Roper RT12VKXKT00 Official Refrigerator

User Manual - Page 14

For RT12VKXKT00.

PDF File Manual, 36 pages, Download pdf file

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Try the solutions suggested here first in order to
possibly avoid the cost of a service call.
Your refrigerator will not operate
The power supply cord is unplugged,
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
A household fuse or circuit breaker has tripped.
Replace the fuse or reset the circuit.
The temperature control is turned to the "OFF"
Refer to the "Setting the Controls" section.
The refrigerator is defrosting.
Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30
minutes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic
defrost cycle.
The lights do not work
The power supply cord is unplugged.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
A light bulb is loose in the socket.
Turn the temperature control to OFR Disconnect the
refrigerator from the electrical supply. Gently remove the
bulb and reinsert. Then reconnect the refrigerator to the
electrical supply and reset the refrigerator control.
A light bulb has burned out.
Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage,
size, and shape. See the "Changing the Light Bulbs"
There is water in the defrost drain pan
The refrigerator is defrosting.
The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip
into the defrost pan.
It is more humid than normal.
Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer
to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid.
The motor seems to run too much
The room temperature is hotter than normal.
Expect the motor to run longer under warm conditions.
At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run
about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions,
expect it to run even more of the time.
A large amount of food has just been added to the
Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It
is normal for the motor to run longer in order to cool the
refrigerator back down. See the "Food Storage Guide"
The doors are opened often.
Expect the motor to run longer when this occurs. In
order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need
out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it
is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is
The controls are not set correctly for the
surrounding conditions.
Refer to the "Setting the Controls" section.
The doors are not closed completely.
Push the doors firmly shut. If they will not shut all the
way, see "The doors will not close completely" later in
this section.
The condenser coils are dirty.
This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work
harder. Clean the condenser coils. Refer to the
"Cleaning Your Refrigerator" section.
NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old
one due to its high efficiency motor.
The refrigerator seems to make too much
The sounds may be normal for your refrigerators.
Refer to the "Understanding Sounds You May Hear"
The ice maker is not producing ice
The freezer temperature is not cold enough to
produce ice.
Wait 24 hours after hook-up for ice production. See the
"Setting the Controls" section.
The ice maker arm is in the "OFF" (arm up) position.
Lower arm to the "ON" (arm down) position. See the "Ice
Maker Operation" section.
The water line shut-off valve to the refrigerator is not
turned on.
Turn on the water valve. See the "Installing the Ice
Maker" sheet in your installation instructions.
An ice cube is jammed in the ejector arm.
Remove the ice from the ejector arm with a plastic
utensil. Refer to the "Ice Maker Operation" section.
The ice maker mold has no water in it or no ice has
been produced.
Check to see if your refrigerator has been connected to
your home water supply and the supply shut-off valve is
turned on. Refer to the "Installing the Ice Maker"sheet in
your installation instructions.
NOTE: If not due to any of the above, there may be a
problem with the water line. Call for service.
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