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BEFORE YOU BEGIN
This water line installation is not warranted by the
refrigerator or icemaker manufacturer or retailer. Follow
these instructions carefully to minimize the risk of
expensive water damage.
Water hammer (water banging in the pipes) in house
plumbing can cause damage to refrigerator parts and lead
to water leakage or flooding. Call a qualified plumber to
correct water hammer before installing the water supply
line to the refrigerator.
To prevent burns and product damage, do not hook up
the water line to the hot water line.
If you use your refrigerator before connecting the water
line, make sure the icemaker power switch is in the OFF
(O) position.
Do not install the icemaker tubing in areas where
temperatures fall below freezing.
When using any electrical device (such as a power drill)
during installation, be sure the device is double-insulated
or grounded in a manner to prevent the hazard of electric
shock, or is battery-powered.
If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is
connected to your cold water supply, this water line
installation is not warranted by the refrigerator or icemaker
manufacturer or retailer. Follow next instructions carefully
to minimize the risk of expensive water damage.
If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is
connected to your cold water supply, the water pressure
to the reverse osmosis system needs to be a minimum of
40 to 60 psi (2.8 Kgf/cm 2~ 4.2 Kgf/cm 2,less than
2.0~3.0sec to fill a cup of 7oz capacity).
If the water pressure from the reverse osmosis system is
less than 21 psi (1.5 Kgf/cm 2,more than 4.0sec to fill a
cup of 7oz capacity):
Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse
osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.
Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to
refill after heavy usage.
If the issue about water pressure from reverse osmosis
remains, call a licensed, qualified plumber.
All installations must be in accordance with local plumbing
code requirements.
NOTE: Wear eye protection.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
• Copper Tubing, 1/4" outer
diameter to connect the refrigerator
to the water supply. Be sure both
ends of the tubing are cut square.
To determine how much tubing you need, measure
the distance from the water valve on the back of the
refrigerator to the water supply pipe. Then add 8 feet
(2.4 m). Be sure there is sufficient extra tubing (about
8 feet [2.4 m] coiled into 3 turns of about 10" [25 cm]
diameter) to allow the refrigerator to move out from the
wall after installation.
• A cold water supply. The water pressure must be
between 20 and 120 p.s.i, on models without a water
filter and between 40 and 120 p.s.i, on models with a
water filter.
• Power drill.
• 1/2" or adjustable wrench.
• Straight- and Phillips-
blade screwdriver.
• Two 1/4" outer diameter
compression nuts and
2 ferrules (sleeves) to
connect the copper tubing to
the shutoff valve and the
refrigerator water valve.
• If your existing copper water
line has a flared fitting at the
end, you will need an
adapter (available at
plumbing supply stores) to
connect the water line to the
refrigerator OR you can
cut off the flared fitting with a tube cutter and then use
a compression fitting.
• Shutoff valve to connect to
the cold water line. The
shutoff valve should have a
water inlet with a minimum
inside diameter of 5/32" at
the point of connection to the
COLD WATER LINE. Saddle-
type shutoff valves are included in many water supply
kits. Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve
complies with your local plumbing codes.
NOTE: Self-piercing saddle-type water valve should not
be used.
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