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7
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Problem
Solution
The freezer has no power
Power cord isn’t plugged in properly.
The circuit breaker tripped or a blown fuse.
Try a different power point.
Compressor runs all the
time
The room temperature is hotter than normal.
A large amount of food has been added to the Freezer.
The door is opened too often.
The door is not closed completely.
The temperature control is not set correctly.
The door gasket does not seal properly.
The Freezer does not have the correct clearances.
The Freezer has recently been disconnected for a period
of time. 6+ hours are required for the Freezer to cool
down completely pending on operating conditions.
Temperature inside the
Freezer is too cold.
Temperature control is set too cold. Turn the control to a
warmer setting and allow several hours for the
temperature to stabilize.
Temperature of external
Freezer side walls are
warm.
The exterior Freezer walls can be as much as 15-20
degrees warmer than room temperature.
This is normal while the compressor works to transfer
heat from inside the Freezer cabinet to the condenser
behind the Freezer side walls.
Popping or cracking sound
when compressor comes on.
Metal parts undergo expansion and contraction, as in
hot water pipes. This is normal. Sound will level off or
disappear as Freezer continues to run.
Bubbling or gurgling sound,
like water boiling.
Refrigerant (used to cool Freezer) is circulating
throughout the system. This is normal operation.
Vibrations.
Check the Freezer is on a level/even surface.
Freezer rocks on the floor when it is moved slightly. Be
sure floor can adequately support Freezer.
Level the Freezer by putting wood or metal shims under
part of the Freezer.
The Freezer is touching the wall. Re-level the Freezer and
move it from the wall. See “Installation Instructions”.
Moisture forms on outside
of Freezer.
Door is slightly open, causing cold air from inside the
Freezer to meet warm moist air from the outside.
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