READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45931A
Printed in Canada 2021-06-22
Installation and Operation Manual
Escape 1800-I Insert
(DB03125, DB03127K and DB03128K models)
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD INSERT COMPLIANT WITH
2020 CORD WOOD STANDARD
Safety tested according to ULC S628,
UL 737 and UL 1482 Standards
by an accredited laboratory
www.drolet.ca
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, De Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
After-sale service: 418-908-8002 E-mail: tech@sbi-international.com
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted
document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual from
time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages arising out of the
use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized sources.
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2
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS DROLET WOOD INSERT
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace
manufacturers, Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all
its products. We want to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from
this insert as you build and maintain fires and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by
professionals who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute
®
) or
in Canada by WETT (Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association
des Professionnels du Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
If this insert is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To
reduce the risk of fire, follow the installation instructions in this manual exactly.
Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection
requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new insert. You may need to
get a building permit for the installation of this insert and the chimney that it is connected to.
Consult your municipal building department or fire department before installation. We
recommend that you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the installation
will affect your policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We recommend that
a primary heat source also be available in the home. The manufacturer cannot be
responsible for costs associated with the use of another heating system.
Dealer : _______________________________________________
Installer : ______________________________________________
Phone number : ________________________________________
SERIAL NUMBER: _______________
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Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ............................... 7
1. Safety Information .................................................................... 7
2. General Information ................................................................. 8
2.1 Appliance performance
(1)
......................................................................................... 8
2.2 Specifications .......................................................................................................... 9
2.3 EPA Certification Loading ..................................................................................... 11
2.4 Zone Heating and How to Make It Work for You ................................................... 12
2.5 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency ............................................. 13
2.6 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment .............................................. 13
2.6.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of? ................................................................... 13
3. Fuel .......................................................................................... 14
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ................................................................ 14
3.1.1 What is Good Firewood? ................................................................................... 14
3.1.2 Tree Species ..................................................................................................... 14
3.1.3 Log Length ........................................................................................................ 15
3.1.4 Piece Size ......................................................................................................... 15
3.1.5 How to Dry Firewood ......................................................................................... 15
3.1.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ................................................................. 16
3.2 Manufactured Logs ................................................................................................ 17
4. Operating Your Insert ............................................................. 17
4.1 The use of a fire screen. ........................................................................................ 17
4.2 Your First Fires ...................................................................................................... 17
4.3 Lighting Fires ......................................................................................................... 18
4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting ................................................................................. 18
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire ........................................................................................... 18
4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs .............................................................................................. 19
4.3.4 Using Fire Starters ............................................................................................ 19
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires ......................................................................................... 19
4.4.1 General Advice .................................................................................................. 19
4.4.2 Ash Removal ..................................................................................................... 20
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal ................................................................................................ 20
4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot ................................................................................ 20
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ............................................................................ 21
4.5 Blower Operation ................................................................................................... 22
4.5.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs ....................................................... 22
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5. Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ............................. 24
5.1 Insert Maintenance ................................................................................................ 24
5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass ......................................................................................... 24
5.1.2 Door Adjustment ............................................................................................... 25
5.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket ............................................................................... 25
5.1.4 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass .................................................. 26
5.1.5 Door Alignment ................................................................................................. 27
5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Insert ....................................................................... 28
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance ........................................................... 28
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary ............................................................... 28
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? .................................................... 28
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney ....................................................................................... 29
PART B - INSTALLATION ............................................................. 30
6. Pre-Installation Masonry fireplace requirements ................ 30
7. Safety Information .................................................................. 31
7.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation ................................................................ 31
8. Clearances to Combustible Material ..................................... 32
8.1 Location of the Certification Label ......................................................................... 32
8.2 The Masonry Fireplace’s Draft Control System (Throat Damper) ......................... 32
8.3 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf ............................................................ 33
8.4 Floor protection ..................................................................................................... 33
8.4.1 Installation raised 5" and less ........................................................................... 34
8.4.2 Installation raised more than 5" ......................................................................... 35
8.4.3 R Value ............................................................................................................. 35
8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor Protector ... 37
9. The Venting System ............................................................... 39
9.1 General .................................................................................................................. 39
9.2 Block-Off Plate ...................................................................................................... 39
9.3 Suitable Chimneys ................................................................................................ 40
9.4 Liner Installation .................................................................................................... 40
9.5 Chimney Liner Installation ..................................................................................... 41
9.5.1 If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two options.
.......................................................................................................................... 41
9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet .......................... 42
9.6 Minimum Chimney Height ..................................................................................... 42
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House ....................................... 42
9.7.1 Why the Chimney Should Penetrate the Highest Heated Space ...................... 43
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9.8 Supply of Combustion Air ...................................................................................... 43
9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses ................................................................... 43
Appendix 1: Blower Installation .................................................. 44
Appendix 2: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation ............. 45
Annexe 3 : Installation des reteneurs de bûches .................... 46
Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate and Decorative Trims
Installation ............................................................................... 47
Appendix 5: Optional Cuttable Faceplate Installation .............. 50
Appendix 6: Optional Fire Screen Installation ........................... 51
Appendix 7: Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle Installation ........ 52
Appendix 8: Removal instructions ............................................. 53
Appendix 9: Exploded Diagram and Parts List .......................... 54
DROLET LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY .................................. 57
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of the
date you purchased your insert. Keep your sales invoice. We also
recommend that you register your warranty online at:
https://www.drolet.ca/en/warranty/warranty-registration/
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your insert.
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Certification Label
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7
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1. Safety Information
• Operate only with the door fully closed or fully open with the fire screen in place. If the
door is left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the opening, creating risks
from both fire and smoke.
• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE
AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR
INSERT OPERATION.
• Using an insert with cracked or broken components, such as glass or firebricks or baffles
may produce an unsafe condition and may damage the insert.
• Open the air control fully before opening the loading door.
• This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen,
sold separately. The door may be opened, or fire screen removed only during lighting
procedures or reloading. Always close the door or put back on the fire screen after
ignition. Do not leave the insert unattended when the door is opened with or without a
fire screen.
• NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL,
KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS
TO START A FIRE IN THIS INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS
WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT WHILE IT IS IN USE.
• Do not store fuel within heater minimum installation clearances.
• Burn only seasoned natural firewood.
• This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against
federal regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual
• This appliance should be maintained and operated at all times in accordance with these
instructions.
• Do not elevate the fire by means of grates, and irons or other means.
• A smoke detector, a carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher should be installed
in the house. The location of the fire extinguisher should be known by all family members.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon
monoxide, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer,
birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to
www.P65warnings.ca.gov/
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2. General Information
2.1 Appliance performance
(1)
Fuel type
Dry cordwood
Recommended heating area
[*]
500 to 2,100 ft
2
(47 to 195 m
2
)
Overall firebox volume
2.4 ft
3
(0.068 m
3
)
EPA loading volume
2.02 ft
3
(0.057 m
3
)
Maximum burn time
[*]
8 h
Maximum heat output
(2)
(dry cordwood)
75,000 BTU/h (22.0 kW)
Overall heat output rates (min. to max.)
(2)(3)
14,800 BTU/h to 28,600 BTU/h
(4.34 kW to 8.38 kW)
Average overall efficiency
(3)
– Dry Cordwood
69 % (HHV
(4)
)
74 % (LHV
(5)
)
Optimum efficiency
(2)(6)
77 %
Average particulate emissions rate
(7)
1.54 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)
(8)
Average CO
(9)
89.4 g/h
[*]
Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney
draft, heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given
appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature
in the designated area in case of a power failure.
(1)
Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume,
maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
(2)
The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft
3
and 20
lb/ft
3
. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading
density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft
3
. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.
(3)
As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
(4)
Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
(5)
Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
(6)
Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
(7)
This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
(8)
Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft
ASTM WK47329-14
(9)
Carbon monoxide.
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2.2 Specifications
Maximum log length
20 in (508 mm) east-west*
Flue outlet diameter
6 in (150 mm)
Recommended connector pipe diameter
6 in (150 mm)
Type of chimney
ULC-S635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL1777
Baffle material
Vermiculite
Approved for alcove installation
Not approved
Approved for mobile home installation
‡
Not approved
Shipping weight (without option)
392 lb (178 kg)
Appliance weight (without option)
336 lb (152 kg)
Type of door
Single, glass with cast iron frame
Type of glass
Ceramic glass
Blower
Included (up to 144 CFM)
Particulate emission standard
EPA / CSA B415.1-10**
USA standard (safety)
UL 1482, UL 737
Canadian standard (safety)
ULC S628
*
East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you
see the tips of the logs.
**
Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft
ASTM WK47329-14
‡
Mobile home (Canada) or manufactured home (USA): The US Department of Housing and Urban
Development describes “manufactured homes” better known as “mobile homes” as follows; buildings built
on fixed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent foundation. In
Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is
completed or substantially completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and
connection to service facilities and which conforms to the CAN/CSA-Z240 MH standard.
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2.3 EPA Certification Loading
For EPA Certification testing, wood logs were 16 ± 1 inches long and the specie used was
hard maple.
2.4.1 Air control
The air control is located underneath the
ash shelf. To open the air control, pull the
air control handle completely (High). This
will increase the burn rate. To close the air
control, push the air control handle
completely (Low). This will decrease the
burn rate.
2.4.2 High burn rate
Open the air control completely. Place six
small pieces (2˝x 2˝) of wood in the firebox
crossing them at the greatest possible
angle. Criss cross fifteen kindling wood
pieces on the small pieces of wood in
three layers at the greatest possible
angle.
Tie knot with five sheets of paper and place them on top of the kindling wood. Light up the
paper and let the door ajar at 90° until all the kindling wood is on fire and the first row of
small pieces of wood is on fire too. Close the door. When there is no more fire in the front of
the firebox and there are only faint flames on the wood in the back of the firebox, break
ashes, level the coal bed and put five logs in the firebox. Place the biggest log (about 4˝x 4˝)
at the back in an East-West orientation. Place a medium log (about 3˝x 3˝) on top of the
biggest one. Place another medium on coal bed on front of the biggest with another medium
on top of it. Place the last medium one in front. If you need to stack the last piece over the
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ash lip, make sure you always leave at least 1 5/8 inch between the last log and the inner
wall of the combustion chamber. There should be air space between each log and between
the logs and the bricks. Let the door ajar at 90° for approximately two minutes and then close
the door.
2.4.3 Medium and low burn rate
On a 2˝coal bed that is still slightly red, place five logs of approximatively 4˝x 4˝ or 3˝x 3˝
with an East- West orientation. Place a medium log at the back. Place the biggest log in the
center with a medium one on top of it. Place a medium on the front and another medium on
top of it. If you need to stack the front pieces over the ash lip, make sure you always leave
at least 1 5/8 inch between the last log and the inner wall of the combustion chamber. There
should be air space between each log and between the logs and the bricks. Let the door
ajar at 90° for approximately 5 min. Then, close the door with the primary air control open.
Leave to burn with the primary air control open for approximately 10 minutes and then close
the primary air control completely for the low burn rate and halfway for the medium burn
rate.
2.4 Zone Heating and How to Make It Work for You
Your new Escape 1800-I wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat
the area it is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower
temperature. This is called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes
or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular
space within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat
source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized
and located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is located
in the part of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main
living area where the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the insert in
this area, you will get the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the
highest possible heating efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of your
time will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this
way, you will burn less wood than with other forms of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric
heating system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing
and location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone.
Three-season vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that
are heated all winter.
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2.5 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Escape 1800-I insert
firebox mean that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside
environment than if you used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission
control technologies than protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content
of the fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from
the wood instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox
allow you to reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient
flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work
properly if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section
3 of this manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.6 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to
use only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the
environment.
2.6.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of?
The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new
products, thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds)
is very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the
manufacturing process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction
or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
Vermiculite is used for the baffle. Vermiculite is a mineral. Large commercial mines exist in
China, Russia, South Africa, and Brazil. Potassium silicate is used as a binder to form a
rigid board. Vermiculite can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Lightweight firebrick is made of pumice and cement. Pumice is volcanic rock, a naturally
green product found in the Northwest United States. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets
have been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 4 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made
of natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a
high temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass,
so it should not be disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill
is recommended.
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3. Fuel
MATERIALS THAT SHOULD NOT BE BURNED
• GARBAGE;
• LAWN CLIPPINGS OR YARD WASTE;
• MATERIALS CONTAINING RUBBER, INCLUDING TIRES;
• MATERIALS CONTAINING PLASTIC;
• WASTE PETROLEUM PRODUCTS, PAINTS OR PAINT THINNERS, OR ASPHALT
PRODUCTS;
• MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS;
• CONSTRUCTION OR DEMOLITION DEBRIS;
• RAILROAD TIES OR PRESSURE-TREATED WOOD;
• MANURE OR ANIMAL REMAINS;
• SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD OR OTHER PREVIOUSLY SALT WATER SATURATED
MATERIALS;
• UNSEASONED WOOD; OR
• PAPER PRODUCTS, CARDBOARD, PLYWOOD, OR PARTICLEBOARD. THE
PROHIBITION AGAINST BURNING THESE MATERIALS DOES NOT PROHIBIT THE
USE OF FIRE STARTERS MADE FROM PAPER, CARDBOARD, SAW DUST, WAX
AND SIMILAR SUBSTANCES FOR THE PURPOSE OF STARTING A FIRE IN AN
AFFECTED WOOD HEATER.
BURNING THESE MATERIALS MAY RESULT IN RELEASE OF TOXIC FUMES OR
RENDER THE HEATER INEFFECTIVE AND CAUSE SMOKE.
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.1.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.1.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content.
The main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood.
Hardwoods are denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North
America usually have only spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and
yet they can heat their homes successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types
for different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather
in spring and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat. Softwoods are not as
dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods
avoids overheating the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in
moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and
longer burn cycles are desirable.
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Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer
lived than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable.
The advice that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves
wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no
longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species
and give the forest a break at the same time.
3.1.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut at least 1" (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they
fit in easily. Pieces that are even slightly too long makes loading the
insert very difficult. The most common standard length of firewood is 16"
(400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1" (25
mm) variation from piece to piece.
3.1.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry
enough to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have
the sharp edges where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3" (75 mm) should be split
to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3" to 6" (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the
firewood purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient
stoking. It is sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.1.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack
of heat and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood heating system for
concerns about creosote.
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Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
• Firewood takes a long time to dry;
• Firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry
enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood
in spring and dry it yourself;
• Drying happens faster in dry weather than in
damp, maritime climates;
• Drying happens faster in warm summer weather
than in winter weather;
• Small pieces dry more quickly than large
pieces;
• Split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds;
• Softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods;
• Softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being
stacked in the open for only the summer months;
• Hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully,
especially if the pieces are big;
• Firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and
wind; it takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed;
• Firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between 15 and 20% by weight
and will allow your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency.
3.1.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn
by using these guidelines:
• Cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry;
• As it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or
cream colored to grey or yellow;
• Bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood
sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull;
• Dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood;
• Split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels
damp, it is too wet;
• Burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your firewood.
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3.2 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated
sawdust or logs with any chemical additives. Manufactured
logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned
but use caution in the number of these logs burned at once.
Start with one manufactured log and see how the insert
reacts. Never use more than two manufactured logs.
4. Operating Your Insert
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be
altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
4.1 The use of a fire screen.
In the United States or in provinces with a particulate emission limit (eg US EPA), the
use of wood stoves with open door with and fire screen is prohibited.
This stove has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the stove to avoid any risk of
fire. When the fire screen is in use, it is important not to leave the stove unattended to
respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke
spillage are described in Section 9 The Venting System of this manual. See Appendix 5:
Optional Fire Screen Installation for installation instructions.
OPERATING WITH THE FIRE SCREEN INCREASES POSSIBILITIES OF GENERATING
CARBON MONOXIDE. CARBON MONOXIDE IS AN ODOURLESS GAS THAT IS
HIGHLY TOXIC AND WHICH CAN CAUSE DEATH AT HIGH CONCENTRATION IN AIR.
4.2 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the insert are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they
do smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when
you first light your insert, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the
house. As you burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing
temperature of the paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned
one or two very hot fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger
and hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the insert. Once the paint smell
disappears, your insert is ready for serious heating.
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4.3 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts
fast produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular
and effective ways to start wood fires.
4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood fire is to
bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain newspapers
and place them in the firebox. Next, place 10 or
so pieces of fine kindling on the newspaper.
This kindling should be very thin; less than 1”
(25 mm). Next, place some larger kindling
pieces on the fine kindling. Open the air control
fully and light the newspaper. If you have a tall,
straight venting system you should be able to
close the door immediately and the fire will
ignite. Once the fire has ignited, close the door
and leave the air control fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPEN.
ALWAYS CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you
have a fire of the right size for the conditions.
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it does not
collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up
to two hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is
well seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place
4 or 5 more finely split pieces of firewood (2" to 3" [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base
logs at right angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the
second layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff
them in between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper
knots by rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage
of knots is that they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the
fire burns from top to bottom.
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4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspapers between the
logs. Now place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across
those, log cabin style. Light the newspaper.
4.3.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspapers. Some of these
starters are made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals.
Follow the package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold
firebox to start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL,
MOTOR OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.4.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners
these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your insert. It is normal for its surface temperature to
rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the
fire progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household
routines. For example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as
when doing housework or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as
when reading or watching television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals
and ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same
size as it was when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output
by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and
preferably more, pieces on the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps
to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of wood should provide several hours of heating.
The size of each load can be matched to the amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the insert’s loading door while the wood
is flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the
insert when the door is opened as a full fire is burning.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR
CONTROL FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR
SLOWLY.
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4.4.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not
let the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively cool, but
there is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent it from
coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the insert and placed in a tightly covered metal
container, they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should
be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible
materials pending final disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay
hot for several days. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in a closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled. Other waste should not be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALLIC CONTAINER OR ON A
WOODEN DECK.
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most
of the remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals
towards the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it
concentrates them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they
can ignite the new load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new
load of wood. If you were to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for
a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so
that it will ignite the new load.
4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass.
Close the door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox
is full of flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each
load of wood hot accomplishes a few things:
• drives the surface moisture from the wood,
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• creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
• heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
• heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow
the fire to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED
HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the insert and the chimney, the
result will be a surge of heat from the insert. This heat surge is welcome when the room
temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm.
Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little
before loading. Letting the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning
and effective zone heating.
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for
a steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate
slows down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the
flow rate of exhaust through the insert and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for
the transfer of heat from the exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the
flames slow down. This is your indication that the insert is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost
disappear when you turn down the air,
you have turned down the air too early, or
your firewood is wetter than it should be.
With good fuel and correct air control use,
the flames should slow down, but should
stay large and steady, even as the air
supply is reduced.
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4.5 Blower Operation
The blower has a rheostat that can be adjusted in three different
positions; either from high (HI) to low (LO) or closed (OFF).
Allow the insert to reach operating temperature (approximately
one hour) before turning on the blower, since increased airflow
from the blower will remove heat and affect the start-up
combustion efficiency.
Since your insert’s blower is equipped with a heat sensor, when the blower is ON, the blower
will start automatically when the insert is hot enough and it will stop when the insert has
cooled down. Therefore, you can leave the blower speed control at the desired setting.
NOTE: ENSURE THE BLOWER CORD IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH ANY SURFACE OF
THE INSERT TO PREVENT ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE DAMAGE. DO NOT RUN
CORD BENEATH THE INSERT.
4.5.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs
Using the air control is not the only way to match the insert’s heat output to the heat demand.
Your house will need far less heat in October than in January to be kept at a comfortable
temperature. If you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat the space or
turn the insert down so much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here are some
suggestions for building fires to match different heat demand.
4.5.1.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and
load them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3” to 4” in diameter. After
raking the coals, you can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to corner in the firebox
and lay two more across them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only
reduce the air after the wood is fully flaming. This kind of fire is good for mild weather when
you are around to tend the insert and should provide enough heat for four hours or more.
Small fires like this are a good time to use softer wood species so there will be less chance
of overheating the house.
4.5.1.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires
Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense heat.
In this case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the pieces
are packed tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully char
the log surfaces before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming brightly
before leaving the fire to burn.
4.5.1.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather
When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily and
brightly. This is the time to use larger pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put the biggest
pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built
fire like this will produce the longest burn your insert is capable of.
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You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down
too much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving the
fire to burn.
4.5.1.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption
of that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for
roughly the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which
there is little or no flame. The length of burn you can expect from your insert, including both
the flaming and coal bed phases, will be affected by a number of things, such as:
• firebox size,
• the amount of wood loaded,
• the species of wood you burn,
• the wood moisture content,
• the size of the space to be heated,
• the climate zone you live in, and
• the time of year.
The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you are
likely to experience, based on firebox volume.
FIREBOX VOLUME
MAXIMUM
BURN TIME
<1.5 cubic feet
3 to 5 hours
1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f
5 to 6 hours
2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f.
6 to 8 hours
2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f.
8 to 9 hours
>3.0 c.f.
9 to 10 hours
Long burn times are not necessarily an indication of efficient insert operation. When you are
home during the day and able to tend the fire, it is preferable to build a smaller fire that might
provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer burn.
Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the insert to the heat demand
for the space.
4.5.1.5 North-South Fires Versus East-West Fires
In fireboxes that are roughly square, wood can be loaded so that looking through the glass
door you see the ends of the logs (north-south) or the sides of the logs (east-west).
East-west loads that are built compactly break down slowly when heated, but the amount of
wood you can load is limited because if you put in too many pieces, one may fall against the
glass. East-west loads are excellent for long, low output fires for relatively mild weather.
North-south loads break down more quickly, but much more wood can be loaded at a time.
This makes north-south loading good for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather.
4.5.1.6 Carbon Monoxide
When unburned logs remain in the firebox and the flame disappears, go outside and look at
the chimney exit. If there is visible smoke, it means that there is still combustible to burn but
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that the fire lacks air to burn properly. In this situation, the CO rate will increase so it is
important to react. Open the door slightly and move the log with a poker. Turn it over and
create a passage for the air below, making a trench with the coal bed. Add small pieces of
wood to restart the combustion.
5. Maintaining Your Wood Heating System
5.1 Insert Maintenance
Your new insert will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it correctly.
Some of the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air tubes, will
wear over time under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts with original
parts (see Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List). Firing each load hot to begin
a cycle as described above will not cause premature deterioration of the insert. However,
letting the insert run with the air control fully open for the entire burn cycles can cause
damage over time. The hotter you run the insert throughout burn cycles, the more quickly
its components will deteriorate. For that reason, never leave the insert unattended while
a new load is being fired hot.
5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass
Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is dry
enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty deposit will
form on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and can be easily
removed when the insert is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel and then drying.
Never try to clean the glass when the insert is hot.
In spring and fall when the insert is run at lower temperatures, you may see some light brown
stains forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the fire has
been smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the weather is mild,
you may find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a continuous fire. Use
the technique described above for building a fire to take the chill off the house.
If you do get brown stains on the glass, you can remove them with special cleaners for wood
heater glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your insert’s door glass.
The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and how
well you are doing in operating the insert. Your goal should be clear glass with no brown
stains. If you continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel and
operating procedure needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete
combustion of the wood, which also means more smoke emissions and faster formation of
creosote in the chimney.
If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket
around the glass. Visit your insert retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and follow
the instructions below for installation.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if the
glass is broken.
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5.1.2 Door Adjustment
In order for your stove to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a
perfect seal with the firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected
periodically to check for a good seal. The gasket seal may be improved with a
simple latch mechanism adjustment. To adjust:
1. Remove the split pin by pulling and turning it using pliers.
2. Turn the handle counter clock wise one turn to increase pressure.
3.
Re-install the split pin with a small hammer.
5.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket
It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the door
gasket will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can test the
condition of the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper. Test all
around the door. If the paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the gasket.
Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter
and density of the gasket is important to getting a good seal.
Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet.
Remove the old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver.
Then use the screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 1/4”
(6 mm) bead of high temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the middle
of the hinge side, press the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as you place
it. Leave the gasket about 1/2” long when you cut it and press the end into the groove. Tuck
any loose fibres under the gasket and into the silicone. Close the door and do not use the
insert for 24 hours.
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5.1.4 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass
It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket when the door gasket is replaced. The gasket
is flat, adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the glass retaining screws (A), the clips
(B) and the metal frame (C). Lift out the glass (D) and pull off the old gasket. This is a good
time to clean the glass thoroughly.
The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a section
of the paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the adhesive side
up. Stick the end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the edge of the glass
down onto the gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the gasket. Peel off more of
the backing and rotate the glass and press the next section onto the gasket. Do not stretch
the gasket as you place it. Continue until you get to the start and trim the gasket to length.
Now pinch the gasket to the glass in a U shape, all around the glass. Reinstall the glass,
being careful to centre the glass carefully in the door. Do not over-tighten the screws. Note
that the two main causes of broken door glass are uneven placement in the door and over-
tightening of retaining screws.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if the glass
is broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
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5.1.5 Door Alignment
To align, open the door and loosen the pressures screws located on the lower and upper
hinges of the door using a 3/32” Allen key to free the adjustable hinge rods.
Using a flat screwdriver, turn the adjustable hinge rods in the direction shown to adjust the
doors. Tighten all door hinge pressure screws when they are at the desired positions.
Configurations 1-2-3-4-5-6, show in which direction these act on the adjustment of the door.
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5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Insert
Do not attempt to clean or paint the insert when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces can
be wiped down with a damp cloth. Plated surfaces may be scratched by abrasive cleaners.
To maintain the finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth to clean plated
surfaces.
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood insert a brand new look
by repainting it with heat-resistant paint. Before painting, roughen the surface with fine sand
paper, wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of paint. For best results, use
the same paint that was originally used on the insert, which is available in spray cans. See
your dealer for details.
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary
Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney liner and chimney, forming a combustible
deposit called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting system, it can ignite
when a hot fire is burned in the insert and a very hot fire can progress to the top of the
chimney. Severe chimney fires can damage even the best chimneys. Smouldering, smoky
fires can quickly cause a thick layer of creosote to form. When you avoid smouldering so the
exhaust from the chimney is mostly clear, creosote builds up more slowly. Your new insert
has the right characteristics to help you to burn clean fires with little or no smoke, resulting
in less creosote in the chimney.
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?
It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It is
important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to the
new insert until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms slowly
in your system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
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Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a
chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney
Chimney cleaning can be a difficult and
dangerous job. If you don’t have
experience cleaning chimneys, you
might want to hire a professional
chimney sweep to clean and inspect
the system for the first time. After
having seen the cleaning process, you
can decide if it is a job you would like to
take on.
The most common equipment used are
fibreglass rods with threaded fittings
and stiff plastic brushes. The brush is
forced up and down inside the chimney
flue to scrub off the creosote.
The chimney should be checked
regularly for creosote build-up.
Inspection and cleaning of the chimney
can be facilitated by removing the
baffle.
CAUTION: OPERATION OF YOUR ESCAPE 1800-I INSERT WITHOUT THE BAFFLE
MAY CAUSE UNSAFE AND HAZARDOUS TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS
AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.
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PART B - INSTALLATION
6. Pre-Installation Masonry fireplace requirements
The masonry fireplace must meet the minimum requirements found in the building code
enforced locally, or the equivalent for a safe installation. Contact your local Building
Inspector for requirements in your area. An inspection of the fireplace should include the
following:
1. CONDITION OF THE FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY:
The masonry fireplace and chimney should be inspected prior to installation, to determine
that they are free from cracks, loose mortar, creosote deposits, blockage, or other signs
of deterioration. If evidence of deterioration is noted, the fireplace or chimney should be
upgraded and/or cleaned prior to installation.
Masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke shelf and
adjacent damper frame if necessary to accommodate the insert’s chimney liner, provided
that their removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney, and will not
reduce protection for combustible materials to less than that required by the building
code.
2. CHIMNEY CAPS:
Mesh type chimney caps must have provision for regular cleaning, or the mesh should
be removed to eliminate the potential of plugging.
3. ADJACENT COMBUSTIBLES:
The fireplace should be inspected to make sure that there is adequate clearance to
combustibles, both exposed combustibles to the top, side, and front as well as concealed
combustibles, in the chimney and mantle area. Your local inspector should have
information on whether older fireplaces are of adequate construction.
4. OPENING SIZE:
Refer to Section 8.5, “MINIMUM MASONRY OPENING” for suitable size fireplace
openings.
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7. Safety Information
• THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE
APPLIANCE ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY
OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES
AND/OR WEB SITES).
• MIXING OF APPLIANCE COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR
MODIFYING COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. WHERE
ANY SUCH CHANGES ARE PLANNED, STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC.
SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
• ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND
ANSI NFPA 211 (USA).
• CONNECT THIS INSERT ONLY TO A LISTED STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER
FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL.
• IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE
ROOM.
• DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCTWORK UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.
• DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER
APPLIANCE.
• THE INSERT AND ITS STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER ARE TO BE INSTALLED
ONLY WITHIN A LINED MASONRY CHIMNEY AND MASONRY FIREPLACE
CONFORMING TO BUILDING CODES FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL. DO NOT
REMOVE BRICKS OR MORTAR FROM THE EXISTING FIREPLACE WHEN
INSTALLING THE INSERT.
7.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation
When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the Escape 1800-I wood
insert is suitable for use in residential installations. The Escape 1800-I wood insert is not
intended for installation in a bedroom.
In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and
Equipment and the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the
absence of local code requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for
Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70
National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code requirements.
This insert must be installed with a continuous chimney liner of 6” diameter extending from
the insert to the top of the chimney. The chimney liner must conform to the Class 3
requirements of CAN/ULC-S635, Standard for Lining Systems for Existing Masonry or
Factory-built Chimneys and Vents, or CAN/ULC-S640, Standard for Lining Systems for New
Masonry Chimneys, UL1777, Standard for Safety for Chimney Liners.
NOTE: The Insert is not approved for use with a so-called “positive flue connection” to the
clay tile of a masonry chimney.
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8. Clearances to Combustible Material
The clearances shown in this section have been determined by tests according to
procedures set out in safety standards ULC S628 (Canada), UL1482 (U.S.A.) and UL737
(U.S.A.). When the insert is installed so that its surfaces are at or beyond the minimum
clearances specified, combustible surfaces will not overheat under normal and even
abnormal operating conditions.
No part of the insert may be located closer to combustibles than the minimum
clearance figures given.
8.1 Location of the Certification Label
Since the information given on the certification label attached to the appliance always
overrides the information published in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues, flyers,
magazines and web sites), it is important to refer to it in order to have a safe and compliant
installation. In addition, you will find information about your insert (model, serial number,
etc.). You can find the certification label to the front on the outside of the air jacket of the
insert.
To access the certification label, the faceplate may need to be removed. Therefore, we
recommend that you note the insert’s serial number on this manual, since it will be needed
to precisely identify the version of the appliance in the event you require replacement parts
or technical assistance.
8.2 The Masonry Fireplace’s Draft Control System (Throat Damper)
If the fireplace's draft control system is to remain in the masonry fireplace, it must be locked
open for access of the chimney liner or removed entirely. If you remove the draft control
system from the masonry hearth, you will need to install the metal plate (27009), supplied with
the owner’s manual kit, indicating that the masonry hearth has been modified. It must be
secured inside the masonry hearth, in a visible place and easy to locate.
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8.3 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf
It is possible to install a combustible shelf with a maximum depth of 12" at a height of at least
27" above the insert. At a height of more than 27 ", the shelf must still have a depth of 12"
maximum. Refer to the following figure.
MAXIMUM MANTEL
SHELF DIMENSION
(X)
MANTEL SHELF
CLEARANCES
(I)
12" (305 mm) max
27" (686 mm) min
8.4 Floor protection
It is necessary to have a floor protection made of non-combustible materials that meets the
measurements specified in the table “floor protection” from section 8.5. To determine the
need to add floor protection (D) beyond the hearth extension, you must do the following
calculation using the data in the table below: D = B - (A - C).
Data for Floor Protection Calculation
MAXIMUM
EXTENDED
A
B
(Note 1)
C
D
E
AIR
JACKET
INCHES
Dimension of
the hearth
extension
See 8.4.1 and
8.4.2
5"
D = B - (A - C)
9"
Flush
with
fireplace
facing
MILLIMETRES
See 8.4.1 and
8.4.2
128 mm
D = B - (A - C)
228 mm
MINIMUM
EXTENDED
A
B
(Note 1)
C
D
E
AIR
JACKET
INCHES
Dimension of
the hearth
extension
See 8.4.1 and
8.4.2
3"
D = B - (A - C)
11"
Back
from
fireplace
facing
2"
(51 mm)
MILLIMETRES
See 8.4.1 and
8.4.2
77 mm
D = B - (A - C)
279 mm
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If the value (D) is negative or zero, you do not have to add more floor protection in front of
the unit, because the masonry fireplace hearth extension is large enough. If the value (D) is
positive, you will need floor protection in front of the hearth extension at least equivalent to
the result (D).
8.4.1 Installation raised 5" and less
If non-combustible material floor protection needs to be added in front of, and level with the
hearth extension of the masonry fireplace (F = 5" and less), an R factor equal to or greater
than 1.00 is required and should extend at least 23" (584 mm) in front of the unit (B).
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8.4.2 Installation raised more than 5"
If the extension of the masonry hearth is raised at least 5" (127 mm) from the floor protection
(F), a non-combustible material without an R value must extend at least 16" (406 mm USA)
or 18” (457 mm Canada) in front of the unit (B).
8.4.3 R Value
There are two ways to calculate the R factor of the floor protection. First, by adding the R-
values of materials used, or by the conversion if the K factor and thickness of the floor
protection are given.
To calculate the total R factor from R factors of the materials used, simply add the R-values
of materials. If the result is equal to or greater than the R-value requirements, the
combination is acceptable. To know the R-values of some selected materials, see table
Thermal Characteristics of Common Floor Protection Materials.
Example:
Required floor protection R of 1.00. Proposed materials: four inches of brick and one inch
of Durock
®
board
Four inches of brick (R = 4 x 0,2 = 0,8) plus 1 inch of Durock
®
(R = 1 x 0.52 = 0.52).
0.8 + 0.52 = 1.32.
This R value is larger than the required 1.00 and is therefore acceptable
In the case of a known K and thickness of alternative materials to be used in combination,
convert all K values to R by dividing the thickness of each material by its K value. Add R
values of your proposed materials as shown in the previous example.
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Example:
K value = 0.75
Thickness = 1
R value = Thickness/K = 1/0.75 = 1.33
Thermal Characteristics of Common Floor Protection Materials*
MATERIAL
CONDUCTIVITY (k)
PER INCH
RESISTANCE (R) PER INCH
THICKNESS
Micore
®
160
0.39
2.54
Micore
®
300
0.49
2.06
Durock
®
1.92
0.52
Hardibacker
®
1.95
0.51
Hardibacker
®
500
2.3
0.44
Wonderboard
®
3.23
0.31
Cement mortar
5.00
0.2
Common brick
5.00
0.2
Face brick
9.00
0.11
Marble
14.3 – 20.00
0.07 – 0.05
Ceramic tile
12.5
0.008
Concrete
1.050
0.950
Mineral wool insulation
0.320
3.120
Limestone
6.5
0.153
Ceramic board (Fibremax)
0.450
2.2
Horizontal still air** (1/8")
0.135
0,920**
* Information as reported by manufacturers and other resources
** For a 1/8" thickness. You cannot «stack» horizontal still air to accumulate R-values; you must separate each
layer of horizontal still air with another non-combustible material.
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8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor
Protector
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CLEARANCES
F
16" (406 mm)
G
9" (229 mm)
H
27" (686 mm)
I
27" (686 mm)
MINIMUM MASONRY
OPENING
J
23 3/8" (594 mm)
K
28 7/8" (733 mm)*
L
15 3/4" (400 mm)
MAXIMUM THICKNESS
O
5" (127 mm)
P
12" (305 mm)
FLOOR PROTECTION
CANADA
USA
B
18" (457 mm) – Note1
16" (406 mm) – Note 1
M
8" (203 mm)
N/A (Canada only)
N
N/A (USA only)
8" (203 mm)
Minimum floor to ceiling clearance: 84" (213 cm)
* Where a fresh air intake is needed, we suggest you add a minimum of 4’’ to the width of
the minimum masonry opening.
Note 1: From door opening. The depth of the hearth extension in front of the insert is
included in the calculation of the floor protector’s dimensions. The masonry hearth should
be at least 5" (127 mm) higher than the combustible floor in front of it and a floor protection
must extend at least 16" (406 mm USA) and at least 18" (457 mm Canada) without an R
value. If the hearth elevation is lower than 5" (127 mm), the non-combustible floor protector
in front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than 1.00 and shall extend 23"
(584 mm) in front of the unit.
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9. The Venting System
9.1 General
The venting system, made up of the chimney and the liner inside the chimney, acts as the
engine that drives your wood heating system. Even the best insert will not function safely
and efficiently as intended if it is not connected to a suitable chimney and liner system.
The heat in the flue gases that pass from the insert into the chimney is not waste heat. This
heat is what the chimney uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air, keeps smoke
inside the insert and safely vents exhaust to outside. You can think of heat in the flue gas
as fuel the chimney uses to make draft.
9.2 Block-Off Plate
To reduce the possibility of a cold air draft from the masonry chimney to get into the room
when the insert in not working, the installation of a sheet metal block-off plate ((A) in the
drawing below) is recommended. Once you have made the block-off plate to the proper
dimension, cut the pipe hole slightly larger than the liner’s diameter and then install the liner
through this hole. Set the Block-off plate in place and secure with masonry nails into mortar
joints. Finally, seal the joints between the plate and the wall with high temperature silicone,
and then use stove-furnace cement to seal between the pipe and the hole.
In Canada, CSA B365 Standard permits the use of ‘’Roxul’’ type wool stuffed around the
liner as it passes through the throat area as an alternative to a sheet metal block-off plate.
However, this method is inferior to the use of a sheet metal block-off plate.
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9.3 Suitable Chimneys
Your wood insert will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6"
diameter chimney liner. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at least 5"
(Canada only) is permitted, if it allows the proper venting of combustion gases and that such
application is verified and authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the diameter of the
flue should be 6". The reduction of the liner diameter to less than 6" should only be done if
the total height of the masonry chimney is greater than 20 feet.
9.4 Liner Installation
We recommend the use of a chimney liner
(rigid or flexible) to ensure satisfactory
performance. To ensure an optimal draft,
we also strongly recommend adding a
minimum of 12" rigid liner between the top
of the masonry chimney and the rain cap.
In all cases, liners should be installed in
accordance with the liner manufacturer’s
instructions, including instructions for
extension above the masonry.
Use Listed Chimney Liners – UL 1777,
ULC S635 or CAN/ULC S640.
In order to connect the insert to the liner,
refer to section 9.5 Chimney liner
installation.
ATTENTION INSTALLER: When
positioning the unit in a fireplace opening
prior to the flue installation, install the insert
into the opening until the top lip of air jacket
is flush with fireplace facing.
If lag bolts or anchors are to be used to
secure the insert, the hole locations should
be marked with the unit in place. Remove
the insert and locate the anchors.
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9.5 Chimney Liner Installation
The preferred methods for installing the chimney liner are found in Section 9.5.1. Use a liner
offset adapter (Section 9.5.2) only as a last resort.
9.5.1 If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two
options.
A) Install the chimney liner starter adapter, provided with the chimney liner. Follow the
chimney liner starter adapter manufacturer's instructions.
In order to connect the chimney liner starter adapter to the flue outlet, you can install
the brackets with the screws that are in the owner’s manual kit.
Using a powered driver, secure the three brackets with the three screws provided on
top of the insert in the three holes in front of the flue outlet. The long end of the
brackets must be attached to the insert. Insert the chimney liner into the flue collar of
the unit and secure the liner to the brackets with three self-tapping screws (not
included).
B) Your dealer may offer a liner fastening system, sold separately. Follow the installation
instructions provided with the liner fastening system.
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9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet
You can install a liner offset adapter, which is sold separately. Please note that an
offset adaptor reduces the free flow of exhaust gases and may result in smoke roll-
out from the insert when its door is open for loading. Only use an offset adaptor if a)
there is no other alternative and b) if the total height of the fireplace and chimney is
at least 20 feet. If you must install a liner offset adapter, secure the three brackets
with the three screws provided on top of the insert in the three holes in front of the
flue outlet. The long end of the brackets must be attached to the insert. The brackets
and screws are in the insert’s owner’s manual kit. Then follow the instructions in the
manual provided with the liner offset adapter kit.
9.6 Minimum Chimney
Height
The top of the chimney should
be tall enough to be above the
air turbulence caused when wind
blows against the house and its
roof. The chimney must extend
at least 1 m (3 ft.) above the
highest point of contact with the
roof, and at least 60 cm (2 ft.)
higher than any roof line or
obstacle within a horizontal
distance of 3 m (10 ft.).
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House
Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must have
the right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold back drafting when there
is no fire in the insert, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is open
for loading.
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9.7.1 Why the Chimney Should Penetrate the Highest Heated Space
When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This tendency
of warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack effect’, it
produces a slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a slightly
positive pressure zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater connected to
a chimney that is shorter than the warm space inside the house, the slight negative pressure
low in the house will compete against the desired upward flow in the chimney.
There are two reasons why the
chimney in the house at right will cold
backdraft when it is cold outside and
there is no fire burning in the insert.
First, the chimney runs up the
outside of the house, so the air in it is
colder and denser than the warm air
in the house. And second, the
chimney is shorter than the heated
space of the house, meaning the
negative pressure low in the house
will pull outside air down the
chimney, through the insert and into
the room. Even the finest insert will
not work well when connected to this
chimney.
9.8 Supply of Combustion Air
In Canada, wood inserts are not required to have a supply of combustion air from outdoors
because research has shown that these supplies do not give protection against house
depressurization and may fail to supply combustion air during windy weather. However, to
protect against the risk of smoke spillage due to house depressurization, a carbon
monoxide (CO) detector/alarm is required in the room in which the insert is installed. The
CO detector will provide warning if for any reason the wood insert fails to function correctly.
9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses
The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for your wood insert is from the room
in which it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its
availability is not affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed
concerns, almost all tightly sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide a
small amount of air needed by the insert. The only case in which the wood insert may not
have adequate access to combustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device
(such as a kitchen range exhaust) causes the pressure in the house to become negative
relative to outdoors.
If you do install an air supply through the wall of the house, be aware that its pressure can
be affected during windy weather. If you notice changes in wood insert performance in windy
weather, and in particular if smoke puffs from the insert, you should disconnect the outdoor
air duct from the insert and remove the duct. In some windy conditions, negative pressure
at the duct outside the house wall may draw hot exhaust gases from the insert backwards
through the duct to outdoors. Check the outdoor air duct for soot deposits when the full
system is cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
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Appendix 1: Blower Installation
1. Center the blower on the ash lip and push it against the firebox. Then push it
until it clips.
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Appendix 2: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation
Note: Only remove the knock-out that will be connected to the fresh air intake kit.
Using pliers, remove the rectangular knock-out plate (A) located on
the left or right side of the convection air jacket. Choose the side
that is best for your installation.
Then, install the fresh air kit adapter (B) using
4 screws (C). Secure the flexible pipe (E) (not
included) to the adapter (B) using one of the
adjustable pipe clamps (D). The pipe must be
HVAC type, insulated, and must comply with
ULC S110 and/or UL 181, Class 0 or Class
1. Secure the other end of the pipe to the
outside wall termination (F) using the second
adjustable pipe clamp (D). The outside wall
termination (F) must be installed outside of
the building.
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Annexe 3 : Installation des reteneurs de bûches
1.
2.
3.
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Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate and Decorative Trims
Installation
Note: The illustrations may vary from one model to another, but the method of assembly
remains the same.
Remove the faceplate panels from its box and the faceplate extension secured between the
firebox and the convection air jacket.
Place the faceplate panels with the finished side down on a flat, soft, non-abrasive surface
and follow the installation instructions below;
Hardware bag content:
8 - #10-24" x 1/2" bolts 2 - Corner bracket and screws
8 - Trim retainer 8 - #10-24" hex nuts
Line up the holes of the upper faceplate
panel (A) with the holes of the side panels
(B) and (C). Secure them together using
four (4) bolts (D) and nuts (E) provided (see
DETAIL A).
Partially thread the screws (H) on the trim's
corner bracket (G) then superimpose the
corner brackets (F) and (G) as shown in the
image on the left.
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Insert the superimposed brackets (F) and
(G) with the screws (H) in the groove of
each decorative trim (I), (J) and (K) (see
DETAIL B). Align the corners of the angled
side of each trim, and then tighten the
screws (L) to secure the trims.
Align the trim assembly with the left and
right edge of the faceplate and slowly slide
it down over the faceplate.
Secure the trim to the faceplate by
squeezing the eight trim retainers (L)
between the inner edge of the trim and the
front of the faceplate. As in the image on
the left.
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Then align the holes in the faceplate extension (M) with the holes in each faceplate side
panels and secure both assemblies together using four (4) bolts (D) and nuts (E) provided
(see DETAIL C) .
Center the insert into the fireplace opening.
Align the notch in the faceplate extension with
the bolt (N) welded to the air jacket located (see
DETAIL D) and slide the faceplate assembly
just over the bolt’s head and washer (O). Then
push towards the fireplace.
If necessary, adjust the height of the insert
using the leveling bolts on each side of the
convection air jacket until the faceplate is
properly seated on the floor of the hearth
extension.
Once the faceplate is in place, secure the
assembly by tightening nuts (P) using a 7/16"
(11 mm) open end wrench.
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Appendix 5: Optional Cuttable Faceplate Installation
This 18G steel faceplate is cuttable to the desired shape of the fireplace opening if it contains
irregular edges (e.g.: fieldstones). The use of a template may be useful prior to cutting of the
faceplate.
See the installation manual provided with the faceplate.
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Appendix 6: Optional Fire Screen Installation
Open the door.
Hold the fire screen by the two
handles and bring it close to the
door opening.
Lean the upper part of the fire
screen against the top door
opening making sure to insert the
top fire screen brackets behind the
primary air deflector as in
(DETAIL A).
Lift the fire screen upwards and
push the bottom part towards the
stove then let the fire screen rest
on the bottom of the door opening.
Warning: Never leave the stove unattended while in use with the fire screen.
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Appendix 7: Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle Installation
1. Starting with the rear tube (A), lean and
insert the right end of the secondary air
tube into the rear right channel hole.
Then lift and insert the left end of the
tube into the rear left channel.
2. Align the notch in the left end of the tube
with the key of the left air channel hole.
Using a « Wise grip » hold the tube and
lock it in place by turning the tube as
shown in detail A. Make sure the notch
reaches the end of the key way.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the two tubes
in the back then install the baffle before
installing the two front tubes.
To remove the tubes use the above steps
in reverse order.
Note that secondary air tubes (A) can be replaced without removing the baffle board (B)
and all tubes are identical.
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Appendix 8: Removal instructions
For the purpose of inspecting the insert itself or the fireplace, your insert may need to be
removed. To remove your insert follow these instructions:
• Unscrew the nut secured on the screw (B) holding the faceplate extension (C) to the
insert.
• Remove faceplate (D) by pulling it towards you.
• Remove the blower assembly (E).
• Remove the three screws securing the pipe connector (A).
• Unscrew the levelling bolts (F) located on each side of the insert.
• Move the insert to perform maintenance.
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Appendix 9: Exploded Diagram and Parts List
IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement
parts for your stove, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve
the right to change parts due to technology upgrades or availability. Contact an authorized
dealer to obtain any of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved
parts can result in poor performance and safety hazards.
2
1
3
4
7
9
1
1
1
2
1
5
1
6
1
7
1
8
2
1
1
9
2
0
2
3
2
2
2
4
2
5
2
6
2
7
2
7
3
0
3
4
3
7
3
8
4
0
4
1
4
1
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
1
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
0
4
1
4
2
4
2
4
2
4
3
2
8
1
0
3
2
3
5
5
6
2
9
4
4
3
9
3
6
3
9
8
3
3
1
3
1
4
3
1
4
5
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#
Item
Description
Qty
1
AC01315
RIGID FIRESCREEN
1
2
SE74166
HANDLE 30898 REPLACEMENT KIT
1
3
SE24107-08
DOOR ASSEMBLY
1
4
AC06500
SILICONE AND 5/8" X 8' BLACK DOOR GASKET KIT
1
5
SE70697
REPLACEMENT HANDLE WITH LATCH KIT
1
6
AC09185
DOOR LATCH KIT
1
7
AC07867
1/2" CHROME PLATED COIL HANDLE
1
8
30101
SPRING TENSION PIN 5/32"Ø X 1 1/2"L
1
9
SE55103
GLASS WITH GASKET - 17 1/8"W X 10 3/16"H
1
10
AC06400
3/4" X 6' FLAT BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET
1
11
PL55041
GLASS RETAINER FRAME
2
12
SE53585
GLASS RETAINER KIT WITH SCREWS (12 PER KIT)
1
13
SE74167
DOOR HINGE REPLACEMENT KIT
1
14
SE74169
INSERT TRAP KIT
1
15
30102
1/4'' CAST STEEL AIR CONTROL HANDLE WITH MOUNTING SCREW
1
16
SE74124
ASHTRAY ASSEMBLY
1
17
30507
BLACK TORX SCREW WITH FLAT HEAD TYPE F 1/4-20 X 3/4"
3
18
SE74125
BLOWER ASSEMBLY
1
19
44089
DOUBLE CAGE BLOWER 144 CFM 115V - 60Hz - 1.1A
1
20
44028
CERAMIC THERMODISC F110-20F
1
21
60013
POWER CORD 96" X 18-3 type SJT (50 pcs per carton)
1
22
44087
RHEOSTAT NUT
1
23
44080
RHEOSTAT WITHOUT NUT (MODEL KBMS-13BV)
1
24
PL74125
BLOWER HOUSING
1
25
44085
RHEOSTAT KNOB
1
26
AC01298
5"Ø FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT
1
27
PL53722
RIGHT DECORATIVE PANEL
1
28
30337
SQUARE HEAD SET SCREW 1/2-13 X 1-3/4"
2
29
PL34052
LINER FIXATION BRACKET
1
30
SE45931
ESCAPE 1800 INSERT INSTRUCTION MANUAL KIT
1
31
SE15097
FACEPLATE HARDWARE KIT
1
32
OA10123
BRUSHED NICKEL FACEPLATE TRIMS (29" X 44")
1
32
OA10129
BRUSHED NICKEL LARGE FACEPLATE TRIMS (32" X 50")
1
33
30456
AMS HARDWARE KIT (TAPPED CORNERS AND BACK PLATES)
1
34
AC03375
LARGE FACEPLATE 32" X 50'' WITH NICKEL TRIM KIT
1
34
AC03370
REGULAR FACEPLATE 29'' X 44'' WITH NICKEL TRIM KIT
1
35
SE65505
TOP AIR DEFLECTOR PROTECTOR KIT
1
36
AC01357
32'' X 50'' CUTTABLE FACEPLATE (18 GA)
1
37
21388
VERMICULITE BAFFLE 20" X 12 1/2" X 1 1/4"
1
38
PL65514
SECONDARY AIR TUBE
4
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39
PL65127
FLOORED BRICK RETAINER
2
40
29015
4'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
14
41
29007
3 1/4'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
4
42
29010
4 1/2" X 9" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK
3
43
29004
4'' X 4 1/2'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
1
44
AC05959
METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT - 342 g (12oz) AEROSOL
1
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DROLET LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original retail purchaser and is not transferable. This warranty covers brand new
products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since shipment from factory. Proof of purchase (dated bill of sale),
model name and serial number must be supplied when making any warranty claim to your DROLET dealer.
This warranty applies to normal residential use only. This warranty is void if the unit is used to burn material other than
cordwood (for which the unit is not certified by EPA) and void if not operated according to the owner's manual. Damages caused
by misuse, abuse, improper installation, lack of maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident during transportation, power
failures, downdrafts, venting problems or under-estimated heating area are not covered by this warranty. The recommended
heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature
in the designated area in case of a power failure.
This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage caused by the use of unauthorized
or other than original parts voids this warranty. An authorized qualified technician must perform the installation in accordance with the
instructions supplied with this product and all local and national building codes. Any service call related to an improper installation is not
covered by this warranty.
The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to support the claim. Returned
products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. Transportation fees to ship the product back to the purchaser
will be paid by the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile by an authorized qualified
technician requires the prior approval of the manufacturer. All parts and labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to
the table below.
The manufacturer, at its discretion, may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and investigation of the defect. The
manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect to this warranty by refunding the wholesale price of any
warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer shall, in no event, be responsible for any uncommon, indirect, consequential damages of
any nature, which are in excess of the original purchase price of the product. A one-time replacement limit applies to all parts benefiting
from lifetime coverage. This warranty applies to products purchased after March 1
st
, 2019.
DESCRIPTION
WARRANTY APPLICATION*
PARTS
LABOUR
Combustion chamber (welds only) and cast iron door frame.
Lifetime
3 years
Surrounds, heat shields, ash drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum
extrusions), plating (defective manufacture**), and convector air-mate.
5 years
3 years
Removable stainless steel combustion chamber components, secondary air
tubes**, deflectors, and supports.
5 years
N/A
Glass retainers, handle assembly, and air control mechanism.
3 years
1 year
Carbon steel combustion chamber components, vermiculite baffle**, and C-Cast
baffle**.
2 years
N/A
Standard blower, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and other commands.
1 year
1 year
Optional blower, paint (peeling**), ceramic glass (thermal breakage only**),
ceramic fibre blankets, gaskets, insulation, and other options.
1 year
N/A
Firebricks.
N/A
N/A
All parts replaced under the warranty.
90 days
N/A
*Subject to limitations above. **Picture required.
Labour cost and repair work to the account of the manufacturer are based on a predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the
wholesale price of the replacement part.
Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your DROLET dealer. To accelerate processing of your warranty
claim, make sure to have on hand the following information when calling:
• Your name, address and telephone number;
• Bill of sale and dealer’s name;
• Installation configuration;
• Serial number and model name as indicated on the
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;
• Nature of the defect and any relevant information.
Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain an Authorization Number from your DROLET
dealer. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without authorization will be refused automatically and returned to sender.
Escape 1800-I Insert Installation and Operation Manual
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