capacity
11.8 US oz
(350 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.1 US oz
(357 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.1 US oz
(300 cm
3
)
6 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
No mark
(factory products)
or
Standard oil
capacity
12.0 US oz
(355 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.2 US oz
(362 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.3 US oz
(305 cm
3
)
4 scribe marks
Optional Medium 26.27 lbf/in (4.6 N/mm) Fork Spring
Optional Soft 25.12 lbf/in (4.4 N/mm) Fork Spring
Standard oil
capacity
11.9 US oz
(352 cm
3
)
Maximum oil
capacity
12.1 US oz
(359 cm
3
)
Slightly stiffer as
it nears full
compression.
Slightly softer as
it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil
capacity
10.2 US oz
(303 cm
3
)
2 scribe marks
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
legs.
(cont’d)
Adjustments for Competition 123
Front Suspension Adjustments
14. Install a new O-ring (12) on the fork damper
assembly (4). Apply the recommended fork
oil to the O-ring.
15. Pull up the fork assembly (1) slowly and
install the fork damper assembly (4) into the
outer tube.
(1) fork assembly (12) O-ring
(4) fork damper assembly
16. Insert both fork legs into the fork clamps.
Tighten the fork bridge lower pinch bolts (13)
to the specified torque:
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
(16) outer tube (17) top bridge
19. Tighten the fork bride lower pinch bolts (13)
to the specified torque:
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
20. Tighten the fork bridge upper pinch bolts (18)
to the specified torque:
16 Ibf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Over-tightening the pinch bolts can deform the
outer tubes. Deformed outer tubes must be
replaced.
NOTICE
(13) fork bridge lower (18) fork bridge upper
pinch bolts pinch bolts
(12)
(4)
(1)
(13)
(18)
(13)
(13) fork bridge lower pinch bolts
17. Tighten the fork damper (14) to the specified
torque using the lock nut wrench (15).
Actual:
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
Torque wrench scale reading:
20 Ibf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m), using a 20 in
(50 cm) long deflecting beam type torque
wrench.
• Lock nut wrench 070MA-MEN0100
When using the lock nut wrench, use a 20 in (50
cm) long deflecting beam type torque wrench.
The lock nut wrench increases the torque
wrench’s leverage, so the torque wrench reading
will be less than the torque actually applied to the
fork damper.
(14)
(15)
(14) fork damper (15) lock nut wrench
18. For ease of releasing air pressure after the
forks are installed, loosen the fork bridge
lower pinch bolts and position the outer tubes
so that the fork air pressure release screws are
in front of the compression damping adjusters.
Align the top of the outer tube (16) with the
top surface of the top bridge (17).
(16)
(17)
Align
124 Adjustments for Competition
Front Suspension Adjustments
21. Clean the threads of the fork protector socket
bolts (19) and axle holder thoroughly.
Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
Install the fork protectors (20), fork protector
bolts.
Tighten the fork protector socket bolts to the
specified torque:
5.2 Ibf·ft (7 N·m, 0.7 kgf·m)
(21) brake caliper
(22) brake hose
(23) stay B
(24) stay A
(25) brake hose clamp bolts
(26) brake caliper mounting bolts
25. Clean the surfaces where the axle and axle
clamps contact each other.
Apply grease to each dust seal lips of the front
wheel.
Install the disc cover/collar (27) and right side
collar (28) into the wheel hub.
(20)
(19)
(19)
(19)
(29)
(30)
(19) fork protector socket bolts
(20) fork protectors
22. Align the brake caliper (21) and hose (22)
with the left fork leg, making sure that the
brake hose is not twisted. An improperly
routed brake hose may rupture and cause a
loss of braking efficiency.
23. Assemble the stay B (23), brake hose (22) and
stay A (24). Install and tighten them to the left
fork protector using the brake hose clamp
bolts (25).
24. Clean the threads of the brake caliper
mounting bolts (26) and brake caliper
thoroughly.
Apply locking agent to the bolt threads.
Install the brake caliper (21) on the slider and
tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to the
specified torque:
22 Ibf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
(21)
(23)
(22)
(24) (25)
(26)
(27) disc cover/collar (28) right side collar
26. Install the front wheel between the fork legs
while inserting the disc between the pads,
being careful not to damage the pads.
27. Insert the front axle shaft through the forks
and wheel hub from the right side. Make sure
that the front axle shaft is seated firmly onto
the left fork leg clamp inner surface. Tighten
the front axle nut (29) to the specified torque:
65 Ibf·ft (88 N·m, 9.0 kgf·m)
Tighten the left axle pinch bolts (30) to the
specified torque:
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
(27) (28)
(29) front axle nut
(30) left axle pinch bolts
Adjustments for Competition 125
28. Install the handlebar (31), mounting rubbers,
washers and handlebar lower holder nuts (32)
and tighten the handlebar holder nuts to the
specified torque:
32 Ibf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
(31) handlebar
(32) mounting rubbers, washers and handlebar lower
holder nuts
29. Install the number plate (page 104).
(31)
(32)
Front Suspension Adjustments
30. With the front brake applied, pump the fork
up and down several times to seat the axle and
check front brake operation.
31. While keeping the forks parallel, alternately
tighten the right axle pinch bolts (33) to the
specified torque:
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
32. Install and tighten the disc cover socket bolt
(34) to the specified torque:
10 Ibf·ft (13 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)
(34) disc cover socket bolt
33. Turn the rebound damping (35) and
compression damping (36) adjuster screws
back to their original settings.
(33)
(34)
(35) rebound damping adjuster
(36) compression damping adjuster
(36)
(35)
(33) right axle pinch bolts
To avoid damage when torquing the axle pinch
bolts, be sure the axle is seated firmly onto the
left fork leg clamp inner surface.
NOTICE
126 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustments
To decrease spring pre-load
Loosen the shock spring lock nut with the
optional pin spanners (3) and turn the adjusting
nut to increase the spring length (4). Do not
increase to more than:
9.86 in (250.5 mm)
Each turn of the adjuster changes spring length
and spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring
length/spring pre-load:
0.06 in (1.5 mm)/18.21 lbf (81 N)
Pin spanners should be used for turning the shock
spring lock nut and adjusting nut. See page 156
for optional pin spanners.
Spring pre-load length (Standard spring)
Standard:
9.82 in (249.5 mm)
Max. : 9.86 in (250.5 mm)
Min. : 9.45 in (240.0 mm)
The rear suspension can be adjusted for the
rider’s weight and riding conditions by changing
the spring pre-load and the rebound and
compression damping.
The rear suspension assembly includes a damper
unit that contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do
not attempt to disassemble, service, or dispose of
the damper; see your dealer. The instructions
found in this owner ’s manual are limited to
adjustments of the shock assembly only.
Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in
an explosion, causing serious injury.
Service or disposal should only be done by your
dealer or a qualified mechanic, equipped with the
proper tools, safety equipment and an official
Honda Service Manual.
If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle
break-in time (about 1 hour) on it to ensure that
the suspension has worked in.
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load
Pre-load should be adjusted when the engine is
cold because it is necessary to remove the
muffler.
An optional pin spanner is available for turning
the shock spring lock nut and adjusting nut to
adjust spring pre-load.
1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent support with the rear wheel off the
ground.
2. Remove the subframe (page 36).
3. Check that the spring pre-load is adjusted to
the standard length. Adjust as necessary by
loosening the shock spring lock nut (1) and
turning the adjusting nut (2).
Each complete turn of the adjuster nut
changes the spring length by 0.06 in (1.5
mm).
4. After adjustment, hold the adjusting nut and
tighten the shock spring lock nut to the
specified torque:
21 lbf·ft (28 N·m, 2.9 kgf·m)
(1) shock spring lock nut (3) pin spanners
(2) adjusting nut (4) spring length
To increase spring pre-load
Loosen the shock spring lock nut with the
optional pin spanners (3) and turn the adjusting
nut to shorten the spring length (4). Do not
shorten to less than:
Standard (Medium) spring
(308.3 lbf/in (54 N/mm)):
9.45 in (240.0 mm)
Optional Soft spring (296.9 lbf/in (52 N/mm)):
9.41 in (239.0 mm)
Optional Stiff spring (319.8 lbf/in (56 N/mm)):
9.37 in (238.0 mm)
(4)
(1)
(2)
(3)
Adjustments for Competition 127
Rear Suspension Adjustments
(3) rebound damping adjuster
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard
position.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 10 – 14
clicks with the punch marks on the adjuster
and the rear shock absorber aligned.
Rear Suspension Damping
Compression Damping
Compression damping may be adjusted in two
stages with separate adjusters.
The high speed damping adjuster (1) is ef fective
when damping adjustment is desired for high
speed operation. The low speed damping
adjuster (2) should be used when damping
adjustment is desired at relatively low speeds.
• Both the high and low speed compression
damping can be increased by turning the
appropriate adjuster clockwise.
• Adjust the high speed compression adjuster in
1/12 turn increments.
• Be sure the low speed compression adjuster is
firmly located in a detent, and not between
positions.
(1) high speed damping adjuster
(2) low speed damping adjuster
High Speed Damping:
The high speed damping can be adjusted by
turning the hexagonal portion of the compression
adjuster.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard
setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 1/2 –
1 5/6 turns and the punch marks are aligned.
Low Speed Damping:
The low speed damping can be adjusted by
turning the center screw of the compression
adjuster.
The low speed compression adjuster has 18
positions or more.
Turning the adjuster one full turn clockwise
advances the adjuster 4 positions.
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard
setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 10 – 14
clicks and the punch marks are aligned.
Rebound Damping
The rebound damping adjuster (3) is located at
the lower end of the rear shock absorber .
It has 20 positions or more. Turning the adjuster
one full turn advances the adjuster 6 positions.
• Rebound damping can be increased by turning
the adjuster clockwise.
• Be sure that the rebound adjuster is firmly
located in a detent, and not between positions.
(1)
(2)
(3)
128 Adjustments for Competition
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Example:
Unloaded
= 23.6 in (600 mm)
– Loaded = 19.5 in (495 mm)
Race Sag = 4.1 in (105 mm)
4. Calculate the race sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the
loaded with rider
dimension (step 3) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Standard Race Sag:
4.1 in (105 mm)
Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain
the desired handling results.
Decreasing the race sag dimension (example:
3.7 in, 95 mm) improves turning ability for
tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced
straight line stability.
Increasing the race sag dimension (example:
4.5 in, 115 mm) may improve stability on
faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce
turning performance slightly and may upset
the balance between the front and rear
suspension, producing a harsher ride. This
will happen if the adjustment shifts the
effective wheel travel toward the more
progressive end of its range.
Rear Suspension Race Sag
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very
important for competition use.
Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel
travel used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride,
with you on the seat. As a general rule of thumb,
the race sag dimension should be about one-third
of the maximum travel.
On your CRF, ride height is changed by
adjusting the rear suspension spring pre-load.
Spring Pre-load & Race Sag
Adjustment
The following adjustment procedure establishes
the correct starting point for any suspension
tuning — the proper rear suspension spring pre-
load adjustment for your specific needs.
Your CRF should be at normal racing weight,
including fuel, oil and coolant. You should be
wearing all your normal protective apparel. You
will need two helpers.
To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary
to measure between two fixed points — from the
center of the rear fender mounting bolt to the
center of the chain adjuster lock nut as illustrated
here — for three different situations:
3. Measure the
loaded with rider dimension.
Remove the workstand. With two helpers
available, sit as far forward as possible on
your CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel.
Ask one helper to steady your CRF perfectly
upright so you can put both feet on the pegs.
Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of
times to help the suspension overcome any
situation and settle to a good reference point.
UNLOADED MEASUREMENT
(without rider)
EXAMPLE: 23.6 in (600 mm)
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
LOADED MEASUREMENT
(with rider)
EXAMPLE: 19.5 in (495 mm)
REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT
unloaded: motorcycle on an optional workstand
with rear suspension fully extended, no rider.
loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with
rider.
loaded without rider: motorcycle on ground,
without rider
1. Support your CRF on an optional workstand
with the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Measure the
unloaded dimension.
Ask the other helper to measure the
loaded
with rider
dimension.
Adjustments for Competition 129
BIKE LOADED MEASUREMENT
(without rider)
EXAMPLE: 21.7 in (550 mm)
Example:
Unloaded
= 23.6 in (600 mm)
– Loaded = 21.7 in (550 mm)
Sag = 2.0 in (50 mm)
(Without Rider)
6. Calculate the
free sag dimension.
To do this, subtract the
loaded without rider
dimension (step 5) from the unloaded
dimension (step 2).
Free sag indicates the distance your rear
suspension should sag from the weight of the
sprung portion of your CRF.
With the spring pre-load set to obtain the
proper race sag, the rear suspension should
sag 0.4 to 1.0 in (10 to 25 mm).
If the rear of your CRF sags less than 0.4 in
(10 mm) from its own weight, the spring is
too stiff for your weight. It is not compressed
enough, reduce the spring pre-load or replace
the shock spring with a softer spring.
Rear Suspension Adjustments
5. Measure the loaded without rider dimension.
Do this with your CRF set at the standard race
sag.
A spring that is too stiff for your weight will not
allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration
and will pass more bumps on to you.
Spring Rates
If you are lighter or heavier than the average
rider and cannot set the proper ride height
without altering the correct spring pre-load,
consider an aftermarket rear shock spring.
A spring that is too soft for your weight forces
you to add excessive spring pre-load to get the
right race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the
motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear
wheel to unload too much in the air and top out
as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out
from light braking, or kick sideways over lips
and square-edged terrain. It may even top-out
when you dismount your CRF.
Because of the great absorption quality of the
shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you
to notice when your CRF’s suspension is
bottoming. Some riders may think the damping
or perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh. In
reality, the problem is most likely insuf ficient
spring pre-load or a spring that is too soft. Either
situation prevents utilizing the full travel.
Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension
system may bottom slightly every few minutes at
full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this
occasional bottoming may cost more in overall
suspension performance than it is worth.
130 Adjustments for Competition
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions
Soft Surface
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud,
consider increasing compression damping front
and rear.
Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping
to minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps
are usually larger, there’s more distance between
them, giving the shock more time to recover .
You may want a little bit stif fer front suspension
for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and
improve straight-line stability.
In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs
front and rear may help, especially if you are
heavier than the average rider. Your CRF may be
under-sprung because of the added weight of the
clinging mud. This additional weight may
compress the suspension too much and affect
traction.
Hard Surface
For a fast, hard track with no lar ge jumps, you
can probably run the same spring as normal, but
run softer damping both ways-compression and
rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the
wheel will follow the rough ground and small
bumps much better, and you will hook up better.
With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns
very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground
quickly enough after each bump. The result is a
loss of traction and slower lap times.
Adjustments for Competition 131
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF , using the methods described on pages 1 12 – 130. Remember to make all adjustments in
one-click or 1/12 turn increments. Test ride after each adjustment.
Front Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Damping
Hard-surfaced track
Sand track
Mud track
Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Adjust to a stiffer position.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer position.
Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
Soft
suspension
Symptom
Initial travel too soft:
• Steering is too quick.
• Front end darts while cornering or riding in a straight line.
Middle travel too soft:
• Front end dives when cornering.
Final travel too soft:
• Bottoms on landings.
• Bottoms on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
Entire travel too soft:
• Front end shakes.
• Fork bottoms over any type of terrain.
Action
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Test stiffer rebound damping in one-click increments.
If suspension isn’t stiff in initial travel:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial travel becomes stiff because of the above adjustment:
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If final travel is soft:
– Increase the fork oil capacity in increments of 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Increase rebound damping in one-click increments.
132 Adjustments for Competition
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Stiff
suspension
Symptom
Initial travel too stiff:
•
Stiff on small bumps while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
• Stiff on small cornering bumps.
• Front end wanders while riding at full throttle in a straight line.
Action
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Check for dirt in the dust seals. Check the fork oil for any contamination.
If the front end dives while cornering after the above adjustment:
Reduce the rebound damping in one click increments.
Middle travel too stiff:
• Stiff on bumps when cornering.
• Front end wanders when cornering.
• Stiff suspension on bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• While braking, front end dives during initial travel, then feels stiff.
Final travel too stiff:
• Doesn’t bottom on landings, but feels stiff.
• Stiff on large bumps, especially downhill bumps.
• Stiff on large bumps when cornering.
Entire travel too stiff:
• Stiff suspension on any type of terrain.
If initial travel isn’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If initial and middle travel is stiff:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
If final travel is still stiff after the above adjustment, or
If initial and middle travel becomes stiff:
– Install an optional medium or soft spring.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If the entire travel feels stiff after the above adjustment:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the
desired initial travel compression damping is obtained.
– Lower the oil capacity by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Lower the oil capacity by 0.2 US oz (5 cm
3
).
Adjustments for Competition 133
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines
Rear Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track
Symptoms and Adjustment
• Always begin with the standard settings.
• Turn the low speed compression and rebound adjusters in one-click increments, and the high speed compression adjuster in 1/12 turn increments at a time. Adjusting two or
more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to pass over the best adjustment. Test ride after each adjustment.
• If, after setting, the suspension feels unusual, find the corresponding symptom in the table and test stiffer or softer compression and/or rebound damping adjustments until
the correct settings are obtained as described.
Hard-surfaced track
Sand track
Mud track
Begin with the standard settings. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.
Lower the rear end (to improve front wheel stability) by increasing Race Sag (reduce spring pre-load).
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster and, especially, rebound damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Increase standard Race Sag (+0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).
Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Adjust the compression and rebound damping adjusters to stiffer settings.
– Install an optional stiff spring.
– Reduce standard Race Sag (–0.2 to –0.4 in/–5 to –10 mm).
Stiff suspension
Soft suspension
Suspension bottoms
Symptom
Suspension feels stiff on small
bumps
Suspension feels stiff on large
bumps
Entire travel too stiff
Entire travel too soft
Rear end sways
Suspension bottoms at landing
after jumping
Suspension bottoms after landing
Suspension bottoms after end of
continuous bumps
Action
1. Test softer low speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
1. Test softer high speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
1. Test softer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment simultaneously.
2. If it still feels stiff, replace the spring with a softer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to
softer settings.
1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
2. If it still feels soft, replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to
stiffer setting.
1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment to stiffer settings
simultaneously.
1. Test stiffer high speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a
stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.
1. Test stiffer low speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a
stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.
1. Test softer rebound dumping adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and softer rebound damping
adjustment, and replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.
Tuning Tips
134 Adjustments for Competition
An optional PGM-FI setting tool can change the
ignition timing and amount of the fuel injection
(page 157).
Be sure to observe the PGM-FI setting by
checking the spark plug.
Spark Plug Reading
Refer to Spark Plug on page 67.
The following procedure is recommended. You
may not get an accurate reading if you simply
turn off the engine and pull the plug for
inspection.
Use a new spark plug. Inspect the plug before
installing it.
Using spark plugs with an improper heat range
or incorrect reach can cause engine damage.
Ride for 10 – 15 minutes before taking a plug
reading. A new plug will not color immediately.
Before removing the spark plug, clean the spark
plug area thoroughly to prevent dirt from
entering the cylinder.
To obtain an accurate reading of a new spark
plug:
1. Accelerate at full throttle on a straight.
2. Depress and hold the engine stop button and
pull the clutch lever in.
3. Coast to a stop.
4. Remove the spark plug.
5. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator (1) around the
center electrode (2) should appear clean and
colorless with a gray ring around the center
electrode where it exits the porcelain.
Light gray or white color streaks the porcelain
insulator and center electrode indicate lean
air-fuel mixture. Wet or black sooty streaks
on the porcelain indicate rich air-fuel mixture.
NOTICE
Condition
Normal
Overheating
(Lean)
Wet
(Rich)
Spark Plug Appearance
Dark brown to light tan
color with dry electrode
Light gray or white color
Wet or sooty
Mixture
correct
lean
rich
An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may
be damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads
may be damaged.
NOTICE
(1) porcelain insulator (2) center electrode
Spark Plug Coloring Guidelines
Remember that in addition to improper air-fuel
mixture:
• A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in
the inlet tract or exhaust system, the passage
of too much air because of the use of the
wrong air cleaner, use of a less-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system.
• A rich condition can be caused by a plugged
or dirty air cleaner, use of a more-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system, or excessive oil
on the air cleaner.
Excessive smoking will occur.
(2)
(1)
Steering Damper Adjustment
Adjustments for Competition 135
The steering damper can be adjusted for riding
conditions by using following method:
•
Damping – Turning the steering damper
adjuster adjusts how quickly the steering
damper compress or extend.
Steering Damper Damping
The steering damper adjuster (1) has 13 positions
or more. Turning the adjuster one full turn
clockwise advances the adjuster six positions. To
adjust the adjuster to the standard setting,
proceed as follows:
Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
The adjuster is set in the standard position when
the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 9 – 12
clicks.
Damping can be increased by turning the adjuster
clockwise.
Always start with full hard when adjusting
damping.
Do not turn the adjuster more than the given
positions or the adjuster may be damaged.
Be sure that the steering damper adjuster is
firmly located in a detent, and not between
positions.
NOTICE
(1) steering damper adjuster
(1)
Steering Damper Adjustment Guidelines
Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF , using the methods described on this page.
Symptoms and Adjustment
• Always begin with the standard settings.
• Turn the steering damper adjuster in one-click increments at a time. Adjusting two or more clicks at a time may cause you to p ass over the best adjustment.
Test ride after each adjustment.
136 Adjustments for Competition
Symptom
Steering is wobbling on large bumps Adjust the steering damper adjuster to a stiffer setting.
Steering is wobbling on a sand track Adjust the steering damper adjuster to a stiffer setting.
Steering is heavy when cornering Adjust the steering damper adjuster to a softer setting.
Action
Adjustments for Competition 137
Chassis Adjustments
The following suggestions may improve a
specific concern. Subtle changes in overall
handling may also be noted.
Rear End
If you have a problem with rear wheel traction,
raise the rear end of your CRF by increasing the
rear suspension spring pre-load. Instead of
running 4.1 in (105 mm) of sag, you can run 3.7 in
(95 mm) so the rear of the motorcycle will sit a
little higher. This should produce more traction
because of the change to the swingarm and
location of your CRF’s center of gravity.
If you have a problem with the steering head
shaking when you use the front brake hard or if
your CRF wants to turn too quickly, lower the
rear of the motorcycle by reducing the rear
suspension spring pre-load. This will increase
fork rake and trail and should improve stability in
a straight line. The effective suspension travel
will be transferred toward the firmer end of
wheel travel.
Keep the race sag adjustment (page 128) in the
3.7 – 4.5 in (95 – 115 mm) range.
Fork Height/Angle
The position of the fork tube in the clamp is not
adjustable. Align the top of the outer tube (not
the top of the fork cap) with the top of the top
bridge.
Standard Position
The standard position (1) align the top of the
outer tube (2) (not the top of the fork cap) with
the top of the top bridge (3).
Wheelbase
Adjusting your CRF’s wheelbase can offer subtle
changes in overall handling. You may adjust
wheelbase by adding or removing links on the
drive chain. If you change the wheelbase, be
sure to recheck race sag and adjust, if necessary .
In the past, a general rule was lengthen the
wheelbase to add straight line stability, shorten
the wheelbase to improve turning. However, we
suggest you do not lengthen the wheelbase of
your CRF unless you are racing on a track with
more fast sections than normal.
As a general recommendation, keep the
wheelbase as short as possible. This positions
the wheels closer together, improves turning
response, increases weighting (traction) on the
rear wheel, and lightens weighting on the front
wheel.
With your CRF, you will probably find that the
standard setting or a shorter wheelbase will of fer
more overall benefits.
(2)
(1)
(3)
(1) standard position
0 in (0 mm)
(2) top of outer tube
(3) top bridge
138 Adjustments for Competition
Gearing
You can “adjust” the power delivery of the
standard engine to suit track conditions by
changing gearing. This allows you to utilize a
different portion of the engine’s power range at a
given throttle setting. New gearing may provide
the change you are looking for without the need
to consider further modifications.
The portion of your engine’s power range you
use can be adjusted by changing the final drive
ratio with different sized driven sprockets.
Gearing changes allow you to more closely
match the type of terrain and the available
traction. Normally, a change of one tooth on the
driven sprocket will be sufficient.
There is a choice of both higher and lower final
drive ratios with two optional driven sprockets.
Like the optional springs, these sprockets are
listed in the Optional Parts List section of this
manual (page 156).
Unless you have the required mechanical
know-how, tools, and an official Honda Service
Manual, sprocket changing should be done by
your dealer.
Higher Gearing (less driven sprocket teeth)
• increases top speed in each gear (provided the
engine will pull the higher gearing)
• reduces frequency of shifting (wider gear
ratios)
• reduces engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may allow better rear
wheel traction on slippery or loose terrain)
However:
• the engine may not pull the higher gearing
• the spacing between gears may be too wide
• engine rpm may be too low
Lower Gearing (more driven sprocket teeth)
• decrease top speed in each gear
• increases frequency of shifting (narrower gear
ratios)
• increases engine rpm at a given throttle
setting or ground speed (which may provide
more power-to-the-ground on good traction
surfaces)
However:
• spacing between gears may be too narrow
• engine rpm may be too high
Some tracks may be watered heavily prior to the
first race, then lightly or not at all during the day .
This results in a track surface that is slippery
during the first few races, then changes from
good to great and back to good and possibly ends
the day with a slick rock-hard consistency.
Ideally, your gearing should be adjusted to suit
all these conditions.
• Wet and slippery or sandy conditions: use a
higher gear (less teeth) to keep engine rpm
down, and avoid unwanted wheelspin. The
engine may bog in certain corners so you ’ll
need to slip the clutch to compensate;
downshifting may be too drastic a change in
speed.
• Average conditions: use the standard sprocket.
• Hard (but not slippery) track conditions: use
lower gearing (more teeth) to keep the engine
rpm high where the engine produces the most
power. This may require an extra upshift on
certain sections or perhaps you can just rev it
out a bit longer.
For tight tracks, consider lower gearing to avoid
having to slip the clutch frequently. Repeated
fanning or pulling of the clutch lever in a turn to
raise engine rpm may eventually damage the
clutch system.
A gearing change may help for riding in sand,
where you want to keep the front end light so it
can float from the peak of one sand whoop to the
next. Generally, with higher gearing, it is easier
to maintain that perfect attitude (maximum rear
wheel traction and a light front end) because you
remain in the powerband longer in each gear .
The higher gearing allows you to steer more
efficiently with throttle control and body English.
If you are riding a track with sections where you
choose to over-rev the engine temporarily rather
than shifting up, higher gearing might help.
Sometimes you have to sacrifice performance on
one section of the track to gain a better overall
time. Your goal is the fastest overall lap time,
even if the cost is some sections where the
gearing feels wrong.
If you decide to try a gearing change, have
someone check your times with a stopwatch
(before and after the change) to get an accurate
appraisal of the change. “Seat-of-the-pants”
feelings can’t be trusted. Eliminating wheelspin
with a gearing change can make you feel like
you’re going slower when, in reality, you’ve
decreased your time by increasing your speed
with better traction.
These gearing recommendations should be
evaluated by considering your ability, your riding
style, and the track.
Adjustments for Competition 139
Tire Selection for Track Conditions
Choosing the correct tire tread pattern and rubber
compound can affect your placing in competition.
The tires on your CRF offer a “happy medium”
for the variety of soil conditions the majority of
riders are likely to encounter.
Experienced competitors often switch to tires
developed for specific terrain conditions. If you
do switch, stay with the factory recommended
sizes. Other tires may affect handling or
acceleration.
Be aware that tire sizes (width and aspect ratio)
do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer or
even among tires made by the same
manufacturer. Variations in tires, especially the
sidewall profile, can change the attitude of your
CRF and its handling. Tire variations that raise
or lower the rear of your CRF have a more
significant effect on handling than variations in
front tires which, generally, don’t vary as much.
Often, you can see or feel the change in tire size.
Another way to check is to measure the rolling
circumference of the old and new tires. A higher
profile tire will have a larger rolling
circumference.
If you do switch to tires designed for special
terrain use, remember they will be less
acceptable in other circumstances. For example,
an aggressive mud tire will give excellent grip on
wet, loamy terrain, but less impressive grip on a
hard surface.
If you choose a tire with a sticky compound for
added traction, remember that it may transfer
additional loads to the transmission because it
grips so well, especially when riding in situations
that normally place unusual demands on the
transmission.
Complete consumer information can be obtained
from the various tire manufacturer
representatives and dealers.
Some general recommendations for specific
terrain follow:
Hard, Slick Soil
Use tires with many relatively short knobs that
are close together in order to obtain the lar gest
possible contact patch on the surface. The rubber
compound needs to be softer for hard ground in
order to hook up, but not so soft that the knobs
roll over easily and affect holding a straight line.
These tires tend to wear more quickly than
standard tires because of the combination of soft
rubber and hard terrain.
Muddy Soil
Use a more open tread pattern to avoid clogging.
For these conditions, the relatively long knobs
will probably be made from a harder rubber
compound to reduce any tendency to bend back
under acceleration or wear quickly.
Loose, Sandy Soil
Use a tire that is similar in construction to those
needed for tacky soil and mud, but with a few
more knobs.
140 Adjustments for Competition
Personal Fit Adjustments
The following suggestions may make your ride
both more comfortable and more responsive to
your control input.
Control Positioning
• Position the control levers so that you can use
them comfortably when seated and standing.
• Adjust the mounting bolt torque of the clutch
and front brake lever assemblies so that they
can rotate on the handlebar in a fall. If an
assembly does not rotate, it may bend or
break a control lever. Make sure that the
bolts are torqued securely enough to prevent
slippage during normal operation.
Apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent to
the threads of these bolts prior to adjustment to
help ensure the correct torque is retained.
Tighten the top bolts first.
(1) control lever mounting bolts
As an alternative, consider wrapping the
handlebar area under the control assemblies with
Teflon tape. Then tighten the assemblies to their
normal torque. Upon impact, the fully-tightened
assemblies should rotate on the Teflon tape.
• Position the shift lever and rear brake pedal so
they are close to your boot for rapid access,
but not so close that either is depressed when
sitting or standing comfortably on your CRF.
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape
• Position the handlebar so that both gripping
the bar and operating the controls is
comfortable while both seated and standing,
while riding straight ahead and turning.
Tighten the forward handlebar upper holder
bolts first.
• The handlebar position may be moved
forward either 0.1 in (3 mm) (using optional
handlebar lower holders) or 0.2 in (6 mm) (by
rotating the standard holders 180 degrees).
Refer to an official Honda Service Manual for
installation instructions. Be sure to check
control cable and wiring harness routing after
the adjustment.
• Chamfer the edges to remove burrs and other
irregularities or roughness after sawing the
handlebar.
• An alternate handlebar shape, through varying
rise or rearward sweep dimensions, will
provide further adjustment to riding position
and may better suit your particular body size
or riding style. Each of the ergonomic
dimensions of the machine were determined
to suit the greatest possible number of riders
based on an average size rider.
(1)
(1)
• Handlebar width can be trimmed with a
hacksaw to better suit your particular shoulder
width and riding preference. Think this
through carefully and cut off just a small
amount at a time from both sides equally. It is
obviously much easier to make the handlebar
narrower than it is to add material.
Tips 141
Tips
Here’s helpful advice on how to transport and
store your CRF, as well as three troubleshooting
flow charts.
Transporting Your Motorcycle .........................142
Storing Your Honda..........................................143
Preparation for Storage ................................143
Removal from Storage .................................143
You & the Environment ...................................144
Troubleshooting................................................145
Transporting Your Motorcycle
142 Tips
If you use a truck or motorcycle trailer to
transport your CRF, we recommend that you
follow these guidelines:
• Use a loading ramp.
• Relieve the fuel pressure (page 41) and drain
the fuel from the fuel tank into an approved
gasoline container.
• Secure the motorcycle in an upright position,
using motorcycle tie-down straps. Avoid
using rope, which can loosen and allow the
motorcycle to fall over.
To secure your CRF, brace the front wheel
against the front of the truck bed or trailer rail.
Attach the lower ends of two straps to the tie-down
hooks on your CRF. Attach the upper ends of the
straps to the handlebar (one on the right side, the
other on the left), close to the fork.
Check that the tie-down straps do not contact any
control cables or electrical wiring.
Tighten both straps until the front suspension is
compressed about half-way. Too much pressure
is unnecessary and could damage the fork seals.
Use another tie-down strap to keep the rear of the
motorcycle from moving.
We recommend that you do not transport your
CRF on its side. This can damage the
motorcycle, and leaking gasoline could be a
hazard.
Storing Your Honda
Tips 143
If you won’t be riding for an extended period,
such as during the winter, thoroughly inspect
your CRF and correct any problem before storing
it. That way, needed repairs won’t be forgotten
and it will be easier to get your CRF running
again.
To reduce or prevent deterioration that can occur
during storage, also follow the following
procedures.
Preparation for Storage
1. Completely clean all parts of your CRF. If
your CRF has been exposed to sea air or salt
water, wash it down with fresh water and
wipe dry.
2. Change the engine oil and filter (page 50).
3. Change the transmission oil (page 53).
4. Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain bolt
and sealing washer (1) at the water pump cover
(2) to drain coolant.
After the coolant has been completely
drained, reinstall the drain bolt with a new
sealing washer and radiator cap.
Tighten the drain bolt to the specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
(1) coolant drain bolt and washer
(2) water pump cover
5. Lubricate the drive chain.
6. Relieve the fuel pressure (page 41) and drain
the fuel from the fuel tank into an approved
gasoline container.
7. Inflate the tires to their recommended
pressures.
8. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or
equivalent to raise both tires off the ground.
9. Stuff a rag into the muffler outlet. Then tie a
plastic bag over the end of the muf fler to
prevent moisture from entering.
10. Store your CRF in an unheated area, free of
dampness, away from sunlight, with a
minimum of daily temperature variation.
11. Cover your CRF with a porous material.
Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing,
coated materials that restrict air flow and
allow heat and moisture to accumulate.
Removal from Storage
1. Uncover and clean your CRF.
Change the engine and transmission oil if
more than 4 months have passed since the
start of storage.
2. Uncover the end of the muffler and remove
the rag from the muffler outlet.
3. Fill the fuel tank with the recommended fuel
(page 40) and increase the fuel pressure
(page 48).
4. Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
(page 54) slowly into the radiator fill hole up
to the filler neck.
Capacity:
1.12 US qt (1.06R)
after disassembly
1.10 US qt (1.04R)
after draining
Lean your CRF slightly right and left several
times to bleed trapped air in the cooling
system.
If the coolant level lowers, add coolant and
repeat the above procedure.
Install the radiator cap securely.
5. Perform all maintenance checks (page 13).
(1)
(2)
You & the Environment
144 Tips
Owning and riding a motorcycle can be
enjoyable, but you must do your part to protect
nature. When you show respect for the land,
wildlife, and other people, you also help preserve
the sport of off road riding.
Following are tips on how you can be an
environmentally responsible motorcycle owner.
•
Choose Sensible Cleaners. Use a
biodegradable detergent when you wash your
CRF. Avoid aerosol spray cleaners that
contain chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) which
damage the atmosphere’s protective ozone
layer. Don’t throw cleaning solvents away;
see the following guidelines for proper
disposal.
•
Recycle Wastes. It’s illegal and thoughtless to
put used engine oil in the trash, down a drain,
or on the ground. Used oil, gasoline, coolant,
and cleaning solvents contain poisons that can
hurt refuse workers and contaminate our
drinking water, lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Before changing your oil, make sure you have
the proper containers. Put oil and other toxic
wastes in separate sealed containers and take
them to a recycling center. Call your local or
state office of public works or environmental
services to find a recycling center in your area
and get instructions on how to dispose of non
recyclable wastes.
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.
NOTICE
Troubleshooting
Tips 145
The items that are serviceable using this Manual
are followed by the page number reference in
parenthesis. The items that require use of an
official Honda Service Manual are followed by
an asterisk (*).
ENGINE DOES NOT START OR IS HARD TO START
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
6. Start by following
normal starting
procedure
ENGINE STARTS
BUT SOON
STOPS
2. Try spark test
*
GOOD SPARK
WEAK OR NO
SPARK
INCORRECT
5. Test cylinder
compression
*
CORRECT
LOW
1. Check the spark plug
condition (P.67)
CORRECT
INCORRECT
3. Check the PGM-FI
system (P.7)
CORRECT
INCORRECT
4. Check the fuel
pump operation
and inspect the fuel
flow
*
CORRECT
• Incorrect spark plug
heat range
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Dirty air cleaner element
• Faulty spark plug (P.67)
• Fouled spark plug (P.67)
• Faulty ECM
*
• Broken or shorted spark
plug wire
• Faulty alternator
*
• Faulty ignition coil
*
• Faulty engine stop
button
*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty CKP sensor
*
• Faulty regulator/rectifier
*
• Faulty condenser
*
• Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
• Faulty fuel pump
*
• Clogged fuel pump
filter (P.44)
• Valve clearance too
small
• Valve stuck open
• Worn cylinder and piston
ring
*
• Damaged cylinder head
gasket
• Improper valve timing
*
• Seized valve
• Insulator leaking
• Improper ignition timing
(Faulty ECM or CKP
sensor)
*
• Fast idle knob stuck
open or damaged
• Fuel contaminated
ENGINE LACKS POWER
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the wheel
spin smoothly
CORRECT
INCORRECT
• Brake dragging
• Worn or damaged
wheel bearings
• Bent axle shaft
• Drive chain too tight
• Faulty valve core
• Punctured tire
• Clutch slipping
• Improperly adjusted
clutch lever freeplay
(p.62)
• Worn clutch discs/plates
(p.65)
• Warped clutch
discs/plates (p.65)
• Weak clutch springs
(p.65)
• Sticking clutch lifter
• Additive in engine oil
• Dirty air cleaner element
• Clogged muffler
• Fast idle knob stuck
open or damaged
• Restricted fuel fill cap
breather tube
• Restricted fuel flow
• Worn piston and
cylinder
*
• Use of poor quality fuel
• Excessive carbon build-
up in combustion
chamber
• Ignition timing too
advance (Faulty ECM)
*
• Lean fuel mixture
• Faulty ECM
*
• Faulty CKP sensor
*
2. Check the tire
pressure (p.96)
CORRECT
INCORRECT
NO
3. Check the engine
speed change
accordingly when
clutch is engaged
*
GOOD
NO GOOD
4. Check the engine
speed increase
GOOD
NO GOOD
6. Check the
ignition timing
*
CORRECT
INCORRECT
5. Check the engine
knocking when
accelerate or run
the engine at high
speed
YES
7. Test cylinder
compression
*
CORRECT
LOW
• Valve clearance too
small
• Valve stuck open
• Worn cylinder and
piston ring
*
• Damaged cylinder head
gasket
• Improper valve timing
*
• Faulty decompressor
system
*
• Faulty PGM-FI system
(p.9)
• Faulty fuel pump unit
*
• Clogged fuel pump
filter (P.44)
• Incorrect spark plug
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Dirty air cleaner
element
• Engine oil level too high
• Engine oil level too low
• Contaminated engine
oil
• Faulty oil pump
*
• Faulty pressure relief
valve
*
• Clogged oil passage
*
• Clogged oil strainer
screen
*
8. Check the PGM-FI
system (p.7)
INCORRECT
CORRECT
10. Check the spark
plug condition
(p.67)
INCORRECT
CORRECT
11. Check the engine
oil level and
condition (p.50)
INCORRECT
CORRECT
12. Remove the
cylinder head
cover and inspect
lubrication
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
9. Check the fuel
pump operation
and inspect the fuel
flow
*
CORRECT
Troubleshooting
146 Tips
POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW AND IDLE SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the spark
plug condition
(P.67)
CORRECT
INCORRECT
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
6. Try spark test
*
• Incorrect spark plug
heat range
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Plug not serviced
frequently enough
• Faulty ECM
*
• Faulty CKP sensor
*
• Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
• Faulty fuel pump unit
*
• Clogged fuel pump
filter (P.44)
• Loose insulator
• Damaged insulator
• Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.67)
• Faulty ECM
*
• Faulty alternator
*
• Faulty ignition coil
*
• Broken or shorted
spark plug wire.
• Faulty CKP sensor
*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty engine stop
button
*
• Faulty regulator/rectifier
*
• Faulty condenser
*
2. Check the ignition
timing
*
CORRECT
INCORRECT
3. Check the PGM-FI
system (P.7)
CORRECT
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
5. Check the insulator
for leaks
CORRECT
INCORRECT
4. Check the fuel
pump operation
and inspect the fuel
flow
*
CORRECT
POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Check the ignition
timing
*
CORRECT
INCORRECT
2. Remove the air
cleaner (P.56)
AIR CLEANER
NOT DIRTY
DIRTY
WEAK OR
INTERMITTENT
SPARK
GOOD SPARK
6. Try spark test
*
• Faulty ECM
*
• Faulty CKP sensor
*
• Not cleaned frequently
enough
• Faulty PGM-FI system
(P.9)
• Faulty fuel pump unit
*
• Clogged fuel pump
filter (P.44)
• Camshaft not installed
properly (P.73)
• Faulty, carbon or wet
fouled spark plug (P.67)
• Faulty ECM
*
• Faulty alternator
*
• Faulty ignition coil
*
• Broken or shorted
spark plug wire.
• Faulty CKP sensor
*
• Loose or disconnected
ignition system wires
• Faulty engine stop
button
*
• Faulty regulator/rectifier
*
• Faulty condenser
*
• Faulty valve springs
*
• Faulty camshaft
*
5. Check the valve
timing
CORRECT
INCORRECT
7. Check the valve
springs
*
GOOD
WEAR
8. Remove and
inspect the cam
lobe height
*
CORRECT
WORN
3. Check the PGM-FI
system (P.7)
CORRECT
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
4. Check the fuel
pump operation
and inspect the fuel
flow
*
CORRECT
POOR HANDLING
Steering is heavy
• Steering stem adjusting nut too tight*
• Damaged steering head bearings
• Faulty HPSD*
Either wheel is wobbling
• Excessive wheel bearing play
• Bent rim
• Improperly installed wheel hub
• Excessively worn swingarm pivot bearings
• Bent frame
The motorcycle pulls to one side
• Front and rear wheels not aligned
• Bent fork
• Bent swingarm
• Bent axle shaft
• Bent frame
Technical Information
Technical Information 147
This section contains dimensions, capacities, and
other technical data.
Vehicle Identification .......................................148
Serial Numbers ...........................................148
Specifications ...................................................149
Torque Specifications .......................................150
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners .................................150
Oxygenated Fuels .............................................153
Competition Logbook ......................................154
Optional Parts List ...........................................156
Spare Parts & Equipment .................................157
Spare Parts ..................................................157
General Tools..............................................157
Honda Special Tools ...................................157
Chemical Products ......................................157
Other Products ............................................157
Wiring Diagram................................................158
Vehicle Identification
148 Technical Information
Serial Numbers
The VIN and engine serial number are required
when you register your CRF. They may also be
required when ordering replacement parts. You
may record these numbers in the Quick
Reference section at the rear of this manual.
The VIN (vehicle identification number) (1) is
stamped on the right side of the steering head.
(1) VIN
The engine number (2) is stamped on the left
crankcase.
(2) engine number
(2)
Specifications
Technical Information 149
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Wheelbase
Seat height
Footpeg height
Ground clearance
Item English
86.1 in
32.6 in
50.0 in
58.7 in
37.5 in
16.5 in
13.0 in
Metric
Type
Dimension
Frame
Fork oil capacity
(except fork damper)
F. suspension
R. suspension
Tire size, front
F. brake, swept area
R. brake, swept area
Fuel
Fuel tank capacity
Caster angle
Trail length
Twin tube
Telescopic fork,
travel 10.9 in (276 mm)
stroke 12.2 in (310 mm)
Pro-link,
travel 12.4 in (315 mm)
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP MX51F
Tire size, rear
Tire pressure, front (cold)
Tire pressure, rear (cold)
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
unleaded gasoline, pump
octane number of 91 or
higher
Tire type bias-ply, tube
15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm
2
)
120/80 – 19 63M
DUNLOP MX51
Single disc brake
51.8 in
2
(334.5 cm
2
)
Single disc brake
60.6 in
2
(391.1 cm
2
)
27˚5’
1.51 US gal
4.6 in
11.8 US oz 350 cm
3
116 mm
5.7R
Item English
3.78 x 2.44 in
Cylinder arrangement
Bore and stroke
Displacement
Compression ratio
Engine oil capacity
after draining
after draining and
oil filter change
after disassembly
after disassembly
Transmission oil
capacity
after draining
Identification number
First idle speed
GQ25A
1,800 ± 100 rpm
Liquid cooled, 4-stroke
Single 6˚30’ inclined from
vertical
Type
Metric
0.58R
0.62R
0.77R
0.59R
0.67R
96.0 x 62.1
mm
Engine
Throttle body
Cooling capacity
after draining
after disassembly
1.10 US qt
1.12 US qt
1.04R
1.06R
Cooling system
12.0 : 1
Valve clearance
(cold)
Intake:
Exhaust:
0.006 ± 0.001 in
(0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
0.011 ± 0.001 in
(0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
Clutch type
Transmission
Primary reduction
Gear ratio I
Gear ratio II
Gear ratio III
Gear ratio IV
Gear ratio V
Final reduction
Item English Metric
Drive train
Electrical
Wet, multi-plate type
5-speed, constant mesh
2.739
1.800
1.470
1.235
1.050
0.909
3.692
NGK
NGK
Gear shift pattern
Ignition
Starting system
Spark plug :
Standard
For extended high
speed riding
ECM
Kickstarter
Spark plug gap 0.031 – 0.035 in
(0.8 – 0.9 mm)
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
SILMAR9A-9S
SILMAR10A-9S
2,188 mm
827 mm
1,271 mm
1,492 mm
952 mm
420 mm
329 mm
27.43 cu-in 449.7 cm
3
0.61 US qt
0.66 US qt
0.81 US qt
0.62 US qt
0.71 US qt
Torque Specifications
150 Technical Information
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before every outing.
LEFT SIDE
Item
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
NOTE: 1. Apply grease to the threads.
2. Apply engine oil to the threads and seating surface
Clutch cover bolts
Water pump cover bolts
Transmission oil check
bolt
Crankshaft hole cap
Oil filter cover bolts
Cylinder head bolts
Exhaust pipe joint nuts
Drive sprocket bolt
Engine oil drain bolt
Transmission oil drain bolt
Coolant drain bolt
Water hose joint bolts
ENGINE
Torque
Remarks
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
7
7
7
9
11
7
38
15
23
12
12
7
7
10
10
10
12
15
10
51
21
31
16
16
10
10
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.2
1.5
1.0
5.2
2.1
3.2
1.6
1.6
1.0
1.0
NOTE 1
NOTE 2
NOTE 2
NOTE 2
Cylinder head cover
socket bolts
(3)
(13)
(12)
(2)
(1)
(7)
(5)
(4)
(10)
(11)
(7)
(8)
(6)
(1)
(9)
RIGHT SIDE
Torque Specifications
Technical Information 151
Item
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
Steering stem nut
Fork bridge upper pinch
bolts
Fork bridge lower pinch
bolts
Handlebar upper
holder bolts
Handlebar lower holder
nuts
Front axle nut
Axle pinch bolts
Rear axle nut
Chain adjuster lock nuts
Front engine hanger nuts
Front engine hanger
plate nuts
Lower engine hanger nut
Cylinder head hanger
bolts
Cylinder head hanger
plate bolts
Rear suspension (upper)
(lower)
Swingarm pivot nut
Fork (fork cap assembly)
(fork damper)
Rear shock link nut
Fuel pump mounting bolts
FRAME
Torque
Remarks
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
80
16
15
16
32
65
15
94
20
40
19
40
40
24
32
32
65
21
22
108
22
20
22
44
88
20
128
27
54
26
54
54
33
44
44
88
28
30
11.0
2.2
2.0
2.2
4.5
9.0
2.0
13.1
2.8
5.5
2.7
5.5
5.5
3.4
4.5
4.5
9.0
2.9
3.1
NOTE 1
NOTE 2
NOTE 1
NOTE 1
NOTE 1
1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
5. Alock bolt: replace with a new one
6. Apply molybdenum oil to the threads and flange surface
NOTES:
(shock link side:
nut width 19 mm)
Rear shock arm nuts
(swingarm side:
nut width 17 mm)
Rear shock spring lock nut
Kickstarter arm bolt
39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 6
39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 6
39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 6
21 28 2.9
28 38 3.9 NOTE 5
8 11 1.1
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
(2)
(5)
(8)
(9)
(2)
(3)
(7)
(6)
(7)
(4)
(1)
(9)
(14)
(21)
(14)
(19)
(20)(18)
(11)
(13)
(12)
(16)
(17)
(16)
(3)
(15)
(13)
(12)
(17)
(10)
Torque Specifications
152 Technical Information
Front side
Rear side
Item
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
Front brake master
cylinder holder bolts
Brake hose oil bolts
Front brake caliper
mounting bolts
Front brake disc nuts
Rear brake disc nuts
Brake pedal pivot bolt
Spokes
Rim locks
Drive chain roller
Subframe
bolts
Fork center bolt
Fork center bolt lock nut
Disc cover bolt
Fork protector socket bolts
Muffler clamp bolt
Driven sprocket nuts
Seat mounting bolts
Front brake reservoir
cap screws
Rear brake reservoir
cap bolts
Fork air pressure release
screw
Muffler mounting
A, B bolts
Steering damper mounting
bolts
Throttle cable adjuster
lock nuts
Rear master cylinder
push rod lock nut
Shroud B bolts (upper)
Side cover bolts
Left engine guard bolt/
washer
FRAME
Torque
Remarks
lbf
•
ft N
•
m kgf
•
m
7.3
25
22
12
12
27
2.7
2.7
9
9
9
24
24
36
41
21
10
5.2
15
24
19
0.7
0.7
0.9
19
19
15
3.0
4.4
3.7
7
7
9.9
34
30
16
16
36
3.7
3.7
12
12
12
33
33
49
55
29
13
7
21
32
26
1.0
1.0
1.2
26
26
20
4
5.9
5
10
10
1.0
3.5
3.1
1.6
1.6
3.7
0.4
0.4
1.2
1.2
1.2
3.4
3.4
5.0
5.6
3.0
1.3
0.7
2.1
3.3
2.7
0.1
0.1
0.1
2.7
2.7
2.0
0.4
0.6
0.5
1.0
1.0
NOTE 5
NOTE 1
NOTE 1
NOTE 5
NOTE 4
NOTE 1
NOTE 3
NOTE 5
NOTE 1
NOTE 5
1. U-nut.
3. Apply a locking agent to the threads.
4. SH bolt
5. Alock bolt: replace with a new one
NOTES:
(front)
(rear)
(upper)
(Iower)
(upper)
(Lower-left)
(Lower-right)
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
(41)
(43)
(46)
(38)
(37)
(28)
(30)
(48)
(34)
(28)
(25)
(38)
(42)
(42)
(47)
(31)
(46)
(22)
(44)
(39)
(23)
(41)
(29)
(32)(33)
(36)
(27)
(45)
(29)
(40)
(26)
(31)
(47)
(24)
(35)
(35)
Technical Information 153
Oxygenated Fuels
Some conventional gasolines are being blended
with alcohol or an ether compound. These
gasolines are collectively referred to as
oxygenated fuels. To meet clean air standards,
some areas of the United States and Canada use
oxygenated fuels to help reduce emissions.
If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is
unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating
requirement.
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm
the fuel’s contents. Some states/provinces
require this information to be posted on the
pump.
The following are the EPA-approved percentages
of oxygenates:
ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol) 10% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 10%
ethanol by volume. Gasoline containing ethanol
may be marketed under the name “Gasohol”.
MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether) 15% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 15%
MTBE by volume.
METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol) 5% by
Volume
You may use gasoline containing methanol
containing up to 5% methanol by volume as long
as it also contains cosolvents and corrosion
inhibitors to protect the fuel system. Gasoline
containing more than 5% methanol by volume
may cause starting and/or performance problems.
It may also damage metal, rubber, and plastic
parts of your fuel system.
If you notice any undesirable operating
symptoms, try another service station or switch
to another brand of gasoline.
Fuel system damage or performance problems
resulting from the use of an oxygenated fuel
containing more than the percentages of
oxygenates mentioned above are not covered
under warranty.
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
Be careful not to spill fuel when filling the fuel
tank. Wipe up any spills immediately.
Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
NOTICE
154 Technical Information
Competition Logbook
Any serious competition effort relies heavily on
the knowledge gained and compiled from
previous racing events. The best way to organize
the many bits of information is to record them in
a logbook.
Your logbook can include such information as
suspension adjustments, steering damper
adjustments, gearing, and tire selection. This
detailed information, along with your comments,
can prove valuable when you compete at the
same track or on similar terrain.
Your logbook can also tell you when
maintenance was performed and when it will be
necessary again. Your logbook also lets you
record any repairs and lets you keep track of the
running time on the engine and suspension
components.
If you choose to sell your CRF, the accurate
maintenance records in your logbook might be
the deciding deal-maker for a potential buyer.
Consider using different color pens or pencils to
record important information on specific
subjects. For example, record results in black,
steering damper setting in red, suspension/chassis
settings in blue, and gearing selections in green.
Color codes will help you identify the
information you want with a glance.
Tuning & Adjustment Records
Keep track of the settings and adjustments that
worked best at a particular location. These items
include:
• basic track conditions, altitude, and
temperature
• suspension settings
• steering damper settings
• chassis adjustments tested and selected
• gearing
• tire selection
• air pressure
Competition Records
• your placings
• thoughts to improve performance next time:
both yours and your CRF’s
• strategy notes
Maintenance Records
• regular interval maintenance
• repairs
• running time on engine
• running time on suspension components
Timekeeping
This Manual lists maintenance intervals for
every-so-many races or every-so-many hours of
running.
Because all races are not the same, the most
effective way to schedule maintenance is by the
hours you have run your CRF.
An official “guesstimate” is close enough for our
timekeeping purposes. You may choose to record
your time the same way aircraft operators do (but
without the benefit of an electrical hourmeter).
All running time is broken down into hours and
tenths of an hour (each six minutes represents
one tenth of an hour).
Racing Records
Information worth recording for this section of
your logbook may include:
• Your placing in each moto and overall
finishing position.
• Thoughts on what you could do to improve
your performance next time.
• Notes on any patterns noted in choice of
starting gate positions or in riding portions of
the course as the day progressed that may
prove helpful in future events.
• Any places on the course where you chose the
wrong line and were passed too easily.
• Notes on strategy used by your competition or
by riders in another event that are worth
remembering.
Maintenance Records
Regular maintenance items you’ll want to record
in your logbook should include:
• Dates and results of cylinder, piston and ring
examinations
• Patterns for frequency of need for
decarbonization with a particular oil
• When you last performed shock linkage and
swingarm pivot bearing maintenance
• Engine, transmission, and suspension oil
changes
• Chain, sprocket, chain guide and slider
replacements
• Coolant changes and related component
replacements
• Spark plug, brake pad and control cable
replacements
In addition, you should record any irregularities
noted in component wear so you ’ll remember to
keep a close eye on these areas in the future.
Date Running Location/Event Comments (Suspension Settings, Steering Damper Settings, Gearing, Chassis Adjustments,
Time Maintenance Performed, etc.)
(Make several photocopies of this page for future use)
Technical Information 155
Competition Logbook
156 Technical Information
Optional Parts List
FRAME Remarks
Driven sprocket
Standard
< >: Drive chain links
48 Teeth, Aluminum.
<116>
Optional 47 Teeth, Aluminum
49 Teeth, Aluminum
Drive chain
size/link
D.I.D 520DMA4/120RB
RK520TXZ/120RJ
Optional
Handlebar
lower holder
3 mm offset
no offset
TOOLS Remarks
Pin spanner A
Workstand
To adjust spring preload.
(two spanners required)
For maintenance
Air gauge For checking tire air pressure
These parts and tools may be ordered from your
authorized dealer.
FRAME
Shock spring
Standard
(Medium)
Medium
Optional
Soft
Stiff
Fork spring
Standard
(Stiff)
Optional
Soft
The standard fork spring mounted on the
motorcycle when it leaves the factory are not
marked. Before replacing the springs, be sure to
mark them so they can be distinguished from other
optional springs.
296.9 lbf/in (52 N/mm)
27.41 lbf/in (4.8 N/mm)
25.12 lbf/in (4.4 N/mm)
26.27 lbf/in (4.6 N/mm)
Yellow
paint
319.8 lbf/in (56 N/mm)
White
paint
6 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
2 scribe marks
4 scribe marks
No mark
(factory products)
or
Pink
paint
Remarks
308.3 lbf/in (54 N/mm)
Technical Information 157
Spare Parts & Equipment
There are numerous spare parts you can take to
an event to help ensure you get in a full day of
riding. In addition to the usual nuts and bolts,
consider the following:
Spare Parts
spark plugs
air cleaner (clean & oiled, sealed in a plastic bag)
chain & masterlinks
chain guide slider
chain guide
chain rollers
tire tubes (front & rear)
fenders
footpegs
fuel feed hose and retainers
fuel pump filter
number plate & side covers
handlebar
grips
levers (brake & clutch)
clutch lever handlebar mount
clutch cable
throttle assembly
throttle cable
shift lever
brake pedal
spokes (front & rear, each side)
sprockets (larger & smaller than standard)
assorted nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cotter pins
Additional Spares
fuel pump
front brake master cylinder
rear brake assembly
wheels & tires (front & rear, mounted)
clutch discs and plates
engine & transmission oil
seat
ignition components
radiator hoses
radiator shrouds (L & R)
brake hoses (front & rear)
General Tools
sockets (3/8 in drive)
screwdrivers: blade & Phillips No. 1, 2, 3
wrench, large adjustable
wrenches: open end & box
wrenches: hex (Allen)
wrench, spoke
torque wrench (metric scale, click-stop style)
pliers: standard, needle-nose, channel-lock set
hammer, plastic head
syringe with adjustable stop
tire pressure gauge
tire irons
tire pump or air tank
feeler gauge set
Vernier caliper (metric)
pressure/vacuum testing equipment
Open end wrench 9/16 in (15 mm)
Honda Special Tools
Any special tools for your CRF purchased from
your dealer.
• Tensioner stopper 070MG-0010100
• Lock Nut Wrench 070MA-MEN0100
• Spoke Wrench 07JMA-MR60100
• Spoke Wrench 070MA-KZ30100
• Piston base 07958-2500001
You can purchase a PGM-FI Setting Tool for
your CRF from your dealer.
• PGM-FI Setting Tool 06380-N1C-770
Chemical Products
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
(Engine and Transmission Oil)
KHL15-11 (KYB)
Pro Honda DOT 4 Brake Fluid
Pro Honda HP Chain Lube
Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
Pro Honda Hondabrite
Pro Honda Dielectric Grease
Pro Honda Handgrip Cement
Pro Honda Hondalock
Molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more
than 3% molybdenum disulfide additive)
Pro Honda White Lithium Grease
Multi-Purpose Grease
Rust-inhibiting oil
Cable lubricant
Pro Honda HP Coolant
Urea based multi-purpose grease designed for
high temperature, high pressure performance
(example: EXCELITE EP2 manufactured by
KYODO YUSHI, Japan or Shell Stamina EP2 or
equivalent)
Other Products
pliers-safety wire
safety wire
mechanic’s wire
duct tape
plastic tie-wraps
hose clamps
drop light
electrical tape
Scotch-Brite Hand Pad #7447 (maroon)
Teflon tape
158 Technical Information
Wiring Diagram
Consumer Information 159
Consumer Information
This section contains information about
contacting Honda and how to get an of ficial
Honda Service Manual.
Authorized Manuals .........................................160
Contacting Honda.............................................161
Your Honda Dealer...........................................162
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only) ..............163
The Service Manual used by your authorized dealer is available from your
Honda dealer or Helm, Inc (USA only, Canada: See your dealer to order
authorized manuals.)
Also available but not necessary to service your model is the Honda Common
Service Manual which explains theory of operation and basic service
information for various systems on Honda motorcycles, scooters, ATVs,
MUVs, and PWCs.
These Honda manuals are written for the professional technician, but most
mechanically-capable owners should find them helpful if they have the proper
tools and skills. Special Honda tools are necessary for some procedures.
160 Consumer Information
Authorized Manuals
Order On-Line: www.helminc.com
Order Toll Free: 1-888-CYCLE93 (1-888-292-5393)
(NOTE: For Credit Card Orders Only)
Monday - Friday 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM EST
Publication Item No. Description
61MEN73 2012 CRF450R Service Manual
61CM002 Common Service Manual
31MEN680 2012 CRF450R Owner’s Manual
Consumer Information 161
Your owner’s manual was written to cover most
of the questions you might ask about your CRF .
Any questions not answered in the owner ’s
manual can be answered by your dealer. If your
dealer doesn’t have the answer right away, they
will get it for you.
If you have a difference of opinion with your
dealer, please remember that each dealership is
independently owned and operated. That’s why
it’s important to work to resolve any dif ferences
at the dealership level.
If you wish to comment on your experiences with
your CRF or with your dealer, please send your
comments to the following address (USA only):
Motorcycle Division, American Honda Motor
Co., Inc., P.O. Box 2200, Torrance CA 90509-
2200, Mailstop: 100-4C-7B,
Telephone: (866) 784-1870.
Canada: Honda Canada Inc., Customer Relations
Dept, 180 Honda Boulevard, Markham, Ontario
L6V 0H9, telephone: (888) 946 – 6329,
facsimile: (877) 939 – 6909.
Refer to the warranty booklet that was supplied
with your vehicle.
Please include the following information in your
letter:
• name, address, and telephone number
• product model, year, and VIN
• date of purchase
• dealer name and address
We will likely ask your dealer to respond, or
possibly acknowledge your comments directly.
Contacting Honda
162 Consumer Information
Your Honda Dealer
Once you purchase your new Honda, get familiar
with the organization of your Honda dealer so
you can utilize the full range of services
available.
The service department is there to perform
regular maintenance and unexpected repairs. It
has the latest available service information from
Honda.
The parts department offers Honda Genuine
Parts, Pro Honda products, Honda Genuine
Accessories (USA only), and Honda accessories
and products (Canada only). The same quality
that went into your Honda can be found in Honda
Genuine replacement parts. You’ll also find
comparable quality in the accessories and
products available from the parts department.
Your Honda dealer can inform you about
competition events in your area. You’ll also find
that your dealer is a source of information the
Honda Rider’s Club of America (USA only).
We’re sure you’ll be as pleased with the service
your Honda dealer continues to provide after the
sale as you are with the quality and dependability
of your Honda.
Consumer Information 163
The Honda Rider’s Club (USA only)
The Honda Rider’s Club of America (HRCA)
sponsors local riding chapters at Authorized
Honda Dealerships across the country. You can
log on to the HRCA Clubhouse website for more
information at www.hrca.honda.com.
164 Index
accessories...........................................................3
adjustments,
chassis ........................................................137
control freeplay ................................59, 62, 91
for competition ...........................................111
gearing........................................................138
personal fit .................................................140
steering damper ..........................................135
suspension, front ........................................112
suspension, rear ..........................................126
suspension, track conditions ......................130
tire selection .................................................96
after competition maintenance ..........................30
air cleaner ..........................................................56
air pressure,
front suspension .........................................112
tires...............................................................96
apparel, protective ...............................................2
appearance care ...............................................109
authorized manuals..........................................160
basic operation ..................................................15
before riding ......................................................11
between motos & practice maintenance ...........30
brakes,
fluid level .....................................................92
lever, front adjustment .................................91
pad wear .......................................................94
pedal height ..................................................91
break-in guidelines ............................................19
capacity, fuel .....................................................40
care, appearance ..............................................109
chain drive .........................................................98
chassis adjustments .........................................137
cleaner, air .........................................................56
cleaning, appearance care ...............................109
clutch system, adjustment .................................62
competition logbook........................................154
consumer information .....................................159
contacting Honda ............................................161
controls ................................................................5
coolant ...............................................................54
customer service ..............................................162
cylinder system..................................................79
damping adjustments,
front ............................................................113
rear..............................................................127
steering damper ..........................................135
dealer, your Honda ..........................................162
diagram, wiring ...............................................158
drive chain .........................................................98
engine,
flooded .........................................................17
idle speed......................................................61
lacks power ................................................145
number .......................................................148
oil .................................................................49
pinging .........................................................40
starting..........................................................17
stop button....................................................18
stopping........................................................18
won’t start ..................................................145
environment, protecting ..................................144
filter,
air .................................................................56
oil .................................................................51
flooded engine, starting .....................................17
fork,
front suspension adjustment .......................112
front suspension inspection..........................87
oil recommendation......................................89
front brake lever adjustment .............................91
front suspension maintenance .........................112
fuel ....................................................................40
fuel,
line................................................................40
line replacement ...........................................41
oxygenated .................................................153
pump filter....................................................44
refueling .......................................................40
system...........................................................40
tank capacity ................................................40
F
E
D
C
B
A
Index
Index 165
Index
gap, spark plug ..................................................67
gasohol ............................................................153
gasoline..............................................................40
gearing.............................................................138
guidelines,
steering damper ..........................................136
suspension adjustment ...............................131
handlebar inspection........................................107
Honda,
contacting ...................................................161
Rider’s Club ...............................................163
service manual............................................160
your dealer..................................................162
identification, vehicle ......................................148
idle knob, fast ...............................................17,61
idle speed, engine ..............................................61
indicator,
circuit inspection ............................................8
DTC index......................................................9
MIL blink .......................................................7
inspection, pre-ride............................................13
instruments ..........................................................5
labels, safety ........................................................4
logbook, competition.......................................154
maintenance,
after competition ..........................................30
before & after competition ...........................30
between motos & practice............................30
component locations ....................................32
general competition......................................26
importance....................................................22
safety ............................................................23
schedule........................................................24
manual, service................................................160
modifications.......................................................3
oil,
engine ...........................................................49
fork ...............................................................89
transmission .................................................52
operating instructions ........................................15
operation component locations ...........................6
optional,
parts list ......................................................156
sprockets.....................................................138
oxygenated fuels..............................................153
pads, brake.........................................................94
parts, optional ..................................................156
personal fit adjustments ..................................140
pinging, engine ..................................................40
plug, spark .........................................................67
pre-load, rear suspension.................................126
pre-ride inspection.............................................13
protective apparel ................................................2
rear suspension maintenance...........................126
Rider’s Club Honda (USA only).....................163
riding,
apparel............................................................2
basic operation .............................................15
before............................................................11
important safety information..........................2
safety precautions...........................................2
safety,
a few words about .................Safety Messages
important information ....................................2
important precautions.....................................2
labels ..............................................................4
maintenance..................................................23
riding precautions.........................................16
schedule, maintenance.......................................24
seat ....................................................................33
serial numbers .................................................148
service,
customer .....................................................162
manuals ......................................................160
spare parts........................................................157
spark knock .......................................................40
spark plug,
maintenance..................................................67
reading........................................................134
specifications...................................................149
spring pre-load, rear suspension .....................126
starting,
engine ...........................................................17
troubleshooting...........................................145
steering damper,
adjustment..................................................135
guidelines ...................................................136
operation inspection...................................104
steering stem inspection ..................................107
(cont’d)
S
R
P
O
M
L
I
H
G
166 Index
Index
stopping engine .................................................18
storage .............................................................143
subframe ............................................................36
suspension,
front..............................................................87
rear................................................................88
suspension adjustment,
for track conditions ....................................130
front ............................................................112
guidelines ...................................................131
rear..............................................................126
throttle,
freeplay.........................................................59
inspection .....................................................60
tires,
air pressure ...................................................96
flat ................................................................96
selection........................................................97
tools ...............................................................157
torque specifications
engine .........................................................150
frame ...................................................151-152
transmission oil .................................................52
transporting......................................................142
troubleshooting................................................145
tubes, replacing .................................................96
tuning tips........................................................134
valve clearance ..................................................68
vehicle identification no. (VIN) ......................148
washing your motorcycle ................................109
wheels................................................................95
wiring diagram ................................................158
W
V
T
Quick Reference
Quick Reference
The following is a brief, but important collection
of information you need to know about your
CRF. You’ll also find space to record important
notes.
How To Avoid Costly Repairs
The engine of your CRF can be the most
expensive component to repair. Proper
maintenance, especially the use of the
recommended fluids and filters, prevents
premature wear and damage.
Frequent causes of costly engine repairs are:
• Transmission oil & engine oil: insuf ficient
quantity, improper oil.
• Air cleaner: dirty, leaking because of
improper installation (poor seal)
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
The maintenance schedule (page 25) lists service frequencies for:
each race or about 2.5 hours,
every 3 races or about 7.5 hours, every 6 races or about 15.0 hours,
every 9 races or about 22.5 hours and every 12 races or about 30.0 hours
Check the items listed on the Pre-ride Inspection checklist each time before you ride
(page 13):
unleaded gasoline, pump octane number of 91 or higher
tank: 1.51 US gal (5.7R)
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
Maintenance
Pre-ride Inspection
Fuel/Tank Capacity
Engine oil
Transmission oil
Record important information here:
VIN
Engine No.
Owner’s:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Dealer’s:
Name
Address
City/State
Phone
Service Mgr.
Front: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0kgf/cm
2
)
Rear: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0kgf/cm
2
)
standard: SILMAR9A-9S (NGK)
optional: SILMAR10A-9S (NGK)
D.I.D 520DMA4/116RB
Tires
Tire Pressure (cold)
Spark Plug
ethylene glycol antifreeze (silicate-free) for aluminum engines in 50/50 solution with
Pro Honda HP Coolant or an equivalent distilled water.
Coolant
RK 520TXZ/116RJ
Drive Chain Size/Link
Front
80/100 – 21 51M
DUNLOP MX51F
bias-ply, tube
Rear
120/80 – 19 63M
DUNLOP MX51
Type
