State Water Heater EN6-50-DORT 130 ProLine® 50-Gallon Tall Electric Water Heater

Product's Documents

Below are documents related to this product, you can read online or download:
User Manual Other Documents
  • Submittal Sheet - Residential Electric Submittal Sheet (SRESB00115); - (English) Download
  • Pocket Guide - State Full-Line Pocket Guide (SMBCA00106); - (English) Download
Specification
  • Spec Sheet - ProLine Standard Electric Spec Sheet (SRESS00117); - (English) Download
EN6-50-DORT 130 photo

Manual - ProLine Standard Residential Electric Manual (100309904);

This is the main product document for model EN6-50-DORT 130.

The file format is pdf, 32 pages, you can download this manual here .

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Residential Electric
Water Heater
Installaon Instrucons and
Use & Care Guide
Keep this manual in the pocket on heater for future reference whenever maintenance, adjustment or service is required.
Retain your original receipt as proof of purchase.
Table of Contents ................................... Page
Important Safety Informaon ............................................... 3
Geng Started ....................................................................... 6
Installaon .............................................................................. 7
Troubleshoong ................................................................... 21
Maintenance ........................................................................ 24
Notes .................................................................................... 28
Diagrams............................................................................... 30
Repair Parts .......................................................................... 31
LOW LEAD
CONTENT
100309904_2000561989_(Rev. A)
July 2018
Read this manual and the labels on the water heater before you install,
operate, or service it. If you have diculty following the direcons, or
aren’t sure you can safely and properly do any of this work yourself:
Call your local plumbing supplies store to have this water heater installed. Pro-
fessional Installation is available for this product and the work is guaranteed.
Schedule an appointment with a qualified person to install your water heater.
Call our Technical Assistance Hotline which is listed on the water heaters war-
ranty sheet. We can help you with installation, operations, troubleshooting, or
maintenance. Before you call, write down the model and serial number from
the water heaters data plate.
Incorrect installaon, operaon, or service can damage the water heater, your house
and other property, and present risks including re, scalding, electric shock, and
explosion, causing serious injury or death.
AHRI Cercaon® applies to residenal electric water heaters with rated capacies
of 20 to 120 gallon and input rangs of 12 kw or less.
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COMPLETED INSTALLATION (TYPICAL)
Electronic Thermostat
and Upper Element
access
Lower
Element and
Thermostat
access
T&P
relief
valve
Water
shut o
Electrical
juncon
box
T&P
discharge
pipe
Drain pan
discharge
pipe
Drain pan
Drain
valve
Expansion
tank
Cold
water
line
Hot
water
line
Drain
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SAFETY
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 3
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
Important informaon to keep
Fill out this secon and keep this
manual in the pocket of the water
heater for reference.
Date Puchased:
Model number:
Serial number:
Maintenance performed:* Date:
This is the safety alert symbol. It is used to alert you to
potenal physical injury hazards. Obey all safety mes-
sages that follow this symbol to avoid possible property
damage, serious injury or death. Do not remove any
permanent instrucons, labels, or the data plate from either the outside of
the water heater or on the inside of the access panels. Keep this manual
near the water heater.
DANGER
Read and follow all safety messages and instrucons in
this manual.
DANGER indicates hazardous
situaon that, if not avoided, will
result in death or serious injury.
WARNING
WARNING indicates a hazardous
situaon that, if not avoided, could
result in death or serious injury.
CAUTION
CAUTION indicates a hazardous
situaon that, if not avoided, could
result in minor or moderate injury.
NOTICE
NOTICE indicates pracces not
related to physical injury.
*Drain and ush tank and remove and
inspect anode rod aer rst six months
of operaon and at least annually
thereaer. Operate the Temperature
and Pressure Relief Valve (T&P) annu-
ally and inspect T&P valve every 2-4
years (see the label on the T&P valve
for maintenance schedule). If no label is
aached to the T&P Relief Valve, follow
the instrucons in the T&P Relief Valve
Maintenance secon of this manual.
See the Maintenance secon for more
informaon about maintaining this
water heater.
This product is certified to comply with a maximum weighted average of 0.25%
lead content as required in some areas.
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4 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
T
o reduce the risk of property
damage, serious injury or death,
read and follow the precauons below,
all labels on the water heater, and
the safety messages and instrucons
throughout this manual.
RISKS DURING INSTALLATION
AND MAINTENANCE
Electric Shock Risk
Contact with the electrical
parts in the junction box and
behind the access doors can
result in severe injury or death from
electrical shock:
• Disconnect power by open-
ing the circuit breaker or
removing the fuses before
installing or servicing.
• Use a non-contact circuit
tester to confirm that power
is off before working on or
near any electrical parts.
• Replace the junction box
cover and access doors after
servicing.
Liing Risk
WARNING! The
water heater is heavy.
Follow these precau-
ons to reduce the
risk of property damage, injuries from
liing or impact injuries from dropping
the water heater.
• Use at least two people to li the
water heater.
• Be sure you both have a good grip
before liing.
• Use an appliance dolly or hand
truck to move the water heater.
RISKS DURING OPERATION
Scalding Risk
This water heater
can make water hot
enough to cause
severe burns instantly, resulting in
severe injury or death.
Feel water before bathing or shower-
ing. To reduce the risk of scalding,
install Thermostatic Mixing Valves
(temperature limiting valves) at each
point-of-use. These valves automati-
cally mix hot and cold water to limit
the temperature at the tap. Mixing
valves are available from local hard-
ware stores. Follow manufacturers
instructions for installation and
adjustment of the valves.
The thermostat(s) on this water
heater have been factory set to
approximately 120°F to reduce the
risk of scalding. Higher temperatures
increase the risk of scalding, but
even at 120°F, hot water can scald.
If you choose a higher temperature,
Thermostatic Mixing Valves located
at each point-of-use are particularly
important to help avoid scalding.
For informaon about changing the
factory thermostat seng(s), refer to
the “Adjusng Temperature” secon in
this manual (“Step 10” on page 15).
Even if you set the water heater
thermostat(s) to a low seng, higher
temperatures may occur in certain
circumstances:
In some cases, repeated small draws of
water can cause the hot and cold water
in the tank to “stack” in layers. If this
happens, the water can be as much as
thirty degrees hoer than the thermo-
stat seng. This temperature variaon
is the result of your usage paern and
is not a malfuncon.
Water temperature will be hoer if
someone adjusted the thermostat(s) to
a higher seng.
Problems with the thermostat(s),
or other malfuncons may result in
higher than expected water tempera-
tures.
If the water heater is in a hot envi-
ronment, the water in the tank can
become as hot as the surrounding air,
regardless of the thermostat seng.
If the water supplied to the water
heater is pre-heated (for example, by
a solar system) the temperature in the
tank may be higher than the water
heater’s thermostat seng.
To reduce the risk of unusually hot wa-
ter reaching the xtures in the house,
install Thermostac Mixing Valves at
each point-of-use.
If anyone in your home is at parcular
risk of scalding (for example, the elder-
ly, children, or people with disabilies)
or if there is a local code or state law
requiring a certain water temperature
Temperature Time to Produce
a Serious Burn
120°F (49°C) More than 5 minutes
125°F (52°C) 1½ to 2 minutes
130°F (54°C) About 30 seconds
135°F (57°C) About 10 seconds
140°F (60°C) Less than 5 seconds
145°F (63°C) Less than 3 seconds
150°F (66°C) About 1½ seconds
155°F (68°C) About 1 second
SAFETY
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Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 5
at the hot water tap, then these precau-
ons are parcularly important.
According to a naonal standard
American Society of Sanary Engineer-
ing (ASSE 1070) and most local plumbing
codes, the water heaters thermostat
should not be used as the sole means to
regulate water temperature and avoid
scalds.
Properly adjusted Thermostac Mixing
Valves installed at each point-of-use al-
low you to set the tank temperature to
a higher seng without increasing risk
of scalds. A higher temperature seng
allows the tank to provide much more
hot water and can help provide proper
water temperatures for appliances such
as dishwashers and washing machines.
Higher tank temperatures (140°F)
also kill bacteria that cause a condi-
on known as “smelly water” and can
reduce the levels of bacteria that cause
water-borne diseases.
Water Contaminaon Risk
Do not use chemicals that could con-
taminate the potable water supply. Do
not use piping that has been treated
with chromates, boiler seal, or other
chemicals.
Fire Risk
To reduce the risk of a
fire that could destroy
your home and serious-
ly injure or kill people:
Do not store things that can burn
easily such as paper or clothes next
to the water heater.
Be sure the junction box cover and
the access door covers are in place.
These covers keep debris from enter-
ing and potentially being ignited,
and help keep any internal fires from
spreading.
Keep the water heater from becom-
ing wet. Immediately shut the water
heater off and have it inspected by a
qualified person if you find that the
wiring, thermostat(s) or surround-
ing insulation have been exposed to
water in any way (e.g., leaks from
plumbing, leaks from the water heat-
er itself can damage property and
could cause a fire risk). If the water
heater is subjected to flood condi-
tions or the thermostat(s) have been
submerged in water, the entire water
heater must be replaced.
Make electrical connections proprly,
according to the instructions on page
14. Use 10 gauge solid copper wire.
Use a UL listed or CSA approved
strain relief. Connect ground wire to
green ground screw.
Explosion Risk
High temperatures and
pressures in the water
heater tank can cause an
explosion resulng in property
damage, serious injury or death. A
new Temperature and Pressure (T&P)
Relief Valve is included with your water
heater to reduce risk of explosion by
discharging hot water. Addional
temperature and pressure protecve
equipment may be required by local
codes.
A naonally recognized tesng labora-
tory maintains periodic inspecon of
the valve producon process and cer-
es that it meets the requirements
for Relief Valves for Hot Water Supply
Systems, ANSI Z21.22. The T&P Relief
Valve’s relief pressure must not exceed
the working pressure rang of the wa-
ter heater as stated on the rang plate.
Maintain the T&P Relief Valve prop-
erly. Follow the maintenance instruc-
tions provided by the manufacturer of
the T&P Relief Valve (label attached
to T&P Relief Valve). If no label is
attached to the T&P Relief Valve, fol-
low the instructions in the T&P Relief
Valve Maintenance section of this
manual.
An explosion could occur if the T&P
Relief Valve or discharge pipe is
blocked. Do not cap or plug the T&P
Relief Valve or discharge pipe.
Fire and Explosion Risk if Hot Water is
Not Used for Two Weeks or More
CAUTION! Hydrogen gas builds up in
a hot water system when it is not used
for a long period (two weeks or more).
Hydrogen gas is extremely ammable.
If the hot water system has not been
used for two weeks or more, open a
hot water faucet for several minutes at
the kitchen sink before using any elec-
trical appliances connected to the hot
water system. Do not smoke or have
an open ame or other ignion source
near the faucet while it is open.
SAFETY
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6 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
GETTING STARTED
GETTING STARTED
1
Review all of the instrucons
before you begin work.
If you aren’t sure that you
can safely and properly do this work
yourself, call your local hardware store
to arrange for Professional Installaon
(you may also call a qualied person
of your choice, such as a licensed
plumber or electrician, to have the
work done). Improper installaon can
damage the water heater, your home
and other property, and can present
risks of serious injury or death.
2
Check with your local and
state authories for any local
or state codes that apply to
your area. In the absence of local and
state codes, follow Naonal Fire
Protecon Associaon (NFPA-70) and
the current edions of the Naonal
Electric Code (NEC) and the Interna-
onal Plumbing Code (IPC). The
instrucons in this manual comply with
naonal codes, but the installer is
responsible for complying with local
codes.
Massachuses code requires this wa-
ter heater to be installed in accordance
with Massachuses 248-CMR 2.00 and
248-CMR 5.00: State Plumbing Code.
Other local and state authories may
have similar requirements or other
codes applicable to the installaon of
this water heater.
3
Before you start, be sure you
have, and know how to use, the
following tools and supplies:
Plumbing tools and supplies appropriate
for the type of water pipes in your home
Threaded connectors (gure 1) for
the cold and hot water pipes
For homes plumbed with plasc
pipe, use threaded connectors
suitable for the specic type of
plasc pipe used: CPVC and PEX
(cross-linked polyethylene). Do
not use PVC pipe.
For homes with copper pipes,
you may purchase connector kits
with compression ngs that
don’t require soldering (gure 1).
Compression ngs are easier
to install than soldering copper
pipes.
Thread sealant tape or pipe joint
compound approved for potable
water
Tools to make the electrical connec-
ons (for example, screwdrivers, wire
strippers)
Non-Contact circuit tester to check
for power (gure 2)
Water Pressure Gauge (see next
page, gure 4)
Recommended Accessories:
Suitable drain pan (see page 8, gure 6)
Automac leak detecon and shut-
o device
Pressure Reducing Valve (gure 3)
Thermal Expansion Tank (see next
page, gure 5)
Point-of-use Thermostac Mixing
Valves (see page 8, gure 7)
Figure 1 - Flexible connectors use compression
ngs and do not require soldering.
Figure 2 - Use a non-contact circuit tester to
insure that the power is o before you work on
a circuit.
Figure 3 - Install a Pressure Reducing Valve set to
50 to 60 PSI.
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Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 7
INSTALLATION
F
ollow these steps for proper
installaon:
Verify that your
home is equipped
and up-to-date for
proper operaon
Installing a new water heater is the
perfect me to examine your home’s
plumbing system and make sure the
system is up to current code standards.
There have likely been plumbing code
changes since the old water heater was
installed. We recommend installing the
following accessories and any other
needed changes to bring your home up
to the latest code requirements.
Use the checklist below and inspect
your home. Install any devices you need
to comply with codes and assure that
your new water heater performs at its
best. Check with your local plumbing
ocial for more informaon.
Water pressure
We recommend checking your
home’s water pressure with a pressure
gauge (gure 4). Most codes allow a
maximum incoming water pressure of
80 psi. We recommend a working pres-
sure no higher than 50-60 psi.
HOW: Purchase an inexpensive water
pressure gauge available at your local
hardware store. Connect the Water
Pressure Gauge to an outside faucet
and measure the maximum water
pressure experienced throughout the
day (highest water pressures oen oc-
cur at night).
To limit your home’s water pressure:
Locate your home’s Pressure Reduc-
ing Valve (PRV) on the main incoming
(cold) water supply line and adjust the
water pressure control to between 50
and 60 psi. If your home does not have
a Pressure Reducing Valve, install a
PRV on the home’s main water supply
line and set it to between 50 and 60
psi. Pressure Reducing Valves are avail-
able at local hardware store.
BACKGROUND: Over the years, many
ulies have increased water sup-
ply pressures so they can serve more
homes. In some homes today, pres-
sures exceed 100 psi. High water
pressures can damage water heaters,
causing premature leaks. If you have
replaced toilet valves, had a water
heater leak, or had to repair applianc-
es connected to the plumbing system,
pay parcular aenon to your home’s
water pressure. When purshasing a
PRV, make sure the PRV has a built-in
bypass.
Water pressure
increase caused by
thermal expansion
Verify that you have a properly sized
Thermal Expansion Tank (gure 5). We
recommend installing an expansion
tank if your home does not have one.
Codes require a properly pressurized,
properly sized Thermal Expansion Tank
in almost all homes. (See photo on
inside front cover.)
HOW: Connect the Thermal Expansion
Tank (available at your local hardware
store) to the cold water supply line
near the water heater. The expansion
tank contains a bladder and an air
charge. To work properly, the Thermal
Expansion Tank must be sized accord-
ing to the water heaters tank capacity
and pressurized to match the home’s
incoming water pressure. Refer to the
installaon instrucons provided with
the Thermal Expansion Tank for instal-
laon details.
Figure 4 - Use a Water Pressure Gauge to make
sure your home’s water pressure is not too high.
Figure 5 - A Thermal Expansion Tank helps
protect the home’s plumbing system from pres-
sure spikes.
Step 1:
INSTALLATION
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8 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
INSTALLATION
BACKGROUND: Water expands when
heated, and the increased volume
of water must have a place to go, or
thermal expansion will cause large
increases in water pressure (despite
the use of a Pressure Reducing Valve
on the home’s main water supply
line). The Safe Drinking Water Act of
1974 requires the use of backow
preventers and check valves to restrict
water from your home reentering
the public water system. Backow
preventers are oen installed in water
meters and may not be readily visible.
As a result, most all plumbing systems
today are now “closed,” and almost all
homes now need a Thermal Expan-
sion Tank.
A Thermal Expansion Tank is a prac-
cal and inexpensive way to help avoid
damage to the water heater, washing
machine, dishwasher, ice maker and
even toilet valves. If your toilet oc-
casionally runs for no apparent reason
(usually briey at night), that may be
due to thermal expansion increasing
the water pressure temporarily.
Water pipe and tank
leaks
Leaks from plumbing pipes or from
the water heater itself can damage
property and could cause a re risk.
Install an automac leak detecon and
shuto device (available in hardware
stores). These devices can detect
water leaks and can shut o the water
heater’s water supply if a leak occurs.
Install a suitable drain pan (available
in stores) under the water heater
(gure 6) to catch condensaon or
leaks in the piping connecons or
tank. Most codes require and we
recommend installing the water
heater in a drain pan that is piped
to an adequate drain. The drain pan
must be at least two inches wider
than the diameter of the water
heater. Install the drain pan so the
water level would be limited to a
maximum depth of 1-3/4”.
Water tempera-
ture regulaon
Install Thermostac Mixing Valves (g-
ure 7) to regulate the temperature of
the water supplied to each point-of-
use (for example, kitchen sink, bath-
room sink, bath, shower). Consult the
valve manufacturers instrucons or a
qualied person.
WARNING! Even if the water heater
thermostat is set to a relavely low
temperature, hot water can scald.
Install Thermostac Mixing Valves at
each point-of-use to reduce the risk of
scalding (see page 4).
BACKGROUND: A Thermostac Mix-
ing Valve, installed at each point-
of-use, mixes hot water from the
water heater with cold water to more
precisely regulate the temperature of
hot water supplied to xtures. If you
aren’t sure if your plumbing system
is equipped with properly installed
and adjusted Thermostac Mixing
Valves at each point where hot water
is used, contact a qualied person for
more informaon.
Figure 6 - A suitable drain pan piped to an
adequate drain can help protect ooring from
leaks and drips.
Figure 7 - Thermostac Mixing Valves installed
at each point-of-use can help prevent scalding.
INSTALLATION
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Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 9
Verify that the locaon
is appropriate
Before installing your water heater,
ensure that:
1
The water heater will be:
• Installed indoors close to
the center of the plumbing
system.
In a suitable drain pan piped to an
adequate oor drain or external to
the building (See page 8, gure 6).
• In an area that will not freeze
In an area that is suitable for install-
ing the water heater vercally
2
The locaon has adequate
space (clearances) for periodic
servicing.
3
The oor can support the
weight of a full water heater.
4
Your area is not prone to
earthquakes. If it is, use
special straps as required by
local building codes.
NOTICE: The state of California re-
quires bracing, anchoring, or strapping
the water heater to avoid its moving
during an earthquake. Contact local
ulies for code requirements in your
area, visit hp://www.dsa.dgs.ca.gov,
or call 1-916-445-8100 and request
instrucons. Other locaons may have
similar requirements. Check with your
local and state authories.
5
The locaon is not prone to
physical damage by vehicles,
ooding, or other risks.
6
Avoid locaons such as acs,
upper oors, or where a leak
might damage the structure
or furnishings. Due to the normal
corrosive acon of water, the tank will
eventually leak. To minimize property
damage from leaks, inspect and
maintain your water heater in accor-
dance with this manual’s instrucons.
Install a suitable drain pan under the
water heater piped to an adequate
drain. Inspect the drain pan, pipes, and
surrounding area regularly and x any
leaks found. Drain pans are available in
local hardware stores. Leaks are
frequently in the plumbing system
itself and not the water heater.
Removing the old water
heater
1
Read each installaon step
and decide if you have the
necessary skills to install the
water heater. Only proceed if you can
safely perform the work. If you are not
comfortable, have a qualied person
perform the installaon.
2
Locate the water heaters
circuit breaker and turn it OFF
(or remove the circuits
fuses).
3
On the old water heater,
remove the electrical
junction box access panel.
Using a non-contact circuit tester,
check the wiring to make certain the
power is OFF.
WARNING! Working on an ener-
gized circuit can result in severe injury
or death from electrical shock.
4
Disconnect the electrical
wires.
5
Open a hot water faucet and
let the hot water run unl it is
cool (This may take 10
minutes or longer).
WARNING! Be sure the water runs
cool before draining the tank to reduce
the risk of scalding.
6
Connect a garden hose to the
drain valve and place the
other end of the hose in a
drain, outside, or a bucket. (Note that
sediment in the boom of the tank
may clog the valve and prevent it
from draining. If you can’t get the
Step 2:
Vehicle
Stop
Drain
Drain
Pan
In a garage, install a vehicle stop to avoid water
heater damage.
Step 3:
Let the hot water run unl it is cool.
INSTALLATION
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10 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
INSTALLATION
tank to drain, contact a qualied
person.)
Turn the cold water supply
valve OFF.
8
Open the drain valve on the
water heater.
9
Also open a hot water faucet
to help the water in the tank
drain faster.
10
When the tank is empty,
disconnect the Temperature &
Pressure (T&P) Relief Valve
discharge pipe. You may be able to
reuse the discharge pipe, but do not
reuse the old T&P Relief Valve. A new
T&P Relief Valve comes installed on
your water heater (or on some models,
is in the carton with the water heater).
11
Disconnect the water pipes.
Many water pipes are
connected by a threaded
union which can be disconnected with
wrenches. If you must cut the water
pipes, cut the pipes close to the water
heater’s inlet and outlet connecons,
leaving the water pipes as long as
possible. If necessary, you can make
them shorter later when you install
the new water heater.
12
Remove the old water heater.
WARNING! Use two or more people
to remove or install water heater.
Failure to do so can result in back or
other injury.
Installing the new
water heater
1
Completely read all instruc-
ons before beginning. If you
are not sure you can com-
plete the installaon, DO NOT
RETURN THIS UNIT TO THE STORE.
Seek assistance from any of the
following sources:
Professional Installaon is avail-
able for this product and the
work is guaranteed. Call your
local hardware store to have this
water heater installed.
Schedule an appointment with
a qualied person to install your
water heater.
Call our Technical Assistance Ho-
tline which is listed on the water
heater’s warranty sheet.
2
Install a suitable drain pan
that is piped to an adequate
drain.
3
Set the water heater in place
taking care not to damage
the drain pan.
NOTICE: Most codes require seng
the water heater in a suitable drain
pan piped to an adequate drain. The
drain pan helps avoid property dam-
age which may occur from condensa-
on or leaks in the piping connecons
or tank. The drain pan must be at
least two inches wider than the diam-
eter of the water heater. Install the
drain pan so the water level is limited
to a maximum depth of 1-3/4”.
4
Verify that the water heater
is set in place properly. Check
that:
The T&P Relief Valve will not be in
contact with any electrical parts.
There is adequate space to install
the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe
and that it can be piped to a sepa-
rate drain (and not into the drain
pan).
There is adequate access and space
around the water heater for future
maintenance.
7
Draining the old water heater.
Removing the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe.
Step 4:
INSTALLATION
background
DO NOT CONNECT ELECTRICAL
WIRING UNTIL YOU ARE
INSTRUCTED TO DO SO.
NOTICE: Connecng electrical power
to the tank before it is completely
full of water (water must run FULL
STREAM from a hot water tap for a full
three minutes) will cause the upper
heang element to burn out.
Connect the Tempera-
ture and Pressure (T&P)
Relief Valve/Pipe
Most T&P Relief Valves are pre-installed
at the factory. In some cases, they are
shipped in the carton and must be
installed in the opening marked and
provided for this purpose and according
to local codes.
WARNING! To avoid serious injury
or death from explosion, install a T&P
Relief Valve according to the following
instrucons:
1
If your water heater does not
have a factory installed T&P
Relief Valve, install the new
T&P Relief Valve that came with your
water heater. Do not reuse an old T&P
Relief Valve. Install a T&P Relief Valve
discharge pipe according to local codes
and the following guidelines:
The discharge pipe should be at least
3/4” inside diameter and sloped for
proper drainage. Install it to allow
complete drainage of both the T&P
Relief Valve and the discharge pipe.
The discharge pipe must withstand
250°F (121°C) without distoron. Use
only copper or CPVC pipe. Do not
use any other type of pipe, such as
PVC, iron, exible plasc pipe, or any
type of hose.
Terminate the discharge pipe a maxi-
mum of six inches above a oor drain
or outside the building. Do not drain
the discharge pipe into the drain
pan; instead pipe it separately to
an adequate drain. In cold climates,
terminate the discharge pipe inside
the building to an adequate drain.
Outside drains could freeze and
obstruct the drain line. Protect the
drain from freezing.
Do not place any valve or other re-
stricon between the tank and T&P
Relief Valve. Do not cap, block, plug,
or insert any valve between the T&P
Relief Valve and the end of the dis-
charge pipe. Do not insert or install
any reducer in the discharge pipe.
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 11
Step 5:
The T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe must be in-
stalled properly and piped to an adequate drain.
The end of the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe
must stop no more than six inches above a oor
drain or outside.
DISCHARGE
PIPE
DRAIN
PIPE
INSTALLATION
background
Install shuto and
tempering valves
1
If one is not already installed,
install a manual shuto valve
in the cold water line that
supplies the water heater. Install the
shuto valve near the water heater so
that it is readily accessible. Only use
valves that are compable with
potable water. Use only full-ow ball
or gate valves. Other types of valves
may cause excessive restricon to the
water ow.
2
Install a Thermostac Mixing
Valve at each point-of-use
(for example, kitchen sink,
bathroom sink, bath, shower).
Consult the valve manufacturers
instrucons or a qualied person.
WARNING! Even if the water
heater’s thermostat(s) are set to a
relavely low temperature, hot water
can scald. Install Thermostac Mixing
Valves at each point-of-use to reduce
the risk of scalding. (See page 4.)
3
For water heaters that are fed
by a solar water heang system (or
any other pre-heang system), always
install a Thermostac Mixing Valve or
other temperature liming device in
the inlet water supply line to limit
water supply inlet temperature to
120°F. Solar water heang systems can
supply water with temperatures
exceeding 170°F and may result in
water heater malfuncon.
WARNING! Hot water provided by
solar heang systems can cause
severe burns instantly, resulng in
severe injury or death (see page 4).
1
Connect the water
supply
Determine the type of water pipes in
your home. Most homes use copper
water pipes, but some use CPVC or
cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Use
ngs appropriate for the type of pipe
in your home. Do not use iron or PVC
pipe – they are not suitable for potable
water.
2
Connect the cold water
supply using 3/4 inch
Naonal Pipe Thread “NPT”
to the ng marked “C” (COLD).
For ease of removing the water heater
for service or replacement, connect
the water pipes with a coupling called
a union. We recommend using a
dielectric-type union (available at lo-
cal hardware stores). Dielectric unions
can help prevent corrosion caused by
ny electric currents common in cop-
per water pipes and can help extend
the life of the water heater.
12 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
INSTALLATION
Step 6:
Install Thermostac Mixing Valves at each point
where hot water will be used.
Step 7:
IF YOU HAVE COPPER
PIPES:
If your home has copper water
pipes, you can solder the water
pipe connecons or use compres-
sion ngs which don’t require
soldering. Compression ngs
are easier to install than soldering
pipe. Check with local plumbing
ocials to determine what types
of pipe materials are suitable for
your locaon. Do not use lead-
based solder.
NOTICE: Do not solder pipes while
they are aached to the water
heater. The water heaters inlet
and outlet connecons contain
non-metallic parts which could be
damaged. The proper way to con-
nect the water heater to copper
water pipes is as follows:
Solder a short length of pipe
(about a foot or so) to a threaded
adapter using only 95/5 n-
anmony or equivalent solder.
Aach the threaded adapters to
the water heaters connecons
(using thread sealant tape or pipe
joint compound). Connect the
home’s water pipes by soldering,
keeping the connecons at the
water heater cool with wet rags.
INSTALLATION
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 13
NOTICE: Most water heater models
contain energy saving heat traps in the
inlet and outlet connecons to avoid
the circulaon of hot water within the
pipes. Do not remove the heat traps.
3
Connect the hot water supply
using 3/4 inch NPT to the
ng marked “H” (HOT).
Follow the same connecon guidelines
as for the cold water supply.
4
Install insulaon (or heat
tape) on the water pipes
especially if the indoor
installaon area is subject to freezing
temperatures. Insulang the hot water
pipes can increase energy eciency.
5
Double check to make sure
the hot and cold water pipes
are connected to the correct
hot and cold water ngs on the
water heater.
6
If needed, install (or adjust)
the home’s Pressure Reducing
Valve to 50-60 psi and install a
Thermal Expansion Tank.
Verify connecons and
completely ll tank
To remove air from the tank and allow
the tank to ll completely with water,
follow these steps:
1
Remove the aerator at the
nearest hot water faucet. This
allows any debris in the tank
or plumbing system to be washed out.
2
Turn the cold water supply
back on.
3
Open a hot water faucet and
allow the water to run unl it
ows with a full stream.
4
Let the water run full stream
for three full minutes.
5
Close the hot water faucet
and replace the aerator.
6
Check inlet and outlet
connecons and water pipes
for leaks. Dry all pipes so that
any drips or leaks will be apparent.
Repair any leaks. Almost all leaks occur
at connecons and are not a tank leak.
Full-ow ball valve
A Pressure Reducing Valve is required if your
home’s water pressure is above 80 psi.
The Thermal Expansion Tank should be pres-
surized with air, to match the home’s incoming
water pressure.
Step 8:
Fully open the cold water supply valve.
INSTALLATION
background
14 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
INSTALLATION
Make electrical
connecons
WARNING! Working on an ener-
gized circuit can result in severe injury
or death from electrical shock.
NOTICE: Do not turn electrical power
on unless you are sure all of the air
is out of the tank and the tank is
completely full of water. If power is
applied before the tank is completely
full of water, the upper element will
burn out (Dry Fire).
1
Be sure the electrical power
to the water heater is turned
OFF at the circuit breaker
panel (or remove the circuit’s fuses).
2
Using a non-contact circuit
tester, check the wiring to
make certain the power is OFF.
3
Check the water heaters
data plate and ensure that
the home’s voltage, wiring
size (ampacity) and circuit breaker
rang and type are correct for this
water heater. Refer to the wiring
diagram located on the water heater
for the correct electrical connecons.
Ensure that wire sizes, type, and
connecons comply with all appli-
cable local codes. In the absence of
local codes, follow NFPA-70 and the
current edion of the Naonal Electric
Code (NEC).
4
Remove the cover on the
electrical juncon box on the
top of the water heater.
5
Install wiring in an approved
conduit (if required by local
codes). Use a UL listed or CSA
approved strain relief to secure the
electrical wiring to the water heater.
6
Connect the ground wire to
the green ground screw.
Connect the home’s two
power wires to the water heaters
four power wires (black to black, red
to red). Use suitable wire nuts or
other approved means to make the
power connecons.
NOTICE: The tank must be com-
pletely empty of air and full of
water before connecng electrical
power to avoid “Dry Firing.” Dry
Firing may result in the upper ele-
ment burning out. This is a com-
mon installaon mistake. Aer
you make the water connecons,
but before you connect the electri-
cal power, open a hot water faucet
and let the water run full unl all
the air is removed. Let the “hot”
water run full for three minutes
or longer before connecng any
electrical wires. A Dry Fired upper
heang element is an installaon
error and is not covered under
warranty.
If Dry Firing occurs, replace the up-
per heang element according to
the instrucons on page 26.
Step 9:
The water heaters electrical requirements can
be determined from the data plate.
Red Wires
(3)
Smart Grid
Cover
1/2” Conduit
Connection
Black Wires
(3)
Ground
Wires
Connecng the electrical wires.
INSTALLATION
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 15
Replace the juncon box
cover and secure with the
screws provided.
WARNING! Be sure cover is secured
to reduce the risk of re and electric
shock.
Adjusng the
Temperature
With the installaon steps completed,
you may adjust the water heaters
temperature seng if desired.
1
Set the thermostat(s) to
desired temperature. The
thermostat(s) on this water
heater have been factory set to
approximately 120°F to reduce the risk
of scald injury. You may wish to set a
higher temperature to provide hot
water for automac dishwashers or
laundry machines, to provide more hot
water capacity, and to reduce bacterial
growth. Higher tank temperatures
(140° F) kill bacteria that cause a
condion known as “smelly water
and can reduce the levels of bacteria
that cause water-borne diseases.
WARNING! Higher temperatures
increase the risk of scalding, but even at
120°F, hot water can scald (see page 4).
If you increase the water heater’s tem-
perature seng, install Thermostac
Mixing Valve(s) at each point-of-use to
reduce the risk of scalding.
To adjust the water heaters thermo-
stat:
Be sure the electrical power to the
water heater is turned OFF at the
circuit breaker panel (or remove the
circuit’s fuses).
WARNING! Working near an
energized circuit can result in severe
injury or death from electrical shock.
Check wires with a circuit tester to
make sure power is o.
Remove the upper and lower access
panels and fold away the insulaon.
Turn the water temperature dial
clockwise ( >>) to increase the tem-
perature, or counter clockwise ( << )
to decrease the temperature. Adjust
thermostat to the desire tempera-
ture set-point.
NOTE: Your water heater has only one
thermostat, it is located behind the
upper access panel.
Fold the insulaon back in place and
replace the access panels.
WARNING! Be sure panels are
secured to reduce the risk of re and
electric shock.
2
Turn the electric power back
on.
3
Wait for the water to heat up.
It may take several hours for a
tank of cold water to heat up.
If you have no hot water aer two
hours, refer to the Troubleshoong
Secon (see page 21).
WARNING! If you have increased
the temperature seng and the
Thermostac Mixing Valves are not set
properly (or not installed) you could
scald yourself while checking the
temperature.
4
Check water temperature at
several points of use in your
home (for example, bathtub
faucet, shower, or lavatory sink) and
adjust the Thermostac Mixing Valves
as needed. If you aren’t sure how to
adjust the Thermostac Mixing Valve
sengs, or aren’t sure if you have
Thermostac Mixing Valves, contact a
qualied person.
Step 10:
7
Adjust Thermostac Mixing Valves at each point-
of-use to 120°F or lower.
INSTALLATION
background
16 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
INSTALLATION
Operaon
The water heater is now ready for
normal operaon. To keep your water
heater working safely and eciently
and extend its life, perform mainte-
nance according to the schedule on
page 25.
Vacaon
To save energy, lower the temperature
seng on the thermostat(s) if you
plan to be gone for an extended me.
Follow the instrucons in Step 10 for
adjusng the thermostat to a lower
temperature seng before you leave
and to properly raise the temperature
seng when you return.
CAUTION! Hydrogen gas builds up
in a hot water system when it is not
used for a long period (two weeks
or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely
ammable. If the hot water system
has not been used for two weeks or
more, open a hot water faucet for
several minutes at the kitchen sink
before using any electrical appliances
connected to the hot water system.
Do not smoke or have an open ame
or other ignion source near the fau-
cet while it is open.
Step 11:
INSTALLATION
Need Assistance?
Call our Technical Assistance Hotline which is listed on the water
heater’s warranty sheet.
We can help you with installaon, operaon, troubleshoong, or maintenance.
Before you call, write down the model and serial number from the
water heaters data plate.
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 17
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
The Electronic Thermostat
IMPORTANT: The Grid Communica-
on Adaptor must be removed before
aempng to access the thermostat.
NOTE: for the Electronic Thermostat
(ET) changes to remain in eect the Grid
Communicaon Adaptor must not be
reconnected, also read the “Risks During
Operaon” under the “Important Safety
Informaon” secon. If the instrucons
are not clear, contact a qualied service
technician.
Water Temperature Adjustment
The Grid Communicaon Adaptor is in-
tended to serve as the primary interface
for operang the water heater; however,
the Electronic Thermostat (ET) may
control the water heater in the absence
of the Grid Communicaon Adaptor.
The Electronic Thermostat consists of
an electronics box that contains a low
voltage power supply, the thermostat
set point knob, relays to switch between
the upper and lower heang elements,
one control thermistor, a connector for
the lower element control thermistor,
microelectronics to convert the thermis-
tor signals and perform switching and
other logic funcons, and a connector to
e the Electronic Thermostat (ET) to the
Grid Communicaon Adaptor located on
the top of the water heater. The majority
of the self-diagnoscs are located in the
Electronic Thermostat (ET), including the
dry-re protecon intelligence. The ther-
mostat circuit is designed so that when
the upper heang element calls for heat,
the power is directed to that element
even if the lower element is also calling
for heat.
Diagnosc LED Light
The Green/Red LED light indicates the
status of the electronic thermostat (See
Figure 8).
• Green LED will signal normal opera-
on. The green LED will blink 2 mes
per second to indicate that power is ap-
plied to the upper heang element and
at a faster rate (4 mes per second) to
indicate that the lower heang element
is powered.
• Red LED will ash error codes. If
a fault is detected by the electronic
thermostat, the LED light indicator will
use the red LED to indicate the fault
detected. The ash code sequence is to
consist of 1/2 second ashes of the red
LED each separated by a 1/2 second o
period.
The number of ashes indicates the
fault code number.
(See diagnosc code chart secon in
this manual).
Aer the last 1/2 second “on” period,
the LED will remain o unl a total of 5
seconds has elapsed for the fault indica-
on cycle (there is a 5 seconds delay
before the fault ash paern repeats).
Aer the 5 seconds are completed, the
fault indicaon cycle is repeated starng
with the rst 1/2 second-ash. The ash
sequence will be repeated as long as
the fault remains. Only one fault can
be declared at a me. NOTE: the green
LED is turned o when a fault code is
being displayed, even though the heater
may be operang in limp mode with an
element on. See diagnosc code chart
secon in this manual.
Adjust the thermostat to the desired
temperature seng using the “Setpoint
Knob”. NOTE: If the system diagnosc
yields any codes, reference the Diagnos-
c Code secon in this manual.
Figure 8
Electronic Thermostat (ET)
Diagnostic
LED Light
ECO Reset
Button
Setpoint
Knob
Remove Only After Power Is
Turned O When Replacing Element.
Plastic Guard
Upper
Element
WARNING! Electrical Shock Hazard
Do not remove the plasc guard from
over wiring.
Do not touch electrical wiring.
Failure to do so can result in death or
electrical shock.
WARNING! Electrical Shock Hazard
Do not remove the plasc guard from
over wiring.
Do not touch electrical wiring.
Failure to do so can result in death or
electrical shock.
Figure 9
Electronic
Thermostat (ET)
Setpoint
Knob
Thermistor
Wire Harness
Access Door
background
18 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
INSTALLATION
18 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
Smart Grid Technology
The electric Smart Grid will enable sig-
nicant improvements in electric power
reliability and quality through reducon
of peak power demand, while providing
consumers the knowledge and ability to
manage their energy consumpon and
ulity costs.
According to the Department of
Energy (DOE), since 1982 the growth
in peak electricity demand has exceed-
ed power transmission growth. This
has caused more frequent blackouts
and service interruptions, as well as an
increase in the costly reserve capac-
ity the power grid requires to meet
higher peak demands. The increased
demand for electrical power across
the nation has also led to higher peak
utility costs.
Smart appliances are one way to
help mitigate this problem. By using
advanced digital communication tech-
nologies, smart appliances will be
able to communicate with local power
company or home energy manage-
ment systems, and react accordingly
to save energy and money. For exam-
ple, during peak demand periods the
water heater may pause or delay its
power consumption and thus reduce
the load on the smart utility grid.
Additionally, smart appliances will also
communicate with consumers to let
them know how much energy they are
consuming. This will eventually allow
consumers to control their appliances,
manage energy usage, and to ulti-
mately save money.
Smart Grid Control
(Where Available)
Where available, Grid Communicaon
Adaptors may be supplied by the local
power company or purchased from lead-
ing retailers. Please contact your local
power company for more informaon.
To acvate Smart Grid Control, remove
the cover over the grid connecon pins
and plug in the grid communicaon
adaptor. See Figure 10. NOTE: use only
approved grid communicaon adaptors.
This will enable the power company to
communicate the peak demand periods
for the water heaters power usage.
Aer this connecon has been made,
this will enable and allow acceptance of
the power company communicaon of
grid management requests. Unplugging
will disable this feature and will allow
the water heater to ignore grid manage-
ment requests.
NOTE: Smart Grid will be disabled when
the Grid Communicaon Adaptor is dis-
connected from the juncon box wiring
harness.
Smart Grid Connecon
Figure 10
Grid Connection
Pins
Junction Box
Grid
Communication
Adaptor
(May Be Supplied By Power Company)
(May Dier in Appearance)
WARNING! Electrical Shock Hazard
Disconnect power before servicing.
Replace all parts and panels before
operang.
Failure to do so can result in death or
electrical shock.
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 19
TROUBLESHOOTING
Setpoint
Knob
Diagnostic
LED Light
Plastic Guard
IMPORTANT: Before attempting to adjust the
thermostat, read the “Adjusting The Temperature”
section page 15.
The Electronic Thermostat (ET) is designed so
that it may control the water heater without the
Grid Communication Adaptor being operated,
see page 17.
If the instructions are not clear, contact a qualied
service technician.
DIAGNOSTIC CODE CHART Electronic Thermostat (ET)
WARNING! Electrical Shock Hazard
Do not remove the plasc guard from
over wiring.
Do not touch electrical wiring.
Failure to do so can result in death or
electrical shock.
(ET)
DIAGNOSTIC
LED
INDICATES CORRECTIVE ACTION*
LIGHT ON
(Green Flash)
Normal operation. None
NO LIGHT No electrical power to control board
or diagnostic LED light burned out.
1. Check for blown fuses or tripped breaker.
2. If diagnostic LED light is burned out, replace Electronic Thermostat
(ET).
1 FLASH
(Red)
Dry-fire, electrical power on with the
tank not completely full of water.
1. Turn off electrical power at breaker, add water.
2. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
3. See “Routine Maintenance” on page 25.
2 FLASHES
(Red)
Water temperature exceeded high
limit.
1. Turn off electrical power at the breaker.
2. Press the reset button (see Figure 8).
3. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
4. If error returns call a service technician for assistance.
3 FLASHES
(Red)
Upper thermistor sensor failure.
(Note: Upper thermistor sensor is
part of the ET)
1. Turn off electrical power at the breaker.
2. Replace Electronic Thermostat (ET).
3. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
4 FLASHES
(Red)
Upper element circuit failure.
(Note: Lower element is still operable)
1. Turn off electrical power at the breaker.
2. Check element circuits for resistance of 5-25 ohms (replace if required).
3. Check wires at elements and Electronic Thermostat (ET) for damage.
If this 4 flashes condition continues, replace Electronic Thermostat (ET).
4. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
5 FLASHES
(Red)
Lower element circuit failure.
(Note: Upper element is still operable)
1. Turn off electrical power at the breaker.
2. Check element circuits for resistance of 5-25 ohms (replace if required).
3. Check wires at elements and Electronic Thermostat (ET) for damage.
If this 5 flashes condition continues, replace Electronic Thermostat (ET).
4. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
6 FLASHES
(Red)
Electronic Thermostat (ET) failure
(Internal processor).
1. Turn off electrical power at the breaker. Now turn on electrical power to
see if error clears. If error has not cleared, replace Electronic Thermo-
stat (ET).
2. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
7 FLASHES
(Red)
Lower thermistor sensor failure. 1. Turn off electrical power at the breaker.
2. Check electrical connections at Electronic Thermostat (ET).
3. Replace Lower Thermistor Sensor.
4. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
8 FLASHES
(Red)
Electronic Thermostat (ET) error 1. Turn off electrical power.
2. Check wiring at Electronic Thermostat (ET) for damage.
3. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
4. If this code flashes condition continues, replace the Electronic
Thermostat (ET).
background
20 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
TROUBLESHOOTING
(ET)
DIAGNOSTIC
LED
INDICATES CORRECTIVE ACTION*
9, 10, 11 or 12 FLASHES
(Red)
Electronic Thermostat (ET) error 1. Turn off electrical power.
2. Check wiring at Electronic Thermostat (ET) for damage.
3. Turn on electrical power at breaker.
4. If this code flashes condition continues, replace the Electronic
Thermostat (ET).
*These instructions are brief and intended as guidance for a qualied person. If you lack the necessary
skills to perform these procedures call our Technical Assistance Hotline which is listed on the water
heater’s warranty sheet.
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 21
TROUBLESHOOTING
WARNING! Working near an
energized circuit can result in severe
injury or death from electrical shock.
WARNING! When you are nished,
be sure all covers are secured to
reduce the risk of re and electric
shock.
No Hot Water
The most likely reasons for an electric wa-
ter heater to produce NO hot water are:
No electric power—a common prob-
lem with new installaons
Burned out upper element (Dry
Fired) — a common problem with
new installaons
Tripped Energy Cut O (red buon
on upper thermostat)
The water heaters inlet and outlet
connecons are reversed (usually
only in new installaons)
Broken upper thermostat (or wiring)
A leak in the hot water side of the
plumbing system that exceeds the
water heater’s heang capacity and
makes it appear that the water heater
is producing lile to no hot water
Follow these steps to diagnose and
correct common electrical problems:
1
Check the electric power to
the water heater. No hot
water is oen caused by a
problem with the home’s electrical
wiring or circuit breakers. You’ll need a
non-contact circuit tester. Follow these
guidelines:
Locate the water heaters circuit
breaker and turn it o (or remove the
circuit’s fuses).
Locate the electrical juncon box on
top of the water heater and remove
the cover.
Idenfy the two power wires. The
power wires are usually black/black
or black/red—the green or copper
wire is the ground wire.
Turn the circuit breaker back on
(or install the fuses) and check the
power on both incoming power wires
using a non-contact circuit tester.
Turn the power o and replace the
cover on the electrical juncon box.
If the water heater is not geng
power, contact a qualied person to
have your home’s wiring or circuit
breakers checked.
2
Check the upper heang
element. If the water heater is
geng electrical power, check
to see if the upper heang element has
burned out. If the upper element is
burned out, you’ll have no hot water.
To check the upper element, you’ll
need a mulmeter capable of reading
resistance.
Turn the power OFF at the circuit
breaker or remove fuses.
Remove the upper access panel.
Remove the insulaon to access the
upper thermostat and heang ele-
ment.
3
Check the top two screws of
the upper thermostat using a
non-contact circuit tester and
conrm that power is o (screw
terminals 1 and 3 in photo on next
page).
With the electrical power o, remove
the two power wires from the upper
heang element.
4
Check the resistance of the
upper heang element using
a mulmeter. Measure the
resistance between the two screw
terminals on the upper heang
element. A good element will have a
resistance ranging between 5 and 25
Ohms. If the resistance is:
Outside this range. Replace the ele-
ment (see the Roune Maintenance
secon on page 26). On a new water
heater, a burned out upper heang
element is almost always caused by
turning the power on before the tank
was completely full of water (Dry Fire).
(See Step 8 in the Installaon secon.)
Within this range. Reaach the power
wires, making sure the wires are in
good condion and the connecons
are clean and ght. Next, check the
following:
Use a non-contact circuit tester to check for
electrical power.
Use a mulmeter to check the resistance of the
upper heang element.
TROUBLESHOOTING
background
22 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
5
Check/Reset Energy Cut O
(ECO) Buon.
The Energy Cut O (ECO) shuts o pow-
er to the water heaters elements if the
temperature of the water in the tank
gets too hot. If the ECO has tripped,
you’ll have no hot water. A tripped ECO
can usually be reset, but you should
have a qualied person invesgate the
cause of the overheang and repair the
problem. Do not turn the power back
on unl the cause of the overheang
has been idened and repaired.
To check the Energy Cut O (ECO)
Turn o the power to the water
heater.
WARNING! Working near an
energized circuit can result in severe
injury or death from electrical shock.
Check power wires in the electrical
juncon box with a non-contact circuit
tester to make sure power is o.
Press the red ECO reset buon (see
photo above).
The ECO was tripped if you hear a
click when it is reset. In most cases,
a tripped ECO indicates that the tank
overheated due to a problem with
one of the elements or thermostats—
have a qualied person check the up-
per and lower elements and thermo-
stats and replace if necessary.
The ECO was not tripped if you didn’t
hear a click. In that case, the upper
thermostat should be checked by a
qualied person.
Replace the insulaon and the upper
access panel.
WARNING! Be sure all covers are
secured to reduce the risk of re and
electric shock.
Insucient Hot Water
or Slow Hot Water
Recovery
WARNING! Because of the in-
creased risk from scalding, if you set
the water heater’s thermostat(s)
higher than 120°F, Thermostac Mixing
Valves at each point-of-use are
parcularly important (see page 4).
If the hot water is simply not warm
enough, there are several possible
causes:
Faulty Thermostac Mixing Valve in a
faucet or shower control (check other
faucets in the house for hot water)
One (or both) of the thermostats set
too low
Water heaters capacity too small (or
usage too high)
Reversed plumbing connecons or
melted dip tube (usually found soon
aer new installaon)
• Plumbing leak
Bad lower heang element (or lower
thermostat)
• Low supply voltage
Thermostac Mixing Valves. If the
hot water is simply not warm enough,
make sure the faucet you are checking
doesn’t have a defecve Thermostac
Mixing Valve. Many shower controls
now have built-in mixing valves. If
these devices fail, they can reduce the
amount of hot water the shower or
faucet delivers even though there is
plenty of hot water in the tank. Always
check the water temperature at several
faucets to make sure the problem is not
in a faucet or shower control.
Thermostats set too low. If the water
temperature at several faucets is too
cool, adjust the thermostat(s) accord-
ing to the instrucons in Step 10 of the
Installaon secon of this manual.
Undersized water heater. If your water
heater runs out of hot water too quick-
ly, it may be too small for your needs. If
the water heater is old, consider replac-
ing it with a larger model. If the water
heater is in good condion, you may
be able to meet your family’s hot water
needs with the exisng water heater by
installing Thermostac Mixing Valves at
each point-of-use and then turning the
thermostat(s) to a higher seng. See
page 15, step 10.
You can also reduce your home’s hot
water needs by washing clothes in cold
water, installing ow restrictors on
shower heads, repairing leaky faucets,
and taking other conservaon steps.
Reversed connecons or melted dip
tube. Check the hot and cold connec-
ons and make sure your home’s hot
water pipe is connected to the hot wa-
ter outlet on the water heater. Usually,
reversed connecons are found soon
aer the installaon of a new unit. If
copper pipes were soldered while they
were aached to the water heater, the
dip tube may have melted. The dip tube
is a long plasc tube inside the tank
aached to the cold water inlet. If the
dip tube has melted, it can be replaced
by removing the cold water inlet con-
necon, removing the old dip tube and
installing a new one.
Plumbing leak. Even a small leak in the
hot water side of the home’s plumbing
system can make it appear that the wa-
ter heater is producing lile to no hot
water. Locate and repair the leak.
Lower heang element not working.
If the lower heang element (or, more
THERMINALS
“1” and “3”
Energy Cut O (ECO) buon
TROUBLESHOOTING
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 23
TROUBLESHOOTING
rarely, the lower thermostat) is not
working, you will have some hot water
but not as much as before. Because
the lower element does most of the
work, the lower element usually wears
out before the upper element. Replace
the lower element and/or thermostat
if necessary (see page 26-27).
Temperature Too High
If the water temperature is too hot:
Install or adjust the Thermostac
Mixing Valves for each point-of-use
(see manufacturers instrucons), or
Adjust the thermostat(s) on the wa-
ter heater (see Step 10 in the installa-
on secon of this manual).
A nonfunconing thermostat or a
shorted heang element can cause ex-
tremely hot water. If the Temperature
and Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)
releases large amounts of very hot
water, it is likely due to a shorted heat-
ing element, or more rarely a nonfunc-
oning thermostat, or the thermostat
does not t snuggly against the tank.
Very high water temperatures can also
cause the Energy Cut O (ECO) to trip
(see page 27). Turn power o unl this
problem is xed.
Low Water Pressure
Check both the cold and hot water at a
sink to determine if the lower pressure
is only on the hot water side. If both hot
and cold faucets have low pressure, call
your local water ulity. If the low pres-
sure is only on the hot water side, the
primary causes of this are:
Melted heat traps or dip tube. Solder-
ing copper pipes while they are con-
nected to the water heater can melt
the heat traps inside the hot and cold
water connecons or the dip tube
(cold water side). Melted heat traps or
a melted dip tube can restrict the ow
of hot water. If thats the case, replace
the heat traps or dip tube.
Parally closed supply valve. Open
the water heaters supply valve fully.
Drips from T&P Relief
Valve Discharge Pipe
A small amount of water dripping from
the Temperature and Pressure (T&P)
Relief Valve usually means the home’s
water pressure is too high or you need
a properly sized and pressurized Ther-
mal Expansion Tank. Refer to Step 1 in
the Installaon secon of this manual
for more informaon. A large amount
of hot water coming from the T&P
discharge pipe may be due to the tank
overheang.
WARNING! Do not cap or plug the
T&P relief valve or discharge pipe, and
do not operate the water heater
without a funconing T&P Relief Valve
- this could cause an explosion.
Water pressure too high. High water
pressure can cause the T&P Relief
Valve to drip. Install a Pressure Reduc-
ing Valve (PRV) on the main cold water
supply line. Adjust the PRV to between
50 and 60 psi.
Thermal Expansion Tank. Install a
Thermal Expansion Tank. If a Thermal
Expansion Tank is already installed and
the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe
drips, the Thermal Expansion Tank may
be pressurized to the wrong pres-
sure or the internal bladder may be
defecve. Refer to the instrucons that
came with the Thermal Expansion Tank
for more informaon.
Debris. In rare cases, debris can sck
inside the T&P Relief Valve prevenng
the valve from seang fully. In that
case, the T&P Relief Valve discharge
pipe will drip. You may be able to clear
debris from the T&P Relief Valve by
manually operang the valve, allow-
ing small quanes of water to ush
out the debris. Refer to the T&P Relief
Maintenance secon of this manual.
WARNING! When manually operat-
ing the temperature-pressure relief
valve, make sure that no one is in
front of or around the discharge out-
let. The water may be extremely hot
and could cause severe burns. Also
ensure that the water discharge will
not cause property damage.
If the water pressure is between 50
and 60 psi, a Thermal Expansion Tank
is installed and properly pressurized,
and the valve has been cleared of any
debris, and it sll drips, the valve may
be broken—have a qualied person
replace the T&P relief valve.
Water Odor
Harmless bacteria normally present in
tap water can mulply in water heat-
ers and give o a “roen egg” smell.
Although eliminang the bacteria that
causes “smelly water” with a Chlorina-
on system is the only sure treatment,
in some cases, the standard anode
rod that came with your water heater
can be replaced with a special zinc
anode rod which may help reduce or
eliminate the odor. Contact a qualied
person.
NOTE: To protect the tank, an anode rod
must be installed in the water heater at
all mes or the warranty is void.
In cases where the “roen egg” smell
is pronounced, you can raise the tank
temperature to 140°F in order to re-
duce bacteria growth in the tank.
WARNING! Because higher
temperatures increase the risk of
scalding, if you set the thermostat(s)
higher than 120°F, Thermostac
Mixing Valves at each point-of-use are
parcularly important (see page 4).
TROUBLESHOOTING
background
MAINTENANCE
MAINTENANCE
Roune Maintenance
Roune maintenance will help your
water heater last longer and work more
eciently. If you can’t perform these
roune maintenance tasks yourself,
contact a qualied person.
Water Heater Maintenance
Aer the rst six months, drain and
ush the water heater and inspect the
anode rod. Depending on the hard-
ness of your water, repeat this process
at least annually, or more frequently if
needed. From me to me you may
need to replace a heang element or a
thermostat. All three maintenance tasks
are described below.
Draining and Flushing the
Water Heater
Tap water contains minerals that can
form lime deposits on heang elements
or sediment in the boom of the tank.
The amount of lime deposits or sedi-
ment depends on the hardness of your
tap water. The rate at which sediment
builds up depends on water quality and
hardness in your area, the tempera-
ture sengs, and other variables. We
recommend draining and ushing the
water heater aer the rst six months
of operaon to determine the amount
of sediment build up. Draining sedi-
ment extends the life of the tank, heat-
ing elements, and drain valves.
In areas with very hard water, remove
and check the heang elements
whenever you drain the tank. If you
have heavy lime deposits on heang
elements, you will need to replace
them more oen.
Sediment may form large masses that
can prevent the tank from draining.
Have a qualied person use a de-liming
agent suitable for potable water to
remove the sediment buildup.
In most cases, it is easier and cheaper
to replace lime-encrusted elements
than trying to remove heavy lime
deposits.
To drain and ush the tank:
1
Locate the water heaters
circuit breaker and turn it OFF
(or remove the circuit’s fuses).
2
Open a hot water faucet and
let the hot water run unl it is
cool.
WARNING! Be sure the water runs
cool before draining the tank to reduce
the risk of scalding.
3
Connect a garden hose to the
drain valve and place the other
end of the hose in a drain,
outside, or in buckets.
4
Turn the cold water supply
valve OFF.
5
Open the drain valve on the
water heater.
6
Open a hot water faucet to
help the water in the tank
drain faster.
NOTICE: DO NOT turn electrical power
back on unless the tank is completely
full of water.
7
Remove and inspect the anode
rod (see Repair Parts Illustra-
on on back cover for locaon
of the anode rod). Replace the anode
rod if it is depleted. Turn power o. Run
hot water unl it’s cool. Turn cold water
supply valve o. Open a hot water
faucet to depressurize tank. Locate and
remove the black plasc cover marked
Anode Rod”. Use a “key hole” saw or
similar tool to remove the foam
insulaon covering the anode rod. Once
the anode rod is exposed, use a 11/16”
socket wrench with an extension to
remove it. Inspect the anode rod and
replace if depleted. Apply Thread
sealant tape or pipe joint compound
and reinstall the anode rod ghtly. It is
not necessary to replace the foam
removed to access the anode. Turn cold
water supply valve on. When hot water
runs full, close hot water faucet. Check
for leaks and repair if necessary. Turn
power on.
Anode Rod. The anode rod is a sacricial
metal rod that helps reduce corrosion
and premature failure (leaks) in the tank.
The anode rod is a consumable item.
Inspect the anode rod aer the rst six
months of operaon when you drain and
24 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 25
MAINTENANCE
ush the tank. Replace the anode rod if
it is substanally worn out or depleted.
Thereaer, inspect the anode rod an-
nually or more frequently if needed. If
you use a water soener, your anode
rod will deplete faster than normal.
Inspect the anode rod more frequently,
replacing the anode rod as needed.
Obtain new anode rods from your local
hardware stores or have a qualied
person replace it. (Anode rods are a
consumable item and are not covered
under warranty).
8
If the sediment was present
when the tank was drained,
ush the tank by opening the
cold water supply valve and leng the
water run unl no more sediment
drains from the tank. Close the drain
valve when you are done.
NOTICE: Do not turn power back on
unl the tank is completely full of wa-
ter. For complete instrucons on lling
the tank, follow Step 8 in the Installa-
on secon.
9
Rell the tank by opening the
cold water supply valve. Make
sure a hot water faucet is
open and the drain valve is closed.
Allow the hot water to run full for at
least three minutes to make sure the
tank has all the air removed and is
completely full of water. Failure to
perform this step can cause the upper
heang element to burn out. Once you
are certain the tank is completely full
of water, close the hot water faucet.
10
Restore power to the water
heater. It may take two hours
for the tank to heat up.
Replacing the Heang Element
WARNING! Working on an ener-
gized circuit can result in severe injury
or death from electrical shock. Turn
power o. Check wires with a non-
contact circuit tester to make sure
power is o. When you are nished,
be sure all covers are secured to
reduce the risk of re and electric
shock.
If you are not comfortable replacing a
heang element or thermostat your-
self, have this work done by a qualied
person. To replace the heang ele-
ment, you’ll need the following tools
and supplies:
• Always turn power OFF and check
the power wires with a non-contact
circuit tester before working on the
water heater.
Check your water heaters data plate
for the correct waage and voltage.
Heang elements are available at
most hardware stores.
Some regular sockets (1 1/2 inch)
may work, but regular sockets are
oen beveled and may slip. Inexpen-
sive element wrenches are available
at local hardware stores.
• Garden hose to drain the tank
Hand dishwashing soap to lubricate
the gasket
A clean cloth to clean the threaded
opening
A at blade and a Phillips screwdriver
Steps for Replacing the Heang
Element:
1
Turn the power OFF at the
circuit breaker or remove fuses.
2
Open the electrical juncon
box on top of the water
heater. Using a non-contact
circuit tester, check the power wires to
make certain the power is OFF.
3
Open a hot water faucet and
let the hot water run unl it is
cool.
WARNING! Be sure the water runs
cool before draining the tank to
reduce the risk of scalding.
Non-Contact Circuit Tester
Heang Element (with gasket)
Element Wrench
MAINTENANCE
background
4
Connect a garden hose to the
drain valve and place the other
end of the hose in a drain or
outside (or use buckets). Turn OFF the
cold water valve that supplies the water
heater. Open the drain valve on the
water heater. Opening a hot water
faucet will help the tank drain faster.
5
Remove the upper or lower
access panel on the water
heater, and then fold back the
insulaon and remove the plasc
element/thermostat cover.
6
With the tank drained and
power o, remove the power
wires from the element you
intend to replace.
7
Remove the bad element using
an element wrench.
8
Make sure the new element is
the correct replacement by
referring to the water heaters
data plate for voltage and waage
informaon.
9
Clean the threads in the tank
opening with a rag. Insert the
new element equipped with a
rubber gasket. NOTE: Use a drop of
hand dishwashing liquid to lubricate the
gasket to help avoid damaging the
gasket as it is being ghtened. Tighten
with an element wrench.
NOTICE: Do not turn power back on unl
the tank is completely full of water. For
complete instrucons on lling the tank,
follow Step 8 in the Installaon secon.
10
Rell the tank by opening the
cold water supply valve. Make
sure a hot water faucet is open
and the drain valve is closed. Allow the
hot water to run full for at least three
minutes to make sure the tank has all
the air removed and is completely full
of water. Failure to perform this step
can cause the upper heang element to
burn out. Once you are certain the tank
is completely full of water, close the hot
water faucet.
11
Check the newly installed
element for leaks. If a leak is
present, ghten the element
unl the leak stops. If you cannot stop
the leak, drain the tank and remove the
element. Inspect the gasket for dam-
age. If the gasket is damaged, replace
the gasket and re-install the element.
12
Once the element is success-
fully installed and there are no
leaks, replace the power wires,
thermostat cover, insulaon, and access
panel. Make sure all wire connecons
are ght. Replace the cover on the
electrical juncon box.
13
Restore power to the water
heater. It may take two hours
for the tank to heat up.
Replacing the Thermostat
WARNING! Working on an ener-
gized circuit can result in severe injury
or death from electrical shock. Turn
power o. Check wires with a non-
contact circuit tester to make sure
power is o. When you are nished, be
sure all covers are secured to reduce
the risk of re and electric shock.
To replace the thermostat, you’ll need
the following tools and supplies:
A non-contact circuit tester. Always
turn power OFF and check with a non-
contact circuit tester before working on
the water heater.
A replacement thermostat (available
at hardware stores). Take the old
thermostat to the store to ensure the
replacement thermostat is correct.
A business card to check the gap be-
tween the thermostat and the tank
Tape and a permanent marker to
mark the wires
A at blade and a Phillips screwdriver
Steps for Replacing the
Thermostat:
1
Turn the power OFF at the
circuit breaker or remove fuses.
NOTICE: It is not necessary to drain the
tank to replace a thermostat.
2
Open the electrical juncon box
on top of the water heater. Using
a non-contact circuit tester, check
the power wires to make certain the
power is OFF.
MAINTENANCE
26 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
background
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 27
MAINTENANCE
3
Remove the upper or lower
access panel on the water
heater and carefully fold back
the insulaon and plasc element/
thermostat cover.
4
Make sure the replacement
thermostat matches the
original thermostat.
5
Mark the wires with tape so
you’ll know how to put them
back on.
6
Disconnect the wires from the
bad thermostat and remove
the thermostat from the
metal mounng clip.
7
Install the new thermostat in
the metal mounng clip.
8
Make sure the new thermo-
stat ts snuggly against the
tank. You should NOT be able
to slip a business card between the
thermostat and the tank. If you can,
bend the thermostat mounng clip
unl the thermostat ts ghtly against
the tank.
9
Aach the wires following the
wiring diagram on the water
heater’s label. Make sure all
wire connecons are ght.
10
Replace the plasc element/
thermostat cover, insulaon,
and access panel.
11
Replace the cover on the
electrical juncon box.
12
Restore power to the water
heater. It may take two hours
for the tank to heat up.
T&P Relief Valve Maintenance
Read and follow the operang and
annual maintenance instrucons
provided by the manufacturer of the
T&P Relief Valve (yellow label aached
to T&P Relief Valve). If no label is at-
tached to the T&P Relief Valve, follow
the instrucons in this secon. Miner-
als in the water can form deposits
that cause the valve to sck or create
blocked passages, making the T&P
Relief Valve inoperave. Follow these
guidelines:
At least annually, operate the T&P
Relief Valve manually to ensure the
waterways are clear and the valve
mechanism moves freely (above).
Before operang the valve manually,
check that it will discharge in a place
for secure disposal. If water does
not ow freely from the end of the
discharge pipe, turn OFF the power
to the water heater. Call a qualied
person to determine the cause.
WARNING! Hot water will be
released. Before operang the T&P
relief valve manually, check that it will
discharge in a safe place. If water does
not ow freely from the end of the
discharge pipe, turn the power to the
water heater OFF. Call a qualied
person to determine the cause.
At least every ve years, have a quali-
ed person inspect the T&P Relief
Valve and discharge pipe. Damage
caused by corrosive water condions,
mineral deposits, or other problems
can only be determined when a qual-
ied person removes and inspects
the valve and its components.
Note that a dripping T&P Relief Valve
is usually caused by the home’s water
pressure being too high or the lack
of a Thermal Expansion Tank. If your
T&P Relief Valve drips, see page 24.
MAINTENANCE
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NOTES
28 • Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
NOTES
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Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 29
NOTES
NOTES
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Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 30
DIAGRAMS
Thermostat Wiring Diagram
120
V
1500*
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
4500
5000
5500
15
20
30
30
-
-
-
-
-
WATT
LOAD
BRANCH CIRCUIT SIZING GUIDE
Based on N.E.C. NFPA NO. 70 - 1999
15
15
15
20
20
25
30
30
15
15
15
15
20
20
25
30
30
208
V
240
V
Recommend
Over Current
Protection Rating
12
10
10
8
-
-
-
-
-
14
14
14
12
10
10
10
10
14
14
14
12
12
10
10
10
10
120
V
208
V
240
V
Copper Wire Size
AWG Based on
N.E.C.
Table 310 - 16 C)
Wattages less than 1500 may be wired 14 gage with a maximum
15 amp protection.
ELECTRONIC
THERMOSTAT (ET)
FUSED DISCONNECT
OR CIRCUIT BREAKER
L 1
L 3
L 4
T 4
T 2
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
UPPER
ELEMENT
LOWER
ELEMENT
GROUND
SCREW
ELECTRICAL
SERVICE
GROUND
RED
BLACK
YELLOW
RED
BLACK
BLUE
ON
JUNCTION
BOX COVER
BLACK - 4 WIRESBLACK - 2 WIRES
SMART GRID
WIRE HARNESS
GREEN
BLACK
RED
DIAGRAMS
100263189
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Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 31
REPAIR PARTS
Repair Part Illustraon
REPAIR PARTS
Repair Parts
Repair parts may be ordered through your plumber,
local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling
Technical Assistance Hotline which is listed on the water
heater’s warranty sheet. When ordering repair parts,
always give the following information:
1. Model, serial and product number
2. Item number
3. Parts description
Repair Parts List
Legend
Special anode rod (See page 25)
Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve is required, but may not
be factory installed.
2
3
4
5
6
3
7
8
10
9
12
13
1
14
11
15
16
PARTS DESCRIPTION
1 ACCESS DOOR
2 UPPER ELEMENT
3 ELEMENT GASKET
4 ELECTRONIC THERMOSTAT (ET)
5 ACCESS DOOR
6 LOWER ELEMENT
7 DRAIN VALVE
8 TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
9 JUNCTION BOX COVER
10 DIP TUBE (INCLUDES NIPPLE AND HEAT TRAP)
11 ANODE ROD
12 THERMISTOR SENSOR
13 SMART GRID WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY
14 HEAT TRAP
15 TOP TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
16 HEAT TRAP/ANODE ROD COMBINATION
ITEM
No.
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All Rights Reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
Limited Warranty provided by Manufacturer.

Specifications

State Water Heater EN6-50-DORT 130 Questions and Answers