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10
3. Remove the old chain from the bar.
4. Lay out the new saw chain in a loop and straighten
any kinks. THE SHARP SIDE OF THE TEETH MUST
FACE AWAY FROM YOU IN THE DIRECTION OF THE
CHAIN ROTATION INDICATED ON THE GUIDE BAR
. If the teeth face backwards,
turn the loop over (Fig. 4).
5. Starting at the tip, mount the chain drive links into the
bar groove, leaving a loop at the back of the bar. The
chain will loosely t until it is placed on the sprocket
(Figs. 5 & 6).
NOTE: Make certain of the direction of the chain
.If the chain is mounted
backwards, the saw will vibrate abnormally and will
not cut.
6. Hold the chain in position on the bar and place the loop
around the sprocket. Fit the bar ush against the mounting
surface so that the bar studs are in the long slot of the bar
and the adjusting pin is in the chain tension pin hole
(Fig. 7).
7. Adjust the chain tension as needed by adjusting the
chain tensioner screw with the supplied at-tip blade
screwdriver. Make sure to align the chain tensioner screw
with the pin hole (Fig. 8).
8. Replace the chain/sprocket end cover. Tighten the
end cover nut, but leave the bar free to move for
tension adjustment.
9. Remove all slack from the chain by turning the chain
tensioner screw clockwise until the chain seats snugly
against the bar with the drive links in the bar groove
(Fig. 9).
NOTE: The chain is correctly tensioned when there is no
sag on the underside of the guide bar; the chain is snug,
but can be rotated by hand without binding. For more
information on chain tensioning, see the maintenance
section beginning on pg. 18.
Fig. 4
Chain rotation
Sharp cutting edge
Chain drive link
R
Fig. 5
R
Fig. 6
Loop
R
Fig. 7
Sprocket
Bar studs
Chain tension pin hole
(with adjusting pin)
Fig. 8
Chain tensioner
Blade screwdriver
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