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72
TRUE RESIDENTIAL
®
CAUTION: DO NOT USE ANY STEEL WOOL,
ABRASIVE OR CHLORINE BASED PRODUCTS TO
CLEAN STAINLESS STEEL SURFACES.
STAINLESS STEEL OPPONENTS
There are three basic things which can break down
your stainless steel’s passivity layer and allow
corrosion to rear its ugly head.
1. Scratches from wire brushes, scrapers, and steel
pads are just a few examples of items that can be
abrasive to stainless steel’s surface.
2. Deposits left on your stainless steel can leave
spots. You may have hard or soft water depending
on what part of the country you live in. Hard water
can leave spots. Hard water that is heated can
leave deposits if left to sit too long. These deposits
can cause the passive layer to break down and
rust your stainless steel.
All deposits left from food prep or service should
be removed as soon as possible.
3. Chlorides are present in table salt, food, and
water. Household and industrial cleaners are the
worst type of chlorides
to use.
RECOMMENDED CLEANERS FOR CERTAIN SITUATIONS /
ENVIRONMENTS OF STAINLESS STEEL
A. Soap, ammonia and detergent medallion applied
with a cloth or sponge can be used for routine
cleaning.
B. Arcal 20, Lac-O-Nu Ecoshine applied provides
barrier film for fingerprints and smears.
C. Cameo, Talc, Zud First Impression is applied by
rubbing in the direction of the polished lines for
stubborn stains and discoloring.
D. Easy-off and De-Grease It oven aid are excellent
for removals on all finishes for grease-fatty acids,
blood and burnt-on foods.
E. Any good commercial detergent can be applied
with a sponge or cloth to remove grease and oil.
F. Benefit, Super Sheen, Sheila Shine are good for
restoration / passivation.
NOTE: THE USE OF STAINLESS STEEL
CLEANERS OR OTHER SUCH SOLVENTS IS NOT
RECOMMENDED ON PLASTIC PARTS. WARM
SOAP AND WATER WILL SUFFICE.
8 STEPS THAT CAN HELP PREVENT RUST ON STAINLESS STEEL:
1. USING THE CORRECT CLEANING TOOLS
Use non-abrasive tools when cleaning your stainless steel
products. The stainless steel’s passive layer will not be
harmed by soft cloths and plastic scouring pads. Step 2
tells you how to find the polishing marks.
2. CLEANING ALONG THE POLISH LINES
Polishing lines or “grain” are visible on some stainless
steels. Always scrub parallel to visible lines on some
stainless steels. Use a plastic scouring pad or soft cloth
when you cannot see the grain.
3. USE ALKALINE, ALKALINE CHLORINATED OR NON-
CHLORIDE CONTAINING CLEANERS
While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides,
the industry is providing an ever increasing choice of non-
chloride cleaners. If you are not sure of your cleaner’s
chloride content contact your cleaner supplier. If they
tell you that your present cleaner contains chlorides,
ask if they have an alternative. Avoid cleaners containing
quaternary salts as they can attack stainless steel, causing
pitting and rusting.
4. WATER TREATMENT
To reduce deposits, soften the hard water when possible.
Installation of certain filters can remove corrosive and
distasteful elements. Salts in a properly maintained water
softener can be to your advantage. Contact a treatment
specialist if you are not sure of the proper water
treatment.
5. MAINTAINING THE CLEANLINESS OF YOUR FOOD
EQUIPMENT
Use cleaners at the recommended strength (alkaline
chlorinated or non-chloride). Avoid build-up of hard
stains by cleaning frequently. When boiling water with
your stainless steel equipment, the single most likely cause
of damage is chlorides in the water. Heating any cleaners
containing chlorides will have the same damaging effects.
6. RINSE
When using chlorinated cleaners you must rinse and wipe
dry immediately. It is better to wipe standing cleaning
agents and water as soon as possible. Allow the stainless
steel equipment to air dry. Oxygen helps maintain the
passivity film on stainless steel.
7. HYDROCHLORIC ACID (MURIATIC ACID) SHOULD NEVER
BE USED ON STAINLESS STEEL
8. REGULARLY RESTORE/PASSIVATE STAINLESS STEEL
STAINLESS STEEL EQUIPMENT CARE AND CLEANING
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