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The heating process in the heater begins immediately upon powering on, and setting the desired
temperature above the ambient temperature. A noticeable change in the l room’s ambient temperature will
vary. Remember that with any type of heating process, there are many variables: Location of heater (in the
home), floor plan and size of the room, how well the room is insulated, how many doors/windows, how much
bare concrete (acts as a heat sink with any type of heating), the opening and closing of an exterior door,
long hallways, high ceilings, etc. Customers with smaller rooms experience quick heat changes. Rooms with
larger and open floor plans can expect up to 24 hours to completely heat up.
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Definitely NOT! If you don’t have a grounded outlet, contact a certified electrician for advice. Removing or
altering any part of the heater’s original design or intent (including the power cord) will not only void the
warranty, but will make you liable for any unexpected or hazardous results.
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This is completely normal. The temperature display on your heater may vary from the temperature display
on another thermostat (like the one mounted to your wall or a purchased external thermostat). This is
because the temperature sensor on the heater reads the temperature directly around the heater. With the
heater near the cold floor (and heat rising), any readings on elevated or external thermostats will differ in
readings on the heater. The best way to operate your heater is just to set the unit on “High” and dial up to a
temperature that feels comfortable to you. Then, leave it at that temperature, regardless of the mismatch.
The heater will cycle off when the set temperature is met or exceeded slightly.
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The answer to these is the same. Yes. You will be able to use it, but keep in mind that rooms/structures with
open floor plans, minimal insulation, adjacent rooms, or high ceilings will not retain the heat as efficiently,
and noticeable heat changes will come slowly. Also, the heater will stay on for longer periods of time (since it
takes so long to cycle off), and may increase your electric costs. Note that if you do use it in a garage or
basement, the moisture levels must be very low and the heater must have a dedicated circuit (15 amps
minimum) with no GFCI outlets being used. If unsure what a GFCI outlet is, contact a certified electrician.
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Yes. But make sure they are not plugged into the same circuit. Each heater (heaters are considered
appliances, and draw out high amperage) requires its own minimum 15 amp circuit (with no other items
plugged into that circuit or outlet). If unsure your circuit meets these requirements, verify with a certified
electrician. Risk of fire, damage to property, or injury may result if requirements are not met.
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