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F Ref a
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10. OPEN THE BYPASS VALVE
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12. TURN ICEMAKER ON
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11. CONNECT TO REFRIGERATOR
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CONNECTING THE WATER LINECONNECTING THE WATER LINE
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR
Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old
one did not make. Most of the new sounds are normal.
Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can
make the sounds seem louder than they actually are.
The following describes the kinds of sounds you may
hear and what may be causing them..
Clicking:
The defrost control will click when the automatic defrost
cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or
refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also
click when cycling on and off.
Rattling:
Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant,
the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator.
Whooshing:
Popping:
Contraction and expansion of the inside walls.
Sizzling:
Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost
cycle.
Vibrating Noise:
If the side or back
of the refrigerator is touching a cabinet
or wall, some of the normal vibrations may make an
audible sound. To eliminate the noise, make sure that the
sides and back cannot vibrate against any wall or cabinet.
Dripping:
Water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle.
Pulsating or High-Pitched Sound:
Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep
your food items at the desired temperature. The high
efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to
run longer than your old one, but is still more energy
efficient than previous models. While the refrigerator is
running, it is normal to hear a pulsating or high-pitched
sound.
Gurgling:
As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound
caused by the refrigerant flowing through the cooling
system.
Evaporator fan motor circulating
the air through the
refrigerator and freezer compartments.
Air being forced over the condenser by the condenser
fan.
Ice compartment fan in the freezer on the left side of
the refrigerator when the doors are open.
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